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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: grimer on August 10, 2006, 10:23:46 am

Title: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on August 10, 2006, 10:23:46 am
Stuart Cathcart (trivia question: Stuart is most famous for sticking his finger into what?) has sent me a new bouldering guide to the Shropshire area that he has just produced. It covers Nescliffe, Pim Hill and Grinshill. Can't speak for the quality of the climbing, although Nick Dixon spoke very highly of Nescliffe, but the guide is a very nice celebration of esoteria, very nicely produced.

Like all best K-Tel compilations, this book is not available in the shrops, unless it's Stuart's own shrop at www.highsports.co.uk .

Might be worth checking out if you're anywhere in the area.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on August 10, 2006, 10:29:51 am
Shropshires' L'Angle Parfait was discovered and climbed last Autumn. 


Stuart is most famous for sticking his finger into what

Thora Hird?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on August 10, 2006, 10:59:20 am
No, Houdini, that would be a 'who', but you're very close.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on August 10, 2006, 11:01:56 am
The Cad bolt? Shropshire's L'Angle Parfait - is this an arete at Nesscliffe (where there is some brilliant bouldering)?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on August 10, 2006, 11:12:37 am
Shropshires' L'Angle Parfait is hidden in an ultra obscure cutting.  It's quality sandstone.  It was found by a wandering Jez Stephenson on timeout from being a fireman on the Shrops service.

I've seen a photo: it's tall and very clean cut.  Panton may have an exact location by now.


The bouldering @ Nesscliffe is touch & go.  With the exception of The Hourglass Pinch problem on the hidden Rhodie upper tier it's not that great.  There's a new traverse there too which someone may be interested in, if you like sequential short crabwise nastiness inches of the deck (V9?)  The bouldering on the lower levels are interesting old skool meanderings at the bottom of routes.


Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on August 10, 2006, 11:21:21 am
Ah, all that may be true, but if you're a resident of the village of Cliive, say, or down in Bomere Heath visiting your granny, or in Shawbury buying a second hand remote hard drive, then they just might come in to their own.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on August 10, 2006, 11:26:23 am
So true.

I had a grand session there last year after escaping from a Wolverhampton building site.  It felt like I was at Font'.  But anywhere would after a month in Bently Bridge...

The view from the Rhodie craglet is so fine.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on August 10, 2006, 11:48:55 am
C'mon Grimer, pay attention. I think I earned trivia points there. I use Nesscliffe in exactly the way you suggest, stopping on the way to and from the parents in Hereford. The Rhodie crag is v. fine - the 'hourglass', new problem to the right, wall on r. margin and traverse all v. good. Nick has linked the traverse in to hourglass - I have footage, I'll see if he'll let me post it. Who climbed this L'Angle thing and is the cutting at Nesscliffe?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on August 10, 2006, 11:56:58 am
Who climbed this L'Angle thing and is the cutting at Nesscliffe?

Jez Stephenson

A Cwm-Y-Glo based pie specialist/firestarter.


It's good (I've heard that confirmed from other equally secretive quarters).  But you'll have to wait for directions (that will take a phone call) - I'm lead to believe it's not at Nesscliffe.



The new V9 is Rigpa:

(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/houdini2/INT_PAUL_ON_RIGPA20copy.jpg)
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on August 10, 2006, 12:07:28 pm
Nice photo. Bit hard to tell but that looks left of the hourglass? Nick did one to the right. I asked all the questions about the arete as Nick was telling me about a new wall at Nesscliffe with a hard arete that had been 'claimed' by someone - doesn't sound like these are the same things at all.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on August 10, 2006, 12:13:30 pm
Time will tell.  I'll make a call later tonite.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Pantontino on August 10, 2006, 01:08:18 pm
Katz repeated the arete (approx 7a+ apparently) and mentioned that there is still a major line to the left that hasn't been done yet.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: fatneck on August 10, 2006, 07:49:56 pm
Quote from: Houdini
The Hourglass Pinch

The lovely hold this problem derives it's description (name?) from was recently described to me as The Labial Pinch.

