UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Wellsy on April 13, 2023, 09:15:19 am
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Word on the street is that Will has done BoD...
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Is that word based entirely on Toru's use of the "🙌" emoji, or is there anything a bit more concrete out there?
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Which word on which street?
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Is that word based entirely on Toru's use of the "🙌" emoji, or is there anything a bit more concrete out there?
Spotted that and did wonder.
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Is that word based entirely on Toru's use of the "🙌" emoji, or is there anything a bit more concrete out there?
Someone posted on UKB about it
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I assume they're talking about the fourth image of this Instagram story. :shrug:
https://www.instagram.com/stories/saruzaemon9/3079621282829465419/
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I assume they're talking about the fourth image of this Instagram story. :shrug:
https://www.instagram.com/stories/saruzaemon9/3079621282829465419/
That is thin gruel. I got all excited about this this morning!
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I assume they're talking about the fourth image of this Instagram story. :shrug:
https://www.instagram.com/stories/saruzaemon9/3079621282829465419/
That is thin gruel. I got all excited about this this morning!
It would not be surprising if he had done it though. And his ascent of Alphane was rather daftly shrouded in secrecy until a big coordinated reveal, so at the moment this is all we have to go on!
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Toru already went home, he's just reminiscing on his trip and giving his mates a call out :lol:
The screenshot he posted seems to be from Will's really good go where he tickled the last hold from the start.
I remain unconvinced.
(https://external-preview.redd.it/rryJZrSWF9Lj19I1PzBYWi2CytpWhKL7Rd54xYd5mQI.jpg?auto=webp&s=6e75ff056970802cc686c7b7efba1ce95f9086c3)
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Will's done it.
Got up at 5am, left the gite on his own, met a Spanish dog at the crag who spotted him. No video footage unfortunately, phone didn't charge overnight. I heard it from the Spanish dog. Pedro says "el woofo".
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Take it all back
https://www.instagram.com/p/CrAtt4YtyXc/?hl=en
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CrAtt4YtyXc/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
(Far too late there!)
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First person to do two 9A? (could even be three I guess!)
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First person to do two 9A? (could even be three I guess!)
Beaten to that particular milestone by Shawn Rabotou (Alphane + Megatron) and Simone Lorenzi (Soudain Seul + Alphane). First person to repeat two 9As though, and interestingly both in pretty different styles.
https://climbing-history.org/list/17/strongest-male-boulderers
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Possibly the most significant repeat in recent history. What a hero Bosi is. Super interesting to see his live streams, but kinda glad he decided to stop doing them.
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It would not be surprising if he had done it though. And his ascent of Alphane was rather daftly shrouded in secrecy until a big coordinated reveal, so at the moment this is all we have to go on!
Nail on head. I don't begrudge it too much though if Lattice and whoever else have bankrolled his trip and made it feasible.
I recall having a discussion about this boulder last year and if I recall correctly, JWI was of the opinion that for someone to repeat this boulder in a single trip, they would need to be demonstrably better than Nalle was (generally climbing 8C boulders in a day). Now having climbed two 9A boulders in one trip each, 8C+ in a couple of days, and many 8B and 8B+ flashes, Will must be number 1 right now for bouldering, and I won't be surprised at an 8C flash soon enough.
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"Not as hard as Honey Badger"
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First person to do two 9A? (could even be three I guess!)
Not bad for a sports climber!!!!
Although part of me finds social media quite hard to swallow following his attempts has been fascinating. Considering most climbers just post their successes online I've got a lot of respect for what he's done. He could of failed.
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First person to do two 9A? (could even be three I guess!)
Beaten to that particular milestone by Shawn Rabotou (Alphane + Megatron) and Simone Lorenzi (Soudain Seul + Alphane). First person to repeat two 9As though, and interestingly both in pretty different styles.
https://climbing-history.org/list/17/strongest-male-boulderers
We've got some good combos going now, someone who's done two 9A FAs, someone who's repeated two 9As, and someone who's FA'd one and repeated one.
