UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on June 09, 2019, 07:31:35 pm
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11.1-3 Average 156.5 down 0.5lb
M Tor. Breezy, fresh. Nice change from weekend humidity. Met Rob G there. He’s stressed about imminent fatherhood Go 1 Broke shoe lace. Bad karma. Didn’t get to kneebar Go 2 failed on kick Go 3 Got to second kneebar and was feeling good but foot slipped off shortly after on drop to mono Go 4 Got to first kneebar then realised I’d forgotten to put kneepad on :slap: Go 5 failed to get to first kneebar. Disappointing session. Lost the drive. Decided to take a break from it for a couple of weeks. Gutting as desperate to get a decent tick under my belt.
Eve Bodyweight Duration hangs on ergo edge. Remarkable progress. Have to start adding weight. Held some undercut 90deg locks on the board.
T.
W. Feeling meh. Original plan was to meet Nick at the Tor but he got lured down to Chee Tor again. Might have stayed at home if conditions weren’t so good. Drove out with dogs undecided what to do and ended up going to Crag X. No internet. No people. Joy. Warmed up and then sent Jericho Road first go like a fucking boss. - just what the dr ordered. Go 1 on Moff did first 7 moves Go 2 First 10 moves falling off going for intermediate crimp on JR.
FB Duration hangs on Ergo Edge
T
F Am Crag X. Bit greasy and got worse when rain came in. Best go was doing first 8 moves of Moffatrocity . Grim walk out.
FB Duration hangs on ergo edge
S Systems Board short sess mainly holding front3 90degree undercut locks
S FB Duration hangs on ergo edge - great progress
Good to take a short break from Ben’s. Pretty pleased boshing out Jericho as it’s still my hardest lime up problem. Paul keen for Malham on tues so going to take a chance on Oak being dry
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Tuesday - Hollywood Bowl. Dogged up Sunset Boulevard. Then a poor redpoint attempt falling off at first crux as I forgot the sequence. Then another redpoint go falling at the top bulge. Felt tough but looking forward to going back.
Sunday - Millstone. Bond Street, Great Portland Street, The Mall, Billingsgate and, the highlight, Time For Tea. I'd wanted to do that for years and it didn't disappoint. Tricky crack then steady runout.
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Frustrating week, been mostly stuck at home without transport
M - blagged wife's car PM, didn't have long so nipped out to Higgar. Obviously far too warm and humid, not as shady as hoped but sheltered from the gale. Plan was to keep moving do try a load of problems, see if I can get the floooow back. Did Piss easily enough but didn't do Mick's problem, The Arete, Quintessential Higgarisms or Mermaid (despite being soooo close) over at Burbage Bridge, which are all 7A/+ so can only assume that Piss is actually only 6C/+.
LI Core
T hour mtb ride.
W - fingerboard. Kept it short as heading out Thursday.
LI Core
Th - needed car to pick up daughter from a school comp, luckily near Anston so headed to Apprentice and Frodo. Same plan as Monday, slightly more successful, managed 4 out of 7 attempted.
F LI Core and legs.
Got the van back and had an all day pass or Saturday :boxing:
S -
a household issue ate up the morning til beyond lunchtime :furious: Weather was filthy, couldn't face the possible frustration of trawling around wet crags so stayed home to train.
Great angry/frustrated board session, only worked two problems but both pleasingly burly whole body wobblers that involved trying really hard and power grunts. Done in after a hour and felt so much better for it.
HI core, first time for 2 weeks but felt really strong, did my best front levers ever.
Shoulders.
S nowt
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STG: Don’t get injured. Get on some E3s and E4s. ✅
MTG: a classic sea cliff E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.
M - Pembroke - see last entry.
T - Pull-ups. Shoulder strength (IsYsTs, planks, push-ups).
W - Westway. Short endurance (~2mins.) circuits x 8. Shoulder strength.
T - Hip stretches
F - Travelled to Fairhead. Pissing wet!
S - Fairhead. ‘Warmed-up’ on Titanic (E2 5c). Didn’t bring the recommended number 5 cam :slap: got into a bit of a battle, and fell out of a hand jam for the first time in decades :'(. Did Aoife (E2 5b) with rather less trouble. Rained.
