UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: cheque on December 30, 2018, 11:31:24 am
-
It’s that time again.
Aims for 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8416)
Aims for 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10711)
Aims for 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13192)
Aims for 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685)
Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228)
Aims for 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21363.0.html)
Aims for 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23430.0.html)
Aims for 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25121.0.html)
Aims for 2016 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26617.0.html)
Aims for 2017 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27706.0.html)
Aims for 2018 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28583.0.html)
-
7C.
My new problem grade pyramid has consistently had a few 7B+’s in it for the last 2-3 years so it’s about time I worked something harder. Liked the look of Tetris - so that’s one option... Colt at Brownstones another that I’ve been close on - otherwise I’ll keep fishing for the easiest date in town :) what’s in a number eh? :D
Other aims:
Grit: Blind Date, The Rib, Fire Wall.
Lime: Ovine I suppose, maybe put some more effort into Advanced Training.
Go to North Wales more - only went once last year despite guidebook psyche.
Maybe decide to do something different with my life work wise if it gets much shitter where I am.
Right. Toddler is awake. Father duties await :)
-
Thanks Cheque.
Sport: 8a+ - Have chosen GBH, think the moves suit me and have the beta, will see how it goes with travelling and psyche.
Boulder: 7B+/C - I’ve not bouldered harder than 7B and I think this is holding me back on the harder Peak Lime routes.
Trad: Good mileage on E3 and E4 - a long weekend ticking the mid-grade classics at Pembroke, the Pass and Gogarth. Feel safe, get the love back. Try boat to Naxos on a top-rope if Ram goes back on his route.
DWS: Mark of The Beast, Wizard of Oz Traverse with dinghy party & attempt new route.
Belaying: 9a belay (current best 8c+). Also, as a long-shot, belay Simon on a season PB on the Oak.
Other: Buy house, get Job, free Murciana ‘78 on the Bulnes.
Good luck and Happy New Year UKB, still providing the goods. Thread of year = Poo-gate
-
1. Move south
2. Climb / travel more
3. Keep healing / improve health
Fucking rivetting eh.
-
Good one Cheque reminded me to write up my 2018.
TT - good luck with those goals. Message me if you ever want to session Beginners. Best crag in the peak imo.
2019 Goals
The unfinished business ticklist.
About time I made some serious headway into getting through this pile:
Conan the Lib (6B)
Nicotine Stain (6B)
Technical Master (6B)
NTBTA (6C)
Repeat Sidetrack Strict regularly (7A)
Early Doors & repeat Gorilla (7A)
Bad Lip (7A)
Kidneystone, Soft on G, Mark's roof (all 7B and within shouting distance)
Piss (7B)
Zippy's Traverse without shoes (7B)
Other goals
Crush hard at the Bowderstone in July.
Climb my first 7B+
Repeat AT, find some other low hanging 7C to get stuck into but not sure what yet. Suggestions welcome. Is Tarantula @ Nuda's with toe hooks supposed to be soft? Any of the ones on Paint it Black?
Try to climb new places or at least new problems at old places at least once a month.
The usual non-climbing goals
Lose the Christmas weight and keep it off.
Kettlebells Simple standard.
Run consistently.
Try not to lose the plot and remember that it's all a bit of a laugh and doesn't matter anyway.
-
1. Climb a real™ 8b+. Don't care if it would be "No War" in Saint-Antonin or "Tennessee" in Gorges du Tarn (even if they are both 8b in the respective guide books).
2. Onsight a real™ 8a. I'm pretty sure that I've only done guide-book 8as onsight. A real one would be well satisfying. If I manage goal 1, goal 2 should be fairly easy.
-
Any of the ones on Paint it Black?
I think PiB is the best peak lime problem I've done, and deffo a worthy project. I think conditions can be weird though?
-
That’ll be the one then. Thanks teestub.
-
Repeat AT, find some other low hanging 7C to get stuck into but not sure what yet. Suggestions welcome. Is Tarantula @ Nuda's with toe hooks supposed to be soft?
Conditions can be a bit weird on it. It seems to be greasy/damp even when the rest of the crag is mint. I felt close to it after spending the end of 2 sessions on it despite the grease which probably means it's soft but I kept firing off holds without warning so I wasn't psyched to go back.
-
My aims for 2019 are essentially a lightly edited version of last year's, which to be honest sums up the inertia of the last few years! On the one hand, I have the sunny outlook of a satellite in a slowly decaying orbit, spiraling gradually towards disintegration; on the other hand, I am mildly relieved that I am not (yet) getting significantly worse, despite age and a questionable attitude to food and alcohol. Anyhow, enough self-pitying musings,
[1] Enjoy Siurana (and Margalef / Arboli etc) in January / February. I hope to tick a few nice F7 classics and regain some fitness lost during 4 months of (largely indoor) bouldering. But I will be happy to just see some sun and recover a little mojo after a long wet winter and a tricky few months of work.
[2] Boulder outdoors a few times before the routes season begins. Various 7s on Yorkshire grit and Big Marine at C-y-L are ever-presents on the tick list. I would also like to visit a few further afield crags during work trips (Northumbria and the Peak especially), though that is beyond my control.
[3] Spring & Autumn: get on a new Malham project, as I've lost all enthusiasm for Predator. Perhaps try Well Dunne Finish (trying to relearn Zoolook could be a good way to regain fitness), or maybe get on the Groove.
[4] Summer: get on a new 8a+/b Kilnsey project, I've not done Bullet, Full Tilt, Ecstasy, Vanilla Path, or the Ripper but none of them currently fill me with any great enthusiasm; hopefully a candidate will emerge (any suggestions welcome).
[5] Visit non Malham or Kilnsey crags; I had good sessions at Hollywood Bowl and Gordale last year. That again plus re-visiting Chapel Head Scar and some Peak lime would do nicely.
[6] Maintain midweek training efforts: hangboard, woodie sessions, TRX.
"Life"
[1] Less booze; eat better [insert maniacal laughter gif].
[2] Less aimless web browsing: be more efficient at work (less needless long evenings in the office), read more at home [insert gif of man repeatedly headbutting a wall].
[3] Don't let work get on top of me [insert gif of a semi-nude Harvey Keitel in the Bad Lieutenant swigging vodka and weeping].
-
I have the sunny outlook of a satellite in a slowly decaying orbit, spiraling gradually towards disintegration;
Priceless.
I want that on a ukb t shirt. 👍👍
-
Men over 40 should not wear tee shirts with slogans.
-
Men over 40 should not wear tee shirts with slogans.
That’s Genius. Sheer fucking genius Webbo.
I’m gonna get those words printed on a T shirt tomorrow.
-
"Slogans"? My distilled wisdom is not a matter of salesman's gimmicks; lapidary epigrams are the trade!
-
free Murciana ‘78 on the Bulnes.
A fine aim.
-
Well after pretty much a twelve year lay off, with a short return six years ago, I am now properly back on it and going into my second year boulder again, so in no particular order, except the first one, I should record my goals so I can be pilloried when I fail to achieve them. I make no apologies that some goals are simply maintaining current levels or getting back to previous levels but definitely time is against me.
Still be bouldering this time next year, not having let life get in the way.
Get solid on the Campus Board at 1-4-7 on small holds and 1-5-8 on the large and medium holds or even 1-5-8.5 if going well.
Hang bodyweight on Lattice Rung by March and plus 5 kilos on each arm by end of year.
Hang bodyweight on BM2K small edges on each arm.
Sort left shoulder out so that I can get OAP plus 5 kilo on left arm as well as on right.
Crack 8A again on Yorkshire Grit with Zoo York being a likely candidate of something that I haven’t done before.
Have another crack at Cherry Falls forgetting about the dozens of sessions that I spent not doing out twelve years ago.
Get back on the Bowderstone and repeat the classics that I’ve done before, specifically Inaudible Vaudeville, Grand Opera and Improper Opera.
Get up to Kentmere and try Tourniquet.
Climb in Parisella’s or elsewhere in North Wales at least twice in the year.
Get onto Peak Lime bouldering with sessions at Rubicon and Tor as a minimum. Do things I haven’t done before at both of 7C or harder.
Get familiar with some of the harder stuff on the Depot 50 Board. Being able to do all/some/any of the moves on Lobster Claw would be good.
Move house, build a board to rival my old one.
Find new off piste in Mayrhofen in January to ride. Shouldn’t be a problem in Tignes in February as first trip there so everything will be new. As an aside to this: don’t trash base of new snowboard.
Still be able to Bench BW x 1.5 and Deadlift BW x 2.5. Be able to Squat BW x 2.
Finish Transvulcania Half Marathon within an hour of Mrs B.
Plan post retirement trip.
Have fun……………actually that one should be up there as one not to miss.
Let’s see what the year brings.
-
free Murciana ‘78 on the Bulnes.
A fine aim.
:bow:
-
Good luck with the goals everyone!
Take leader falls again. I haven’t taken a fall since my accident and I need to sort this ASAP as it’s pretty much the only scary thing I haven’t done as part of my recovery yet.
Since I was first told that 18 months out from my accident would be the “new normal” date when I’m physically as recovered as I’ll get I’ve set the target of Leading HVS and low 6s and carrying normal loads to the crag by the end of September and I’m sticking with that. Obviously it would be great to go far beyond it though...
Finish one or, ideally both of my new films.
Stretch and regain flexibility I lost so much flexibility this year. Progress in getting it back has begun already but has so far been limited by recovery levels. A concerted, organised effort is going to be needed throughout this year.
Capitalise on positives from 2018 I’ve gained a new approach to lots of things this year- I can suddenly see training as a long game with incremental improvement as a reward for sticking with a plan, my attitude to and tolerance of pain and discomfort is completely different, when I climb now I try far harder than I ever have and I generally have a more optimistic/ open-minded view of how things could and might pan out. I want these aspects of my life to be permanent changes, not temporary ones. I got an incredible chance this year and I want to make the most of it.
-
Abide by the rules: :rtfm:
1. Take at least 3 complete rests of 7-10 days during the year and every 3-4 weeks have an easier (non-training) week
2. Minimum of 2 deadhang sessions a week except on planned easy weeks, rest weeks and trips
3. Only commit to routes and problems that I genuinely think I can do within 4 sessions in a season (Oak excepted). 2 extra bonus days allowable if close on the send/redpoint
4. If I haven’t got past the horn on the Oak from the ground within 5 sessions then sack it off for the season
Do a one arm pull-up again
Just because
The Oak
Prepare well mentally and physically over the next two months ready for when it next comes into condition
Find a part time job I’m psyched for
Possibly a role in the not-for-profit sector generating commercial revenue. Open to offers! Alternatively come to terms with semi retirement.
Keep dancing...
-
A maintain year I think due to complicated relationship visa problems....
Climb 20 7A or harder including some in my anti style
Climb 30+ 7's again
10-14 days in a warmer climate over winter
Climb x3 7c's
Plan a big trip for 2020
Sort out visa issues which is preventing trips
-
One of: 7C/8a/E5 or anything off my unfinished business list
-
1. Manage elbow niggles and avoid other injuries, get weight down a bit (sub 11 1/2 st) and stretch at least once a week.
2. Climb lots of E4/5s in the South West. Would be good to do some off last year's list.
3. Go the Rucksack Club Gogarth meet and climb one of the main cliff E5s. Alternatively I'd settle for a weekend trip somewhere else outside the South West..
4. RP 8a. Not sure how realistic this, given that the nearest one is now 2 hrs drive from home and at the weekends I would usually rather go trad climbing.
-
-- >8hrs sleep every night
-- tick off more from This is Yorkshire
-- go sport climbing at least once
-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and Ribtickler
-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up
-- >25% of the above to be 7C and up
-- 7C on the Depot 50
-
- complete Yorkshire Triple Crown, weather permitting.
- fill in a few gaps on the long term goal of ticking the left wall at Malham. GBH and Baboo would be nice.
- investigate Cry Freedom or Bat Route.
- go trad climbing a bit more to keep my hand in. Go to the Lakes especially for this.
- sort out work to hopefully allow significantly more flexible working and/or some part time, remote work for a set amount per year. Equally perfectly willing to sack it off so hopefully a half reasonable negotiating position!
- get plans in place for a long Spain trip towards the end of the year.
-
Sport: Something in the 8a/+ region in Yorkshire. Zoolook is the obvious one I've not yet done.
More in the Peak. An 8 at the Tor would be great.
Bouldering: try and get back up to 7b/+. Not fussed what.
Trad: yeah, whatever...
-
* climb any one of my top 3 ongoing challenges err, obviously i mean routes that spanked me in 2018: L'adrecador, Flix flax at Terradets or Los Incredulos at Chulilla.
* Finish the Yorkshire Triple Crown
* Do some remaining routes in Gordale, Pierrepoint, Perfect Mirage (?)
* The Big Apple (or failing that find another decent Peak 8a)
* Climb some trad: nothing at all in 2018, so realistically getting a couple of E4/5 classics done would be ideal, but the more the better - plenty to do in the lakes or pembroke
-
1. Look after myself mentally and physically (see 2-4). Very non-specific but I’ll know it when I see it.
2. Change my work status.
3. Spend a lot more time (like more than 19 nights) in the hills or by the sea. Should be able get away for weekends rather than day trips from April, however may need to spend some of these in Weston-super-Mare (see 7) which won’t count. It would be great to climb in North Wales for the first time in more than a decade.
