UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: cheque on February 14, 2014, 11:03:14 am
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I'm going to be in the North East with my girlfriend Monday to Friday next week. :bounce:
At the end of last year when we decided to go my plan was to boulder on grit all winter and be in fine shape to be able to go to some crags in Northumberland (I'm not going to call it "The County" 'til I've climbed there at least once) and do some classic low (in both senses of the word) 7s.
However, as followers of my Power Club posts (Hi Mum!) will know, hurting my finger just before Christmas has forced me to accept the necessity of rehab and I can't use small holds with any kind of vigour at the moment without setting this back. My climbing at the moment is based around large amounts of fun easy stuff.
It also rains every fucking day at the moment of course.
So does anyone have any recommendations for quick-drying places up there with lots of decent 5s and low 6s I can do with one mat and no spotter? Or lots of easy soloing potential? Does that sort of stuff exist?!
:thumbsup:
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The rock is going to need to dry out properly which for next week you might get lucky.
Only spent a week there a few years ago and I believe there has since been an increase hold ersoion at the honey pots, it was bad enough when i visited.
From my limited experience there, I might get flamed for recommending over-used areas, the left end of Bowden and Back Bowden have plently of good 5's and 6's, one mat and no spotter, no problem. Also went to Hepburn and Raven's Crag, which have less but still good 5's and 6's with decent landings. There are loads of other venues but I cannot comment on them.
Had the route guide with me for some solo's as well (common practice in the county) but I got so spanked due to the climbing style, it took me a couple of bouldering sessions to get into it and by then I had lost the mojo to do any soloing, was only looking to do very easy stuff and didn't find any of them inspiring enough.
Do want to go back and top-out Lorriane, VS my @rse! The boulder prob start is very good on it's own.
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Hepburn?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9654 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9654)
The main bit has a lot of easier stuff, you might gat a bit lost looking for the stuff away from the main bit though. Depends how much time you have to spare.
Otherwise, easy soloing you've got loads to go at at Bowden, esp the far end. If you park at the far end parking you can easily combine easy soloing at Bowden with some bouldering at Back Bowden. Back Bowden is a bit more sheltered if Bowden is cold and / or windy.
edit - basically what he ^ said.
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Back Bowden may be ok under the roofs, and the rock's not so likely to get fecked by bouldering on it on smeggy damp days. Tomorrow and Wed look like the best of a bad job.
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Erm. I snapped a hold last time I was at back Bowden under the roofs on dry rock, but on a damp day. Then again I'm a fat Bastard. Don't anyone tell Lord Varian or he'll beat me up.
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Have a look at Shaftoe, cool spot.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=856 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=856)
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Also looking for recommendations for a good spot, close to the road with things for a 6 year old to go at and some 3+ (i.e. peak 6a) things for me to try. (ideally with sound rock so I won't snap off any holds)
it's been 20 years since I was up there and the memory has got rather blured.
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How close? Bits of Shaftoe fit the bill gradewise, around Mrs Mops/The Ravine area. 1.2km from the parking though.
Maybe Rothley Aretes/Pockets wall area, half a km from the nearest parking.
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Check out Dovehole Crags in Steve Crowe's guide. Good place for kids I reckon with a fun squeeze chimney boulder problem to get your 6 yr old stuck in.
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How close? Bits of Shaftoe fit the bill gradewise, around Mrs Mops/The Ravine area. 1.2km from the parking though.
Maybe Rothley Aretes/Pockets wall area, half a km from the nearest parking.
I'd like bas cuvier close. :whistle:
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I'd like bas cuvier close.
:agree:
me too, unfortunately cuvier is just under 800 miles away :'(