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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Orrincoley on December 02, 2019, 12:30:49 pm

Title: The Joker bloc
Post by: Orrincoley on December 02, 2019, 12:30:49 pm
Can't tell exactly, nor do I know how recent this actually happened. But from Buster Martin's Instagram Story, the bloc used to start The Joker has been broken?
From his story he seems to think you can't even do it now, so you can only do The Ace...

https://instagram.com/stories/bustermartin?igshid=d3lmv3xxrx0b
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Ally Smith on December 02, 2019, 12:35:26 pm
Saw this too. Shocking vandalism if someone has taken a crowbar to it (as implied by Buster's insta story).

Gareth (guardian of peakbouldering.info) said the block was there a week ago, so we can narrow down the time window for the block's demise.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Orrincoley on December 02, 2019, 12:39:38 pm
Just spoke to him and he actually said it's been moved, so maybe it could be put back in theory?

In all honesty, as shocking as it is, I almost see it as a positive thing?
Most ascents of The Joker these days are stand on bloc, swing in, swing out to the top. It's barely even a climb anymore...
When The Ace is very logical to start at and is a full climb, without room for "cheating"...
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: r-man on December 02, 2019, 12:50:20 pm
I heard from Dawid it was like this when he was there on Friday. Joker now only possible from stacked pads. He thought it looked like it had slipped downhill. Freeze thaw action perhaps?

He also reckoned it was in a dodgy spot now for the landing. He suggests perhaps it should be moved properly out of the way. Would take a few people to do though.


Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Dexter on December 02, 2019, 02:13:32 pm
Wait... you can't all reach the joker holds from the floor??

Seriously though what amount of pad stacking then becomes acceptable for this?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cheque on December 02, 2019, 02:37:34 pm
He thought it looked like it had slipped downhill. Freeze thaw action perhaps?

Waterlogged ground would be a more likely explanation I think.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cofe on December 02, 2019, 02:46:58 pm
He thought it looked like it had slipped downhill. Freeze thaw action perhaps?

Waterlogged ground would be a more likely explanation I think.

Yeah, when I saw him the other day he reckoned loads of water and it had slipped and tipped over. Landing not great now.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Paul B on December 02, 2019, 03:03:56 pm
Many moons ago, during a night session, a group of now wads had this boulder on its teetering point, declaring the Ace was the superior problem and the Joker should be no more...

 :tumble:
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: AMorris on December 02, 2019, 04:40:34 pm
Just spoke to him and he actually said it's been moved, so maybe it could be put back in theory?

In all honesty, as shocking as it is, I almost see it as a positive thing?
Most ascents of The Joker these days are stand on bloc, swing in, swing out to the top. It's barely even a climb anymore...
When The Ace is very logical to start at and is a full climb, without room for "cheating"...

Hmmmm, sounds like a somewhat privileged position only someone strong enough to do the Ace could take ;)
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 02, 2019, 04:47:36 pm
Many moons ago, during a night session, a group of now wads had this boulder on its teetering point, declaring the Ace was the superior problem and the Joker should be no more...

 :tumble:
Should be easy enough to see if it has slid as you'd expect if due to wet ground, or been flipped as would most likely be the case if moved by hand.
Is it upside down or not?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: haydn jones on December 02, 2019, 04:49:59 pm
2 classics destroyed in 1 weekend. I've been getting reports that the pinch after the crimp you jump to on voyager has crumbled away.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 02, 2019, 04:54:00 pm
Many moons ago, during a night session, a group of now wads had this boulder on its teetering point, declaring the Ace was the superior problem and the Joker should be no more...

 :tumble:
Should be easy enough to see if it has slid as you'd expect if due to wet ground, or been flipped as would most likely be the case if moved by hand.
Is it upside down or not?
Looks flipped/rolled from Insta pic, it's upside down.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Orrincoley on December 02, 2019, 06:08:21 pm
Just spoke to him and he actually said it's been moved, so maybe it could be put back in theory?

