UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: andy_e on July 04, 2019, 01:09:52 pm
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I've been looking at Lees Bottom. Lees Bottom looks nice, so I'm tempted to go and touch Lees Bottom at the weekend. Does Lees Bottom seep? Is Lees Bottom dry?
Anyone thinking I'm attempting innuendo here will note the lack of apostrophes.
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Yes it seeps, but I don't know how it is at the moment..
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I've heard it can be leaky and if exposed it gets a bit windy.
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Tom Burrows insta showed crushing on mr creosote there yesterday - so guessing it’s fine. Rh side (easier stuff) seems to take longer to dry/deep more.
But I’m no expert on Lees Bottom.
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Went here today, mainly dry but a few holds on middle the big roof were soapy.
First time their for me and ended up following the right wall on the right of the field and getting lost. There’s a rotting horse/cow up there which stank like Lees Bottom. Avoid the right wall and stream at all costs!
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Anyone care to guess how Lees will be on Monday?
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Lower half of most things was condensed on Friday afternoon. Left of the walk was better. Not sure about seepage from the weekend but I wouldn’t travel far
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I'd guess that the current weather will have cleared the condensation, but seepage likely, especially below the main break and on the wide bit right of the fence.
However, the new 7c Sheldon Mango (250m up hill from LB) is seepage proof I think. I can give a proper approach description if anyone's thinking of visiting. It's a good prob, highish (two pads if fine), similar nature and quality to Infinite Suspense and Mint Sauce.
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Cheers Bonjoy, always good to have options so would be keen for approach info! Looked like a good prob from your Insta vid.
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Park at the pay and display 53.232052, -1.746151 (or park as for LB and follow the public footpath until it intersects the main path from the pay and display at the stream).
Follow footpath south out of carpark, crossing a stream after 250m. After a further 150m go left at T junction of paths. Follow this eastward, after 100m a gate on the path leads into Shacklow Wood. Keep going another 100m then drop down left at the first pine tree on the left. The crag is a little further E at 53.228147, -1.745216 , 20m or so N of the path.
I have approached direct from LB which is a much shorter distance, but I wouldn’t recommend as it’s really hard going on steep scree.
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I've never been here so haven't got a handle on conditions - is it likely to be wet at the minute?
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Anyone been in the last few days? Cheers
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I went yesterday. Lees Bottom was kinda dry. Stuff left of wall good, stuff to right was climbable but all felt a little damp, felt like you could pop off a hold at any moment (although the stuff further right seemed better, to be honest I didn't do or try much). Went up to Lees top as well which was completely dry (if you do approach from Lees bottom I went: up steep slope on left of crag, straight up hill to join the path going sideways through the wood, turn left on path and you'll pretty quickly come to the pine tree mentioned by Jonboy in his description, drop down to crag.)
It's been wet overnight here (Hathersage) and pretty damp now, I'd save it for a dryer time - I didn't find it super inspiring which was partly as I was in Pembroke doing amazing climbing at the weekend so it didn't compare well and partly as it all felt a little dank/bit limited with what was in good condition, think on a nice day it would feel a better venue.
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I did jons new problem last night. The top holds will need cleaning after it's rained every time I reckon so bring a brush to tape to a stick.
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Sheldon Mango all dry today. Great problem, lovely pinches, felt tricky for 7C. Harder than Infinite Suspense that's for sure.
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How was Lees Bottom, did you look? And might it be worth a punt tomorrow afternoon despite the rain forecast?
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Everything there was pretty much bone dry today. According to the Strong Dad Squad, it was the driest they'd seen it all summer.
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Nice, thanks Andy. How rain proof is it?
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Pass! I suspect the stuff on the left and middle will be reasonably rainproof, but the stuff on the right might get damp. But I'm guessing you're not going to project the 6B+s!
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You never know. Cheers!
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Sheldon Mango all dry today. Great problem, lovely pinches, felt tricky for 7C. Harder than Infinite Suspense that's for sure.
Me, Dave and Cofe tried this today. Dave did it pretty easily. Did you get the left pinch really wide? There's a thumb catch which makes a difference. We also used slightly different start and foot beta to Jon. How did Jon discover this problem?!
