UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fiend on October 22, 2005, 05:39:25 pm
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What's the score on this? Given the usual power / weight / sex issues, how do women fare with the old one arm crankage then?? Can many do it?? Is it disproportionally harder than, say, the climbing grade gap?? Is it fairly prohibited by physiology?? Could an averagely physically fit girl do one with enough training??
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Watched a spanish climbing video and there was a section showing josune beziartu (sp?) training. Don't remember if she was doing one-armers, but the way she campussed was quite interesting, a lot slower and more sidewards than man usually do it. Less bang bang bang and more grrr grrr grrr.
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Why I felt the need to investigate this I don't know. But anyway:
http://www.varyaakulova.com/about2.html
Can Varya do a one arm pullup?
Yes. Easy for her.
She can easily lift a 125 boy over her head with one hand. She can lift 3 men at one time. She can do pushups with 2 girls sitting on her back. She can do two arm pull-ups while a girl hangs on to her.
They missed out the essential question.
Can Varya climb V15?
Yes, with a small boy on her back. Once she flashed a V11 using only her pinkies. (She can lift 82 lb. dumbbell with one pinkie.) Her father can claim to have climbed V7, though only because Varya was carrying him up it...
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And this on John Gill's website:
I believe the "world record" - established in Philadelphia in 1918 - for consecutive one-arm pull-ups (27) is still held by a German female circus performer from that era: Lillian Leitzel (1892-1931). Her circus routine was done on a single suspended ring or rope, from which she did various stunts hanging from one arm. She was 4'9" tall and weighed 95 pounds. It appears quite unlikely she did the pull-ups from full extension.
Are there any women now who can do one-arm pull-ups? There must be, but I haven't heard of any. Beyond that, there is substantial uncertainty about any sort of world record - male or female - in this strength category. Claims abound on internet forums . . .
27! :shock:
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Watched a spanish climbing video and there was a section showing josune beziartu (sp?) training.
Was it online? would be interested to see, any links?
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No, there's no clips of that particular section, but the movie is called Pais de Roca ("Rock Country") and the trailer is here: http://www.avistamultimedia.com/Trailers/PaisClipWm.wmv
Quite a good movie, though you don't see that much in the trailer.
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What's the deal with one armers? What does `flicked' mean? If people don't say they start and return to full extension at the bottom do you assume they don't (that they only lower down to 160 degrees or something) cos that's harder and they'd say? Are you allowed or supposed to pull all the way into a lock at the top, for what Dave calls a `mechanical rest' (wish I was strong enough to rest there), is that cheating, or is it not cheating but a crap way to train, or does it stop your Grrrrr, or is it what you do?
I regard One armers as eliminate anyway. If I ever need to do a one armer on a route then I'll (fall off but in my dreams I'll) grab my wrist with the other hand and pull up with two arms.
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AFAIK, "flicked" means that you jerk your lower body up to provide momentum to start the one armer.
Anyone any further on the knowing how many chicks can do them front?
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a girl on the French climbing team can campus 1-4-7 (small rungs) and do a one-arm pullup, think her name is Cecile. :)
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probably a bit out of date....
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Chinups.html
lillian something or other did 6 in 1918, but check out Ben Piers, this is now my new target......
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:shock:
One-finger one-arm front lever on a ring (middle finger), then chinning to the ring in that position - at age 60(middle finger)
My word!
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Even the lottery can't get you that. Or Captains of Crush...
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too true
makes you wonder what he could have done when he was strong
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This aint shabby either:
Jasper Benincasa - A resident of Brooklyn, NY, Benincasa, now in his 80s, has relearned a one-arm chin, despite a lack of muscle tissue - he credits his latest achievement to "strong tendons and ligaments" and a diminished weight of approximately 126 lbs.
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No, there's no clips of that particular section, but the movie is called Pais de Roca ("Rock Country") and the trailer is here: http://www.avistamultimedia.com/Trailers/PaisClipWm.wmv
Quite a good movie, though you don't see that much in the trailer.
Is it the same clip as on this video? sorry for thread ressurection:
ftp://153.19.47.73/Josune_Bereziartu_Honky_mix_8c+.wmv
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Is it the same clip as on this video? sorry for thread ressurection:
ftp://153.19.47.73/Josune_Bereziartu_Honky_mix_8c+.wmv
Yeah I think so. Never seen anyone mantel the rungs like that before! Nice little movie.
...Don't worry about thread ressurection - it's always good to see something new added to an old thread.