4. Make a decent fist of being a dad.
5. A classic Pembroke E5 (Wall of Prey would be even better).
6. Continue to tick my teenage wish-list with Scenic Cruise in the Black. Bonus points for other western US destinations from Climb! (https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=22463307643&searchurl=sortby%3D17%26an%3DDudley%2BChelton%252C%2BBob%2BGodfrey%252C%26ds%3D20&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title7) and Master of Rock (https://www.amazon.co.uk/John-Gill-Master-bouldering-legend-ebook/dp/B07KBQ6LFM/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1542874890&sr=1-2&keywords=John+Gill%3A+Master+of+Rock).
7. RP 7b+ (The Jimi Hendrix Experience?). Finish the job on Empire... and Paradise Lost.
8. Fall off a 5.13 (7c+).
-
* Do some remaining routes in Gordale, Pierrepoint, Perfect Mirage (?)
Thought The Perfect Mirage (TPM!) was great, as good as Defcon in my opinion (possibly slightly biased since the process and grade added to it for me), see my best of 2018 entry. Cement Garden is also great if you haven't done it. Conditions on that side can be pretty good during spring/early summer, the worst of the seepage is often avoidable (and less than other side) and the breeze often gives decent conditions when it might be too hot at Malham.
-
7C
-
- tick 5 problems off the “why have you still not done these yet?” list
- put in 5 sessions on a good 8A+/B
- tick 5 problems off the board list
- climb something at Malham
- 5 sec one arm hang the BM 10’s
-
- climb something The Oak at Malham
Fixed that for you. I know you and Ben made a pact to try it so just come out with it :)
-
- tick 5 problems off the “why have you still not done these yet?” list
- put in 5 sessions on a good 8A+/B
- tick 5 problems off the board list
- climb something at Malham
- 5 sec one arm hang the BM 10’s
I like this list. Do you think the 10's are actually any harder than BM2K bottom (or top on 1k)? They feel similar in difficulty, just more painful.
-
2019 is going to be a year of ticking stuff.
20 7ANYTHING (inc Help the Young / Benchmark / Beach Ball / Mark’s Roof / Boyager)
20 7anything (inc Waves Become Wings / Violent Breed / Yorkshire Talk at the Promenade, plus Empire of the Sun / The Lynch at Ansteys)
10 Eanything
Get on 8a / 7B+ and reassess Project 8a
Family font trip at Easter, something in the summer, sport trip in the autumn
Try to wangle more mid-week Dorset / SW days, even if it’s just for solo shunting
Clear garage and get a board up asap
Get weight down to 80kg (or a touch lower)
147
1 arm pull-up
Push on with yoga and stretching
Get deal for new book project
Sell bicycles, buy motorbike
Finish kitchen (3 1/2 years and counting)
-
I like this list. Do you think the 10's are actually any harder than BM2K bottom (or top on 1k)? They feel similar in difficulty, just more painful.
There's probably not much in it, however, the roundness of the BM2K edge means I can only really hold it with a 4 finger "drag", which is easily my strongest position.
A few months ago I was doing 1-2 seconds on the 10's, but I was using the strict half-crimp right angle position, which I find much harder than my go to drag grip.
-
- climb something The Oak at Malham
Fixed that for you. I know you and Ben made a pact to try it so just come out with it :)
it originally read
- go to Malham once
which is literally all I plan to do. But I thought I might as well try to redpoint one of the warm ups, so I amended it accordingly.
-
it originally read
- go to Malham once
which is literally all I plan to do. But I thought I might as well try to redpoint one of the warm ups, so I amended it accordingly.
I'll give you the beta and you can try and flash one of them mate :whistle:
-
I haven't touched this thread in years. Here are the things I would like to do this year:
Training:
Continue to get stronger. This will probably involve spending most of my weekly winter Depot session on the boards. Maybe don't overthink it too much and just try and do varied problems on these boards?
Get some fitness via aerocap or whatever before sport season arrives.
Bouldering:
Fill out the grade pyramid a bit with some 7B+ and 7Cs, with the usual compliment of 7Bs. It would be nice if some of these were things like Lager Lager Lager or Crystal Method which are theoretically within the grade bracket but have a reputation for shutting people down.
Do some FAs. This could be tricky. And doing some really good ones might just not happen. There are a few things on my list that could be go-ers but it'll be tricky to fit them in.
List currently looks like:
Losing My Edge
The Flakes
Lager Lager Lager
Sloping Beauty
Underpants
Pruneaux
Dom's Problem
Secret Seventh
Crystal Method
Jess' Roof
Sport:
Do a first benchmark 7b+. Not one of these 7b/7b+ things.
Do a really good first 7c. A proper belter. Hopefully New Dawn or Dominatrix.
Depending on how that goes, do a first 7c+.
I'll make a proper list closer to the time, but off the top of my head it would be great to do:
New Dawn, Space Race, Dominatrix, Vorsprung, Smouldering Globules, Illywacker, Sunset Boulevard, Comedy,
Trad:
No idea. It would be great to snatch a bit of mountain trad over the summer. There are routes I'd like to do (Wellington Crack, High Noon, etc), but I'm not sure yet if I'll be psyched enough about them to make sure they get done.
Other:
It would be great to move house into a "forever home" this year.
Absolutely beast the guidebook.
-
Do a really good first 7c. A proper belter. Hopefully New Dawn or Dominatrix.
Depending on how that goes, do a first 7c+.
I'll make a proper list closer to the time, but off the top of my head it would be great to do:
New Dawn, Space Race, Dominatrix, Vorsprung, Smouldering Globules, Illywacker, Sunset Boulevard, Comedy,
That's a great list; I'd add Divine Brown at the Hollywood Bowl - one of my highlights of this year - lovely gymnastic moves and despite supposedly being two grades harder, I found it a lot easier than Illywacker! Unfortunately it's very seepy - the long hot summer last year was a bit of a golden time for climbing at Hollywood and Gordale.
-
Sloping Beauty
Secret Seventh
Good aims. However, how on earth have you not yet done either of these yet?!?!?
One is a dyno, which I understand you excel at but it can also have all the fun taken out of it via lank. The other is absolute piss and you'll enjoy being able to downgrade it!
-
Sport: 4 8a's which inspire (Defcon 3, Doctor Evil, Canyonlands, The bulge, etc.)
1 8a+ (Supercool, possibly GHB)
Keep enjoying bouldering, no particular goals there
Trad: Ground up some hard but safe things (Block and Tackle etc.)
Training: Hang bottom beastmaker 2000 one armed (very unlikely, not even close really)
Keep up max hangs as much as possible
Keep up the antagonists
Keep walking/running, it feels good
Life: Less anxiety
Eat more ethically, sack off dairy etc.
Sell things you don't need and give money to charity (books etc.)
Have fun
-
* Do some remaining routes in Gordale, Pierrepoint, Perfect Mirage (?)
Thought The Perfect Mirage (TPM!) was great, as good as Defcon in my opinion (possibly slightly biased since the process and grade added to it for me), see my best of 2018 entry. Cement Garden is also great if you haven't done it...
Cheers Ian, I've done Defcon but not the others. Two questions: what is the rock quality like, and does reach make a big difference on these routes?
-
Meltdown before Franco
Front splits
Do an E9
Be in best shape of my life for the Cochamo project in Jan 2020
Either get the self employed coaching/music teaching/maths/science tutoring thing to work better than it currently is, or find a job I'm actively psyched for....
-
Cheers Ian, I've done Defcon but not the others. Two questions: what is the rock quality like, and does reach make a big difference on these routes?
Rock quality, bit typical Gordale. Lower section on TPM has some rattly stuff, upper (crux) section is on very good rock, Cement Garden, generally good and any loose stuff doesn't detract from the quality imo.
Reach, I used a bit of lank at the crux on TPM (I did it on the right) but Keefe did it pretty quickly and I believe took the same line, so don't think height is too much of an issue. Cement Garden is sustained climbing with hardish moves between decent shakes and I wouldn't think reach has any significant impact.
-
Not sure setting annual goals while slightly ill, slightly injured and very under-exercised is the best time but equally maybe it is:
Really would like to do more trad, the wish list is long and dreams are of long wall pitches on sunny mountain days (but not of faffing with gear and route finding and constantly shitting it and painful feet, none of that reality thank you very much). I'm sure if I could get slick with gear again then E5 is possible, but it always comes down to availability of partners and using your time effectively so convenient sport wins too often. Realistically, say, 10 trad days.
2/3 UK mountain/coast long weekends would no doubt help the above
Knock a couple off the Peak Sport WIPs list, will no doubt add some too but aim to finish the year with a net loss.
Complete a Kilnsey route - always fee like the kid in a sweet shop when I go, always use bad tactics and always get spanked meaning I have an unfinished route at every grade from 7a+ to 7c+. Maybe I should employ some logic and work up rather than down
Perhaps I should put New Dawn on if it's so good, always thought the Peak had the 7c jewel in Too Old Too Be Bold but I'm prepared to be proved wrong
-
Quite simple for me, 3 x new 7a problems outside.
Think there is sufficient life in the old dog, plus I'm getting a bit better/more focused with training. Really comes down to passes out, weather / time on those days and making sensible choices on target problems. Can see me getting to Blackstone Edge a bit.
Life-wise, I'd like to be less grumpy / more patient with my kids, and at some point move house to somewhere bigger. Seems like everyone's holding their breath till after Brexit though, nothing out there that fits the bill for us at the moment.
-
Perhaps I should put New Dawn on if it's so good, always thought the Peak had the 7c jewel in Too Old Too Be Bold but I'm prepared to be proved wrong
I'd struggle to look past New Dawn as the best route, never mind the best 7c in the country, although Dominatrix is definitely up there.
-
Quite simple for me, 3 x new 7a problems outside.
Have a look at Northern Rail at Hebden Gill. It's one of mine and I was really soft with the grade. It's not been repeated yet, I don't think, so no downgrades yet! Get it while it's still 7A!
Another massive softy is Plummet Earth at High Crags in Colsterdale. Fairly straightforward sloper slapping into a couple of smearing moves to get to the top.
-
always thought the Peak had the 7c jewel in Too Old Too Be Bold but I'm prepared to be proved wrong
Is this a joke?
:jaw:
-
2018 was, on paper at least, a good climbing year for me. I never really hit my stride though due to some family issues and spent a lot of the sunner not quite as fit as I'd like and with little headspace for harder trad.
Goals for this year:
- Redpoint another 7c, probably at Ban-Y-Gor, Brean is also an option. I'd love to get New Dawn done but it's a long way from home, worth a couple of weekends if I'm feeling fit.
- Mileage on 7a and 7b on Spain trip in February. It would be great to flash a 7b, but I'd settle for second or third go. Flashing a few 7as would be a good trip.
- the one that goes in every year. Onsighting some of the big E5s, Pembroke, Right Wall, Pacemaker etc. I didn't quite get to this fitness last year.
- Support SO into fulfilling employment. WIP already.
- Lose a few kg, stay under 75.
- Regular running (min 5km per week) and min 1 session fingerboarding per week.
-
5. A classic Pembroke E5 (Wall of Prey would be even better).
7. RP 7b+ (The Jimi Hendrix Experience?). Finish the job on Empire... and Paradise Lost.
Keen for these too if you need a partner.
-
Focus this year is to maintain bouldering power and seek some climbing balance.
- Five 7C+'s or higher (this would be a new pb)
- Three sport routes off my list (will have to drag myself away from the Bowderstone)
- Three decent trad routes (completely failed before so lets keep it simple)
- In the words of M. Katz, "always do something". Less of the TV watching and more reading, writing, stretching etc.
- Fingerboard. I have never really done this and I think it's starting to show through as a main weakness.
- Take more holiday
-
Ok, so I have a long list of potential aims for this year with varying degrees of importance and likelihood of success. These aren’t new years resolutions and some of the general life stuff I’m doing already so this isn’t a whole load of change in one go destined for failure (I hope).
Sport climbing
Climb Fighting Torque. Number one goal; if I do this I’ll be happy, even if I do nothing else.
Get back to some of my less frequently visited crags, Anstey’s, Cheddar etc. Tick off more routes from the old list. Climb Ninja Warrior, Circus Finale, Directoonima. Try Academic, Cider Soak again.
Climb significantly more routes above 7a than last year.
Climb significantly more routes of any grade than last year.
Bouldering
Cycle back to strength and power training after climbing Fighting Torque.
Main goal: Riders on the Storm. Step up in grade for me, but absolutely my style, probably best chance of climbing 7C at my current ability.
Tick off something from my ‘fuck-me-this-is-impossible’ sandbag list: Work Shy, Stompin’ with Bez, Full Power.
Try Ope in Hell at least once.
As it cools down later in the year, go to Dartmoor. Try Foal’s Chopper again.
Go to Font in spring (if Brexit doesn’t make this impossible).
Climb significantly more problems over 7A than last year.
DWS
Summer – climb anything above water, should be able to combine trip to Fisherman’s ledge with outing with the wife and her family.
Training
Number one goal: Maintain consistency.
Continue regular supplementary fingerboard stuff.
Cycle training in vaguely structured manner (this is sort of a plan to plan).
General life
Reduce overall use of screens. Discovered Screen Time on iPhone recently. Quite shocking the amount of wasted time. To that end:
1) No TV at least every other day during the week. I never missed TV when I didn’t own one, somehow has become evening habit.
