UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: shark on December 26, 2022, 12:15:24 pm
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Feeling bloated and unfit? You’re not alone.
Worry not as redemption is just around the corner. Get ready to kick start the New Year by joining in with Sharkathon :boxing:
The only rule is 30 mins of any type of exercise for every day of January but feel free to add other aims for the month - going dry, weight loss..
Are you in?
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I'm in. Going dry too. Let's do it :boxing:
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Dry for me too as usual. Aim to get down to 11.5- currently very heavy for me at 11.12
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:goodidea:
I'm in, would like to get down to 62kg
Would like to improve my running
Climbing goals are generally around just getting some stamina back.
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I'm in.
I want to weigh less than a car and do some climbing
I'll get some measuring done at the start of Sharkathon
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Injured in multiple dimensions but keen to regain some control so will join for daily rehab discipline and over eating confessional.
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In - need to make the rehab stick and get back to something resembling training.
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In; will be mostly dog walking but should be able to get some climbing specific stuff in there too!
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In, of course.
Main challenge for me is motivation on 12hr work days, hopefully some 5k runs and fingerboarding will be time efficient enough. Weight is fine atm, just maintenance. Going to enjoy doing no planks...
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I’m in.
Signed up for the trigger on the 8th so I might need a free pass for the 9th…
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I'm aiming high and rebelliously - aiming for 30mins physical FUN (and/or ENJOYMENT or SATISFACTION) per day. Completely contrary to the spirit of Sharkathon I know :icon_321:
Still not looked into venal surgery not liposuction so the hallowed depths of 11:13 stone ain't happening tho.
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Yea count me in... 1st might be a struggle as it's me birthday (and stupid NYE) but the dog still needs walking... Then got a cottage up near Scarbados from the 2nd for a few days so gonna brave the north sea - should be a good start!
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Are we going to have a standard unit of mass this year?
Kilo, pound, stone, car, bag of sugar?
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I'm in, I'm flying to the Alps 1 Feb. so will go dry for the month (might have a wake for a friend :(, but that doesn't count). And cut right back on sweets and chocs (none would be unrealistic). Get a solid block of running in and try get 100km done.
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Happy birthday Duncan.
Yesterday tipped the scales at 167.2lbs or 75.8 bags of sugar or 0.08% of a Lotus Elise.
Enjoyed many bottles of wine and outstanding meals over the last few weeks but now syked to get back in shape.
Not eaten today yet. Max hangs session when I get back home later.
Edit: that should be 169.2lbs
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Yesterday tipped the scales at 167.2lbs or 75.8 bags of sugar or 0.08% of a Lotus Elise.
Hope you’ve not been doing any accounting over the festive period 😂
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No scales to hand, but let’s just assume there is a considerable amount of weight that needs to go.
Day 1 - Some “easy” climbing at Can Torxa. Managed to pull off a chossy flake in the classic 6a corner and nearly hit the ground. Had another go and got to the top, albeit with some rests. Mentally and physically battered. Will go for a walk tomorrow!
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Day 1
215lb (better than expected).
3 hour family walk around various West Sheffield woods. Nice to see plenty of jays out.
I've had near constant colds since second week in November. I would like it to stop now.
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A dehydrated 77kg
1. 40 min walk. Was psyched for more but nausea prevented. Better than nowt!
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Scales at 14st 8 this morning heaviest ever. Due to events over Xmas period, I've not felt I want to run since the 20th and barely done any walking, been eating and drinking. Last drink was at 12:30 last night, will be dry now until Feb (except exceptional circumstance).
(31st) Bouldered at the wall. Didn't feel up to it, but mate was up visiting from England so met up, actually had an ok session and a good catch up.
1st - Afternoon 2 hr / 7.5km walk up snowy Cairn Mon Earn. Fortunately forecast was spot on, and we had an inversion and great sunset. 5km run at home. Some kettlebells in front of TV.
Good luck 'thonners. and Happy Birthday.
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Day 1: sleep deprived but surprisingly not hungover, just generally neglected my body over the last month or so with lots of stress and booze and not as much self care and vegetables as I should resulting in me lurching from one lurgy to the next.
Heavy - will weigh in the morning.
4.8 mile walk with the family which would have been a pootle but carrying a 14 kilo child for approximately half of it made it feel like a good workout.
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Day 2:
68.4 kilos - roughly 4 kilos over what is easily normal for me (outside of pregnancy) and 6 kilos over where I would like to be. There's definitely a paunch!
3 hours family mountain biking which involved running up and down hills repeatedly whilst pushing/holding on to small person as well as riding myself and a good fall whilst I was coming down a steep bit - shoulder felt pretty sore after but hopefully it will be ok by the morning.
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Day 2
Cliff for 3 hours. Highlight was repeating pebble wall for the first time in a decade, and si's arete in a handful of goes.
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1
Between night shifts, slept all day, felt like crap, and failed at the first hurdle. Managed a bit of planking, dishes, press ups and pull ups but nothing like enough to count .
2
1 hr bouldering plus cycling to and from.
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Day 2
2.5 hours surfskating the bowl at The House with the lad. Coughing my lungs up at the end of every run. Only us in the bowl - scooter kids occasionally appeared at the edge, but didn't get in. Ace.
Looked at the weather forecast and learned that rain will resume tomorrow, so headed out to Tesco park and ride car park in the evening for some flat land fun on the surfskates. The lad and I did 40 minutes worth of laps with some big low carves thrown in when my legs allowed. Now feel that I have overdone it.
