UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: fried on August 30, 2015, 03:36:52 pm
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STG - Get from 76.8kg down to 74.5kg by the end of September.
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice, but I'll happily settle for a sackfull of 5+/6A stuff in a variety of styles.
LTG - 7A by 50 ( 6 years to go)
M-T - Nothing except some shoulder exercise with a bit of bamboo
W - Franchard Isatis. The first cooler day for a long while though looks to be heating up by lunchtime, so got there at 9am to get the best of it.
Warmed up, then tried a red problem, but conditions were greasy after a day of rain and the thing I was trying wasn't my style at all. Went and had a few goes on http://bleau.info/isatis/3019.html, still too greay, but got to a new high point.
Decided to leave any ideas of doing anything difficult and instead did 20 or so blue problems. Stopped off for goes on this http://bleau.info/isatis/3034.html, which wasn't greasy, but the toenail on my big toe was very painful and so I had to give up, just when I'd just about cracked it. This http://bleau.info/isatis/3040.html which unfortunately had hornets in a hole next to it.
Fantastic day, did loads of easy stuff that I'd missed before. Ache in a really good way. Nice collection of excuses too.
Th - Topping out muscles ache. Good.
Fr - Indoors, cooler weather continues. O.K session, mainly looking at which problems I want to focus on next session.
Sa - Shoulder stuff with booze.
Su - Ditto.
Weight 75.5kg down 1.3kg on last week's total.
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Thanks fried
10.12-11.1 :bounce: All time low
M. AM Snuck out on a whim for another go at Mermaid 7A at Burbage Bridge. It was a bit damp and warm and midgy. Didn't do it but got closhish to holding the sloper
T. PM System board. Flashed the crimpy benchmark problems - first time ever. Being light pays dividends. Did some PE work but without timing rests
W.
T. Noon. PE session. Jotted down 6 versions of a circuit with a view to making it easier as I got tireder. Ended up completing the hardest version 4 times without falling for the the first set then twice in the second set falling on go 3 and 4. Couldn't quite take it in.Represents a new level for me on the systems board. Hope it crosses over the rock / Oak.
Eve. Tommy was keen to do some trad. Went Millstone. Heather looking especially purple at the moment. Nice evening - just 3 boulderers there. Tommy led Embankment 2 and then Embankment 3 which is his first E1. He hung around crux for ages before having a word with himself and going for it. Proud dad moment.
F.
S. AM Shovelled and wheelbarrowed masses of rubble and soil into a skip. Back a bit sore. Not the best warm-up. PM Got to Malham late afternoon having negotiated Malham show traffic. Felt warmish. Also felt a bit nauseous and in a fug. Sat on my phone and cracked the screen. Led F&EE and Cons x2. Put draws in Oak - but toe of whites felt bagged out. Changed to a brand new pair. Go1 Ground to throw but only had three fingers in undercut pocket instead of required 4. Go 2 Got to undercut by thrid bolt bit felt glassy and couldnt pull up. Go3 Temps better - disstracted by Stu warbling on about ancap and aerocap but got to horn by shouting him out - felt good but in excitement didnt put left hand under rope so as moved right it inexorably lifted hand off the horn Go 4 Did throw and just misjudged grabbing horn. 9pm when got back to car. Tommy did well again on Raindogs. Maybe start redpoint goes after a couple more sessions
S. More shovelling. Busted
Over the moon at the way my weight is going. Consistently losing 0.2-0.4lbs per days. With Fat% still at 9% gives an implied achievable target weight of 10st 6/7lbs which would be unfuckingbelievable. Challenge would then be to maintain it.
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STG: ??
MTG (2015): redpoint two more 7a’s and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)
M: rest
T: Resumed knee physio/mobility exercises. I neglected these on holiday, and my bad knee was starting to protest.
W: Beastmaker max hangs. Knee/mobility, kettlebell TGUs & swings to warm up.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Weather hot, partner decided to bail after half a dozen routes - exams to study for. I tried a few desultory circuits then bailed too.
F: Team evening out with work. Beer, schnapps. Excellent restaurant, great fun.
S: First hangover I've had for ages. Knee/mobility/stretching.