S - Conchubair (E2 5c, magnificent), Blind Pew (E2 5b) and Ocean Boulevard (E3 5c or about 5.11a, excellent tight hands if you don’t cheat and crimp!). Bumped into Calvin and Claire at the top of Conchubair, last time I met them was in 1981, really nice to catch up. Light showers.
M - Hell’s Kitchen (HVS) in the morning. Rain stopped further play but was feeling quite tired in any case.
T - Early start to do The Black Thief (VS) and Marconi (E3) before the rain arrived. Flight delayed of course and didn’t get home til 3am.
W - 6 pull-ups. A new record for the 21st century! :strongbench:
T - Westway: Short endurance (~2mins.) routes ~6c/7a x 8.
F - Birthday. I felt very old.
S - Shoulder strength. Hip stretches.
S - Westway: Short endurance (~2mins.) routes ~6c/7a x 8. Shoulder stuff.
Fairhead is amazing, one of a very few world-class climbing areas in the British Isles. If you climb E1 or up you should just go. Calvin told me of an Irish climber visiting N. Wales for the first time who made it to the legendary Cloggy only to think ‘is that it?!’ I know what he means...
The weather wasn’t brilliant but better than forecast, many routes dry in minutes, and we managed to climb every day bar the evening we arrived. Wasn’t feeling very confident in myself so didn’t try anything hard but lovely to do some great classics and (from a power club perspective) kept building the E3 base.
Plan: keep filling the hole between bouldering and shuffling. Long weekend of trad.
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Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.
M - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU. TCA, repeated a few yellows including hardest one first go, then worked the wood on the mothership. Did hardest move (5th) from the start for the first time, but couldn't swing feet back round to carry on. Linked doing this move to the middle a couple of times.
T - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU. TCA, Max hangs, 6x10s +25kg, lattice edge. Much better form than last time on the bm2000.
W - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU. easy bouldering 1hr.
T - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU. setting and forerunning a circuit at tca, approx 7c+ power endurance
F - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU. Few reps on my new circuit, managed it once.
S - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU. Cheddar, wave first, 3 laps on 7a+ while other half was working it, then remnant, did Everyday Lives of Ordinary People 7c 1st rp after dogging up and working out moves. Decent enough route with fun boulder low down, but mostly pleased as I've wanted to do it for the name for ages. Then night shift.
S - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU. Nights.
Av 70.5kg.
Decent week, but not much time left before SA
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That’s an optimistic thread title Shark. From my week I’d have been tempted to called it ‘going through the motions club’ :D
M: Lees Bottom with Dolly. First trip there - great wee spot. There was quite a lot of low seepage (I get the impression it takes a while to dry out fully) and we spent ages (me more) working the 6C+ up through the middle. Wet start holds meant the start was more contrived than what would usually go as the start... The cool looking 7A+ to the left was also wet/damp on the lower holds. The 7B+ on the left over the wall was in decent shape and after trying lots of different methods got tired. Left. Lots of compression moves.
We: Anston on the way back to Hull. Hopeless on Nazgul. Tired from Monday still... Moose - your beta might work for me...
And that was that for the week :( Childcare on thurs - then a wedding in London on Sat morning meant leaving with the family on Friday lunchtime and back on Sunday afternoon...
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Hopeless on Nazgul. Tired from Monday still... Moose - your beta might work for me...
... even a stopped clock is right twice a day...
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Hopeless on Nazgul. Tired from Monday still... Moose - your beta might work for me...
... even a stopped clock is right twice a day...
:D Well from stacked pads I got to the LH and RH pinches (its a harder move going to the LH pinch Than the LH slot for me)... the top hold feels like it would sit better in the LH whereas I’ve always been going for it with the right... I was really crap on Weds though... flat battery...
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M - Start the week with some steady benches. 90k for 3s, follow that up with some shoulder presses and back up to lifting 30s consistently so need to start slow working up the weight of the dumbbells. A quick incline/decline superset followed by some TRX for core and chest.
Steady lunchtime treadmill 5 and a good stretch to help with niggles.
Evening at the Depot. Campus session to start, where I was solid at my benchmarks. Need to start working a bit harder if I want to progress but might leave that until I retire and have a bit more time.
Solid project session. Quickly dispatched the first problem although couldn’t repeat it for the camera. Second problem was the mirror image of the first, but the moves felt like more of a battle and best I managed was all the moves and some decent links. Third problem was out in main room on the barrel. Solid links and just missing the top move. It will go, if it’s up a couple of weeks, otherwise......that’s life. Finish off ticking another yellow, so slowly creeping up.
