UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on September 15, 2019, 12:15:07 pm
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10.13-11.0 Average 158.8lb down 0.1lb
M.
T.
W. Malham with Tommy. 16/17degrees but occasional wind blowing across crag made for decent conditions. Go 1 Jumar to top traverse and work moves then link it to top Go 2 Pull up to third. Warm into throw move then do it Go 3 Do bottom wall imperfectly and get cramped sidepull badly with confidence ebbing away carry on and got height on throw but failed to grab due to lack of belief Go4 Much better flawless ascent of bottom wall set up well for throw then just as starting to launch right hand shot off intermediate Go5 Bit tired on initial wall and a foot slip but got to touch the horn Walk. Go 6 weather went still and warmer. Fell off going to cramped sidepull. Short rests and tried to do links above but too busted. Getting dark so no time to do laps on F&EE so did 3 strict half crimp hangs to failure. Tommy got on to top traverse 4x
T
F AM Goat was insistent on Curbar despite sunny weather so he could check out Super Size Me which he’d homed in on as a potentially suitable long term project. Still just in shade when we got there but I quickly lost power, then patience, then temper on Bad Lip 7A. Left boys to it and bushwhacked up to main edge to go soloing to cheer myself up. Did PMC1 (so steep for HS) backed off Kayak E1 (reachy) then did Curbar Corner 5, Little Stiffer 6A and Neat 5+. Finished with the Avalanche Wall HVS and Maupassant HVS - both brilliant. Boys both ticked Bad Lip and the 7B traverse into it. Felt tired when got home so had a nap
Eve Lengthy session as took long rests of Gaston and undercut training then Weighted deadhangs on ergo edge. Good scores
S PM Systems Board Warm Up then 4 repeats of Oak PE circuit with 3 mins rest between long rest then Edges and screw on footholds 20 moves 20sec Rest 10 moves 20secs Rest 10 moves. 5mins Rest Then 15 moves feet slipping 10 mins rest 20/10 managing 70 moves alternating slopey jugs and incut edges timing 2sec per move
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Disappointing performance on the Oak on weds not quite getting through throw move. Tantalising close but been there before. Going to back off it until temps drop and in the meantime I’ll do some specific training and lose a little more weight. Started to cut out alcohol- not before time. Also conscious I need to improve endurance for Red River Gorge in Nov. I’ve always found systems board laps effective so will do a couple of sessions per week. Heading back to Malham on weds so Tommy can go on the Oak so I’ll go on Mescalito (three star soft 7c+) which I’ve occasionally dabbled on over the years.
RGinns, woodworker extraordinaire, is working on the final iteration of the Ergo Edge which is a work of art. I’ve made great gains from the Ergo Edge this year. Hopefully be able to make it widely available in a few weeks. It is a complex shape that is really difficult to make so unfortunately won’t be cheap.
2nd redpoint attempt (best go but hand slipped off intermediate as initiating launch)
https://youtu.be/G_-WfRwXTwQ
3rd redpoint attempt (tired)
https://youtu.be/Pv_JcNLW2Gs
Tommy on the Oak
https://youtu.be/sekgzEdx53c
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M - Rest
T - Pottering around new problems, jumping around and campusing. Pretty chill indoor climbing day.
W - Training day, managed to get a personal best on one arm hangs of -2kg for 7 seconds and a clean one arm pullup with -3kg. Getting close to 1-8 bumps on either arm, 7-8 feels big but I'm hitting it reasonably well so it might go soon. Bonus 6ish second front lever rounded the day off nicely.
T - Rest
F - Climbed a bunch of greens at the valley and reacquainted myself with the moonboard, fell off a bunch of things that used to feel easy so a pretty great session. Did my best iron cross attempt thus far too, only a few degrees off getting flat arms.
S - Training day, warmed up by flashing every yellow at the valley in 15-20ish minutes. +53kg hang on the 18mm 1k edges for 7 seconds, psyched to go 3kg over my previous best a few months ago. Shortly followed by an okay 2 rep max pullup of +45kg, which seems like a potential weakness when compared to everything else I'm doing. Will be adding weighted pullups a couple of times a week to my routine, or one arm pullup training. Might make +50kg a short - medium term goal. Finished with prone T's, front levers, leg raises and a bunch of floor core to really trash my core strength. Then another half hour of climbing intermediate valley problems to cool down because I felt like a degenerate gym bro, lots of techy stuff.
S - Rest but still very psyched, so posting on ukb instead of climbing. Rest days are both the best and worst days...
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I’ve made great gains from the Ergo Edge this year.
Do you mean great gains ON or FROM the edge? I'm struggling to square the latter with your recent posts about not feeling good on the Oak?
P.s. what is it again?
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P.p.s. that wasn't meant to sound mean, more a genuine question/thought around not measuring gains using the training protocol..
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I’ve made great gains from the Ergo Edge this year.
Do you mean great gains ON or FROM the edge? I'm struggling to square the latter with your recent posts about not feeling good on the Oak?
Yes mainly on. I can hang on it with more weight (about 10-12kg extra) and the gains have translated to a more conventional edge and pulling on small holds on my systems board. I generally feel stronger in my fingers outdoors. It’s gutting that the extra fingerboarding I’ve done this year hasn’t given me the extra something I hoped it would for the Oak so other factors are obviously at play.
P.s. what is it again?
It’s an ergonomically shaped hold that allows you to have all your fingers at the same joint angle when hanging.
Here’s a CAD model of the first prototype. We’ve since added an angle at the back for a neutral hanging position
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QJeuX5zfhLc&feature=share
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Keep on truckin’ Sharkus.
Tu: Anston - to RP reservation... I was really shit. Sunday’s exploits at Blackstone had taken it out of me and I was really shit. Just couldn’t do what I could the week before, Pants.
Fri: Met up with Nai at Griffs. First 2019 session there... having mined out all I could do last year and getting stuck on Ovine. Felt creaky - but felt better on Ovine - and managed to pinch the RH crimp to bring LH across that I couldn’t do last year.. all that RH pinching on Nazgul LH has helped.. So got close/up to my high point from last year with a method I wasn’t strong enough to do. So alright I guess... Went to try R-Man and Davids problems left of PiB up the road. Had a mad 20 min trying loads of time on the 7A and ran out of beans. Felt suitably trashed afterwards!
Went and met Mrs and friends at Lyme Park on the way home and needed up going for an early dinner with them and our respective children. Lobster linguine... superb.
Sa - Sun. MrsTT away - so just me and the Boy all weekend. Good fun - but came down with something on sat PM - felt dreadful and only ate a bowl of rice and a magnum... slept badly - felt better/fine Sunday. But hard work being ill with a 3yo... (smallest violin etc...)