2) Stop obsessively checking phone during any moment of down time. I’ll try replace with reading journals when I’m at work. Big habit to break, I have definitely become a phone addict, a feature I tend to dislike in others.
Leading on to - Sleep hygiene (again!). No phone use 1 hour before going to bed. Ideally have cut off at 2100 or something like that.
Yoga most days.
Would like to trial meditation, see if I get any benefit from it!
Read more books.
Call parents once a week.
Donate blood maximum number of times.
Back to non-Christmas diet (this will be easy).
Back to minimal alcohol (this will be easy when not at parent's or in law's).
Longer term: Re-evaluate my relationship with meat. Increasingly of the opinion that some degree of vegetarianism/veganism is ethically correct with regards to the environment, but I’m just not there yet. Reduce consumption at very at least.
Work life
Apply for job from August.
Dedicate time every week to continued learning of some sort.
-
Training Goals
Get below 80kg for March trip
10-second front lever
Complete McColl's silly 10-10-10 challenge
Complete at least three 6-week phases of max-hangs over the year
Climbing Goals
Boulder 7C in Macedonia
Boulder 7C+
Life Goals
Move to the States
-
2018 wasn't a terrible year but I spent much of it sieging a few 7C's and coming far too close, but failing to send. This year I plan to get to some different venues and build a decent pyramid along the way. Hopefully with a decent pyramid and some training blocs I can get 7C ticked.
Bouldering
7C
10 7B's
Go on a trip to a new venue abroad
50+ days outdoors
Training Goals
Complete at least three 6-week phases of max-hangs over the year (stolen from coops)
100 benchmarks on the Moonboard
Pancake - pulled my groin last year when I nearly did this in box splits so should start working towards it again really.
Work on mental game/tactics (feel this really held me back in 2018)
Life
Work on sleeping habits
Any of the ones on Paint it Black?
Gimmie a shout when you start working on this, had a few sessions last year on it and would be nice to get it finished off!
-
Any of the ones on Paint it Black?
Gimmie a shout when you start working on this, had a few sessions last year on it and would be nice to get it finished off!
Likewise, I'm hoping the fingerboarding I'm doing may allow for a send...
-
I have read that you need to write down your goals and tell people about them to put some pressure on yourself so here goes.
Goals for the year.
Routes - Redpoint 8a
Boulder outside - 7C and 50 new to me 7s ( guidebook grades, grovels and link ups allowed. Very much a quantity thing not quality)
Boulder School - 7C
Training - 1-4-7, one arm hang BM2k slot for 5 secs, front lever, 2 x BW DL. 1.5 x BW BP.
Work - drop to 4 day week from July. Things already in place to allow this to happen.
Life - Raise 30k to take 21 fifteen year olds on rugby tour to Japan for the world cup in October. 20k reached and flights booked. Been a time consuming challenge so far but will be worth it.
Think its all more than possible now my life is getting a bit easier. Biggest task wont be physical but getting out enough to do the 50 7s.
-
Paint it Black?
Gimmie a shout
Likewise
OK chaps will do. Unlikely to be dry before April so we all have plenty of time to get in shape.
-
Always an exciting time of the year this! The last two years have been so good route climbing wise. This last year hasn’t been terrible for bouldering but I’m definitely struggling at this genre more than I have before. I can deal with it as long as I keep having route success, but it is something I will need to address.
Anyway my goals;
Heading to Spain for a couple of months so goals for that first as always.
- Consolidate at 8a. Would be great to rattle some more off and a bit quicker than i have before. So far both the 8as I’ve done have taken 4 sessions though serpentine was actually done in about 6 goes up. So this is achievable. To do an 8a in a session would be amazing.
- 7c onsight was very close to this a couple of years ago so this should be doable but o/sing is a fickle art form. Would love to flash 7c+ if one presents itself.
- I’d love to try something trickier for me like Mon Dieu, 8a+, at Oliana. Not so much about the grade (though maybe it holds some attraction)
My U.K. summer may be a little different to usual as I have a girlfriend who works one day if the weekend in Sheffield. I may well get less weekends away tradding. (A slightly terrifying prospect)
- Zoolook, Malham. I think we will maybe spend quite a bit of time at Malham as I really like it there. And I think it will suit Hannah’s strengths. Think this will be a big step up (maybe more so than Mon Dieu as a U.K. 8a that is nearly 8a+ is probably going to be harder than a euro 8a+)
-Some other high 7/low 8s (New dawn/Defcon/Biological Need)
- More E6s. If I do Lord this year I’d be absolutely made up. Other E6s I’d like to do would include; Suicide Blonde, Grezelda/knock yourself out, The Cad, Pretty Girls, R&S Special. Ahh the list goes on. Be amazing to build on my first E6 onsights from last year.
- Do some Trad with Hannah and have fun, get her into it and enjoying it. She is an ace climber so she shouldn’t struggle. Would be ace if she could enjoy doing trickier things with me, rather than having a shit time, especially if she got into leading mid E-grades. If she’s not into doing trickier stuff with me I won’t push this.
-Bouldering. Really struggling with this this year. Be good to do some 7Bs again. I basically need to remember how to move like a boulderer. Maybe I need to find the love again, who knows but I’m struggling with it at the moment for whatever reason.
Hope everyone has a great year!
-
Paint it Black?
Gimmie a shout
Likewise
OK chaps will do. Unlikely to be dry before April so we all have plenty of time to get in shape.
PiB, Byker Groove and Working 9 to 5 stand are a lovely trio of complementary lowball 7Cishs - I’ll give you all the sneaky hidden toehook beta etc if you can drag me over the road ;)
Goals:
Somehow desperately hang on to current best ever form/weight until lime comes back to life..
Then: Mutton bustin (sooooo close), Mutton King, maybe King of Lambs, maybe get on Pork Chop if can face the pain, Floodgates
Continue relatively aimless engagement with Armed Forces Bouldering League with Alison
Start taking 9yo yoof to comps (he’s just qualified for the Stoke AW youth squad :boxing:)
Lift 5 plates (220) again without putting in too much distracting effort - at current weight that would be a BW PR- I guess if lifting went well I could think about aiming for 3.5BW (230@65.7) - although I’ve lifted 230 twice before I think would be veeeery difficult at current weight/deprioritised training..
Finally build that 12x5m garage/ultimate training facility that’s been on the to-do for 10yrs now :slap: Planning permission granted, architects plans done, builder engaged, funded, still have a lurking doubt it will never happen..
-
- Zoolook, Malham. I think we will maybe spend quite a bit of time at Malham as I really like it there. And I think it will suit Hannah’s strengths. Think this will be a big step up (maybe more so than Mon Dieu as a U.K. 8a that is nearly 8a+ is probably going to be harder than a euro 8a+)
If ever there was a trad climbers 8a zoolook is it. I'm not sure it's nearly 8a+, just an 8a that's really easy to fall off perhaps?! Good luck, it's certainly one of the best however hard it is
-
It's not 8a+ but it's bloody hard for 8a I reckon. If the section up to the rest was any harder it would be 8a+ for sure. Fucking brilliant route though if you get that done in a session I'll buy you a pint Duncan! If you need some slightly shorter than average beta shout.
-
Paint it Black?
Gimmie a shout
Likewise
OK chaps will do. Unlikely to be dry before April so we all have plenty of time to get in shape.
And while you’re farting about enjoying yourself and actually climbing whole problems on grit, PiB and 9to5 were both in condition today - just sayin’ :whistle:
-
Effectively halfway there now.
- tick 5 problems off the “why have you still not done these yet?” list [2 down]
- put in 5 sessions on a good 8A+/B [A big fat tick! although the problem actually took 4 sessions...]
- tick 5 problems off the board list [only one down, close on 3 others]
- climb something at Malham [hasn't really crossed my mind since writing it...]
- 5 sec one arm hang the BM 10’s [zero deadhanging this year, still time though]
Having managed my main aim for the year, anything else just feels like a victory lap really.
-
1. Move south - YYFY. There is an actual choice of crags for day trips and actual people to climb with and everything.
2. Climb / travel more - work in progress - getting plenty of mileage in but it's all local choss, need to start putting a lot more effort into getting away
3. Keep healing / improve health - little / very slow improvement in digestive health with a relapse during May but elbows are healing well and can tolerate a lot more usage
Fucking rivetting eh.
-
1. Look after myself mentally and physically (see 2-4). Very non-specific but I’ll know it when I see it.
A work in progress, no tweaks this year untl last weekend and that was a proper falling off type injury. Mental state has been very mixed but I'm hopeful I've recently turned a corner
2. Change my work status.
Verbal agreement from all parties to move to part-time working from September. Paperwork submitted
3. Spend a lot more time (like more than 19 nights) in the hills or by the sea. Should be able get away for weekends rather than day trips from April, however may need to spend some of these in Weston-super-Mare (see 7) which won’t count. It would be great to climb in North Wales for the first time in more than a decade.
35 nights so far!
4. Make a decent fist of being a dad.
A bit too much skype but seems to be going OK
5. A classic Pembroke E5 (Wall of Prey would be even better).
No but feels close: a good number of E3/4s or equivalent done. Assuming the wrist injury is not something too serious I'm still confident it will happen.
6. Continue to tick my teenage wish-list with Scenic Cruise in the Black. Bonus points for other western US destinations from Climb! (https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=22463307643&searchurl=sortby%3D17%26an%3DDudley%2BChelton%252C%2BBob%2BGodfrey%252C%26ds%3D20&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title7) and Master of Rock (https://www.amazon.co.uk/John-Gill-Master-bouldering-legend-ebook/dp/B07KBQ6LFM/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1542874890&sr=1-2&keywords=John+Gill%3A+Master+of+Rock).
Yes!
7. RP 7b+ (The Jimi Hendrix Experience?). Finish the job on Empire... and Paradise Lost.
The plan is to focus on sport after September
8. Fall off a 5.13 (7c+).
As for 7.
I'm pretty happy with how things have gone, other than not even trying an E5. It's not trivial getting fitness, psyched partner, psyched self and dry rock to align.
-
Not too bad so far...
- complete Yorkshire Triple Crown, weather permitting. Noty even started this yet. Might get one done towards the back end of the season.
- fill in a few gaps on the long term goal of ticking the left wall at Malham. GBH and Baboo would be nice. Ditto. Had a look at Bab00 a few weeks ago and enjoyed it.
- investigate Cry Freedom or Bat Route. Done a bit more than just investigate. Nearly there now...I hope.
- go trad climbing a bit more to keep my hand in. Go to the Lakes especially for this. Done some trad in Scotland which I really enjoyed.
- sort out work to hopefully allow significantly more flexible working and/or some part time, remote work for a set amount per year. Equally perfectly willing to sack it off so hopefully a half reasonable negotiating position! Nailed this. Working remotely from January with 1 day a week in the office.
- get plans in place for a long Spain trip towards the end of the year. 3 months without work planned from October through to New Year, the majority of which to be spent in Spain I expect.
-
Jammy git.
-
Jammy git.
This is more or less to the word what several others have said... :2thumbsup:
-
Training Goals
Get below 80kg for March trip Didn't happen, not too fussed. Was a good trip - not sure I was ever going to crush on those sharp holds
10-second front lever Pah!
Complete McColl's silly 10-10-10 challenge Don't even remember writing this...
Complete at least three 6-week phases of max-hangs over the year Moving country and injuring a pulley has put this on hold...
Climbing Goals
Boulder 7C in Macedonia Nope, see above
Boulder 7C+ Still time to do this, gonna leave as amber
Life Goals
Move to the States YYFY, CO is mint :2thumbsup:
Most important goal achieved :2thumbsup:
-
2018 wasn't a terrible year but I spent much of it sieging a few 7C's and coming far too close, but failing to send. This year I plan to get to some different venues and build a decent pyramid along the way. Hopefully with a decent pyramid and some training blocs I can get 7C ticked.
Bouldering
7C done. Revised this as 2 this year and a 7C+
[s]10 7B's[/s]
Go on a trip to a new venue abroad done
50+ days outdoors about 30-40 days so far with a similiar number of 7s done.
Training Goals
Complete at least three 6-week phases of max-hangs over the year (stolen from coops) done recruitment hangs most weeks since February twice a week but only 1 block of 6 weeks in January to start the year. Plan to do another cycle of actually maximal hangs when I get home from Rocklands.
100 benchmarks on the Moonboard managed to clear through these in January and early February when doing 2-3 sessions on the moon board a week. Definitely helped put me in good form at the start of the year.
Pancake - pulled my groin last year when I nearly did this in box splits so should start working towards it again really.
Not tried to do this at all.
Work on mental game/tactics (feel this really held me back in 2018)
Life
Work on sleeping habits
Any of the ones on Paint it Black?
Gimmie a shout when you start working on this, had a few sessions last year on it and would be nice to get it finished off!
-
2018 was, on paper at least, a good climbing year for me. I never really hit my stride though due to some family issues and spent a lot of the sunner not quite as fit as I'd like and with little headspace for harder trad.
Goals for this year:
- Redpoint another 7c, probably at Ban-Y-Gor, Brean is also an option. I'd love to get New Dawn done but it's a long way from home, worth a couple of weekends if I'm feeling fit. Not put any effort into sport projects.
