UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Monolith on February 23, 2008, 04:36:27 pm
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Two tough Merseyside repeats in a week for honorary scouser Mick Adams who today sent the Breck's Haston Dyno in an impressive ground-up fashion.
Said to have been climbed by Stevie Haston in the Merseyside glory days, the dyno had attracted only mild interest until now. After a couple of test falls from the dyno position, Mike was seriously psyched to commit to what he later described as "a font 7b dyno in the sky".
Apologies for the woeful video quality as it was taken on my camera phone (I knew this would happen the one time my video camera and tripod weren't present). Strong potential exists for a future Merseyside short, for which Mike has been asked to climb the line again; this time on good quality film stock.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDeT27zShaM
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Awesome effort, and all the more so for doing it ground up!
Looks well gripping, even the dismount.
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Si, the facial expression looking down as he was helicoptering up there on a hold in unknown condition was one I'll never forget. It was one that said instantly to me, 'it's in the hands of the gods'. Thankfully, the helicoptering didn't follow through on it's trajectory or else we'd probably be in Arrowe Park A&E now.
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Looks well gripping, even the dismount.
you're not wrong.
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Nice. How hard is the whole thing? Is it not possible to top out? Wouldn't fancy that jump much :lol:
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Was mooted at V10 when done. A strange problem historically from what I can gather..
It's not possible to topout sadly. Be nice if it did eh.
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I reckon it may top with a further font 7c+ dyno to the top of the concrete past a wall of blankness? Certain paralysis upon failing!
Great effort Mike, I am inspired once more to visit the Breck.
p.s. Good job Duncan with the cleaning effort he has made on this wall as well as Bluebell wall, it looked in the best nick ever this week :bow:
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jesus titty fucking christ.
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Again, :great:
What a beast. If he does trad then get him on The Famous Alto Sax Break. If/when someone does that its gonna be NAILS.
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That is rather high to be throwing one on. You really wouldn't want an uncontrolled landing from up there. :o
Effort.
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jesus titty fucking christ.
My thoughts exactly, good effort.
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Not that swarms of you will be rushing to the Breck, but Mick's now claiming to have all the symptoms of whiplash. Take a top-roping kit if you happen to find yourself catapulted at random to said venue.
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Take a top-roping kit if you happen to find yourself catapulted at random to said venue.
Anymore of that talk and you're quadruple puntered!
Take massive mates: wideboy 6 footers and 12 mats w/ a mondo atop the lot. Fuck top-roping's botty.
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Perhaps with 12 mats it's a more attractive prospect, but if you happened to be in the vicinity with a skinny old pod mat or two, I think not.
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hi guys, stevie here, just checked the vid out. A couple of things, great that there is a bit of interest in ancient history, it was a great problem, but this isnt it. The break was used for the left hand (probably as in film) you unwieghted and used a tiny( the left was small, half pad)nick for two fingers of the right hand, and it cut, built your feet onto the rightfoot hold (as in film) and launched.There are a few things to support my excellent memory, one I had witnesses, also the second ascentionist (who lived locally and tried over a period of two years) also had a witness, the sequence was as I said. As to the grade of this section of the overhanging wall( remember we used to grade bits not whole problems, grading large sections of rock is a bastard practice and best left to the french), the grade was 7a English. the move was similar to halie bob at font 8a or 7c+. If you need further info, a certain Jerry moffat failed on this section, now then thee, Jerry was not wont to fail on poxy V7 or 7bs, so, my, yes it was hard. How hard? Probably what I said. It is a common practice nowadays to disrespect the good days sometimes had by talented old fogeys, and you know for about two months I was great and and in great form , it of course evaporated like many things at the end of the seventies. Let me mention just a few people from that decade and the begining of the next,Tim Freeman( lighter than helium); phil davidson(never saw a better climber till I moved to France), Jerry(cunning, persistent never stopped learning), Cubby(underrated), and you know there were others nearly as good or who I didnt know about or who only blossomed for a short time. I am very upset (I was going to say kinda upset) that people think I dont know what V7 or V10 is, jesus people like me(among others) invented those grades in britain. I hope this post dosent come across as too agressive or arrogant, it is not my intention.Strangely enough I had harder moves than the overhanging wall in London but I thought of them as triffles. I was more interested in the future of ice climbing and alpinism. Bouldering is a small thing by its very nature, and I have talked too long about it, and I will from time to time as bouldering is also a reasonable activity for people to lazy to climb. Yours Stevie.