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But hard work being ill with a 3yo... (smallest violin etc...)
On the contrary that sounds like it requires a full string quartet. Grim. I hope Peppa Pig or equivalent came to the rescue.
Tue - Ilkley with the LMC. Did a couple of warm ups then played briefly on First Arete. Way too warm for it but could be a goer in the cold. Then went to look at Olicana Arete. Fuck me. Nice climbing through the roof then a right hand crimp with a stupid sharp pebble in it (why has noone knocked this off with a toffee hammer yet?!) and you have to wriggle both feet onto the lip. Bunched as fuck. Couldn't touch it. Had a strop. Ilkley makes me wonder why I go climbing. Played on some easy stuff at it got dark.
Sun - crap forecast further west so off to Troller's. Warmed up with some downgrading on Old Man's Crag then into the gill and dogged up Hoodoo Guru, which is the only non girdle thing below 7c that I haven't done in there yet. Belayed James on Angelic Upstart which he cruised first go of the session, so he was chuffed. Did Hoodoo Guru then did some of the easy slabs on the opposite wall.
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Then went to look at Olicana Arete. Fuck me.
Congratulations on finding one of the rarest of problems ‘Easier for the Short’! Don’t remember a minging crimp though, but it’s been a while. First arête also v sandbag except in the best of conditions. Lovely wide pinches.
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I’ve made great gains from the Ergo Edge this year.
Do you mean great gains ON or FROM the edge? I'm struggling to square the latter with your recent posts about not feeling good on the Oak?
Yes mainly on. I can hang on it with more weight (about 10-12kg extra) and the gains have translated to a more conventional edge and pulling on small holds on my systems board. I generally feel stronger in my fingers outdoors. It’s gutting that the extra fingerboarding I’ve done this year hasn’t given me the extra something I hoped it would for the Oak so other factors are obviously at play.
It's just power. Sorry to be giving unsolicited advice to go with the full series of encyclopedia britannica of unsolicited advice already given. It's just glaringly obvious to me, having done that move/route, that you lack the simple power to suck-in, throw and hold the horn.
You can do from the ground to the throw move regularly and - I think - you, can do from the horn to the top regularly enough to be in with a reasonable chance. So you have the endurance, power endurance and finger strength. You have the moves dialled after 11 years of trying them. You simply lack that little bit of 'oomph' on steep ground.
It's like a moonboard move - a shitty little sidepull, poor feet, a bit bunched, suck in and throw up right for a decent hold. I'd bet my month's wages that you're really shit on moonboard 6C-7As. The good thing is, power can be tuned up in very short time. If you can do that throw move regularly you'll send the route I reckon.
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It's just glaringly obvious to me, having done that move/route, that you lack the simple power to suck-in, throw and hold the horn....I'd bet my month's wages that you're really shit on moonboard 6C-7As. The good thing is, power can be tuned up in very short time. If you can do that throw move regularly you'll send the route I reckon.
I’m not convinced that I can acquire power quickly. Repeated attempts at the actual throw move or replicas on my various boards over the years don’t seem to have made that much difference.
Yes I was pretty rubbish when I dabbled on the Moonboard and it’s been something I’ve been meaning to get stuck into but bouldering outside or on the Wave have been more attractive.
Something to commit to this winter.
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In my experience you might be surprised how quickly power can be improved. As little as two weeks, once or twice per week can be enough to see a difference. (cue debate about neurological changes v muscle fibre changes). It's worth a go because you aren't going to be improving anything else (except maybe power endurance) in the time remaining till you stop trying the route this year.
Simple workout without a campus or moonboard (you could replace the rope climb with weighted throws on your board followed by rapid bodyweight pullups): https://nicros.com/training/training-articles/basic-power-training-without-a-campus-board/
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Is this stuff you’ve done? Gym rope is impractical. I can use the campus board and Moonboard at the Foundry.
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Offer Tommy an arm wrestle. You'll soon see if you've got enough power or not...
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Is this stuff you’ve done? Gym rope is impractical. I can use the campus board and Moonboard at the Foundry.
Yes!!
As someone at similar grade impass, the moonboard is the best indoor option to get the power and tension needed.
A couple sessions with high-ish volume of flash/2 go boulders focusing on engaging the body through every move.
Then a couple sessions of 'on the minute boulders' for 10-20 minutes with 'hard flash' difficulty has had surprising mid season carryover
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M - Well earned rest day.
T - Pull day. Start with rack pulls and go up to 170 with relative ease. Then move on to some weighted pull-ups for 5x5 with weight added up to 25k. Finish with some prone rows with isometric locks at the top and some Aussie rows on the bands for stability.
W - Still got a sore finger and Achilles has started bugling again do decide that discretion is the better part of valour and all that do lay off for the day.
T - Testing the finger on the blue reset at the Depot. The plan was to just see how things go and to try to climb with good form throughout. Things went pretty much to you man. Finger pain in a very limited number of positions and only moderate in any case. As pain reduces in middle finger, it’s become more apparent that there is discomfort in all my front three fingers. Pretty sure will recover soon and is down to cracking my fingers in a pocket. Did lots of the blues and then went on to ticking a couple more purples so happy with that.
F - Mad busy at work so do pretty much nothing apart from a bit of shoulder and Da. Achilles rehab.
S - Still working on rehab and taking it easy. Nice walk around Scammonden reservoir with Mrs B. Great views........if you ignore the M62.
S - Trip to Manchester Depot. Get stuck into the reds and generally pretty successful. Good to get a load of volume done and just doing stuff. Think the problems are really good, quite techy and lots of slopes and Font-esque holds. Great to see Pusher holds again as always found these very training friendly. No problems with the fingers either which is an extra bonus.
A busy work week that has got in the way of things quite a lot, but has been really good for recovery so not a complete loss.
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Well done cheque and TTT last week.
STG: rehab. shoulder
MTG/LTG: not sure
M - Shoulder strength. Westway bouldering to ‘V2’. Shoulder tweaky.
T - Brisk walk
W - Fingerboard pick-ups: warm-up then 7 reps of 35kg for 10 seconds.
T - Shoulder strength.
F - Shoulder strength. Westway bouldering to ‘V1’. Still a bit tweaky.
S - Shoulder strength.
S - Westway routes: V x3, V+ x1.
M - Fingerboard pick-ups: 35kg on 18mm edge.
T - Shoulder strength
W - Fingerboard hangs; 5seconds on a 25mm edge. Shoulder tolerated this.
