UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on January 26, 2021, 01:29:43 pm
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Straight from moose's antlers, quite a good topic I think. Boulder problems that look good, sound good, are good in theory, and disproportionately horrible in reality, for reasons to be argued over below.
First Arete, Ilkley - is already on the list (and I suspect Yorkshire will feature quite highly in the "looks great, nasty rock" stakes, unlike say Peak Lime that is reassuringly honestly appalling from the start). But it's currently in second place behind....
The Edge Problem, Cromlech Boulders - great walk in, good boulder, nice sheer face, decent rock, bit of height....and trying to pull on that god-fucking-awful finger-morpho minge-slot is the second worst move in Wales (after the crux of Cenatoph Corner, looming above).
Let the festivities begin....
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Soft on the G; nice shapes, horrible climbing.
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Good call! Have tried and failed to hustle my way up that in "cheating conditions", and just wasn't liking it much. Maybe if you're strong enough to do 8Ball it's a jaunty finish??
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Literally everything on SW moorland granite that is considered classic. Pulling on the rock is invariably grim, even when the features and moves are great. Especially true if you're 80kg+. I think I pulled onto the Wave about three times before going through. It's not so much that I think these things are categorically shit, but instead that they can never be truly classic (in the national sense) if you place any value in the ergonomics and aesthetics of holds. Which I very much do.
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Could see that one - dismissing the entire area - coming a mile off! :lol:
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Good call! Have tried and failed to hustle my way up that in "cheating conditions", and just wasn't liking it much. Maybe if you're strong enough to do 8Ball it's a jaunty finish??
Indeed. Sotg looks like a lovely problem. I can’t judge how well it climbs as I’ve still not done it (refuse the very tall standing on a mat getting left foot on the face way) so can’t really comment except I don’t like it :)
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Possibly a controversial pick. I always think Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage is a disappointment. Looks fantastic, but just doesn't climbs well. Basically a very tricky and frustrating start (if you don't French it) and then a diagonal shuffle on better and better holds to the top. It's not really bad, but I think it is massively overrated considering its classic status.
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Sulky Little Boys.
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Possibly a controversial pick. I always think Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage is a disappointment. Looks fantastic, but just doesn't climbs well. Basically a very tricky and frustrating start (if you don't French it) and then a diagonal shuffle on better and better holds to the top. It's not really bad, but I think it is massively overrated considering its classic status.
I’m in the same boat as you. I think problems that are disjointed in their styles aren’t that great. Autobot at RMNP is another example - it still doesn’t deserve to be anywhere near this list though
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Could see that one - dismissing the entire area - coming a mile off! :lol:
It was only yesterday that I was ripping the shit out of my palms on an amazing unclimbed lip up on Bodmin. I'm an enthusiast, but I do think the best coastal offerings in the region are truly in a different league of quality.
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Possibly a controversial pick. I always think Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage is a disappointment. Looks fantastic, but just doesn't climbs well. Basically a very tricky and frustrating start (if you don't French it) and then a diagonal shuffle on better and better holds to the top. It's not really bad, but I think it is massively overrated considering its classic status.
Preach on brother.
As a shortarse I've literally only stuck the first move once in my life, and that was the time I did it.
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Ooh fun, thanks Fiend / Moose for ruining today's productivity.
Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage
Was going to mention this.
AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel. Amazing block, good line straight up the middle through the steepness. Classic status. But holy hell that pocket thing on the ramp is so flipping grim!
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AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.
Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.
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AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.
Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.
Ha sorry to disappoint! It's a good problem in every other sense, but take plenty of tape as I remember having to completely mummify my right index finger to make it bearable.
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Ooh fun, thanks Fiend / Moose for ruining today's productivity.
Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage
Was going to mention this.
AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel. Amazing block, good line straight up the middle through the steepness. Classic status. But holy hell that pocket thing on the ramp is so flipping grim!
It's ok *only if* you specifically tape your index finger for that move.
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Sulky Little Boys.
It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. ;)
Certainly a very frustrating problem, but a nice looking line.
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edit never mind others had said the same thing
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Sulky Little Boys.
It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. ;)
Certainly a very frustrating problem, but a nice looking line.
Reach helps at first - but then lank gets in the way when trying to paste your toes bunched up on nothingnesses on the face...
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Sulky Little Boys.
It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. ;)
Certainly a very frustrating problem, but a nice looking line.
Reach helps at first - but then lank gets in the way when trying to paste your toes bunched up on nothingnesses on the face...
Haha, I see you are an experienced climber. Always have a good excuse on hand. ;D
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As someone who once did the start of NTBTA fairly easily, jumped off as my partner was literally heading back to the car with his mats, never got round to doing it again then ruled myself out of bouldering (particularly highballs) for good, this “NTBTA’s shit” talk should be music to my ears but it’s still top of my list of bouldering regrets. :'(
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Wisecrack Direct at Slipstones. Cool looking, 3*, holds like razors, I have shed blood numerous times on this, ending a session once when I have removed almost all skin from knuckles. I still have the scars.
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Literally everything on SW moorland granite that is considered classic. Pulling on the rock is invariably grim, even when the features and moves are great. Especially true if you're 80kg+. I think I pulled onto the Wave about three times before going through. It's not so much that I think these things are categorically shit, but instead that they can never be truly classic (in the national sense) if you place any value in the ergonomics and aesthetics of holds. Which I very much do.