T - Leg day. Be afraid, be very afraid. Steady day of triples at squat up to 120 and dead up to 130. Do find that one leg session every three weeks is enough for what I need, although I am guessing running up hills helps.
Evening trot in the pouring rain with Mrs B. Felt grim for first five minutes and great after that.
W- Pull day. More deadlifts to warm up followed by a wide range of rows, shrugs and pulls including a bit of TRX. Try and do some of the rows quickly to improve power if at all possible.
Evening board session at the Depot. Start with some Max Hangs between 101 and 95% which feels like a solid warm up. Then on to the 50 board where I work on a combination of fingery problems and bigger moves on better holds. A good workout finishing with tired arms.
T - Bit of a lay in and chill in the morning. Steady 5k at lunchtime.
Evening visit to the Depot. Get started on the summer comp problems and am happy with my efforts although fell off a harder one simply because I was rushing and not resting enough as was on a deadline.
Bit of weights on chest and shoulders at the end of the day with good solid form and nice slow movements.
F - Back to a pull day. Some rack pulls for triples up to 140 to warm up. Some OAP with body weight and some machine pull downs holding the fully locked position. Finish with some TRX in supine position.
S -Push day. Bench for doubles up to 100k. Did this without a spotter and never had any doubt about it, this demonstrates improvement, stupidity or I’m not trying hard enough but whichever, I was happy with the lift. Then declines for the same weights followed by some progressive dumbbell presses for 5 sets. Finish with a few flys. Later finally did the Bring Sally Up press up challenge which became a battle of just hanging in there.
S - Depot session for fun. Tick off a few more of the pinks. Lots of fun, some go easily, some take a bit more effort and one I have several goes at doing it with a bit more style, but every go is just scrappy and battling and first go is actually the best with later goes just being worse or not happening, target is to make it look graceful before the end off the month.
Mrs B fancies a session in the gym in the afternoon, so go and do a quick pull session. Deads to warm up as usual. I probably need to focus on a bit more weight sometime soon. A bit of heavy shrugs and rows. Move on to machine pull downs and gradually keep increasing the weight up to 85k per arm, always maintaining the slow negative. I have no real idea how this helps pulling up, but convinced it must somehow. Then do some one finger work on the machine with five sets at 60k. This then spurs me to give the pull up a go again and I manage my first one finger pull up in about thirteen years, scruffy but definitely a pull up. I wonder if I can work back up to being able to do them on every finger. (Never managed it on left hand pinky in the past)
Overall happy with the week and slowly building up with the odd little victory.
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Have to say I normally try to get in before Gollum to avoid highlighting the complete lack of effort / application on my part compared to his entries!
Goal: elusive final outdoor, new (to me) 7a
M: nowt - inset day cover for my daughter plus two of her cousins
T: nowt
W: Pudsey Depot after work for first time in ages - fancied a go at the new summer bouldering league thing, which I haven't properly entered since parenthood I think. Discovered that at the ripe old age of 40 I am now considered a veteran!
OK performance, but made a few elementary bad route reading / lack of experience with new holds errors.
T: nowt - planned gym session on lunch kyboshed by call from nursery saying youngest was ill
F: day at home with poorly two-year-old
S: nowt
S: nowt
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M - rest
T - Depot. Board session to start with; unsurprisingly off the pace. Did a few things and pleased to feel strong on the undercut problems I've had on there. Finished with some FOC; savage but effective.
W - rest.
T - Malham after work. Good conditions and felt strong warming up. Good first go getting a good handful of the tooth but sagged mid move and couldn't hold it; closest yet. Rushed next go which was poor. Had a good rest and a strong third go getting to the throw to the tooth again but powered out. Finished with some good links when very tired on the headwall. All good training.
F - rest.
S - rest.