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Bump.
Stevie, you'll have to forgive my reportage on this one. Finding out any info on this was hard and as I'm sure you're aware, the Breck isn't exactly in it's heyday. I grew up in Wirral and lived there until fairly recently and as such, made the most of what was on my doorstep.
I suppose in light of what Mike did, it is still an impressive bit of climbing, and I understand the likely eliminate nature of the move on the line that you did. As you say, the obvious difficulty of the move in itself is to be respected and is independent of the problem I have reported here.
Thanks very much for stepping forward on this and thanks also for the in-depth beta.
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Stevie nice clearing up of ambiguities over the line.
Just one small point, I don't think anyone has (or indeed would) suggest that you mis-graded the problem, so I don't think you need to be very (or even kinda) upset about it.
Anyway it's nice that you came to talk to us lowly lazy boulderers (an accusation that I'm kinda upset (I was going to say very upset) about....
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I turned a blind eye to deluded grandeur in this instance ;)
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Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at ;)
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Well thats what I'm doing here....
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cheers Monolith (I,d prefer a real name). Other info for you it was pegged by Al Rouse(similar to me, good nerdy boulderer, more concered with slightly bigger things, killed him in the end ergo stick to bouldering) and the guys from the wirral were the ones I hung out with for years, very good sense of humour, still my mates 30 years later.
Not cheers Houdini (I,d prefer a real name and in your case an adress). I dont excel anymore but at least I did once or twice. You need an enema, perhaps taking orally, I have emergency first aid certificate and will volunteer for the job if you are anywhere near me. I am off swimming for three weeks so wont be able to reply thank god. not at your service Stevie.
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Oh you're not that far away Stevie . . . :whistle: Hope you're good at running, pops. :lol:
(Mmmm . . . Really digging this enema thing, cheers for the tip.)
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Reputations aside if bouldering is such a "small thing" which is only "a reasonable activity for those too lazy to climb" then why are you getting "very upset" over a 30 year old eliminate problem. Nobody's slagged you off, nobody's slagged the problem off and certainly nobody's attempted to belittle the acievements of you or any of the other legendary climbers you mention. These are names that (along with yours) are mentioned with nothing but admiration by most climbers - particularly boulderers who tend to understand climbing achievements better than the average.
Have a read through the pages of this forum and generally all you will see is appreciation for real achievement in whatever facet of climbing and from whatever period. You say disrespect for the old skool is "common practice". I say bullshit.
Respect for what you did achieve Stevie (massive respect) but coming on here under the guise of clearing up an issue and instead bemoaning an ill perceived lack of respect for the good old days smacks of bitterness. When you then decide to write bouldering off as being for those who don't do proper climbing it sounds small minded and blinkered to the point of being a UKC post.
On a lighter note, if you really did introduce V grades to this country then my opinion of you is forever tarnished. A "bastard practice" if ever there was one! ;)
Best wishes - A lazy boulderer using his real name.
Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at ;)
I have no idea what you are talking about Houdini. :-[
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(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/houdini2/bb-61-8505379.jpg)
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lets get back to the point of this thread! What Mick did was a hard piece of climbing ( wasnt there myself but have friends that where there ). Stevie your point has been noted and nothing has or will be taken away from your achievement!!
Lets stop the bitchin about different styles of climbing. :wall: For me ice climbing is a stupid concept but i still have respect for the people that do it!!! Steve that was a bit petty saying bouldering is for lazy people, one of the main things in bouldering is making moves at our own limit. How that can be seen as lazy is beyond me!