T - Shoulder strength
F - Alpine start and drove to Devon to meet AJM at Haytor. Dartmoor was sublime and the weather ideal. 'Warmed-up' on Canis. This was mossier than Saihō-ji temple (http://saihoji-kokedera.com/en/about.html) and was a non-tranquil experience involving some rather un-Zen gardening. Had fun on Outward Bound, Levitation, and some even easier stuff. Shoulder wasn’t feeling ideal so drove back home arriving very late.
S - Exhausted, not much other than a brisk walk
S - Westway bouldering to ‘V2’. Shoulder strength.
Family off again til the new year. In theory this is a great opportunity to climb to my heart’s content but it has coincided with an irritating tweak and it feels like the door is rapidly closing on the trad. season. Shoulder progress is slow and frustratingly I have already had to bail on two great-sounding weekends so it was good to get out do some easy trad. somewhere new. My first climbing trip to Dartmoor in 2009 resulted in a ruptured PCL after 10 minutes so the second visit was a considerable improvement! Keen to go back for some of the harder routes on Low Man when I’m fit again.
Plan: continue rehab, more easy trad.
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Is this stuff you’ve done? Gym rope is impractical. I can use the campus board and Moonboard at the Foundry.
Isn't there a gym rope in the Furnace, opposite corner to the campus board?
edit: although up and down large rungs on the campus board would be pretty much the same?
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Isn't there a gym rope in the Furnace, opposite corner to the campus board?
edit: although up and down large rungs on the campus board would be pretty much the same?
Now you mention it I think there is. Never seen it being used
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RE Ergo Edge, what's the thinking behind it? It seems counter-intuitive to me given that it's less like most holds you'll encounter outdoors than a simple edge or pocket?
I can't comment on power requirements for the Oak having never been on it, but Pete is right that climbing on the Moon board (or school 55 board) is much more power orientated than most bouldering outside or on the wave, so it might be worth a punt. What's the worst that can happen...
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. What's the worst that can happen...
He doesn’t grab the horn.
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M - rest.
T - Depot. Standard session without too much to report. Finger hurt annoyingly. Felt fit and pretty strong.
W - rest.
T - Depot. Light session. Just did a bit to tick over and left before I got tired in an effort to be in good shape for the weekend.
F - rest.
S - Malham. Good conditions with the breeze but still sunny. Dogged up and warmed up without too much bother on 8a link. Through bulge from ground fairly easily and up the headwall. Tried Stus's suggestion of just cracking on from the top rest and fell off at the same place! Felt a bit frantic and rushed on it so think the rest is good to just calm me down as much as resetting my arms. Was worth a go though. Couldn't get through boulder next go so left it for the day.
S - Malham. Through bulge on warmup go feeling strong. Suffering with horrific dry mouth (nerves?) which was all I could think about in the rests. Hit the crimps in still conditions and came off; slightly shit effort but I just knew it wasn't happening. Had a play around and tweaked body position on the crucial move; dropping my right knee in seemed to make the move more static so decided to try that when next up there. Had long 2 hour rest before another go. Somehow made it through boulder with a massive fight and recovered well. Felt good in top rest and implemented new sequence on crux section. Absolutely pissed the move and set up for the big throw. Laid one on, hit the hold, held it for half a second before coming off. Gutted as if I hold it I think I go to the top. In mitigation, third time up that weekend and conditions were poor. Slightly more friciton on the hold and I would have done it.
3x through the bulge in the weekend and new beta is a gamechanger. Back for a redpoint or two next weekend and midweek the week after if required. Confidence has returned with the tweak in the sequence; if I get through the bulge I back myself to do it. Two sessions maximum before Spain; pressures on!
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:boxing:
Fingers crossed, Jim.
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RE Ergo Edge, what's the thinking behind it? It seems counter-intuitive to me given that it's less like most holds you'll encounter outdoors than a simple edge or pocket?
It was originally Mina saying that strict half crimp was a really good grip to train as the optimum second joint angle is 90 degrees. Dave insisted she do the half crimp (she called it a chisel) strictly. Like her I struggled to hang body weight on a medium sized edge with this grip to begin with but soon improved.
It then occurred to that if the edge was designed for the different finger lengths then it would be a more natural/comfortable way to train the fingers at the same angle whether half crimped, crimped or drag on the basis that the flexors getting the training stimulus don’t care what the shape of the hold is.
Dave talks about what I call ‘strict’ half crimp here starting at 58secs.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eKwkKaKluuk
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Sounds close Spidermonkey!
Rehab Diaries Week Fifty-six
STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (7/27 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.
M- Rest.
T- Five sets of 6 pullups and 20 pushups during the day.
W- Rest.
T- Seven sets of 4 pullups on the doorframe throughout the work day.
F- Rest.
S- Bamford. Two HVSs here I wanted to try. After a warm-up I got on one (The Happy Wanderer (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPfGL0tDP30)) which, after watching Reeve climb it while taking photos and his gear still being in I had a decent chance at. Rushed the lower crux though and got pumped and over-committed (would have been much more cautious if I'd have placed my own kit...) so hung. The higher crux is a biggish reach with the gear around your knees and I'm pleased to have done this on lead despite not having the incentive of success on the route to spur me on.
Got cold belaying in the wind and that area of the crag was a bit of a clusterfuck so opted to move on and second a few routes before returning for the other HVS. I was absolutely determined to second Wrong Hand Route (https://www.instagram.com/p/B2b7PWlj601/) (E1 5c) clean but despite having detailed beta on how to avoid going wrong-handed on the crux I still managed it. :slap: However with some power-shouting I did succeed in doing it the burly way :dance1: but was dizzy and nauseous at the top.
After seconding a VS I then elected to do Bilberry crack (an innocuous-looking VS 5a slabby corner crack) to finish as I felt too worked to try the HVS. It turned out to be both harder and steeper than I thought and quite demanding of foot strength and bridging ability... got up it but halfway up I got a headache and by the time we walked out I had full-on sunstroke-like symptoms (headache, nausea :sick:, even breathlessness(!) in the car) that I can only atribute to exhaustion. Went straight to bed when I got home.
S- Rest. Tired and sore but relieved to not actually be ill. Ate loads.
Sunday was the first anniversary of climbing outdoors for the first time since my accident. I seconded three Severes that day, they all felt desperate and I was wasted afterwards, so I've made good progress depite not having (yet) hit my target of onsighting an HVS.
I think my prep for that is going well- I've recently been on a little phase of doing basic strength stuff throught the work day which has made me feel like I have more "Oomph" when climbing and I am getting more confident and decisive on the lead. The hours I've been spending cleaning on abseil recently have helped with this- on Saturday I hung on a green Alien :alien: and a sideways wire when about 10m up without pooing myself which is massive progress! Getting completely wasted on Saturday is probably a good sign that I need a restful week before the week off work at the end of the month :bounce: during which I hope to tick my goal. The donkey work I clearly need to do on my pulmonary fitness is going to have to wait 'til after that...
