UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: C Coldwell-Storry on March 22, 2018, 01:58:36 pm
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dunno how this site works...but ill just post this and see what happens...
Anyone on here live in or near Aberdeen and fancy getting out bouldering? Got a fair bit of down time at the minute until after the weekend.
Facebook might be best to contact me on.
cheers :) ; ;D
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Clocks change this weekend. I'll be getting out on an evening soon! Can exchange knowledge of Newtonhill to Muchalls Esoterica in exchange for provision of pads / spotters / enthusiasm. Sense of humour essential, as is respecting my projects!
You down Transition at all?
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CCS don't respect no projects, he'll flash your projects.
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I've got 2 projects that will challenge most. One can't be that hard though, it's only 2 moves...
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UKB - the home of sketchy names.
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What's it like bouldering around here in November?
We've been to the area in July and just sport climbed, fished and fried eggs on the rocks it was that hot
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Portlethen - In good conditions you can have a decent day at but problems tend towards short and the holds are sharp on the harder stuff.
Clashfarquar is the same, but has the added challenge of tidal access, although the Yukon boulder isn't in the tidal section and has a half dozen good porbs in the mid 6es to mid 7s and is a pretty safe bed in winter (faces dead south).
Boltsheugh doesn't have a ton (harder stuff is mostly eliminates) but the lower wall is south facing and pretty reliable too.
Pow Kebbuck / Sharmasheugh is meant to be good on a sunny morning, but i know a section of it fell in, so nit sure what's still climbable.
There are a few other options (Peel Slough Bouldering, Johnsheugh) that face North so will be out / highly unlikely.
You can stop at Clova on the way, a lovely spot and quite a bit to do if you can find it, some good trad too.
There are a few other things that have been developed that should be doable, give me a shout if you do head up and I can give you details. I can provided decent coffee too.
In summary though, if you were coming up to boulder, November is probably not the best time. Go West!
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I've never bouldered over Aberdeen way so apologies if I'm talking rubbish, but my impression has always been that the bouldering was mostly of local interest. As in, I don't think many people would travel large distances just to boulder round there. Happy to be told I'm wrong though.
Most people would head north and west to Moray, Strathnairn and (even better) on to the west coast (Applecross, Torridon, Ullapool etc).
I've lived in Scotland for nearly 2 decades and never climbed on the Aberdeen coast. I'm probably missing a trick, but if I'm honest I've never seen any bouldering that's tempted me over.
Is that blasphemy?
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I think it's fair comment. Portlethen is the most developed and could be classed as "of national importance", but I think there is better rock elsewhere.
Routes are a different story though, some great trad crags if you get them in nick and also some good sport. I hear the new Wired Guide covers the routes greatest hits pretty well, but not got it yet, hard to justify another "scottish rock" guidebook.
And east coast is often drier than the west coast (except when the haar is in).
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Since I moved west from Aberdeenshire I've never felt the need to go back, despite still having stuff I want to do there...
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Yeah Chris, I was just talking about bouldering. The route climbing looks great and there's obviously a lively and active scene. One day I'd love to visit, but whenever I have the time off my car goes into autopilot and I'm mysteriously drawn westwards.
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having lived there for two years I would generally agree about the quality of the bouldering apart maybe from the boltsheugh upper wall which has one or two relatively tall, decent things and optimus prime at clashfarquar, which is up there is with any of the best in the UK at 7C+
https://vimeo.com/115435099
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The bouldering might be only of local interest but as Chris implies the weather is often of national interest. One wouldn't necessarily travel up from the Lancs/Yorks border area for it but if you're in Scotland or having a trip there already it's a very useful area with the West/East weather divide. Clashfucker is pretty good too.
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IWM, you mean at Cammachmore! :) I was going to mention that, as it's pretty reliable but, the NE Block is the only (IMO) decent one in that area though, although it's got some good stuff on it. I think the East face holds damp more than you would like at this time of the year, but maybe a fan will sort it.
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Yeah Chris, I was just talking about bouldering. The route climbing looks great and there's obviously a lively and active scene. One day I'd love to visit, but whenever I have the time off my car goes into autopilot and I'm mysteriously drawn westwards.
Yeah, i was referring to you never heading this way at all, and meant come for the routes. Jules Lines' new Ballater Guide is worth a look too if you are tempted.
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Somehow missed all the replies. I've been busy testing liquid cheese.
I'll have a catch up
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if you're in Scotland or having a trip there already it's a very useful area with the West/East weather divide.
+1, often underestimated outside of Scotland just how much drier than the rest of the country the Aberdeenshire and Moray coasts are. Unless of course affected by haar and sea gop. The downside is how far away it is from most of the Highlands.
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Distance isn't really the issue, it's the infrastucture. Big mountains, rivers and lochs and not many ways though. Getting onto the A9 heading North at Dunkeld has nearly had me in tears before (until I found out about the sneaky route that avoids it).
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Distance isn't really the issue, it's the infrastucture. Big mountains, rivers and lochs and not many ways though. Getting onto the A9 heading North at Dunkeld has nearly had me in tears before (until I found out about the sneaky route that avoids it).
Far away as in how bloody long it takes... I can get to the lake district quicker than most of the spots in Aberdeen, from Glasgow.
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When was Glasgow in the Highlands??
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When was Glasgow in the Highlands??
:tease:
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Distance isn't really the issue, it's the infrastucture.
Well, yes. But unless you have a helicopter, to all intents and purposes it's far away!
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having lived there for two years I would generally agree about the quality of the bouldering apart maybe from the boltsheugh upper wall which has one or two relatively tall, decent things and optimus prime at clashfarquar, which is up there is with any of the best in the UK at 7C+
https://vimeo.com/115435099
Mmmm Optimus Prime is at Cammachmore…. But yeah it’s a mega feature and boulder.
Ting at Clash is pretty cool (and more enjoyable to climb than clash arete).
Sharmasheugh is largely unaffected by the fallen block and is nice in summer, the left side where Burn my Shadow and Dr Inferno are doesn’t appear to seep so probably fine year round with usual bon east coast sea cliff conditions.
Plenty of good stuff around just not in a single convenient area like Dumby for instance.
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Thoughts on these venues vs Cummingston/Primrose Bay? (Visiting friends in Moray this weekend and have a couple of pads in the van - will be driving south tomorrow late morning so could go east side of the cairngorms if it’s worth it, or just stay north go to Cummingston then drive down)
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I wouldn’t bother with the Aberdeen sea cliffs tomorrow based on the forecast. Fog seldom makes for good conditions…
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There's also a slight temperature rise tomorrow forecast for the Moray coast, with a slight breeze coming over the top of the crag, so it is also likely to be pretty smeggy there. Strathnairn might be a good option, then you can jump straight on the A9 south.
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Good info. Cheers!
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Sorry, just seen this, yep, as per AI, yesterday was foul. Saturday might have got good later..