S: Sport climbing, Konstein. First time back on Edelbitter, the first 7a I ever seriously tried a year ago. Today it was dry - rare - but hot - 35 degrees. Didn't get any further on redpoint than last year's high point, a shake out on a big sidepull before the crux. But whereas last year I got through the crux once, via random frenzied thrashing, this year I found a consistent repeatable sequence. Which I proceeded to repeat (consistently) because I also had a *huge* mental issue with going above the gear on easier ground after the crux. So since a redpoint wasn't on the cards today anyway (time, tired, temperature) instead I wound up by doing the crux a few times and jumping off. This won't fix my head issues instantly, but it will if I keep doing things like it consistently over a period of time.
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STG: Trad projects
MTG: 8c in Margalef
LTG: 9a
BHAG: Bruderliebe
M - work
T - work
W - work then evening out. Weather was very unispiring looking so decided to go to the traverse wall as an easy bail option when the weather crapped out. And was rewarded with amazing conditions. Did various traverses several times, good session.
T - work
F - work. Out with Doug in the evening on the steep trad projects. A tiny bit of progress on the undone moves, the hard start is feeling much better. The crux move still elludes me, but is getting closer. May be time for a break and some training on long deep wide locks of the left arm on tiny edges...
S - work!! then family stuff
S - morning swim with the dog. Then bike ride down to the prom and back with little 'un and his bike in the trailer. Then spend the day tree felling, bar a post lunch BM session (pretty good session).
Still not enough climbing/training this week. Work is taking up a lot of my life right now. feel in pretty reasonable condition but want to push on for Margalef, but getting a bit sidetracked by local projects which aren't going anywhere. Big picture needs to be kept in sight, and the BM needs to see more action.
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STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.
Another week with only 1 outdoor session. :shit:
M: Rest. Raaaain...
T: More rain. Core session in the morning. St Leonards. New stuff. Flashed all bar 2 hardest probs. Bored after. Light campus and fingerboard after with plenty of shoulder stuff.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Made bunch of probs up. Then big campus board and fingerboard session. Lots of shoulder work. Fingers are back to feeling good. Pleased. Hard session.
F: Rest. Too many beers and pizza.
S: 9 Degrees. Knocked off more of the hardest problems here. Already needs a reset. I'm running out of things to do. Far too much on the easy end of the scale.
S: Hot. Black Cave, Manly. Couple of pull ups to warm up, then knocked off a V6/7 2nd go, 5th go overall. Pretty easy. Then jumped on a V10. Flat roof to a dyno to jug and top out. Got to the dyno after a few goes but just couldn't commit to it. Pretty low but not a fan of diving head first into the ground... Maybe one day. Mate did his first V13 just next to it. Managed to miss it because I was off taking a piss.......
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85.2Kg
M - School - lunch. 50 degree.
T -
W - School - lunch. 30 degree.
T - School p.m. 50 and 30 degree.
F -
S - School p.m. 50 and 30 degree. Finished with some pull up and bench presses.
S -
Bouldered at the School 4 times, improved each session. Healthy week, lost over a kilo.
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M: Been doing that ab-roller wheel thing lately, can manage a good roll-out on it from my toes which I have never done before, nice progress.
T: Board session, nice progress on my neverending projects
W: Board session, decent session
T: Rest, ab thing
F: Great board session, did my pinch project in two sections for the first time, linked the first two moves for the first time, nice progress.
S: Made some new nice problems, got to the same point as yesterday on the pinch project
S: Tried one arm hanging my 1/3 pad doorframe with full crimp, managed to hold it for about 6 seconds on each arm. Holding the 1 and a bit pad edges on the bm for about 10 seconds now with half crimp one arm, which I couldn't hold at all with one arm when I last tried a months or two ago. Quite happy with how the finger strength is going, might start doing some fingerboarding with a pulley to try and one arm the middle edge on the bm.
overall quite happy with how strength is going. getting very desperate to go outdoors though, and to get new shoes to replace my falling apart solutions. Foot is always popping on my board projects, can't wait for some proper shoes again. Been trying to eat a bit better lately, haven't weighed myself though, my scale is quite suspect.
STG: Climb a v9 I tried ages ago outdoors. Do a proper one arm with half crimp on a campus rung (requires going to a gym for this). Finish my hard board pinch project.