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Yeah, I do a lot of "forced" half-crimp in my hangs (when not injured), because it's quite an "active" grip - i.e. you have to try hard in the forearm, and it's applicable to lots of holds (edges + pinches)... but I'm still not sure I see the advantage vs an edge..? It seems like taking an edge and making it less specific to climbing holds? There's nothing magic about 90 degrees. I guess it means you can train your pinky in a half-crimp more easily without putting the first 3 fingers into a more aggressive crimp-with-no-thumb position, but since my pinky drags on most holds anyway I'm not sure how advantageous that would be?
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Going to join PC over winter in an effort get better…….
M – AeroCap @ -42.7kg, Max Hangs @ +13kg
T – Bouldering at Depot, fingery problems on the 30 plus easy yellow facing comp wall (flash) and easy yellow facing café (failed on match on second to last hold)
W – Rest
T – Bouldering at Depot, fingery problems on the 30 plus easy yellow arete problem (ticked)
F – Rest (Should have been Aero Cap and Max Hangs but life etc….)
S - AeroCap @ -40.7kg, Max Hangs @ +15kg (2kg lighter so changed resistance to maintain effort/load)
S – Stanton with Sam. Brad’s Arete ticked after needing different beta to Sam and struggling a high step. Brutal Arete/Spare Rib looked awesome but was green/smeggy and the right-hand crimp felt very greasy. Good day out.
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Sounds like you're making excellent progress Cheque, glad it's going well on the physical and psychological side.
Goal: what goal? ;D
Not a great deal this week after my first 3-climbing-sessions-in-a-week week for probably about 5+ years.
M: felt really crappy after celebrating my goal completion / 7a tickage with 3 x small cans of craft beer Sunday night - first booze for 2 months. Quite a bit of shoulder pain.
T: nowt
W: nowt
T: Depot after work (think I saw Gollum leaving as I arrived... :weakbench: ). OK session trying the new comp set, put in a good showing but man it was busy and warm. Finally introduced myself properly to Andy_E as well. Left earlier than I'd usually do as I started feeling a bit queasy and light-headed.
F: nowt. Shoulder pain again.
S: nowt
S: taking daughter to her cousin's birthday party at...The Climbing Lab. Finally, a kid's birthday party I actually want to go to!
Actually ended up driving my nieces over - youngest went to the party and climbed with the others but eldest (12) stuck around with me and we had a good session, pottering / mileage for me and she climbed well given she's done nothing for about 3 years!
Assuming it's increased volume or intensity but my dodgy shoulder has flared up again. Annoying as it doesn't effect my climbing while I'm doing it, but is pretty painful the morning / day after. Really don't want to have another layoff / rehab period so need to assess my options.
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My theory is that being a more natural feeling grip I can try harder on heavy weighted deadhangs. It trains the pinky in a novel way and using the thumb on the side gives that a workout too. The gains I’ve got have transferred well when I’ve done benchmark weighted hangs on a regular edge / campus rung. If you fancy pop over and give it a try.
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That reminds me. I did go to the Lab on Saturday as well. The plan had been to go to Harewood House and see the penguins but the nipper saw a video of someone climbing on Instagram in the morning and declared that she'd rather go climbing. This time I remembered to take Cat who was rescued a number of times from dizzying heights in the kids' bit.
At lunchtime we sat on one of the benches facing the main wall and she tucked into her sandwich while I mooched on some problems - did or tried about 10 problems. When I fell off she shouted "BAM!" at me. A natural heckler. Very proud.
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Finally introduced myself properly to Andy_E as well. Left earlier than I'd usually do as I started feeling a bit queasy and light-headed.
Yeah, that usually happens to people I meet.
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Sounds like you're making excellent progress Cheque, glad it's going well on the physical and psychological side.
Cheers Tommy. To be honest sometimes I think "I'm climbing bloody VS and not even finding it easy" but most of the time I just enjoy myself and keep at it. Progress feels fun no matter what the context and I do believe that I can get back to where I was (with the caveat that I can't justify risky climbing any more :'() and actually progress from there- there are areas of trad climbing that I feel I'm better at than ever now.
What gives me the most satisfaction I think is that I now seem to be able to apply the kind of effective organisation, goal setting, planning etc. that I've always been good at in work, filmmaking and general life to climbing and training as well- areas which were previously kind of an unfocused clusterfuck in that sense!
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M nowt
T set off on a quest to find something harder than 7B that I might be able to do. Plan was to have 30 minutes each on Neil's Wall and Paint It Black to see what was involved. Warmed up thoroughly at home and headed to Beginners first, wanted to be strict and not trash myself so set a stopwatch to 30 minutes. Unfortunately it only took 6 1/2 minutes to realise that both Neil's Wall and Advanced Training were non starters, couldn't even pull on to Neil's let alone make the first move. Headed to Sean's where it took slightly longer to not do the first move on PiB, I could at least pull on and wave a hand in the direction of the next hold but was struggling to get anything out of the heel. Crossed over to Roadside and started working Top Shop again, sorted the Red or Dead finish and thought I was ready to start trying it in full then found there was a move on the traverse section I couldn't do, sure I'd managed it last week but spent pretty much the rest of the session on it and only did it once and in a method so strenuous that there's no way I'd manage another move subsequently.
Core
W - nowt
Th - Plans unravelled as morning tasks dragged on and the window started to get a bit tight, set off for the lime and ended up at Burbage Bridge, thought I was warm but couldn't even pull on Mermaid and was struggling on the arete. Took about 20 minutes to get that then back to Mermaid. Could now do the start but having latched the sloper wasn't able to engage the shoulder and pull on it. Headed down to outside to buy some Rhino skin, was seduced by the darkside and bought antihydral as well.
Core and some scap pullups
F - Hatched a plan with tt to go look at Black and Deckout buttress on the strength of the number of *** bangers promised by ukc. Went to Sean's to warm up on the stuff just left of PiB, hadn't really looked at these problems before and while not classics some of them are at least not total shit. Anyway, did the 6B+, couldn't do the 6C, got close to the 7A then went to meet Tom. We stared at B&D for a while before deciding we didn't fancy it that much and returned to Griffs where I flailed in an uninspired kind of way. Opted to return to Sean's, worked out better beta for the 7A then spent a while not doing it.
Core and one arm assisted Scap Pullups
S AnCap before a family do and too much to eat and drink.
S nowt, tricky choice between a cold turkey and a hairy dog....
