UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Fiend on April 19, 2006, 08:08:47 pm
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Shameless list nerd topic, sorry :-X But even so might be amusing.
Some of these shamelessly stolen from Readza's Grit List (update it damn you!), others are semi-obvious, and some are hypothetical nonsense. And maybe some have been done by persons who remain anonymous to all but those in the know...
Stanage:
Wall right of White Wand
Burbage:
Line right of Superstition.
Roof right of knight's move (if holly ever goes)
Destructive Tendencies direct
Slab left of 3 Blind Mice
Impossible groove
Rib left of Notorious BLG
Face/arete right of Simba's Pride
Braille Trail direct
Groove and rib right of Parthian
Arete right of Goliath
Wizard Ridge
Wizard Ridge Direct
Groove right of Captain Invincible
Quarries:
Blank wall at Lawrencefield
Blank wall at far end of Millstone
Froggatt:
Wall left of Beau Geste
Wall right of Beau Geste
Greedy Pig Direct
Curbar:
Smiling Buttress
Smiling Buttress arete
Elder Statesmen direct
Rivelin / quarries:
Slab right of That's My Lot
Direct wall beneath that E4 6a
Gardoms?
Birchens?
Chatsworth?
Cratcliffe:
The groove
Thin seam/overlap parallel to the groove
Ramshaw:
Crack right of Ramshaw Crack
Roaches:
Headless Horseman arete / roof
Hen Cloud
Chircausio
45' arete at right end of crag
Elsewhere:
Wimberry - wall right of MaDMAn
Yorkshire:
Lots at Brimham.
Charlie's Dilemma prow
Prow left of Giggling Crack
Wall left of New Statesman
Loaded Direct
Lancashire:
Wall left of Alec Trench @ Egerton
Wall right of corner right of Ice Cool Acid Test @ Egerton
Arete right of Cherry Bomb @ Egerton
Other line on Stanworth Slab
Wall above pool @ Denham
etc etc, can't think of any more now...
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Lancashire Highballs... Don't forget all those blank walls between the cracks on the Long Back Wall at brownstones...
And what about those in Yorkshire? There must be hundreds!
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line right of living in oxford was done years ago!!!i know cos i belayed the first ascentionist on it while he was working it!is E8 7A but forget the name.
wall left of beau guest has is rampart which has been done without the side runners as far as i know.also think the line the right of bg has been done but not 100% sure.
lots of the others like wizard ridge direct are pretty much imporssible!had a look at braille trail direct years ago and its a proper death route!!!you need big cahoonas to lead that!!
rich
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My mistake, I meant the line right of Superstition, as mentioned in the guide.
Rampart is now Soul Doubt, however there is still a wall leading to thin cracks between that and BG.
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okies.think miles may have had a look at the route to the right of supersticion too but not sure.
yeah think the direct to the cracks is pretty much mega hard/a la'impossible
rich
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Cratcliffe prow
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/crat%20012small.jpg)
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Have tried:
Blank wall at Lawrencefield - lots of hard moves very sustained but certainly climbable (super highball or more realistically a route)
Arete at the end of Millstone (the bank wall is well blank) - one tricky final move, not that hard, this should have been done by now really (probably a route as it has reasonable half height gear)
Wall between Soul Doubt and BG - really hard sequence in the middle, but quality line IMHO
Pool Wall, Denham - sustained, hard, no placeable gear but potentially soft landing (depending on the shopping trolleys location) sadly the rock isn't great and neither is the venue (definitely a route)
Slab right of TML, Rivelin Quarries - hard but certainly a boulder problem with mat technology
Braille Trail Direct - a bit shit IMHO, a couple of very hard moves into Braille trail
The direct into Delivered, Rivelin Quarries - Probably not THAT hard
The other Stanworth Slab - having read the various descriptions of the Gaskins slab I think that he may have taken a hybrid line combining the left-hand start with the righ-hand finish. So there may still be two slab lines to go at, sticking left is sick hard, sticking right is even harder (of course I might be wrong about the line he took)
What about the Lawrencefield slab mentioned in the guide, I know nothing about it...
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i thought that slab at lawrencefield looked really good. totally clean, and a boulder problem. If you want to get to it, you walk along the top of the crag on the path beside the fence, until you see a little broken down wall on the right. Drop down here, and cut back on yourself a little and it's there.
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i thought that slab at lawrencefield looked really good. totally clean, and a boulder problem. If you want to get to it, you walk along the top of the crag on the path beside the fence, until you see a little broken down wall on the right. Drop down here, and cut back on yourself a little and it's there.
Is this not one of Iain Farrar's things which was inexplicably missed out of guide for some reason. I think details might be on UKC database. I could be totally wrong, as I don't know the exact bit you are talking about, but Iain did do a slab or two at Lawrencefield that got missed out of guide.
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Just checked. Details not on UKC database. Will chase Iain for info
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Yeah I noticed that Who Wants To Be lucky Pierre was in the FA list but not anywhere in the route description, or the index. Incidentally this is definitely not the slab in question as it isn't a slab - I was with him when he did the FA. Are there other Farrar creations missing? Whats happened to them? We should be told, petition your local councilor, for too long has too little been made of the efforts of this man ramble ramble ramble when I were a youth rhubarb rhubarb men were men blahdy-blah....
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Ooooo hang on maybe it was a slab, or at least slabby but definitely not a smooth clean slab. And this time I'm sure, yup, def-fin-ite-ly one-hundred-percento. Anyone know any good care homes specialising in senile dementia?
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He did a couple of other things as well as that, but may not have recorded them ::) Will investigate
I can't believe the arete right of Kaluza Klein still hasn't been climbed properly. There is an E4 6b version that scurrys of rightward before the break, but the arete and obvious leftward topout remain undone despite looking pretty steady. Looks like one that should be bouldered out ground up though. Good flat landing, massive jug to finish, possible gear in break, not very high.
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Just spoke to Iain. He says the two things he did were further along from Who Wants To Be Lucky Pierre, up a slab on a ledge. One up the LH side with a tree at the top Boonapi E3/4 6c, one up the RH side Marramunt HVS 6a/6b. Said both would make good highballs.
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more lancashire-ness:
Lower Montcliffe quarry has a number of aretes, all hard. A highball slopey one and a big route one... The route is a guesstimated E7 6c.
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The Prow at Thorn Crag, must be the hardest climbable - unclimbed line around.
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Chiariscuro was climbed last week by Jon Read and I seconded him. Whether it was the first ascent is open to question, but it wasn't actually that bad climbing, but clearly very bold. I'd suggest E6/7 6b, but it may be easier, nonetheless, a very good route.
Headless Horseman Arete will happen but it's just very serious and tenuous.
There are plenty of routes still out there....
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Right,
here's a blast form the past!!