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Hiya. What was the different beta (always interested to hear if I've missed anything sensible)?
I think I found this crag while following a tip off on locations for rare trilobite fossils. I didn't find any trilobites but did find a small crag.
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Instead of starting with incut crimp in right hand and pressing out left, start with it in your left, pull up and guppy the massive flake (that you drop knee into on the crux) with right hand then take a sharp undercut with left hand in fractured rock to come over with your right for the right of the two main pinches. Then same as you to the top, though once we'd got the left hand pinch we were dropping our left foot onto a lower foothold to allow the taller climber to put the right foot behind the flake, before bumping it back up onto an edge for the move to the edge.
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Sheldon Mango all dry today. Great problem, lovely pinches, felt tricky for 7C. Harder than Infinite Suspense that's for sure.
Me, Dave and Cofe tried this today. Dave did it pretty easily. Did you get the left pinch really wide? There's a thumb catch which makes a difference. We also used slightly different start and foot beta to Jon. How did Jon discover this problem?!
I basically used the same beta as Jon except think I used a slightly lower left foot to put in the big drop knee. Not sure if I found the wide thumb on the left pinch, probably just not used to Peak lime :lol:. Really enjoyed the problem though
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Any reports on LB dryness today or tomorrow pre-6pm appreciated! Specifically UTGT and its starting break, which I fear is somewhat vulnerable.
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It was bone dry Tuesday afternoon/early evening if that helps.
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Anyone been over the weekend? If so, how is it looking?
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Dolly went on thurs and it was condensed out. But so was most of Peak lime...
not sure how it’ll be tomorrow - overnight forecast looks a bit humid.
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There's ascents logged on Thursday and Friday so apparently it dried up quickly
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It was mingin Thurs evening, but it was condensation and some stuff was still climbable. With wind and low humidity it’d be fine.
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Yes I can imagine Thursday during the day was good. Griffs was minging Thursday evening so bailed to tor which was mint with a good breeze.
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Has anyone ventured up there since the recent down pours?
It was in perfect condition last Saturday (21st Sept), bone dry throughout, but I'm guessing seepage will have gotten to it by now?
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Griffs was tacky and no wind at 11. So I went to a mint rubicon instead.
Didn’t bother with LB it’s so sheltered
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Cheers tomtom, might be worth a look once it's stopped raining and if there's a decent breeze then.
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Cheers tomtom, might be worth a look once it's stopped raining and if there's a decent breeze then.
Needs to be a northerly breeze iirc. Blackwell was crap today as it was sheltered from the easterly - which was pleasantly whipping through Rubicon. Et the Tor was good.
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Anyone been up in the last few days? I'm guessing it's gopping due to the humidity, but if anyone know's better would be good to hear.
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Most hand holds were climbable yesterday after some brushing. The low feet and some very low hand holds were all wet.
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Ah cheers, sounds like it's worth venturing up there still then. Can't wait for this humidity to bugger off!
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I've not been there this year (its sounded too busy) but went quite a bit last year - and it is the most fickle conditions wise of all the limestone craglets I've visited...
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Just saw a pic on insta with the fence in the background. Jesus people, sort it out! That applies to anyone who goes there. Whether you think you've contributed to its state of repair or not! It's everyones' responsibility to look after the crag and avoid the all too likely access clusterfuck when a bunch if cows wander off into Shacklow Wood.
To spell out the obvious:
Rebuild the wall.
Prop the fence posts back up and straighten the wire.
When I was doing new stuff here in 2018 the new fence post was rock solid. It is now evidently uprooted/broke and half fallen over. plus the wall is in a much worse condition than it was. This is a direct result of climbers.
At some point I will go and do some maintenance. But I've finished climbing here pretty much. Making a dedicated visit to prop up some rocks and wood is not ideal, when loads of people are there on a regular basis anyway and should be doing it as a matter of course.
Can livestock get through the wall/fence? If the answer is anything but a definite 'no' when you leave the crag, then do something about it!