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Finally introduced myself properly to Andy_E as well. Left earlier than I'd usually do as I started feeling a bit queasy and light-headed.
Yeah, that usually happens to people I meet.
Ha ha - correlation / causality Andy!
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M: Volleyball with colleagues. Good fun but hurt wrist diving for the ball...
T: Wrist was bad so went for x-ray, prognosis is tendonitis. Went up Mt Evans in evening for acclimatisation, did 2 miles of walking
S: Grays and Torreys Peak, two new 14ers. 9 miles and c.3500ft of ascent, good day out
Wrist still bad / feeling a bit worse. Hopefully will sort itself out over the next two weeks as I'm in Philly then off on holiday...
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Is this stuff you’ve done? Gym rope is impractical. I can use the campus board and Moonboard at the Foundry.
I've done the slow weighted / fast bodyweight pullups. I haven't done the rope climbing. But I sent you that workout because I thought you might be averse to moonboards, or simply prefer training at home.
I think the moonboard or a.n.other steep board is better. Perhaps a mix of one steep board sesh and one sesh of the above workout per week to reduce likelihood of injury from giving it 100% on steep boards.
Relatively speaking (obvsnotawad),apart from good looks and fantastic cunning power is my best asset and I specifically had to bump up my power and short PE a bit for the Oak. I'd expect to have to train hard on my biggest weakness to get over the line on a route at personal max limit. Oak's a power route. You're not a naturally powerful climber.
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Good power club this week.
Good post cheque - and good to see you Galpinos (matching 2nd to last hold on that yellow is haard..) :)
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Felt good in top rest and implemented new sequence on crux section. Absolutely pissed the move and set up for the big throw. Laid one on, hit the hold, held it for half a second before coming off. Gutted as if I hold it I think I go to the top.
I'm looking forward to buying you a fancy beer when you do it. No pressure :strongbench:
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M - Wall. Bit of progress on board problems, though a variety of minor finger tweaks / pain. Didn’t feel up for any campusing, so tried some of the new comp wall problems. Got sucked into a steep volume 7C which I could partially lank. Might be a good project as it should be up for a while.
T - Harrisons. Warmed up on a horrendous green slippery nightmare. Had a few goes on Lager Shandy (6b / 7a+) which felt quite hard, though was quite wiped out from previous day. Also a pain to shunt as overhanging and slightly wandering. Did nearby 6as a few times. Fingers not feeling great.
W - Shoulder rehab and iced fingers
T - Wall. Sluggish and generally performing badly. Went home and decided to resurrect day with some deadhanging. Not done any since end of July. Warmed up, skipped slopers and got on with some max hangs. Left hand was feeling tweaky so cut that short and pressed on with RH. Got to -14kg for 3sec and then did 5x 10sec at -16. Previous best was about 2 sec at -18kg. Usually it takes me a couple of sessions to get back to -20kg, so pretty pleased with this, especially as I’m currently 89kg. Getting down to 80kg is looking more and more like a good idea...
F - Yoga / stretching / shoulder exercises / iced fingers
S - Wall. Great board session. Ok campus session but didn’t feel super powerful. Fingers a bit uncomfortable so stuck to comp style o problems on big holds after that, on which I did better than expected. Tried some foot-on campus but skin was v sore by that point.
S - High intensity gardening and yoga
Great week. Shoulder pain has been much reduced since seeing physio / doing rehab exercises, though quite a lot of painless-but-weird clunking / grinding which I need to get sorted. Improvements in finger strength suggest that i should be doing more outside bouldering and with fewer excuses. Hopefully left hand tweaks will recover with slightly less volume this week. Seem to have a bit of synovitis in both hands, which the icing seemed to partially remedy. Keen to press on with route plans for the next month or two, and also fit in some Churnet bouldering with daughter who loudly announced to her squad that she doesn’t like comps and would rather climb outside.
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Cheers Pete. I don’t disagree with any of that.
You inspired me to do a power session today on my systems board based around your links starting with some big dynamic moves then the below routine four times (which I hope you approve of) finishing with some fast pull-ups.
https://youtu.be/9b-p8svprpE
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Decent that!
Shark's on his A game
Get your car filled up with petrol tomorrow in prep for an early start Wed...
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I don't really know about training, but that's not a power link is it? You've done loads of moves and they don't look individually hard for you?
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Power Club
Mon - fingers, pockets. Strong. Rings L-sits in between sets. Tiring. Weights and pull ups.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, system. 23 max hangs on pinches and edges. Rings L and I in betwwen. Weights.
Thu - bar work, weights.
Fri - rings, weights.
Sat - loaded carries 20'.
Sun - rest.
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Spidermonkey, sounds incredibly close! Try not to put too much pressure on each redpoint now, it’s just a matter of time before one pays off.
STG - Start ticking off boulder projects. (One down!)
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Structured training.
LTG - 7C
M - Pre nights. The last two of this batch! Napped on off through the day. Aimed to do something, but felt pretty out of it when I woke at around 1715 and didn’t quite manage to get out of bed before 1800. Still managed to do a few hanging tucks, leg raises and some brief front lever progression. Few sets of pull ups to near failure. All off flat jug. Reasonable recruitment hopefully.
T - Rest.
W - Post nights. Quite busy shift to start with. Got about three hours down time from 0430. Was in two minds about heading to Portland, but wasn’t sure when I’d get out again so decided to go for it. Warmed up on the 6A-6B problems on the Staunch, Bru boulder. Did the 6B mantle that had flummoxed me before. Thought might be a good sign, but then couldn’t pull on Ladies Night again! Eventually rediscovered the knack and could it consistently but the third hand move that I had never done still seemed a million miles away. Played around with some beta variations I’d previously discounted but all seemed even worse. After about 3 hours my right arm was beginning to fatigue and not quite recover between goes. I was just about to call it a day when suddenly the third move just went. Frustratingly the fourth move, that feels easy when fresh, spat me off as I couldn’t shift my body weight over the heel. Realising I could now do every move though gave me a bit of a boost in motivation and I decided to persevere a bit longer. Little bit of extra belief and suddenly the third move went again. This time I somehow managed to grunt and slap my way through the top sequence. I think this could be the finest margin between success and failure that actually worked out for me on a boulder. Pretty happy, I think it’s the hardest bloc style boulder I’ve done and in a slightly subpar state physically and mentally. Main difference has just been the effort I think.
T-S. In Moldova for a wedding. No training. Very good weekend though, next week I am really looking forward to getting back to working hard again.
Not a training week at all, and I’m still feeling pretty out of shape really, but somehow still managed to pull something out of the bag. I guess sometimes you just get a bit lucky!