In all honesty, as shocking as it is, I almost see it as a positive thing?
Most ascents of The Joker these days are stand on bloc, swing in, swing out to the top. It's barely even a climb anymore...
When The Ace is very logical to start at and is a full climb, without room for "cheating"...

Hmmmm, sounds like a somewhat privileged position only someone strong enough to do the Ace could take ;)

There is a certain irony to my opinion, yes. I'd like to think it's somewhat logical at least though.... Right?  :-\

From talking to Buster he seemed convinced it had been flipped using a crowbar or something.

Shame about Voyager if that's true though...
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 02, 2019, 06:39:55 pm
Been up today. There's absolutely no way this moved naturally. The good news it looks like it won't be too hard to put back. Then Dense won't have to break anyone's legs.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: 36chambers on December 02, 2019, 07:14:00 pm
Been up today. There's absolutely no way this moved naturally. The good news it looks like it won't be too hard to put back. Then Dense won't have to break anyone's legs.

If someone puts it back, can you make it an inch or so higher/closer? Asking for a friend...
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Footwork on December 02, 2019, 08:16:31 pm
Deffo put this back if possible - classic Jerry problem.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Moo on December 02, 2019, 08:20:41 pm
Right can everybody just put down their alibi in writing now please.

Where were you every hour of every day for the last week ?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Doylo on December 02, 2019, 08:22:35 pm
Been up today. There's absolutely no way this moved naturally. The good news it looks like it won't be too hard to put back. Then Dense won't have to break anyone's legs.

8a is beneath him anyway. He’ll just make shapes on the Ace.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: tim palmer on December 02, 2019, 08:33:42 pm
It is remarkable moving the boulder has made the landing worse, has a big hole in the ground been created?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: 36chambers on December 02, 2019, 08:34:28 pm
Deffo put this back if possible - classic Jerry problem.

Thinking about it, I'm actually quite happy it's gone. Just leave it as it is.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Footwork on December 02, 2019, 08:40:59 pm
Deffo put this back if possible - classic Jerry problem.

Thinking about it, I'm actually quite happy it's gone. Just leave it as it is.

Don't worry, I can still reach the holds standing on the block where it is now  :jab:
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Will Hunt on December 02, 2019, 08:49:32 pm
Why is Ben bothered? He'd just stack the pads anyway?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: teestub on December 02, 2019, 09:26:34 pm
Why is Ben bothered? He'd just stack the pads anyway?

Stacking pads seems like a better option anyway, removes the arbitrary height restriction of the old start!  ;D
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Footwork on December 02, 2019, 09:28:22 pm
Why is Ben bothered? He'd just stack the pads anyway?

Stacking pads seems like a better option anyway, removes the arbitrary height restriction of the old start!  ;D

Harder to get a good jump start too  :whistle:
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: highrepute on December 02, 2019, 09:39:50 pm
2 classics destroyed in 1 weekend. I've been getting reports that the pinch after the crimp you jump to on voyager has crumbled away.

I'll be gutted if this is true  :wavecry:
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Fiend on December 02, 2019, 10:03:46 pm
Some of the grit has been pretty crumbly after all the rain and then an abrupt dry period.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: tomtom on December 02, 2019, 10:51:10 pm
Some of the grit has been pretty crumbly after all the rain and then an abrupt dry period.

It was you wasn’t it!! That parking ticket is all part of a cunning alibi!
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: crzylgs on December 03, 2019, 12:53:00 pm
Mini hijack of this thread - is it common knowledge that 'The Ultimate Gritsone Experince' bloc wobbles as people climb it? With the wobble increasing as a heavier climber gets near the top. It's a big lump of rock and the wobble is only slight, but with all the recent rain (soaking wet ground), plus the undercutting type of erosion that boulders tend to suffer I only imagine this'll get worse over time?

If this has always happened then I'm sure it's no issue at all.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 03, 2019, 01:12:09 pm
I vaguely remember this being mentioned years ago. Haven't been there in ages. Hard to say if it's dangerous without having a good look. In theory big rocks can wobble and still be at no risk of toppling, there are some huge rocking stones in various places. Deffo would shit you up if it moved while you were on it though!
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cheque on December 03, 2019, 03:55:51 pm
is it common knowledge that 'The Ultimate Gritsone Experince' bloc wobbles as people climb it?