Even better, all the 9As have now been climbed by people who have either also done Alphane or have sunk a good bit of time into it (Daniel Woods, who obviously FA'd Return of the Sleep Walker). We could have a reasonable consensus of 9A now, if Alphane holds the grade...
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Effort Will. Been so good watching this happen over the trip and he’s showed how much goes into getting these things done.
I think this will be the first repeat of a proper 9A as alphane will get down graded and SS already has questions raised on the grade.
Most importantly it’s a proper boulder problem, we all know deep down that anything over 10/12 moves is a route.
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/04/first_repeat_of_burden_of_dreams_9a_by_will_bosi-73279
Some comments from Will on the other channel. Sounds like stiff 9A.
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Interesting to see a photo of the boulder from a wider angle, I pictured it more densely forested.
Funny isn't it (or maybe not) how firsts of the grade often turn out to be really hard for that grade.
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Interesting to see a photo of the boulder from a wider angle, I pictured it more densely forested.
It was previously, which may be where your mental image comes from. Bet it dries faster now!
https://youtu.be/sSZdTjOTFDE
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Is that word based entirely on Toru's use of the "🙌" emoji, or is there anything a bit more concrete out there?
top work from Toru - simul announcement and trolling of the entire bouldering community
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Interview with Climber
https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-gets-coveted-first-repeat-of-world-s-hardest-boulder-burden-of-dreams/
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alphane will get down graded
I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.
It would not be surprising if he had done it though. And his ascent of Alphane was rather daftly shrouded in secrecy until a big coordinated reveal, so at the moment this is all we have to go on!
Nail on head. I don't begrudge it too much though if Lattice and whoever else have bankrolled his trip and made it feasible.
At least this time it's been balanced out by the consistent sharing of the process throughout, which has been absolutely awesome to see.
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Interesting watching that old vid back and seeing Daniel Woods struggling just to hold individual positions never mind linking a move or two!
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I still don't believe he did it. There's no way he held that swing.
Re first of the grades always being hard... Someone famous has chatted about that recently I'm sure. Maybe will on the jamcrack? Saying that will always be the case as people are very reluctant to offer a new grade unless they are certain it will be.
Well done will.
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Shame the climber intoview says only say bosi and shawn have done 2 9as each, ignoring lorenzi who has said that he felt big island sit was harder than alphane... And shawn didn't seem to get on well with big island at all.
Edit 2**
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Interesting watching that old vid back and seeing Daniel Woods struggling just to hold individual positions never mind linking a move or two!
But in fairness, he hadn't spent 10 days working on a replica of the problem.
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Shame the climber intoview says only say bosi and shawn have done 3 9as each, ignoring lorenzi who has said that he felt big island sit was harder than alphane... And shawn didn't seem to get on well with big island at all.
Belgian's may be cool, but apparently they're easily ignored.
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alphane will get down graded
I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.
Will seemed reluctant to say 9A and suggested two 8C+s seemed harder. Lorenzi suggested it was easier than SS which has been suggested at 8C+ by one of the three ascensionists.
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It would great to hear from Nalle now. Perhaps the burden has lifted somewhat.
One thing that struck me from the Jam Crack podcast, was how Will was inspired to try BoD by Shaun and Aidan trying it, likewise Alphane. I wonder if they will be inspired or put off BoD now(?)
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Brilliant news. He mentioned a few things to do back in the UK. Would love to see a new 9A boulder in Scotland.
:popcorn:
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I have heard Scotland coming up a few times recently from more than one. Would be great to see. Pretty sure there must be some amazing stuff to do.
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Brilliant news. He mentioned a few things to do back in the UK. Would love to see a new 9A boulder in Scotland.
Surely "Scottish VS" would suffice, despite Gresh's eGrader?
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Amazing. Could fill an entire post full of these to describe it: :strongbench: , just really exciting news. I've appreciated Will's psyche and drive throughout from the board replica to the mission to do it to live streaming his efforts. And the conclusion is "Of course it's fucking 9A" . It would be nice to hear from Nalle, i hope he's (almost) as psyched as Will is!
