UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => music, art and culture => Topic started by: user deactivated on April 05, 2019, 07:32:19 am
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Have I just passed through a wormhole into another dimension? What’s next, TNF athletes dress as clowns and dance around an ancient burial ground while listening to Black Lace? (That actually sounds quite good)
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Have you tried injecting over-caffeinated sugary drink company?
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For those confused there is a UKC article here (https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/sawanobori_-_james_pearson_on_climbing_waterfalls_in_japan-11857) about Pearson and Ciavaldi’s trip to go waterfall climbing in Japan which is an established sub-sport. Saw Pearson give a presentation on this with clips at CC AGM.
Thought it was interesting what the ethics were. Anything with Yuji in it is worth watching anyway :bow:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yNS7EF7LGI direct link.
Another Pearson-Calthingy-athon, right down to the obligatory cutesy shots of them sleeping etc. BUT otoh a quick flick through the video, the climbing looks pretty entertaining - and vastly more appealing than Scottish winter climbing.
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How long before people are specifically training for it.. The Works could open a room in the Winter Gardens, or perhaps a lattice facility at the Botanical Gardens completed with shower system. :lol:
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Have you tried injecting over-caffeinated sugary drink company?
What for man?
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I thought it was great, particularly Yuri leading that steep moss at the 4 minute mark.
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I thought it was great, particularly Yuri leading that steep moss at the 4 minute mark.
It’s like trad climbing in Wicklow!
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Mad stuff. Brill.
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Seriously? I don't think I've ever seen a more blatantly stupid and damaging form of climbing?!
Perhaps they could have added dry-tooling into the mix... oh wait they already did (2min36secs)
Just popping out to the Bont Du gorge to rip out all the moss and plant life, hammer in some pegs, and trash the fuck out of the rock with my axes. WTF??!!
5mins 30secs Matty Hong getting all #zenasfuck about the nature:
''This is all about being in the elements, about being in nature and being part of nature, These are moving breathing places''.
Yeah... hmmm they must have edited out the bit where he says: ''and then tearing this revered nature a completely new asshole so that we can say we climbed that mother-fucking waterfall, yeah!''.
Honestly the most stupid and irresponsible thing I think I've ever seen promoted in climbing. I can get that there may be suitable places maybe in unvegetated European canyons (maybe, I'm clutching at straws here). But there are loads of fragile vegetated gorges and waterfalls in the UK and A LOT of idiots who'd love to go out on a weekend and do this, and it would totally trash them.
Feel like I'm going all daily mail on this!
TNF: Totally Napalmed that Fucker
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Top rantage there. The it’s like everything is breathing moment ‘wax on, wax off’
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So much potential for that shit in Scotland. Place was made for it.
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I.e. most of the 3 star classics.
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Seriously? I don't think I've ever seen a more blatantly stupid and damaging form of climbing?!
Perhaps they could have added dry-tooling into the mix... oh wait they already did (2min36secs)
Just popping out to the Bont Du gorge to rip out all the moss and plant life, hammer in some pegs, and trash the fuck out of the rock with my axes. WTF??!!
5mins 30secs Matty Hong getting all #zenasfuck about the nature:
''This is all about being in the elements, about being in nature and being part of nature, These are moving breathing places''.
Yeah... hmmm they must have edited out the bit where he says: ''and then tearing this revered nature a completely new asshole so that we can say we climbed that mother-fucking waterfall, yeah!''.
Honestly the most stupid and irresponsible thing I think I've ever seen promoted in climbing. I can get that there may be suitable places maybe in unvegetated European canyons (maybe, I'm clutching at straws here). But there are loads of fragile vegetated gorges and waterfalls in the UK and A LOT of idiots who'd love to go out on a weekend and do this, and it would totally trash them.
Feel like I'm going all daily mail on this!
TNF: Totally Napalmed that Fucker
Wow, right on Pete. Never heard of ghyll scrambling? Happens loads. The Chasm? Hell Gill? etc etc. Without wanting to comment on the ethics of axe useage, it seemed like they were climbing in a very human-unfriendly and moss-friendly environment. I'm fairly certain that the moss will grow back ferociously and quickly, and that the area affected is one microscopic percentage of the total biomass in the area. Provided that no sensitive species are being harmed it seems totally benign to me. To say it's "the most irresponsible thing promoted in climbing" is laughable. Do you know that every summer there is a constant stream of Instagram photos from people who've taken long haul flights to chase soft grades in Rocklands?
I thought you liked winter climbing? Never cleaned a crack out to get a gear placement? A fern might have wanted to call that home. Never sunk your axe into frozen turf and pulled a bit off? Never climbed on a crag which is only climable because of gardening efforts (virtually every crag in the British Isles then).
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Wow, right on Pete. Never heard of ghyll scrambling? Happens loads. The Chasm? Hell Gill? etc etc. Without wanting to comment on the ethics of axe useage, it seemed like they were climbing in a very human-unfriendly and moss-friendly environment. I'm fairly certain that the moss will grow back ferociously and quickly, and that the area affected is one microscopic percentage of the total biomass in the area. Provided that no sensitive species are being harmed it seems totally benign to me. To say it's "the most irresponsible thing promoted in climbing" is laughable. Do you know that every summer there is a constant stream of Instagram photos from people who've taken long haul flights to chase soft grades in Rocklands?
I thought you liked winter climbing? Never cleaned a crack out to get a gear placement? A fern might have wanted to call that home. Never sunk your axe into frozen turf and pulled a bit off? Never climbed on a crag which is only climable because of gardening efforts (virtually every crag in the British Isles then).
Hi Will, yes I have heard of ghyll scrambling. In a former career I used to take people 'canyoning' or gorge scrambling in various of N.Wales' gorges. I'm familiar with the topic.
The antics in this film go far beyond your typical ghyll scramble or 'canyoning' descent' - and there is still concern about the impact of these - see this BMC report: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/gorges-conservation-and-recreation
Ghyll scrambles and canyoning descent do not typically involve pitching out leads on vegetation-covered rock. They do not involve climbing with axes. They do not involve ripping off vegetation to find holds and runners. They do not involve hammering in pegs on the lead.
I invite you, please, to go grab a group of your mates and pootle along to some waterfalls and vegetated gorges in the Lakes and North Wales and video yourselves ripping the shit out of the place in the effort to lead climb up plant and moss-covered walls. I'd give it 3 days before it raised serious concerns among the environmental folk responsible for these areas.
it seemed like they were climbing in a very human-unfriendly and moss-friendly environment.
Yes. In fact I'd say 'a very sensitive species-friendly environment.'
Yes, as long as no fragile sensitive species have been damaged it is fine, but how do you know they haven't been - it isn't exactly an obvious science and these places are exactly the sorts of places you find sensitive fragile species. Until you don't.
Yes I'm a very keen winter climber and perhaps that's why I find this film so bonkers. I (and I hope all winter climbers) do all I can to only climb on vegetated crags when the turf is frozen iron-hard. One for my own preservation but it also preserves rare species. We avoid areas, vie various voluntary bans detailed in the white guides - containing a concentration of rare fragile species. We avoid digging away turf - why would you it's the thing that you climb! You could say I have a special interest in climbing on turfy environments and in seeing the turf remain!.
Regards mountain rock routes and flights to Rocklands - a case of whataboutery.
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Well this looks terrifying!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZueSwJia7PE
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That is mad. It's like all your climbing nightmares in one place. Climbing questionable slimy rock up through a waterfall with an unthinkable landing. Ace
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That 'splash crux' at 8 mins is so outrageous
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Wonderful stuff. Looks like the approach to some mid-wales crags.