MTG: Climb a v10 outdoors (not sure if this will happen because of other commitments, going outdoors is difficult). One arm the beastmaker 35 degree slopers. Climb my hard board gaston and undercling project.
STG: Be strong enough to climb hard stuff in Switzerland next year I suppose.
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STG - Roof Warrior and Body Machine
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring
M - hour open hand on the board, felt good, managed an old project I couldn't do in May. Then 30 minutes deadhangs, not so good.
T -8x FoC - 80on/60rest, failed late final rep
w rest
Th - open account on Roof Warrior - First burn was totally pathetic, second pretty pathetic and third still a bit pathetic. Didn't do the move to the crimp below the roof or the moves to or from the "jug" above it. Not too fussed about the crimp move, leave that til I'm ready to redpoint to safeguard finger, will aim to do the roof moves next session.
F - AM 8xFoC 80/55 failed late final rep; PM FoC 48/60 (small rungs 1-4-1) failed late reps 7&8.
S rest
S nowt
Effects of last weeks cold lingered on and then my back got very sore on Friday. Not exactly where I was hoping to be for when the kids go back this week.
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Missed last week so I'll do a double update:
17th - 23rd
M: 25 mins Aero Cap
T: Llanymynech - 30m 6c warm up then went straight for it on "The Ancient Mariner" (7a+) 35m pumpy route. Fell off the crux last year on the on-sight and was keen to finish it off. Fell off the crux 1st go and worked out some better beta. 2nd go foot hold snapped pre-crux - annoying. 3rd go greased off right at the top of the crag on an easy move on slopers 1 move from jugs after fighting on it for an hour...
W: 25 mins Aero Cap
T: Llanymynech - 35m 6b+ and 6c warm up. Back on The Ancient Mariner did it 1st go putting the clips in, still greasy at the top in humid conditions but managed to get around it - Well happy. Was becoming a bit of a nemesis.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: LPT - Horrible humid greasy conditions but glad to be out given the weather the day before. Got on "Mean Mother" (7b) pretty stupid idea given the small holds and bad conditions but managed to figure out the puzzling crux section that I couldn't do last year. 2 working goes on lead but no time for a redders because of the tide. Keen to go finish it off.
Went around to the Hornby's had an onsight go on "Watcher in the Woods" (6c) steep climbing. climbed well until the last bolt then a storm appeared and soaked me and the route and then got hailed on, had to lower off a bolt - very annoying.
24th - 30th
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Castell-Y-Gwynt - Got back on "Cruella Deville" (7b). First go putting the clips in bolt-to-bolt. Worked out some micro beta changes. 2nd go got to the 3rd bolt and got completely camped out and powered out. 3rd go got to the same place and the same thing happened... 4th go felt like I had finally warmed up. Got to the mid-height rest feeling very tired but managed to get almost everything back, cracked on up the top groove and fell trying to get out of it near the 2nd to last clip. Felt annihilated.
T: Struggled to get a partner for a mileage session any where so went for a brief boulder up at Wavelength in the pass. Haven't bouldered in 6 months and was hopeless, tried a few 6C-7A's I was close on previously, zero power but was tired from the day before.
Went to meet a mate at Bus Stop Quarry on the slate. Did 6a, 6a+ and then did a cool 6c called "Whizz Bang" 2nd go, very weird but satisfying route.
F: Rest - Somehow caught a cold feeling rough
S: Rest - Cebeebies land with the little one, mega psyched he was!
S: Back down on Castell-Y-Gwynt. 1st go bolt-to-bolt on Cruella Deville, conditions were rubbish no breeze at all. 2nd go fell off 2 moves from the top jug (end of the hard climbing) sweating like crazy, hanging on the rope I tweaked some beta. 3rd go Got to the same point and went for the new beta, quickly realised this was completely whack and managed to reverse a move and commit to my original method, latched the jug with a big smile on my face and enjoyed the easy moves to the chains - Mega psyched with this one. Anti-style tick for me, I'm useless on sustained, steep (by my standards) routes. Given me a good feeling for the Ceuse trip in a couple of weeks!
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Gs - the usual.