Braille trail direct is OK once into the braille trail.....relative to the begining that is.
I TRed it a while ago (er.......... about 15years ago actually!!!!!) and felt it to be WAY harder than anything else around at the time - this was when E7 was ard!!
I reckon it is THE line in burbage to go.
As i did the braille trail the *jump* way at the top (i'm only 5ft 7) there was no way i was gonna do that without gear (and i fell off on my first lead attempt)
But, time must have moved on.........i rarely climb now.........i'm sure this could be done if you had the will!!
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Mentioned on UKC a while ago:
by - Adam L on - 29 Sep 2006
In reply to boothy:
Dunno where James' proj is but Sam's is hideous. E12 probably - sustained 7a climbing on fragile pebbles, 50ft, no gear, death landing.
Would I be half-way correct in thinking that that would be the arete beneath Sickbay Shuffle then?? It certainly fits the description in all senses!!!!
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AndiT, possibly the one who may know. Has a direct start to Chameleon at Hen Cloud ever been done? Looks very climbable, although landing is not really ideal?
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Chameleon Direct, no, not as I'm aware anyway, it would ceratinly be a very slopey proposition!
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The double aretes to the left of the Notorious BLG were well chalked up aboout 3 weeks ago. So that may/should go this winter.
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BLG RIP
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Notorious BLG is fine as can be seen here;
http://just-another-chic.blogspot.com/
as for Notorious BIG. He wasn't so lucky.
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lieutenant worf i presume?
(http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1535/3559/320/Resize.jpg)
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Bungle be careful not to be disrespectful. You do know who the true notorious BLG is i presume. I was under the impression that he was as infamous as colorado bouldering grades.
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Bungle be careful not to be disrespectful. You do know who the true notorious BLG is i presume. I was under the impression that he was as infamous as colorado bouldering grades.
Not even the great BLG is that infamous!
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To get this thread back on track, The Midas Touch on the Golden Tower, Anglezarke needs tidying up by soloing, without resorting to side runners (like wot I lead it with). Probably E7 6c for the solo.
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Correct me if Im wrong but...
Surely its poor form to describe things as the "last great problems". Ive heard this term bandied around a lot and it seems to me that there are always going to be new great problems as the standard of climbing gets better. In t' olden days (I may be wrong but I think I saw this on Hard Grit) they were describing what is now E3 or thereabouts as the last great problems. What if some genius develops a new form of protection that simply sticks to flat rock as opposed to having to be placed in breaks/cracks etc. Unethical sounding and I dont know how it would work (not a scientist) but this would make just about anything other than rough, weak or uneven rock protectable. And as people train harder and harder or stickier rubber is invented then people might start climbing much much harder.
Anyway, all Im saying is that there are a seemingly infintessimal amount of "great" lines and problems to be done. In the 1900's who would have thought that Rhapsody would have been possible. In the 1700's who wouldnt have laughed at someone who said that one day humans would fly around in metal tubes. The standard of climbing has not yet reached is peak and with new technological advantages Im taking a Bosrupian view on the future of climbing.
Sorry if I just spouted bullshit.
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Anyway, all Im saying is that there are a seemingly infintessimal amount of "great" lines and problems to be done.
So name one and you will have made a reasonable contribution to this thread, otherwise you are, as you say, just spouting shite
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Will Hunt - Your simplistic vision of the future is missing a crucial point. Progress in difficulty is not linear over time. Progress is constrained within the bounds of physics. Take dynos as a simplified example. Over the years the distance people can dyno has increased, but the increase gets ever smaller as we approach the boundry of physical possibility. It is simplistic to assume that we will be making 10 metre dynos by 2100. The only way this can happen is for one of the immutables to change eg gravity, human physiology. Short of genetic/cybernetic engineering we will continue to make infinitesimal (BTW this means imeasurably tiny and tending toward zero, not infinate) gains in height, these will be ever more small and hard to acheive. The other major limiting factor then comes into play. When the difference between the worlds biggest dyno and the point beyond which any human can dyno gets so small it is measured in millimetres, how many of these are you likely to find on real rock? 99.9999...% of the dynos you find will be either side of this advancement range. It is a fact that the harder standards become the harder it becomes to find sufficiently hard lines on rock which aren't plain impossible. I'm not saying we have reached a point where standards can't improve (in fact I believe this point is unreachable), grades will increase because the closer to impossible you get the more extra difficulty will arise from a given unit of change in the perameters of the climb i.e. each extra millimeter dynoed is exponentially harder than the last. Basically it will be possible to squeeze quite a few grade rises out of small changes in the rock geometry. But crucially it will get to a point where it is nigh on impossible to find the next step forward on the random medium of rock. Ultimately the only way to make the next step forward will be on artificially produced problems, be they on rock or climbing wall.
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I think I need a lie down after that Jon ???
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Agree Bonjoy. It says something when the Cratcliffe groove, essentially about seven feet of climbing, is regarded as a last great problem.
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I think I need some ibruprofen after that...
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One bunch of bullshit deserves another.
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Bullshit? I thought your post made absolute sense bonjoy. But maybe I would....
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Glad it made sense to someone. Got lost a bit at the end, so have edited for clarity
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It made sense, it just, well, hurt a bit reading it
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Progress in difficulty is not linear over time.
That says it all really.
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i only read the bit in italics at the end which says 'bonjoy; reason; clarity' - is that your purpose statement? ;)
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Raison d'etre, please
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the smiley wall at curbar???
the arch thingy at slipstones??
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Bonjoy makes a fair point and of course humans cannot dyno increasingly high because we're not evolved for it and the ever present tyrant of gravity is holding us back. Of course if evolution decided that the climbers that could dyno the highest were "the fittest" and all the chicks started clamouring over Owen "that lanky guy from l'pool who only ever boulders who did the 7ft dyno" then we might be able to dyno higher.
That said the way I see it is that Bonjoy was agreeing with me in a way. i didnt mean that climbers could become infinately amazing because this would involve something daft like being able to climb a 90 degrees piece of perfectly plane rock. i just meant there was still a long way to go and perhaps its not right to refer to things as the "last" great problems. To my inexperienced little ears this makes it sound like your going to climb all the "last" great problems and then say "sack it, we've done all the great problems lets stick to 6a from now on".
I still think that there are plenty of advances still to be made technologically though even if evolution cant keep up and with stickier rubber and better protection then todays "last great problems" might become tomorrows punter grades (exaggerated I know but you catch my drift. Or do you?)
Once again. Apologies for crapness.
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i've actually top roped the arete at montcliffe and its never E7, it'd be a decent E6/6a, don't all rush at once. I did the wall to the left, can't remember name or grade.
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I think it's E4, did you try the slopey wierd arete or the wall to the left of said arete?