I assumed that the name came from the boulder looking like it would fall on you if you tried to climb it but I've never known it to rock.  :ohmy:
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2019, 04:32:48 pm
there are some huge rocking stones in various places.

Great one at Brimham, good for scaring those not in the know.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Andy B on December 03, 2019, 04:34:35 pm
The UGE block being dodgy was first reported in 2008. There’s a thread on here about it.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: crzylgs on December 03, 2019, 05:38:03 pm
The UGE block being dodgy was first reported in 2008. There’s a thread on here about it.

Ahh ok, case closed then. Am sure its fine  :thumbsup:

I should emphasise, it was a very small amount of a wobble that you really had to be looking for. I wouldn't have noticed it until a couple of others pointed it out.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: El Mocho on December 07, 2019, 10:20:50 am
2 classics destroyed in 1 weekend. I've been getting reports that the pinch after the crimp you jump to on voyager has crumbled away.

(https://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20191206_105056_zpsetmcnfkp.jpg)

Link here where you can see it better:
https://s145.photobucket.com/user/benbransby/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20191206_105056_zpsetmcnfkp.jpg.html

Also the next hold out right:

(https://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r201/benbransby/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20191206_105113_zpsoapwrncx.jpg)

and the link to it:

https://s145.photobucket.com/user/benbransby/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20191206_105113_zpsoapwrncx.jpg.html

Went and abbed down it yesterday, it was soaking so all the holds felt shit and I can't really remember how bad this hold was before but I would say it's still climbable, maybe a bit harder? The 'crimp' that you jump to wasn't looking in the best shape and the hold after (out right on the steep face, see second photo) was also looking very friable - pretty sure this has been a little crumbly for a few years now. I'm no expert on super glueing stuff but there could def be an argument that if these could be glued in a way to prevent further damage that could be a good thing? Some high viscous super glue with the little brush to 'paint' on? I guess Jonboy or someone would know how effective this would be and if it would change the feel of the holds...
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 07, 2019, 12:31:30 pm
Seems to have worked on stuff in the county.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: highrepute on December 07, 2019, 07:48:57 pm
Thanks for taking the time to go down it Ben.

The hold out right has looked quite bad since I went on it last year, but always seemed solid when dry.

I guess a bit of glue will change the feel of the holds a bit but not as much as when they eventually break. I'd like to hear what bonjoy thinks.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 07, 2019, 09:24:30 pm
I agree, glue will result in very minor friction loss if done carefully. Definitely the lesser evil if the hold is going to degrade without it.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 07, 2019, 09:26:55 pm
Might get a chance to check it out tomorrow if there's a dry window in the weather
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: shark on December 07, 2019, 09:28:29 pm
Hold repair thread (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=28962.0)for reference
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: El Mocho on December 10, 2019, 12:44:10 pm
I had a facebook message from Dawid the other day re the Joker block. He had been up there and said something along the lines of:

Where the block is now it is dangerous - it's in a place you land if you pop off the holds. Some people were trying the Joker/Ace and had moved a bunch of the rocks from further down the landing zone (the slightly patioed area?) and put these against the block and then pads on top...

He was keen for the block to get moved, I think ideally back into original place or if not further down the hill.

If it is effecting the landing zone then I would agree it would be good to move it (when I looked at it I didn't feel so concerned about landing where it is now but I'll admit Dawid has more experience of this than me)

To move back to original place: Hard work. Looks like it would not only need to be flipped back the right way up but also moved back up the slope to hopefully find the original position. There are places further up at the base of the big block where you could place gear/a sling and it could be possible to attach a winch/rope and at least stop the block falling back down the hill when lifting it (depending on how you could attach rope to the block). It would take a bunch of people, some crow bars etc and still might not work. Would also need someone who knew where it was originally.

Moving block down the hill: less hard work but would still require a fair few people I guess, especially if you want to move with a bit of precision rather than just udging it down a bit.