M- Surf - on a reasonable forecast got down beach as early as possible, but was really too late. Messy waves already rebounding off seawall, in between the groynes was like a washing machine, it was nearly dark and foggy. So we did the sensible thing and got in anyway. Getting out back was a bit of a mare but made it out back, peaks were shifting all over the place, but by sheer fluke managed to get one wave, thought fuck this, survived betting up steps without getting washed away and went home. Did some weights/
T- elbow tweaky from weights, did nothing
W - wall session. Did OK, managed to tick a couple of probs that have been eluding me. Elbow felt better
T - sports massage, went to town on my foreamrs, pain was something else.
F - nothing
S - Nothing
S - light fingerboard session, some weights.
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Mon - fingerboarding, crimp session. Mega. Better than the real thing. Improved on everything. Mega. Front levers x3, dumbbell complex isometrics, triceps, Romanian deadlift x2. Mega.
Tue - nothing.
Wed - bouldering! Hot and humid, terrible. Absolutely not worth the drive and the time. Tried long standing project, super hard, will never do it in its pure form. Decided to use one single foothold on an adjacent rock for a move, to climb it at a reasonable grade and leave the original for others, unless its crusty holds disappear under my efforts.
Thu - board climbing, good vibes; kettlebell, overhead barbell walk, snatch, shoulder barbell walk.
Fri - recruitment. Jumps, 2 mins dumbbell complex, glute bridge x2.
Sat - bouldering. Hot, a bit tired. Too much climbing, no chance on project.
Sun - nothing apart from cooking dinner for 360 people.
Hard week, lots of committments, hard to stay focused and in shape, especially at usual levels of body fat, but I'm still managing it with HIIT and heavy finishers: never seen such changes in body composition as in the last year or so.
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M- Shoulder rehab and getting mojo back... Decided to start Wendler's 5-3-1 Weight training program for 2 cycles. 2 reasons - one was to help get my body overall strong again. 2 was I needed something simple easy, and well planned that I could do with the shoulder. I also want to see if I can use a similar format for pull strength as that is my current #1 weakness, but can't get going on that until the shoulder gets better.
T- Bench/Squats, Core
W- Deadlift/Overhead press / ab roller
T- Cardio - 30 min run
F- Squats/Bench, Small edge BW hangs
S-Overhead Press/Deadlift/Rows. Core-ab roller
S- Boulder Outside - shoulder felt ok as long as I stayed 1-2 gades below max. Fingers feel strong.
Shoulder feels a bit off this morning, but not really worse that without climbing. I've got an appt. w/doc on Wednesday to get referral for physio. Hopefully I'll be able to get shoulder sorted in short order...
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STG Feed Shark enough doughnuts to counteract the laxatives Habrich gave him..
Dropped below 12 stone consistently this week - 11:13 yesterday morning..
M: Harmers - help spot Andy Popp on his project - and had a good play on Mud Lark - his recent 7A+ thing... got moderately hooked on it..
T: Woodwell - with the intention of doing Sanctified Strong (7A+) that I had come close to doing the previous week. Got it 2nd or 3rd go \o/ Started working crucifix kiss (I hate that traverse move) when a local wad came along and dished out some good beta - and showed how The Beauty of Being Numb (7B+) was now done (post hold breakage etc..). I had a go - and got pretty darned close. Hooked.
W: Rest
Th: Woodwell. Spend 2 hours trying to do TBOBN and failed :D soooooo close sooooo many times. Daft problem, but great...
https://vimeo.com/137864416 (https://vimeo.com/137864416)
Fr: Harmers again with Andy - more progress on Mud Lark - but knackered.. fingers hurt..
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/31/9007129767a94a2f2d2372bc4cdef414.jpg)
Mudlarkage..
Sa: Bored. Should have rested but mooched over to Harmers to play on ML - hot. Sweaty. Humid. Progress - got really close - broke a hold (that only makes it a teeny bit harder..)
Su: Up to Dove Lowe with Andy... midgy as hell, but just about climbable. Good session, repeated Tangled up in Blue - and had a long session on Mike Adams 7B+ pocket wall problem... felt like I came so very close so many times.. probably not the best conditions. God knows what we looked like - I wore socks under rock boots, had everything tucked into everything and a hoody done up snorkel jacket style to avoid the midges. Good day though....