S - Malham in the afternoon. First go up more of a recruitment go in the end; didn't get fingers right in third undercut. Hours rest, watched James Ibb smash through the boulder with a massive effort and had another go. Made it through the boulder for the first time and recovered in the kneebars for 6 minutes. Section to the bird hole went incredibly well which was a big plus; the hard move felt steady. Recovered in sharp jugs at bird hole for a few minutes and gunned to the undercut rest. Felt good and still quite relaxed but was definitely pumped by this stage. Felt recovered quite quickly after a few minutes and decided to crack on. Did hard heel move easily and right hand felt good on first small crimp. Hit first left hand crimp and had no power left. Closed the crimp with a big effort but all of a sudden had nothing left and was unable to move right hand onto the next crimp, which is the set up for the headwall crux move to another small crimp. Was off before I could process it, which left me with the feeling that I didn't try; but I had nothing left on the crimp so I know I did! Pulled back on and went to the top. Bittersweet; perhaps a missed opportunity not to engage turbo on the headwall and scream my way up it, but I'd have taken it at the start of the day. Great to get through the boulder for the first time and if I keep turning up I can definitely do it.
Another breakthrough week; very close! Back on Wednesday after work for a few redpoints. If no luck then will have to wait for a few weeks as I'm away on holiday. Not ideal timing but I'm on schedule for where I wanted to be at the start of the season and will be nice to get some sun. On another plus side, yesterdays RP effort has to be a new personal best for me as its probably 8b+ to the point I fell off.
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Have to say I normally try to get in before Gollum to avoid highlighting the complete lack of effort / application on my part compared to his entries!
:lol:
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Have to say I normally try to get in before Gollum to avoid highlighting the complete lack of effort / application on my part compared to his entries!
All I can say is wait until I retire from work in September and Mrs B needs me out of the house all day.
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S - Malham in the afternoon. First go up more of a recruitment go in the end; didn't get fingers right in third undercut. Hours rest, watched James Ibb smash through the boulder with a massive effort and had another go. Made it through the boulder for the first time and recovered in the kneebars for 6 minutes. Section to the bird hole went incredibly well which was a big plus; the hard move felt steady. Recovered in sharp jugs at bird hole for a few minutes and gunned to the undercut rest. Felt good and still quite relaxed but was definitely pumped by this stage. Felt recovered quite quickly after a few minutes and decided to crack on. Did hard heel move easily and right hand felt good on first small crimp. Hit first left hand crimp and had no power left. Closed the crimp with a big effort but all of a sudden had nothing left and was unable to move right hand onto the next crimp, which is the set up for the headwall crux move to another small crimp. Was off before I could process it, which left me with the feeling that I didn't try; but I had nothing left on the crimp so I know I did! Pulled back on and went to the top. Bittersweet; perhaps a missed opportunity not to engage turbo on the headwall and scream my way up it, but I'd have taken it at the start of the day. Great to get through the boulder for the first time and if I keep turning up I can definitely do it.
Another breakthrough week; very close! Back on Wednesday after work for a few redpoints. If no luck then will have to wait for a few weeks as I'm away on holiday. Not ideal timing but I'm on schedule for where I wanted to be at the start of the season and will be nice to get some sun. On another plus side, yesterdays RP effort has to be a new personal best for me as its probably 8b+ to the point I fell off.
Effort!
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M -
T- wall pm. doing/trying some normal problems for a while then experimenting with (and setting additional) easier ~30sec climb time problems on board. problem order, rest times and no. of reps and sets all still to be determined....
W -Ilkley. Not my venue choice, pretty good cons for June to be fair but poor skin. Just pottering really.
T- Board. Average
F- wanted to rest skin for weekend but feeling keen so did some sets of pull ups, leg raises off bar, pistols, press ups and stretching.
S- Finally retrieved car which involved reasonably long bike ride over yorkshire wolds on tired sparrow legs from yesterday's pistols. Had planned to climb pm but felt exhausted, had an afternoon sleep and ate loads
S- Stoupe Brow bouldering pm. Nice cons when wind was there - midge threatening when it wasn't. Felt good, did keyhole surgery and dark angel both first go which felt like good markers for going ok. Good links (best go fell on last move from start) on a project I'd tried previously and written off as too hard. looking forward to another go on it soon.
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Power Club
Mon - my first ever boxing class. Very cool. I was the only one concerned about hitting others... You can imagine the rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - BM front, mid, back2, 10"x10. Abs in between sets. Clean and press (10" static top position) 5x5. EMOM snatch pulls 5x10.
Thu - speed bag warm up; static/dynamic pull ups 3x4; farmer's walk 30/30 x5 (70%); overhead barbell walk 30/30 x5; snatch pulls 5x5 EMOM; shrughs 5x5 EMOM. Maybe something else. I must have had a good snack before!