Leave block where it is: Not hard work

Having done the Joker and finding the Ace to hard I'm not overly invested in either solution. Block back where it was restores the Joker as a problem and means there is a slight chance I can do the Ace/makes an ascent of the Ace the same as before (ish, see next point). Moving block away means the holds on the Joker (see Orins post further up) should survive a bit longer - think it is fair to say these have got better than they originally where and at some point could get more damaged. The Ace is slightly more aesthetic than it used to be (although at the loss of the Joker which isn't a good swap in my mind)

I think it would be good to get some consensus on which option is best and regardless on which is decided it will need a bunch of people to get together and try to do it (unless everyone says just leave as is)

My vote would be to attempt to move the block back into position if it can be done without causing more damage or breaking anyone's fingers whilst doing it but being prepared to reconsider if it was proving too hard/damaging other rock etc and then moving it out of the landing zone instead.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 10, 2019, 01:10:29 pm
Dawid messaged me about this and I said I'd suggest a day soon when I could help move the block. It's looking like shit weather on my day off Thursday so I'll probably suggest then. Whether that means shifting it up or downhill will depend on practicalities and the preferences of people who have an opinion one way or the other. I don't have a strong preference either way and the outcome will make no difference to me in climbing terms. But if forced to choose I'd probably move the block further downhill and tidy the landing up, on the basis that I'll see fewer videos of tall lads swing for the top off the block and taking 8a.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: northern yob on December 10, 2019, 01:10:44 pm
It’s the natural evolution, get it out of the way, it’s never gonna be exactly where it was. 

The Ace an infinitely better problem will last longer.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cowboyhat on December 10, 2019, 01:48:16 pm
Something probably does need to change, the landing is worse now. Having said that the entry price for attempting the top and thus taking the fall has gone up about nine grades.

I'm sort of coming round to the idea that out of the way might be better; preservation of holds etc, and i'll be amazed if it can be put back into a position whereby it doesn't feel dangerous to stand on it and attempt the joker.


Also I looked again yesterday and block seems scared. I am in no doubt that it was tipped deliberately.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Will Hunt on December 10, 2019, 02:12:38 pm
My completely irrelevant armchair opinion: The Joker looks like a shit contrivance that happened to come first; The Ace looks like an amazing climb. If this has improved the Ace and The Joker can still be attempted off stacked pads then that sounds like a good thing.

And I think Jerry trundled it because he was sick of seeing people swing around off those eroded jugs thinking they're as good as he was.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: SA Chris on December 10, 2019, 02:35:17 pm

Also I looked again yesterday and block seems scared. I am in no doubt that it was tipped deliberately.

If someone tipped me deliberately I'd be scared too. Scared shitless.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: tommytwotone on December 10, 2019, 02:49:49 pm
And I think Jerry trundled it because he was sick of seeing people swing around off those eroded jugs thinking they're as good as he was.

I think Dave did it so he could ensure bragging rights over Megos until he's done The Ace.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cofe on December 10, 2019, 04:07:50 pm
Move it back. The Joker is a historic problem and allowing it to be erased by some dongs moving the block sends the wrong message about what's OK at the crags. I might be able to nip out for a bit on Thurs.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2019, 04:22:21 pm
What Cofe said. I'm pretty appalled that people seem to think that erasing a hard classic problem in the heart of one of British climbing's cathedrals is okay. It's really not. It's a fucking outrage.  I don't see the landing has been improved or worsened and I don't remember anyone complaining about it previously. The only possible argument is that it means folk trying the Ace don't have lesser climbers in their way; pure elitism.

I can be available whenever to help put it back. Can provide winches, slings, tripod etc.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: 36chambers on December 10, 2019, 04:34:09 pm
genuine question, is there actually any difference between pulling on to the joker off a pad stack and pulling on from the block?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cowboyhat on December 10, 2019, 04:42:06 pm
Possibly the amount of lateral pressure you could exert, but not really as you had to sort of lower on to the holds anyway.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Paul B on December 10, 2019, 05:11:03 pm
Move it back. The Joker is a historic problem and allowing it to be erased by some dongs moving the block sends the wrong message about what's OK at the crags. I might be able to nip out for a bit on Thurs.