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I must have been drunk when i wrote that because i can't really remember doing so. i've roped the arete and led the wall, which i called you've got to fight for your riots to work, not sure what i gave it but its recorded in the online lancashire new routes guide.
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You gave it E4/5 6a/b apparently... Looks good anyway.
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pardon my ignorance and lack of guidebook purchase here:
hasnt the smiley wall (the short wall with the big smile feature) been done yet??
it was in a video yrs ago - Ben Moon top roping it - and had been tried by many.... just thought those of you good enough would have done it by now.....
i tried it about 12 yrs ago, and it was nails..... but I was just about headpinting (sic) E6 at the time!! I think it's even got gear....
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i've actually top roped the arete at montcliffe and its never E7, it'd be a decent E6/6a, don't all rush at once. I did the wall to the left, can't remember name or grade.
Yes, the striking sharp arete, I remember clm telling me. This is a proper route though, whereas the obvious highball at montcliffe is the rounded arete to the right. Much harder. Also difficult to get it in condition as it doesn't dry off much in winter, and in summer it's too hot. Not that I've had a proper go, though I know people who have.
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pardon my ignorance and lack of guidebook purchase here:
hasnt the smiley wall (the short wall with the big smile feature) been done yet??
it was in a video yrs ago - Ben Moon top roping it - and had been tried by many.... just thought those of you good enough would have done it by now.....
i tried it about 12 yrs ago, and it was nails..... but I was just about headpinting (sic) E6 at the time!! I think it's even got gear....
It's very hard, it's been top roped in one, it has a bad landing, the gear wouldn't stop you hitting the ground.
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Chameleon Direct, no, not as I'm aware anyway, it would ceratinly be a very slopey proposition!
Go check it Andi, not the most impossible thing I have ever seen. Reckon it would go.
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pardon my ignorance and lack of guidebook purchase here:
hasnt the smiley wall (the short wall with the big smile feature) been done yet??
it was in a video yrs ago - Ben Moon top roping it - and had been tried by many.... just thought those of you good enough would have done it by now.....
i tried it about 12 yrs ago, and it was nails..... but I was just about headpinting (sic) E6 at the time!! I think it's even got gear....
It's very hard, it's been top roped in one, it has a bad landing, the gear wouldn't stop you hitting the ground.
or falling down that deep dark chasm....
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Chameleon Direct, no, not as I'm aware anyway, it would ceratinly be a very slopey proposition!
Go check it Andi, not the most impossible thing I have ever seen. Reckon it would go.
Ok, will do. Want a little break from Hen Cloud for a bit now though, that walk in is giving me nightmares and the wind has picked up so the crag has become a less hospitable place. I'll definitely check it out though, there are a few other good bits and bobs to do up there too.
I'm back in the Churnet for a bit now, it helps to build your grit appreciation! ::)
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As far as the grade progression / on sight issue goes I've been around long enough to remember the cover of Crags with a pic of Supersonic (er I think) captioned 'could this be Britains first 6c'? and when anyone climbing tech 6b would be a 'recognised' name.
Things have moved on, and will move on. What was once cutting edge is now a comfy resting ledge. Of course there is a physical limit to how hard humans can climb (i.e. 3mm slopers 2m apart on a 45 degree overhang will be a bit tricky) but I don't think we've got close to the limit yet.
If you need the evidence look at recent news of young whipper snappers climbing sport 9a and >V13 with ease. To think that grit will be immune from this trend is just parochial arrogance.
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If that's directed at me, I think you should re-read what I wrote.
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nobody's mentioned the advances in bullshitting. someday there'll be 1 or a few guys capable of telling the biggest of porky pies with the greatest of ease. the masses will believe them, and then the great unclimbed lines will fall.
..................on a day when they couldn't get anyone to go with them, or just with their vision impaired girlfriend to spot or belay....
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..................on a day when they couldn't get anyone to go with them, or just with their vision impaired girlfriend to spot or belay....
Except a local fisherman and their border collie? Neither of whom could do the moves.
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..................on a day when they couldn't get anyone to go with them, or just with their vision impaired girlfriend to spot or belay....
Except a local fisherman and their border collie? Neither of whom could do the moves.
To be fair, the border collie was feeling a little unwell and certainly not climbing at his best.
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Just spoke to Iain. He says the two things he did were further along from Who Wants To Be Lucky Pierre, up a slab on a ledge. One up the LH side with a tree at the top Boonapi E3/4 6c, one up the RH side Marramunt HVS 6a/6b. Said both would make good highballs.
I never knew this! - other wise it would have gone in with the other uppertier stuff... wonder why Iain never posted it up anywhere...?!?
As for the Purple Acorns thingy - I don't think I could find it proper - or it looked pants - or Grimer missed it? - probably the latter..... :-\
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Right, question...
Why is the Cratcliffe groove so hard / so unclimbed? Was moping around a mostly damp Cratcliffe the other day and having a good old ponder in the groove's direction. What's the score?
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Why is the Cratcliffe groove so hard
There are no holds, and the breaks above and below are quite narrow and blind. As for why it hasn't been done, you could argue its because the feature doesn't extend to a full height line. But you'd be wrong, its cos no one can do the move.
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Isn't the arete of the groove one big hold though? Either to layback off on the right, or gaston/guppy off on the left... Although I can see how it would be harder the worse the breaks are...
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I still maintain that this is the true LGP at Cratcliff
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/crat%20012small.jpg)
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Isn't the arete of the groove one big hold though? Either to layback off on the right, or gaston/guppy off on the left...
Do you not think it may have crossed someone's mind to try this at some point?? I know it sounds crazy, but it may be harder than it looks.
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Apparently shorties like The Dawes have tried the gaston/ chimney method, whilst taller folks like Bentlegs and Idol Eyes have gone for the layback + jump method. Neither seems to have got them to work to well, there are stories that the move has been done once but thats it.
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I'm with Lovejoy. That prow/wall thing looks just as good in the flesh
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At the risk of sounding like an ignoramus, where is it? Is it round near Hueco Wall or summat? It looks a little sparse grips-wise...
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It's between the Grimoire block (the one above Brain Dead) and Hueco Wall. There is also a possible line up the middle of the steep side, jump start maybe. Both have holds and look possible, but hard and with deteriorating landings as you gain height.
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lets not mince words, that cratcliffe prow thing basically doesn't have a landing. i'd be more inclined to get on the groove project!
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Gosh. aren't the hOlds made Of biScuit as wEll?
i still reckon the best one is the prow at burb nth, using sphinx footholds for hands.
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What are you talkinG abOut pinwheel? The hOldS are totally bombEr A1 Cratcliff special. Ding dong knock knock curly whirly cuckoo!! (http://mysite.verizon.net/donderdo/emoticons/crazy.gif)
Dave I never said it was a boulder problem, this is the route bit of the forum.
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lets not mince words, that cratcliffe prow thing basically doesn't have a landing.