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Day 1 - incredibly fucked from a new years party that ended at 8am but did do 30 mins of yoga in the evening
Day 2 - couple hours trying hard on Definitive 5.12 in Burbage North. Resisted us but all moves two overlapping links etc etc etc. Evening had an hour on the board and benched warmup 5x5, then overhead squats 3x5
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1 - hours brisk walk with dog and gaggle of teenagers.
2 - 10 mile trail run around Padley, Burbage, Stanage. Crisp morning, lovely.
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Cheers guys - HNY Y'all!
1. Dancing til 6am (loosley counted as 30mins exercise)
2. Surfing @ Cayton - 1.5hrs
3. Hour yomp around Pickering - Found an old disused quarry, chossy hell hole - Interesting tho.
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Day 3:
20 minutes proper strength rehap on my shoulder with a bit of core thrown in for good measure.
30 minutes on fingerboard. Can't hang on my shoulder without taking some weight but did a load of pull up and finger jug hang sets.
Will stretch later and whilst I know stretching is contentious in sharkathon when it's on a knackered shoulder and hurts like hell I'm taking it!
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Day 3
Easy auto belay routes in between belaying the middle child.
Cough has improved, but can't get my temperature right.
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Day 3 - two hours at the Hanger
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In - need to make the rehab stick and get back to something resembling training.
31st - good wall session, ticked some projects
1st - leg rehab and stretching
2nd - glorious winter sunshine on Portland. A handful of routes to 6b+ and a general family faff day.
3rd - inset day for the lad so I took the day off and we went to the wall - another good session, off the last move of a project.
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3
20 min fingerboarding, 30 min circuits
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Aiming for Sharkathlon + Dry Jan combo
1. Not very much. NYE recovery.
2. 1hr swimming with kids
3. Rehab at wall + easy circuit
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3. FB pick ups and some light core. Tweaked my shoulder Monday so avoided board.
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1st - Afternoon 2 hr / 7.5km walk up snowy Cairn Mon Earn. Fortunately forecast was spot on, and we had an inversion and great sunset. 5km run at home. Some kettlebells in front of TV.
2nd 15km coastal family walk in glorious sun. Near rebellion when promised coffee shop stop had closed already. Kettlebells eve.
3rd - 6km run /33 min run.
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I'm in for this January.
1st: 30 mins bodyweight exercises (push-ups, squats etc.) and stretching.
2nd: Board session.
3rd: 45 mins yoga.
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1st. Woke to the glorious inevitable tragedy that will be 2023, a positive thought about getting out and exercising hit me out of the blue and nearly floored me, worry not i extinguished this by an early shot of "Vodbeena" and sinking into the death spiral of trolling far right conservative forums guised as an obsessed angry CrossFit feminist called Nigel{pronounced Njel}.
2nd. Woke{again}, had a nightmare about being young and full of hope so spent the day laying in my own filth and "Pullin the Fuckin Heed aff it".
3rd. Woken by the Polis, Neighbours are complaining about the smell{again}
4th. Woke{again}, had a nightmare about being old and cynical so spent the day laying in my own filth and "Pullin the Fuckin Heed aff it".
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2 days out of 4 ain't bad
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only if it was 30 mins each though.
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1- dog walk
2- pickups, pressups, pullups
3- depot; horrifically weak.
4- dog walk, probably some pickups later
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only if it was 30 mins each though.
It sounds like 30 mins doesn't even begin to cover this marathon beat off session
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Haven't yet decided if I'm fully in or not.... Shocking state of indecision, but 1-9 Jan should be easy enough.
1. Easy bolt clipping at Sella, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast.
2. Easy bolt clipping at Lliber, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast.
3. Easy bolt clipping at Garx, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast.
4. Easy bolt clipping at Cabeconet, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast. Bolt to bolted nice 7b+ and lead a 6c. Tried a savage and ugly 7a+ that had a crux as hard as many 7c's to get the draws back for mates. Finger steadily knitting back together.
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4
5k run
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1. FUN - some 6b+s at Los Canadas (plus some other routes and attempts)
2. FUN - a nice 6a+ warm-up at Guaria (plus a 6b, 95% of a 6b+, and some solid walking)
3. FUN - none // EXERCISE - 30 mins trotting around Aeropuerto Tenerife Sur
4. FUN - some blacks at Awesome Walls bouldering.
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Day 4
Cough is much improved. Sinus pain is off the scale. Couldn't face cycling to work, so drove in for a change.
Took it steady at work. Did 4 hours steady walking, lots of talking, probably only 8 miles. That will have to do for today's exercise.
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4. Couple of hours at the works doing mid level stuff. Benched, 40x20, 60x8, 70x5x5.
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4. Light mobility stuff for about 40 mins.
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3 - lunch walk
4 - lunch walk
Not a great couple of days, work taking up too much time.
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Day 4:
Made the most of the last day of the hols and took eldest child up a hill. 2.5hrs, 8.6k.
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The days are short, the weather is crap and the new dog keeps shitting on the carpet. Sharkathon is the light in dark places, when all other lights go out.
1. Weighted deadhangs
2. Soloing at Stanage
3. Hard leading session at the Foundry main wall
4. Easy autobelay at the Foundry Furnace
5. Just starting a deadhang session
Lost a few of pounds.
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The days are short, the weather is crap and the new dog keeps shitting on the carpet. Sharkathon is the light in dark places, when all other lights go out.