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I'm really fucking lazy and I boulder. What's inherently wrong with being lazy? ;)
From my understanding of Merseyside sandstone climbing 'back in the day', I'm not surprised the move let alone the problem was an eliminate one.
Ice climbing bores me to shit but I won't attempt to belittle it (like I sort of have just done).
Letting your foolish bouldering comment slip away Stevie,
Yours,
Tom.
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Ice climbing bores me to shit but I won't attempt to belittle it (like I sort of have just done).
Depends what sort you are referring to....
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I feel that it is important for me to publicly acknowledge that I boulder not only because I am too lazy to climb, but also because I am too scared.
Afraid and lazy
Rob
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someone actually bought me the dougal haston book (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dougal-Haston-Philosophy-Risk/dp/184195215X) for my birthday, so hopefully there'll be some details about this problem therein. I'll keep you all posted.
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what i'm tryin to say is that drivin to the crag in a hot boxed state ( mono will relate to me here ) is a total different thing to bein lazy!
Bouldering is not lazy!! Just peoples attitudes to it!!
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I can't believe Stevie Haston name checks Monolith and Houdini and totally blanks me.
He's right on my shit list now...
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All we need is 20 strong men and me (& possibly a man w/ a tazer gun and bullwhip) - we'd kick the crap out of him ;)
PS Meatball - Like me, Stevie gets driven to the crag.
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sorry Houdini, i hot box and drive myself 8)
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I personally find myself a little bit disappointed and confused after Steve's comments.
I personally have a massive respect for the climbers who have gone before me. It was because of my love of walking in the footsteps of climbing legends that i even interested in climbing this line. I was really pleased to find the line, with pads could be climb ground up as a highball as a really good boulder problem. Good moves and history always make for a classic problem. The fact that it now appears from Steve's Comments that its eliminate with you being forced to using a small pocket higher up than i had my right hand. 6m or so of the ground.
This leaves me with some questions about the History of this line that i hope someone who knows, As Steve is away swimming, can answer.
1. First of all was the Haston Dyno first climbed as an eliminate or not? Does Steve feel he climb this a different way and this was harder than he saw me do it? Or did he do a deliberate eliminate on an established line
2. If it was done as an eliminate on an original line what was the proposed grade of the "pure line" that went up this fantastic piece of wall. In the old guide book there is line going up here called Philly Winks it is graded Fr8a with a British 7a move, was this it? After Reading the info on the Breck Wiki site the Haston Dyno is described as exactly the same line:
"Steve Haston visited the Breck in 1979/80 and upped the ante with a legendary dyno problem that is still reckoned to be around the Brit 7a mark (probably Font 7c+/V10). The legendary dyno in question is not an eliminate. It starts at the alcove ("fireplace") in the centre of the overhanging wall and moves up to two obvious flat holds in the diagonal break before flying direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot This was first done as a top rope problem by Haston in 1979 or 1980 in a single session and repeated shortly afterwards by Keith Jones. Mike Collins also made some progress on the problem using an intermediate hold for the left hand but it is not known if he ever completed it using this method." - "the dyno remained the obvious direct challenge and was "harder than V10s at Hueco" according to Haston".
Is this info wrong? As it seems to suggest someone having a different sequence on a eliminate dyno and making progress.
3. Of the people who have climb this line eliminate or not what grades were suggested. The move i made at the top felt hard and i personally was not questioning it being a 7a move. (The 7b quote was a throw away comment made in a cafe). The only problem i have done that felt similar is Turbo Clinex a highball 8a dyno in Spain which is not as high but does have the same feel. But I may just be totally out as i often am.
4. when Steve gave the grade was given for this does it take into account all of the climbing up to the dyno. This is not hard compared with the jump but it defiantly adds some pump. Or was it just for the jump.