LOL :lol: A very apt description looking at the picture!
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Good lOoking prOwject, and the few holdS there are look finE.
See Cofe. You needn't make wild claims about the integrity of the rock just to say goose in a stupid way.
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The Cratcliffe Groove. Thinking that the youth will take this, its a kin to Chimera, High Rocks. With time the holds will settle down, and with the advances on the finishing holds (out rt) this is going to be the true "hardest route".
Wish i was around to work this route, had one great session on it, then three bad. good luck rock stars.
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Dave I never said it was a boulder problem, this is the route bit of the forum.
Neither did I, neither did I.....
...or did I?
No i didn't.
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...there are stories that the move has been done once but thats it.
...theres a lot of tall stories goin around at the moment! ;) Maybe we need to upgrade him to "Theallseeing"
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the gaston/ chimney method, ... , the layback + jump method.
cheers, I was wondering that n' all. Should check other thread's before asking silly question. At the risk of asking another silly question, it's a groove, has anyone tried bridging it?
With that prow thing, if you wait fifteen or twenty years or so, then you'll have a classic route that could be done safely with a tree side runner. Just remember kids, put the sling round the trunk so you don't deck out when a branch snaps on you, like Uncle Paz did.
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The Bransby did the very steep arete on the Cratcliffe boulder today. About 7c ish was the verdict, but very high and the landing is a horror show. Still the slab to the left, and the real biggie up the middle of the overhanging wall to do yet. Bouldering for the brave, I reckon!
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For clarification, is this the one facing the camera in the Bonjoy photo above? Looks superb!
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Thats the one. It is a lovely line. The vague ramp line to the right (not really visible in Bonjoys pic) is the real pearler though. Borderline boulder problem/route really, but worth the risk if you've got the talent.
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In the light of the recent discussion here of what is and is not a boulder problem, what style was this very high problem done in; top-roped, abbed or ground up? And isn't it amazing lines like this still exist in the Peak
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Must have been there after us then Percy. Line looks good. I abbed down to look at the ramp, but the left arete looked good and I'd actually guessed 7C so if someone wants to send me a small medal you know the address. The ramp line is possible. hard, but possible. It won't be a jump start, you'll be able to pull on and go to the ramp. Needs a clean at the top so if you're keen to clean it feel free! ;) Will make a good project. It would be possible to build a landing platform too... epic but perhaps worthwhile for an excellent hard grit problem.
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The Bransby did the very steep arete on the Cratcliffe boulder today. About 7c ish was the verdict, but very high and the landing is a horror show.
you're shitting me? waddage.
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Shame we didn't know, eh Dave? Could've popped over from the Stride for a gander. Sounds very impressive, especially if he did it ground up.
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i think me doing the same 5a slab problem 4 times is bigger news.
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The Bransby did the very steep arete on the Cratcliffe boulder today. About 7c ish was the verdict, but very high and the landing is a horror show. Still the slab to the left, and the real biggie up the middle of the overhanging wall to do yet. Bouldering for the brave, I reckon!
:thumbsup: Awesome.
Not the first time Bransby has climbed something i'd chalked down as very-big-numbers at 7c! Think I need my gradeometer recalibrating.
Come on then what's the details? Name? Grade? Pics? Syle? How does it climb? Is it over once you get past the first few moves i.e. is it a goer for people with balls of normal proportion?
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In the light of the recent discussion here of what is and is not a boulder problem, what style was this very high problem done in; top-roped, abbed or ground up?
Hopefully we'll get the word from the man himself, but I know as much as that he went and abbed down it pretty much as soon as Bonjoy posted that pic up.
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Talking of last great problems being climbed, can anyone confirm whether Keenus did his new route right of Superstition yesterday???
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fine effort ben - any chance the ground could be made safer, or is it too major? (thinking magic wood style with logs etc.)
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I think Ben checked it out and cleaned it on ab, but eventually had a do on a rope before dispatching - and quite right too. Ground-upping stuff that's high but has a landing might be ok, but this boulder has an abismal landing area and is massive. This is defo one problem thats not sure whether or not its a route!
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Can we have an old skool number for the theoretical matless onsight too, then?? ;)
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Did Ben stay on the right all the way or rock round onto the slab at two thirds height? To me the former looked easier but scary and the latter looked harder but safer.
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Yo yo,
First off a big thankyou to Bonjoy, if you could post up some more pictures of projects at this sort of grade that would be ace. I am too lazy to go find them myself.
Also thanks to Heason and Myles who turned up with a couple of pads at just the right time, my mum was turning up but I was feeling a little doubtfull about trying it with just her and the dog spotting. Klem is only good for longer falls when he has time to stop digging and get into position.
I abbed down the line on friday in my trainers and gave it a clean and felt the holds. I was considering then trying it ground up (not technically ground up but I hadn't tried the moves) with a bit of a team. The nice weather yesterday and my lack of patience meant I went out on my own again and practiced the top off the ab rope - the bottom was safe so I left this to boulder out.
Had a couple of goes on the bottom on my own (klem kept on buggering off, said he couldn't be arsed spotting when there was all this mud to roll in) but didn't really make much head way. Was just off to get another pad when Myles and Ben turned up.
1st go with pads and spotters I did it (starting from standing on the block to the left.) I then decided to try it from the ground without using the block at all and did that the next go (prob half a grade harder)
As you may know I am shit at grading and naming problems and also with the style it was climbed in I am even more confused.
I guess it was Fb7b+ off the block and maybe 7c from the ground. Although the top does get easier (I stayed on the arete all the way up - heading for the big jug on the overhanging side just below the top) you could have a pretty spicy fall from there. It felt like a highball boulder to me but I think if I hadn't abbed it then I would have been shitting myself. Prob E6/7 for the ground up????
Ben did get some pictures so might be able to post them up if y'all interested.
Can't think of a name yet. Probably call it Sparrow or My Best Mate the Watermelon or something.
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Good effort Ben, it looks a fine line.
but I know as much as that he went and abbed down it pretty much as soon as Bonjoy posted that pic up.
Is that around the time that you finally stopped pissing yourself at Bonjoy for putting up pictures of 'impossible' boulders on t'interweb?
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I've a bunch of other lines (over 70 in the book in my desk, all in the peak), some better tha others naturally, but I might start having to charge for the scouting time, or auctioning them on ebay.
Oh go on then, here's a stupidly obvious one which is crying out for a big team with mats to sort out. Not on a par with the one you just did but worthy. The arete right of Kaluza Klein. has been done to the break (Pan o Raisan E4 6b??) with an escape right. But the leftward/direct line looks a goer, with a huge jug only a couple of moves from where the E4 goes right. The landing is good too. Might need a cleaning monkey to ab the top first.
Nice names, classics of the genre ;D.
Any chance of some beta on the start moves? What did you think of the line up the steepside?