- Mileage on 7a and 7b on Spain trip in February. It would be great to flash a 7b, but I'd settle for second or third go. Flashing a few 7as would be a good trip. Onsighted several 7as in a day, did some 7a+ and a 7b second go. Great trip with a good crowd and fantastic weather.
- the one that goes in every year. Onsighting some of the big E5s, Pembroke, Right Wall, Pacemaker etc. I didn't quite get to this fitness last year. Messed up the onsight on RW by missing a gear placement and not wanting to go further without more gear! Done 2 Pembroke E5s, one onsight so this is looking positive really :-)
- Support SO into fulfilling employment. WIP already. Starts September
- Lose a few kg, stay under 75. 76kg
- Regular running (min 5km per week) and min 1 session fingerboarding per week.
Fail on the running, hav been out a bit but very limited motivation. Have been fingerboarding regularly and has made a big difference.
-
Year seems to be going by really fast!
Ok, so I have a long list of potential aims for this year with varying degrees of importance and likelihood of success. These aren’t new years resolutions and some of the general life stuff I’m doing already so this isn’t a whole load of change in one go destined for failure (I hope).
Sport climbing
Climb Fighting Torque. Number one goal; if I do this I’ll be happy, even if I do nothing else. Done. Very pleased to get this done as 8a has been a target for 10 years. Not sure I'll be happy to do nothing else though!
Get back to some of my less frequently visited crags, Anstey’s, Cheddar etc. Tick off more routes from the old list. Climb Ninja Warrior, Circus Finale, Directoonima. Try Academic, Cider Soak again. Have been back to both, but haven't tried any of those routes. Other projects taking priority right now!
Climb significantly more routes above 7a than last year. Low hanging fruit, done
Climb significantly more routes of any grade than last year. Lower hanging fruit, done.
Bouldering
Cycle back to strength and power training after climbing Fighting Torque. Happy with how this is going.
Main goal: Riders on the Storm. Step up in grade for me, but absolutely my style, probably best chance of climbing 7C at my current ability. Not yet tried, but hadn't planned to yet.
Tick off something from my ‘fuck-me-this-is-impossible’ sandbag list: Work Shy, Stompin’ with Bez, Full Power. Hardest goal? Not yet tried.
Try Ope in Hell at least once.Not yet.
As it cools down later in the year, go to Dartmoor. Try Foal’s Chopper again. Winter plan, low priority.
Go to Font in spring (if Brexit doesn’t make this impossible). Done, Beatle Juice highlight.
Climb significantly more problems over 7A than last year. Not yet.
DWS
Summer – climb anything above water, should be able to combine trip to Fisherman’s ledge with outing with the wife and her family. Not yet.
Training
Number one goal: Maintain consistency.
Continue regular supplementary fingerboard stuff. Happy with this.
Cycle training in vaguely structured manner (this is sort of a plan to plan). Nothing formal, but I've been training according to goals and it seems to be working so far.
General life
Reduce overall use of screens. Pretty poor. Discovered Screen Time on iPhone recently. Quite shocking the amount of wasted time. To that end:
1) No TV at least every other day during the week. I never missed TV when I didn’t own one, somehow has become evening habit. Mostly failed here.
2) Stop obsessively checking phone during any moment of down time. I’ll try replace with reading journals when I’m at work. Big habit to break, I have definitely become a phone addict, a feature I tend to dislike in others. Mostly failed here too.
Leading on to - Sleep hygiene (again!). No phone use 1 hour before going to bed. Ideally have cut off at 2100 or something like that. Total failure.
Yoga most days. Not most, but have been doing it.
Would like to trial meditation, see if I get any benefit from it! Still want to try this.
Read more books. Have a list longer than my project list!
Call parents once a week. Not done this.
Donate blood maximum number of times. So far so good. Every 3 months since March 2018.
Back to non-Christmas diet (this will be easy). When I needed to. Orange right now, but would have been green most of year.
Back to minimal alcohol (this will be easy when not at parent's or in law's). Again, when I needed to. Last couple weeks only been a bit off the wagon for some reason.
Longer term: Re-evaluate my relationship with meat. Increasingly of the opinion that some degree of vegetarianism/veganism is ethically correct with regards to the environment, but I’m just not there yet. Reduce consumption at very at least. Will take stock of where I am here end of June. Making progress.
Work life
Apply for job from August. Dorchester for 6 months from August. Lots of evening Portland trips I hope.
Dedicate time every week to continued learning of some sort. Hmm...
Next year I'm going to plan to do less I think.
So far...
Sport going well, just want more.
Bouldering, not yet done much, planning on doing more in Autumn.
Pretty happy with how climbing is going, which is the main thing!
General life. More misses than hits, but actually still pretty happy. Few improvements to make. I think I've been lax on the sleep hygiene because my sleep has actually been pretty good anyway so just hasn't seemed necessary. Most of the time I find it hard to sleep after a hard training session and CBD oil sorts that right out on the occasions I feel really wired.
Work life, can't complain either, just will need to start hitting the books again some time soonish.
-
Focus this year is to maintain bouldering power and seek some climbing balance.
- Five 7C+'s or higher (this would be a new pb)
- Three sport routes off my list (will have to drag myself away from the Bowderstone)
- Three decent trad routes (completely failed before so lets keep it simple)
- In the words of M. Katz, "always do something". Less of the TV watching and more reading, writing, stretching etc.
- Fingerboard. I have never really done this and I think it's starting to show through as a main weakness.
- Take more holiday
One 7C+ so far and flipping close on another. I'm still holding out for all five this year.
I'll go sport climbing when I get my knee pad back...
Only thing I've used my trad rack for is weight on the finger board. I did do Dead Babies at Eastby and seconded Dream of White Horses in disgusting weather.
Bearing in mind I've just sat through an hour of love Island eating chocolate, this one is not going well. I have been forcing myself to exercise though even when knackered.
Had around 4 or 5 sessions not knowing what I was doing but trying hard. See trad rack comment above.
I had quite a bit of unused holiday from last year so putting it to good use this year. Got a week of snowboarding in and two and a half weeks being a tourist in Japan. Have a week coming early September in portugal and a week in Font in October. Feels weird not going climbing on holiday.
-
Half-time
Sport: 8a+ - Have chosen GBH, think the moves suit me and have the beta, will see how it goes with travelling and psyche.
Had 2 sessions in Feb climbing it in 2 halves, then work picked up. Went back in Easter and did the same link, then worked picked up. It's a wonderful route and I'll have some more trips across now I've got a bit more time, I think a week down there should do the trick, but the travelling does put me off, unfortunately.
Boulder: 7B+/C - I’ve not bouldered harder than 7B and I think this is holding me back on the harder Peak Lime routes.
Had a good day at Church Crag up to 7B and got close on Gulliver's but haven't tried much else since. Had a brief session on Ben's Roof with Shark coaching and could see an improvement straight away. I've felt relatively strong recently but a disappointing display on Lilly Savage has shot me down
Trad: Good mileage on E3 and E4 - a long weekend ticking the mid-grade classics at Pembroke, the Pass and Gogarth. Feel safe, get the love back. Try boat to Naxos on a top-rope if Ram goes back on his route.
I think this will take more work, starting at around HVS/E1
DWS: Mark of The Beast, Wizard of Oz Traverse with dinghy party & attempt new route.
The season is about to begin :bounce:
Belaying: 9a belay (current best 8c+). Also, as a long-shot, belay Simon on a season PB on the Oak.
I'm carefully observing Luke Dawson's progress.
Other: Buy house, get Job, free Murciana ‘78 on the Bulnes.
Nearly,YYFY,Might be winched up Deep Blue Sea instead
I'm happy with all that so far, climbing well outside of these aims.
Good luck for the rest of the year UKB.
-
It's halfway through the year so I hope it's not too late to join in. I've been registered with ukb for years but only just started posting now.
My key goal for 2019 is my first 8a sport route. I'm just about to turn 58 and frankly the idea of me getting up an 8a seemed totally implausible. I had always been a trad climber (chuffer?) and had never tried redpointing.
Seven years ago I had a session on Liquid Crystal in Cheddar and could do almost none of the moves. In fact I couldn't even hold on to loads of the holds. Totally shut down.
In the intervening period I have done lots of sport 7s and so just doing more felt okay but also so what. Got back on Liquid Crystal recently and took four sessions to do all the moves (though one of them is low percentage) and a long link. So it feels like a matter of time now and I am psyched out of my tiny mind!
-
:great: allez benga c’mon
-
:great: allez benga c’mon
:thumbsup:
-
That's cool. Keep cranking- who knows what you'll achieve? :strongbench:
-
Thanks Jonathan, Yes it really is mind-expanding when something seems totally beyond you - then you realise that you'll be able to do it - then (I imagine in this case, we shall see) you think hey it wasn't that hard, so I must be able to get up something a lot harder.
-
It's halfway through the year so I hope it's not too late to join in. I've been registered with ukb for years but only just started posting now.
My key goal for 2019 is my first 8a sport route. I'm just about to turn 58 and frankly the idea of me getting up an 8a seemed totally implausible. I had always been a trad climber (chuffer?) and had never tried redpointing.
Seven years ago I had a session on Liquid Crystal in Cheddar and could do almost none of the moves. In fact I couldn't even hold on to loads of the holds. Totally shut down.
In the intervening period I have done lots of sport 7s and so just doing more felt okay but also so what. Got back on Liquid Crystal recently and took four sessions to do all the moves (though one of them is low percentage) and a long link. So it feels like a matter of time now and I am psyched out of my tiny mind!
I chose Liquid Crystal as my first 8a, I did it within a month of my 50th birthday. I hadn't done a sport route for a decade or more, just bouldered. It's a very bouldery route, with a definite crux. Is it a good route choice for you? I guess if you are super motivated for it though that will help. Good luck!
-
Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?
-
Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?
Yep
-
It's a very bouldery route, with a definite crux. Is it a good route choice for you? I guess if you are super motivated for it though that will help. Good luck!
Hi Andy. Thanks! Actually it is turning out to be a good choice for me. I got from clip 2 to the last move in one today! I was completely astonished at the progress. Unfortunately it had to be a really short session as my climbing partner had to go to work. It should go any time now. I head off on Saturday to work in Somaliland until mid July. I am desperately trying to organise work, family and belayer to get on it tomorrow morning or some point on Friday to try to send it before I go!
-
Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?
That is hard but it is no longer the crux for me as my sequence has fallen into place. Technical crux for me is the slap to the break after clip 3. Redpoint crux could turn out to be the last left hand move before clipping the top.
-
Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?
That is hard but it is no longer the crux for me as my sequence has fallen into place. Technical crux for me is the slap to the break after clip 3. Redpoint crux could turn out to be the last left hand move before clipping the top.
That's the move I meant, a dead point from crimps to the break.
-
As a bit of a distraction from the demise of UKB, it seems about time for a halfway update I think!
-- >8hrs sleep every night
Getting better at this
-- tick off more from This is Yorkshire
Nope. Super close on Ben's Sit trying to squeeze it over the line in April but no dice. Few sessions on Zoo and felt like it was getting there but it kept injuring my LH ring finger. Two sessions on The Fonz (working up to Mr C), did it in overlapping halves then never went back. One session on Treebeard sans spotter and got close but crikey you need a spotter. One rushed session post training on Sole and didn't match last year's high point.
-- go sport climbing at least once
Nope.
-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and Ribtickler
One brief session on Iron Man and hadn't gone backwards. Had one session on Lager3 and got stupid close again, then didn't go back. Can't bring myself to go and try Ribtickler again just yet.
-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up
65 done already! Three week trip to Rocklands accounts for over a third of those :lol: but I honestly thought the updated guidebook grades were spot on.
-- >25% of the above to be 7C and up
Totally arbitrary attempt to beat my past self this, based on 25% in both 2017 and 2018. At 35% atm (23 done, more than I've ever done before in a whole year!). No chossy link ups either, all quality independent lines. Have loved doing lots of volume. As above Rocklands gave a good boost but again didn't think anything wasn't worth the guide grade.
-- 7C on the Depot 50
Hahaha not even slightly close. Best effort was a high point on Steady Intro, dropping the penultimate move, in Feb. That's probably the hardest I've ever climbed on the Board tbh but even if I'd finished it it's still not 7C.
-
As a bit of a distraction from the demise of UKB, it seems about time for a halfway update I think!
-- >8hrs sleep every night
Getting better at this
-- tick off more from This is Yorkshire
Nope. Super close on Ben's Sit trying to squeeze it over the line in April but no dice. Few sessions on Zoo and felt like it was getting there but it kept injuring my LH ring finger. Two sessions on The Fonz (working up to Mr C), did it in overlapping halves then never went back. One session on Treebeard sans spotter and got close but crikey you need a spotter. One rushed session post training on Sole and didn't match last year's high point.
-- go sport climbing at least once
Nope.
-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and Ribtickler
One brief session on Iron Man and hadn't gone backwards. Had one session on Lager3 and got stupid close again, then didn't go back. Can't bring myself to go and try Ribtickler again just yet.
-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up
65 done already! Three week trip to Rocklands accounts for over a third of those :lol: but I honestly thought the updated guidebook grades were spot on.
-- >25% of the above to be 7C and up
Totally arbitrary attempt to beat my past self this, based on 25% in both 2017 and 2018. At 35% atm (23 done, more than I've ever done before in a whole year!). No chossy link ups either, all quality independent lines. Have loved doing lots of volume. As above Rocklands gave a good boost but again didn't think anything wasn't worth the guide grade.