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I'm not familiar with the crag but is it on open access land/is the landowner aware that people are hopping over the wall? If so, is it worth having a whip round/working day to put a stile in? The fence that everyone hops over to get to M o u g ht0n N abb is suffering and I wonder why the local BMC meeting doesn't organise a more permanent solution that the bit of loincloth that's wrapped round the top strand of barbed wire to stop people's danglers getting snagged.
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The bulk of the crag is on access land, the bit over the wall isn't. I queried the national park authority about ownership and having a site visit to discuss access and the wall crossing. I didn't get a reply.
A local climber with dry stone walking skills on the peak lime bouldering group has offer to have a look and do something. Which is great. Stealth repairs are a good option in this case I think.
Still, anyone visiting still needs to do their but in the meantime.
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I’ll have a go at it when I’m next back there if no-one has done anything in the meantime - should be in the next week. I was there yesterday - I’d clocked fence was in a state when I arrived and had intended to do something but ran out of time. Wasn’t too bad the previous week, so relatively recent damage (albeit part of a ongoing battle).
I’ll message the UKC crag moderator and see if they’ll add a comment to the UKC page. I’d guess more people will see that?
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Jeez yeah that's deteriorated quite a bit from when I was last there a couple of weeks ago. Will sort it out next time I go if it hasn't been before.
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Not sure who’s done it but the fence/wall repairs are looking good. Just needs us to stay on top of it.
If anyone is trying Goose Grease/Goose Lee, etc., the LH undercut for the move round the lip is very loose. Didn’t try the move as it looks like it could explode off fairly easily. Not sure on best approach - remove it completely as I think there’s another undercut in its place or try to glue it? Anyone with more experience (of gluing or of the problem) care to give a view? My normal approach would be to do without it, but happy to have a go at gluing if I can source some glue.
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I didn't detect any looseness when I did them on Wednesday. So I think it's changed since then.
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The undercut came out on a guy trying it on Friday, he put it back in and then did the problem ;D It stays in so long as you only pull outwards on it.
Conditions-wise, a bit dank in places, but dryable with a towell/tissues + chalk (+ fan).
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It had gone tonight. Bigger hold in its place. I imagine the crag will just resemble a cairn in a couple of years.
Nice work whoever did the wall and fence. Let’s hope people look after it this time.
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Anyone know what conditions are like up there at the moment? Hoping for a session tomorrow afternoon
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Anyone know if it is dry at the moment? Was very condensed last week- better now?
Thanks. Jon
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I'd be genuinely amazed if it were dry - as it seeps after a while - but could well be wrong. If there's a northerly wind you've a chance I recon..
'kin shite weather..... :(
Peak lime bouldering FB page may know more?
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Thanks TT. Might see if Rubicon is dry then
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Thanks TT. Might see if Rubicon is dry then
Always worth checking the river level:
https://www.gaugemap.co.uk/?fbclid=IwAR0KBa8OZ7ZTAGf0u7iUtXhYKUI4bSH9TImzimac8BYNQfvzz3GrHERdlhE#!Map/Summary/131/137
Which surprisingly is fairly low. Let me know how it is!
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Of interest to someone keen to get out despite the foul weather might be that Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale was looking very much permadry today. Sheep Eggs was soaking.
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Thanks both. Have gone with board option for today. Will check out sheep shifter sometime.
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Anyone know if far from the maddening crowd is dry?
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Anyone know if far from the maddening crowd is dry?
No idea - but the name is probably now ironic :D
(sorry Haydn - deeply unhelpful answer - though stuff on the left is far more resilient than anything right of the wall/fence)
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Anyone know if far from the maddening crowd is dry?
I was there on Monday and everything right of the fence seemed unclimbable (left side all bone, including the Creosote jug); I didn't actually look at FFTMC but the back wall was running and the undercut and pocket on Under the Greenwood Tree were pretty unusable. Could be much better after the warm weather we've had in the last couple of days though.
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Went today, back wall still wet, dripping in places. Not a lot of change from Droyd’s visit on Monday, left of wall all good but main section of the roof still wet from Chiggers slot to back wall.
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Thanks
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Drying up nicely, Chiggers all good today.
Any links to vids for the A6 probs on the left? Having to sneak short sessions in while keeping my two littluns occupied for the foreseeable so not much scope for working out beta!