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On the same chunk of rock, anybody checked out the Hueco-esque project line coming up through the cave to reach the bottom of Dry Wit in a Wet Country, which would provide a suitable highball finish (in keeping with the title of the original thread). Obviously dead hard and possibly not independent enough of the encroaching side wall of the cave, but sometimes it's hard to say without actually pulling on.
Just wondered, that's all.
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Looked at the line ages ago, but I think I filed it under mega hard/impossible. Could well have put in in the wrong file though.
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Mad props to El Mocho. looking forward to more posts of this ilk.
anybody checked out the Hueco-esque project line coming up through the cave to reach the bottom of Dry Wit in a Wet Country
This was Canadian Frank's project circa 99-00. He was crazy psyched for it.
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Oh Simon, Simon, Simon...... The cave under Dry Wit is A) Absolutely the living end hard, B) in a hole under a boulder where everybody has a poo, and C) the last time I looked at it, it looked shite.... steep, but shite. I guess if you were smoking crack in the cave it might look awesome, but I wasn't at the time so I was rather non-plussed.
And this coming from a man who has climbed more than his fair share of bad problems - I reckon I know a minger when I see it! (Oh course, I could be wrong -it wouldn't be the first time....) ;)
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The cave under Dry Wit is A) Absolutely the living end hard, B) in a hole under a boulder where everybody has a poo, and C) the last time I looked at it, it looked shite.... steep, but shite.
Surely this is the essence of nu-skool Peak bouldering, high highballs aside?? :-\
(Apologies to everyone especially Peak explorophiles, but memories of this news item (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5436.0.html) still haunt me)
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I am firmly of the opinion that you should never write a piece of rock off completely, even when you've checked it and decided it is shite. Just of late I have been returning to areas that I once thought had no further development potential and each time I have been pleasantly surprised at what I missed the first time. Basically, what I'm saying is that sometimes you have to get on them to realise if they are any good. It is incredible how the simplest of things can completely change your perspective.
That cave may well prove to be unfeasible/pointless etc, but on the other hand...
Anyway, Percy, what happened to you? Time was that you were putting up new lines left right and centre, all over the Peak and Yorkshire, yet now we don't hear a thing. Have you retired/ worn yourself out building that climbing wall or are you keeping a load of secret venues under wraps?
And JB, who was Canadian Frank? Are you bulling, or did this character actually try the line in question?
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Just biding my time, Simon, biding my time! Been busy of late, but might turn my attention back to projects on the grit now, if it ever stops raining (its started again, after the 1 and a half days of dry conditions we just had). Got a nice 'new venue' in the Peak to clean up - 5 or 6 nice big line to go at. Obviously, I'm not at liberty to say where at present......
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And JB, who was Canadian Frank? Are you bulling, or did this character actually try the line in question?
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/PatnFrank.jpg)
Of course he's kosher, you think I make this stuff up? He thought that roof was the best project in the peak, tried it a bit, very enthusiastically, but with little results. I thought it was a tad futuristic, until of course Dave Graham moves to Abersoch, Chris Sharma visits him and they go a-holidaying in the peak.
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strong team, all 4 of them
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What the score with the impossible groove at Burbage south?
I had a play on this 2 winters ago while checking out the far end of the edge, didn;t have my guidebook to hand and assumed it was Little Rascal, didn't realise it was unclimbed until I was leafing through the guide at the weekend.
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Its impossible and thats the story until someone does it - which will be never cos its impossible!
Was at RHS Cratcliffe on Sunday and saw many folk about and wondering if any decent shit had gone down - then went down to the woods and saw all the chalk on the prow and my jaw dropped - had it been finally sent?
Seeing the Bransby walking out of there and our dog sniffing his dogs arse - should have been obvious really! Effort!
Still got a few problems of my own in them there hills that I haven't given away to anyone yet and a funky little new bouldering crag that needs a bit of spick - but has some nice lines on it....
Keep going people - especially Unc somebody - one day it will all be yours ..!
:bow:
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Hey Bonjoy et all,
You were askin for a bit of beta:
You kinda layback up the arete (can you layback something which is 45 degrees overhanging?) for the first few moves, you then wack a heal on for the next bit and do some hand shuffling. The last few moves, to get the jug are relatively easy as long as your heal stays on - if not you won't stop rolling until you hit the road. Once you grab the jug it is all over bar the shouting.
The start is technically the crux and with a couple of pads and a spotter you are safe for this - Miles and Ben were falling off the start a fair bit. The middle section is still tricky and fairly exciting but I think you would be ok...
Didn't really look at the steep line in much detail. It looked like a jump start to me and then tricky. It did look good though.
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Cheers Elmo. Am well keen to have a play.
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Is the arete left of Messiah anything? Maybe it is and I am being dim, but it looks bloody good, see here : http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44080
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The arete left of David/right of Goliath? Not sure, but yeah it looks good! :-\
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Yup, that's the one? Maybe you can span into Goliath or something, maybe it's impossible... Who has the beta?
Or did I just reveal someone's project?
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Burbage:
Arete right of Goliath
Yup it's a pretty obvious one, and definitely a line. No doubt those in the know know why no-one is known to have done it yet.
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That arete might look good but it's a bit close to the other routes. For the love of God will someone get the wall left of Messiah done. There's the line. It will go, but is fucking nails and reachy. And the best bit is the unpaddable landing.
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Right, we have two classy lines in a classy place, 2m from each other, get to it you lot... (I am abroad, so I am off the hook... yeah, as if I could do them!)
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Shit, I do not even know what line you are on about, but El muchio delivers the perfect beta....
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Some good pics on PF. http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=6091
(http://www.planetfear.com/includes/images/uploaded/61200712411241IMG_2864.JPG)
(http://www.planetfear.com/includes/images/uploaded/96200712411321IMG_2869.JPG)
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Ah, that route, I can not belive thats gone down! thought it was impossible, top marks to Mr Brandsby.
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Curbar:
Smiling Buttress arete
Plenty of chalk on this recently....good line! Doesn't look too hard really...
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Bransby did it 4 or 5 times yesterday. A couple of big number climbers left with there pants round there ankles
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I presume you aren't talking about Smiling Buttress there Jim!?
Was anyone trying the other lines on the block???
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El mo tried the right arete traversy thing, Ry was about an inch too short to pull on to the central ramp thing. We improved the landing slightly, a big log would improve it further.
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I'll make sure I have a hefty supper the night before my next visit in that case ;).
Am surprised the right arete didn't go, i thought that looked a bit easier then Ben's thing and with a much better landing.
Someone must have been trying the central line on a rope recently. It had chalk all over it about ten days ago anyway.
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I presume you aren't talking about Smiling Buttress there Jim!?
Was anyone trying the other lines on the block???
your correct there bonos, didn't see the quotes in fiends post.