-- 7C on the Depot 50
Hahaha not even slightly close. Best effort was a high point on Steady Intro, dropping the penultimate move, in Feb. That's probably the hardest I've ever climbed on the Board tbh but even if I'd finished it it's still not 7C.
Good work going to Sutton, Nick. What state was it in? I'm guessing that Black Annis is covered in brambles again. I'd be up for a visit over the winter. How did you find Treebeard? I'd thought maybe I could do the top arete but I'm willing to bet that the first roof, even if relatively easy, would sap me such that I couldn't do the top. I did wonder about a half-cocked standing start - you can pull onto the lip of the arete at a good square-cut notch.
-
That was back in April, so could have changed considerably but it all looked okay, top outs not too mossy and not heinously overgrown.
Treebeard is absolutely mega. The starting roof is easy peasy, all on jugs. That said, I did it on a rope from putting the heel in the big lip jug to the top and it felt fairly steady, but couldn't then link from the start. Think a fair bit of that was down to pure terror though :lol:
Definitely don't think it'd be cricket to pull on from the lip jug, the line comes through the roof and it's not hard at all. If you did it that way you'd look back and think "I wish I'd done the start".
Very keen to get back so will be in touch when it cools down!
-
I know there’s still nearly three weeks of the year to go, but realistically I’m not now going to achieve any more of my aims for this year. I therefore thought I’d get the ball rolling on the review of this year’s successes and failures:
1. Manage elbow niggles and avoid other injuries, get weight down a bit (sub 11 1/2 st) and stretch at least once a week.
Broke my arm pretty badly in March trying to onsight Demolition at Sennen (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33153).
6 weeks in plaster, another 6 of no climbing, then 3 months of slowly building up strength again basically meant that the trad season was a write-off.
2. Climb lots of E4/5s in the South West. Would be good to do some off last year's list.
Didn’t do hardly any trad routes for reasons above. On the other hand I did headpoint my first E7 at the start of the year (Kagutsuchi at Bosigran - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?) and did the first ascent of a new E6 in the autumn (Feed Me To The Birds at the Lizard - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=546692).
The only other SW trad of note was Kafoozalem at Bosigran (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=822) and Reflections at Pentire (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6299). Both late summer after whipping myself back into shape, and both highly recommended.
3. Go to the Rucksack Club Gogarth meet and climb one of the main cliff E5s. Alternatively I'd settle for a weekend trip somewhere else outside the South West..
Didn’t get to Gogarth, but had an impromptu weekend in Yorkshire at the start of the year.
Had a frustrating Saturday - failed on Great Flake at Caley, then went over to Almscliff and managed Big Greeny, but dogged Great Western and repeatedly dropped the last move of Demon Roof.
However, had a fantastic Sunday at Crookrise bouldering/highballing/soloing - highlights being Small Brown (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28287), Massive Attack (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28286) and Barry Kingsize (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=59891).
Also had a week’s holiday with the family in the Lakes and managed a couple of hours at the Langdale boulders.
4. RP 8a.
Didn’t even try. One to roll over to next year.
Other stuff ...
Not planned goals for the year but chuffed to run my first ultra (a hilly 44.5 miles from the Lizard to Lands End in 10.5 hours) while unable to climb due to my arm, and pleased to boulder my first 7B+ once it was back to strength.
All in all, a pretty good year considering how well I managed to smash myself up in March.
-
Nice one luke. When is the lizard to lands end race? Sounds good.
My 2019 goals were,
Do lots of Font 7s to capitilise on a winter of baby induced fingerboarding
Do some good fell runs
Bouldering has been good in terms of quantity (loads of 7s, inudimg about 4 7B+), but would like to try and get on some harder stuff. Haven't really had a proper siege.
Did some good running, the highlight being Okehampton to Ivybridge across the Moor, on a glorious September morning, on bone dry ground, with a great friend. It started raining as we arrived in Ivybridge, and hasn't really stopped since! Next year would like to get a bit faster over 10-15 miles and do a few more races.
-
I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western. Because to go from trying an E6 then to lead an E3 to then end up dogging a VS would be impressive.
-
I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western. Because to go from trying an E6 then to lead an E3 to then end up dogging a VS would be impressive.
:agree:
That sort of form variance is enough to call his entire climbing CV into question, I'd say.
This post is a joke.
-
When is the lizard to lands end race? Sounds good.
It was the Classic Quarter in June. I would highly recommend it. Great scenery and atmosphere, well organised and you get to finish in the Lands End Hotel for a pint (although I was so fucked that I nearly passed out while queuing for the bar).
-
I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western.
:lol: Yeah. It doesn’t matter how many times I go there, I have total mental block and always get the name of these two the wrong way round!
-
A maintain year I think due to complicated relationship visa problems....
Climb 20 7A or harder including some in my anti style
yep, 22!
Climb 30+ 7's again
yep, 36!
10-14 days in a warmer climate over winter
fail - visa issues but got away alot
Climb x3 7c's
1 7c, 4 7b+s
did good safe trad instead, the pick being:
White Wall, Bob Hope, Slanted and Enchanted, Goosey, Calamity Crack, Bat out of Hell, Bath house Pink.
Plan a big trip for 2020
yep
Sort out visa issues which is preventing trips
YYFY
gonna give myself all greens since the visa situation is sorted and i replaced some aims with alternate trad successes :)
-
That sort of form variance is enough to call his entire climbing CV into question, I'd say.
I was trying Great Flake early in the morning though. ;)
-
Is that somewhere near action direct?
-
Broke my arm pretty badly in March trying to onsight Demolition at Sennen (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33153).
Appropriate name! Good effort going for the onsight, I've done the routes either side and had a squizz across, but never had a go at it..
-
Not sure if I posted these here or only on an (inferior) alternative rock touching based forum, so here is a re-cap:
- 'Remain' injury free. I've got a finger niggle that I need to rehab and constant elbow prehab/rehab work to do.
The initial 'finger niggle' took a while to shake but is now fine. It was however somewhat overshadowed by a knee injury (sustained while hiking because I couldn't climb... :wall:) and now a shoulder injury. I didn't really get outdoors for the first 6 months of the year, then was fairly restricted (no left heel hooks) for a couple months before being able to fully go for it again.
- Boulder 7b outdoors. I was close to sending 7a this year but not quite. So 7b seems reasonable?
Not yet. The first 6months set me back a fair whack. I have since sent a nice 'pyramid' of 7a's (a couple within an hour or so of trying for first time). Also a (questionable, or perhaps its just me sandbaging myself on the grade maths) 7a+ or two. Due to missing out on so much outdoor potential when i did get out i was happy finding my feet back on rock and haven't been in 'siege mentality'. The closest I came was falling off the last real move (before easy top out) on 'Baptiste' (7b+) in Magic Wood. This was fairly gutting. I didn't try it until the 2nd last day... Thought it was way beyond me due to the grading and seeing climbers I consider stronger than myself have to battle it. When I jumped on it I quickly worked out I could do all the moves. It's a bit of an endurance boulder and the crux is near the end. I'm pretty sure if i went hunting for a 7b that really suited me and sieged it on repeated visits I could do it. But my mindset for the moment isn't on projecting. Just on being outdoors, enjoying climbing.
- Climb outdoors as much as possible. 30+ days?
Giving myself a pass for this one. As thing's stand (after effectively missing 6 months) I'm at 9 days hiking, 5 nights wild camping and 28 days bouldering! :D
- Have 1+ overseas climbing trip. Probably Font or Magic Wood.
Awesome 2 week trip to Magic wood, with a couple days at Chironico and a brief stop at Font on way home. Also hopefully going to sneak in a Font at the very end of this year / over New Year.
- Progress to full Front Lever. Currently I can only hold slightly extended from tuck. Or one leg tucked, one almost extended.
Pretty sure this was only on my list when I had my finger injury as a distraction from climbing. Something to focus on upstairs in the climbing gym when I couldn't do max hangs or limit bouldering. Needless to say I completely forgot about it when I could return to bouldering... Think it'll probably remain on the bottom of every future list I make always to be forgotten... Not sure if that is the point of lists but never mind :-\ :thumbsup:
-
Thanks Cheque.
Sport: 8a+ - Have chosen GBH, think the moves suit me and have the beta, will see how it goes with travelling and psyche.
Boulder: 7B+/C - I’ve not bouldered harder than 7B and I think this is holding me back on the harder Peak Lime routes.
Trad: Good mileage on E3 and E4 - a long weekend ticking the mid-grade classics at Pembroke, the Pass and Gogarth. Feel safe, get the love back. Try boat to Naxos on a top-rope if Ram goes back on his route.
DWS: Mark of The Beast, Wizard of Oz Traverse with dinghy party & attempt new route.
Belaying: 9a belay (current best 8c+). Also, as a long-shot, belay Simon on a season PB on the Oak.
Other: Buy house, get Job, free Murciana ‘78 on the Bulnes.
Good luck and Happy New Year UKB, still providing the goods. Thread of year = Poo-gate
Failed on all of them except house and job :)
-
Sport: Something in the 8a/+ region in Yorkshire. Zoolook is the obvious one I've not yet done.
More in the Peak. An 8 at the Tor would be great.
Bouldering: try and get back up to 7b/+. Not fussed what.
Trad: yeah, whatever...
Epic fail on all fronts. A weird wrist injury meant no real training for the first 6 months of the year. Did (admittedly very soft) 7c in a session but no harder routes this year. Got stuck on a 7c+ which I know I can do, but it was a great learning process in the redpointing art.
Barely bouldered outside, more due to injury and routes than anything else.
More importantly I'm winning my fight with the mental demons, so if I can stay physically fit next year should be better.
-
* climb any one of my top 3 ongoing challenges err, obviously i mean routes that spanked me in 2018: L'adrecador, Flix flax at Terradets or Los Incredulos at Chulilla.
* Finish the Yorkshire Triple Crown
* Do some remaining routes in Gordale, Pierrepoint, Perfect Mirage (?)
* The Big Apple (or failing that find another decent Peak 8a)
* Climb some trad: nothing at all in 2018, so realistically getting a couple of E4/5 classics done would be ideal, but the more the better - plenty to do in the lakes or pembroke
Massive failure of all of them, unfortunately. Raging carpal tunnel syndrome and a subsequent operation screwed up most of the summer. Operation success but have managed to acquire a really odd finger injury shortly after starting climbing again.
Best 2019 is getting quite a few 7cs done quickly, in the peak and spain. Praying for an injury free 2020.
-
Do tell...
-
1. Move south - YES! Very positive step. Even in this ultra-wank autumn/winter, I'm constantly relieved to be here instead of Glasgow
2. Climb / travel more - No. Took me months before I even got to Wales properly. Trad head mostly mediocre, too much redpointing on lime, not enough exploring. Except Welsh bouldering exploration went ace.
3. Keep healing / improve health - Partial. Healed my tennis elbows reasonably well. But digestive system is STILL broken, some minor improvement but nowhere near normal. Still looking into this...
Fucking rivetting eh.
MEH. Whatfuckingever.
-
Do tell...
Wall left of strawberry seal on BH, potentially holdless
-
Decent tide this week, I'll go for a look
-
Training Goals
Get below 80kg for March trip
10-second front lever
Complete McColl's silly 10-10-10 challenge
Complete at least three 6-week phases of max-hangs over the year
Didn't do or try any of these...
Climbing Goals
Boulder 7C in Macedonia
Boulder 7C+
Macedonia aim didn't happen, only climbed up to 7A+. If I hadn't had two major injuries this year, maybe 7C+...
Life Goals
Move to the States
YYFY, managed this one. Much closer to amazing climbing and skiing!
-
Decent tide this week, I'll go for a look
Just you and Ken there in wet suits, the frogmen of Torbay.
-
- Redpoint another 7c, probably at Ban-Y-Gor, Brean is also an option. I'd love to get New Dawn done but it's a long way from home, worth a couple of weekends if I'm feeling fit.
Didn't do any real redpointing at all this year. I fact, I hardly did any UK sport climbing.
- Mileage on 7a and 7b on Spain trip in February. It would be great to flash a 7b, but I'd settle for second or third go. Flashing a few 7as would be a good trip.
Great trip to Siurana. Fantastic weather and temps, good company and loads of good routes done. Got lots of 7a mileage and did a few harder things quite quickly. Got spanked by a 7a+ at Sirunella Central but returned and got it.
- the one that goes in every year. Onsighting some of the big E5s, Pembroke, Right Wall, Pacemaker etc. I didn't quite get to this fitness last year.
Did quite a few, and several others second go/after seconding them. Onsighting Black Magic at Pentire was probably the highlight of the year. Went down to do Darkinbad, got a bit scared of breaking my legs on the start so had a speculative look at Black Magic, fully expecting to get shut down. Didn't read the description carefully which helped. Also did Ships That Pass in the Night, Head Hunter, Get Some In, Mean Streak and a sneaky headpoint of Orange Robe burning. Messed up the gear on Right Wall and bailed, but will return.
- Support SO into fulfilling employment. WIP already.
Employment is suffering from some teething problems, but basically a win and will improve further with time.
- Lose a few kg, stay under 75.
Mostly, I think I might have put on some weight the last couple of months though!
- Regular running (min 5km per week) and min 1 session fingerboarding per week.
