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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: dave on July 19, 2004, 10:22:22 am

Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: dave on July 19, 2004, 10:22:22 am
As malc seems to be heading up a bit of a hard bouldering renaissance lately, was thinking of whats the remaining very hard and worthwhile problems to go at in the UK, if not the peak? there must be a few.

is there still a project at kyloe, like off a slopey rib thing, left of monk life?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 19, 2004, 11:06:56 am
So no one want to reveal their cherished projects so Malcolm can dispatch them?
Eh? Pardon? Come back...
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Sloper on July 19, 2004, 11:11:00 am
The impossible groove at bubage south and Smiling Butress, come on malc get it sorted.  :up:
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: dave on July 19, 2004, 11:15:07 am
i'm thinking stuff thats too hard for everyone except malc. have you got many 8c project JB?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 19, 2004, 11:19:47 am
Quote
The impossible groove at bubage south and Smiling Butress, come on malc get it sorted


Dare I suggest they might be a bit... technical?? :shock:

Wouldn't know what 8c was so its hard to know if any of my projects would be. I guess pobably not. :cry:
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Sloper on July 19, 2004, 11:21:44 am
On a different note, I'd love to see Mr Smith and all the other strong boys on some of the Chatsworth Cracks :twisted:
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 19, 2004, 11:24:25 am
Never mind chatsworth, hows about way's woof and wamshaw cwack? Or gigglin at bwimham?

In fact watchin anyone on these is good entertainment, no matter how 'good' they are...
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: squeek on July 19, 2004, 11:36:18 am
Bowderstone Traverse?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Bonjoy on July 19, 2004, 12:11:44 pm
Malc stylee projects? How about the line crossing the roof left of Chimes start and traversing the lip into the top bit of Ben's roof.
 General crying out to be done projects:
 The right arete of the Turd burglar boulder (as seen on consumed)
 The bottom bit of the Boothill arete at Crattcliffe
 Wall left of Carless Torque
 Breadline into Big Air
 Big Air direct
 The Bristol Dreaming crack direct at eatswood
 Low start to Cock o the Rock
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: David S on July 19, 2004, 12:13:34 pm
Nth Cloud things!
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Rhys on July 19, 2004, 12:34:07 pm
Pilgramage- Trigger Cut link?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Pantontino on July 19, 2004, 12:43:03 pm
There is always the Lou Ferrino ramp extension - easily the best line in the cave.

I guess he's probably had enough Parisella's action for now.

Others are:

the 'Fred Nicole roof' at Porth Ysgo.

CJD's Pil Box Wall project

Sheep Pen Link

sds to Main Vein (Caseg)
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: AndyR on July 19, 2004, 12:46:07 pm
Quote from: "Rhys"
Pilgramage- Trigger Cut link?

Is it Pilgrimage (i.e. spelled correctly) or Pilgramage  - seems to be spelled both ways in reports I've read??
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Rhys on July 19, 2004, 01:00:03 pm
I'm quite illiterate for an English student if that helps, is the Sheep Pen link Ding- Dongs into Gnasher or Jerry's?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: jimbo on July 19, 2004, 01:08:09 pm
Pit of hell start into trigger cut ?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Rhys on July 19, 2004, 01:15:44 pm
Crucial Times into a reverse of rock attrocity (i.e. reverse of big link) into Left Wall Traverse High! I reckon it'd be hard.

Also Incomplete youth could be linked with the V8/+'s in Split Infinity.

Bit eliminate by now though, out of interest does anybody know which problem he finished up? Just curious.
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: jimbo on July 19, 2004, 01:19:04 pm
I assume it was beaver cleaver ?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Scouse D on July 19, 2004, 01:20:32 pm
You assume right mon ami
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Pantontino on July 19, 2004, 01:24:34 pm
Beaver Cleaver, although this is not strictly speaking the easiest line of resistance - he could've nipped along the Right Wall Traverse.

The Incomplete Youth link would be quite hard, but the easy middle section would make it seem a bit disjointed.

I guess there are endless link ups in the cave.
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Rhys on July 19, 2004, 01:30:15 pm
What about the sit start to Main Vein? Amazing looking problem- I think I've heard that the moves had been done?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Doylo on July 19, 2004, 01:44:04 pm
Quote from: "Pantontino"
Beaver Cleaver, although this is not strictly speaking the easiest line of resistance - he could've nipped along the Right Wall Traverse.

The Incomplete Youth link would be quite hard, but the easy middle section would make it seem a bit disjointed.

I guess there are endless link ups in the cave.


yeah but right wall traverse is a pretty shitty finish to all that quality hard climbing, i'm glad he went for glory up beaver. on reaching the beaver cleaver finger jug malc did a couple more easy moves up and left to a glorious finish on a big jug on the lip of the cave.
Another project sit start to Repeat After Me, quality line but maybe impossible?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Nigel on July 19, 2004, 05:35:36 pm
Look, stop fannying about will ya:

Wall left of Isla d'Encanta, Trowbarrow. 3 move V16. Come on Smithy!!!!
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on July 19, 2004, 11:25:42 pm
yeah agree with the above neil but i think some big repeats in the lakes would be better.
 V13
little women rh ss
 V14
kaizen
at the heart of it all
V15
II pirata
walk away ss

as for projects -
the big link on the bowderstone right to left (or is it left to right)

and there's always a fucked up blank face overhanging a ten foot cliff onto solid rock at st bees

come on malc forget about wales get ya ass up to cumbria :wink:  thats where the real boulderins at :wink:
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on July 21, 2004, 07:44:58 am
Quote
ROFLMAO! Yeah, good one blondie!


lol, come on they'res no denien (can't spell :roll: ) it now. the bowderstone alone beats wales. :lol:
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: a dense loner on July 21, 2004, 10:26:06 am
what does ROFLMAO mean?
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: SA Chris on July 21, 2004, 10:32:41 am
Roll On Floor Laughing My Ass Off. American Forums Acronym. Sad, but sadder that I know.
Title: very hard LGPs for Malc to dispatch
Post by: Bonjoy on July 21, 2004, 10:34:04 am
Ripe Old Fruit Like Mushy Aged Oranges, do you know nothing man? :roll:
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