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power club / Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March

« Last post by Aussiegav on Today at 04:44:47 am »

Power Club

Monday -
3x 90% hangs. BW plus 12.5kg. Half crimp
3x 90% hangs. BW plus 17.5kg. Open hand
3x 7sec hangs 8mm micros. Feet on chair

Tuesday
Depot after work
Red circuit V3-5. 20 problems. 4min/problem. Did 17 of 20. Very taxing session.



Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Reintroducing weight training once a week. Been reading a bit on how it’s important in minimising impact of lowering testosterone levels with age.

Took it steady, no big weights, arthritis & reduced range of movement in right elbow is very noticeable.

90s on the rower

Bent over rows
2x10. Bar plus10kg
3x10. Bar plus 20kg. (Go to 30kg next time)
Military Press
3x 10. Bar plus 10kg.
Bench press
3x10. Bar plus 20k. 25kg. hard
Dips
3x8 with green band
pistol squats
3x5 with blue band


Friday
Rest

Saturday
Went out to Burbage North for some bouldering. Wanted to try Striker (left hand), Sitting in Oxford. Some guys had a top rope on Striker. So I then had a go on Clunge to warm up using the low wall on the left for feet. Which does see logical, but reduces the grade a lot.
Got rained on. Bailed and went indoors.
Not been outside bouldering in a while. Found it difficult to warm up.


10x 4min boulder sets at the Climbing Works on the Yellow Circuit. Really nice circuit & nice holds.


Sunday

Peloton, stretching & mobility

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news / Re: calling of the lime

« Last post by Moo on Yesterday at 11:59:45 pm »

Whilst your assertion is entirely true bradders it also implies that people climb on grit during limestone season and vice Versa.

This of course could not be true as it would obviously be a great heresy.

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power club / Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March

« Last post by James Malloch on Yesterday at 10:10:05 pm »

thought I'd have an OS go at Infernal Din 7b+. This failed in many ways, 1: I fell off, 2: I'd forgotten I'd done it before 20 yrs ago, and 3: I was on the wrong route.

Possibly the best onsight fail I’ve heard. Sounds like a good week though 

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equipment / Re: Recommend me a sport rope?

« Last post by Ru on Yesterday at 09:58:03 pm »

Do decathlon still do the pink 9mm in 100m does anyone know? A friend of mine said they didn’t anymore… 

It's still available on their website.

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power club / Power Club 689 20th - 26th March

« Last post by Duma on Yesterday at 08:35:38 pm »

M - UCR 90 min, circuits. 2 x 6b+ to warm up, then: 6c7a+ {92/92 moves 5 min), 6 min rest, 7a7a (76/82 moves 5 min), 6 min rest, 6c7a+ (64/92 moves, 3 min), 12 min rest, 7a7a (64/82 moves, 3 min), 12 min rest, 6c7a+ (78/92 moves, 3 min), 12 min, 7a7a (68/82 moves, 3 min) Satisfying pump. Think next time will do 10 min rests from the start.
T -
W - lunch, Flashpoint Swindon, 1 hr. All the red "V3-V4" and black "V5-V6" circuits. 26 problems, flashed all but 4, and 2 of those were slips from being overly casual. Good wall and think I can use it more this year to free up maybe one evening a week.
T - TCA 3hrs, mostly trying hard things. Managed a blue I'd tried before, and 2 others I hadn't, one flashed. Finished a 7A+ on the comp wall too, along with trying a bunch of other moves and repeating a few tricky things. Should have stopped half an hour sooner though.
F -
S - Portland, Cuttings. A million people there, including some on The Breathing Method 8a, so sacked that off and thought I'd have an OS go at Infernal Din 7b+. This failed in many ways, 1: I fell off, 2: I'd forgotten I'd done it before 20 yrs ago, and 3: I was on the wrong route. Was spitting with rain by the time I reached the belay so stripped it. Rain stopped pretty soon and an easier route showed the rock was still dry, so decided to get back on what turned out to be Chasing Highs 7b+. Just held the reachy crux move, but fell bringing other hand up to a better hold. Toughie, felt easily 7c, though I suspect the taller gent would piss it.
S - Cuttings again, got on Breathing Method this time. Better than my previous go 20 years back, in that I technically did all the moves, but of the 8 that count, I barely linked more than 2 together. Sacked it and thought I'd finish off Chasing Highs from yesterday, failed at crux again. Gave up on the idea of getting up anything of note, did a nice 5 and repeated the still excellent Cutting Edge 6c+ (via a new set of bolts on the left of the arete, but how on earth this makes it a different route is beyond me)
71 kg
Lovely weekend despite the poor climbing efforts, was good to get out in the van.

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news / Re: calling of the lime

« Last post by Bradders on Yesterday at 08:31:05 pm »

I haven’t got rid of my long running finger injury and think I’ve got a brand new shoulder injury to rehab but we sayin? I’m sensing an earlier call this year.

Tomorrow looks to be one of the best days on grit - plus didn’t we have snow in April last three years?

The lime call has nothing to do with grit connies though, and vice versa.

Been pretty wet recently though and more on the way next week so can't imagine it's imminent.

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equipment / Re: Recommend me a sport rope?

« Last post by Muenchener on Yesterday at 08:25:48 pm »

Another vote for the pink Decathlon 8.9. To my surprise, considering it was my first modern properly skinny single rope, it's been not only one of the best handling but also one of the most durable ropes I've ever had.

Significantly less impressed with their green 9.5

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equipment / Re: Recommend me a sport rope?

« Last post by remus on Yesterday at 07:53:35 pm »

Consult the strings thread. I'd imagine Decathlon's Simmond will come out on top.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17683.0

Another vote for the pink simond ropes, I usually get a year of heavy use before I have to start chopping, then another couple of years of gradually decreasing length. Well impressed with the longevity given it's a pretty skinny rope that handles pretty nicely.

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equipment / Re: Recommend me a sport rope?

« Last post by Paul B on Yesterday at 07:46:36 pm »

Consult the strings thread. I'd imagine Decathlon's Simmond will come out on top.

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equipment / Re: Recommend me a sport rope?

« Last post by Duma on Yesterday at 07:36:56 pm »

Sterling are great handling and last but expensive and tricky to get hold of in the UK. Mammut are horrible, worst handling rope I've ever had, wouldn't get another one. My beal (sorry can't remember model) handles well and was cheap but is def wearing quicker than the sterlings. I've not had a decathlon but have used others and they seem good, handle nicely, and at the price any longevity concerns are probably moot anyway. I believe they're made by Cousin who make a few other firms ropes too? Tbh I'll probably go down the decathlon route next time.