UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: honroid on October 25, 2014, 09:32:37 pm
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Amongst a load of other things I've been using the campus board to train aero cap for quite a while now, foot-on cycling three or four sets of e.g. 4 x 90 secs on 90 secs off.
I have been experimenting more recently with tabata and the campus board footless to train an cap. Has anyone else tried much of this? 30 secs on, 30 off or 60 secs on, 60 off etc? I haven't really read much about the campus board being used in this way, only about doing a set of a few moves (ladders/ max ladders/ touches etc.) followed by a 3 min or so rest in order to train power.
Talking about campus boarding (but not about an cap specifically), Eric Hörst reckons campus boarding should feature reps of 6-12 reps max which would go against this idea. I know the guy isn't an authority on the subject but does anyone have any input on the idea of doing this sort of tabata protocol on the campus board?
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Stu has used campusing for ancap a lot in the past IIRC. I've done it briefly (needs very uninjured fingers and elbows) and liked it, will use it again when fully uninjured. Very easy to adjust intensity by adding/removing moves or tweaking sequence slightly. As a slight aside, your aerocap doesn't sound much like aerocap and your your An cap doesn't sound much like ancap..?
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Talking about campus boarding (but not about an cap specifically), Eric Hörst reckons campus boarding should feature reps of 6-12 reps max which would go against this idea.
Seems like the usual "rules" about campus board training wouldn't apply, since they are regarding training power, not power endurance.
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What you're talking about may or not be an effective way of training, but it certainly isn't Tabata. Tabata's protocol is a very specific thing: 8 rounds of 20 seconds on, 10 seconds off. The exercise is supposed to be something you can go flat out at for the full eight sets - was originally done on an exercise bike. I can do bodyweight squats or kettlebell swings, for example, but not press-ups because I don't have the local endurance in my shoulders (ancap?) to do them continuously for 8 x 20 seconds.
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the campus board footless to train an cap. Has anyone else tried much of this?
Recently I've done some of what I would describe as Power Endurance type campusing. An cap I think. I have no idea what tabata is.
13579 up and down ladders to about 22 or so moves. About 30ish seconds on, then 2-2min30 rest x10 reps.
I got a lot better at doing the exercise and my power endurance Is pretty good at the moment.
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I have no experience with tabata stuff, but have done lots of stuff similar to cowboyhat. I'd start with around 15 reps and 2 mins rest, and build up gradually.
To be completely frank I had two years of solid improvement, and two years following with terrible finger problems. Prior to this I did most of my training on a campus or fingerboard. I'd only do one session of this a week at max.
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the campus board footless to train an cap. Has anyone else tried much of this?
Recently I've done some of what I would describe as Power Endurance type campusing. An cap I think. I have no idea what tabata is.
13579 up and down ladders to about 22 or so moves. About 30ish seconds on, then 2-2min30 rest x10 reps.
I got a lot better at doing the exercise and my power endurance Is pretty good at the moment.
That would not be Tabata.
The principle of Tabata would be.
a period of warm up exercise of relatively low intensity.
A short, intense workout consisting of (for instance) cycles of 20 seconds of intense exercise (in this case campusing) alternated with short rests (typically on a 2:1 exercise to rest ratio, so 10 sec in this example).
This would be a short session, say 20 minutes.
Followed by a cool down cycle.
I'd put that at a 30-40 minute session in this example.
Sound right Stu?
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I have no experience with tabata stuff, but have done lots of stuff similar to cowboyhat. I'd start with around 15 reps and 2 mins rest, and build up gradually.
To be completely frank I had two years of solid improvement, and two years following with terrible finger problems. Prior to this I did most of my training on a campus or fingerboard. I'd only do one session of this a week at max.
We tend to use our "Bachar" ladder for these sessions. Large cylindrical rungs (2.5"dia). It's set at the same angle as the campus board and the same spacing.
This saves some stress on the fingers. Still hard on shoulders and elbows though.