I am personally a bit disappointed because if this line turns out to be an eliminate top rope problem then the line loses something. As the pure line what ever that is trumps the high of the deck eliminate. The pure line then sadly loses some of its historical appeal. My personal feelings then are an eliminate whilst impressive as a move someone made back in the late 70's, becomes just a move someone did for the challenge alone and something i personally would not be that bothered about repeating.
I hope someone who has either talked to Steve or actually has first had experience from back then can clarify these issues. As someone who loves the mersyside climbing scene i feel it would be good to get all this clarified especially before the proposed release of a new guide covering the area.
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What a lovely post Dolph.
Welcome. (5 wads in 2 posts is unheard of.) You should speak up more often. It's normal for soft voices like yours to be drowned-out by those w/ bigger lungs . . .
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I agree- Dolph, you make valid points.
Myself, I feel a little disappointed by people this year. Initially the Dave Buchanan stuff, now Stevie Haston. Whilst we can not guarantee these people are who they say they are, we have to assume so. And working on this assumption, these 2 have lowered my opinions of them. Not that that matters to them, but egos seem to require a massage.
Dolph, well done for your efforts, based on the info you had. :thumbsup:
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(5 wads in 2 posts is unheard of.)
Unless you have a killer cheesecake recipe, in which case 6 in 1 is not unheard of... :whistle:
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Sadly Dolph, I doubt there will be much clarity on exactly who did what when (this isn't to say I don't beleive what Stevie said in his post) - talking to a very longtime Merseyside local recently it was clear much activity here (including this line) has always been shrouded in mystery, as befits an area dominated by local climbers forced to find playful ways of using limited local resources and with 'history' (and lines) being passed down through word of mouth rather than definitive descriptions. Personally, for the guide I'd record the 'pure' line with an historical note on Stevie's undoubtedly pioneering eliminate.
BTW, I think everyone should cool the heels re: Stevie, he always was a provocative, combatative fellow (sometimes for the good, sometimes not)and will no doubt be pissing himself at how het up we've got about his intervention.
Oh, and props on this and Monoblock.
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I think Stevie is the only one who appears to be het up at all. Everyone else appears to be displaying a genuine curiosity and interest in establishing the facts coupled with a healthy dose of humour. Apart from Houdini, but his default setting appears to be het anyway so I wouldn't read to much into it....
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Nah you're wrong about that Nik. But as a Llanber' local (and you is ain't) I'm privvy to a great deal more accurate info than you.
(Of course, this is not internet material.) You appear to have a great ability to see the worst in people, bit like me really...
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Apart from Houdini,
Don't worry 'bout Houd, he's a cunt. :lol:
Seriously though, the Haston Dyno is always spoken of in hushed tones, with nothing but respect. It's just one of those old skool problems that grabs the attention. It's never been well documented, and someone repeated it in good faith. And then someone throws it back in their face with a dose of the salts. A bit unnecessary I think- we should applaud people for taking an interest in these old problems. Yeah, correct inaccuracies and clear things up for posterity. But don't get arsey, then go on the defensive that your grade is under attack. It isn't, but the full facts have never been clear.
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cunt.
Eh . . . Wah . . . 8)
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Personally i don't care about the grade as much as a care about the historical accuracies
Sadly Dolph, I doubt there will be much clarity on exactly who did what when (this isn't to say I don't believe what Stevie said in his post) - talking to a very longtime Merseyside local recently it was clear much activity here (including this line) has always been shrouded in mystery, as befits an area dominated by local climbers forced to find playful ways of using limited local resources and with 'history' (and lines) being passed down through word of mouth rather than definitive descriptions.
This is all good but is doesn't clear up if the non eliminate line is any different to the Steves proposed eliminate. Is there a difference in grade. Hence there would be no need for a foot note and it could stay as a pure non eliminate problem. Do you know Andy if anyone who has done this line as a non eliminate has commented on the grade?
The ironic thing in all this is that when i was up there i saw the two finger hold Steve mentions and thought about going to it as it would have brought me nearer to the slot. But decided against it as i thought it being a dyno, would have been done from the slots as was suggested.