This, apart from Thurs. I'm working.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Doylo on December 10, 2019, 05:15:48 pm
Shame Dyer’s emigrated, he’d sort it out in a jiffy.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cowboyhat on December 10, 2019, 05:30:31 pm
What about the Klemmow/Sharples team? Or would they get lost and end up at Stoney?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2019, 06:49:24 pm
genuine question, is there actually any difference between pulling on to the joker off a pad stack and pulling on from the block?

Seriously? The block was a natural feature. It was an awkward move. A pad stack is completely fucking arbitrary in location and height.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: northern yob on December 10, 2019, 07:23:54 pm
genuine question, is there actually any difference between pulling on to the joker off a pad stack and pulling on from the block?

Seriously? The block was a natural feature. It was an awkward move. A pad stack is completely fucking arbitrary in location and height.
[/quo

Will it be straightforward to get it in virtually the same position Adam.If it doesn’t go back to within cm’s the history is fucked anyway it’s a different problem.

In the same way the holds are changing, it’s not the same bloc Jerry did. Surely it’s better to just move on. We can’t start freezing problems in time. Trying to restore things to a snapshot in time seems like a waste of time and energy.

At least that’s my view from an armchair in Lancashire....
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Mr E S Capegoat on December 10, 2019, 07:40:14 pm
Stick some TNT under it and be done. Or reshape the renegade foot block into a miniature Easter island head with a 5.10 logo on it, then cement it back in place with perma cctv recording and validating all lank swing free ascents. Have a party at the works to celebrate
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: northern yob on December 10, 2019, 07:43:11 pm
Will it be straightforward to get it in virtually the same position Adam.If it doesn’t go back to within cm’s the history is fucked anyway it’s a different problem.

In the same way the holds are changing, it’s not the same bloc Jerry did. Surely it’s better to just move on. We can’t start freezing problems in time.  Trying to restore things to a snapshot in time seems like a waste of time and energy.

At least that’s my view from an armchair in Lancashire....
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2019, 08:21:38 pm
As Cofe said, what sort of precedent is that?

I've fondled the holds every year since Jerry did it and the difference is a few grains on the left hold making it slightly more positive for one or two fingers. However I have got stronger over the same period.

Still waiting for someone to explain what has been gained here? Just seems like fetishisation of big numbers to me.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: northern yob on December 10, 2019, 08:34:16 pm
Exactly what sort of precedent is trying and failing to restore it to how it was. My point is  it’s changed and can’t be restored, seems to me trying to put it back is setting the precedent! It’s got nothing to do with grades or elitism. It’s about looking forward not backwards. Either way it’s no skin off my nose but I do think it’s quite an interesting debate. I’m normally in agreement with you, but not on this one. Any problem or route which breaks should be left, it’s a natural evolution. We shouldn’t be fucking with things( I know it sounds as though some knobs moved it n the first place but that’s done now)
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cowboyhat on December 10, 2019, 08:45:42 pm
This is a metaphor for the election, some over the line performance art.

I'm blaming Redhead.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2019, 08:50:27 pm
Really struggling to follow your logic. You do realise the finishing hold fell off and was glued back on? I would have been happy to leave that off personally. But it was replaced.

Now some dicks move the landing and you call it natural evolution! Fuck off! What makes you think the boulder can't be replaced? I have been and looked, it should go back with little more difficulty than it was moved.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bradders on December 10, 2019, 09:03:21 pm
Doesn't feel like there's any right answer here, although it's an interesting conundrum ultimately it's going to be up to whomever is bothered enough to go and try to fix it.

For my part, with the disclaimer that I will probably never be good enough for The Joker, let alone The Ace and therefore firmly from my armchair, I'd side with leaving it / make the landing as safe as possible. For one, things change and it feels better to just roll with it rather than trying to keep it the same. For two, if people want to do the Joker they clearly still can; it still exists. And for three, the Joker was a contrived bit of weirdness anyway; the logical line is The Ace and pulling on halfway always had the look of exactly that, like climbing West Side Story and traversing off at the break.