Hardly any running, and not regular enough with the fingerboarding.
-
- Redpoint another 7c, probably at Ban-Y-Gor, Brean is also an option. I'd love to get New Dawn done but it's a long way from home, worth a couple of weekends if I'm feeling fit.
Didn't do any real redpointing at all this year. I fact, I hardly did any UK sport climbing.
- Mileage on 7a and 7b on Spain trip in February. It would be great to flash a 7b, but I'd settle for second or third go. Flashing a few 7as would be a good trip.
Great trip to Siurana. Fantastic weather and temps, good company and loads of good routes done. Got lots of 7a mileage and did a few harder things quite quickly. Got spanked by a 7a+ at Sirunella Central but returned and got it.
- the one that goes in every year. Onsighting some of the big E5s, Pembroke, Right Wall, Pacemaker etc. I didn't quite get to this fitness last year.
Did quite a few, and several others second go/after seconding them. Onsighting Black Magic at Pentire was probably the highlight of the year. Went down to do Darkinbad, got a bit scared of breaking my legs on the start so had a speculative look at Black Magic, fully expecting to get shut down. Didn't read the description carefully which helped. Also did Ships That Pass in the Night, Head Hunter, Get Some In, Mean Streak and a sneaky headpoint of Orange Robe burning. Messed up the gear on Right Wall and bailed, but will return.
- Support SO into fulfilling employment. WIP already.
Employment is suffering from some teething problems, but basically a win and will improve further with time.
- Lose a few kg, stay under 75.
Mostly, I think I might have put on some weight the last couple of months though!
- Regular running (min 5km per week) and min 1 session fingerboarding per week.
Hardly any running, and not regular enough with the fingerboarding.
Nice season.
-
Enjoyed reading these so far!
- complete Yorkshire Triple Crown, weather permitting. Rolling this over to next year as I didn't even try Urgent or The Groove.
- fill in a few gaps on the long term goal of ticking the left wall at Malham. GBH and Baboo would be nice. Just about sneak into acceptable levels of effort here. Did Space Invaders and had a few sessions playing on Baboo.
- investigate Cry Freedom or Bat Route. Taking the tick on this. Cry Freedom will have to wait a few years though!
- go trad climbing a bit more to keep my hand in. Go to the Lakes especially for this. A few days in the Lakes and a few on the grit. Main trad partner these days is VS climbing girlfriend which makes doing E's impossible. Did some great routes though and it was nice to change it up from the bolt clipping.
- sort out work to hopefully allow significantly more flexible working and/or some part time, remote work for a set amount per year. Equally perfectly willing to sack it off so hopefully a half reasonable negotiating position! Starting remote working in January so will see how that goes. Any tips from people to ensure I remain at least halfway productive would be appreciated...
- get plans in place for a long Spain trip towards the end of the year. Having just returned from said trip, I think this counts as a success. A great few months filling out the pyramid and generally avoiding redpointing like the plague. Its fucking cold back in the UK though. :boohoo:
[/quote]
-
Not sure setting annual goals while slightly ill, slightly injured and very under-exercised is the best time but equally maybe it is:
Really would like to do more trad, the wish list is long and dreams are of long wall pitches on sunny mountain days (but not of faffing with gear and route finding and constantly shitting it and painful feet, none of that reality thank you very much). I'm sure if I could get slick with gear again then E5 is possible, but it always comes down to availability of partners and using your time effectively so convenient sport wins too often. Realistically, say, 10 trad days.
2/3 UK mountain/coast long weekends would no doubt help the above
Knock a couple off the Peak Sport WIPs list, will no doubt add some too but aim to finish the year with a net loss.
Complete a Kilnsey route - always fee like the kid in a sweet shop when I go, always use bad tactics and always get spanked meaning I have an unfinished route at every grade from 7a+ to 7c+. Maybe I should employ some logic and work up rather than down
Perhaps I should put New Dawn on if it's so good, always thought the Peak had the 7c jewel in Too Old Too Be Bold but I'm prepared to be proved wrong
As Sammy Hagar said
Red! I want red, there's no substitute for red.
Red! Paint it red, green ain't mean compared to red.
Not to say the year was a complete write off, early in the year I realised I couldn't be good at everything simulatenaupsly at the same time and decided to concentrate on bouldering which I was enjoying at the time.
Didn't quite achieve my revised goal of 7C but made a dent in it, feell like I'm prepping well to manage it next year.
-
I think you’ve been bouldering really well this year Nai. The few times I’ve been out with you (apart from Rubicon 😂) you’ve been climbing really well. Powerful, directed and getting some good ticks!
-
Oh dear that half hour really did leave an impression :sorry:
I was powerful and direct later at The Tor, though. That was first dabble on Cave Problem which subsequently became high point of the year grade wise.
-
Well after pretty much a twelve year lay off, with a short return six years ago, I am now properly back on it and going into my second year bouldering again, so in no particular order, except the first one, I should record my goals so I can be pilloried when I fail to achieve them.
Still be bouldering this time next year, not having let life get in the way. Most definitely still bouldering and loving it.
Get solid on the Campus Board at 1-4-7 on small holds and 1-5-8 on the large and medium holds or even 1-5-8.5 if going well. Got reasonably close over the summer but then it all went to rats and couldn’t campus at any of my benchmarks, which led to me not really being bothered. On the list for next year I reckon.
Hang bodyweight on Lattice Rung by March (achieved 19/2/19 for 5 seconds per arm) and plus 5 kilos on each arm by end of year. Didn’t get this but fingers remained there or thereabouts. Need more discipline and maybe a bit more prioritisation.
Hang bodyweight on BM2K small edges on each arm. Fair way off yet.
Sort left shoulder out so that I can get OAP plus 5 kilo on left arm as well as on right. Shoulder is definitely much better, not quite but close enough. Seem to have developed a whole new set of bits that don’t work so well.
Crack 8A again on Yorkshire Grit with Zoo York being a likely candidate of something that I haven’t done before. Massively overestimated my potential. Back to the drawing board. Closest I got was the Depot 50 replica a couple of times, which although a good problem is a world away.
Have another crack at Cherry Falls forgetting about the dozens of sessions that I spent not doing out twelve years ago. I couldn’t do it 15 years ago, so have no doubt I won’t do it now.Stupid to ever think I could
Get back on the Bowderstone and repeat the classics that I’ve done before, specifically Inaudible Vaudeville, Grand Opera and Improper Opera. Paid a visit, it was wet……still there next year.
Climb in Parisella’s or elsewhere in North Wales at least twice in the year. Fail
Get onto Peak Lime bouldering with sessions at Rubicon and Tor as a minimum. Do things I haven’t done before at both of 7C or harder. Fail
Get familiar with some of the harder stuff on the Depot 50 Board. Started to get into it in the summer and was started to progress but then lack of effort led to stalling. Being able to do all/some/any of the moves on Lobster Claw would be good. Some, maybe two moves I couldn't do at some point in the year but lots of moves I only managed once.
Move house, build a board to rival my old one. Decided to stay put so no board but do have the time to get on a board whenever I want.
Find new off piste in Mayrhofen in January to ride. (The snow was so deep we didn’t need to go off piste but found some fabulous waist deep stuff on the run down to the new lift) Shouldn’t be a problem in Tignes in February as first trip there so everything will be new. (Conditions not the best but find some really good stuff but also end up on a hard steep face not really knowing where we were going) As an aside to this: don’t trash base of new snowboard. (A couple of minor scratches but no more)
Finish Transvulcania Half Marathon within an hour of Mrs B. Did manage to finish within an hour, in fact manage to finish nearly an hour ahead of her, although she did fall twice and came round the corner to the finish holding her bleeding chin that then needed stitches.
Plan post retirement trip. Had a few trips; Scotland, Albarracin but most spectacular back to Whistler with Mrs B, throwing in a couple of days in Vancouver. Awesome. Have also booked Barcelona Marathon next year and if Mrs B doesn’t get a place in the NY Marathon, the plan is Nepal for three weeks. Reckon that's just about ticked
Have fun……………actually that one should be up there as one not to miss. Had loads and loads of fun and been a great year although the black dog still comes around occasionally.
Let’s see what the year brings.
Overall enjoyed the year but really do need to make the effort and get outside much much more. Think I only managed a few days in Albarracín and a couple of days in Yorkshire.
-
Being able to do all/some/any of the moves on Lobster Claw would be good. Some, maybe two moves I couldn't do at some point in the year but lots of moves I only managed once.
I dream of one day doing a move, any move, no matter how easily lanked, that Tim Palmerstrong would rate as "steady".
-
Gollum - cherry falls seems mega conditions dependant. I was there (working the keel) in the snow when Martin Smith did it.. and had been there previously when he was trying it in good but less good connies...
-
Gollum - cherry falls seems mega conditions dependant. I was there (working the keel) in the snow when Martin Smith did it.. and had been there previously when he was trying it in good but less good connies...
Cheers TT.
I must have tried it hundreds of times, both before Tim did it and after. I got close, hit the break quite a lot but never held it.
Think it’s in the “ones that got away” category these days.
-
Great to read everyone else's posts. Getting psyched for the Best of thread! Congratulations and commiserations for all your respective wins/fails.
Good year! :)
-- >8hrs sleep every night
Having it. Couple of nights a week with less but definitely an overall improvement.
-- tick off more from This is Yorkshire
Managed one, maybe the best of them; Treebeard (contender for best boulder I've ever done...seriously, go do it). Only half a tick though as I put a lot of time into several others and came up short.
-- go sport climbing at least once
Hahahahaha
-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and Ribtickler
- Great big tick on Iron Man. A good run of conditions, psyche and fitness brought it all together.
- Three sessions on Lager. Fuck this thing. I just can't do it. Have now done The Flakes Sit, again almost out of pure frustration from a session on Lager.
- Left Ribtickler until the end of September for fear of too warm connies, after 2018's mid-heatwave and inevitable failure/injury fiasco. Felt good on it, doing the crux more easily than I've ever done, and then it chucked it down and never got a chance to go back and finish it off.
-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up
107 as of today. Pretty chuffed with that, best ever year for volume. As a side-tick, managed 102 days climbing outside (with a few days still to go hopefully), on 7 different rock types, which is totally arbitrary but great to look back on; particularly as I can see such freedom being curtailed in the not so distant future. Very lucky to live in the age of flexible working.
-- >25% of the above to be 7C and up
Did 30, so 28%. Even more chuffed with that. Only a couple of link ups as well, otherwise all good independent lines.
-- 7C on the Depot 50
Not even close, despite going about as well as I ever have at various points of the year. One day.
-
I think you’ve been bouldering really well this year Nai. The few times I’ve been out with you (apart from Rubicon 😂) you’ve been climbing really well. Powerful, directed and getting some good ticks!
hope you made sure he brushed them off after! :blink:
-
Decent tide this week, I'll go for a look
Wetsuits? What's the matter with you. I saw Ken at Berry head this summer. He told me to buy a canoe. Not sure what that says about his view of my climbing.
Just you and Ken there in wet suits, the frogmen of Torbay.
-
2019 goals
.......
remember that it's all a bit of a laugh and doesn't matter anyway.
Pretty much gave up climbing in May. I could blame this injury and that but really the weakest muscle in the body is in the mind. Someone got in my head that climbing is bullshit and grades and experience does or doesn’t matter (I forget which) and that’s all very well but if you lose your grade chasing performance metric mojo and don’t replace it with something then what are you left with? Not being jazzed for climbing that’s what.
Maybe I’ll get back into it next year but it seems a mountain to climb just to get back where I was hanging out before.
Merry Christmas all and keep up the good work.
-
Pretty much gave up climbing in May. I could blame this injury and that but really the weakest muscle in the body is in the mind. Someone got in my head that climbing is bullshit and grades and experience does or doesn’t matter (I forget which) and that’s all very well but if you lose your grade chasing performance metric mojo and don’t replace it with something then what are you left with? Not being jazzed for climbing that’s what.
The fuck I’ll let you get away with that horse cock!
I’ll be coming for you in the new year, you’d better be ready
Merry Christmas :tease:
-
One of: 7C/8a/E5 or anything off my unfinished business list
Failed on all of these. Not a good year for climbing, lots of injuries and a lack of trips.
-
Effectively halfway there now.
- tick 5 problems off the “why have you still not done these yet?” list [2 down]
- put in 5 sessions on a good 8A+/B [A big fat tick! although the problem actually took 4 sessions...]
- tick 5 problems off the board list [only one down, close on 3 others]
- climb something at Malham [hasn't really crossed my mind since writing it...]
- 5 sec one arm hang the BM 10’s [zero deadhanging this year, still time though]
Having managed my main aim for the year, anything else just feels like a victory lap really.
- tick 5 problems off the “why have you still not done these yet?” list [Tick, kinda easy when the list is so big]
- put in 5 sessions on a good 8A+/B [A big fat tick! managed a mint 8A+ and laid the groundwork on various other hard stuff. Big psyche]
- tick 5 problems off the board list [two down, and very close on about 4 others, relatively little board climbing this year due to injuries]
- climb something at Malham [Finally made it to Malham. Dogged two easy sevens and one notorious 8b... didn't even bother trying anything clean]
- 5 sec one arm hang the BM 10’s [Not tried recently but I doubt it. Picked up two bad finger injuries in June which I've only recently properly recovered from, so no dedicated fingerboarding this year... Surprisingly managed RH 6+ secs on the BM2K small edges a few weeks ago though, which is promising]
omitting injury time, I felt like I was climbing better than ever this year, looking forward to seeing how 2020 goes.