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The quote you took from the Cheshire sandstone guide pretty much sums it all up eh Dolph? Going from the local bible, you've climbed what's printed as the haston dyno, only to be told by the ascentionist that's not the problem.
Confusing indeed.
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Whilst we can not guarantee these people are who they say they are, we have to assume so.
It's Mick Ryan in disguise! :o
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Mike, if you want to round up (or even continue, not sure if your in the pool to stay or just visiting) your Merseyside hardcore routes run and dont mind pushing the boat out a bit go and do The Famous Alto Sax Break with a side runner or three in Dateline. Its never been lead and is supposed to be the hardest of the big routes at Pex.
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Mike, not sure if your in the pool to stay or just visiting
He used to live here Will but even though he lives much closer to many "quality" crags, he can't seem to stay away from the wonderful world of Pex, Frodsham and latterly, the Breck. Strange but true. ;)
Personally I'm also utterly in love with Merseyside climbing at the moment and even drove back from Earl Crag on Sunday to climb at Pex instead. Also strange but true.
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like his name sake dougal.stevie wasn't always a super hero.
think a long the lines of salt and a eliminate wall at the snore.
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Mike, I know my post didn't clear much up, but in a way that's the point - for even the most long-term of locals, like Pete, this line has always been very uncertain. At least we now know what Stevie did now, even if not what others did. Anyway, it sounds like his version is very little different to the pure, non-eliminate one you did, not enough to be significant - just as for me the differences between how Joe and everyone else have done Monoblock is insignificant, using a different sequence doesn't make for different routes. Lots of routes can be climbed using different sequences.
Anyway, this is from another lover of Merseyside climbing, roll on the Helsby season!
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Sorry this is all off topic
Nah you're wrong about that Nik. But as a Llanber' local (and you is ain't) I'm privvy to a great deal more accurate info than you.
I know I'm not a Llanber' local, but isn't it in Wales? How would that make you privvy to accurate information about a problem in Merseyside? Or is my geography weaker than I first imagined.
(Of course, this is not internet material.) You appear to have a great ability to see the worst in people, bit like me really...
Ooooooo cloaks and daggers, how exciting...
You think I was being critical? Not at all. Merely pointing out that on this forum you are an especially "high energy" poster who argues his corner with a certain passion. I'm afraid I didn't use a smiley to convey the fact that I was being tongue in check when stating that het is your default setting. I thought it was obvious, and I'm not a huge fan of smileys anyway. I'll know for next time.
I don't think I see the worst in people. What I do see is what is put on display by a poster, and if I have no other frame of reference for that person then I can only assess them based on their postings. Innacurate? Almost certainly.
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From the guide:
Philli Winks 7a (F8a)
Shoddy holds lead up to a ledge from which a
powerful slap off a flake gains a diagonal line of
crimps leading to the top
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the differences between how Joe and everyone else have done Monoblock is insignificant, using a different sequence doesn't make for different routes. Lots of routes can be climbed using different sequences.
Absolutely Andy. If we don't take this approach we'll end up with a ludicrous level of prescription in climbing (other than with defined contrived eliminates of course). Body morphology and climbing style always produce different sequences, and that's part of the rich variety in climbing (just as bouldering and ice climbing are part of the rich variety ;) ) that also enables us to argue for hours about the grades and number of stars alloted.
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hello Stevie here, had a great time swiming and bouldering for three weeks feel fit enough to help again. First I apologize for causing offence, dont know how I did maybe youll agree this time around.Dear Dolpf , you sound like you love your game. So for you Dolp, I read your thing, I,ll try my best dont take offence. The way I went up that wall was the best way I could work out, I think it was the easiest, I didnot deliberatly eliminate holds, you were right the lower wall takes a bit out of you. You maybe stronger than me too use the right hand in the break or the hold might be different, who knows. I might go back to the breck and check it out for you and me, but whoes to say if my memory will serve. Chipper Jones was six foot (second ascent) breck mike a fabulous boulderer and climber I think was trying it the original way but couldnt do it, dont know why as he had Font 8a ability. The top wall was very complex but more navigation than raw power. Hope to meet you Dolp one day.