So much for southern softies eh?! I'm a fan of the granite down here (needs must!). Like any rock type the holds and the quality varies hugely. The 'monkey paw' on the Wave is infamously sharp. I would nominate Devon Sent though, a stunning line on an impressive boulder but my god, for Dartmoor granite, the holds are viciously sharp right from the start. If you can dispatch technical 7c+ in 2 goes then maybe it is a classic, for everyone else it's a horror show that'll see to your tips in quick time.
AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.
Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.
Fear not Cofe, a well placed bit of taping on your right index finger, it becomes a comfortable pocket and an absolute classic again.
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Sulky Little Boys.
It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. ;)
TBF if you're tall it's only V5, but it's going to be a pretty tough and frustrating V5 (unless you're really flexible in the hips I guess). If you actually have to do the hard bit it's better balanced overall.
NTBTA is a good one. A brilliant E2 5b/c old skool solo somewhat spoilt by a genuinely mundane foot-skidding grunt-fest starting move.
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At least I know to tape up for AWOL!
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:lol:
At least I know to tape up for AWOL!
I was too slow off the draw! It's a banger, keep it on your list!
Does everyone just need to toughen up a bit?? I'm sure some crack aficionados are watching this and thinking isn't the pain part of the experience.
I quite like NTBA, the way it gradually eases with height makes it a good steady highball and what a line!
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Does everyone just need to toughen up a bit?? I'm sure some crack aficionados are watching this and thinking isn't the pain part of the experience.
Whatever those masochists get up to is their business but bouldering on nice holds is way preferable to horrible Tor granite!
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Can't believe the shit being talked about NTBTA. The start is the entry exam that allows you to enjoy the ramp. It's popular enough as it is. Imagine how overrun and trite it would be if the start was a path. I love it.
+1 for Sulky Little Boys. It's an OK problem but it's lauded as one of the best. The climbing on it is really overrated.
I was very disappointed with Sloping Beauty. Again, not a terrible problem if you can ignore the hideous sharpness, but not nearly as good as its rep.
Titfield Thunderbolt. I'd never really got round to it and then, one day, I ended up underneath it. Imagine my excitement. A 7B+ dyno. I love dynos. And then I discover that the crux is pulling on using the correct starting holds and the top jump is about 5a. And so overgraded! It must be 7A or 7A+ for the pull on? I've seen people doing it off a huge pad stack. How do they fucking look themselves in the mirror.
Baby Spice. Another arete touted as a regional ultra-classic which completely fails to live up to expectations.
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the top jump is about 5a. And so overgraded! It must be 7A or 7A+ for the pull on?
Strange, I found the pull on to be about 5a from one pad and the jump about 7B!
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the top jump is about 5a. And so overgraded! It must be 7A or 7A+ for the pull on?
Strange, I found the pull on to be about 5a from one pad and the jump about 7B!
I think it's supposed to be started from the two lowest crimps on the curving feature. Some people seem to start halfway up the crag :spank:
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the top jump is about 5a. And so overgraded! It must be 7A or 7A+ for the pull on?
Strange, I found the pull on to be about 5a from one pad and the jump about 7B!
Will Hunt talking bollocks about grades yet again shocker.
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Soft on the G; nice shapes, horrible climbing.
+1
Full Power's even worse, where the hardest move is placing a blind heel correctly before you even start to climb.
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I really like NTBTA and Sulky Little Boys. Accept that the climbing doesn't match the quality of the line but that's true for loads of problems I think. The feeling of doing it for the first time was brilliant for me. SLB is a technical challenge and probably suffers from being conditions dependent at one of the most conditions dependent crags I've visited. Again though, nothing unusual there.
I nominate Ringpiece. The crimp on that thing is like a bread knife and it's not even good rock.
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I was a bit disappointed by Brain Dead at Cratcliffe. Not bad by any means but the moves left me a bit underwhelmed at the top even without properly lanking it!
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Deliverance. The problem is great and all, but the siege squad of absolute weapons with their half dozen massive snap pads, baggy solutions scrabbling at feet which are accompanied by massive tick marks whether they are useful or not, and just generally being chodes fucking ruins the problem for me.
I absolutely love the edge problem at the cromlech, but I kind of agree with its place on here! Between the sit start which isn't a sit start (unless you start on the hidden mono), the stand start which now requires you to be 7ft tall with a positive ape, and suffering from a milder strain of deliverance chode squad syndrome, it earns it's place. I do enjoy watching peoples first encounter with those holds though, always a treat.
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Titfield Thunderbolt.
I don't think the stand is a poor quality problem at all, it just suffers from too many people cheating themselves and starting high.
The sit is superb I think. No "where do I pull on" ambiguity, and delicate, barn doory tech all the way. One of my favourite climbing memories, topping it out in the dark with just my phone lighting the way.
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Boulder problems that look good, sound good, are good in theory, and disproportionately horrible in reality, for reasons to be argued over below.
All morpho problems ever?
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I dunno, the 3% of problems that are morphologically easier for the short seem pretty inherently good.
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Can't believe the shit being talked about NTBTA. The start is the entry exam that allows you to enjoy the ramp. It's popular enough as it is. Imagine how overrun and trite it would be if the start was a path. I love it.