1. Weighted deadhangs
2. Soloing at Stanage
3. Hard leading session at the Foundry main wall
4. Easy autobelay at the Foundry Furnace
5. Just starting a deadhang session
Lost a few of pounds.
Harken thee all and gather to hear the Lords words spoken wisely through our brother the Very Rev Sharkey.
1. Weighted by our sins we hangith much{well for 7 seconds anyway}.
2. Through Solotute we commune with God.
3. We must Lead so they can follow, and those who follow shall then Lead so the Leader is then the follower...eh?
4. When that day arriveith all shall face the Furnace and rejoice at its cleansing flame.
On the 5th day our Lord sent his son and he did Crimp the Shit out of it, and he sayith PAAASAAAT, and God smiled.
Sorry Shark, i couldn't resist :P
I do think that this thread is great :)
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5
fingerboarding and elbow rehab exercises (which involve an annoying amount of planking, something I was hoping to do less of this year!)
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5. 10km strolling round Alicante. Scraping the barrel already, but it was a rest day. Stitches out today!
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Day 5
another day of sinus pain and suffering
probably walked around 10 miles
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Day 5:
20 minute walk
40 minutes being beaten up/worked by the physio following which I can hang without taking any weight off.
50 minutes strength work:
- pull ups
- lock offs
- leg raises (not great as stability in my shoulder isn't good)
- hangs on big campus rung
- band work
- plank (20 seconds)
- press ups (much improved)
- stretches
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5.
Bit of shoulder mobility, some pickups (back 3 are ready for some gainz!), and a stretch. Lazy but tweaky shoulder and it's too filthy for me to get running psyche. For approx 1 episode of apprentice.
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Day 4 - Long Warmup inc. lots of shoulder conditioning and Moonboard session 1.5hrs
Day 5 - Bouldering with daughter @ the Hangar - Tried hard 1.5hrs
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Day 6:
4k of walking, sometimes slow and pushing a small person up the hill on their bike, sometimes sprinting down the hill to keep up.
4.2k run in 30 minutes - I set out with the deliberate intention of running slow but genuinely don't think I could have gone any quicker!
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Day 6. Enduro arm melter at Mas de la Penya. 6b (slipped off...first time I've failed on a 6b in centuries), then a 35m 7a (Apocalypse Please) followed by a shorter and punchier 7a Demoliciones Bin Laden which require more digging deep than I usually hope for on a 7a o/s. Finished with a 6b+/c to get the draws back for Bella when there was a stopper reachy move. "Only" 110m of climbing, but I was on the wall about 2+ hours!
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Walked 12 miles
3 sets of 5 pull-ups
3 sets of 10 press-ups
Sick and tired of being sick and tired
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6
1.5 hrs bouldering at the wall
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Sick and tired of being sick and tired
Not taking a single rest day for a whole month should sort that out.
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Sick and tired of being sick and tired
Not taking a single rest day for a whole month should sort that out.
A hard day for Chuck Norris is a rest day for Lagerstarfish
(Cough)
(Gasp)
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4 - more weights, including dumbell flys. Was going to run, but weather rank, and throat a bit sore
5 - DOMS from above Flys. First bit of core in ages.
6 - 30 min walk, a but more weight training, a light bit of fingerboarding,
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5 - Climbing at The Works for a couple of hours
6 - another brisk walk day…
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Disappointing lack of 400s so far Nik
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4- did some back 2 pickups. Still had some horrific forearms DOMs from wall session.
5- dog walk
6 - dog walk
7- ideally do some more pickups later. DOMs have finally gone at least. Weighed in light at start of month after a few weeks of absolutely no climbing, so suspect all my muscle mass (such as it is) has withered away.
Motivation at rock bottom due to appalling weather (surely the reservoirs are full now?!) and dog disturbing sleep routine through barking. Hopefully he settles down soon.
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6: 30+ mins dog walk, shoulder conditioning, press ups and planks....
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Thursday - 30 mins yoga
Friday - 2 hours coaching session, 1 hr board session
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7
5k run
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Day 7
Wasn't confident that if I cycled to work, I would be able to cycle home again, so drove again.
Took it steady at work, so probably walked 8 miles.
After tea - 2 hour surfskate bowl session at The House. Had it to ourselves. Ace. I made sure I finished each run as soon as breathing got hard or legs started to burn.
Still coughing and snotting, but loads better. Only used one Sudafed all day (two half pills).
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Had a bouldering session today. Lot of footwork stuff and then tried moderately hard on something, felt my right shoulder give a little doing a gaston move. Didn't hurt so much as suddenly drop out of position, careful movement and testing makes me think a minor rotator cuff tweak. Wisely I stopped immediately and I'm going to take a rest from anything shoulder-y for a couple of days, see how it goes, but I don't think will be too much trouble.
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That's a bit shit Wellsy, Gaston's have fucked me a few times.
6. 7k steps and a short swim in the med, followed by a sprint up the stairs in an impromptu silly race. We all felt trashed yesterday so decided we needed another rest day from climbing to make the most of the last 2 climbing days.
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Day 7:
1hr 40 indoor bouldering - actually felt something like decent again and able to try hard.
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That's a bit shit Wellsy, Gaston's have fucked me a few times.
Cheers. Reckon it'll be fine, bit annoying, we'll see how I feel tomorrow.
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5. nothing at all
6. FUN - a few nice Oranges / Blacks at Freeklime // EXERCISE - the rest of the warm-ups at Freeklime
7. FUN - single arm pulldown rehab bit of gym session + a load of stretching I didn't want to finish // EXERCISE - the rest of the gym session.