The historical aspect is another interesting dimension, but here's a thought. If the boulder had never been there, I'm willing to bet that Jerry (and likely almost all subsequent repeaters) would have tried the move that became The Joker off stacked pads / a ladder or whatever as part of trying to do The Ace. When it really comes down to it, what's the difference?

The finishing hold being glued back on is a bit different. Would it have been impossible without it? Or much, much harder so as to make it impossible for all but the world class? Assuming so, I'm very happy it was repaired.

Totally agree that little has been gained, if anything, so it comes down to whether anyone is bothered enough to put the work in to restore it.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2019, 09:23:09 pm
Quote
For two, if people want to do the Joker they clearly still can; it still exists. And for three, the Joker was a contrived bit of weirdness anyway; the logical line is The Ace and pulling on halfway always had the look of exactly that, like climbing West Side Story and traversing off at the break.

Utter bollocks. Sorry. No, you can't do the Joker any more. Doing it off a pad stack would be pointless and arbitrary yes; starting off the highest bit of natural ground was neither. It was also a great move.

Quote
Would it have been impossible without it? Or much, much harder so as to make it impossible for all but the world class?

This is exactly the same argument as removing the starting block, only leaving a 8b vs 8b+. Hence why it should have stayed.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bradders on December 10, 2019, 09:31:51 pm
Just an opinion JB  ;)

The other thing is I find it really hard to believe that anyone doing The Joker didn't have half an eye on The Ace. If I do it one day, there's no way I'd think to myself "right, jobs a good 'un, done with that". I'd think "well I'm halfway there". In that respect, I cannot see any difference in doing it off pads.

But like I say, it really doesn't matter what anyone else thinks; if you care enough to try and restore it then go and do it  :)
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2019, 09:45:13 pm
I've never had an eye on the Ace, it is a lot harder overall and I haven't got the strength or height. But also it has always been just a low extension to me; the crux is still the same move. That has also been reinforced by watching the strong and light like Megos path through the start of the Ace every go but be utterly unable to do the move at the top. Which also begs the question whether anyone has done the Ace without first doing the Joker off the block. I doubt it.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: northern yob on December 10, 2019, 09:45:59 pm
Of course I know it was glued back on. I thought it should have been left off then.

It just doesn’t seem right glueing holds back on. I know it’s very different, but it just doesn’t sit right with me.

By natural evolution I meant problems changing in general not this particular bloc. It’s more the general principle of it all. I don’t care either way really. Good on anyone who moves it back. It will probably be good fun. Its a very interesting debate, in which there isn’t really a right or wrong.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2019, 10:07:37 pm
Agree with the hold falling off. I'd rather it get harder than be held together with glue.

The general principle here I have a big fucking issue with is that some twats think they can delete a classic boulder problem by vandalising a perfectly natural feature. As I said, the only argument for I can even imagine is pure elitism. Putting it back seems massively preferable to letting them set that precedent.

Ps Plus Dense won't have to 'break their fucking legs'. As a compromise option I'd say I'd accept for the starting block to go if the glued finshing hold is removed and the perps have their legs broken. But I think it going back is better for everyone.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 10, 2019, 10:46:38 pm
Well I'll be going for a look on Thurs and will be happy to go with whatever the team who turns up decides is best (which currently sounds like moving back into place if at all possible).
If a few people turn up it shouldn't be hard to move w/wo mechanical assistance.
Some photos showing the block position and/or people with a good knowledge/memory of it would be useful.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Will Hunt on December 10, 2019, 10:49:41 pm
The most compelling argument for putting it back is that acts of vandalism should not go uncorrected or they become legitimised and more likely in future.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: tomtom on December 10, 2019, 10:53:15 pm
It is certainly possible to map the position and location (in 3d) of where the boulder should be using SFM (structure from motion) with a handful of photos (from different angles). I expect there are probably several hundred pictures out there of that bloc/immediate area - so finding some suitable would not be a problem. I can't work the software to work out where it was (I'm not that clever) but I know people who can. It would take a bit of time of course...