Back to the topic in hand (although I suppose it's all related really), I am really psyched to get a copy of this guide.
Nice one Stuart.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on August 14, 2006, 08:21:52 am
Mr. Popp, I've PM'd thee with details of Easter Edge.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Pantontino on February 03, 2007, 10:44:21 pm
Went to Nesscliffe today for the first time. It was hot in the sun, but we had great day out. All the problems on the Northumberland Wonderland wall (the 'Rhodie craglet') are ace (except for some dodgy eliminate V6 on the right), and Subtilitas is stunning (and hard, i.e. no-one topped out, although Ding Dong got close). The 8a wall looked excellent; perfect rock and a good flat landing.

The place could probably do with some consensus grade adjustments; we didn't agree with the grades for most of the things we did. Not that this really matters, as the climbing is great.

Here's a pic I took of Nick on RIGPA:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/RIGPA.jpg)

The routes look stunning. I think I'll be taking a rope next time.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on February 05, 2007, 08:11:09 am
Dear me, I can see Nick's really let himself go to seed hasn't he. What a fat bastard.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 05, 2007, 09:22:54 am
Good to see that little spot is still a suntrap. For those of you who haven't bought the new nesscliffe (routes) guide, the DVD is ace and has some good bouldering footage.
Back when I was a local around these parts we reckoned Grinshill was a much better bouldering venue than Nesscliffe. We climbed mainly on the natural bits but there were a lot of small quarries  that we never got past looking at. I'd wager this L'angle Parfait is in one of these.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on February 05, 2007, 10:24:57 am
You wager correctly.  It's name (in the guide at least) is Terminator.  Though Jez Stephenson is pretty sure he got there first with Easter Edge.  There's a very worthy line next to it still to do.

Nick's really let himself go to seed hasn't he?

Indeed! And I see the tonsure is making a comeback. 
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 05, 2007, 10:28:53 am
I'd like to buy one of these guides but the highsports site asks for a password. Any ideas?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on February 05, 2007, 10:32:39 am
Buy from V12 online.  Maybe.  They do postal orders.  The guide ain't so flash, and oddly, all the pages are laminated.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on February 05, 2007, 10:33:47 am
How does this ersatz L'angle Parfait compare with the near legendary Urban Culture Dispatj? I'm looking for scales of one to ten.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on February 05, 2007, 10:37:34 am
No idea, only seen photo's.  UCD?  No idea what you mean.  Sorry.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on February 05, 2007, 10:49:17 am
Just realised that no man alive has knowingly beheld both features, soz.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Pantontino on February 05, 2007, 10:59:43 am
UCD looks and sounds like a more accurate replica of L'Angle Parfait. Easter Edge (as it was described to me) uses some small dinks on the wall, and as such is not strictly a pure arete problem, although visually it is a high sharp arete.

I know V12 have got stock of both the Shropshire Bouldering guide and Nick's Nesscliffe guide.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Pantontino on February 05, 2007, 11:02:50 am
Just realised that no man alive has knowingly beheld both features, soz.

Not necessarily, perhaps Jez Stephenson or Mark Katz has been for a wander in that UCD quarry? It's a possibility, a slim one I'll grant you.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on February 05, 2007, 11:18:30 am
Quote from: Mark Katz
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I've watched C beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser gate. I've beheld the twin wonders of both Easter Edge and Urban Culture Dispatj. All those moments will be lost in time like tears in rain. Time to die.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 05, 2007, 11:32:40 am
Quote
UCD looks and sounds like a more accurate replica of L'Angle Parfait.

