UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: zloty_dziecko on September 10, 2018, 12:00:08 pm
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Hi guys, looking for suggestions for a decent venue in Europe for the end of October or first week of November for a week trip. Will be on my own, 1 maybe 2 pads, so nowhere with horrific landings please. I'm now going to limit myself, I only want to climb somewhere I haven't been before so that rules out Albarracin, Font, Cresciano and Chironico. Currently Oukaimeden in Morroco is top of the list but a bit unsure how good it actually is. Anyone got any suggestions, the more off the beaten track the better, went to Prilep in Macedonia this year and loved it.
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A quick google threw up these places. Not been myself but worth a look maybe?
Sardinia
La Pedriza (Spain)
Elba (Italy)
Bafa Lake (Turkey) http://www.lakebafa.org/category/bafa-lake-bouldering/
Tinos (Greece)
Tenerife
Brione
Annot
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Depending where you are off the beaten track in Turkey and how well you speak the lingo, you may have a few encounters with the police. Speaking from experience of doing fieldwork out there for the last year or 2.
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No idea if it meets the height / pad criteria but Santa Gadea in Spain looks amazing to me.
Is there enough on Tenerife for a trip?
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La Pedriza.
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Val Di mello. Targasinne.
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Targasonne
Targasinne
Targaso-o-o-o-onne.
(sorry - losing it).
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Don't go to Oukaimeden and expect quality like any of the venues you listed as previously visited. There is good bouldering and rock* and its a great place to go to get off the beaten track and have an adventure but it is not a world class bouldering location IMO.
*only sampled three or four crags over a couple of days, its entirely possible that I missed the best stuff!
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Would magic wood be too cold by then?
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Would magic wood be too cold by then?
It’s more the snow/rain that’s an issue there that time of year. I think you can get lucky in dry Octobers and have unicorn conditions.
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Would magic wood be too cold by then?
It’s more the snow/rain that’s an issue there that time of year. I think you can get lucky in dry Octobers and have unicorn conditions.
October might be worth a punt but I wouldn’t risk November (unless already in the area). I find it amusing that’s its viewed as a summer crag. It’s usually flipping roasting.
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Agree completely, it seems more to be a least worst option for the summer, rather than actually having good conditions.
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Where in the northern hemisphere does have good conditions in the summer??
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Scandinavia? When it's not raining..
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Where in the northern hemisphere does have good conditions in the summer??
A lot of the UK can be good in the summer when we’re not in a heatwave.Maybe not grit and sandstone but plenty of other stuff can be. 15 degrees and a breezy day is all you need for most mountain bouldering etc... Usually happens quite a lot over course of summer. Not this year obviously!
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Vastervik maybe?
Or check out Rogaland around Stavanger in Norway, supposed to be A LOT of rock there.
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Or check out Rogaland around Stavanger in Norway, supposed to be A LOT of rock there.
I’ve bouldered at Sirevag in March. The rock is very rough gneiss/granite which would be pretty unpleasant if it was warm. It also rains a lot. Worth going to if you want to do FAs as there’s basically rock everywhere and not many climbers.
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Cheers for the replies everyone.
Targasonne
Targasinne
Targaso-o-o-o-onne.
(sorry - losing it).
Off to Targassonne in a couple of weeks, had written off Norway due to price. Vastervik or Val di Mello were both in the back of my mind but was thinking to go there early next year. Have just emailed the guy who writes the guidebook for that crag in Turkey, I quite like the sound of the place.
Don't go to Oukaimeden and expect quality like any of the venues you listed as previously visited. There is good bouldering and rock* and its a great place to go to get off the beaten track and have an adventure but it is not a world class bouldering location IMO.
*only sampled three or four crags over a couple of days, its entirely possible that I missed the best stuff!
This is what worries me, I'm not expecting world class lines, but have the feeling I will still be let down!
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I'd be interested to hear how you get on at Bafa, it is in the middle of one of my work areas so I have a slim chance of a half day there at some point next spring.