Spoken like a true lankster.
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I can’t be the only person whose enthusiasm to climb T Crack was extinguished when they discovered how many rules it has.
Does everyone just need to toughen up a bit?? I'm sure some crack aficionados are watching this and thinking isn't the pain part of the experience.
https://youtu.be/l1FlyZF_uPo
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Amazed Peak lime hasn't had a mention yet. Mind you - it all generally looks like shit at first acquaintance...
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Even looking at T-Crack makes me feel simultaneously ill, and grateful that I'm not good enough to attempt it. Don't 7B climbers have anything better to do??
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Amazed Peak lime hasn't had a mention yet. Mind you - it all generally looks like shit at first acquaintance...
...and then on closer acquaintance they blossom like a beautiful flower, revealing their inner beauty to the true disciples.
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T-Crack climbs really well despite the rules on the block at the start (logical) and avoiding the chip (obviously).
NTBTA great by me, crux guarding the entry then a matter of holding your nerve. Perfect.
But yeah, SLB was disappointing. Maybe fill the pocket in
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AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.
Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.
Fear not cofe, I'll fight its corner. Tape up your index finger and it's fine. Your finger basically slots in like a bomber rock 6 with no pain. Great problem (and a great holiday tick if you catch my drift)
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Literally everything on SW moorland granite that is considered classic. Pulling on the rock is invariably grim, even when the features and moves are great. Especially true if you're 80kg+. I think I pulled onto the Wave about three times before going through. It's not so much that I think these things are categorically shit, but instead that they can never be truly classic (in the national sense) if you place any value in the ergonomics and aesthetics of holds. Which I very much do.
As much as it upsets me, this is so true. I always think I'm going to be psyched for dartmoor projects when winter comes around, and I always end up going to the coastal limestone. And I live 20 mins from bonehill etc.
This year I've been putting some time into Devon Sent. Amazing line, great moves, consistent difficulty, lovely location... But my god the holds are grim. I generally manage about 4 good goes before I start going through. Which is good for family credit as I'm only out the house for an hour.
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Literally everything on SW moorland granite that is considered classic. Pulling on the rock is invariably grim, even when the features and moves are great. Especially true if you're 80kg+. I think I pulled onto the Wave about three times before going through. It's not so much that I think these things are categorically shit, but instead that they can never be truly classic (in the national sense) if you place any value in the ergonomics and aesthetics of holds. Which I very much do.
So much for southern softies eh?! I'm a fan of the granite down here (needs must!). Like any rock type the holds and the quality varies hugely. The 'monkey paw' on the Wave is infamously sharp. I would nominate Devon Sent though, a stunning line on an impressive boulder but my god, for Dartmoor granite, the holds are viciously sharp right from the start. If you can dispatch technical 7c+ in 2 goes then maybe it is a classic, for everyone else it's a horror show that'll see to your tips in quick time.
AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.
Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.
Fear not Cofe, a well placed bit of taping on your right index finger, it becomes a comfortable pocket and an absolute classic again.
I replied to the thread before reading your post grant and seem to have said precisely the same thing as you! Great minds
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Can't believe the shit being talked about NTBTA. The start is the entry exam that allows you to enjoy the ramp. It's popular enough as it is. Imagine how overrun and trite it would be if the start was a path. I love it.
If only this was true. I've seen numerous people just use a french start to get past the first move(s) and then carry on up the ramp. To be fair I don't blame them. It is probably overall a better problem like that. More consistent challenge rather than a stopper move off the floor.
The direct finish To Be Or Not To Be is a much better problem all round but less aesthetic. Although I have never actually latched the top dyno. Its scary and hard to commit fully. But getting established is much more consistent difficulty and better moves. Definitely one for a few pads and a spot.
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Literally everything on SW moorland granite that is considered classic. Pulling on the rock is invariably grim, even when the features and moves are great. Especially true if you're 80kg+. I think I pulled onto the Wave about three times before going through. It's not so much that I think these things are categorically shit, but instead that they can never be truly classic (in the national sense) if you place any value in the ergonomics and aesthetics of holds. Which I very much do.
So much for southern softies eh?! I'm a fan of the granite down here (needs must!). Like any rock type the holds and the quality varies hugely. The 'monkey paw' on the Wave is infamously sharp. I would nominate Devon Sent though, a stunning line on an impressive boulder but my god, for Dartmoor granite, the holds are viciously sharp right from the start. If you can dispatch technical 7c+ in 2 goes then maybe it is a classic, for everyone else it's a horror show that'll see to your tips in quick time.
AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.
Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.
Fear not Cofe, a well placed bit of taping on your right index finger, it becomes a comfortable pocket and an absolute classic again.
I replied to the thread before reading your post grant and seem to have said precisely the same thing as you! Great minds
If Cofe forgets to bring finger tape to the Taj now he deserves to be smited by that pocket.
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If he walks away with a bloodied stump instead of a finger, he better not say we didn't warn him.
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Not national levels of disappointment but Heroes at Baslow looks a really cool feature as you approach it from the right and you imagine clamping up the prow, but unfortunately the line of least resistance leads you up the left side and you actually only touch the right side once. It's not touted as a classic but feels like it's cutting the corner and missing out on what the problem should be
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1078/standard_1078.png)
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T-Crack climbs really well despite the rules on the block at the start (logical) and avoiding the chip (obviously).