8. FUN - some knacky thin problems at Rockover // EXERCISE - get burnt off by mrjonathonr on the rest of the problems.
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8
2 hrs bouldering
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Day 8
Sawed and chopped wood for an hour or so. Stacked it in my log store at the front of the house to torment the local Guardian reading asthmatics.
Thought about local pollution and carbon issues in the context of my enjoyment of setting fire to stuff and saving money. This was more effort than I was expecting.
Auto belay session at The Foundry. Seems that only my forearms were exercised, if the data received by my brain was complete.
I noticed that Ste Mac is fitter than I am
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Day 8, careful yoga for 30 mins. Definitely a rotator cuff injury but after going through all the testing movements not a bad one I think. I'll be cautious with everything for a while though. Serves me right for trying Oranges at the works
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31st - good wall session, ticked some projects
1st - leg rehab and stretching
2nd - glorious winter sunshine on Portland. A handful of routes to 6b+ and a general family faff day.
3rd - inset day for the lad so I took the day off and we went to the wall - another good session, off the last move of a project.
4th - back to work, 3.5 mile round trip walk and rows and pushups in the evening
5th - 4 mile round trip to work via nursery, evening stretching
6th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
7th - busy day out with the kids, walking carrying lugging etc. Then a few sets of pushups, bodyweight squats and some stretching
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Day 7. Sliced finger AND arms recovered enough for a decent crag session at Cabeconet - 6c+ onsight, 7b+ 1st RP after bolt to bolt the other day, 7a o/s and then another lap on the 7a to get some photos of mates on the 7b+. OH rp'd a 6c+ as her second proper redpoint (after her first 6b+ earlier in the week), with only one top-rope go and got it clean first go. Well psyched! Finger almost recovered.
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Day 8:
Another indoor bouldering session, 1 hr 30 today, really enjoyed it.
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Day 7. Sliced finger AND arms recovered enough for a decent crag session at Cabeconet - 6c+ onsight, 7b+ 1st RP after bolt to bolt the other day, 7a o/s and then another lap on the 7a to get some photos of mates on the 7b+. OH rp'd a 6c+ as her second proper redpoint (after her first 6b+ earlier in the week), with only one top-rope go and got it clean first go. Well psyched! Finger almost recovered.
I'm a day out of sync....
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6. Shoulder stuff and stretching.
7. About 30 min walk (weak!)
8. Cliff easy cliff boulders up to about 6A and a couple of <S routes, then about 8-10 indoor routes up to 6c (for the first time in over a year!). Pleasant, the bolts are so close together. Shoulder still feels below average but enjoyed both indoors and out.
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4 - more weights, including dumbell flys. Was going to run, but weather rank, and throat a bit sore
5 - DOMS from above Flys. First bit of core in ages.
6 - 30 min walk, a but more weight training, a light bit of fingerboarding,
7 - wall session. Both kids so happy to mess about on autobelays and bouldering, had a fairly decent session, but twanged a bicep tendon which feels a bit tweaky now.
8th - run - 11 km. Good to get a decent length run, but was either sweaty or freezing depending on if in the wind or not.
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1. Weighted deadhangs
2. Soloing at Stanage
3. Hard leading session at the Foundry main wall
4. Easy autobelay at the Foundry Furnace
5. Just starting a deadhang session
7. Tor. Bens
8.Systems board. Weights
9.First walk in Peak with Jess. Exhausting battle of wills
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I will not do 30 min of exercise daily, obviously. But I have cut out all wine, regardless of how good. This does not seem to be enough, and will cut out all snacking the rest of the month. So if I appear really irritable and rude in online posts you know why; not that diet is an excuse for being an asshole — but apologies in advance anyway.
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2 - Belaying at Laboratory, went for a few little walks
3 - Ditto
4 - Very sleepy yoga following drive home
5 - Wall
6 - Soggy walk and a bit of stretching
7 - Wall
8 - 40 min run and some weights
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7. 1hr dog walk and some pullups, typwriters and levers on the exercise bars at the top of Meersbrook park (20mins)...
8. Van in for MOT so walked to the station (25mins) followed by 5 miles or so around Padley Gorge and Longshaw, walk to Hangar from the station (15mins), 2hrs bouldering, lift to AW for 1.5hrs fingerboarding, aerocap sets and leading... Phew!
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9
Fail, and not even a 12 hr shift to blame. Did my elbow rehab but that's it
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Day 9:
68 kilos - heading in the right direction.
Feeling battered after the last week. A 30 minute walk this morning and a 20 minute walk this afternoon, both of which were pushing/chasing small person on a bike. Neither of which were as knackering as going round IKEA with said toddler.
Light shoulder rehab exercises.
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Day 9. 30 minz of shoulder tingz. Better than nowt.... Please probably...
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Day 9
I seem to have lost 2 or 3 lb. Yes!
Weighing in at 212 and 213 lb this morning.
40 mins mobility exercises relating to surfskate and snowboarding. I am glad that there was nobody there to see. Useless body.
Still not cycling due to being soft. I had the time available, so walked to work. Total of 5 hours walking.
Some worrying stabbing pains in the ball of my right foot. Arthritis type of feel. Hoping it isn't gout returning. Ate some out of date colchicine just in case.
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Try rolling it on a frozen 2l bottle of water lagers. Or a cricket or lacrosse ball or similar. I have one of these under my desk https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/massage-ball/_/R-p-307501?mc=8544539&c=GREEN which i use daily. Except mine is a now a manky grey due to sweaty sock cheese!