There was chalk all over the right arete and on the middle ramp/undercut yesterday still
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The chalk on the right was El mo's, it was still damp from the fact the rock hasn't long been exposed to the air.
Here's another pic of Sparrow forward slash my best friend the watermelon. The landing doesn't look too bad, however the high bit is uneven with rocks underneath, and take note of the position of spotter number two.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/RyanCratcliffeprow.jpg)
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Nice shot! I wish I forearms like stretchy pieces of taffy. I'd like to see said spotter catch him from there!!
I cleaned a little of the moss off the right arete last year, but like you say it takes a while for the rock to dry and I never got round to pulling on.
Shit, I wish i'd been out at the crag yesterday instead of stuck in this god forsaken office :'(!
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Dammit Jim you got me right confused there.
No-one confessing to SBA then?
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looking good, I may come out pf retirement for that line....
how hard is it.
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XS 6b+ to you ;)
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That shot of Ry is quality, his forearm is as long as my leg. It is nice to see the true Baron of Boldness in the background making a rare grit apperance.
"The arete right of Kaluza Klein. has been done to the break (Pan o Raisan E4 6b??) with an escape right. But the leftward/direct line looks a goer, with a huge jug only a couple of moves from where the E4 goes right."
Did this as well the other day with the skuttle of left. Start not super tricky but the shuffling felt a bit exciting. I found it best not to look down to see how high I was, but I knew there was a little bush to land in to cushion the fall (we did have plenty of pads on the start which was nice)
"My Prune" (cos it is like a big version of the Raisan one) E5 6b/highball 7b????
(it probably doesn't really deserve a new name, it is only a variation finish)
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Nice!!
Adam mention this in this thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6819.0.html . It seems that Pan O Raison is more of an eliminatey thing starting on the arete and quickly sliding off right. My presumption that it climbed the arete as far as the break before going right was wrong. This being the case My Prune ( :great:) is the proper route/problem on this bit of rock.
Erm, suppose I should suggest something else for you. Have you tried those two lines at Birchen? One is the arete right of Gritstone Megamix and the other is the steep wall thing right of Obstructive Pensioner. Or there's that arete just right of the start of BAW's crawl. Will have a think.
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Good old 6B, whats the move looking like from the right of the start, is that the hard bit?
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Eh? The crux move is getting the break.
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The break? looks A1 anyways... you guys need to come down here, loads of high projects... will tune you over summer and will try and visit at the end of march. nice one El Mo, if they will have you at Eagle Tor, there is a very nice little wall for you to send.
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For those who haven't seen this on the Yellowslacks thread. 'Miles's Project' at Ravenstones, I get the impression it's an open project.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/383679082_dadc3ba722.jpg)
Certainly seems to fit the bill for this thread!
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Woof. Nice bit of rock. Is this highball height or route height?
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Knowing Ravenstones it's a gentle 6m highball height with a 200m potential fall down the grass slab that masquerades as a hillside beneath it, followed by being swept down the brook all the way into the Chew resevoir...
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The landing on this is gnarly. If this is where I think it is there's a route up the left hand face (out of sight) which is about VS. Is this the fin a way below the crag?
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Oh yes...
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followed by being swept down the brook all the way into the Chew resevoir...
That'd be quite an effort to flow all the way down to Dovestones reservoir then back upstream past Wimberry into the chew reservoir....
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A few things about that prwo. It is highball height, but proper highball. Someone on a thread here a while ago mentioned it as being at Dovestones, and even when I asked miles about this, he thought it was at the Dovestones, but this seemed to fir the description.
He said it felt like 7c+ or 8a. There is a landing, but beyond that there is a 30 degree slope. I'm sure he said it was ok but you had to get spotted onto that platform. However, having seen consumed, i think Miles is quite brave.
Also, that pic is taken on its good side, and i remember there is a bit of a chimney or something on the left.
On the plus side, if your good side is this good looking, then your bad side woyulld need to be pretty bad, and, if you cycle from the car park, then its about a 5 minute walk up the hill.
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Also I can't remember whether the buttress was wearing a bseball cap, or that is a piece of rock up on the hill behind.
I think if anyone did that they should be allowed at least three syllables.
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Its definitely at the Ravenstones, you can see Pulpit Ridge, Over the Moors and Black Mountain Collage peeping over its shoulder. I remember it looking highish but that was a long time ago and pre-mat. I do remember it looking as good as this shot suggests.
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Hi Andy,
I was certain that it was at the ravenstones, because i was at the Ravenstones when I took the pic.
No, what i meant was that in easrlier discussions about a Chew Prow Project, it had been said it was at the Dovestones, as I remember.
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Sorry, my confusion. This must be the now famous 'Chew Prow Poject' though.
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This must be the now famous 'Chew Prow Poject' though.
Or is that the Sickbay Shuffle arete?? ???
I'm sure I've seen more LGPs recently but I've forgotten them.
Oh what about Ron Ring Home Direct - finishes to the left independently of The Knock?
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I don't know if this has already been mentioned on here or not. Last week Bolton's strongest streak of piss, Ryan Pasquill, did the (I'm assuming) second ascent of Sparrow forward slash my bestfriend the watermelon. With Paul Smitton taking on sole spotting duty. I guess this makes it the first ground up ascent as well.
This came on the same day as flashed ascents of Crack and Slab at Curbar, Kaluza Klein and Genocide. Mad props.
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This came on the same day as flashed ascents of Crack and Slab at Curbar, Kaluza Klein and Genocide. Mad props.
Huh, an alright day, spose..
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Wowsers!
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This came on the same day as flashed ascents of Crack and Slab at Curbar, Kaluza Klein and Genocide. Mad props.
Huh, an alright day, spose..
Alright half day you mean. Did he do nothing in the afternoon? Slacker.
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I guess it can now go in the guide with a font grade sans dagger. Eh Bonjoy?
Paul Smitton also did Genocide ground up, second go. I don't know if this is worth mentioning but I can't imagine it gets done very often.
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When I spoke to Grimer last, I'm sure he did it in a very similar way/style/effort.
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I don't really have any idea how often it gets done. It was pure conjecture. I'm practising for journalism...
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Yes I did it with a couple of falls ground up, a climbing style that is both authentic and aspirational, but also one that all climbers, no matter what their relative standard, can relate to, a few years ago. However, it felt fairly ok for the grade, but I think that was due to my patented Wingspans of Unreason.
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This came on the same day as flashed ascents of Crack and Slab at Curbar, Kaluza Klein and Genocide. Mad props.
:thumbsup: Excellent work. Got to respect that. :thumbsup:
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, a climbing style that is both authentic and aspirational, but also one that all climbers, no matter what their relative standard, can relate to, a few years ago.
and one ought to be ashamed for want of prudence, the episode is delightful to me in retrospect; gritstone has its romance no less than gritstone...