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I don't really know about training, but that's not a power link is it? You've done loads of moves and they don't look individually hard for you?
It’s a series of strength moves into a power (throw) move which I repeat 5 times. This replicates the demands on the bottom section of the Oak leading to executing a power move when tired.
The moves to the throw feel medium hard for me - no doubt piss for a Moonboard devotee. The hand holds are good but the screw on footholds are crap.
The variation of the throw move Im doing is hard (for me) but isn’t quite as hard as on the Oak but if it was then I would be able to do it 5x slightly tired and over 4 sets.
It’s a bit of a last minute long shot but as Barrows said not got much to lose at this point (except maybe another kg ;D )
Assuming it doesn’t go down then I can take a more comprehensive approach to power training this winter
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Assuming it doesn’t go down
Why?
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Shark, I'm not training expert, feel free to ignore, apologies for the pile on etc, but what Will says
I don't really know about training, but that's not a power link is it? You've done loads of moves and they don't look individually hard for you?
is right IMHO. Power training, in my simpleton eyes, looks like campusing (in it's simplest form). Traversing 9 moves in to a campus board then doing 1-4 5 times on your right arm would not look like a power session to me, and that is basically what you are doing.
Maybe you are just super smooth but at no point did you seem to be trying that hard, the "throws" all look easy?
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Assuming it doesn’t go down
Why?
Because I'm not close enough.
Benchmarking myself against when I did best in late Summer and Autumn 2015 from the 5th session onwards I got to the point of consistently getting through the throw move twice in a session from the ground. This time round I've had 7 sessions since mid august and not got through it once.
Plan B now is to do back off and do some specific training, do other climbing, drop a couple more lbs then resume redpointing when temps drop in October. I'm then away in November.
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Pile ons!
If you want to recruit the fast twitch muscle fibres that Pete was alluding to your lack of (?), you need to do the equivalent of campus type one or two move problems.
For that move to the horn, it would be at most a move into matching on an undercut/s, then an appropriate big, powerful move off it. Repeated, but with a long (3 minute) rests in-between.
Take a look at hold #31 on the Furnace board and see what you can do with that, with your feet on features. Having watched the videos of the move, I think you have a near perfect set up on that board for working that weakness.
Then start adding moves in once you've moved up a level in basic explosive power.
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Shark, I'm not training expert, feel free to ignore, apologies for the pile on etc, but what Will says
I don't really know about training, but that's not a power link is it? You've done loads of moves and they don't look individually hard for you?
is right IMHO. Power training, in my simpleton eyes, looks like campusing (in it's simplest form). Traversing 9 moves in to a campus board then doing 1-4 5 times on your right arm would not look like a power session to me, and that is basically what you are doing.
Maybe you are just super smooth but at no point did you seem to be trying that hard, the "throws" all look easy?
Isnt that the thing with power moves - they look and feel easy when you do them - I can assure you that I did 5 repeats because a 6th wasnt on the cards.
It may not be pure single move power training but it is analogous to one of the power training exercises that Pete pointed me at:
Here you will couple weighted pull-ups with unweighted “power pull-ups”. First, you will do a 3 to 5 repetition set of weighted pull-ups, using a near maximum amount of weight added to your body (weight vest, or hanging free weights from a dips belt or harness). Upon completely this strength set you will remove the weights and do 5 to 8 bodyweight pull-ups as fast as possible–this is your speed exercise. Execute these two exercises back-to-back with no rest in between. Take a 5 minute rest before doing another coupled set.
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Take a look at hold #31 on the Furnace board and see what you can do with that, with your feet on features. Having watched the videos of the move, I think you have a near perfect set up on that board for working that weakness.
Then start adding moves in once you've moved up a level in basic explosive power.
:2thumbsup:
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M - nothing - bits of board built.
T - nothing - bits of board
W - run after work. Beautiful run up one bank of Don and down the other, past swans, and rusting relics of past industry. hit the intended 15 km as i reached the van door, without any actual planning. Wall session after. only a couple of hours, but succeeded on a couple of probs I've been trying for a while.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - run into town, 24km, met family and went to wall. Kyle did a few routes, seems to be really enjoying it, then bouldered for a bit. Scarpa Demo Day, so tried out Drago, Furia S, Furia Air, Instinct SR, quick shot on Instinct VS. Can't justify another pair right now, but like the Instinct VS, never tried them before, local shops are so shit.
S - walk with family, then what was supposed to be 10 ish km run turned into 15. Felt good running in cooler conditions for a change.
over 50 km in the week and feeling OK. Building up mileage, but doing 50km in a day still feels like a tall order.
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- and good to see you Galpinos (matching 2nd to last hold on that yellow is haard..) :)
I only had one go and was slightly surprised to find me at that hold so was hoping it was just shock and it would go ok when I tried it again.
I've joined Power Club for the gainz........ it'd better work!
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- and good to see you Galpinos (matching 2nd to last hold on that yellow is haard..) :)
I only had one go and was slightly surprised to find me at that hold so was hoping it was just shock and it would go ok when I tried it again.
I've joined Power Club for the gainz........ it'd better work!
Shark guarantees a price match money back BoGof deal with power club.
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Cheers Pete. I don’t disagree with any of that.
You inspired me to do a power session today on my systems board based around your links starting with some big dynamic moves then the below routine four times (which I hope you approve of) finishing with some fast pull-ups.
https://youtu.be/9b-p8svprpE
I wouldn't classify that as training power it's more like a 12 move hybrid. With the workout you're doing in the vid I'd think it could be short PE or long PE (aeropow/ancap) depending on the rest time.
If you want to train the thing you've been avoiding your whole climbing life ;) then it's really very simple - just do 2-3 moves at your 100% limit on a steep board. It doesn't really matter if you complete all moves, in fact if you do it isn't hard enough. The training effect is in the trying 100% hard. It's a really simple thing to work, just requires going all-out for 2-3 moves.
Long rest time between goes - say 3 - 4 minutes, and just do a couple of sets of maybe 4-5 goes on a different sequence each set (but make the moves relative to your undercut-to-throw sequence if poss).
The good thing about training pure power is you finish fresh not fatigued, and should still be able to climb well on the days between training. It's just like getting a little tune-up of your muscles.
What you're doing is probably going to tire you out a bit more than is ideal given you've a project to send.
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Cheers Pete. I don’t disagree with any of that.
You inspired me to do a power session today on my systems board based around your links starting with some big dynamic moves then the below routine four times (which I hope you approve of) finishing with some fast pull-ups.
https://youtu.be/9b-p8svprpE
I wouldn't classify that as training power it's more like a 12 move hybrid. With the workout you're doing in the vid I'd think it could be short PE or long PE (aeropow/ancap) depending on the rest time.