Or move it back to roughly where it was.. after all didnt some people step off a mat on the block before anyway (the same as not having the bloc in the exact same spot in effect)...? (If I'm wrong on this sorry)
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Moo on December 10, 2019, 10:55:42 pm
I think that's the real nub of the issue here. If the starting block had snapped in half somehow and was now lying dangerously under the boulder while making the joker no longer possible, I think it would be safe to say everyone would be happy with moving it.

It's the precedent it sets for altering established problems.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Duma on December 11, 2019, 01:26:43 am
How do all the folk wanting to move it back feel about Thick End of the Wedge at Burbage?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: haydn jones on December 11, 2019, 05:28:50 am
How do all the folk wanting to move it back feel about Thick End of the Wedge at Burbage?

That's not quite the same since moving the block back would destroy a 3 star climb in that situation.

Moving the block back here creates a 3 star historical test piece, and without interfering with any other problems.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: northern yob on December 11, 2019, 06:39:08 am
Ahhh right you are, now I can see where your coming from with the elitism..... I hadn’t quite grasped that. Break their legs I say. Do you actually know who it was??
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Sasquatch on December 11, 2019, 06:46:09 am
Is it confirmed that it was intentionally moved?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bradders on December 11, 2019, 07:29:02 am
The most compelling argument for putting it back is that acts of vandalism should not go uncorrected or they become legitimised and more likely in future.

Agree with that completely.

How do all the folk wanting to move it back feel about Thick End of the Wedge at Burbage?

I'm not familiar, what's the situation with this one out of interest?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 11, 2019, 07:35:47 am
Is it confirmed that it was intentionally moved?

Yes. The weather suggestion is absolutely ridiculous.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: teestub on December 11, 2019, 08:58:35 am
You going to pin it with a few epoxied rods to make sure no one gets the same idea again?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 11, 2019, 09:12:41 am
How do all the folk wanting to move it back feel about Thick End of the Wedge at Burbage?

I'm not familiar, what's the situation with this one out of interest?
I moved a block from underneath an existing E4/7a at Burbage S so a low start could be climbed.

So it’s analogous in that a block was moved, and an easier climb based on a higher pull on position was rendered defunct/arbitrary.

There is a thread elsewhere arguing the rights and wrongs of it. The obvious dissimilarities to the Joker/Ace are that it facilitated a high quality new climb and that it increased the utility of the line (i.e. it vastly increased the number of people climbing/trying it and improved the landing) rather than reducing it.
In my highly biased opinion the removal of peak grit’s most popular 8a would not be fixed by the removal of it’s second most popular.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: SamT on December 11, 2019, 10:09:17 am
You going to pin it with a few epoxied rods to make sure no one gets the same idea again?

I thought exactly the same.  I might be on for coming out tomorrow if more hands are needed.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: northern yob on December 11, 2019, 10:19:44 am
Agreed the weather scenario is insane, I was kinda thinking it’s local youths,possibly with no agenda, or some misguided idiot who thinks they were doing a service to the landing. It hadn’t crossed my mind someone had done it from a deliberate elitist point of view..... which is a very different thing definitely deserving of broken legs.....
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: SamT on December 11, 2019, 11:33:53 am
[2p]
Re the ethics of this.  It makes my piss boil when shit like this happens, stuff gets trundled/chipped/graffiti'd/bust.
A bunch of cockends, presumably (and hopefully in some respects) totally ignorant to the significance/history behind something like this, and think its perfectly acceptable to drag/damage/scar shit out of the way, without seemingly consulting anyone about it. It always looks a mess, takes nigh on decades to weather, and even then, it never  looks natural, you can always tell that mother nature didn't arrange the rock like that.

I'm never, ever going to be strong enough for the joker, but I dont care and that's not the point.