Not to those who have actually seen it I'll wager.
I'm pretty sure we checked out easter edge circa 1994. I'm keen to go back for sure, if only to peer over the wall of that guy's garden near middle buttress and gawp at his tethered hawk collection.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on February 05, 2007, 11:52:38 am
Don't say that JB! I was hoping to build it up to mythical status and then we could all be smug when it's backfilled and no one would have been any the wiser.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 05, 2007, 12:54:47 pm
Woah! You jump to conclusions.
I was going to continue: to those who have seen it, Urban Culture Dispatj is more like a cross between Master's Edge and My Piano, but in miniature.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Pantontino on February 05, 2007, 01:09:57 pm
Is UCD under threat? Here and gone in the blink of an eye...

Quote
The light that burns twice as bright burns half as long - and despite the fact that no fucker, bar Bonjoy and his cohort, have witnessed your perfect form, you have burned so very, very brightly, Urban Culture Dispatj.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on February 05, 2007, 01:18:49 pm
Put it this way, if you hear the sound of a JCB overhead, it would be advisable to relocate with haste.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2007, 02:27:20 pm
I think you two should just

Quote
Revel in your time
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Houdini on February 05, 2007, 11:18:33 pm
Revel in their time?!  If these boys revel in their time any more here they'll get the sack!

1 to 10?

OK.  Easter Edge is not in Font.  Therefore it can't be a 10, perhaps a 9.  It's Shrops sandstone and not Font sandstone, therefore it can't be a 9 & must be an 8.  Jez has dragged his lard-ass up it, therfore it can't be an 8 - must be a 7.  It's in a quarry and not natural, therefore it can't be a 7 - must be a 6.

There you go.  L'Angle Parfait: a perfect 10.  Easter Edge = 6.  Totally obvious.  And I've only seen it on a Nokia.

Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 06, 2007, 09:10:18 am
1 to 10?

Ok. Urban Culture Dispatj is in the peak. No points lost there, still on 10. Its fabled chatsworth bed peak gritstone, still on 10. Its in a quarry and not natural, ok, down to 9. Punters getting up it? None. It retains an aura of perfection with only one ascent and a string of jilted suitors. Back up to 10?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on February 06, 2007, 09:16:37 am
Having a John Gill grade of B3 has got to add value.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 06, 2007, 09:39:48 am
Having a John Gill grade of B3 has got to add value.

Surely 11 then?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on February 06, 2007, 09:55:51 am
Eleven. Exactly. One louder.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 02, 2007, 11:30:02 am
Ok, the promise of L'angle Shropfait has got too much, planning a shropshire hit this week.
The high sports website is still not working, anyone fancy spilling some online beans?

Or failing that, Grimer can I borrow your guide?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Somebody's Fool on April 02, 2007, 11:35:38 am
anyone fancy spilling some online beans?

What a charming turn of phrase.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 02, 2007, 11:41:38 am
Sure, Adam. But having read only the second page of this post, i'm not sure which one you want: Nessy Nick's or the Shropshire Scrolls?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 02, 2007, 11:46:10 am
I've got Nessy Nick's, as they stock it in Ootside. It's the fabled shropshire boldrin scrolls I'm after. Apologies for bombarding your inbox on this matter also, I never know in which direction your beady irish eye is focussed.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Pantontino on April 02, 2007, 02:52:10 pm
I don't wish to spam, but we have got said book in V12 Outdoor:

(http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/images/shropshireboulderingjpeg.jpg)

http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=75_76_130&products_id=1262&osCsid=c032085443d018de49ead7eb7d2ce89e

Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 04, 2007, 09:46:51 am
I went to Nesscliff yesterday, had a great time. I wasn't bouldering, but saw the Berlin Wall bouldering area. Looked really good, and was in great condition. Very dry, perfect landings, lovely atmosphere. I'd definitely go back there.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: soapy on April 04, 2007, 09:53:58 am
..in shropshire..

has anyone ever looked at the very soft sludge that borders the severn at bewdley?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 04, 2007, 10:00:32 am
I think its mentioned in the West Midlands guide. Its out of print, but there's an online version somewhere.