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Like the noises in slo-mo tomtom :lol:
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Like the noises in slo-mo tomtom :lol:
:D just listened for the first time (phones always on silent). Pissed myself.
I AM A TIGER!!
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I'm opting back in now that I should be able to get back into more of a routine.
Goals: Harmers project, carry on getting out regularly and at least a bit further afield now and again. I will be in Sweden for two weeks from late Nov and hope for weekend bouldering in the middle. I'd like to be in reasonable shape for that.
M - catching up with everything domestic and work after a week away. Knackered from four days of festivaling
T - out to Harmers with Tom to try the project. Start to get close to cracking the start again in what are slightly cooler conditions than the last few visits. Conditions are very fickle in this quarry and I increasingly realise I've been bashing my head against a brick wall in trying a difficult slab in shit conditions for several weeks. Looking forward to the cooler, drier temps of Sept. Repeat my new problem, The Mudlark 7A+, pretty easily.
W - short, experimental session on new fingerboard in the garage
T - quite a high-pressure day. Have an interview that turns out much more full-on than I expected. End up getting promoted.
F - back to Harmers. Conditions still not really that great but again get close, though with a different sequence. Skin absolutely abysmal. Nearly do Mudlark again.
S - surprisingly achy from the day before and zero skin. And a bit hungover. Get a good bit of work done.
S - Dove Lowe with Tom. This was one of the first places I got spotted when I got hold of the guide. A small but lovely little spot. It is hot and midgy and the vibe is pretty mellow. But we have a lovely little session. Some warm-ups, two or three nice sixes and then pleased to do Tangled Up in Blue, 7A, second go. Just nice to be out somewhere so pretty and I feel like I'm starting to get my hand in a little again.
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...
Sun - nothing apart from cooking dinner for 360 people.
:bow: Surely that counts as a workout.
STG: The dolomites on Friday
M: Rest
T: Works for circuits, felt really good after the rest day. Managed the equivalent of 2 complete circuits over 3.5 hours, all on medium difficulty (for me) problems. Good volume
W: Rest
T: The Cornice and back on Unleashing. Had time for 1 decent redpoint and foot slipped going past last bolt, (thought I'd placed it properly.) Still, pleased with the effort given the smeg was in and I couldn't feel my finger tips from before the crux. No more time for good evening redpointing now though :no:
F: Works, very hot and sweaty. Did 2 circuits in 2x35-ish min blocks, ran out of time rather than energy but good volume workout.
Felt good last week, the multiple circuits aren't necessarily the best way of training for 12 hour days but the constant battering on circuits over a short time felt like the best way to tune up given the time I had available. It felt good and was a huge step up on a couple of months ago.
Relaxing week now before Friday.
Hopefully I'll be able to get shoulder sorted in short order...
Hope it goes well Sas
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...
Sun - nothing apart from cooking dinner for 360 people.
Its a miracle
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRNnqfZFF_AH0A9xJQMXLksj04H_QuZ2hr5AJVg8SH29Zq68ealBQ)
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Congrats on the promotion Andy! Love Dove Lowe...
Back still not sorted but better than it was. Plus super busy week in work = another not so good week in terms of climbing
Mon - Lobb Mill with O-Dog. Met Rachel, Ste G and young Peter. Good session at an excellent little venue. 3 x 6c plus various other 6a-6b+ probs. Had decided one of the 6c's was untenable until Rachel crushed it for her second problem above 6a since childbirth, and was suitably inspired to get back on it! Good day!
Tue - nowt
Wed - nowt
Thurs - nowt
Fri - nowt
Sat - Crocky Trail with family. Ace day out with loads of pulling, jumping, balancing and falling over action. Back handled it ok
Sun - evening fishing session - 2 fine trout on the dry fly
Mon (included as BH) - Day out at Dunham Massey and evening session at the Hangar. I was rubbish - wife beasted lots!
Another busy week is upon me as final week in job before starting new job next Monday = lots to do. Doubt I'll get out but hope to have a couple of indoor sessions...
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and then pleased to do Tangled Up in Blue, 7A, second go.
Love that song
https://youtu.be/1yYokBLUVFo (https://youtu.be/1yYokBLUVFo)
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Mon-Thu - Work on van and some real work!