At the risk of going off topic what are the rules for the starting block? Hands only to the right of the crack?
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Fontainebleau, 'L'Angle Parfait, L'Angle Allain. The first because it's horrible, the second because I can't do it.
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At the risk of going off topic what are the rules for the starting block? Hands only to the right of the crack?
And feet
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Fontainebleau, 'L'Angle Parfait, L'Angle Allain. The first because it's horrible, the second because I can't do it.
Oh I forgot L'Angle Ben's, horrid problem.
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At the risk of going off topic what are the rules for the starting block? Hands only to the right of the crack?
And feet
Having just rewatched a video that makes complete sense! I definitely misremembered how the starting block looks
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Souvenir in Chironico. Coloured rock, Fred's classic, etc., then I got there and found it's a morpho, painful problem, that lends itself to every imaginable cheating trickery.
Then I did it (twice) and realized it is indeed a majestic problem.
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Fontainebleau, 'L'Angle Parfait, L'Angle Allain. The first because it's horrible, the second because I can't do it.
Oh I forgot L'Angle Ben's, horrid problem.
I guess you aren't much of a fan of aretes?
I enjoyed L'Angle Parfait, although L'Angle Plus que Parfait opposite it was even better.
We did L'Angle Allain as a warm up without realising what problem it was. It was fine but unremarkable.
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Fontainebleau, 'L'Angle Parfait, L'Angle Allain. The first because it's horrible, the second because I can't do it.
Oh I forgot L'Angle Ben's, horrid problem.
Get the fuck out of here.
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Not national levels of disappointment but Heroes at Baslow looks a really cool feature as you approach it from the right and you imagine clamping up the prow, but unfortunately the line of least resistance leads you up the left side and you actually only touch the right side once. It's not touted as a classic but feels like it's cutting the corner and missing out on what the problem should be
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1078/standard_1078.png)
Rhino in Rocklands would fall down for the same reason, doesn't climb as good as it looks and sticks to one side of the prow apart from the start...
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"Not climbing as good as it looks" still leaves The Rhino plenty of room to be fucking amazing, which it is.
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"Not climbing as good as it looks" still leaves The Rhino plenty of room to be fucking amazing, which it is.
OH yeah, def deserves to be nowhere near this thread
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Fontainebleau, 'L'Angle Parfait, L'Angle Allain. The first because it's horrible, the second because I can't do it.
Oh I forgot L'Angle Ben's, horrid problem.
Get the fuck out of here.
Forgive me...actually I got that all wrong, L'Angle Allain is obv not hard and I've done that one, (one move really) Parfait I haven't done, Ben's is horrible, nasty hold and slippy. I do like aretes, just not sharp ones where you feel like a slip might hurt and it all comes down to what shoes you are wearing. ;)
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Fontainebleau, 'L'Angle Parfait, L'Angle Allain. The first because it's horrible, the second because I can't do it.
Oh I forgot L'Angle Ben's, horrid problem.
The whole point of L'Angle Bens is that it doesn't stick
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"Not climbing as good as it looks" still leaves The Rhino plenty of room to be fucking amazing, which it is.
OH yeah, def deserves to be nowhere near this thread
Why'd you bring it up then? :lol: :chair:
Heard a couple of people say they weren't all that impressed but I thought it was great fun!
On Rocklands though; Question of Balance. Supposed to be super classic up a big overhanging face on a massive boulder. Turns out to involve a horrible lurch on grim, polished holds and with a side helping of knee injury if you're not careful.
Full disclaimer, I tried it for 20 minutes, didn't do it but worked out the above and decided there were thousands of much better things to do.
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On Rocklands though; Question of Balance. Supposed to be super classic up a big overhanging face on a massive boulder. Turns out to involve a horrible lurch on grim, polished holds and with a side helping of knee injury if you're not careful.
I think this is just quite a knacky move. It took me a while and it felt pretty thrutchy when I didnt have the position, but as soon as I got the heel just right it was straightforward and pretty satisfying. One of those where I felt like I got very marginally better at climbing in doing the problem.
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I was a bit disappointed by Brain Dead at Cratcliffe. Not bad by any means but the moves left me a bit underwhelmed at the top even without properly lanking it!
It climbs much better on the right side.
Hey Cofe, don't worry about that pocket on AWOL, it's fine, you just need to put some tape on one finger. :thumbsup:
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Fontainebleau, 'L'Angle Parfait, L'Angle Allain. The first because it's horrible, the second because I can't do it.
Oh I forgot L'Angle Ben's, horrid problem.
The whole point of L'Angle Bens is that it doesn't stick
So I see the problem, it looks great, try and climb it, then disappointingly find my foot keeps slipping, meretricious little so and so!
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West Side Story.
John Allen E4 7a, perfect line of sidepulls and a tasty height. Sounds perfect
But in reality it's all about the horribly conditions dependent left hand crimp you have to wiggle your fingers into, that skins your knuckles when you inevitably ping off it. Then a perma-damp awkward cross handed finish. And an in situ show pony getting in the way
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West Side Story.