Fri - boxing bag, weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun - yoke complex 5x5 brutal. Pull ups/front lever pulls. Overhead press. Abs. Very hot.
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STG - More volume: Climb 10 routes 7a-7c+ by end June (3/10). Getting volume in, but not the ticks.
Maintain weight ~74kg
MTG - Zinc Oxide Mountain.
Climb more at Cheddar.
Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn.
LTG - 7C
M - Rest
T - Spa with wife. Lots of rest.
W - Max hangs
Pull ups to warm up
5x0kgx2
5x6kg
5x10kg
BM 2000 bottom crimps 10 seconds
0kg
10kg
15kg
25kg
30kg
25kg (8 seconds)
25kg (9 seconds)
20kg
10 press-ups
7 diamond press-ups
Not the best...
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Weighted pull ups
0x5
6kgx5
10kgx5
30kgx5
35kgx5
45kgx2
45kgx2
10 diamonds push ups
30kgx5
Felt pretty good.
S - Core on pull up bar. Bit of one arm work, partial one arm with some upward movement plus negatives.
S - Rest
Week off mostly focused on moving house and admin surrounding that.
Drank a lot and feel exhausted today because of it. Still struggle with moderation. Usually off, but still find it too easy to fall into the trap of overdoing it with even a little. Particularly if I have a stretch of time off.
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LTG - 7C
.....
BM 2000 bottom crimps 10 seconds
0kg
10kg
15kg
25kg
30kg
25kg (8 seconds)
25kg (9 seconds)
20kg
That’s well strong enough for 7C :boxing:
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LTG - 7C
.....
BM 2000 bottom crimps 10 seconds
0kg
10kg
15kg
25kg
30kg
25kg (8 seconds)
25kg (9 seconds)
20kg
That’s well strong enough for 7C :boxing:
Ah maybe I need to climb better!
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M - nothing I can remember, maybe bit of stretching.
T - nowt
W - in spite of improving forecast, still pissing down, wall session. Tied in for the first time in about 3 years. Toproped a couple of 6bs, led a 6b, tried to toprope 6c, failed, toproped a steeper 6b, failed on a fingery 6c. Bouldered a bit.
T - conditioning excercises.
F - not much
S - wall session. Felt OK. Managed 2 probs on 45 i have been failing on. Cub camp, bed too late
S - up too early. more cub camp. Running workshop in evening.
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Come on Spidermonkey!
Rehab Diaries Week Forty-two
STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (16/26 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.
M- Stanage Plantation after work to quickly tick off Count’s Crack, the only remaining route on my list from the Eastern Edges. With a strong wind blowing though it was absolutely freezing in that corner- rock still felt glassy even after my warm-up and belayer got Reynaud’s in her fingers! Climbed CC ‘til the start of what appears to be the crux but wasn’t feeling it at all so reversed to come back and do it in more pleasant conditions.
T- Rest.
W- Gym, bike. Standard 30 minutes, standard increase of 1 on all the levels. Up to L25 for the middle 5 minutes now which is what I previously thought was the highest setting- a quick investigation revealed that it’s at least 30 which is good as I still have strength to gain and this seems to be the most effective method.
T- Popped up to Stanage Popular and soloed one Diff. Took about fifteen minutes including sitting on the grass for a bit- 364 days earlier I came up here with my American mates and it took my longer than that to reach the crag and I had to spend most of the time there lying on the ground trying to stop my back hurting.
F- Foundry autobelays. Wore weight belt but it felt a bit weird- I trimmed the belt to length when I was a few kilos lighter than now and although I climbed with it for a while (warm-up was 5+ and I came close to flashing a 6b+ which is pretty much the level I was climbing at before I started climbing with the belt :strongbench: ) after drinking some water the strap wasn’t through the first weight (which is my backup for the buckle) any more so I ditched it- absolutely no way I’m going to risk dropping a 5kg weight on anyone! I need to get a new belt for it and be far more prudent with how much extra I leave when I trim it.
Anyway, climbed without it for the first time in ages which was cool as I just got on one of the hardest autobelay routes (7a)- got four moves from the top onsight so very pleased, even though I couldn’t get any higher on subsequent attempts!
S- Off to North Wales for big easy mountain routes trip me and my mate have been talking about for about a year- I haven’t been bothered about this type of climbing for a long time but for various reasons I got it back in the last year.