Fri - Got back on Incapacity at WCJ Cornice. Actually got the hot aches when I rested too long! :???:
Sat - Battered from the day before, got on the start of Head in the Shot in Serengeti and decided rest was a better option.
Sun - Early start. Soloed Ampitheatre Buttress, Direct Route on Milestone Buttress (going right at the bi-valve and skipping the chimney as someone was in it), Grooved Arete, before traversing over to Idwal -starting up Ordinary Route to avoid some damp and finishing up Charity from the step over.
Really pleased with Friday - never worked a route before and feel like I've made a huge jump forward, in how to go about it. Third time I've been on the route and now pretty smooth and efficient to my crux on lead. Can do all the top moves too, it's just four hand movements now and they all rely on me sorting my feet out properly. Managed to work out a foot sequence that lets me hold my crux holds without so much effort and sorted a plan for my feet to allow me to move higher... can't see me having the time to get back on it now before heading to Spain but when I get back, it's getting ticked. It's been a fun learning curve and was chuffed I didn't resort to the 'not strong enough' excuses and focused on my feet and body position.
Sunday was a blast! ;D Busy rolling the legs this morning, they're pretty tight. Days like this are what I used to do when I was a scrambler but often I'd back off the crux moves, so it was nice to be able to just spend the day in my own little bubble, enjoying the movement and enjoying the scenery. Padding up the top of Charity to meet Sean, who'd just gone up Faith - I was really happy. August has been a blast! Salbit Sudgrat, then this. Yep. Happy.
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STG - continue getting technically better, climb less but harder & more specific
MTG - no idea
LTG - no idea
M - Rest (physio)
T - Rest (physio)
W - went to Craigs of Kyle, wet - no indoor gyms nearby so resorted to door frame hangs for 15 mins and swimming (physio)
T - funeral support to gf
F - 3 hours at Longridge, planned to do the V5 traverse, got there & it was nails so reset my goal to do a V3, ended up doing some V4s. Got some nice projects for when travelling North
S - Serengeti , Slate, almost top roped heading the shot F7a+(E5?) & onsighted an E4(6b+?) on the upper tier?
S - soloed Direct Route (Milestone), Grooved Arete & Ordinary Route (idwal), then led Herfords Crack which is amazing. Really fun alpine feeling day
Still searching for goals
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Were you two climbing together?
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Were you two climbing together?
At the weekend yeah - it was another mate's birthday and he wanted to do a big link up in Snowdonia. Turned out to be a great idea.
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STG- Another 7a+ or (ideally) a 7b on lime before September 18th.
MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/blog/behind-curtains-hell-24-hours-horseshoe-hell/) and The Show Me State (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-show-me-state/107950447) in September, Wall of Horrors (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65) in October.
LTG- 8a.
M-F- in Germany on non-climbing holiday. I described this as "chilling out" last week, making the classic mistake of forgetting that a fun day for my girlfriend involves waking up at 7 and at least 5 miles of walking (at least she lets me off the ten mile run) but it was great and good for maintaining fitness. Despite eating loads of bread and meat I kept to my pre-trip diet as well (being allergic to nuts helps you avoid chocolate and cake in mainland europe!) so I've come back lighter than I went.
Sa- Malham. Up for the weekend with mates from Nottingham. Arrived to find the crag in full sun and had a nightmare putting the clips in Consenting. Felt a bit unmotivated and phased as it was the first time I've visited Malham as the "expert" rather than the apprentice. Shark arrived at the same time as the shade and gave me a (figurative) kick up the arse which was just what I needed- after taking some photos I got on The 7th Aardvark, a route I'd had a couple of burns on two years ago. It now feels easier and, although there's a move I didn't do, like it's a realistic goal. Psyched for it as the moves and rock are really good.
Su- Giggleswick South. Not keen for this place as I'd heard nothing but bad things. That turned out to be pretty accurate but gradewise it was an appropriate choice for the day as we were a mixed-ability group. I got plenty of onsighting done and would have been useless on harder stuff, particularly given the humidity.
Not long til my trip now! :bounce:
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Congrats on the promotion Andy! Another busy week is upon me as final week in job before starting new job next Monday = lots to do.
Thanks! And to you for the new job. Good luck with it, this week and next.