Grimer, you are a secretive character. Was that just on a whim or were you passing? I now have your guide, which no doubt would have been of use to you yesterday, and no one to go with as the fool can't get his act together. Plan now is to go next thursday with a bit of a team.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 04, 2007, 12:04:34 pm
Did a Boysen hit yesterday, and we usually end up on sandstone somewhere, and it seemed like a good option. Didn't need the guide as we were doing routes. Lovely place. Did Red Square, Marlene and some E4/5 left of that called something to do with Currants, I think. All good, reasonable for the grade. Also top roped Trouble in Toyland. That's amazing, very onsightable. 5b-ish up to a peg at 8m, a move to a really deep peg and smallish cams, a move up then out to the arete and loads of Friend 2-ish things, crux moves back into the groove then easier to the top.

Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 04, 2007, 01:14:43 pm
Nice. I seconded (poorly) what was probably the second ascent of Cone and Currents back in 04 or 95. I remember a stiff crux off a mono then getting boxed higher up. Toyland sounds good, I'm pissed off the fool has let me down now.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on April 04, 2007, 01:46:48 pm
 Is it true the reason for bailling is he's digging a hole, but it's not deep enough?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Somebody's Fool on April 04, 2007, 03:06:31 pm
Tis indeed true. 

Johnny.  Would the red mist subside if I told you it was drizzling intermittently in Congleton, and I daresay Shropshire will be the same.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 04, 2007, 03:43:17 pm
It might do. unless i told him the sun has been shining on uninterrupted blue skies in Manchester all day long.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Somebody's Fool on April 04, 2007, 05:10:15 pm
Well I've just been to Nesscliffe to fly tip some soil and it's horizontal sleet down there now.  It would definitely have been a wasted drive had we gone down today. 

I've shattered four spades on underlying permafrost today.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 04, 2007, 05:17:32 pm
Nevermind, went Adder hunting instead, but what with the uninterrupted sunshine it was too hot. Luckily I found a Toad instead which saved the day from being a waste.

Are you up for next thursday instead then, Fool? Should be a few more too, unless they all decide Rubicon or holes are more tempting again...
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Mark Lloyd on April 05, 2007, 12:28:18 pm
Luckily I found a Toad instead
Did you lick it ?
Adder hunting sounds like a dangerous pursuit, are you the new Steve Irwin ?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 15, 2007, 02:25:10 pm
Quote
Just realised that no man alive has knowingly beheld both features, soz.

No longer! As of yesterday these two great spheres of comprehension were brought together, leaving the bold men involved quite giddy with knowledge gained.

Verdict on Terminator/ Easter Edge/ L'Angle Shropfait was good. Much better than Houdini's Nokia derived '6', in fact a good '8', or 7a+ in francs.
The flakes and hanging groove to the left is extremely good too, same grade. Rock quality generally is far better than I remembered, and the development remains in its infancy.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: fatdoc on April 15, 2007, 08:06:43 pm
i need to relive my past and get this guide and get out there.... still available in V12??? i'll get on the blower tomorrow ;D
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: cofe on April 15, 2007, 10:08:05 pm
my eyes could handle just the sight of both. l'angle shropfait. c'est formidable.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/general%20shit/Shropfait.jpg?t=1176671200)
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on April 16, 2007, 08:51:56 am
Did you take any pictures stood a bit further from the rock, so I can see what I missed out on?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: cofe on April 16, 2007, 09:41:37 am
does a man with a goose in his yard eat ham?

yes.

they're at home.

johnny nesscliffe might post one of his up though.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Bonjoy on April 16, 2007, 10:59:21 am
Did you prepare for climbing by drinking a pint of Nesquik?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: cofe on April 16, 2007, 12:04:27 pm
i prepared for climbing by drinking a pint of nesquik powder.

i have to say it left me thirsty.