I feel a bit sick about this little wall as its been a bit like dead albatrose around my head for thirty years. I should have mentioned some other people like Jerry Peel , the great Hank, cris the horse Gore and criss hamper. contary to what you said Jasper I was only trying to help, and god knows how you know I am bitter, cos I,m not. I,m am sorry that my remark about bouldering is a good thing to do when too lazy to climb was taken wrongly. I am lazy, too. Yor were wrong Jasper also about not being insulted , I was. Its not a font 7b wall as Dolp has made clear, its 7c+ 8a. I did take this badly, maybe you would have too. I have done many V10s in america and this wall was always abit harder than them.I have also come across many people who think there was no bouldering done before recent times, and who have insulted people who went befor. Think about the boots we had and other stuff;;;;
I hope I have helped, and yes even I agree that ice climbing is stupid, some of it is beyond fantastic but yes most of it is not worth kitting up for. Bouldering is siege climbing of small stones, some are jems but most are base metal, now some are base plastic. I was not going to reply but Dolphs ernestness was inescapable, I guess I was once Dolp or something like you all. Please take this all how it is meant, if you see me in wales next month please aproach me and talk to me(mines a double), if your name is Houdini on there hand... Yours Stevie
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Fair Play to you Steve!!!
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"Steve Haston visited the Breck in 1979/80 and upped the ante with a legendary dyno problem that is still reckoned to be around the Brit 7a mark (probably Font 7c+/V10). The legendary dyno in question is not an eliminate. It starts at the alcove ("fireplace") in the centre of the overhanging wall and moves up to two obvious flat holds in the diagonal break before flying direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot This was first done as a top rope problem by Haston in 1979 or 1980 in a single session and repeated shortly afterwards by Keith Jones. Mike Collins also made some progress on the problem using an intermediate hold for the left hand but it is not known if he ever completed it using this method." - "the dyno remained the obvious direct challenge and was "harder than V10s at Hueco" according to Haston".
I wrote that after speaking to friends who were there (every night of the week, some of them) at the time. I spent last week in Fontainebleau with some of the same friends, one of whom -- Alan Mc Sherry or "Yag" as he is sometimes known -- told me he had also repeated the Haston Dyno. He top roped it first, then soloed it. No mats.
Nice to see the history being teased out. Shame about the negativity.
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Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at ;)
I've just caught up with all this. What the fuck kind of stupid arse comment is that???
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Nice one TC - you keep those youths on their choker chains old timer! ;D
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Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at
I've just caught up with all this. What the fuck kind of stupid arse comment is that???
Its a funny one, yes? Very much in the vein of boulderers are lazy, old timers are bitter, ect ect...
On the subject of hard, old, dyno problems anyone know of anyone whose done no swing allowed at hylldrem, totally eliminate dyno though it is, only times Ive tried, or seen it tried you end up with nailing yourself into the bulge. Obviously average session at hylldrem you would fail a drug test and its raining but probably the first V11 in wales?
Plus there is every chance that a 7b+ could feel harder than Hueco V10s, I regularly find 7b+ that feel harder than say, oh some Swiss 7c+ problems. This proves nothing... apart from grading needing another 50 years of cheap flights to be anything like accurate around the world, ah, oh well thats not going to happen.
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Plus there is every chance that a 7b+ could feel harder than Hueco V10s, I regularly find 7b+ that feel harder than say, oh some Swiss 7c+ problems. This proves nothing... apart from grading needing another 50 years of cheap flights to be anything like accurate around the world, ah, oh well thats not going to happen.
I read that as "another 50 years of cheap fights" at first. It still made sense in the context of this thread.
