UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Fj on March 10, 2008, 09:43:23 am
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I have a couple of attempts at this ever time I visit Froggatt and after 5 years it still beats me.
Start LH pinch, RH small crimp inside cave. Clamp feet on block and pull up for RH sidepull/guppy.
LF toe hook, RF heel on ramp in cave. LH to crimp, LF to heel on pinch, RH to higher sidepull/guppy and realise that once again you cant move from this position and fall off.
Am I doing something wrong or is it just the cakes that are defeating me?
cheers
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When right hand is on the big triangular sloper, I think i had a left toe on instead of a heel, rocked over to reach the slopey crimp, but went to the slightly poorer bit so that I could match into the best bit of it with my right hand then reach high into the crack with my left.
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I have a couple of attempts at this ever time I visit Froggatt and after 5 years it still beats me.
Start LH pinch, RH small crimp inside cave. Clamp feet on block and pull up for RH sidepull/guppy.
LF toe hook, RF heel on ramp in cave. LH to crimp, LF to heel on pinch, RH to higher sidepull/guppy and realise that once again you cant move from this position and fall off.
Am I doing something wrong or is it just the cakes that are defeating me?
cheers
Sounds like you are close, I think Andy's method is easier but this is a French start non?? Moony does it in a vid on Moonclimbing.com via Andy's way and with a jump. The old Peak Bouldering Guide says you can jump as well so that's good enough for me. I guess if would be purer if you pulled on tho. I did it your way except I had my left toe on the red looking spike low down the whole time, once I got the good bit of the arete with my RH I steadied then went again higher up the arete with my left foot still in the same position. Then I cut loose and put my left heel on the pinch like you did and reached up and left for the big sidepull, cut loose again and place right outside edge on sloper, reach up and its in the bag. A nice way of doing it as you stick closer to the arete the whole time which is kind of the point of the problem.
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No french starts on this, it makes it much easier. Doesn't have to be a low start, just no jumping straight to the sloper.
I find heel best for the move up comme le baron ca:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/baronbeau.jpg)
Rather than matching I prefer to get the left hand good, then go to the higher arete with right, sit on right heel on the sloper, turn left hand to a side pull and stand up. Similar to kingy's method and much nicer than the grovel involved with the match.
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is that gaskins spotting the baron???
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Balls, can somemod modify that to img tags instead of quote? No Jim. Gaskins is more intense looking.
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Wrong religion for a start Jim. This guy's obviously Yogic.
But instead of the sun, he salutes Joe Brown.
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theres some wack beta going round on this thread. yes it is a jumpstart. great problem.
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I'm suprised you have to jump Dave. Its an easier problem with a jump, a better one without. Your choice.
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i just go up to a problem with people who've tried it before, follow their beta, find it spot on for the grade given, its a good problem and i'm happy. if we're insisting that you have to pull-on then that going to rule it out for many of the damp winters days that people find themselves at froggatt - on 2 out of the 3 times i've been on this the stuff in the cave which i assume you have to pull on to start were wet. doesn't impinge on the frenchstart though.
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As I said, its your choice. As long as you can sleep at night, that's all that matters.
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like a log.
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You sleep in a porcelain loop under three inches of water?
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Listen, sonny Jim. Sleeping like this will add ten years to your life. I learned it from Keith Richards when I toured with the Stones. This may be the reason why Keith cannot be killed by conventional weapons.
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Said spotter is The Greyhound - all ribs and bollocks as a lycra clad youth.
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guess who's got a large supply of valium
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Wish I'd seen this thread before I went out today. Looked improbable to do the sequence suggested on these pages. I got the sloper with right then went again with right to sloper crimp. Then left foot near the obvious broken bit and then a horrible pop move up to a matchbox edge below the sidepulls. Then out to the arete. The pop move was quite tricky. Maybe this will work for someone.
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Thread revival!
I broke the red spike foot hold today, sorry about that. There is still a foothold just above where the spike was but it is not as good.