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Sun - Early start. Soloed Ampitheatre Buttress, Direct Route on Milestone Buttress (going right at the bi-valve and skipping the chimney as someone was in it), Grooved Arete, before traversing over to Idwal -starting up Ordinary Route to avoid some damp and finishing up Charity from the step over.
Sunday was a blast! ;D Busy rolling the legs this morning, they're pretty tight. Days like this are what I used to do when I was a scrambler but often I'd back off the crux moves, so it was nice to be able to just spend the day in my own little bubble, enjoying the movement and enjoying the scenery. Padding up the top of Charity to meet Sean, who'd just gone up Faith - I was really happy. August has been a blast! Salbit Sudgrat, then this. Yep. Happy.
I used to love those sorts of days; probably the best I've every had in the mountains.
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I used to love those sorts of days; probably the best I've every had in the mountains.
They'd become a bit of a used to' for me also. It wasn't until I did that few hours coaching with John Kettle back in February and we were chatting about climbing motivation, that I realised I'd almost stopped doing the very thing I started climbing to do - big, easy days in the mountains.
All the training and injuries were worth it on Sunday :)
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I used to love those sorts of days; probably the best I've every had in the mountains.
They'd become a bit of a used to' for me also. It wasn't until I did that few hours coaching with John Kettle back in February and we were chatting about climbing motivation, that I realised I'd almost stopped doing the very thing I started climbing to do - big, easy days in the mountains.
All the training and injuries were worth it on Sunday :)
+1
It's easy to get lost in always wanting to try something hard, especially if one has limited time, but the Cuillin Ridge is still - thirty years on - one of the best days I've ever had.
Another really good outing once upon a time was Tryfan / Glyder Fawr / down to Pen y Pass / some big link up on Lliwedd, solo. Snowdonia lends itself to that sort of thing.
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Snowdonia does, especially with the short approaches. Most places in Scotland the walk in is the crux for me!
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MTG: 8c in Margalef
feel in pretty reasonable condition but want to push on for Margalef,
You still planning on being there at the start of November? We're taking a slow drive down through Font and the Ariege in Oct but should be there by the turn of the month.
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LTG 8A 8b
M. Wall. Went to Redpoint for a change. Most of the time spent on the long steep overhang, doing laps on 7a+ and 7a.
T. Wall. BBC. Best session for weeks. Max hangs routine. Antagonist workout. Pressups.
W.
T.
F.
S. DWS Exeter. Drove down early Sat morning. What a brilliant event! So glad Ellie talked me into going. Watched her cruise through qualifiers in the morning. I was on at 5ish. Disappointed to have slipped off the 2nd route high up, totally unexpected, thought I was home and dry! Would've been enough to get into the semis, ah well. Bit of food and drink in the evening and spending time with old and new friends, happy.
S. DWS Exeter. Incredible performance from Rymer, cheered her on all the way. Shame about the bit of rain but it eventually cleared up and turned into a fine afternoon. Great display of bat hang technique from McClure and Gresham during semis. Drove home in the evening after prize giving.
Overall a good week and a brilliant weekend in Exeter. Slightly disappointed with my own performance but totally inspired by others. No sign of any :sick: :shit: :sick: :shit: for me either. Feeling lean and strong at the moment.
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STG: Re-hab bicep tendon, pain-free 5Kg dumbell curl, E5 slabs.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
M. Dumbell curls with 2.5Kg, minor discomfort.
T. Curls with 2.5Kg, v.floss.
W. Slate. 2 x E2/3 slabs, 1 x E4 wall, 1 x E4 slab on 3rd attempt (v.hard crux, 6b?). Curls 2.5Kg, v.floss.
T. Slate. 1 x E2 slab, 1 x E3 slab. Curls, v.floss.
F. Curls 2.5Kg, v.floss.
S. Penmaenbach Quarry. 1 x E5 slab, brilliant route.
S. Penmaenbach Quarry. Working moves on 8a slab. Feels like multiple 6c moves and possibly a 7a move. Maybe a hold's come off, harder than the slate 8as I've been on.
M. Slate. 2 x slabby 6a+s, 1 x E2/3 slab, 2 x E4 slabs.
Starting to really enjoy the slate slab climbing and it's just enjoyable going out bumbling in cool places, psyched to tick some more E4s and 5s this week if I can get partners.