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7 - mono pickups benchmarking. Tweaky and quite time consuming. Not sure I'll bother with these.
8 - dismantled a friend's board in the pissing rain.
9 - front 2 pickups. Improved PB and got up to 25kg. Moderate bicep curls.
will try and do back 2 pickups later I think. This fucking weather!
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4th: Bouldering session at the wall.
5th: 45 mins yoga.
6th: 30 mins bodyweight exercises (push-ups, squats, ab-wheel etc.) and stretching.
7th: 45 mins yoga.
8th: 45 mins yoga.
9th: 1 hour walking. 30 mins bodyweight exercises (push-ups, squats, ab-wheel etc.) and stretching.
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9: Warmup (5 mins on rowing machine, bounces and mini pull-ups on fingerboard), stabilizer conditioning, scapular pull-ups, continuity (ARC?) 2 x 10 minutes continuous climbing @ F6a, Active hip mobility - side lunges, horse squats, front split pulses.... Nice active recovery session.
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Haven't yet decided if I'm fully in or not.... Shocking state of indecision, but 1-9 Jan should be easy enough.
1. Easy bolt clipping at Sella, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast.
2. Easy bolt clipping at Lliber, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast.
3. Easy bolt clipping at Garx, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast.
4. Easy bolt clipping at Cabeconet, avoiding using my LH index finger... AKA becoming back 3 Enduro beast. Bolt to bolted nice 7b+ and lead a 6c. Tried a savage and ugly 7a+ that had a crux as hard as many 7c's to get the draws back for mates. Finger steadily knitting back together.
5. 10km strolling round Alicante. Scraping the barrel already, but it was a rest day. Stitches out today!
6. Enduro arm melter at Mas de la Penya. 6b (slipped off...first time I've failed on a 6b in centuries), then a 35m 7a (Apocalypse Please) followed by a shorter and punchier 7a Demoliciones Bin Laden which require more digging deep than I usually hope for on a 7a o/s (realised this was due to not being fully recovered). Finished with a 6b+/c to get the draws back for Bella when there was a stopper reachy move. "Only" 110m of climbing, but I was on the wall about 2+ hours!
7. 7k steps and a short swim in the med, followed by a sprint up the stairs in an impromptu silly race. We all felt trashed yesterday so decided we needed another rest day from climbing to make the most of the last 2 climbing days.
8. Back to Cabeconet. 6a+ then 6c+ for warm ups (6c+ felt v. relaxed, so clearly more recovered now) and decided to have a "proper" go on Viaje de la Locura, 7b+ putting the clips in (until Kev swung across form the adjacent route while I was on the sit down rest and stuck them in the top). Got it clean without too much of a fight - very nice feeling to be climbing wall again and not have lost a finger! Finished with a 7a o/s and a second lap on it to take photos of Sally on Viaje.
9. Final day at Gaudelest. Not the best crag, and o/h had used up all her powers (physical and mental) on her first 6c+ redpoint yest, so we did 6a then a 3 pitch route.
Day 10 - home.... tired... aim to do 30 mins yoga later.
9,
Thought I looked a bit leaner after the 10 day trip...scales say otherwise, still the heaviest I've ever been at 81.5kg :ohmy:
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It's all scar tissue in your healing finger wound.
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Day 10
auto belay routes in between belaying the middle child at The Foundry
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10
2 hrs indoor bouldering
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Day 10
Caving trip for couple of ours off piste in stump cross. Fairly chill but nice to get underground.
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15 minutes shoulder rehab as a warm up to an hour of indoor bouldering. Shoulder felt tweaky so did LOTS of easy volume. Little bit of stretching at the end.
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9th - 10 km run, some core later
10th - not a lot, day taken up by funeral and postponed Xmas concert, managed 2 x 10 min walks and a bit of core work. Applying for a day pass due to accumulated credit.
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10th - not a lot, day taken up by funeral and postponed Xmas concert, managed 2 x 10 min walks and a bit of core work. Applying for a day pass due to accumulated credit.
Sorry to hear that Chris. We had an early flight home and it was Ryanair, so I'm putting in a note of extraneous circumstances - Ryanair stole my motivation... (also needed a rest day)
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10: Warmup 20mins (rowing machine, bounces and mini pull-ups on fingerboard, stabilizer conditioning). Board 10's on 25 degree Moonboard... 10 problems, 5 at flash grade, 5 at max (not that much harder on the MB tbh) - 4 tries each and 3 mins rest between problems... Annihilated! 10 mins rest then 3 x 30s density hangs @ 70%.... Bring on the rest day (active rest of course - might try running or break out the turbo!)...
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Sorry to hear that Chris.
Cheers Ali, late 40s and healthy, sudden heart attack just before Xmas, left wife and 3 kids ages 8-13. Known him for nearly 14 years, surfing in Aberdeen won't be same without him.
We had an early flight home and it was Ryanair
Sorry to hear that it was Ryanair :)
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Aw man, that's tough Chris, and scary! Time for a commemoration surf.
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A load of friends and family are planning a paddle out at Philorth when the weather is warmer. Last place we were in the water together.
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Wow Chris, I'm sorry you are all going through that - certainly a reminder to crack on with life.
I'm wrecked today, aches and pains all over the place and my shoulder is more sore than it has been for a good while, maybe I have overdone it.
However, I forced myself out of the office at lunch for a 40 minute walk in the pissibg rain.