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Burden feels iconic in the same way that Action Directe is. Both being first of the grade (shhh, re: Hubble); both being short and hard, with no tricks; both attracting the attention of the best; both demanding a bit more in terms of training. It's well cool that Will has made his mark here—I don't overly dislike the Mellow lot, but I think it's ace that the second ascent has gone to a humble, geeky, and distinctly less cool Scot.
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alphane will get down graded
I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.
Will seemed reluctant to say 9A and suggested two 8C+s seemed harder. Lorenzi suggested it was easier than SS which has been suggested at 8C+ by one of the three ascensionists.
He's literally just said it's soft 9A.
I think it's harder than Alphane but not much harder. I could see both being the same grade but Burden being solid and Alphane being soft.
Lorenzi said Alphane and Soudain Seul are both 9A:
My second of the grade
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Time for Shadowplay !
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Christ. I was just going to comment that it hadn't taken long for someone on UKC to mention Shadowplay.
The shadow of the G is long indeed.
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Fantastic effort Will. Between him and Aiden, it feels like climbing is coming home.
The shadow of the G is long indeed.
It has to be for us all to live in it.
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alphane will get down graded
I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.
Will seemed reluctant to say 9A and suggested two 8C+s seemed harder. Lorenzi suggested it was easier than SS which has been suggested at 8C+ by one of the three ascensionists.
He's literally just said it's soft 9A.
I think it's harder than Alphane but not much harder. I could see both being the same grade but Burden being solid and Alphane being soft.
Lorenzi said Alphane and Soudain Seul are both 9A:
My second of the grade
I was talking about alphane not burden.
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I mean seriously, the hardest, most famous boulder on the fucking planet is repeated by a bearded Scotsman and you lot are whinging about other 9A's.
It's fucking Burden of Dreams. The bouldering equivalent of repeating Silence. Fuck me, what an achievement. By Nalle and Will.
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Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special. How hard will 9A+ be?
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Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special. How hard will 9A+ be?
Maybe it Is 9A+?! With so many guys now bouldering at the highest level, and them teaming up I think bouldering is gonna go forward quickly.
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Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special. How hard will 9A+ be?
Not to take anything away from the achievement, but is that a realistic comparison? I mean both cry freedom and rainman have a huge number of moves and complexities to figure out, let alone the lack of videos to study, and replicas to train on. A session on an replica, of a 6 move problem, with videos to give you beta, is surely worth about 5 sessions of figuring out a route that's never been done?
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Interview with Randall https://open.spotify.com/episode/4F0rw3OCCtjOTO9pPCREGg
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I tried searching but to no avail. I'm sure it's been mooted on here at times who might do the first repeat of BoD and when. I don't think anybody had their money on the speccy Scottish kid :)
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there are a few posts scattered about, but this is probably what you were looking for
2nd ascent of Burden sweepstake, place your bets:
Aidan Roberts
Will Bosi
Vadim Timonov
Shawn Raboutou
Giuliano Cameroni
Other
I'll tentatively go Timonov
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Am I the only one who really wishes that gunky crack and all the rock right of it was not there? I know the problem is miles from it and in no way compromised by it ... and BoD is super aesthetic in it's absolute simplicity and purity ... but still ...
Anyway, incredible effort from Will; laser focus on doing the business.
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The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?
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The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?
Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.
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The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?
Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.
1st 8B/+
2nd 8Aish
3rd 7Cish
4th 7Bish
5th 8A
(source: reply to a comment on this post https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cq5r3t9RoW8)
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there are a few posts scattered about, but this is probably what you were looking for
2nd ascent of Burden sweepstake, place your bets:
Aidan Roberts
Will Bosi
Vadim Timonov
Shawn Raboutou
Giuliano Cameroni
Other
I'll tentatively go Timonov
I was thinking of earlier than that, around the time or in the first few years after it was done. I think Will still would have been a comp/route climber then and I'm not sure how well known Aidan was.
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The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?
Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.
Yeah they've both definitely done it. Vids available of them both.
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I was thinking of earlier than that, around the time or in the first few years after it was done. I think Will still would have been a comp/route climber then and I'm not sure how well known Aidan was.
Favourite for the second ascent?
That bare foot guy
That’s from the day the FA was announced. No more in that thread, it’s mainly people talking about the film.