As a kid in the 80's, my first ever climbing trip was to the plantation and we bouldered on the pebble, even then, as a crappy Vdiff leader, I could see that bit of rock and think that's an obvious problem.  I was a regular at the plantation for my early years and it was clear that one day, it would go. Eventually, Jerry solved it, and then extended it.

Putting the boulder back in place, sends out a firm message that rocking up and fucking about with stuff, without any consensus wont be tolerated. Just in the same way that chipped holds, where possible, should be sympathetically filled in.

I think pinning it is not actually a bad idea, just in case said bell end comes back again and moves it again, causing more damage scarring etc.
[/2p]

Funny how nobody is ever about though when it happens giving me the sense that who ever did this knew it was a bit 'naughty'


Re moving it back.. seating it back into the 'socket' from which it came might be a bit tricky, since that 'socket' might well have changed shape now, i.e. had loads of earth washed in/out from yesterdays biblical rain storm.


Oh and another thing, just looked and there is nothing on the other channel about this at all.  I'd have thought it would warrant at least a news snippet, even if its just to get the message out to the masses that this kind of thing happens, and is generally frowned upon.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 11, 2019, 12:27:08 pm
Quote
I was kinda thinking it’s local youths,possibly with no agenda, or some misguided idiot who thinks they were doing a service to the landing. It hadn’t crossed my mind someone had done it from a deliberate elitist point of view.....

Local youths aren't really a problem at Stanage, it's not Shipley Glen.

Various elite boulderers have talked about moving this boulder for years - I've heard that Ben Moon and Tyler actually had a go at moving it once. I think it's a good illustration why such things should be discussed, whatever their motivations were I'm not sure they would have borne scrutiny.

Quote
Re moving it back.. seating it back into the 'socket' from which it came might be a bit tricky, since that 'socket' might well have changed shape now, i.e. had loads of earth washed in/out from yesterdays biblical rain storm

I don't think that will be a problem, the boulder is very big and hasn't moved far - it still mostly covers its old footprint. The main thing is it has rotated so the old high point is now pointing downhill.

I'm not in favour of pinning it for the same reason I'm against moving it - I want my climbing environments as natural as possible.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: gme on December 11, 2019, 12:58:50 pm
If its put back shall we also not build an artificial tree for the one that went missing under bodymachine.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Paul B on December 11, 2019, 03:09:51 pm
Various elite boulderers have talked about moving this boulder for years - I've heard that Ben Moon and Tyler actually had a go at moving it once. I think it's a good illustration why such things should be discussed, whatever their motivations were I'm not sure they would have borne scrutiny.

As stated previously in this thread, I was at Stanage during a night session (perhaps nearing a decade ago?) where this boulder was pushed just to the point of tipping by the weak legs of a few people before they were talked out of it. At that time it was definitely an elitist thing rather than an attempt to improve the landing.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 11, 2019, 05:56:42 pm
If its put back shall we also not build an artificial tree for the one that went missing under bodymachine.

With an specially sharpened point to fully recreate the terror of the first moves?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 12, 2019, 04:35:04 pm
We put it back
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cowboyhat on December 12, 2019, 04:39:11 pm
Great

Does it wobble? what went down?
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: cofe on December 12, 2019, 04:49:39 pm
We put it back

Legends. Well done.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Bonjoy on December 12, 2019, 04:58:19 pm
No wobble, solid as the proverbial.
Winched it back in to rough position then tweaked the exact details with the help of assentionists and old photos.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: teestub on December 12, 2019, 05:49:26 pm
Big ups.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Fiend on December 12, 2019, 05:50:16 pm
Good winching sir.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: nik at work on December 12, 2019, 06:36:06 pm
Nice one  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: haydn jones on December 12, 2019, 09:47:03 pm
That's amazing news well done! I must admit I didn't think it would be possible but maybe I'm remembering the block being bigger than it is. Lots of wad points going your way.
Title: Re: The Joker bloc
Post by: Jacqusie on December 14, 2019, 11:46:25 am
We put it back


Good effort chaps, that problem is part of Plantation history and despite the endevours of nefarious forces, it's the Joker again, rather battered and bruised, but still standing
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