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8 - EXERCISE - gym session (focusing more on speed than weight, still low reps tho), and stretching.
9 - FUN - various boulder problems and a couple of tricky routes at Summit UP
10 - EXERCISE - absolutely bare minimum of 40mins walk in the pissing rain, rest of me felt like it needed a rest.
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Day 11
2 hours surfskating in the bowl at The House - loads of fun
Had the house (the family home, not the skate park) to myself before the kids got back from school, so had a go at making mobility exercises fun whilst cooking tea. Floor based stuff doesn't always work because I can't bend my toes without risking hurting the joints. So, I decided to do standing up exaggerated and slowed down versions of the moves and positions I use in surfskating. Whacked on Cascada "Every Time We Touch" on repeat - loud, with extra base. When the fast booming bits came on I introduced hakken style high stomping, foot taps and high kicks with clapping under the leg (hamstring mobility, obvs). This turned out to be a lot of fun - possibly enhanced by imagining the horror on Fiend's face at thinking about this activity (and track). 15 minutes well spent.
After tea, the lad wanted to skate and this was the only evening I am free this week, so back to the bowl at The House for another 2 hours. Kids aren't allowed in the concrete bowl unsupervised, so I had to go in there with him. I worked on redpointing a new line - short runs in between long rests. Fun
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Absolute banger of a tune that one
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Day 11. 30 mins walk. The min for sure.
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Absolute banger of a tune that one
Sound of The North
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Dear fucking god my EARS.
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Dear fucking god my EARS.
;D
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Day 12:
Bucket loads of walking (of course some of it in the pissing rain).
Was going to do some strength stuff tonight but I'm genuinely worried that I've fucked my shoulder again - it hurts to drive again and I can't pull the boot lid down again.
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Day 12
3 x 10 mins continuous movement on my vertical board in the garage under the steady guidance of Sven Vath's Six in the Mix
40 mins cycling
5 hours walking
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I'm genuinely worried that I've fucked my shoulder again - it hurts to drive again and I can't pull the boot lid down again.
Not good. Is it more muscular / DOMs or in a specific spot?
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11th - 7km run - hill reps. Some shrugs in the evening
12th - some easy repeaters 4 fingers and back 3 - finger seems to hold up OK. Rows in evening.
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10 - back 2 pickups, improved scores.
11 - long max hangs, first time for ages. Felt hard but doable, definitely less conditions dependent than the short version. 40 pressups.
12 - dog walk and some general maintenance; curls, shoulder shrugs etc.
Forecast suggests rain will abate next week. Finally.
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I'm genuinely worried that I've fucked my shoulder again - it hurts to drive again and I can't pull the boot lid down again.
Not good. Is it more muscular / DOMs or in a specific spot?
It's pain in the joint again which I haven't had for a while. There's a lot of DOMs too so I'm really hopeful that it is just protesting at being used and not damage. The big thing is that I haven't lost any range of motion which is good.
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Sounds tenuously positive, just need to take foot of the gas slightly.
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10.Foundry routes
11.Weighted hangs/pull-ups
12.White Edge/Froggatt round walk with dogs with sun, showers and gales
13.Tor. Disappointing goes on Bens
No alcohol.
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Friday 13th
40 mins cycling
4 hours walking
Lots of standing
Eating loads due to feeling very hungry
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12 About 3 hours of painting walls and ceilings. Non bon for shoulder :chair: Shit show
13 FAIL Went straight from work to packing to a 3 hour drive dinner and sleep. Bad times.
14 spent about an hour walking round and a decent stretching session. Shoulder means I'm not keen to carry a bag or do anything steep. Killer.
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Day 14
40 mins cycle
4 hours walking
tapas, theatre, drinking and chatting with my lovely wife with no kids
Day 15
auto belay routes in between belaying the youngest child - a few moments of feeling like I was moving well despite painful joints
got my arse kicked by a couple of 11 year olds on Mortal Kombat
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31st - good wall session, ticked some projects
1st - leg rehab and stretching
2nd - glorious winter sunshine on Portland. A handful of routes to 6b+ and a general family faff day.
3rd - inset day for the lad so I took the day off and we went to the wall - another good session, off the last move of a project.
4th - back to work, 3.5 mile round trip walk and rows and pushups in the evening
5th - 4 mile round trip to work via nursery, evening stretching
6th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
7th - busy day out with the kids, walking carrying lugging etc. Then a few sets of pushups, bodyweight squats and some stretching
8th - wall, ticked a project. A big family faff trip.
9th - rows and pushups, I think
10th - short fingerboard, I think
11th - about 2 miles to and fro work (a bit of bus assistance due to rain)
12th - rehab, I think
13th - stretching
14th - short fingerboard session
Bumping along, been a hard week, and lack of precision of logging means some of my days may be a bit muddled up.
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Day 13:
40 minute walk, felt like a bit of a fail but I did 13500 steps most of which was round the house packing/doing housework - I was knackered!!
Day 14:
16 miles mountain biking. 2 red routes at a trail centre full pace as no kids - bloody brilliant fun despite the hale. Learnt loads and felt like a made real improvements in my riding. About 3 hours I think, was having too much fun and didn't keep track of the time.
Day 15:
22.5 kilometres, nearly 500m of ascent, 3 hours 40 of mountain biking in the mountains. So much fun, VERY wet and muddy, I now can't walk.