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From that thread, this is a great post:
Just been going back through his instagram posts about the project. He tends to write quite long descriptions so a good story is told as you go back through the years. Starting 163 weeks ago...
"Tried this amazing new project yesterday! It's a very pure boulder with straight forward and thuggy frontal climbing. No trickery, just raw power! This will be a really hard one! #bouldering #climbing #island"
https://www.instagram.com/p/d34fcpSEr- 163w
https://www.instagram.com/p/ecWG2aSEo2 161w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fPdtwlSEnC 158w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fiHl6KyEpX 157w video..getting excited about nearly doing the first move
https://www.instagram.com/p/gBTqK6yEr2
https://www.instagram.com/p/gS6wGZSEpx
https://www.instagram.com/p/nXtEdRSEmQ 130w project is wet
https://www.instagram.com/p/oGcw7ZSEhL 127w finally does the last missing move
https://www.instagram.com/p/oLqlU_SEu4
https://www.instagram.com/p/odtrtryEl9 126w
https://www.instagram.com/p/pEfV6cyEl4 123w leaves it for another summer
https://www.instagram.com/p/tXzNV2SEix 108w back on it
https://www.instagram.com/p/t5SK6QyEjK 106w every move in a session
https://www.instagram.com/p/uQcB5OyEn2 105w almost linked in 2 parts
https://www.instagram.com/p/ux4XICSEsv 103w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0LNWV0yEng 84w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0aeI3lSEpz 83w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0xr_a0yEif
https://www.instagram.com/p/1sn-iaSEg9 79w Einstein famously said: "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"
https://www.instagram.com/p/3Gv3PuyEkw 74w
https://www.instagram.com/p/9oPbZKyEvc 50w does it from one move in to the top!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDWHpIXyEhe 30w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDszkZLSEsy 29w woods, graham and webb join in
https://www.instagram.com/p/BD8fyrYyErl 28w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyThXBSEs- 25w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BE8ujrZyEsw
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFZGD-TSEo7
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFl3Th5yEr4 22w long post about the frustration
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLToTs5ggwd 2w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc Sent!
Slow day at work.
I miss Nalle.
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what a wad! I had no doubt of his ability to send it, matter of time, but got a bit worried that it is going to get too warm, and that would have sucked, to try and keep his form / injury-free for the next season
sounds like alphane could settle as soft 9A and burden as hardish/mediumish based on the effort, there is something surreal about sport climber being basically the strongest boulderer.
wonder which route he goes to now, maybe looking for some 9c sport route, or more 9A boulders, it also feels like 9A+ boulder should be possible, if not with this generation then next.
also hopefully will upgrades honeybadger to 9A :great:
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Theorising...if the first move is 8B on its own, and the other moves are 8A, 7C, 7B and 8A then for something to get 9A+ it will need to have at least two 8B single moves on it plus some other hard moves, or something like two 8C sequences back to back with no rest. Doesn't sound utterly incomprehensible when you think about the level some of these guys are operating at.
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Will flashes 8B+ yet a move that took him 10 sessions (on the replica) is only 8B? :-\
I'm sure the Alphane right project was described as 3 8C's in a row at some point? Maybe the sequence has changed as it seems like it could go soon judging by Aidan's comments on his podcast.
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8b move is so vastly different to an 8b+ boulder
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Will flashes 8B+ yet a move that took him 10 sessions (on the replica) is only 8B? :-\
The replica is harder though, innit. Not just the slicker holds but they're further apart as well?
We'll never know how quickly he might have done the moves without prior replica practice.
Also what yetix said.
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To add context I'm fairly sure in his podcast aidan said he'd rather do 3 8C boulders in a row than 3 8B moves ontop of each other or something along those lines (perhaps I'm misremembering)
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8b move is so vastly different to an 8b+ boulder
But why is that? There are plenty of hard boulders with effectively a single move surrounded by mush?
When lots of 8C+/9A boulderers have taken several sessions to get or not get the move. I would have thought the first move was fairly solid at 8C/+. What am I missing?
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Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?