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Tsk! I was hoping tc's comment would remain the last post of the thread, seeing as he answered his own question n'all.
Meta-horseshit, if you will. ;D
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Thank fuck this thread has settled to UKB's usual standard of measured debate. It was all looking a bit uk cock for awhile there.
At least this thread has inspired me to break my Breck cherry; pathetic I know, given that I am nailed to Mersey sandstone, and if Breck Mike is still bouldering in the area and reading this thread it would be brill to see you again .
Pex is the definition of wall climbing. Call anything on the dateline wall bouldering and you were climbing at pex in the '80's. Hmmm ok off topic now. And has anyone soloed "Black Pimp" yet?
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ummm... so where does it go then? ;)
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Just spent five wonderful hot days on Merseyside sandstone. Here's a Haston Dyno history update:
It was later soloed (no mats) by Alan "Yag" Mc Sherry, who held the title of "Boss of the Breck" in the 1990s.
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That was lazy of me. Actually, after extensive field research and local consultation the history on this currently reads thus:
Steve Haston visited the Breck in 1979/80 and upped the ante with a legendary dyno that is still reckoned to be at least Font 7c+/V10). The legendary dyno in question is not an eliminate. It starts to the right of the alcove ("fireplace") in the centre of the overhanging wall and moves up to two obvious flat holds in the diagonal break. Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V8) but Haston's original method used a "proto nick" for the right hand to assist take-off. This was first done as a top rope problem by Haston in 1980 in a single session and repeated shortly afterwards by Keith Jones. Mike Collins also made some progress on the problem using an intermediate hold for the left hand but it is not known if he ever completed it using this method. The V8 version was later top roped and then soloed (no mats!) by Alan ("Yag") Mc Sherry in the early 1990s and then in 2008 by Mick Adams, who adopted a less heart-stopping and more modern highball-with-pads approach
Also, my car mat now smells of dog shit, which Breck regulars will be able to sympathise with, I feel sure. It makes the hot drive back up the M6 to the Bowderstone very unpleasant
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Jesus christ. Those boys had bollocks!! I can't se how it was topped out but perhaps that wall has deteriorated a lot now. In any case, I don't envy them doing that! Glad to hear you were around tc. Did you clock a few glorius laps of Bluebell Wall for ol times sake?
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A few glorious laps would have been...well, glorious. My all time best was four with a weight belt. This time, after several years absence, it took me a session to piece the moves together again. That fucker might well have been hard V5 when it was first done in 1968/9 but it's way harder than that now. V7 6b/c is my estimate. To my knowledge it has never been flashed. Even Mr Moffat and Mr Glowacz failed to achieve that, despite the vigorous assistance of a team of locals who pointed out the sequence and the hidden footholds. Slackers, eh?
Anyway, as I mentioned elsewhere, get down to the Breck now. It's had a battering from a team of ancient Breckmasters and lots of the classics are now nice and clean and newly chalked up.
Pex and Frodsham were fun, too.
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What happened to the video of Mick Adams?
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Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V8)
Hang on, how come the new method is only V8? Dolph said earlier in this thread:
(The 7b quote was a throw away comment made in a cafe). The only problem i have done that felt similar is Turbo Clinex a highball 8a dyno in Spain which is not as high but does have the same feel.
Sounds like more than V8 to me. Perhaps I'm getting mixed up? Anyway, keep up the good work TC, the history of these older problems is interesting.
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Sorry, that was a previous draft I did for the Breck wiki. It should read:
Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V10), while Haston's original method used a "proto nick" for the right hand to assist take-off.
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Even Mr Moffat and Mr Glowacz failed to achieve that
Jerry I can understand going to the Breck as the man lived off limestone dust for a decade but Glowacz? How do you explain that one?
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It's a good story. I'll tell you sometime when I see you at the Breck. You'd be surprised at the people who have bouldered there over the years.
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and the vid :shrug:
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Video of Mick is still on youtube. Tc, drop us a pm in advance if you can and I'll see you there.