There was no real science behind that, just that when we (the coaches/sponsored climbers) talked about it, it seemed sensible to separate the two activities/sessions. Also, it allows the junior squad to join the exercise, as they are banned from the campus board.
A true Tabata regime would require the sessions to be repeated 5 days a week for a six week period.
If we told our guys to stop climbing for six weeks and just campus, we'd be lynched...
Also.
Tabata doesn't naturally transfer to campusing.
The original regime involved using resistance bikes in a gym and alternating between relatively precise intense periods, interspersed with slower "rest" periods. So active rest, not standing panting for 10 seconds. It is also relatively hard to campus for a precise time period, so easier to "foot on" up and down. 1-4, 1-4, 1-4 etc...
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I quite like doing sets of touches followed by upwards movement at mo. Say 1-4 rh 2-3 times then 1-4 lh same amount then straight into 1-4-6 rh leading. Few mins rest then other arm first.
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What you're talking about may or not be an effective way of training, but it certainly isn't Tabata. Tabata's protocol is a very specific thing: 8 rounds of 20 seconds on, 10 seconds off. The exercise is supposed to be something you can go flat out at for the full eight sets - was originally done on an exercise bike. I can do bodyweight squats or kettlebell swings, for example, but not press-ups because I don't have the local endurance in my shoulders (ancap?) to do them continuously for 8 x 20 seconds.
Just realised I repeated everything you said in three times as many words...
Missed your post the first time I read the thread, sorry.
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As a slight aside, your aerocap doesn't sound much like aerocap and your your An cap doesn't sound much like ancap..?
Funny, I'm made an effort to put together a few exercises for ancap and aerocap, anpow and aeropow in order to get a little more organised and periodised but I'm apparently still not quite there. Keep trying.... What would you say the 90 secs foot-on 4x4 is? Would 2 mins on count as aerocap?
As for my interval campusing (definitely not tabata) itself, I was really attempting to use the principal of interval training into ancap. Misguided I guess!
I have previously tried staying on for 20 or so moves and taking a 3 minute or so rest as a few of you have suggested here. Guess I'll keep on with that instead (can't train power in a tired muscle...?). Also, that would be ancap, right?
Out of interest, how many moves / how long can people stay on a campus board for on small rungs? Just curious.
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Thought I'd resurrect this thread as it's about Ancap on a campus board (I'm ignoring the Tabata in the title).
Tonight I tried to do an ancap workout on a campus board. Routine looked like this:
1 rep = 21 moves.
13579match,87654321match,234567match.
Large rungs.
4 reps. Then 10 mins rest.
Another 4 reps. Another 10mins rest. Then another 4 reps.
I was failing on the last four reps, properly powered out but not pumped.
Thing is it only takes me 20seconds to complete a rep. For rest time I took 4 x work time - 1min20secs
Because my climbing time was only 20 seconds for 21 moves, my question to the ancap nerds is what's more important for training ancap - the time spent climbing, or the number of hard(ish) moves completed?
Better to up the moves (obv need to make them easier to do this) so that a rep takes 30-45 seconds as per the guideline for Ancap?
Good thing about it is I can tweak the difficulty up by missing rungs on the second go up, instead of basic laddering.
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Because my climbing time was only 20 seconds for 21 moves, my question to the ancap nerds is what's more important for training ancap - the time spent climbing, or the number of hard(ish) moves completed?
Better to up the moves (obv need to make them easier to do this) so that a rep takes 30-45 seconds as per the guideline for Ancap?
Good thing about it is I can tweak the difficulty up by missing rungs on the second go up, instead of basic laddering.
My feeling is that its contact time that matters here. You climb fairly swiftly on rock IIRC, so this protocol would seem to suit you? A slower climber might take 30 - 40 sec, but this would surely tend to train a similarly longer contact time in the real world.
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The advantage of doing this kind of training on a campus board rather than boulder circuits is that I am less invested in completing a boulder or number of moves and can rely on the clock more.