If you want to train the thing you've been avoiding your whole climbing life ;) then it's really very simple - just do 2-3 moves at your 100% limit on a steep board. It doesn't really matter if you complete all moves, in fact if you do it isn't hard enough. The training effect is in the trying 100% hard. It's a really simple thing to work, just requires going all-out for 2-3 moves.
Long rest time between goes - say 3 - 4 minutes, and just do a couple of sets of maybe 4-5 goes on a different sequence each set (but make the moves relative to your undercut-to-throw sequence if poss).
The good thing about training pure power is you finish fresh not fatigued, and should still be able to climb well on the days between training. It's just like getting a little tune-up of your muscles.
What you're doing is probably going to tire you out a bit more than is ideal given you've a project to send.
I agree with Pete's suggestion here.
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I agree with Pete's suggestion here.
Me too
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Not wanting to start a bandwagon but these guys know what they're talking about and they're right. Creating a replica of the Oak isn't going to cut it - you've been training consistently on The Oak itself and it's not given you the power you need. It sounds counter-intuitive but to do the Oak you need to be stronger than necessary to do the Oak! Get on a board with a fun scene of heckling and piss taking, try some brick hard moves that you can't do, and you'll piss it in the spring.
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Pete - thats really interesting.
So to train power (something I am interested in) its a case of a short number of hard move exerises/throws at which you try your hardest. Then stop.
A bit like weighted deadhangs - you don't go until you're trashed -- just do a few at your limit and stop?
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Ok - got it :whip:
In defence the link Pete originally recommended didn’t outline this - the exercises were all longer duration - doing speed work when tired etc
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To add something rather than just agreeing, IMO any replica move (especially of one you’re regularly not completing on the link) should be at least as hard, if not harder than the actual move. Having an easier replica move that you can do a few times in a row doesn’t seem like a good use of training time for me.
There’s a great Dave Mac blog about doing Practice when he got there and realised his board replica was actually harder then the problem.
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Pete - thats really interesting.
So to train power (something I am interested in) its a case of a short number of hard move exerises/throws at which you try your hardest. Then stop.
A bit like weighted deadhangs - you don't go until you're trashed -- just do a few at your limit and stop?
Exactly that. :yes:
I thought this was common knowledge?
Shark, I didn't outline this originally because I didn't think you're the type to ever want to try all-out hard on a steep board, so that routine I linked was a (sub-optimal imo) way to still train a bit of power without going all-out on a steep board. Short and max effort on a steep board is the best way to quick gains though, however dispiriting and hard it may seem.
scapegoat can't believe you're puntering people for sharing well-intentioned advice. Are you not getting enough attention? Need your balls tickling? Otherwise fuck off back to your own domain.
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Exactly that. :yes:
I thought this was common knowledge?
Great 👍👍 I tend to switch off when it comes to the training terminology and just go and climb/boulder/wall as hard as I feel like/can. Sometimes do a dead hang session...
So really interesting that I can get a good top up on power by (presumably) warning up for 10-15 then going full tilt at some steep probs I can’t (just) do then stopping.
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To add something rather than just agreeing, IMO any replica move (especially of one you’re regularly not completing on the link) should be at least as hard, if not harder than the actual move. Having an easier replica move that you can do a few times in a row doesn’t seem like a good use of training time for me.
There’s a great Dave Mac blog about doing Practice when he got there and realised his board replica was actually harder then the problem.
I half agree and half don't with this... I think there's merit to using replica(ish) moves even in easier training, e.g. if I wanted to be really strong at big power moves off LH undercuts, I'd include big power moves off LH undercuts in my ancap training, even if the moves had to be easier than on the project. (For one thing, having a few particular styles of moves you want to include makes it easier to invent circuits than starting from nothing, and why the hell not include it). However, I would think of this more as generically improving my ability at that style of move, with likely usefullness in the longer-term, and like you would want to be doing harder moves in my boulder sessions...
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Exactly that. :yes:
I thought this was common knowledge?
Great 👍👍 I tend to switch off when it comes to the training terminology and just go and climb/boulder/wall as hard as I feel like/can. Sometimes do a dead hang session...
So really interesting that I can get a good top up on power by (presumably) warning up for 10-15 then going full tilt at some steep probs I can’t (just) do then stopping.
My only training is doing that once a week, twice if I'm lucky, and seem to be still making gains.
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I half agree and half don't with this... I think there's merit to using replica(ish) moves even in easier training, e.g. if I wanted to be really strong at big power moves off LH undercuts, I'd include big power moves off LH undercuts in my ancap training, even if the moves had to be easier than on the project. (For one thing, having a few particular styles of moves you want to include makes it easier to invent circuits than starting from nothing, and why the hell not include it). However, I would think of this more as generically improving my ability at that style of move, with likely usefullness in the longer-term, and like you would want to be doing harder moves in my boulder sessions...
I agree with your half agreement, my post is aimed at Sharks’s specific case, I think he probably has several years of ancap including left hand undercuts behind him!
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Have you tried training altered states of consciousness? This was a serious suggestion. Sorry if my bantz with Pete was taken as offensive. I’m sure he’s cool tho ✌️💗
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And lo, in week 497 of power club
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.
.
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Shark starts to train power.
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Exactly that. :yes:
I thought this was common knowledge?
Great 👍👍 I tend to switch off when it comes to the training terminology and just go and climb/boulder/wall as hard as I feel like/can. Sometimes do a dead hang session...
So really interesting that I can get a good top up on power by (presumably) warning up for 10-15 then going full tilt at some steep probs I can’t (just) do then stopping.
My only training is doing that once a week, twice if I'm lucky, and seem to be still making gains.
Gains are good. Voyager season soon?
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Is Shark going to wait until Sunday before revealing the news?
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Is Shark going to until Sunday before revealing the news?
Tease 😃
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Is Shark going to until Sunday before revealing the news?
I was wondering the same thing.
Eagerly watching the forum for the news to break...
:popcorn:
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Is Shark going to until Sunday before revealing the news?
Tease 😃
I don't know what you lot are on about. But I'm just going to leave this here anyway...
https://twitter.com/PunterWatchUK/status/716025527056904192?s=19&fbclid=IwAR3YHGdINIQGSHi4d29P0gnQnqRG-OrpfqKqECe2Zw6lgEpy3hls1KyQdbw
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Just got home. Delighted to report that Tommy got the Oak third redpoint in less than perfect conditions. :bounce:
A real fight with a big foot slip on the traverse but reeled it in then his fingers numbed out due to sore skin on the last few moves.