goosebollocks aside. the problems this bit of rock offers up are excellent - i'd go so far as to say the arete is one of the top problems in the country. shoot me down.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on April 16, 2007, 12:48:17 pm
i'd go so far as to say the arete is one of the top problems in the country.
  I'm guessing you did it then. ;)
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Scouse D on April 16, 2007, 03:08:06 pm

goosebollocks aside. the problems this bit of rock offers up are excellent - i'd go so far as to say the arete is one of the top problems in the country. shoot me down.

looks shit and green
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2007, 05:56:08 pm
Quote
goosebollocks aside. the problems this bit of rock offers up are excellent - i'd go so far as to say the arete is one of the top problems in the country. shoot me down.

Extra 'r' may have crept in there word.

Sufficiently good, though, to turn Nige
Quote
I'm on a rest day, me, definitely not climbing, oh no, not even brought boots, just having a look around, that's enough for me, saving myself for staminaband see
into
Quote
c'mon, guys, who's got spare boots? Please! Too big? No matter, I'll wear all our socks, just let me on the rock.
in about a minute.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: cofe on April 16, 2007, 06:12:47 pm
Did you take any pictures stood a bit further from the rock, so I can see what I missed out on?

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/general%20shit/Shropfait2.jpg?t=1176743477)

avant garde rock poet john brown showing it 'the hand'
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2007, 06:44:28 pm
John Cooper Coefield swoons flat at the sight:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/shropfait.jpg)
Nige on the equally good groove:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/shrop-4.jpg)
Can any Shropshire peeps confirm this isn't a new problem? Not in the guide though the probs either side are.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Somebody's Fool on April 16, 2007, 07:00:10 pm
Has Nige been to see Nicky Clarke?  Or was the culprit more scouse?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: notbadforafatlad on April 16, 2007, 08:32:21 pm
John Cooper Coefield swoons flat at the sight:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/shropfait.jpg)
Nige on the equally good groove:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/shrop-4.jpg)
Can any Shropshire peeps confirm this isn't a new problem? Not in the guide though the probs either side are.
I live at Grinshill and to my knowledge it's a new problem, unless the Cathcatrs have done it in the last few days. Did you do anything else at Grinshill? Church Quarry?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 17, 2007, 08:37:31 am
Good lurking! What a nice place to live! Cofe is from Barnsley, I don't think he'd ever seen somewhere so english.

Church Quarry, aka Craig y Shortridge, we had a brief look, I see the victorian glass situation hasn't improved. To be honest it was too hot to climb really. The Prow was in the shade, so we went there, amazed at the general potential though.

I'd better come up with a name if its a new prob then! Its very good, similar standard to the arete. Font 7a/ 7a+?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Jim on April 17, 2007, 09:06:46 pm
Yo Johhny, give me the low down. looking for somewhere to go on thursday with worm (not kissing behind the bike sheds - climbing).
Is it any good, worth going, easy to get to, distance etc.....
Tell me everything
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Somebody's Fool on April 17, 2007, 09:24:23 pm
easy to get to, distance etc.....
Someone should make a POI list of every bouldering venue in the country. Then people wouldn't have to waste their time asking such questions.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Jim on April 17, 2007, 09:30:29 pm
Who ever did that would be a genius!
you about thursday Fool?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: GCW on April 17, 2007, 09:31:57 pm
Nige on the equally good groove:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/shrop-4.jpg)

Obviously an easy problem as he didn't bother tying up his laces.

Nice looking stuff guys.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: dave on April 17, 2007, 09:42:54 pm
why has nice replaced his mouth with a lady's front-arse?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Jim on April 17, 2007, 09:46:28 pm
front-bum face nige. you know him by another name?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: cofe on April 17, 2007, 11:06:13 pm

Obviously an easy problem as he didn't bother tying up cofe's laces.

Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 18, 2007, 08:31:09 am
Word. Directions from Jim's house:
M56 to Knutsford/Altrincham junction, A556 past kunts & northwich to sandiway (try not to be distracted by the bakery). Turn left at Sandiway by the big shell garage for A49 Whitchurch. Go round the whitchurch bypass, get on the shrewsbury road, still A49. Grinshill is on the left after some miles, 10 maybe?

I'll email you a rough map of the probs tonight.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 18, 2007, 10:13:04 am
Was at Nesscliffe again last night and we found a wedding ring near the bouldering on the lower bit near Berlin wall. We left it in the pub at the bottom if anyone you know has lost one.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 18, 2007, 05:33:53 pm
Am I to take from this what you are now a fully initiated 'Altrincham All-star'?? What did you ddo last night? Good conditions I imagine?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 18, 2007, 06:00:31 pm
I'm more of a mini-moon. I'm nothing unless the light shines on me.

Did some stuff in the big quarry. A fun little crack on the left, top roped an E3 6a groove on the very left (Nick's guide says often soloed. Fucking glad I wasn't soloing that, or I would have been soiling that). Tried My Snorkel just right, It gets E6 6c, but the hard move is by a peg, so is safe. Seems very doable. Then had a prolonged scuffle up The Pit and the Pendulum. "The best corner-crack in England" according to my partner. Fuck, it really is 150 of solid climbing, a dishearteningly long pitch. Battling with detoriorating rock, nests, dried soil, cobwebs. At one point i breathed in a lungful of bat dust. I kept some of my phlegm in case i develop some arcane lung cancer in years to come. The pathologist may be interested in it.

Can't wait to go back. You have done routes there, Johnny, haven't you?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 18, 2007, 06:18:06 pm
In the dim and distant past. It was far too hot on Saturday, we were delirious. Clm made the same comments about the crack and groove. Effort on The Pit, did you lead? How many runners? Rests? Feel like the big man at the top?

We were bigging it up in the pub after getting it back...
Steady Neil (who didn't go), 'I don't mind, I went to kilnsey',
Us:'Nesscliffe is more impressive.'
Neil guffaws with laughter.
We don't.
'Oh, you're serious?'
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 18, 2007, 06:30:14 pm
Yeah, led The Pit. There is rests, but you still get a full, prolonged body pump. Placed a lot of runners in the first half, which meant that I placed about 3 in the second half.

Did some bouldering too, but the spirit had left the body at that point. I don't think the bouldering would be able to take a lot of hammering there. The rock is a bit soft.

Did CLM say the groove was meaty? That's interesting. It looks a bit like a highball only.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Jim on April 18, 2007, 06:41:45 pm
don't listen to Clm, he knows nothing about climbing!
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on April 18, 2007, 06:55:01 pm
Us:'Nesscliffe is more impressive.'
Neil guffaws with laughter.
We don't.
'Oh, you're serious?'

Too right!
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Jim on April 18, 2007, 07:28:14 pm
Recon will have a trip there tomorrow.
Hit me with those emails word!
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on April 18, 2007, 08:09:12 pm
Johnny, in a rather more helpful vein than the last post, I've done some of the routes, particularly Full Sun, Leaf Storm and Berlin Wall amongst the harder ones. All absolutely brillant but for me, Berlin Wall, depite lacking the soaring grandeur of the big aretes and corners, is the essential tick. Great climbing on a beautiful sheet of rock. Gets E7/8 in the new guide but certainly worth the 7. I know your preference for good style so it might be worth knowing I managed this ground up back in 1989 (I think). Might be worth getting someone else to check the pegs (thankfully not Dixon home made specials) and brush any cobwebs off. Get to it!
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on April 18, 2007, 08:48:10 pm
My last post, not Jim's
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 18, 2007, 09:30:21 pm
Quote
it might be worth knowing I managed this ground up back in 1989