A thing to remember is that on rock there are usually two foot moves for every hand move, this leads to the time discrepancy when campusing.
I tend to set a timer and not count reps. Also, take a big deep breath with every hand move. This not only slows you down considerably, but it ingraines a pattern of breathing into the workout which will do alot for you in staving off pump and preserving power.
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It might feel odd trying to campus 13579 slowly but I'll try it next time.
A friend mentioned the Patxi campus routine - 1,2,2,1,1,2,3,3,2,1,1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1, etc.
Anyone tried it?
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A friend mentioned the Patxi campus routine - 1,2,2,1,1,2,3,3,2,1,1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1, etc.
Anyone tried it?
No, but it seems odd that all the "ladder" movements are downwards. In general, matching campus moves leads to the motion being curtailed before its complete.
Which is a fancy way of saying, "you don't get strong by matching".
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A friend mentioned the Patxi campus routine - 1,2,2,1,1,2,3,3,2,1,1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1, etc.
Anyone tried it?
No, but it seems odd that all the "ladder" movements are downwards. In general, matching campus moves leads to the motion being curtailed before its complete.
Which is a fancy way of saying, "you don't get strong by matching".
:-\ If all the ladder movements were downwards, how would you be getting up in the first place?
It's basically laddering up and down, increasing the top rung by one each time. You're only matching at top and bottom. There's an instawank clip kicking around of Sean McColl doing it.
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:sorry:
Misread the protocol as "single movement to highest rung and ladder back down".
Further proof that I can't multitask.
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A friend mentioned the Patxi campus routine - 1,2,2,1,1,2,3,3,2,1,1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1, etc.
Anyone tried it?
not me, but here's a clip of someone doing it
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQJOtFPjcEL/?taken-by=alincoln79
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Nice. Again the workout's quicker than the guideline for ancap (30-45secs) - around 20 seconds to a level that'd be repeatable for a number of reps.
So is this workout length edging into anpow, or does the increased speed of campusing due to being foot-off skew the ancap time lower?
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Or someone actually completing the challenge...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BPax2p7h1ew/?taken-by=mccollsean&hl=en
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Only 9 rungs on that campus board though Ally! You had a go at this yourself?
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I claim bullshit, he's clearly using an invisible ladder if you look at his feet carefully.
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Interesting challenge. Will try it next Thursday.
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Interesting challenge. Will try it next Thursday.
I think you get an extra grade for doing it one armed
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Because my climbing time was only 20 seconds for 21 moves, my question to the ancap nerds is what's more important for training ancap - the time spent climbing, or the number of hard(ish) moves completed?
I'd think this:
I was failing on the last four reps, properly powered out but not pumped.
would suggest you're getting it about right?
When you say large rungs are you meaning jug rungs or large rungs? I can't imagine being able to move that fast and control things on the rungs I was using for this exercise.
I tweaked an elbow quite badly doing this kind of routine on a uncontrolled descent nearing the last rep.
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Guys you really crack me up!!!
It's good to be on UKB!!!
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When you say large rungs are you meaning jug rungs or large rungs? I can't imagine being able to move that fast and control things on the rungs I was using for this exercise.
I tweaked an elbow quite badly doing this kind of routine on a uncontrolled descent nearing the last rep.
The large metolius rungs - the same size ones as McColl is using in that film clip.
Yeah down-campussing is a bit sketch. Lattice boys needs to invent a rotating campus board.
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Tried the campusing yesterday, got to 6. It should be 50 moves, not bad.
I think I can quickly improve just by starting from rung 2: rung 1 is too close to the mats and I had to basically lock off at 90 degrees to come down, match and go up again.
My back feels good and worked this morning.
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On a side note, it took my non-mathematic mind ages to figure out the number of moves without counting them on my fingers. I finally got that each rung adds a number of moves that's double its number on the campusboard, so rung 2 adds four moves and so on. I am so fucking proud.