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Snowdonia does, especially with the short approaches. Most places in Scotland the walk in is the crux for me!
Anyone know of any good linkups in the Llanberis pass? All seems abit more spaced out!
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Th: Woodwell. Spend 2 hours trying to do TBOBN and failed :D soooooo close sooooo many times. Daft problem, but great...
https://vimeo.com/137864416 (https://vimeo.com/137864416)
Just back from Woodwell.. nailed it :) First 7B+ of the year...
I had thought my summers work at Woodwell was done - then started playing on Not Bad Dave.... ;)
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Good work Tom!
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Good work Tom!
Thanks - the session was bought to a close by a pretty mental thunderstorm - after nearly splitting my head open tumbling down the hill from A Rigpa bailout!
https://vimeo.com/137957937 (https://vimeo.com/137957937)
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Snowdonia does, especially with the short approaches. Most places in Scotland the walk in is the crux for me!
Anyone know of any good linkups in the Llanberis pass? All seems abit more spaced out!
I don't think it works very well if you stay in the Pass. However, I once did a route on Cyrn Las, went to the top of ridge and dropped down to Cloggy, did a route on the West, then from the top of that went up and down over the other side to do a route on Llechog, walking back to Llanberis village from there (you can skirt back round to the base of Cloggy without going back over the top making the walk back fairly flat).
That worked beautifully and delivered a really great day out.
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You still planning on being there at the start of November? We're taking a slow drive down through Font and the Ariege in Oct but should be there by the turn of the month.
Indeed, arrive Sunday 1st and am there for a week. Would be cool to meet up if you're in the area.
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First 7B+ of the year...
Effort crusher!!
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Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board repeated a few things.
Wed. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Thu. Board trying a problem just outside edge flagging, rather than its usual egyptian. Do it with a slight dab, never got that close before. On its mirror image hit the hold several times but not the swing. Do 2 projects first go, the grease of something and twang my shoulder/bicep.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Wainstones. Do You've pulled 7a very basic, once you get lift off you do it. Walk across to Cold Moor, very hard to walk along underneath the crag due to head high bracken, the problems we went to look at seemed very dirty and need more mats than the 2 we had. Back to Wainstones do various things on the A boulder, including the sit starts to the crack and the arete on its right. Graded 6a+ and 6b felt as hard as the 7a we did earlier.
Shoulder sore on the way home, struggled to use 5th gear on the drive home.
Sun. Nothing.
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Mon: Weights (Deadlifts - up to 6 x 2 x 150kgs), bouldering and hangboard
Tues: Treadmill intervals - 20 mins
Wed: Bouldering and hangboard
Thurs: Kettlebells - 10 x (4 TGUs and 25 swings)
Fri:Rest day. Drive to Rocklands.
Sat:Rocklands. Almost do the 7C du jour, Stalker on the Horizon, in a session, trying it the 8A way. Fall off the end, after the fall offable bit, and run out of time. Dammit. Torched for the rest of the day. Torched.
Sun: Deadlifts and kettlebell swings. Tired.
Lots of training at the moment. Feel like I will need to dial it back a little at some point.
I have new goals now:
STG: 7C in a session
MTG: 8A and multiple 7Cs in my 5 day trip to Cresciano in December.
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goals some as normal.
m. think i did 10 pu's here or on tuesday.
t.
w. went to the wall (bloc). it was pretty good although got tired quite quickly. flashed some good probs. enjoyed myself. pints after
t.
f.
s. the
s. bank
m. holiday avec la famille. nice actually.
went to Berry Head finally last night fell in at around 8pm and was on the way to hypothermia before I got back to my kit!
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What did you do / not do?
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I did do Cavewoman in and out again which was great. I didn't do Rainbow Bridge falling off the crux then swimming out, it was a fair old swim in the cold!
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What's cavewoman in and out? I hope it doesn't mean you avoided the chimney up to the light!
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Fraid so. You reverse the traverse a bit then move up and over the lip of the cave and traverse back to the big ledge if that makes sense. I depumped for a while on the chockstone before climbing back out - its no warm up (for me). I was put off the chimney by who I was climbing with. Is it good? It looked sharp!