John Allen E4 7a, perfect line of sidepulls and a tasty height. Sounds perfect
But in reality it's all about the horribly conditions dependent left hand crimp you have to wiggle your fingers into, that skins your knuckles when you inevitably ping off it. Then a perma-damp awkward cross handed finish. And an in situ show pony getting in the way
I'm gonna have to disagree with this.... I've not 'done it' as I've never topped out - but been up to the porthole 2-3 times...
The LH little crimpy edge is hard - but on the right day, with good skin it sticks in there fine. Then its a set of (for me) really cool sequency moves up the face, where body position and the right footholds can make the impossible suddenly click and flow smoothly. Which is (i'd argue) one of the great things about grit problems...
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West Side Story.
John Allen E4 7a, perfect line of sidepulls and a tasty height. Sounds perfect
But in reality it's all about the horribly conditions dependent left hand crimp you have to wiggle your fingers into, that skins your knuckles when you inevitably ping off it. Then a perma-damp awkward cross handed finish. And an in situ show pony getting in the way
But - In a similar vein, I'm gonna nominate Fight on the Black at Widdop. Looks like such. a. line. But really is a test of how much pain you can endure wrapping your left index finger around a large sharpish pebble, work your feet up blind to hopefully the right dimples then throw for a scrittly/green (dependant on the weather) break. Then a death defying top out involving a usually green and damp 45 degree sloping slab. The problem has a great back story (hence the name) and looks cool - but ffs its pretty wank.
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West Side Story.
Madness. One of the best problems on grit!
Fight on the Black at Widdop
It's been a while since I last did it, so I could be wrong, but I think it's both easier and much more pleasant if you don't use the big pebble and get a little dish thing higher up?
I remember it being a lovely little test of gritstone movement anyway.
If we're judging on skin intensiveness then you could add a lot of grit problems here (unfairly in my view).
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West Side Story.
John Allen E4 7a, perfect line of sidepulls and a tasty height. Sounds perfect
But in reality it's all about the horribly conditions dependent left hand crimp you have to wiggle your fingers into, that skins your knuckles when you inevitably ping off it. Then a perma-damp awkward cross handed finish. And an in situ show pony getting in the way
Didn't think I'd hear that coming from you! I was considering mentioning it but hadn't dared for fear of being lynched.
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I was a bit disappointed by Brain Dead at Cratcliffe. Not bad by any means but the moves left me a bit underwhelmed at the top even without properly lanking it!
It climbs much better on the right side.
The problem with Brain Dead is if you're expecting a 6C on the left or right, starting off the RH ledge, you're going to be a bit disappointed with the lovely but easy highball 6B you get, and if you're expecting a 6C starting off the ground on the left, you're going to be a bit disappointed in the grim >7A "foot in armpit" prolapse-inducing grovel you get.
There's probably quite a few blocs that would be considerably less bogus and disappointing if they had accurate descriptions and grades...
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I toyed with the idea of Fight on Black. I'd been looking forward to it for years and ended up a bit disappointed as I didn't think the movement matched up to the quality of the line and history. But I'm conscious that I had reeeeeeally thin skin when I did it and it ended up as a race against time before I split. I seem to remember doing it as you did it TT, with a blind foothold that I had to put huge tick marks on (I brushed them off afterwards obvs) to guide me into it - I think shorter/more flexible people tend to do a high heel on the arête instead which maybe feels better. More a case of having a 1-star experience on a 3-star problem than something actually being overrated.
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West Side Story.
John Allen E4 7a, perfect line of sidepulls and a tasty height. Sounds perfect
But in reality it's all about the horribly conditions dependent left hand crimp you have to wiggle your fingers into, that skins your knuckles when you inevitably ping off it. Then a perma-damp awkward cross handed finish. And an in situ show pony getting in the way
The nicest sequence doesn’t even use the crimp, but it’s more core intensive and you need to be flexible.
I can’t actually think of a finer problem on the Eastern edges.
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It's kind of telling that rock sharpness seems to be a recurring theme here. Not one particular problem, but I was disappointed in Eskdale Fisherground. Having been anticipating a trip there for quite a while I did the stand to Rob's Wall, the sit to Strong Arete, and a couple of pleasant easy highballs. We went searching for more quality and didn't really find it. For such an extensive, hyped area I thought it delivered relatively little. And that rock! Cheese graters would blush. I don't think I'll be going back. I've similar thoughts about Carrock Fell, but I think we missed the best bit of it - seems like a venue that comes into its own in the mid-high 7s.
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@ mrjonathanr - please give a wad point to MOOSE as I just directly copied his description from the First Arete thread :ang:
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I toyed with the idea of Fight on Black. I'd been looking forward to it for years and ended up a bit disappointed as I didn't think the movement matched up to the quality of the line and history. But I'm conscious that I had reeeeeeally thin skin when I did it and it ended up as a race against time before I split. I seem to remember doing it as you did it TT, with a blind foothold that I had to put huge tick marks on (I brushed them off afterwards obvs) to guide me into it - I think shorter/more flexible people tend to do a high heel on the arête instead which maybe feels better. More a case of having a 1-star experience on a 3-star problem than something actually being overrated.
May also be a case of missing out a final foot/hand shuffle up the RH side before slapping the top if you're tall... that may detract from the experience (see below) - however I remember taping up my left index finger - and basically it only feeling alright once I'd had about 5 or 6 goes and my left finger had become numb to the pain... and the top fucking break was damp and green...
