UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: tim palmer on November 20, 2017, 02:57:34 pm
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I have fractured my talus in the (ankle) joint, I can weight bear but told not to do so because a fragment of bone within the joint may damage the cartilage. I am awaiting scan results and a decision on whether the orthopaedic types want to operate so I am fingerboarding and doing core exercises. Is there anything else people would recommend?
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get some BM crimps and challenge Dai Koyamada to a weight off (or should that be weight on...)
https://www.instagram.com/p/BWRxNLylH3l/?taken-by=dai_koyamada
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How's your flexibility? You could throw in some floor-based stretches/yoga, and more specific shoulder mobility stuff?
Weighted pull-ups also perhaps?
Good luck with it
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get some BM crimps and challenge Dai Koyamada to a weight off (or should that be weight on...)
https://www.instagram.com/p/BWRxNLylH3l/?taken-by=dai_koyamada
Pfft on the 8mm crimps, what a weakling!
How's your flexibility? You could throw in some floor-based stretches/yoga, and more specific shoulder mobility stuff?
Weighted pull-ups also perhaps?
Good luck with it
I would love to stretch, can't really stretch anything in my left lower limb as it is supposed to be immobile. How do you improve shoulder mobility and is that a good thing to have?
I usually add weight when fingerboard but going to build it up
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Just a word of advice on cartilage damage in the ankle. I have damaged cartilage in my ankle on the talar dome. After about a year of consistent mild pain and walking with a slight limp I was told that if it hasn't got better on its own its probably not going to. However now about two years down the line there is virtually never any pain whatsoever, the range of motion is not as good as it used to be though. I'm pretty glad that I avoided surgery in the end.
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Yeah, I am very weary of the surgeon's desire to operate
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I smashed my talus to pieces about 15 years ago. It definitely required surgery, but luckily I avoided having to have it all fused and instead a really brilliant surgeon pinned it back together again. There was a fragment of bone left in the heel pad - to remove it risked damaging the heel pad which would’ve potentially made walking really painful.
However, the surgery took ages to heal. I was on crutches for about 4 months I think, and in that time my lower leg muscles completely withered away. It also needed lots of physio to get flexibility back.
I didn’t have much choice, but if you can avoid having your foot carved open I’m sure your recovery will be a lot less traumatic.
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Yeah I was lucky/ unlucky, just a little fracture on the lateral aspect of the talus, I think the options are arthroscopic fiddling or watchful waiting
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When I fractured my calcanium I quickly got quite confident on the campus board landing on one foot (I had a pot on), then I started doing one legged low level traversing and circuits with lots of flagging.
That said if you've only just done it I'd rest and let your body heal. My wife fractured her talus very badly - not good.
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How's your flexibility? You could throw in some floor-based stretches/yoga, and more specific shoulder mobility stuff?
Weighted pull-ups also perhaps?
Good luck with it
I would love to stretch, can't really stretch anything in my left lower limb as it is supposed to be immobile. How do you improve shoulder mobility and is that a good thing to have?
I usually add weight when fingerboard but going to build it up
Improving shoulder mobility will free up the joints full range of motion and maintain strength through the full range of motion.
More flexibility in the joint + less stiffness + injury prevention = Overall stronger shoulders?