You legend! I'm very impressed.
Following saturday's somewhat embarrassing attempts on the V4 traverse across the bottom I fear I may have to camp at Pex for a year before attempting the same. I think Nige thought my look of dismay when I realised that I wasn't going to do it was worth the drive on its own... well after 12 years, mostly in Sheffield, since my last attempt, I had entertained the thought I might cruise it.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: andy popp on April 19, 2007, 07:46:33 am
I'm somewhat embarassed now! My comments really were only meant as encouragement along the lines of if I can do it etc. You really should give it a go. A couple of mats would obviously ease getting to the first peg. Thinking about it it was probably 90 rather than 89. In the meantime, all you born again Marches sandstone fans really should consider making it to Helsby as well - its well brown (and black and luminous green, especially the latter). There was a mini boom a few weeks back with four new routes in three days, including a particularly fine and tricky little hanging arete. Anyone interested PM me
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: clm on April 19, 2007, 05:54:28 pm
That E3 groove would feel well stiff for a solo.  Did you find the crux at the top grimer?  I was right on tippy toes, and as Jim claims i am "morpho" (a whole 5 11 and a bit.  I top roped it to and then had to "redtoprope" it.

(its a bit high for you jim)
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Percy B on April 19, 2007, 07:55:10 pm
Me and the Weasel had a few good Nesscliffe sesions last year, and will probably head back for more before too long. We had a few good days there when the locals had been cleaning the harder routes up, so holds were clean and chalked, and we got some good beta on crucial gear, etc... I personally found it pretty full on - long sustained pitches with some 'interesting' rock and gear, but awesome all the same. Great long pitches. The Weasel was particularly good value, on-sighting E5's and E6's like they were going out of fashion (which was nice as I had the comfort of a top rope on some pretty harrowing ground). The big E6 corner in the first big main quarry on the right stands out as something I'm so glad I had the benefit of the blunt end on. The Weasles constant stream of expletives was awesome, especially once he got commited and the rain started! If you are climbing E3/4 or harder and want more good long single pitch routes at your grade than you can shake a shitty stick at, get down there. The route that was on on cover of Climber a year or so ago is great fun, although spicy at 'steady E7' (fantastic coach bolt in a break half way up which sticks out about 4 inches from the sand that holds it in...!!!) I haven't bouldered there yet, but will go and sample before to much longer as soon as my guide arrives from those nice folks at V12. :)
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 20, 2007, 09:20:12 am
Yeah probably was the crux near the top. I top roped it too. I think it is probably worth mentioning this as it is a bit naughty, especially considering how friendly it looks from the ground.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: GCW on April 22, 2007, 09:19:13 am
Slightly  :off: as it's Worcestershire.  Anyone ever been to The Hermitage (Southstone Rock)?

I went there once about 9 years ago, on a wet day for a recce.  Strange place.  Sinister woods.  Sinister rock formations.  Sinister moss and lichen.  I shat em and walked off fairly quick.  Had the most bizarre feeling of being un-nerved.   :'(
Totally irrational.  Maybe I shouldn't have gone on my own.   :shrug:
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: dontfollowme on April 22, 2007, 10:09:15 am
I live in Worcestershire and considered this venue but the following comment put me off a bit

 
Quote
Thought I'd take a look as I don't live too far away and fancied something local as an alternative to walls. So today I took the mutt for a strole to this crag. Well I've limited climbing experience but even I could see that this was a pile of c**p. I don't even know why it's listed on this site, okay it's a rock but that's it. Even if the vegetation is cleared you'd need a severe jet-wash to get me even touching the rock. Judging by the stuff left around, the only people who frequent this place just want somewhere out of the way for their sex, drugs and alcohol. I'll never subject me or my dog to this tip again!
crezzer - 22/09/2006

I might go for a look to if there is bouldering potential.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: GCW on April 22, 2007, 10:29:05 am
It was crap in 1997/8.  It was more the sudden feeling of panic associated with it.  I wouldn't go back.  I doubt there would be much bouldering potential either.
Plus they make you pay a quid for the guide!!!!  http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/downloads_1995.htmand there were only 11 routes in 1995   :lol:
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: GCW on April 22, 2007, 10:32:43 am
Flicking through the old guide it says:
Quote
Character
It is difficult to adequately describe the character of this crag, save to say that the atmosphere and ambience here are unique.  For many, including the author, it is a rather frightening  and inhospitable place- rumours that the site is used for witchcraft are entirely plausable.