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12 - FUN: a few easy 30' board problems and 8 purples at The Depot // EXERCISE: Rest of the warm-up
13 - FUN: 52 minutes of stretching, plus some light endurance compound lifts (kinda type 2 fun) // EXERCISE: Rest of the gym session.
14 - FUN: falling practise at Awesome Walls, and a couple of black slabs // EXERCISE: Rest of some vert routes
15 - FUN: various mid-grade problems at BUK especially a couple of knacky ones
Elbow a bit more tender after Thursday although that was the hardest session for 6 months maybe. So have dialled it back to mid-range circuits which were working for me.
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15. 40 min womble in the dales. Definitely more calories in than out this weekend.
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16.
30 mins of shoulder mob, stretching and a lil bit of core
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11th - 7km run - hill reps. Some shrugs in the evening
12th - some easy repeaters 4 fingers and back 3 - finger seems to hold up OK. Rows in evening.
13th - Lunchtime board session in garage with mate, actually did OK, and ended up longer than I intended. 9.5km run. Only came close to going A over T on black ice once.
14th - wall session. another OK session, managed a crimp problem and injured finger tolerated it.
15th - spent most of the day sorting garage so treadmill repair guy can get near it, and generally getting house sorted after Xmas. Pretty knackered. Meant to do some weights in front of the TV but fell asleep.
16th - 8km run. Cold but not much ice on pavements. Some kettlebells in the evening. Easy fingerboard at lunch. Finger tolerates short hangs on back 3 now.
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Day 16
40 mins cycle
5 hours walking
Some pull-ups and press-ups
Day 17
Dentist caused painful jaw and neck whilst replacing fillings - I should have warmed up first.
90 minutes surfskating on dryish tarmac listening to frenchcore. Stiff neck led to poor coordination and pulling some muscle or connective thing between my ribs - obviously I tried to ignore this. Had fun.
Autobelay session at The Foundry - rib pain was noticeable when reaching. Footwork was crap. Generally pretty inconsistent.
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17.
3k run to see if it makes the shoulder mad, and a light shoulder/leg stretch.
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17
Ridiculous day at work but just managed to squeeze in a 30 minute brisk walk
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10th: 45 mins yoga.
11th: Lead routes at the wall.
12th: 30 mins bodyweight exercises (push-ups, squats, ab-wheel etc.) and stretching.
13th: 30 mins stretching only.
14th: Bouldering at the wall.
15th: 45 mins yoga.
16th: 1 hour walking. 30 mins bodyweight exercises (push-ups, squats, ab-wheel etc.) and stretching.
17th: 30 mins bodyweight exercises (push-ups, squats, ab-wheel etc.) and stretching.
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14 systems board and foot on campusing. Gainz
15 dog walk
16 attempts on Blind Date. Too warm
17 soloing at Stanage. Too cold
No booze still. Lost 5.4lbs since start of year. 3lbs to go
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Keep at it Sharkathletes. 14 days to go :boxing:
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13- dog walk, prob some general bicep curls/maintenance
14- long max hangs. 9.25kg assist.
15 - session on the 30 board at manc depot. did some 7s and just about kept pace with rob and luke...some stretching
16 - shoulder presses, bicep curls, dog walk
17 - dog walk and half arsed front 2 pickups. new pb but only for 5 seconds rather than 10.
18 - hour at brownstones with the dog. Just some easies but first time bouldering outside in a month!
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16 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum 40 mins light walk.
17 - FUN: vigorous dog rump scratching at various intervals // EXERCISE: Some very easy climbing moves that felt hard and aggravated my elbow.
18 - EXERCISE: 2:10 hours solid walking, which consistent of 2 hours solitary overthinking and sulking about relapsed elbow, terrible climbing standard, lack of fitness, decaying body, and another year starting off at a dogshit standard, and 10 minutes feeling vaguely satisfied I'd done some exercise. 30 mins stretching without as much drama (but a long more grindcore).
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Day 18
40 mins cycle
5 hours walking
Today seems to be Battery Failure Day, so I pushed three cars to get them going.
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18
Hour walk + shoulder mob and stretch.
Allez!
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18
30 minute walk and 1hr 50mins at the wall - steady session at a wall I don't go to very much but I really enjoyed it, great setting and a very friendly bunch of locals.
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17th - lunchtime walk. Bit of fingerboarding, lunchtime walk, some weights. Daughter's swimming cancelled due to weather so no run.
18th - not a whole deal TBH. Was going to go for a walk, but manager came and talked at me for about 20 mins, so missed window to go for a snowy walk. Some dumbell lifts and a bit of fingerboarding later. Was going to run, but pavements are like an ice rink, never seen it like this.
Weight - down 7lbs since the 1st, mileage slightly behind track for 100km in the month, bit not drastically so.
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Day 19
Headache and aching joints increased as the day went on. Drank plenty of water.
Cycle 40 mins
Walk 5 hours
Went to The Foundry only to find that the auto belay devices are missing. Did some fat old man pottering up and down a bouldering wall in between belaying the middle child. Didn't enjoy it.
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Day 19
5k run, running on the flat is very pleasant but probs won't help with mountain days...
Bit of stretching after too.
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Christ I've been busy! Still on it tho!
11: Walk to get daughter from school and walk hound - 45mins
12: Linked boulder session and general bouldering with daughter - 1.5hrs
13: Route pyramid 1/2 session F6b - F7a - 1.5hrs
14: Dog walk in the Peak (and a pint - fuck dry January! :P) - 2hrs
15: Weights and AeroCap 4x4 : F6b - 2hrs+
16: Warmup, ARC session and stretching - 1.5hrs
17: Dog walk - 45mins
18: Warmup, shoulder shrugs, AeroCap - 4x4 @ F6b - 1.5hrs
19: Route pyramids, 8 routes F6a - F7a+ - 3hrs. Bouldering with daughter and friends, a very lacklustre 1.5hrs pottering...