Whilst Fiend has moaned mentioned problems being crap because of not being normal height tall ( :D ) for the taller climbers, classics can become - erm - far less classic because you lank/reach past a tricky bit that is integral to the enjoyment/movement of the problem. Of course you can always go and do it without a lank method....
I'm tempted to say Crag X - as whilst is an amazing spot and I love it - I'm struggling to say I've thought any of the problems I've done there are actually any good... the HUUGE caveat is that the harderst thing I've done there is 7B so the much greater number of harder problems there may be boss - in which case I'm talking shite :D
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It's kind of telling that rock sharpness seems to be a recurring theme here. Not one particular problem, but I was disappointed in Eskdale Fisherground. Having been anticipating a trip there for quite a while I did the stand to Rob's Wall, the sit to Strong Arete, and a couple of pleasant easy highballs. We went searching for more quality and didn't really find it. For such an extensive, hyped area I thought it delivered relatively little. And that rock! Cheese graters would blush. I don't think I'll be going back. I've similar thoughts about Carrock Fell, but I think we missed the best bit of it - seems like a venue that comes into its own in the mid-high 7s.
Carrock is superb! Having consistently been spanked by anything with a 7 in it, I've climbed loads of top quality 6's there... superb venue...
I liked Eskdale Fishground (rock is superb!) but didn't do much exploring... perhaps its not extensive as you hoped? Robs is tip top though. 3* all the way.
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It's kind of telling that rock sharpness seems to be a recurring theme here.
It’s a funny one isn’t it, sometimes it seems to be a deal breaker but not other times. For example Lad Stones has a lot of v sharp holds and rock, but I love it there and I don’t think it detracts from the overall experience.
With a lot of grit problems with sharp holds (FoB being a good example) for me part of the problem solving has always been how to use those holds without pulling too hard and fucking your skin.
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Interestingly, no County probs have been mentioned.
I find a lot of the stuff under the right roof at Back Bowden generally disappointing; confusion of holds, random starts & finishes, chalk, broken flakes and polish.
A bit like Dumbarton :)
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I've similar thoughts about Carrock Fell, but I think we missed the best bit of it - seems like a venue that comes into its own in the mid-high 6s.
Fixed. Genuinely great stuff around the 6s mark, and a lot of it and varied too. But it's best viewed like gritstone as far as conditions choices go.
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I was a bit disappointed by Brain Dead at Cratcliffe. Not bad by any means but the moves left me a bit underwhelmed at the top even without properly lanking it!
It climbs much better on the right side.
The problem with Brain Dead is if you're expecting a 6C on the left or right, starting off the RH ledge, you're going to be a bit disappointed with the lovely but easy highball 6B you get, and if you're expecting a 6C starting off the ground on the left, you're going to be a bit disappointed in the grim >7A "foot in armpit" prolapse-inducing grovel you get.
There's probably quite a few blocs that would be considerably less bogus and disappointing if they had accurate descriptions and grades...
Start on the left using a knee smear instead of super high foot, finish on the right. It'll be an amazing problem one day when the start jug falls off.
WSS - At least it doesn't involve pulling on that hideous lh pebble anymore. Used to leave a numb patch on the side of my index finger for a week every time I tried it.
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It’s a funny one isn’t it, sometimes it seems to be a deal breaker but not other times. For example Lad Stones has a lot of v sharp holds and rock, but I love it there and I don’t think it detracts from the overall experience.
I was thinking of mentioning Lad Stones. I've only been once, and my experience was certainly affected by being on my own on a fairly humid day, but I was really disappointed. Suspect I just need to go back in good connies and with a big team though.
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Interestingly, no County probs have been mentioned.
I find a lot of the stuff under the right roof at Back Bowden generally disappointing; confusion of holds, random starts & finishes, chalk, broken flakes and polish.
A bit like Dumbarton :)
I kind of agree with the disappointing bit as its not typical county quality but dont get the reasons. The main problems are all obvious and non eliminate, not broken from memory and all can be finished properly but no one does.. Some of Dans stuff takes a bit to work out but thats more due to them looking impossible.
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Blind date. Burbage. Looks amazing but really pokey to climb. Spoils blind fig by making it an eliminate.
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Blind date. Burbage. Looks amazing but really pokey to climb. Spoils blind fig by making it an eliminate.
Ha - I was going to say the opposite- looks rubbish but climbs really well! Bit of power - good bit of knack and body position.
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That's a good reminder - Banana Finger - make a vanilla move, fiddle around in a slot, more vanilla, lie on the slab, finish.
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I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.
Magic Wood. Crowded with choads, no views, every problem starts in a pit/doesn't top out/has a really dodge landing. I love bouldering in switz but thought this was awful. Maybe it comes into it's own in the 8s?
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I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.
I don't know about that James! Trad climbing adds a whole new level for quality looking line but awful climbing/experience. Bertie's Bugbear at Wimberry looks quality and is a low grade classic. In the end it was a slippery scary mess. My gear fell out as I tried to back off the damp greenness I'd ended up on. And as if it wasn't slippery enough already there was an actual banana skin stuck in the crack/groove!
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I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.
Just my thinking, a sorry read indeed, 'Classics I found harder than I wanted them to be'. Anyone slagging NTBTA needs to stick to their shitty eliminate cave they presumably prefer. And don't get me started on the irony of not liking Deliverance because its popular.
