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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 12:45:41 pm

Title: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 12:45:41 pm
If you've red/headpointed/GUpped/YoYo'd/Retro'd/Pink Anasazi'd anything harder then feel free to start a new poll or leave a comment.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: nathanie1 on January 30, 2015, 01:43:22 pm
Did you start this thread so you have another reason to mention that you onsighted an E5?  :fishing:


 :strongbench:
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 03:08:40 pm
This one time...at the roaches...
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: jwi on January 30, 2015, 03:54:58 pm
Very little trad climbing this year. 6b/+ on very loose rock 15m above decent gear = E4? I have no idea really.
Sustained 6c with some risk of breaking the ankle = E4 as well I guess?
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Sasquatch on January 30, 2015, 04:15:29 pm
highballing doesn't count does it?
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Stubbs on January 30, 2015, 04:36:13 pm
There are plenty of things in Beeshop bigger than grit routes so I don't see why not!
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Fiend on January 30, 2015, 08:39:22 pm
Only E4 (including 3 so-called E5s that are actually E4, well one's a definitive split grade E4/5).

But I did do 28 of them. And almost all of them were great  :)
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Fiend on January 30, 2015, 08:45:26 pm
That's actual TRAD btw. Farting about above 20 pads on an old-skool grit E5 beer towel solo that's now 6C(!) doesn't count. Bishop might be quite different.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: abarro81 on January 30, 2015, 08:53:16 pm
 :lol: at your signature Fiend. I got told off for my choice of words.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Fiend on January 30, 2015, 09:18:13 pm
You got told off by 3-9, that gets inverted to make it basically an endorsement :)
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: ghisino on January 30, 2015, 10:44:31 pm
what english grade would the enduro corner on astroman get?

that also qualifies for "most pumped i've been in 2014, without falling off". unfortunately there's no scale for that.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: kelvin on January 31, 2015, 12:05:23 am
So the E10 onsight... Dave Birkett?
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Muenchener on January 31, 2015, 05:53:30 am
Tragically I am still at heart too British not to ponder the equivalent E-grades of the harder trad routes I climb. FWIW I would think dangerous 6b+ could be E4.

+1. I'm even old enough to remember when Statement was "E7" and Consenting Adults was "E4", so that gives a couple of reference points. Sport 6b+ was low-to-middle E3 at that exchange rate, so E4 for bold 6b+ seems completely reasonable.

Much as it's fashionable on here to not greatly admire Rockfax, their grade conversion tables are definitely the most accurate.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: duncan on January 31, 2015, 09:39:00 am
Possibly insufficient data but this suggests trad. climbers are the worst for chasing numbers with E5 as the aspirational grade, even more than 8a.


Very little trad climbing this year. 6b/+ on very loose rock 15m above decent gear = E4? I have no idea really.
Sustained 6c with some risk of breaking the ankle = E4 as well I guess?

Either of these could be E5. Depends on degree of commitment, ease of reading, local grading conventions, and other  intangibles.

what english grade would the enduro corner on astroman get?

Solid E4. Most Brits. seem to think the route as a whole gets E5.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: kingholmesy on January 31, 2015, 08:44:41 pm
Possibly insufficient data but this suggests trad. climbers are the worst for chasing numbers with E5 as the aspirational grade, even more than 8a.

I'm not sure I'm convinced but that.  I think it more likely proves what I've often heard said - that hard trad starts at E6.  Certainly the drop-off in the number of climbers onsighting E6 is pretty marked.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: TobyD on February 01, 2015, 01:51:33 pm
I'd agree. It's roughly 7b+ or harder but safe or 7a ish and sketch usually. Whereas e5s seem pretty reasonable quite often. Both massive generalisations, just my point of view. Shoving gear in on a 7b+ feels somewhat challenging.
Possibly insufficient data but this suggests trad. climbers are the worst for chasing numbers with E5 as the aspirational grade, even more than 8a.

I'm not sure I'm convinced but that.  I think it more likely proves what I've often heard said - that hard trad starts at E6.  Certainly the drop-off in the number of climbers onsighting E6 is pretty marked.
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: tc on February 01, 2015, 02:56:55 pm
I wonder how many of those E5s in the poll were on grit (and therefore shouldn't count)?  :devil-smiley:
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Fultonius on February 01, 2015, 04:11:31 pm
Mine wasn't, but it did have a few bolts  :worms:
Title: Re: Hardest Trad Onsight of 2014
Post by: Will Hunt on February 01, 2015, 06:56:42 pm
I wonder how many of those E5s in the poll were on grit (and therefore shouldn't count)?  :devil-smiley:

Or really soft and selected as such.
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