Delayed setting off by a day due to shit weather and it pissed it down the whole drive but arrived in Llanberis just as it stopped mid-afternoon and went for a walk in the pass for a bit.
S- Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit. We each climbed with a (small) rucksack on all day but we didn’t do it in big mountaineering boots or anything like that. I’d hoped we’d blast through it in really good time but this wasn’t ever really going to happen as my partner is far more concerned with things like sitting down and eating sandwiches between routes, placing gear at sensible/ overly cautious intervals, recoiling ropes for inexplicable reasons in the car park before you even start etc. than that sort of thing. :lol:
I didn’t enjoy Hope as much as I could have due to intermittent light rain, large sections of it being wet and arriving two minutes after another party who wanted to do it meaning we had to wait for them quite a bit but after that things improved and ending the day on Central Arête in particular was amazing (https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=225736).
M- Dinas Cromlech. My first visit to this crag :look: and although we did Flying Buttress (VDiff) rather than the routes you’re more likely to associate with it it was still great in ideal weather. It’s 6 pitches in the book and although we did it in fewer it still felt very casual after the previous day- bodes well for climbing more ambitious mountain routes soon.
This was marred by watching the tragic drama of a sheep getting hit by a van by the boulders from the approach slog. I feel like a right miserable old man when I moan about people not keeping their dogs on leads in the countryside but this was a sad example of why it pisses me off. :no:
Wicked weekend and a pretty full eight days now I come to type it up- the date we planned to go to the mountains seems to have coincided with bad weather closer to home so ideal timing. Didn’t struggle with any of the physical demands of the trip (I’m already fitter than my mate again!) so massive rehab pride/ smugness/ relief. ;D
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Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit. We each climbed with a (small) rucksack on all day but we didn’t do it in big mountaineering boots or anything like that. I’d hoped we’d blast through it in really good time but this wasn’t ever really going to happen as my partner is far more concerned with things like sitting down and eating sandwiches between routes, placing gear at sensible/ overly cautious intervals, recoiling ropes for inexplicable reasons in the car park before you even start etc. than that sort of thing.
Fantastic! Just about the best day you can have out in the Welsh hills (and so much potential for different combinations). And sitting down eating sandwiches etc. seems like it should be an integral part of an Idwal integrale.
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That sounds like a great day Cheque!
T: Hotel Gym. 20 mins on cycle machine then stretching and some core
S: Vail Mountain Games. Good fun walking round and spectating. Highlights were dog races, freebies and watching Janja complete her clean-sweep!
S: CorePower Hot Yoga. 102F. Never sweated so much in my life, yoga mat was squelching underfoot by the end of it. Grim.
Going to start loading the finger this weekend I think, following this site's recommendation of two fingers weight off: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/pulley-injuries-explained-part-2/ Can anyone offer a review / advice on that as I'd have though slowly reloading all four fingers might be less intense than hanging on two?
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S- Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit.
Awesome, been wanting to do this and Main Wall -> Gambit Climb - >Reades Route but manage to keep never getting round to them
Flying Butress is great too
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S- Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit.
Awesome, been wanting to do this and Main Wall -> Gambit Climb - >Reades Route but manage to keep never getting round to them
I never got round to the Cwm Glas one either but Idwal is fantastic and can be topped off with something on Clogwyn Du - Manx Wall, or Hebenwi if you're doing a harder link-up. I love integrales, that or using non-standard approaches to a crag - I once got to Demetreus by walking from Beris village, made for a really great day out.
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S- Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit.
Awesome, been wanting to do this and Main Wall -> Gambit Climb - >Reades Route but manage to keep never getting round to them
Done similar finishing up (swimming up - it was soaking) Grey Slab. Also a great combo and classic rock tick.
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Power Club
Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, Still 74.8 kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)
This week was a planned Finger Strength week so more rest days than usual
M - Finger Board Max Hangs session - 6 sets of 10 second one arm 20mm edge hangs on each arm with 12 kg assistance (90% of 1rm). now I've switched to wooden holds I have to put in a lot more effort to grip due to the reduction in friction.
T - Rest
W - Rained again so climbed at Lancaster Uni Wall small but pleasantly surprised enjoyed the set
T - Rest
F - Another Finger Board Max Hangs session - 6 sets of 10 second one arm 20mm edge hangs on each arm with 12 kg assistance (90% of 1rm).
S - Rest
S - Rest at a wedding but still knackered