UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: remus on April 22, 2018, 09:49:07 pm
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Off to croatia for a few weeks and it seems like there's some DWS to go at. Detailed info seems a little thin on the ground though. Anyone have some knowledge on good spots? Any must do routes? Not averse to some off the beaten track stuff.
The guide here http://dalmatiaclimbing.com/index.php/climbing-areas/dws seems to cover a few crags but doesn't seem particularly comprehensive.
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Looking forward to the outcome of this thread as we're off Sailing around Croatia in summer and would like to pack rock shoes to have a play.
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I'll be out there about mid june so I'll try and report back in time for your trip, hopefully with details of a new Diablo!
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Ace, thanks remus. Certain that you will have seen it but in case not:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdTtq-rrIsM
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Drop Miro a message at Cliffbase (https://www.facebook.com/Cliffbase-233546953391992/). I am sure he will be able to give you some information. He owns a private harbour and some old fisherman's huts you can stay in on Hvar Island. I stayed there about 10 years ago. I doubt the DWS is the best around but it is a fantastic location with DWS from your doorstep and BBQ'd fresh fish and local wine every night!
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Isn't it covered in the Rockfax Deepwater Solo Guide? I've not looked, just assumed...
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Had a look in the rockfax DWS guide but it's pretty brief
Coratia
I drove the long and quite magical coast from Italy to Dubrovnik some years ago and failed to find any DWS potential. There is, however, much steep rock contained on Croatia's many islands, particularly in the region of Kornati. This region was explored by a British team in 2004, using boats; and the world's hardest deep water solo at that time was established by our own Steve McClure, with american Chris Sharma nipping in for the first repeat.
There are two drawbacks to a visit to this amazing region. The first is that climbing is technically banned here (although it was when the team visited in september 2004, and they experienced no real difficulties with this), and the second is that, without an expensive boat, you're unlikely to see much action, as the climbing is really only accessible by way of the ocean.
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I also dropped Paul Twomey an email, as he was on the depthcharge trip. He said the Kornati area was very beautiful and had lots of potential, but they didn't bother to record/publicise anything (beyond the film and some photos from Si Carter) because of the access sensitivities.
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Just got back and unfortunately didn't do as much dws as hoped for. Did spend an amazing day on hvar climbing here though https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=25553
Not very high but plenty to keep you busy for a day. I couldn't find a topo anywhere so was just making it up, but there's some pretty mega lines that are clean enough that I'm pretty sure they've been climbed before.
Cliffbase is the other obvious spot. I didn't go but seems like it'd have enough to keep you busy for a few days.
I also scoped out a small crag below Velika Stiniva but it wasn't up to much, a couple of sharp traverses and likely some eliminates if you could be bothered and you hated your skin.