I stuck to the plan and went on Mescalito but didn’t redpoint it.
Re power training I assume both approaches work. if doing deadlifts/clean etc one way to increase your maximum is do sets of reps below your maximum to progress and another approach is to do progressive lifts then attempt max lifts at or above your PB.
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Well done Tommy. 👍👍👏👏
Re power / that’s not the impression I got from Pete and others posts. Try and do a move or two that you can’t quite do. A powerful slap/lunge/crimp etc... that just evades you. But don’t do too many reps and quit fresh.
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Great work, Tommy!
Now. I really really really don't want to be a dickhead here. I mean that. BUT I'm kind of incredulous that you guys haven't got the memo about how to train power yet. Especially Shark, who has been told again and again that he has to go and boulder at and beyond his limit in order to complete the Oak for years now. Is it not absolutely fundamental that to train power you should be doing shorter sessions where you attempt moves that you can't complete until after a few sessions?
Frankly, Shark, that video you posted is not right and I'm a bit dismayed that you're still looking for ways to dodge the inevitable requirement for limit moves on a woody or a winter of proper straight up (non traversy) bouldering.
I'm so aghast and exasperated because I consider myself a complete trainingphobe and EVEN I know this!
Sorry sorry sorry. I don't mean any harm but come on!
And sorry to deviate from what should just have been a message to say well done to Sharklet.
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Well done Tommy!
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Isnt that the thing with power moves - they look and feel easy when you do them
No, you should still look like you're absolutely busting gut. I didn't understand what powerful (for me) moves were until I had a board at home and could try moves far beyond my strength limits, and lo and behold stronger and sometimes did some of them.
Watch just how hard Doylo and Danny (Danny on the 8B especially) are trying on some of the problems in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-PuZoyVTcE
In the meantime, big congratulations to Tommy!
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Isnt that the thing with power moves - they look and feel easy when you do them
No, you should still look like you're absolutely busting gut. I didn't understand what powerful (for me) moves were until I had a board at home and could try moves far beyond my strength limits, and lo and behold stronger and sometimes did some of them.
Watch just how hard Doylo and Danny (Danny on the 8B especially) are trying on some of the problems in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-PuZoyVTcE
In the meantime, big congratulations to Tommy!
Bollocks, so many missing words.
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Just got home. Delighted to report that Tommy got the Oak third redpoint in less than perfect conditions. :bounce:
A real fight with a big foot slip on the traverse but reeled it in then his fingers numbed out due to sore skin on the last few moves.
Can I just add that I think without your reeling off the beta and well directed encouragement he might well have dropped it near the top. Great to watch!
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Can I just add that I think without your reeling off the beta and well directed encouragement he might well have dropped it near the top. Great to watch!
;D
I thought at the point he started struggling that telling him each next move would be more helpful for him in extremis than shouting "Allez allez, go on, you can do it" etc
Overheard you saying you were going back Sunday. We plan to go too. Hoping to see you top Bat Route
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Hoping to see you top Bat Route
:whistle:
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Hoping to see you top Bat Route
:whistle:
The cat is out of the bag....
Successfully redpointed it in the twilight yesterday evening. Beyond psyched; will save the self-indulgent redpoint review for PC as it will improve my Monday!
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Hoping to see you top Bat Route
:whistle:
The cat is out of the bag....
Successfully redpointed it in the twilight yesterday evening. Beyond psyched; will save the self-indulgent redpoint review for PC as it will improve my Monday!
yes mega effort!
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Effort, nice on SM.
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Nice one 8c Jim. You're in for a hell of a heckling next depot session.
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The cat is out of the bag....
Successfully redpointed it in the twilight yesterday evening. Beyond psyched; will save the self-indulgent redpoint review for PC as it will improve my Monday!
:o
That’s amazing news! You were robbed on the previous redpoint attempt slipping off the foothold (James said it used to be a big foothold but Al’s son Ben broke it)
Wish we’d hung around a little longer now.
Look forward to the write up
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Timely:
https://www.climbing.com/skills/when-hate-became-love-how-the-moonboard-helped-me-send-a-long-term-project-and-became-a-lifelong-obsession/
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Timely:
https://www.climbing.com/skills/when-hate-became-love-how-the-moonboard-helped-me-send-a-long-term-project-and-became-a-lifelong-obsession/
Superb article. Very persuasive. Can identify with a lot of that.
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I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds :yes:
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I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds :yes:
I reckon the end of the era is nigh, anyway: Tommy ticking the Oak will unleash an unholy strength in Shark. Next week, the catwalk will sit, stunned, in silence; unable to believe the evidence of their senses. The sensitive will have to avert their eyes from the display of (literally) naked power as Shark bellows "my seed is STRONG!", pulls on, and crushes the Oak in almost contemptuous fashion.
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And lo, in week 497 of power club
.
.
.
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Shark starts to train power.
What's been going on longer, his siege or powerclub?
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And lo, in week 497 of power club
.
.
.
.
Shark starts to train power.
What's been going on longer, his siege or powerclub?
The third line of the first post in the very first powerclub
Goals: Austrian Oak, 10000 8a nu points
It won't be long till Powerclub itself is old enough to tick the oak... :)
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I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds :yes:
I reckon the end of the era is nigh, anyway: Tommy ticking the Oak will unleash an unholy strength in Shark. Next week, the catwalk will sit, stunned, in silence; unable to believe the evidence of their senses. The sensitive will have to avert their eyes from the display of (literally) naked power as Shark bellows "my seed is STRONG!", pulls on, and crushes the Oak in almost contemptuous fashion.
Next year... ;)
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I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds :yes:
Brilliant Biswanger reference!
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Let me get this right:
So everyone's saying that if Shark has an eyeballs out session on Doylo's board complete with 180 BPM banging techno at high volume, and puts it on utube then he'll tick the oak (or at the very least grab the horn)???
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Welcome anytime Sharky. Bring yer wet wipes.
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I can supply that sort of techno if required...
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Fiend you royal bellend don’t suggest playing music at the crag! You too Doylo you bell. Have punters the pair of you. And that’s swearing! Oooof 🤣
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Not sure Doylo’s board counts as the crag...
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Let me get this right:
So everyone's saying that if Shark has an eyeballs out session on Doylo's board complete with 180 BPM banging techno at high volume, and puts it on utube then he'll tick the oak (or at the very least grab the horn)???
Well not quite my finding and not quite 180bpm, but if this doesn't get Shark ripping the horn off the crag, I don't know what will: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfOP-Lie4bQ
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If Shark starts ripping holds off the Foundry Moonboard the guys down there very soon won't be happy...
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It will happen so slowly no-one will notice.