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Surely accurately grading a single move is basically impossible and they are only just giving some kind of context?
Really what we need is some form of calculator where you input the distance between the holds, their angle, size and coefficient of friction.
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Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?
I accept the idea that a one mover is different to a longer sequence at the same grade, but to answer your question, I think Ryuichi's Floatin is supposed to be a relative one mover?
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Some nice early pics of when it was first found/tried
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Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?
I accept the idea that a one mover is different to a longer sequence at the same grade, but to answer your question, I think Ryuichi's Floatin is supposed to be a relative one mover?
Good footage of it here
https://youtu.be/zIOCIRd8Mxk
First move is clearly the crux but the rose (which he drops one time) and the drop down look hard. The next 3 moves or so don't appear to be a gimme either
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didn't Ryu fall off floating after the first move many times? And said the 2nd crux is 8b ish?
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Yeah it seems I got Floatin wrong, but based on his grade breakdown it has a harder move than BOD!
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It is a lot easier to agree upon a grade of a climb that has more moves thanks to the averaging effects: with few exceptions, if someone finds one move easier for morphological reasons, they are likely to find other moves harder. The more variation in moves the smaller the variation in opinion on the grade. When discussing breakdowns of routes into boulderproblems we often disagree on the grades of the individual problems but rarely on the overall route grade. Central limit theorem, innit?
Thanks to a slight tendency to grade for how the climb feels for those who are the most advantaged, one move wonders are always graded harshly, as there is always some little shit who can do them with relative ease. (A friend of mine thought that Hale Bopp was 7b, but then again he is 2m tall and springy.)
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CrGeNBatv6G/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Few more comments from Will suggests won’t be seeing any downgrades on Alphane any time soon.
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Surely accurately grading a single move is basically impossible and they are only just giving some kind of context?
Really what we need is some form of calculator where you input the distance between the holds, their angle, size and coefficient of friction.
Heads Up: watch this space for the B-Grader app. :worms:
New technology to generate money & replace the fundamental principles of grading using experience and thoughts of climbers. :fishing: :
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CrGeNBatv6G/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Refreshing clarity and lack of bush-beating there. "These are the likely grades, deal with it" .
Also I'm with Jwi, I hate those little shits that boulder problems are invariably graded for.
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Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?
off the wagon
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Many have fallen off after hitting the first move? If the 2nd move was mush then I highly doubt Matt Fultz would come off having stuck the first move clearly quite well https://youtu.be/M8IuI0I1vFE
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I'd presume that is more to due with doing the first move poorly rather than the second move individually being that hard. I would guess someone here can speak to that personally though.
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I edited between your response, see above for a vid of Matt Fultz.
Edit again
Also I'm sure a Japanese climber tried using heels etc to not have to do the rose but instead match etc but I can't find a vid right now, if the rose was super easy why would people opt for that?
I do think off the wagon is the best suggestion yet though personally.
Found the vid of Ryu:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5cKVOcjUGC/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
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I edited between your response, see above for a vid of Matt Fultz.
Edit again
Also I'm sure a Japanese climber tried using heels etc to not have to do the rose but instead match etc but I can't find a vid right now, if the rose was super easy why would people opt for that?
I do think off the wagon is the best suggestion yet though personally.
Ryuichi Morai https://www.instagram.com/p/B5cKVOcjUGC/
Giuliano Cameroni was also trying a pretty different sequence on the low for a while, going to some filth in the break rather than doing the big throw and rose move.
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Thanks remus, doesn't sound like it's over after the first move of the stand then.
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Thanks remus, doesn't sound like it's over after the first move of the stand then.
Agreed. I stand corrected.
I'll try to think of another :)
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Maybe should got in the significant FAs thread but Guliano has done Solar Plexus FA which is by the sounds of it an 8B+/C move into 7C climbing (I'm assuming the 7C climbing after couldn't change the grade of the first move and therefore that the first move must be the grade of the boulder?) https://www.instagram.com/p/CvP7rE9tK8X/?igshid=M2MyMzgzODVlNw==
Just felt kind of relevant to the hardest moves discussion here. Perhaps that should haves a thread of its own?