Glad it wasn't just me  ;D
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: dontfollowme on April 22, 2007, 10:48:46 am
It was crap in 1997/8.  It was more the sudden feeling of panic associated with it.  I wouldn't go back.  I doubt there would be much bouldering potential either.
Plus they make you pay a quid for the guide!!!!  http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/downloads_1995.htmand there were only 11 routes in 1995   :lol:

I'll skip it then. Have you been to Ipkins rock?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: GCW on April 22, 2007, 10:56:55 am
Ippikins?  Some good routes on good rock..... when clean.  Most of the popular routes seemed OK.  Gear isn't plentiful, but sufficient, some pegs.  Stuff there is fingery and strenuous.  Live Evil and White Heat are neat.  Access was a bit delicate when I went (but it is years ago).  Worth a look though.  Pontesford is OK for lower grade routes, again sparse on gear.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: notbadforafatlad on April 28, 2007, 06:24:52 am
Has anyone done Nonsense (Nuance groove all the way) at Nesscliffe? Any comment about quality / grade. One of the best routes at Nesscliffe to my mind.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: grimer on April 28, 2007, 11:45:43 am
no, although fancied a go at nuance next time i go. What's it like?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: notbadforafatlad on April 28, 2007, 12:38:19 pm
Nuance is also superb. It's got everything that you would want from a route at Nesscliffe; it's visually inspiring, with quality moves on rock and gear that you cannot be 100% confident in. I think that Nuance is easier if you are tall, but still memorable. It's been superceded a little as the Nuance arete has also been led now at E6. I've heard it's good also, but I haven't tried it.
 Trouble in Toytown is also excellent and Marlene Corner is surprisingly good.
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: teestub on May 18, 2020, 01:15:05 pm
Thread resurrection! Saw this in the other channel, looks like a decent resource https://shropshirebouldering.co.uk/

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/shropshire_bouldering-719511
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Fiend on May 25, 2021, 10:31:23 am
Nevermind, went Adder hunting instead, but what with the uninterrupted sunshine it was too hot. Luckily I found a Toad instead which saved the day from being a waste.
:lol: :lol:

Cross-posting here for future reference, also digging back through this topic raised some smiles, the halycon days of JB / cofe / Grimer....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o51oaQrooNU

This does NOT contain L'Angle Shropfait / Terminator / Easter Edge as it was a bit too hard for me (came close, quite a crank to the tiny edges higher up, incidentally this isn't actually the King Line of Grinshill.....Libertine (7A+ (!)) is....go check it out sandstoneers).

It does however contain:

JB's "The Third Brother Out Of Five" problem which was brilliant and quite unusual.
"Utopia" - certified by Richie Crouch as "not a warm-up", I concur.
A cameo from The Nesscliffe Monster.

Hopefully it should give an idea what people were all chatting about 14 years ago  ::)
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Will Hunt on May 25, 2021, 11:00:45 am
The photo of JB stood under Terminator earlier in the thread makes it look incredible. Psyched!

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/general%20shit/Shropfait2.jpg?t=1176743477)

Does anyone know where Urban Culture Dispatj is? Only record I can find is on peakbouldering.info - the sole climb listed at "Birchover Quarry", which doesn't have an entry on UKC and might be what is now known as Stanton in the Woods, but no climb of that name there?
Title: Re: shropshire bouldering guide
Post by: Andy B on May 25, 2021, 11:05:12 am
It’s mostly buried at the back of a housing estate that was developed shortly after the first ascent.
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