-
Abide by the rules: :rtfm:
1. Take at least 3 complete rests of 7-10 days during the year and every 3-4 weeks have an easier (non-training) week
2. Minimum of 2 deadhang sessions a week except on planned easy weeks, rest weeks and trips
3. Only commit to routes and problems that I genuinely think I can do within 4 sessions in a season (Oak excepted). 2 extra bonus days allowable if close on the send/redpoint
4. If I haven’t got past the horn on the Oak from the ground within 5 sessions then sack it off for the season
Pretty much stuck to the rules.
Do a one arm pull-up again
Just because
Felt tweaky when I started training for this so backed off. Bit of a daft aim anyway
The Oak
Prepare well mentally and physically over the next two months ready for when it next comes into condition
Prepped well enough but hampered by injury, seepage and illness in spring then the route getting wet as sending temps arrived in autumn
Find a part time job I’m psyched for
Possibly a role in the not-for-profit sector generating commercial revenue. Open to offers! Alternatively come to terms with semi retirement.
Had a few meetings and interviews but nothing worked out. Offered a job back in exec recruitment but thought better of it
Keep dancing...
Yes. Stuck at this. The last of two couples still going to the class
-
Someone got in my head that climbing is bullshit and grades and experience does or doesn’t matter (I forget which) and that’s all very well but if you lose your grade chasing performance metric mojo and don’t replace it with something then what are you left with? Not being jazzed for climbing that’s what.
Maybe I’ll get back into it next year but it seems a mountain to climb just to get back where I was hanging out before.
Merry Christmas all and keep up the good work.
Without trying to be too much of a sycophant, I've found some of the thinking and wisdom on the Fiendblog helpful during bouts of existential meltdown re. climbing, training, grades, motivations, progression, what's the point, etc. Good for getting things back into focus.
-
[1] Enjoy Siurana (and Margalef / Arboli etc) in January / February. I hope to tick a few nice F7 classics and regain some fitness lost during 4 months of (largely indoor) bouldering. But I will be happy to just see some sun and recover a little mojo after a long wet winter and a tricky few months of work.
Pass - not that enjoying myself in Spain is any great achievement! Very cold and windy weather meant I climbed whereever there was shelter and never really worked anything. 30+ routes; lots of flash / 2-go RP action. Still, happy with doing some great climbing (Avatar and L'imbecil stick out). Also, finally visited Montsant, which I really want to go back to; and, having a place in mind, which feels worth keeping in the game for, feels very valuable at the moment.
[2] Boulder outdoors a few times before the routes season begins. Various 7s on Yorkshire grit and Big Marine at C-y-L are ever-presents on the tick list. I would also like to visit a few further afield crags during work trips (Northumbria and the Peak especially), though that is beyond my control.
Pass(ish). I reawakened my love of bouldering, with the help of thenew Lakes guide, albeit sadly at the expense of routes. Did some nice problems but not as many as I would have liked before getting shut down by wet weather. Still, a pass for effort if not achievement
[3] Spring & Autumn: get on a new Malham project, as I've lost all enthusiasm for Predator. Perhaps try Well Dunne Finish (trying to relearn Zoolook could be a good way to regain fitness), or maybe get on the Groove.
Got on Main Overhang as a "get back fit" project but Malham got wet and then hot annoyingly early, and by the time cooler conditions came I had lost enthusiasm for routes. I'll hopefully get back on it next Spring... not holding out much hope of trying anything harder though... Malham is a fickle mistress
[4] Summer: get on a new 8a+/b Kilnsey project, I've not done Bullet, Full Tilt, Ecstasy, Vanilla Path, or the Ripper but none of them currently fill me with any great enthusiasm; hopefully a candidate will emerge (any suggestions welcome).
Technically a pass but only because I set such a low bar! I'd already lost enthusiasm for routes so got on Bullet, the extension to Man With a Gun, mainly for social reasons, and with no great sense of mission to actually do it. Eventually managed it in my usual faintly hapless and unexpected manner with a rain-soaked top making clipping the belay an unexpectedly prolonged and harrowing experience!
[5] Visit non Malham or Kilnsey crags; I had good sessions at Hollywood Bowl and Gordale last year. That again plus re-visiting Chapel Head Scar and some Peak lime would do nicely.
Total fail
[6] Maintain midweek training efforts: hangboard, woodie sessions, TRX.
A pass but could / should have done better. Managed a TRX and a hangboard session most mid-weeks; not been on the woodie a while but got some new holds for Christmas that will hopefully help rekindle my mojo for it
"Life"
[1] Less booze; eat better [insert maniacal laughter gif].
I gave up alcohol completely for 7 months... back drinking again now - plan to abstain for January and see how it goes from there. Ate more - and now a stone heavier than last year (I must be one of the few people who got heavier when going booze free) - probably for the best re long-term health but might require a down-grade of next year's aims
[2] Less aimless web browsing: be more efficient at work (less needless long evenings in the office), read more at home [insert gif of man repeatedly headbutting a wall].
Mixed results. Still lots of aimless web browsing but mainly at home - so more efficient at work with less late nights there. Neutral results for reading - uptick when booze free, not so much now
[3] Don't let work get on top of me [insert gif of a semi-nude Harvey Keitel in the Bad Lieutenant swigging vodka and weeping].
as Greg Lemond said, "It never gets easier, you just get faster"
-
I managed my main climbing objectives of the year, but am finishing on a bit of a performance and fitness low. I feel like I could have kept the momentum going and maybe achieved more but wasn’t to be. Feels like a long road back but I’m sure not as bad as it seems! Looking forward to feeling a bit healthier.
Sport climbing
Climb Fighting Torque. Number one goal; if I do this I’ll be happy, even if I do nothing else.
Done! Was the highlight of the year, and most certainly a lifetime peak in fitness and performance.
Get back to some of my less frequently visited crags, Anstey’s, Cheddar etc. Tick off more routes from the old list. Climb Ninja Warrior, Circus Finale, Directoonima. Try Academic, Cider Soak again.
I did get back to these crags, but not as much as I would have liked. Did Ninja Warrior, but didn’t try anything else from the list.
Climb significantly more routes above 7a than last year.
Climb significantly more routes of any grade than last year.
Definitely did this. Had a low bar!
Bouldering
Cycle back to strength and power training after climbing Fighting Torque.
Main goal: Riders on the Storm. Step up in grade for me, but absolutely my style, probably best chance of climbing 7C at my current ability.
Didn’t even try. Distracted by other things I suppose. Not close to good enough now.
Tick off something from my ‘fuck-me-this-is-impossible’ sandbag list: Work Shy, Stompin’ with Bez, Full Power.
None of those. Did Ladies Night but that’s certainly the easiest of the boulders I had in mind.
Try Ope in Hell at least once.
As it cools down later in the year, go to Dartmoor. Try Foal’s Chopper again.
Didn’t do this at all.
Go to Font in spring (if Brexit doesn’t make this impossible).
Good trip and ticked off Beatle Juice, main goal.
Climb significantly more problems over 7A than last year.
Low bar again.
DWS
Summer – climb anything above water, should be able to combine trip to Fisherman’s ledge with outing with the wife and her family.
One session doesn’t really count, didn’t get up anything.
Training
Number one goal: Maintain consistency.
Continue regular supplementary fingerboard stuff.
Cycle training in vaguely structured manner (this is sort of a plan to plan).
Tale of two halves of the year. Moving work from Portsmouth to Dorchester meant easier evening access to outdoor boulders but the weather recently has been so poor, and training has really suffered. Stopped posting on power club because was getting a bit depressing.
General life
Reduce overall use of screens. Discovered Screen Time on iPhone recently. Quite shocking the amount of wasted time. To that end:
1) No TV at least every other day during the week. I never missed TV when I didn’t own one, somehow has become evening habit.
2) Stop obsessively checking phone during any moment of down time. I’ll try replace with reading journals when I’m at work. Big habit to break, I have definitely become a phone addict, a feature I tend to dislike in others.
Leading on to - Sleep hygiene (again!). No phone use 1 hour before going to bed. Ideally have cut off at 2100 or something like that.
Yoga most days.
Would like to trial meditation, see if I get any benefit from it!
Read more books.
Call parents once a week.
Donate blood maximum number of times.
Back to non-Christmas diet (this will be easy).
Back to minimal alcohol (this will be easy when not at parent's or in law's).
Longer term: Re-evaluate my relationship with meat. Increasingly of the opinion that some degree of vegetarianism/veganism is ethically correct with regards to the environment, but I’m just not there yet. Reduce consumption at very at least.
I’ve been pretty rubbish at all of this, again mostly in last few months after a reasonable start. This year hopefully will be a bit more co-ordinated with family and try a bit harder!
Work life
Apply for job from August.
Dedicate time every week to continued learning of some sort.
Got the job at least!
-
Well blimey - a good argument for modest goal-setting...
Quite simple for me, 3 x new 7a problems outside.
Ticked - technically 2, though the stand and the sit to a problem at Church Crag. Also did Mike's Arete at Blackstone Edge in pretty short order a couple of months ago on a great day out with my daughter and some of the UKB crew.
Also did The Lushering that day from the proper sit start, but don't think I can really take that as I've done it all bar pulling by arse off the ground before.
Life-wise, I'd like to be less grumpy / more patient with my kids
I'm taking this as a tick. I keep meaning to post on this in the Black Dog thread but back in June / July in finally bit the bullet and went to my GP to admit that I wasn't coping very well. 6 months into SSRI use and can definitely see an improvement.
[/size]
At some point move house to somewhere bigger. Seems like everyone's holding their breath till after Brexit though, nothing out there that fits the bill for us at the moment.
Well it's up for sale - but not a great deal of interest as I predicted. Hoping the onset of 2020 breathes some life into the market.
-
Being perfectly honest, I had a great six months of the year where everything was on track and I felt happy and fulfilled, and then I had a week off where I thought ‘a few beers couldn’t hurt’ and it was pretty much all downhill from there.
-
2019 is going to be a year of ticking stuff.
20 7ANYTHING (inc Help the Young / Benchmark / Beach Ball / Mark’s Roof / Boyager)
Didn’t really get stuck into bouldering till later in the year, and then made the mistake of thinking that watching videos of various UKBers making things look easy would mean that I too would find them easy. But I did manage one 7A in Font, an actual thing at the Tor, and had fun trying lots of problems with daughter. We’re both focusing on boulders for 2020, so will probably carry this over.
20 7anything (inc Waves Become Wings / Violent Breed / Yorkshire Talk at the Promenade, plus Empire of the Sun / The Lynch at Ansteys)
10 Eanything
Routes became the main focus in 2019. It took over 6 months to figure out that Portland is my anti-venue. A great day at Torbryan in early summer led to a couple of visits to Anstey’s and finally ticked Empire which was totally brilliant. Finally felt that I was back to previous high point. Didn’t do enough trad (mainly down to lack of partners) but managed to tick The Asp in May, which was first E3 in 15 years and another major YYFY.
Get on 8a / 7B+ and reassess Project 8a
Tried some harder boulders in Font and elsewhere. King of the Swingers at Baric’s Roof felt like the 7B+ that might go down fastest. Didn’t really try any sport harder than Empire (apart from Empire Direct, which felt nails) but checked out a few things (Cider Soak / Avenged / Liquid Crystal / Seven Months Later, etc) and need to make a plan for progress. Alas, recent turbulent family events and the resultant lack of clarity re what I’m going to be doing / where I’m going to be living in 2020, coupled with general unfeasibility of productive sport climbing trips with 8 and 5 year old mean that we’ll focus on boulders for the short to medium term, and then maybe I can squeeze in some selfish sport in the autumn.
Family font trip at Easter, something in the summer, sport trip in the autumn
Try to wangle more mid-week Dorset / SW days, even if it’s just for solo shunting
Decent Font trip mid summer, and first time there for years. 43 days climbing outside - something that is unlikely to happen in 2020, but you never know. Missed out on sport trip, but lots of missions to SW, plus a few visits to the Peak.
Clear garage and get a board up asap
Didn’t happen and house will be up for sale before long. Unlikely to me moving anywhere with room for more than a fingerboard...
Get weight down to 80kg (or a touch lower)
Got down to 85, but has recently crept back up to 90+
147
1 arm pull-up
Shoulder injury just after I wrote this last year meant that sort of training was hampered for quite a lot of the year, but generally quite pleased about how training went.
Push on with yoga and stretching
Performed in a yogical manner sporadically. Will try to do a bit more next year,
Get deal for new book project
Got deal for first non-kids book. Alas, due to recent events I’m not entirely sure how I’m going to actually get it done, but still have 12 months to work this out.
Sell bicycles
Sold most of them,
buy motorbike
depending on whether I end up with room to store one, I am aiming for this in 2020 along with a host of other midlife crisis decisions / cries for help.
Finish kitchen (3 1/2 years and counting) Finally got working ovens installed after 4 1/2 years.
-
Funny to see how low I set the bar- first time I’ve ever had this much green! :dance1:
Take leader falls again.