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ground up, a climbing style that is both authentic and aspirational, but also one that all climbers, no matter what their relative standard, can relate to...
;D
I'm flattered to be quoted, even though you're probably taking the piss.
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Not at all :)
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Not a last great problem, but continuing from earlier info... BB has done the other arete of his Cratcliffe prow today. More of a lip traverse, Ben balked at the earlier mantel options and continued to the same finish.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/benbullfinch.jpg)
No name yet, though I've just had tenner on at Ladbrokes for 'Bullfinch backslash my chum the onion bhaji'. They gave me 3:1, fingers crossed!
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my close aquaintance the kumquat?
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(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/benbullfinch.jpg)
Why does he always have the cheeky chappy face on?
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Good effort BB. Liking the determined Yorkshire spots - he must be confident of all the pationess (?!) beneath ;)
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(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/benbullfinch.jpg)
:off: Old skool Cordless skinny matt with top rock boot cleaning surface I beleive :-[
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Sweeet. Looks ace. Grade?
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can you grade mud?
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can you grade mud?
Yes. I remember doing it at university. It involved a contraption comprising several sieves (I believe they're also used by master bakers) stacked on top of each other. Biggest holes at the top. The mud is put in the top sieve and the whole lot is given a good shake (Again, a technique which should be familiar to master bakers). Particles of a certain size, or grade, are then collected together in the relevant sieve.
Good effort again Ben. Looks like the job interview gods picked me a shitty day to be in London.
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can you grade mud?
It was a still a bit wet then?
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not wet, just really dirty
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can you grade mud?
Yes. I remember doing it at university.
i actually think Paz's PhD is(will be) in advanced soil mechanics.
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He might well be able to elucidate my vague memory of a stack of sieves then. I don't know how much detail Jim wanted. Jim?
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I didn't like to brag.
Basically I've seen the BS standard sieves used to classify different grades of sand, not mud. And only in the literature, not in real life.
I have therefore followed suit in copying pretty much the same language everyone else uses when describing them, only more confidently, and in doing so - whilst not rocking the boat or contributing anything productive to the exact area of sieves- have made it look pretty convincing to the lay person that I know lots more about sieves than they do, so hopefully they'll be both very impressed and too intimidated to ask me anything about it.
Now is the time therefore, for UKB to give me any interesting anecdotes about sieves in Civil Engineering or any other, some say lesser, Earth Sciences. Whilst not making promises, I will include the best ones and this will earn you a dedication/thanks or even a citation (or at least karma).
(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/science.jpg)
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I have used the sieves, though for soil, not mud. We graded mud by chewing it, I kid you not. I was reminded of this by Ray Mears' shroom-tripping mate recen demonstration.
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I've had the joys of "SCEINTIFICALLY" testing and describing mud in many geotechnics labs (chewing didn't come into it though :-\) and also using the aforementioned sieves to grade river bed sediments. Its not the most fun stuff.
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I was reminded of this by Ray Mears' shroom-tripping mate recen demonstration.
What a legend. Did you get your mud from those charitable boffins upstairs. I hope you wrote what kind it was on a piece of paper before staggering off your bar stool, wheeling round and falling into a mind-altered coma.
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C'mon people! Sieves for mud? Never heard of such silliness. You grade mud using a cyclosizer.
The Cyclosizer is a laboratory precision apparatus for the rapid and accurate determination of particle size distribution within the sub-sieve range.Particles are separated according to their Stokesian settling characteristics by a principle based on the well known hydraulic cyclone principle. The effective separating range is 50 to 8 microns for material of a specific gravity similar to quartz (SG 2.7), but the lower limit may extend down to 4 microns for particles of high specific gravity (for example - Galena with its SG of 7.5). Samples of up to 100 grams of minus 200 mesh or minus 325 mesh material may be separated into five fractions. The time required for an effective separation can range from 10 minutes to as long as 30 minutes. Extra time is required for dewatering and drying and weighing the separate fractions.The apparatus consists of five 3 inch diameter cyclones and ancillary equipment all mounted on a console cabinet with all necessary controls and gauges. The unit is shipped completely assembled and ready for use. It required as service items, single phase power, clean water at 9 to 14 liters per minute and a floor drainage point.
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Just spoke to Iain. He says the two things he did were further along from Who Wants To Be Lucky Pierre, up a slab on a ledge. One up the LH side with a tree at the top Boonapi E3/4 6c, one up the RH side Marramunt HVS 6a/6b. Said both would make good highballs.
Kim repeated this E3/4 of Farrar Monch's today thinking it was new - well you would wouldn't you, what with it being listed in the gudie specificaly as unclimbed. Anyway, it looked good. Heres a photo to stimulate interest. dunno what grade Kim thought but at one point he was saying if the crux was at the ground you'd be looking at font 6c (thought that might have been a touch glib), so taking the height into acount we're still not talking hero grades here, and it deserves traffic by the look of it. probably worth taking a rope to secure the spotters though.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Peak/kimslablawrence.jpg)
Farrar's name is shit though. I'd have called it "Lawrence Of Her Labia".
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That's a very lovely photograph.
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kim said font 6c after initially saying 6b. i'd be cautious with those grades as he's very good at that kind of thing.
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I really like the spotting team uniform. Did they have name badges on?
I think bouldering needs a professional approach like that from more people.
Tim
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Do they change clothes each time someone has an attempt so as to signify the "designated climber"? Whatever I agree that it's to be applauded.
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Indeed it is a lovely photograph (Kim holds himself beautifully on rock :bow:).
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You guys have been watching too much Life Aquatic.
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thats a dynamite film which i need to watch again.
where is his problem, highball thing?
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For those who haven't seen this on the Yellowslacks thread. 'Miles's Project' at Ravenstones, I get the impression it's an open project.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/383679082_dadc3ba722.jpg)
Certainly seems to fit the bill for this thread!
Saw this last week on a bike ride with my son, looks amazing. Has it been done yet?
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Chalked line a mere E6ish thing I think, must go back and finish it.
But the blank arete to the right, climbed on the left hand side, look very hard indeed. Slightly 'worse than square cut', vertical, perfect hard quarried grit, with no edges to hold the barndoor and not much in the way of smears for the feet either. There is a hold to aim for at the top. With the rocky landing jigged about a bit, and a pile of pads it wouldn't be death but very high. E9 7a/b if possible? If only I could remember where it was... :whistle:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/26053763808_92bc148ef5.jpg)
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Lovely!
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An actual hold?! How previous-generation... ;)
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Some closer pics of The Warp Project if anyone needs it. Sheffside massive pull your skinny fingers out.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhW6PEijvBfpYLlxcw9aDGy4tEIE7H2d0JcXtBWvbGEQNIYL5mrP2cgU-ICsy_KSyVFjH8TXXsjmhxAYLUc4YIB5dvEIHJk3_oT70v3aPvqSd5S0JZApUosqzGvmVcpJ_aePconyXw1lYZguPkl2EoEaKhdBlr6iiKpxdtgPrKbje9dJKwTQ6Q3WW0rDw=s16000)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjEkJE6BNBbH0ZnXWg9IvbAfnTpwCjx99K41bcV75D_6X2aNCyBMZ6S61Q3TgAqmzZaZD4VINaQxSd9MMwuzzM6QvUKkFPiFi_uO0lVBYCjtrr8ospJQVhv1e-stea47InO7HmtccLquiaiWYwFrG4doRQiWNyi2W97MvfLA34EWpiVIeKDgEcRVWLW6w=s16000)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj7jVBG4BKzGX0E1cdwerCj0ZZCwl9nUG0pBVLniVOy3yGxxsO7o8fJ70n4ncnE5bubIlXx-oYqx9W_LHxT63BG6F08uCBJs18d0YHv8ABLoVINKxnbHA7QoLA0hja3ukEdOjjPjLkQxxVYQyyq4ghP1zrsoH1mXomyboAzpEVtGlgqesxjKoThif-iWQ=s16000)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgn4RttP0Cqxo61Bm4AfEC1kyjxPPIw5D7bVGwEAbmtZ315e_gjlUowfPf1ICfqSmdDqmv1KUNqsOsBWS3lc2GWSTsXv7372P9HN5YuJszGqgSzhAnQ5aKhJoLRyTnKCXhWSfb7foWkVDMc4UkDVoI8rKP04GXyX6OtF5XwU3vHRidaVXp5l9eFvgHr3Q=s16000)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgsowIJBPK5B5fZYaeGQ7FKnuAxPekNtJLt7oajBDV2nRfdNL-pz3KvbP4p-rbp0j4kbuMdhjvczwQI5WNUE3JZFQaCavOTWzJ4jRTgbDVrA7ZV21-nm4PoAeN_TSHQX0lLsTYM0t69Zq59QwgmtREHGXUtuiTP9M0u4oqzNrjAB-lyhhv_iGrm-5BHKA=s16000)
Landing might need a bit of "creativity"....good jug rail on the right to start, and then...... :-\
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Where’s that Fiend?
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It's the thing on the separate buttress below Ravenstones, Chew Valley, that's quote a few posts up by Jim. Aka too hard for Miles Gibson :-\
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Yeah, but what’s he done on grit?
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Quite a few unrepeated things at major crags :yes:
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Thread resurrection.
Was out for a walk last night and walked passed that big slab/arete at the LHS of Millstone.
Looked flippin amazing in the evening sun last night.
Has it been done yet? It seems to have holds and everything. I know its been looked at by the great and the good. But then I'd have thought the next gen super wads, Ned/Jim etc would have had a pop too.
Is it just actually impossible?
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Some closer pics of The Warp Project if anyone needs it. Sheffside massive pull your skinny fingers out.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhW6PEijvBfpYLlxcw9aDGy4tEIE7H2d0JcXtBWvbGEQNIYL5mrP2cgU-ICsy_KSyVFjH8TXXsjmhxAYLUc4YIB5dvEIHJk3_oT70v3aPvqSd5S0JZApUosqzGvmVcpJ_aePconyXw1lYZguPkl2EoEaKhdBlr6iiKpxdtgPrKbje9dJKwTQ6Q3WW0rDw=s16000)
I wouldn't mind having a look at this if anyone else was interested.
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Thread resurrection.
Was out for a walk last night and walked passed that big slab/arete at the LHS of Millstone.
Looked flippin amazing in the evening sun last night.
Has it been done yet? It seems to have holds and everything. I know its been looked at by the great and the good. But then I'd have thought the next gen super wads, Ned/Jim etc would have had a pop too.
Is it just actually impossible?
Is there a picture of this? I can't really remember if I've seen it or not, but it sounds stunning
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It’s very obvious as you drive up Ringinglow road, at the far end of Millstone set slightly lower than the rest of the quarry.
Arête definitely goes, the face is very very blank…
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In an act detached from any measure of realism, I abseiled down that once. Besides it being obviously far far too hard for me, I remember thinking the rock wasn't especially pleasant, maybe that's why it's not been done? Then again...
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Has anyone tried the tank dyno at wimberry in the last few years (decades?). Looks pretty doable but clearly it’s not that easy. As I understand it’s staying on the top hold rather than the distance which is the challenge. But I may be wrong. I honestly don’t remember ever hearing of someone actually properly trying it. It just seems to have been a project forever.
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Has anyone tried the tank dyno at wimberry in the last few years (decades?). Looks pretty doable but clearly it’s not that easy. As I understand it’s staying on the top hold rather than the distance which is the challenge. But I may be wrong. I honestly don’t remember ever hearing of someone actually properly trying it. It just seems to have been a project forever.
Didn't Will Atkinson do that ages ago?
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Has anyone tried the tank dyno at wimberry in the last few years (decades?). Looks pretty doable but clearly it’s not that easy. As I understand it’s staying on the top hold rather than the distance which is the challenge. But I may be wrong. I honestly don’t remember ever hearing of someone actually properly trying it. It just seems to have been a project forever.
Didn't Will Atkinson do that ages ago?
I’ve no idea! Did he?
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The Millstone arete is an excellent line on some of the best quarried grit there is. Feels like it should be possible with some lateral thinking on sequence. The arete is sharp, but there's nothing very helpful on the face. Since there is nothing to pull on, being strong might not help much. And it is quite high.
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Has anyone tried the tank dyno at wimberry in the last few years (decades?). Looks pretty doable but clearly it’s not that easy. As I understand it’s staying on the top hold rather than the distance which is the challenge. But I may be wrong. I honestly don’t remember ever hearing of someone actually properly trying it. It just seems to have been a project forever.
Didn't Will Atkinson do that ages ago?
No updates one here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=6570.625
Or here: https://ukbouldering.fandom.com/wiki/Dyno_SCIENCE
But there's every chance he did and no-one got round to updating?
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Hmmm. Would be good to know if he did it. Would almost definitely be the hardest thing at wimberry boulders if he did.
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I asked Will if he did it.
“No I didn’t. Had a session on it, felt close distance wise. Got a massive flapper. Never went back.”
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Cheer Cheque. Sounds like it is definitely doable then. Just needs someone really good at dynos with rhino skin.
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I asked Will if he did it.
“No I didn’t. Had a session on it, felt close distance wise. Got a massive flapper. Never went back.”
Haha, he must be getting bored writing to all the folks asking him the same question... :lol: (I just had the same reply)
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Looking through Will's old vids, he certainly had a run of good form. He seems to just fish and play frisbee these days (according to IG).