2
« Last post by duncan on Today at 09:51:56 am »
Hi alba, I had a ~10 year break, resuming in my mid 30s. At that age the movement and strength for single moves came back fairly quickly, confidence had declined naturally and healthily from the madness of my early 20s, but the 'short endurance' for sport routes took me quite a while to regain. Also found I needed two months rather than two weeks to recover from a similar tweak (and it gets worse), so good luck, have fun, and take it steadily!
M -
T - Fingerboard pickups, 36kg, left only. Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.
W - Westway, leading routes to 6a and some falls practice. Shoulder/elbow conditioning: reverse curls, handstands, side planks.
T - Hip flexibility.
F - Fingerboard pick-up as above, stopped early as feeling tweaky. Walked 10km.
S - Shoulder/elbow conditioning. Hip flexibility. Fingerboard pick-up as above.
S - 8-9km brisk walk today, and most days this week.
A bunch of test results came back, nothing meriting heroic broadly positive, somewhat raised HDL so GP wants to put me on statins as they do, not sure what I think about this. A brief search on dietary advice reveals the usual complete mess of conflicting information apparently riddled with biases and agendas. Any suggestions on where to start, I'm more than happy to read original papers Trying to organise a follow-up with the medical team.
Not much climbing this week. After about 75 practice falls this month short ones now feel casual again. I've noticed it makes a positive difference if I focus on the landing zone rather than the bolt when I drop off. As it's often when I’m eyeballing the bolt that I'm most gripped on lead this is something to practise when I've got another couple of hundred in the bank.
Back feels good, shoulders feel good, wrists feel good, knees feel good, hips are not too bad considering, (left) ankle is creaky, (right) elbow is sore which is tiresome. Stretching a bit more consistently, not a habit yet.
I should probably give my fingers a short break and wonder if a complete week of rest from any kind of arm exercise might be in order for my elbow which, after six weeks of mild-moderate activity, is frustratingly unchanged.