Took some in March which felt like a big deal then, apart from an indoor fall practice session in October, just climbed well-protected trad for the rest of the year so only a few slumps and baby falls on that. I don’t feel like I’ve had “a bold head on” at any point but my confidence has increased and I don’t feel like I have any accident-related irrational falling fear left either which was my aim.
Leading HVS and low 6s and carrying normal loads to the crag by the end of September
Smashed this one- led 7a before the end of March, onsighted 6a in April. Hopeless at trad at that point still but worked my way back to competency. I still don’t have the strongest or most pain-free back in the world but can carry heavyish rucksacks and I’m still getting stronger.
Finish one or, ideally both of my new films.
Shot quite a bit of cool footage for the bouldering film but haven’t had the all-consuming psyche/ disinterest in personal climbing performance you need to get these things finished. Did literally nothing for the other one- forgot all about it until now! :lol:
Stretch and regain flexibility
Stretched almost every day and regained huge amounts of flexibility. “In the ballpark” of where I was before but still lots of work to do.
Capitalise on positives from 2018
Ticking this one too- I’ve lost a little bit of the fear that powered me through my rehab last winter but I still train hard, keep the faith in terms of sticking to training and make noises every time I climb. :look:
-
1. Climb a real™ 8b+. Don't care if it would be "No War" in Saint-Antonin or "Tennessee" in Gorges du Tarn (even if they are both 8b in the respective guide books).
2. Onsight a real™ 8a. I'm pretty sure that I've only done guide-book 8as onsight. A real one would be well satisfying. If I manage goal 1, goal 2 should be fairly easy.
I went on an o/s trip for a few days after managing goal 1. I was in probably my best shape since 2015, but I was shit at onsighting since I've only climbed on two routes for most of the winter (always the same warm-up route, then attempts on the project). I did almost mangage my intermediate goal of three 7c onsights in a day, falling touching the clipping jug on the last of the day.
Did not try onsight a lot after that as we did not much go to new crags where that would make sense. The closest I got was likely to fall on the last move getting to the no-hands ledge that marks the end of difficulties of Jack of All Trades, 29, Waterval boven. And I'm also sceptical that Jack of All Trades is a real™ 8a. In fact, I can't really recall going for more than two 8a's this year. The only other 8a I tried o/s was No Guaranty in Leipi shan, an extension of a 7c called Papercut, where I promptly fell on the first move after the 7c anchor...
-
Focus this year is to maintain bouldering power and seek some climbing balance.
- Five 7C+'s or higher (this would be a new pb) fail, only managed 2. Very close to doing another 2 or 3 mind
- Three sport routes off my list (will have to drag myself away from the Bowderstone) fail, did no sport
- Three decent trad routes (completely failed before so lets keep it simple) fail, just did highballs
- In the words of M. Katz, "always do something". Less of the TV watching and more reading, writing, stretching etc. I watched Love Island this year so another fail for that alone
- Fingerboard. I have never really done this and I think it's starting to show through as a main weakness. did a bit when I borrowed 36 Chambers' beastmaker when he was in Rocklands. Climbed my hardest lime boulders to date so probably helped but need to be consistent
- Take more holiday went on some nice holidays which were all non climbing
oh dear
-
1. Look after myself mentally and physically (see 2-4). Very non-specific but I’ll know it when I see it.
Mixed. Things got a lot worse before they got better. Sometimes it’s got to be like that.
I exercised on 359 days this year, did my shoulder strength work assiduously, got into fingerboarding properly for the first time in my life, and didn’t get any tweaks (cracked wrist and injured elbow bashing into rocks, but they were more-or-less random events).
Looking after my mental health was a much bigger challenge. I took several hits which, individually I could probably have coped with but were, collectively, too much. I have always been able to rely on climbing out of low mood but not this time: a big red flag. Finding confidence on rock considerably affected was also new, it’s usually my strongest suit (many thanks to Fiend, who had some good words to say about this). Everything improved quite suddenly around six weeks ago; with the odd dip I’ve been much better. I think mainly because I could see the causative factors ebbing away.
2. Change my work status.
As of three weeks ago, pretty much where I want to be work-wise, so that’s a big tick. Shame it’s taken ill-health to focus some people’s minds.
3. Spend a lot more time (like more than 19 nights) in the hills or by the sea. Should be able get away for weekends rather than day trips from April, however may need to spend some of these in Weston-super-Mare (see 7) which won’t count. It would be great to climb in North Wales for the first time in more than a decade.
65 days out of London including three trips to North Wales and several new-to-me places. I should try to sustain this in 2020.
4. Make a decent fist of being a dad.
Difficult one as I’ve been remote parenting much of the year. Time together was great, normalish service will resume shortly.
5. A classic Pembroke E5 (Wall of Prey would be even better).
Not close. Got my usual E4 ticks but life and injury curtailed climbing from there on. Had the trad. mileage but didn’t have the fitness or the mental fortitude.
6. Continue to tick my teenage wish-list with Scenic Cruise in the Black. Bonus points for other western US destinations from Climb! (https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=22463307643&searchurl=sortby%3D17%26an%3DDudley%2BChelton%252C%2BBob%2BGodfrey%252C%26ds%3D20&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title7) and Master of Rock (https://www.amazon.co.uk/John-Gill-Master-bouldering-legend-ebook/dp/B07KBQ6LFM/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1542874890&sr=1-2&keywords=John+Gill%3A+Master+of+Rock).
A decent or better stab at all these.
7. RP 7b+ (The Jimi Hendrix Experience?). Finish the job on Empire... and Paradise Lost.
Not close. Minimal sport: I find working routes and red-pointing quite mentally demanding and this wasn’t the year for pushing myself.
8. Fall off a 5.13 (7c+).
[/quote]
Nope
Onwards and outwards in 2020.
-
Without trying to be too much of a sycophant, I've found some of the thinking and wisdom on the Fiendblog helpful during bouts of existential meltdown re. climbing, training, grades, motivations, progression, what's the point, etc. Good for getting things back into focus.
Crikey, that's nice / surprising to hear. Always nice if the waffling has some meaning for someone else. Maybe it's because I'm a semi-permanent state of low-level existential meltdown and try - mostly successfully - to stay psyched despite that.
-
Great post Duncan.
-
2018 wasn't a terrible year but I spent much of it sieging a few 7C's and coming far too close, but failing to send. This year I plan to get to some different venues and build a decent pyramid along the way. Hopefully with a decent pyramid and some training blocs I can get 7C ticked.
Bouldering
7C - achieved sent 5 7Cs and a few slash graded problems (so probably 7B+s!)
10 7B's - achieved, sent 46 problems 7B and upwards, and 106 7A and upwards
Go on a trip to a new venue abroad
achieved managed to go to Rocklands, with a pulled finger unfortunately, but made the best of it.
50+ days outdoors achieved did 100+
Training Goals
Complete at least three 6-week phases of max-hangs over the year (stolen from coops) achieved
100 benchmarks on the Moonboard achieved managed to do this in January and it set me up really well for the rest of the year being more outdoors focused.
Pancake - pulled my groin last year when I nearly did this in box splits so should start working towards it again really. Failed
Work on mental game/tactics (feel this really held me back in 2018) I think I'm a little better here, but still alot to learn
Life
Work on sleeping habits
Still shit, but maybe a little better
Any of the ones on Paint it Black?
Gimmie a shout when you start working on this, had a few sessions last year on it and would be nice to get it finished off!
A really really good year in terms of achieving beyond what I expected, ticked a hell of a lot more than I expected to. Had some failures though, fallen off the easy parts of so much more than I've succeeded on, in particular a fair few 7C+s which would have been a nice way to top the year off!
-
2019 didn’t quite go as planned so many of these are red or orange just because life got in the way.
Always an exciting time of the year this! The last two years have been so good route climbing wise. This last year hasn’t been terrible for bouldering but I’m definitely struggling at this genre more than I have before. I can deal with it as long as I keep having route success, but it is something I will need to address.
Anyway my goals;
Heading to Spain for a couple of months so goals for that first as always. Didn’t get to spain as the timing belt on my van broke 2hrs off the ferry into Spain and destroyed the engine. So I came back home and spent the two months I had booked off buying and converting a new van and not climbing much. This was actually very satisfying in its own way plus I got to spend heaps of time with my girlfriend at an early stage in our relationship which was great
- Consolidate at 8a. Would be great to rattle some more off and a bit quicker than i have before. So far both the 8as I’ve done have taken 4 sessions though serpentine was actually done in about 6 goes up. So this is achievable. To do an 8a in a session would be amazing nope
- 7c onsight was very close to this a couple of years ago so this should be doable but o/sing is a fickle art form. Would love to flash 7c+ if one presents itself. nope
- I’d love to try something trickier for me like Mon Dieu, 8a+, at Oliana. Not so much about the grade (though maybe it holds some attraction) nope
My U.K. summer may be a little different to usual as I have a girlfriend who works one day if the weekend in Sheffield. I may well get less weekends away tradding. (A slightly terrifying prospect)
- Zoolook, Malham. I think we will maybe spend quite a bit of time at Malham as I really like it there. And I think it will suit Hannah’s strengths. Think this will be a big step up (maybe more so than Mon Dieu as a U.K. 8a that is nearly 8a+ is probably going to be harder than a euro 8a+) when I got back from my abortive Spain trip I had a go up zoolook but wasn’t quite yet in the flow of route climbing. Found it desperate and then when I got back to work I was on a really cool but very physical job installing lights onto bridges over the Thames. Running cable tray and cables under the soffit of one bridge was akin to slowly digging a horizontal sport route with a load of tools hanging off your harness day in day out for weeks on end. Core got strong but for the whole two month job I felt totally fucked
-Some other high 7/low 8s (New dawn/Defcon/Biological Need) Did Defcon and cave route left which were absolutely mega and tbh felt about the same grade. Had one session on new dawn when I got back from Spain and fell off where I always do. Did some other 7s. Thought Hannah was going to be more keen for sport than trad but due to getting scared preferred trad a lot of times
- More E6s. If I do Lord this year I’d be absolutely made up. Other E6s I’d like to do would include; Suicide Blonde, Grezelda/knock yourself out, The Cad, Pretty Girls, R&S Special. Ahh the list goes on. Be amazing to build on my first E6 onsights from last year Nope! Never really got the fitness or the mileage up to get on any E6s. Had a spell of cocking up even relatively steady E5s like poetry pink which was frustrating
- Do some Trad with Hannah and have fun, get her into it and enjoying it. She is an ace climber so she shouldn’t struggle. Would be ace if she could enjoy doing trickier things with me, rather than having a shit time, especially if she got into leading mid E-grades. If she’s not into doing trickier stuff with me I won’t push this. im gonna go with green on this as we have had some ace days out. She still gets scared but has put in some good seconding efforts top one being pacemaker at sharpnose as she did it clean and at the top to top out you traverse away from the belayer and she was really pumped and got committed but did it - mega!
-Bouldering. Really struggling with this this year. Be good to do some 7Bs again. I basically need to remember how to move like a boulderer. Maybe I need to find the love again, who knows but I’m struggling with it at the moment for whatever reason. my one real personal climbing success for the year!! Not sure what happened but something clicked and I got some good stuff done on both sides of the year. Including my long term projects west side and art of white hat wearing plus some other things I hadn’t tried much or at all. :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Hope everyone has a great year!
-
I have read that you need to write down your goals and tell people about them to put some pressure on yourself so here goes.
Goals for the year.
Routes - Redpoint 8a Nope. Got close in Flatanger with minimal training so dont think it would be that hard
Boulder outside - 7C and 50 new to me 7s ( guidebook grades, grovels and link ups allowed. Very much a quantity thing not quality)No where near. Did maybe half a dozen 7s but had pretty much stopped climbing by June.
Boulder School - 7C Nope. 7B on moonboard was best.
Training - 1-4-7, one arm hang BM2k slot for 5 secs, front lever, 2 x BW DL. 1.5 x BW BP. No to all but very close on DL
Work - drop to 4 day week from July. Things already in place to allow this to happen. Decided against this, really enjoying work and dont thing i would put the day i had envisaged going climbing to good use.
Life - Raise 30k to take 21 fifteen year olds on rugby tour to Japan for the world cup in October. 20k reached and flights booked. Been a time consuming challenge so far but will be worth it. Oh Yes and then some
Think its all more than possible now my life is getting a bit easier. Biggest task wont be physical but getting out enough to do the 50 7s.
Despite there being lots of red on the list i had an amazing year. Climbing and training started really well but then some major family stuff stopped play in March. Only just managed to clear this and get to Norway in April but with zero training the goal didnt go down. Nice to try an 8a again and realise they really are not very hard and a modicum of effort would get me up one.
Major changes then underway at work that took up all of the summer so i pretty much gave up trying to climb, probably been once a week since then max.
The highlight of the year though came from the Japan trip. 2 years of planning, 44k of fundraising and what ended up being a full time job, on top of the one i already have, saw me get 21 15 year old kids from little old Alnwick rugby club out to Tokyo on tour playing 4 Japanese schools and taking in the world cup. A truly amazing trip that other than England losing the final could not have got better. We even managed to get the whole team into the England training camp and meet the players, saw the All blacks beat wales, plus scored 24 tickets to the final.
Probably one of the most rewarding things i have ever done in my life and definitely worth missing out on a year of scrabbling up arbitrary bits of rock.
Finished the year celebrating my businesses 20th anniversary and winning Sheffield SME of the year.
All in all very happy.