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the shizzle => sponsors => Topic started by: shark on July 30, 2012, 10:27:47 am

Title: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 10:27:47 am: In collaboration with Paul at Crusher Holds over the last 9 months we've developed a light portable fingerboard good for warming up at the crag and the climbing wall or for training at home.

Cost is £35 including P&P (UK delivery) and should be up on the Crusher shop by the end of this week.

In the meantime here's an intro....

The Wedge on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/46225313)

(Paul doesn't let me get a word in edgeways)
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: abarro81 on July 30, 2012, 10:44:20 am: Intrigued by the 2-sided design. Looks nice and small for putting in a bag to take to the crag.. look forward to testing yours at malham sometime.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 10:49:11 am: Quote from: abarro81 on July 30, 2012, 10:44:20 am
Intrigued by the 2-sided design. Looks nice and small for putting in a bag to take to the crag.. look forward to testing yours at malham sometime.

It feels like a more natural and comfortable way to hang compared to conventional fingerboards as your arms aren't twisted.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2012, 10:59:32 am: Fingeborads at the crag; is this the thin end of the wedge?
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am: Not listened to video as I'm in the office.
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You have two spare blank sides you could stick some extra holds on (pockets maybe).

Looks interesting.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: andy_e on July 30, 2012, 11:09:52 am: Quote from: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You want one of these then:

(http://bulatov.org/images/metal/dodecahedron_2_a_500.jpg)
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Paul B on July 30, 2012, 11:12:51 am: the real question is Shark...

...what does EVA think of your wedge?
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:16:16 am: Looks l
Quote from: andi_e on July 30, 2012, 11:09:52 am
Quote from: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You want one of these then:

(http://bulatov.org/images/metal/dodecahedron_2_a_500.jpg)

Looks like something Randall would train on.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 11:22:29 am: Quote from: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am
Not listened to video as I'm in the office.
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You have two spare blank sides you could stick some extra holds on (pockets maybe).

Looks interesting.

Good thought in principle but it would have to be for a "maxi" model as the lump of wood would have to be wider to accommodate more holds especially deep pockets.

Another use for those staying at hotels travelling with work or on enforced non-climbing holidays is to attach it to a lat pull down machine in the hotel gym.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 11:25:18 am: Quote from: Paul B on July 30, 2012, 11:12:51 am
the real question is Shark...

...what does EVA think of your wedge?

I'd be gutted if she thought it was crap
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Fiend on July 30, 2012, 11:30:20 am: Well that looks pretty funky and well designed :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: dave on July 30, 2012, 11:31:09 am: can you crimp those slots?
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 11:52:15 am: Quote from: dave on July 30, 2012, 11:31:09 am
can you crimp those slots?

You can full crimp all except the deepest (second joint) slot
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Fiend on July 30, 2012, 12:38:42 pm: Wait....you have a 2nd joint slot?? What is this, training for VSes?? :ohmy: :P
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 12:43:39 pm: Quote from: Fiend on July 30, 2012, 12:38:42 pm
Wait....you have a 2nd joint slot?? What is this, training for VSes?? :ohmy: :P

They are for warming up, weighted hangs, one arm pull-ups and smuggling drugs
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Three Nine on July 30, 2012, 01:55:25 pm: Can you bring one down the foundry?
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 02:10:46 pm: Quote from: Three Nine on July 30, 2012, 01:55:25 pm
Can you bring one down the foundry?

I've got one on its way in the post for you. I'll get in touch when it arrives and bring it down.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Three Nine on July 30, 2012, 02:30:26 pm: Kick ass.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm: Think this is a great idea for warming up. Seen small fingerboards people use for warming up before but tends to rely on two points of attatchment which means they're very limited.

Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position. Havnt tried it for one armed hangs so obviously cant comment but wonder what it's like stability wise? Does it roll at all if using it just one side?
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: tomtom on July 30, 2012, 04:29:57 pm: Erm, doesnt Dense use something similar?

Aside from a small dark cloud hanging over part of the crag, a mini-fingerboard hanging from a tree usually signfies his precence... ;)
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on July 30, 2012, 04:35:15 pm: Quote from: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm
Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position. Havnt tried it for one armed hangs so obviously cant comment but wonder what it's like stability wise? Does it roll at all if using it just one side?

Its what I've been using for the last few weeks for my weighted hangs with superb results and before that on a prototype for a 90 hang workout which included alternated finger combinations, repeaters, encores and maximal hangs.