Blind date. Burbage. Looks amazing but really pokey to climb. Spoils blind fig by making it an eliminate.
Although this is bang on tbf.
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Or "classics that look good, and I really want to climb, but are just so damn painful they aren't really that enjoyable"
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I toyed with the idea of Fight on Black. I'd been looking forward to it for years and ended up a bit disappointed as I didn't think the movement matched up to the quality of the line and history. But I'm conscious that I had reeeeeeally thin skin when I did it and it ended up as a race against time before I split. I seem to remember doing it as you did it TT, with a blind foothold that I had to put huge tick marks on (I brushed them off afterwards obvs) to guide me into it - I think shorter/more flexible people tend to do a high heel on the arête instead which maybe feels better. More a case of having a 1-star experience on a 3-star problem than something actually being overrated.
May also be a case of missing out a final foot/hand shuffle up the RH side before slapping the top if you're tall... that may detract from the experience (see below) - however I remember taping up my left index finger - and basically it only feeling alright once I'd had about 5 or 6 goes and my left finger had become numb to the pain... and the top fucking break was damp and green...
Whilst Fiend has moaned mentioned problems being crap because of not being normal height tall ( :D ) for the taller climbers, classics can become - erm - far less classic because you lank/reach past a tricky bit that is integral to the enjoyment/movement of the problem. Of course you can always go and do it without a lank method....
I'm tempted to say Crag X - as whilst is an amazing spot and I love it - I'm struggling to say I've thought any of the problems I've done there are actually any good... the HUUGE caveat is that the harderst thing I've done there is 7B so the much greater number of harder problems there may be boss - in which case I'm talking shite :D
I mean the threads about individual blocs not crags but I’ll defend X for what’s it worth.
Along with Badger it’s the best peak lime has to offer bouldering wise for me. Not sure how much that says of the quality but they do certainly beat the other lime crags I’ve been to in the area hands down.
Crags a nice height, with good landings, decent rock, not a sun trap. Has plenty of history.
The Hulk is brilliant, and I enjoyed Pink Indians, SpiderMan, Jason’s/Sean’s.
Compared to stuff at a similar grade at the tor or rubicon they are imo at least miles better.
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I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.
Magic Wood. Crowded with choads, no views, every problem starts in a pit/doesn't top out/has a really dodge landing. I love bouldering in switz but thought this was awful. Maybe it comes into it's own in the 8s?
If we are including stuff on ropes (which we probably aren't) then I would put on the table basically every mid grade slate slab after you have done a dozen or so slate slabs that season. Here follows a lesson on how to climb 90% of HVS-E6 slate slabs (which is 80% of all slate):
step 1) run it out on a polished and committed but fairly easy start to an uncomfortable bolt at 7m.
step 2) do the crux rock over on a small edge, then perhaps do a few more. The grade of the route is a mathematically rigorous function of hold size and how close to your ear you have to get your foot. Clip another bolt.
step 3) run it out on easy ground to the top.
bonus step) use a skyhook somewhere.
Most slate routes are just other slate routes but at a different grade. I quite like it though.
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Or "classics that look good, and I really want to climb, but are just so damn painful they aren't really that enjoyable"
This seems a fair way to describe it, on the basis there are plenty of "classics that look good and I really want to climb but aren't unpleasantly painful/grim"...
Along those lines then; Precious in Glen Croe. Absolutely flipping banging line, big steep arete, just really classic. But I've been on it twice and both times come away with a finger injury from the utterly disgusting pocket you have to use. The pocket on AWOL is a joy in comparison.
Still really want to do it though :-\
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Fair enough Jack :) hence my caveat that I'm not operating at the grade to make the most of it...
It is a lovely spot. Without doubt.
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I kind of agree with the disappointing bit as its not typical county quality but dont get the reasons. The main problems are all obvious and non eliminate, not broken from memory and all can be finished properly but no one does.. Some of Dans stuff takes a bit to work out but thats more due to them looking impossible.
Problem is the main problems have been blurred by the non-main problems into a mess of lines and eliminates, not all of which are worth writing up individually (IMO). There are quite a few obvious places where flakes have been snapped off? I think the area is a victim of good conditions, and can be climbed on in the wet, even though you shouldn't.
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Just my thinking, a sorry read indeed, 'Classics I found harder than I wanted them to be'. Anyone slagging NTBTA needs to stick to their shitty eliminate cave they presumably prefer. And don't get me started on the irony of not liking Deliverance because its popular.
By definition this thread is gonna make sorry reading for a lot of people. To be disappointed by a problem you need to go in expecting good things and then have your expectations not align with the reality, and one of the main reasons you go in with big expectations is because people keep harping on about how amazing problem x is.
NTBTA is a prime example. It's a fuckin sweet line but it climbs like shit. It's a polished one mover off the deck then a romp to the top. Sky high expectation of that sweet ramp bought firmly back down to earth by shit climbing!
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I don't even think of that first move as part of the problem. It's the 6A (or whatever) of the crag that not everybody is allowed to climb.
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Just my thinking, a sorry read indeed, 'Classics I found harder than I wanted them to be'. Anyone slagging NTBTA needs to stick to their shitty eliminate cave they presumably prefer. And don't get me started on the irony of not liking Deliverance because its popular.
