UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: miso soup on April 19, 2014, 10:39:00 pm

Title: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: miso soup on April 19, 2014, 10:39:00 pm: I've just been searching around trying to find out what the first ever 7C+ was, and failed. I kind of expected to find a list of all the firsts of each grade but didn't. Do people know this information? Or is it like the oldest pub in Glasgow, everyone thinks theirs is the one but no-one can agree on the timeline? It would be cool to have a list on here for reference. Obviously it's going to be a fluid thing to some extent with downgrading and holds breaking and what-not but I would think it's fairly solid throughout most of the grade range now. Everyone knows Marie Rose was the first 6A, beyond that I have no knowledge apart from Radja being the first 8B+? But does it get 8B now? Name of first ascensionist and date would be good too I suppose. Radja was Fred Nicole, who I think was responsible for most of the first 8s?
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: ferret on April 19, 2014, 11:04:45 pm: Quote
Fred Nicole, who I think was responsible for most of the first 8s?

Jim Holloway:
Trice V11/12 1975
Meathook V12? 1975
Slapshot V? still unrepeated? 1977
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: miso soup on April 19, 2014, 11:17:23 pm: Interesting. Location would be good too. Marie Rose is in Fontainebleau, Radja is in Switzerland.
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: r-man on April 20, 2014, 01:36:37 am: Your google skills are lacking! The list is on the ukb wiki...

World firsts
http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/World_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/World_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade)

Uk firsts
http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/UK_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/UK_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade)

I have updated them over the years, always interested if someone can come up with any new info...
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: miso soup on April 20, 2014, 06:05:53 pm: Epic search fail, I did search on here too.

Thanks R-Man, really good to know that's there.
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: r-man on April 20, 2014, 06:28:06 pm: But does anyone know what that Yorkshire crack problem is?

Quote
? - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: r-man on April 20, 2014, 06:51:42 pm: And when did Andy Brown do Andy Brown's Wall at Stanage?
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: Teaboy on April 20, 2014, 10:37:57 pm: There are two Andy Browns, one who boulders around Yorkshore in the 80's and another who boulders in Yorkshire in the late 90s early 2000s. The Andy Brown Wall in Stangae is a product of the latter
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: r-man on April 21, 2014, 12:06:53 am: Cheers, thought it probably was but I wasn't sure.
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2014, 08:49:48 am: Quote from: r-man on April 20, 2014, 06:28:06 pm
But does anyone know what that Yorkshire crack problem is?

Quote
? - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895

I seem to remember a thread on UKC about it once. It's in the area around the Egg and stuff, possibly this?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=173607 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=173607)
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: webbo on April 21, 2014, 06:21:33 pm: No it's Victorian climb HVS5a 6 metres and it's in the Victorian climb area most of the stuff round it are boulder problems
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: SEDur on April 22, 2014, 05:36:11 pm: Does the list of world firsts needs to be updated, considering Gioia seems to be considered a legit 8c+ and all the other 8c+s seem to have been contested/unconfirmed for grade..?
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: r-man on April 22, 2014, 06:17:34 pm: I don't think we're there yet. Both Core and Hukkataivel said 8C for Gioia. Only Ondra suggested 8C+.

Quote from: webbo on April 21, 2014, 06:21:33 pm
No it's Victorian climb HVS5a 6 metres and it's in the Victorian climb area most of the stuff round it are boulder problems

Looking at ukc it seems all ascents are solo, so probably done with pads these days? I'll leave it in unless anyone has other suggestions.
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: webbo on April 22, 2014, 08:33:07 pm: According to Yorkshire grit guide there is a photo dated 1895 showing an unknown climber soloing it.
Title: Re: First of grades (bouldering history)
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2014, 11:05:15 am: I think that's where the reference comes from. It's in the back of the old (Millenium version ) brick.