Before that I also did assisted one armers on an edge with foot in an etrier on a pulley and counterweight set up which gave enough stability.

However, I agree for unassisted one arm hangs and pull-ups on the smaller slots it will be ~~pants~~ limited.

If you think about it in one handed work on a fixed board you would tend towards the same side-on position as you would hanging on the Wedge with two hands.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Serpico on July 30, 2012, 04:35:34 pm: Quote from: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm
Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position.

And yet in your own avatar your right hand and arm is in that exact position. Lots of climbing moves involve twisting in which puts the hand and arm in that position, and for pure finger training it doesn't matter too much where the arm is in relation to the body.
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: Paul B on July 30, 2012, 04:37:08 pm: Quote from: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm
Think this is a great idea for warming up. Seen small fingerboards people use for warming up before but tends to rely on two points of attatchment which means they're very limited.

Really? All the instances I've seen have been equalised to a single point of attachment. Its been quite amusing watching incompetent clipstickers put these in the first bolt of routes and then look absolutely stumped when it comes to getting them back at the end of the day!
Title: Re: Coming very soon..."The Wedge"
Post by: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 05:58:05 pm: Quote from: Serpico on July 30, 2012, 04:35:34 pm
And yet in your own avatar your right hand and arm is in that exact position. Lots of climbing moves involve twisting in which puts the hand and arm in that position, and for pure finger training it doesn't matter too much where the arm is in relation to the body.

I can see your point for finger training although i still think the 'squeezing' action you will get using two hands will alter training effects. I was more talking about the pull-ups side as shown in parts of the video. Just think it is significantly rarer to find this two hands facing and close together position rather than the standard straight on position of a normal board.

I'm in no way saying I dont think it's a worthwhile product it's just that personally I see its main advantages as a easy, portable warm up tool.
Title: Now available..."The Wedge"
Post by: Probes on August 15, 2012, 01:41:24 pm: The Wedge is now available to purchase from the webshop...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/the-wedge-1 (http://crusherholds.co.uk/the-wedge-1)
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Carnage on August 21, 2012, 03:08:03 am: I want one! But can you send it to Oz for me? Your site only appears to offer shipping to the UK. We have some funny rules about getting wood into the country but my beastmaker got here so it should be fine.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on August 21, 2012, 11:23:06 am: Quote from: Carnage on August 21, 2012, 03:08:03 am
We have some funny rules about getting wood...
Giggle :lol:
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Nibile on August 21, 2012, 12:38:18 pm: It may seem a bit strange to have such strict regulations, but if we had the same rules here in Italy now we wouldn't have our chestnuts forest plagued by parasites imported from China with chinese chestnuts...
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2012, 12:49:16 pm: And the UK wouldn't have suffered with Dutch Elm Disease?
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: tomtom on August 21, 2012, 01:07:41 pm: Quote from: Obi-Wan is lost... on August 21, 2012, 11:23:06 am
Quote from: Carnage on August 21, 2012, 03:08:03 am
We have some funny rules about getting wood...
Giggle :lol:

We're all rooting for you being able to get wood Carnage ;)
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: andy_e on August 21, 2012, 01:15:12 pm: Hope you're barking up the right tree with that statement TomTom...
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2012, 01:31:02 pm: Carry on you two

(cursor hovers over "punter" button)
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Probes on August 21, 2012, 02:06:42 pm: Quote from: Carnage on August 21, 2012, 03:08:03 am
I want one! But can you send it to Oz for me? Your site only appears to offer shipping to the UK. We have some funny rules about getting wood into the country but my beastmaker got here so it should be fine.

Leaf it to me, it wood be a great pleasure to send you one.

Ill get you an Oz shipping price n pm you.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: tomtom on August 21, 2012, 02:41:08 pm: Quote from: SA Chris on August 21, 2012, 01:31:02 pm
Carry on you two

(cursor hovers over "punter" button)

I didnt meant to keep the arboreal pun stream going with root - the joke was based around root having different meaning in Australian parlance... ;)

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070930012847AAfQ0dB (http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070930012847AAfQ0dB)
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Moo on August 21, 2012, 02:52:57 pm: If I'm gonna spend my hard earned cash on a wedge I think I'd rather head down this alley (innuendo intended)

NSFW

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3V8cRdlSXLQ (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3V8cRdlSXLQ)
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: JohnM on August 21, 2012, 02:54:19 pm: Yeah these puns aren't very arborealiginal!
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: andy_e on August 21, 2012, 03:35:48 pm: TomTom, take a bough.