Do people really get annoyed with opinions which differ from their own nowdays? Well I never!
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For completeness can we have a thread for climbs on Blocs (!) that look shit - and climb like shit too :)
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The following is :offtopic: :sorry:
Bertie's Bugbear at Wimberry looks quality and is a low grade classic. In the end it was a slippery scary mess. My gear fell out as I tried to back off the damp greenness I'd ended up on. And as if it wasn't slippery enough already there was an actual banana skin stuck in the crack/groove!
:lol: What a “classic”! It is great climbing under there I reckon. I enjoyed it... :look:
Wimberry’s the north Peak’s Black Rocks- lots of good and even great low-grade climbing but mostly in styles that most modern low-grade climbers are rubbish at and wary of, with an aspect and non-climbing clientele that covers them in moss and litter if they’re not climbed regularly, so a vicious circle of dirty/ not enough traffic/ dirtier/ even less traffic etc. ensues.
Psyched locals are of course the key to fixing these problems but not many fitting that description want to clean HVDs on abseil... the day I did Bertie’s my Chew local partner was so embarrassed by the state of the place and inspired by my tales of how nice I got BR with a bit of effort that he tried to drum up volunteers for a clean-up day on the Chew Facebook group- most of the responses were old blokes saying things like “don’t use a stiff brush” and “it doesn’t need cleaning, just a dry day”. They obviously hadn’t been on any of the routes for decades. ::)
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Deliverance. The problem is great and all, but the siege squad of absolute weapons with their half dozen massive snap pads, baggy solutions scrabbling at feet which are accompanied by massive tick marks whether they are useful or not, and just generally being chodes fucking ruins the problem for me.
Problem with Deliverpants is it's in such a prominent spot, that just about anyone walking down from that part of Stanage walks past it, and that it's reasonably easy to pull into position on, but about a half dozen different choices of ways to get close to, but not actually do it. So you get bunches of folk "sessioning" on it, each one trying the other's beta with the same lack of result, as the rock gets steadily more polished.
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Magic Wood. Crowded with choads, no views, every problem starts in a pit/doesn't top out/has a really dodge landing. I love bouldering in switz but thought this was awful. Maybe it comes into it's own in the 8s?
I feel a need to stick up for Magic Wood. Lack of views and crowds are fair critiques although there are some stunning views a short walk/drive away. There seemed to be a higher number of dickheads there than anywhere else I've climbed and the climbing, campsite and surrounding areas are suffering from traffic and misuse. But there's loads of climbing there so it's easy to avoid the crowds and we met some great people there too.
Landings can be bad and getting around can be a pain because of the terrain. But most of the awkward landings have been sanitised. We only took one or two pads each and I can't remember walking away from any problems due to the landing.
But the great thing about Magic Wood is the huge concentration of great climbs across the grades. Wherever you go, you're never more than about a 1 minute walk from a classic climb in the 6s, 7s and 8s.
You don't need a car once you're there and it's such an easy place to go for a mixed ability group.
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For completeness can we have a thread for climbs on Blocs (!) that look shit - and climb like shit too :)
The likelihood that geology and related alchemy will produce: (i) not choss; (ii) nice looking features; (iii) climbable features; (iv) comfortable holds; (v) not too many holds; (vi) interesting and challenging movement; (vii) good landings...and the rest, is vanishingly small.
Rarity seems to me to be the very thing that makes good boulders so fucking cool. And indeed why I think they're often so much cooler than routes, where these things are rarer still. It's the gift of chance. 99% of all stuff I've ever found would fit the bill of 'looks shit and climbs like shit'. Although the problems described in this thread are in the frustrating 'looks amazing but climbs shit' category, there's nothing more galling to me than 'looks amazing but is unclimbable'. Fuck that category to hell and back.
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Magic Wood. Crowded with choads, no views, every problem starts in a pit/doesn't top out/has a really dodge landing. I love bouldering in switz but thought this was awful. Maybe it comes into it's own in the 8s?
I feel a need to stick up for Magic Wood. Lack of views and crowds are fair critiques although there are some stunning views a short walk/drive away. There seemed to be a higher number of dickheads there than anywhere else I've climbed and the climbing, campsite and surrounding areas are suffering from traffic and misuse. But there's loads of climbing there so it's easy to avoid the crowds and we met some great people there too.
Landings can be bad and getting around can be a pain because of the terrain. But most of the awkward landings have been sanitised. We only took one or two pads each and I can't remember walking away from any problems due to the landing.
But the great thing about Magic Wood is the huge concentration of great climbs across the grades. Wherever you go, you're never more than about a 1 minute walk from a classic climb in the 6s, 7s and 8s.
You don't need a car once you're there and it's such an easy place to go for a mixed ability group.
Agreed, such a high concentration of stunners is insane.
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Just my thinking, a sorry read indeed, 'Classics I found harder than I wanted them to be'. Anyone slagging NTBTA needs to stick to their shitty eliminate cave they presumably prefer. And don't get me started on the irony of not liking Deliverance because its popular.
Do people really get annoyed with opinions which differ from their own nowdays? Well I never!
Possible correlation with "Stanage and Burbage Blocs that showpony laps weekly" and "Meritricious and bogus bloc entries that showpony is outraged by their inclusion on the list" :lol: