UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: andy_e on October 08, 2021, 09:39:41 am
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Inspired by Stew and spurred on by Rob's comments that many easier problems are being missed off these lists, here's one for 5+6s! Clearly I need help, crowdsourcing this one, so give me your top 5+6s (and easier!) in Scotland and I'll add them to the list!
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=5385
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Some suggestions, based on my limited experience.
Dumby:
Gorilla
Mestizo
Physical Graffiti
Toto
Glen Nevis:
Maisie Gunn's
Torridon:
Squelch
Kishorn:
Synapse Groove
Reiff in the Woods:
Haven
Reiff:
Earth Shaker
Ardmair:
Changing the Locks
Skye:
Pump up the Jam
Aird Mhighe:
Crystal Voyage
Cummingston:
Masonic Fingershake
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Good start....
Yeah I thought about Masonic Finger Shake but it's a bit eliminate.
Squelch is good but you could populate the list entirely with sub-7s from Torridon!
Pump up the Jam looks horrid.
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PUTJ is world class and deeply wonderful if you can do HVS 5b jamming, you uncouth oaf.
Afterlife / Half Life @ Garheugh
Brin Done Before @ Brin
Long Winning Streak @ Inchbae
LDV @ Camby
Forever Unfulfilled / Right Arete SS @ Farr
Sheep Pen Groove / Peel's Wall @ Clova
White Matter @ St Bride's Wall
Yukon Afternoon @ Clashfarquar
Put A Sock In It @ Torridon
Pyramid Lip @ Glen Ogle
Edit: haven't actually read the list ofc ::)
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you uncouth oaf.
I'll wear that badge with pride
Brin Done Before @ Brin
Long Winning Streak @ Inchbae
Agreed, both were already on the list!
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Ah excellent list creation AndyE. Maybe these need to be hosted on the new bouldering website at some point?
I'm so glad to see Synapse Groove allready. A world class 5 :wub:
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Maybe these need to be hosted on the new bouldering website at some point?
:whistle:
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Ha excellent.....
This is going to be a Looooooong list :great:
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Absolutely NO WAY for Masonic, its the Marzipan/Liquorice/Marmite of that coast i despise that horror show single move shithoose of a problem.
{Sorry for the rant}
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It's a good move, when you do it, but a shit problem until then :lol:
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Peel's Wall @ Clova
Peel Session Sit? Would have suggested it, but the (my?) original seems to have been bastardised by people wanting to claim too many variants.
Bad Buoys Sitter at Yellow Wall
Would have suggested Through it All at Katie Finnie, but the sea has removed the great landing we had last year and it's all jaggy blocks again.
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Haha, here we go.
Personally think 2HB should be in there for Dumby. Supinator is a contender too.
Fatal Poison Whisper (6A) on Rum is amazing. My own Good Baccy at 6C. Highball Paul (6C+) also a contender.
The Secret (6A) at Mini Magic Wood.
Neanderfall (6A+) at Drumore
Celtic Knot in Torridon (agree just about anything in Torridon though. Muir's Masterpiece?)
Mr Ben (6B) in Carn Liath perhaps
Wow Jen (6B+) at Lennoxtown
Keystone Prow (6C) at Eriboll
Watercolour Challenge or Jawa at the Trossachs boulder? Frost Moon at Succoth or Crucifix at the Narnain boulders?
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5s and 6s in one thread? Madness! ;D
OK SW Scotland
Garheugh
Mike's Traverse F6B+
Suck my Woolie F6C
Fiend suggest Afterlife F6C+, if you're a 7th grade climber then maybe, but anyone that is not climbing at this grade doesn't want to jump on this! Some of the other slab climbs like Dumby Boys F5 are more amenable. Same goes for Apprentice Wall at Craigdews.
The above are all great.
I'm trying to think of some standouts from the rest of the region. These are all very good if you want a sample from the area but i'm not sure any should make the top 100 on merit alone. Seems like D&G is a hardcore venue only :-\
Thirlstane
Bad Seed F6C cool moves bit lowball though
Sandyhills
Mary's Massive Mango's F6C - this is good but a bit sharp and doesn't top out
G F6A - varies with level of the beach
Wee Gairy Boulders
The Secret of the Unicorn F6C - really good but the trek to get to it is not
Auchengray
50 Shades of Gray F6C - again very good but a bit lowball
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Thanks Thom and Stew!
Nothing wrong with a lowball...
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Jawa yes, Muir's Masterpiece yes.
Pimp With A Limp - Crianlarich
Rake Humour, Snapster, The Nose - Glen Croe
V3 right of Black Orc, Finch Attack, Squirrel Groove - Glen Nevis
Helipad, Diesel Canary - Glen Coe
Donkey Kong, Good Ass - Kishorn
The Nose Low, Loch Katrine
The groove thing in the middle of the Rankine boulder, Dumfries.
Edit: I suggested Afterlife / Half Life - the former is 6B+ and fine and the original classic of the slab, so that should go in.
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Slippery Slope - Ruthven ;)
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2HB and Gorilla for Dumby for sure. Blue meanie is also a class problem but perhaps not an obvious line.
Everything at Katrine blocs is awesome in the 6th grade, i was just sad there was no outstanding 7 to go on my list. Jawa and Watercolour Challenge get my vote too if i had to pick two.
Agree on Peel Sessions ss at Glen Clova as well
Some other randoms that should be on the list
Craigmaddie
The mantle F6B
Craigmore
Wizard F6B+
Terror Arete F6A
At Dubh-Lic Boulders in Arrochar
The Milkman F6C
Dunure
Cave x arch F6C
Rhue Blocs
The Forge F6B+
Achmelvich Beach
Like a Glove F6B
Coire Lagan Boulder
The Groper F6B
Loch Buie
Danny's Wall F5
Aird Mighe
I think my own Dysleksyx Direct F6C+ is better than Crystal Voyage but both worthy of inclusion.
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Ok here we go- just a taste
Rooftown
Heaven's Gate - (6:40} https://vimeo.com/278305419
War Hammer - https://vimeo.com/292432985
Donnie Murdo - https://vimeo.com/280827124
Barry Valley
Vader - (1:00} https://vimeo.com/211204377
Dirty Rainbow - https://vimeo.com/209987289
Sheigra/Droman/Far north
Pads wet arete - {1:30} https://vimeo.com/232265250
och there is way too many its just ALL good up there ;D
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Creamy Caramel Crunch, Skinidin?
Right Lip, Link Boulder?
Second Right Arete at Farr, Mr Ben at Carn Liath, Brin Done Before, The Forge.
And double down on Masonic Fingershake, it's just such a good move :lol:
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Haha another one
For Inverness area-
Ruthven
The Dude
Cheeky Girls
Austin Powers?
Barry
Crack n Scrape
Dunlichty
Grave of the Fifty
Farr
Right Arete SS
Ben Rinnes
Beehive
Primrose
Bucket Dyno
Black Beards Ghost
Sorry to say but think People thats why, slippery slope (grovel), palmist, masonic (eliminate) and cullen (landing dependent) could all come off.
Torridon- Vapour trail!
Trossachs- Hydroponicum - best 5+ in scotland for me
edit- also agree with peel sessions
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To add a few from out west:
- Danger Zone at Sanna (perfect highball!)
- Dan V's arete in Ardgour/Glen Tarbet?
- More from Mull - the classic arete at Gribun - Keal Over (sit) https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gribun_boulders-21967#photos&gid=1&pid=1
- Also from the Gribun (and blowing my own horn...) but the Keal boulder wall is amazing and the central line (Fladda) is pretty special for the grade https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/49395139983/
Further away - One of the Ruthven easier ones should be in. Outstanding is pretty outstanding. Or the Dude? Agree about Haven. Its great. As was the Flood. Also, not done it, but that 6C thats above Ullapool looks class (Boiler Suit - https://ullapooloutdoors.co.uk/northwestoutdoorsullapool/2015/10/16/obscure-gems-no-3-boiler-suit ). And GazM's nice looking wave problem at Tarvie? And tooting my own trumpet again - but this one has some of the best slopey wrestling action around at 6B- https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/coire_nan_arr_boulders-21391/lugless_willie-445684
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Everything at Katrine blocs is awesome in the 6th grade, i was just sad there was no outstanding 7 to go on my list.
I quite liked moves on Tourist Trap, although the top stayed damp and I never actually completed it.
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Haha another one
For Inverness area-
Ruthven
The Dude
Cheeky Girls
Austin Powers?
Barry
Crack n Scrape
Dunlichty
Grave of the Fifty
Farr
Right Arete SS
Ben Rinnes
Beehive
Primrose
Bucket Dyno
Black Beards Ghost
Sorry to say but think People thats why, slippery slope (grovel), palmist, masonic (eliminate) and cullen (landing dependent) could all come off.
Torridon- Vapour trail!
Trossachs- Hydroponicum - best 5+ in scotland for me
edit- also agree with peel sessions
Ruthven
The Dude - Agree
Cheeky Girls - Agree
Austin Powers - its a No for me
Barry
Crack n Scrape - forgot about this, Great shout
Dunlichty
Grave of the Fifty - Yup absolutely
Farr
Right Arete SS, Not sold on this
Forever Unfulfilled?
Primrose
Bucket Dyno - Maybe...
Black Beards Ghost - Another good shout
Sorry to say but think People thats why, slippery slope (grovel), palmist, masonic (eliminate) and cullen (landing dependent) could all come off. - I agree also, a highly over rated problem, Sloping off is way better.
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I really like slippery slope (it plays to my strength an felt fairly easy) but can see why others don't. I only mentioned it because Fiend scorned it on here recently hence the ;)
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Right, I think I've incorporated everything so far, apologies if I've missed anything. Up to 95 problems. I might let it run on to 150...
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Blue meanie is also a class problem but perhaps not an obvious line.
For me, that's one of the best problems at dumby. So improbable for the grade, and just needs subtlety and balance.
Torino Sun is also class.
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Morning Light, 6C-ish, Ben Narnain. It's the arete on the back of the block high up on the right when you come out of the top of the trees on the way up to The Cobbler. Sit start on the right-hand side of the arete, move round to the left-hand side where the big flakes are, then move back to the right-hand side (crux) by matching the -- err, don't know how to describe it... vertical bar of soap? -- then straight up the right-hand side to finish. Did it in 2010. Landing's a bit rocky, as I recall, but not death-defying (unlike the extremely cool-looking line just left of it...) -- worth lugging a mat up there. It's extremely photogenic. Never gave John a photo, so it's not in the guide.
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If it's not in UKC it ain't getting on the list.
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Seems there's some bloody great 5+6s all over Scotland, which is nice :2thumbsup:
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Hey Tom, DM'd you but not sure you'll see.
Any chance of a (rough?) grid ref for Morning Light? Keen to head up that way to check out the Narnain stuff soon. Cheers!
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The Flood at Reiff in the Woods might deserve one of the remaining spots.
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@Thomnomnom: it's probably this --
56.215624, -4.779841
I have a hard time working out what I'm looking at on Google Maps sometimes, but that's in roughly the right place and it's the right shape. The distinctive feature from below (on the path to The Cobbler) is the steep east face of the boulder hanging over a gully, sometimes clearly visible and sometimes less so, depending on the light. There's a vertical wall on the north side, and the top of the boulder slopes down to the west and south. Hillside is steep below the boulder, but makes terraces sloping away to the west, so I approached from that direction, i.e. bottom-left to top-right up the south-facing slope of Cruach nam Miseag.
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Another interesting list. Here are a few unsolicited thoughts from the areas I know fairly well.
A Long Winning Streak at Inchbae would never make the list for me. It's fine and all, but among the best in the country? Hmm. If an Inchbae problem were to be on the list I'd put Into the West on the Outback Boulder there.
https://flic.kr/p/26Hmgew
On the NW sandstone I'd include Central Roof on the Dam Boulder in Coire nan Arr, Applecross. Beautiful holds on beautiful rock in a beautiful place. Terrible name.
In Torridon I'd remove Careful Talk (good line but an awkward udge to start then all over) and add Twiglets or perhaps Indian Winter.
The Forge at Rhue is a brilliant call from Mr Moles. At Reiff in the Woods Haven is of course the obligatory choice but QC is also a favourite of mine. Last time I was there The Flood needed a serious clean but agree its a brilliant problem. I think if we're looking at the best of the best in the country then I'm not sure I'd include anything on Ardmair Beach, as much as I love the place.
If I was to wave my own flag for the Easter Ross choss that I've been developing in recent years I'd say that The Bends on Tarvie Wall is one of the best 6A+s I know of, but could be a bit biased. https://flic.kr/p/28dKjoa
Finally, I'm torn about Masonic Finger Shake. It's a bit of a travesty if eliminate 1 move problems that jump off at arbitrary jugs are considered among the best of the best, but then can just about see the argument that that one move encapsulates the essence of bouldering.
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I took a ladder out to the Woods a couple of months back and gave The Flood, Highland Spring and other bits a good scrub.
Agree with either Twiglets or Indian Winter over Careful Torque.
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Right, I think I've incorporated everything so far, apologies if I've missed anything. Up to 95 problems. I might let it run on to 150...
To get you past 100
Cummingston
-The Nest
-The Crucifix
Brin Rock
-Spank the Ramp
-White Wall
Craigmaddie
-Undercutter
Wolfcrag
-Hard dyno
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Don't get me wrong, I love Wolfcrag, and Hard Dyno is ace, but if someone turned up there expecting to see one of the best problems in Scotland, I think they'd be, at best, underwhelmed...
Point taken re. Careful Torque! Very good line, perhaps not so good a problem. Not done either Twiglets or Indian Winter, but I'll add them on! To be honest, most of Torridon could go in. Dandy Dons for example...
How could I forget the Forge? Long been one of my favourite ever problems!
I think I've added everything I can... Let me know if I've missed owt!
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ALWS is one of the best very problems of it's grade range around. Great rock, perfect height, good landing, cool and really techy climbing. I think I used 3 consecutive thumb sprags on it. Just as good climbing as Haven and a more elegant situation.
The existence of Wolfcrag shouldn't even be acknowledged anywhere near a thread like this.
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And still nothing at Porty... Although I do think Slap and Tickle, the Prow and the Peedie Prow are all worthy! Any objections to me adding them?!
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I seem to recall that The Prow (is that the 6C thing down near the water) was quite acceptable as it had an actual like and all. Slap And Tickle was a bit grim but maybe okay.
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I took a ladder out to the Woods a couple of months back and gave The Flood, Highland Spring and other bits a good scrub.
Agree with either Twiglets or Indian Winter over Careful Torque.
Nice work Nige!
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All this reiff talk has reminded how good Sparrow Legs to the right of Haven was! Equally classy.
And I thought hosting them on the new website would free them of needing to be on UKC. Keep some mystique in Scottish bouldering with having to chase down TCEs problems to complete the list.
If you need other suggestions to keep Wolf Crag problems at bay, this fridge hug on Kerrera is brilliant: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/catnip_crag-26536/parsley-550884
and the Brandy Stone arete never gets old https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/45934946564/
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And I thought hosting them on the new website would free them of needing to be on UKC. Keep some mystique in Scottish bouldering with having to chase down TCEs problems to complete the list.
This is a good point! I'll have a think how to transfer it...
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and the Brandy Stone arete never gets old https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/45934946564/
That's a good looking boulder. Couldn't find anything from a quick Google, have you got any more details?
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I think it's Oban, on the OS maps as Brandy Rock. But maybe it's not, and we all need to go on a quest...
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I think it's Oban, on the OS maps as Brandy Rock. But maybe it's not, and we all need to go on a quest...
Thats the spirit :clap2:
Its down by the sailing club Ross. Cant miss it. :thumbsup:
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ALWS is one of the best very problems of it's grade range around.
Fair dos, I love that you love ALWS. I guess this just illustrates the brilliant and very subjective way we all enjoy this ludicrous activity!
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I don't love that I can barely type a single post without getting typos in there. "...best vert problems around". My thoughts in 2012, after doing it on the same day as Haven, were "another brilliant technical wall...a must visit for any Scottish boulderer" .
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HUJdUlrMtsc&list=PLL95UmL3lB8k-_K8YywgAJKawfxZtiKzJ&index=20
P.S. And the Portlethen Prow is a line not a like ::)
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ALWS is one of the best very problems of it's grade range around.
Fair dos, I love that you love ALWS. I guess this just illustrates the brilliant and very subjective way we all enjoy this ludicrous activity!
:agree: Well said Gaz
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Pad's Wet Arete is quite high and has a terrible landing. I'm not afraid of a highball, but I've never tried that one. Don't think people will appreciate being pointed at it. Something at Land of Giants instead? Doppelganger is good. And Jamie's Wall is really class.
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Pad's Wet Arete is quite high and has a terrible landing. I'm not afraid of a highball, but I've never tried that one. Don't think people will appreciate being pointed at it. Something at Land of Giants instead? Doppelganger is good. And Jamie's Wall is really class.
:lol: Fair enough Robbie, maybe its best just to Point At It rather than actually climbing It.
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Stane Crusade? Doing a boulder problem in each of the 33 Counties of Scotland?
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Stane Crusade? Doing a boulder problem in each of the 33 Counties of Scotland?
Not so much a crusade as a calling, an obligation - a Geas!
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In case you were unaware reference to Sherman book where he tries to boulder in in each of the States.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stone-Crusade-Historical-Bouldering-American/dp/0930410629
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Intriguing... I wonder if there are any counties without boulder problems? I wouldn't be surprised...
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I did have a quick squizz at a map, Borders maybe? although Lowland Outcrops does list some esoterica in that area.
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In case you were unaware reference to Sherman book where he tries to boulder in in each of the States.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stone-Crusade-Historical-Bouldering-American/dp/0930410629
Ah showing my ignorance. That looks an amazing book. And what a cover.
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I don't think South Lanarkshire has any climbing at all.
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I don't think South Lanarkshire has any climbing at all.
You may well be right! :jaw:
Just looked on the logbook on the other channel as I thought Loudoun Hill was in South Lanarkshire but it is just over the border, same with Court Knowe. There are a couple of climbs logged on what look like railway embankments/pillars but that seems to be it.
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In case you were unaware reference to Sherman book where he tries to boulder in in each of the States.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stone-Crusade-Historical-Bouldering-American/dp/0930410629
Ah showing my ignorance. That looks an amazing book. And what a cover.
Definitely worth seeking out, as is Sherman Exposed, a collection of short stories and articles by him.
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I don't think South Lanarkshire has any climbing at all.
There are a couple of climbs logged on what look like railway embankments/pillars but that seems to be it.
As it happens, I was raised on South Lanarkshire (near Biggar). My brother and I did a bunch of easy climbing on some abandoned railway pillars where the A72 crosses the Clyde. We also found an old quarry in Biggar which was chossy and dirty. Otherwise, there was nothing around. Worst place to live as a boulderer!
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By Sherman's standards, the quarry would count. I think Louisiana and maybe one or two others were ones he failed to find climbable rock.
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Louisiana was the hold-out. Since his trip a couple of problems have been reported at the mighty Kistachie Boulder (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/118138691/sandy-cheeks). Others have failed to find the craglet and it not clear it if it actually exists.
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In case you were unaware reference to Sherman book where he tries to boulder in in each of the States.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stone-Crusade-Historical-Bouldering-American/dp/0930410629
Definitely worth seeking out, as is Sherman Exposed, a collection of short stories and articles by him.
Terribly cheeky, but would anyone have a copy I could borrow?
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Terribly cheeky, but would anyone have a copy I could borrow?
Messaged you btw.
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Just wanted to add a candidate to the list. I don't get to travel about too much these days so it's rare I get out of my local area to sample other stuff, but I had the chance this last week and really think the Keystone Prow on the east shore of Loch Eribol at around 6C must be up there among the best problems I've done anywhere. A blatantly obvious line through an impressive feature with the crux at the end, out on its own on the shore of a beautiful north coast sea loch. Pretty much the definition of quality for me.
Edit: just spotted that it's already on the list! Oops. But happy to confirm it definitely deserves to be there.
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Combinable with Rispond stuff?
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Combinable with Rispond stuff?
Not too far in distance (by Scottish standards) but the road from hell in summer....
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Would be well clear in Summer! Thinking of a NW trip for Tattie Hols.
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That'd be ok, I think.Message me if it happens.
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Definitely.