That pun was tenuous, John. It's sapping me just thinking about how bad a joak it was.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Fultonius on August 21, 2012, 06:30:22 pm: Oakay, oakay I think we've had just abought enough of this.

Jarrah! you say, as you are pineing for more!

Puns like this are a bit thins on the ground though....
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Carnage on August 21, 2012, 11:45:35 pm: Haha - :clap2:

Wattle have I started?

I knew my choice of words wood generate the odd chuckle but I'd forgotten how much you guys like to run with these things and poak fun.

Anyways - Cheers Probes. I haven't rested on my laurels and I've PM'd you.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on August 22, 2012, 11:40:39 am: I've just received a consignment of sven Wedges from darkest Lancashire.

If anyone wants a fondle and a hang let me know and I'll bob down the Foundry this evening.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: andy_e on August 22, 2012, 11:42:24 am: Quote from: shark on August 22, 2012, 11:40:39 am
Sven Wedges

Is he that Swedish beast living in Darwen?
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on August 22, 2012, 11:50:40 am: Quote from: andi_e on August 22, 2012, 11:42:24 am
Quote from: shark on August 22, 2012, 11:40:39 am
Sven Wedges

Is he that Swedish beast living in Darwen?

He's currently holed up in a cellar and claiming diplomatic immunity
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: andy_e on August 22, 2012, 11:53:16 am: Is he being force-fed chip barms and Benedictine by his host?
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: Probes on August 23, 2012, 03:14:24 pm: my host was keen to keep you all in the loop, here's the latest from life in the cellar... chip barms & benedictine :thumbsup:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/376925_10151020476726139_1881877391_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on August 23, 2012, 10:55:07 pm: Our top salesman sees an opportunity to sell a wedge to a punter at raven tor. Let's see how he gets on....

Episode 1. Selling the Wedge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kK8EdG9USo#ws)
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: peewee on August 24, 2012, 12:25:26 am: Quote from: Probes on August 23, 2012, 03:14:24 pm
my host was keen to keep you all in the loop, here's the latest from life in the cellar... chip barms & benedictine :thumbsup:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/376925_10151020476726139_1881877391_n.jpg)

When did you decorate the cellar?
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on September 02, 2012, 07:17:33 pm: I've found that the best way to hang the Wedge from a bolt is using a shortish piece of old rope with a krab at the end which is taped open so its easier to retrieve at the end of the day.

The Wedge can be attached to a clovehitched krab towards the other end of the rope so the height it hangs from can be adjusted.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: miso soup on March 29, 2017, 10:53:37 am: Are these still available?
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on March 29, 2017, 11:12:51 am: Quote from: miso soup on March 29, 2017, 10:53:37 am
Are these still available?

I could probably sort you one but frankly there are better products now available
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: miso soup on March 29, 2017, 11:27:14 am: What are these better products? The Wedge looks nice and small and easily portable, Patxi's thing is too big.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: James Malloch on March 29, 2017, 11:55:40 am: I've just gone for a Problem Solver which seems like a good option. The Hanzo is reasonably small.

Shark - just realised I never replied to your PM regarding the Wedge around Christmas. I was ill at the time and completely forgot (until now). Apologies.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: standard on March 29, 2017, 11:59:27 am: http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboards/crusher-mission-portable-hangboard-fingerboard
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: miso soup on March 29, 2017, 01:20:28 pm: Thanks for the suggestions, but I still actually like the look of the Wedge more. I want it for warming up at the crag rather than as an actual training tool so mainly looking for something small that's doesn't take up too much room in a bag, can't be arsed lugging a whole fingerboard around. Shark, if you cannot recommend something better than your product then I would like to order one please.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on March 29, 2017, 01:31:06 pm: Quote from: miso soup on March 29, 2017, 01:20:28 pm
Thanks for the suggestions, but I still actually like the look of the Wedge more. I want it for warming up at the crag rather than as an actual training tool so mainly looking for something small that's doesn't take up too much room in a bag, can't be arsed lugging a whole fingerboard around. Shark, if you cannot recommend something better than your product then I would like to order one please.

Do you live in Sheffield or likely to be in the Peak in the near future?
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: miso soup on March 29, 2017, 01:39:41 pm: I live in Glasgow, some chance of being in the Peak at the weekend but not if the current forecast persists. Happy to pay postage.
Title: Re: Now available ..."The Wedge"
Post by: shark on March 29, 2017, 05:19:09 pm: Ill pm you my mobile in case you come down but if not I'll post it to you next week