1

music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches

« Last post by edshakey on Yesterday at 11:18:49 pm »

Flowers
Will Sharpe (who played Ethan in The White Lotus season 2 -  also great) wrote and has great role in this also v dark comedy-drama alongside Olivia Coleman, Julian Barrett, Angus Wright, Harriet Walter, etc. I think I avoided it at the time because it sounded a bit bleak, which it is, but it's also a total work of genius. Very funny, and also very powerful / poignant. Angus Wright's character doesn't have a huge part, but what he does with it is immense. He's like the sexual tyrannosaur Mr Hyde version of the Dr Jekyll he played towards the end of Peep Show. Both of which are here - https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiXxq6589eDAxVkhP0HHfsKA34QwqsBegQIDRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F263165522&usg=AOvVaw3HFAGiWTeUuv4LW2aY81At&opi=89978449

Missed this a few months ago, but wanted to give it a bump.
My favourite TV show, ever. V dark (from the opening scene, you have been warned!) but as powerful as anything I've seen - and very funny too. It's only 6x30mins per season, and only two seasons, so not hard to plough through, although that has potential to be quite taxing if you're finding it a bit bleak... also season two gets a bit odd but the final episode is so beautiful that I would implore anyone to continue the whole way. Hmm maybe I've highlighted a few potential downsides, so I'll balance it with another "it's really really really really good!".

Great score too, from Will Sharpe's brother Arthur. I emailed him once and he was seemed nice - yet another reason to watch!

Yossarian : your description of Angus Wright's character is brilliant 

2

music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches

« Last post by seankenny on Yesterday at 10:26:47 pm »

Not a TV show per se, but if you’re a fan of French cop drama Spiral then you’ll probably enjoy this Le Monde description of a drug investigation in  a Parisian housing estate:

https://www.lemonde.fr/en/france/visuel/2024/05/01/a-deep-dive-into-a-small-narcotics-company_6670081_7.html

3

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣

« Last post by Offwidth on Yesterday at 09:59:06 pm »

It is unusual because if you track back a few years (accounts and annual reports) the financial details were more extensive. I'm afraid I can't give more details for 2022 as Council don't have them and we have been told chasing such details down is impractical (reliable Council members sit on the Board and the Finance and Audit Committee so it would be a massive conspiracy if this wasn't true).

I've already said the 2023 accounts, due for release soon, will cover a lot more detail than previous years. So from proportions compared to the sub-totals in the 2023 budget you should get a good indication of the situation wrt your questions  for 2022. The BMC can also answer questions on 2023 if things are unclear (there is an Open Forum on May 21st and a Q&A at the AGM on June 12th). The headline losses for 2022 are known, as was the reduced level of the reserves at that time (and headline GB Climbing income and costs except office costs).

I should add the situation we face is far from good,  but it is where we are. Personally I'd rather members focus on factors that still need work, especially GB Climbing stakeholder relationships and building back reserves. Also on the financial side, we know we are facing above inflation increases in Insurances costs yet again in 2024. There is also real pressure in 2024 on departmental expenditure, staff workloads and keeping as many meetings as possible online (and if anything problematic that's extra crops up, on subs).

4

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣

« Last post by Nails on Yesterday at 08:49:29 pm »

Hi Offwidth, I personally have no problem with pie charts. What I would like to understand better is the breakdown of some of the larger slices of pie in the expenditure section on the 2022 Financial Report. From a total of £4.412M expenditure:

30% - £1.305M - Administration Costs including governance Costs, AGM and Area meeting support.

26% - £1.148M - Membership Support Costs including the costs of the insurance programme.

2% - £93K - Trading support Costs to enable travel insurance sales.

The limited itemisation here is weird and rather random.

Could we have a more regular itemisation of Administraion Costs? eg. Wages, Buildings, Utilities, Legal, Travel.

That way we would be able to consider if these seemed reasonable for an organisation of
the BMC's size. How much are governance costs seeing as they are specifically mentioned? Likewise AGM and Area meeting support?

It is unclear what "Membership Support Costs" are and why including "the costs of the insurance programme" this would amount to £1.148M. What is money actually being spent on?

Why does the insurance programme not simply have a listed cost. Similarly why does the travel insurance incur "Trading Support Costs". If the insurance sections of the BMC are operating at a loss then could we simply be clear and quantify this.

A clear itemised breakdown of expenditure would go a long way to helping us all understand what on earth is going on.

5

news / Re: calling of the lime

« Last post by Fiend on Yesterday at 07:27:14 pm »

Went to Two Tier today. The walk-in was muddy and slippy and I'd forgotten to change out of my previously clean skater shoes. Despite being completely dry there was still plenty of mud and toxic slime at the back of breaks and slots. Meanwhile everything else had that weird layer of limestone dust that has a slight texture but spits you off as soon as you pull hard. Well, everything else apart from the occasional slick polished bit. It was all desperate, steeper than it looked, most holds were either blind, or faced the wrong way, or both. I managed two routes in the whole day. One was a retroed E4 6a that I had to properly work and redpoint and still could have randomly slipped off the crux. The other was a F6c+ that was a convoluted dusty pumpy nightmare that I only managed to beta-flash due to precise hold locating by Mark20. And my shoulder hurt again after being mostly manageable for two weeks.

All in, a perfect call, well done Hadyn 

6

news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by lukeyboy on Yesterday at 07:20:04 pm »

Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.


Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard

HVS 7b?

That looks terrifying!

7

news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by jwi on Yesterday at 06:55:02 pm »

Crystal clear!

8

power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by Aussiegav on Yesterday at 05:55:23 pm »

Thanks Duncan

Monday -

Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs. 
4 hangs at a total weight 79kg.
2 hangs at 84.5kg.
Effort level 7/10

Tuesday
Elbow strength training

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 82.9kg. Felt good. 7/10 effort level
 
40min peloton Tabata ride



Friday

Saturday
Golden Wall
The wall &  the climbs were better than expected. Enjoyable afternoon with Phil.

Undiscovered Blacks   5c   Lead β
Poison Flowers 6a+ Lead β
Black Bryony   6b   Lead β
Blinkin' 'eck 6b+ Lead β
The Blicks   6b   Lead RP   failed Onsight, did next go
Really enjoyed Golden Wall. Did all bar 1 route which looked the worst of them all. Which I’d not return for, but overall, I’d recommend a visit if your operating in the 6’s and want a 4 hour session on rock.

Wanted to climb at 3new crags in the Peak this year. Done two already.


Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Gym
Upping the weights. Elbow strength increasing.

9

power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by monkoffunk on Yesterday at 05:37:04 pm »

M - Yoga
T - Gym, deadlifts, weighted pull ups etc.
W - Yoga. Rest.
T - Few recruitment pulls and body weight hangs.

F - Portland in the evening. Back to the Snowflakes boulder to try the project along the lip. Worked the moves to warm up. After a couple of false starts to get back the knack for the first move, the problem went. Liberal Agenda, 7A+ first ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6ifTEnNJOn/?igsh=a2wxOXRkOGY2NmNz

A good line, probably overlooked due to its location off the beaten track (hidden in a pit) and somewhat awkward landed above a block. Then repeated Snowflakes, mostly for the grade comparison, but also adding proper blinkers at the top to just use the small crimps on the arête as per FA.

After this went to try a couple of 7Bs, Bordo Della Terra and Workshy. Bordo went well. Reassuringly I did almost all the moves on the 7B bit, and the moves I didn’t do were mostly on the start shared with a 6C+. Here my serious lack of finger tip skin integrity let me down. Not enough rock or plastic. Too much friendly wood.

Workshy somewhat further away, but still an improvement on when I tried it a few years ago! One move to do but it’s a proper crux, by far the hardest move on the problem, and essentially what the problem is all about. Perhaps not quite enough juice after everything else, will try again another day.

Definitely helped me to confirm that Snowflakes and Liberal Agenda are both in the 7A+ bracket and not hard for the grade. First move is a bit of a stopper though so I think 7A+ probably is justified.

S - Rest.
S - Yoga and rest

Very happy with the week, only my second first ascent and the other was eight years ago.

Going to take a few rest days now as been feeling the elbow extensors a little bit recently when training, nothing bad, but need a bit of a de-load.

10

news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by Fultonius on Yesterday at 05:25:46 pm »

Darth Grader reckons that converts into 8c+ route, and then running through E-Grader makes it Easy E11 with pads.

But since the 7B bit is the dodgey bit, maybe E6? Or would it be E4? Maybe E7?