20: 30mins dog walking - Trashed! Need a rest day - elbows are sore and whole body aches!
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Smashing it Duncan!
20
20 min walk and some shoulder mob and stretching.
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Day 20
40 mins cycle
5 hours walking
A few press-ups
Day 21
Couple of hours walking in The Peak looking at cool stuff with the boy in the morning.
Couple of hours easy bouldering on grit in the afternoon.
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19 - 30 minute walk plus some press-ups, pull ups, core exercises and stretch.
20 - an hour of walk/run with the toddler on the bike
21 - feeling mentally really crap but managed to battle with myself and the kids to go out climbing and enjoy the weather - except that we got 15 minutes from home and the car broke down. Went for a local walk for an hour with with the kids then ran 4k in -1 just to try and sort my head out. Husband was a star and managed to get the car fixed so tomorrow we try again....
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19th - bit of fingerboarding, some press ups, some kettlebells. No running , pavements still iced, can't get up the drive.
20th - not a lot. Some pressups, spent most of evening taking apart one small bed and replacing it with a bigger bed. Bloody kids. Tweaked shoulder trying to get mattress up awkward flight of stairs. I think contorted Allen key work didn't help.
21st - wall session. a few new things up, grading a shambles. Managed a prob I've been trying by lanking it, which shoulder didn't like one bit.
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21
Went to shipley glen for a pootle, warmed up on handfull of easies then joined a friend on on monkey business (7A?), and did it fairly quickly. Probably not ideal for the shoulder but great to be out (in the fog), and good to get on this. Meant to get on it ages ago. Yay, rock!
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Day 21...
...Couple of hours easy bouldering on grit in the afternoon.
As far as I can work out, this was my first time on rock in 4 months
My skin seems to agree with this estimate
(https://i.ibb.co/wBkYgdd/IMG-20230121-160824.jpg)
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Stunning pic. I can feel the hot aches from here.
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22 - A DAY OUT CLIMBING!!!! ON ROCK AND EVERYTHING! Even managed to battle the fear of slippy feet and trust the smears once or twice.
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22.
4 km run. Stretching and shoulder mobility. Should have taken it easier at Shipley!
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22 - shoulder a bit fucked from wall session. 13km run while daughter at swimming training, with more vert than my legs like.
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Day 22
couple of hours carrying, sawing and chopping firewood
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31st - good wall session, ticked some projects
1st - leg rehab and stretching
2nd - glorious winter sunshine on Portland. A handful of routes to 6b+ and a general family faff day.
3rd - inset day for the lad so I took the day off and we went to the wall - another good session, off the last move of a project.
4th - back to work, 3.5 mile round trip walk and rows and pushups in the evening
5th - 4 mile round trip to work via nursery, evening stretching
6th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
7th - busy day out with the kids, walking carrying lugging etc. Then a few sets of pushups, bodyweight squats and some stretching
8th - wall, ticked a project. A big family faff trip.
9th - rows and pushups, I think
10th - short fingerboard, I think
11th - about 2 miles to and fro work (a bit of bus assistance due to rain)
12th - rehab, I think
13th - stretching
14th - short fingerboard session
15th - really solid rehab and stretching session
16th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
17th - fingerboard. Managed to get back on the 8mm edges, albeit only at bodyweight (I did get to 4s with bw+6, so actually more promising than I had expected). Off my previous bests by some way (I haven’t weighed myself recently, so uncertain exactly how much), but the recruitment is building back up.
18th - 3.5mile walk to and fro work; MrsAJMs birthday so otherwise nothing
19th - 1.7mile walk to work. Short stretching session in the evening.
20th - short rehab, stretching and pushups session. Varied the hand position on the pushups to try to make them a bit tougher.
21st - walking round durdle door in glorious winter sunshine.
22nd - fingerboard. Bodyweight on the 8mm edges again.
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19 - walking, general maintenance stuff.
20 - few easy problems at scout hut. Pint at packhorse inn (now open again!)
21 - day out at scout. beautiful weather.
22 - dog walk
back on the fingerboarding this week.
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19 - FUN: 52 mins stretching at the gym listening to awesome jungle // EXERCISE: Rest of the gym session.
20 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk.
21 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk in 5-10 min chunks recceing quarries.
22 - EXERCISE: 3 hours freezing cold easy bouldering at Harland Edge. Reinjured already-sensitive elbow on a couple of locky moves. Utterly demoralised as I'd been making progress over December and had been relying on regular and varied wall visits to meet people and have some form of social life.
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I've not been posting much, had other things on my mind. Been training and climbing a lot though, enjoying the board, calisthenics, circuits and the odd bit of grit. Did Jason's Mono last Tuesday, I think probably the hardest move I've ever done outdoors? Anyway was nice.
Yesterday I did a couple of hours of easier bouldering, then 3x10 legs elevated ring rows (slow and controlled, they felt bloody hard), 3x10 wide grip pullups, 3x10 narrow grip pullups.
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19 - FUN: 52 mins stretching at the gym listening to awesome jungle // EXERCISE: Rest of the gym session.
20 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk.
21 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk in 5-10 min chunks recceing quarries.
22 - EXERCISE: 3 hours freezing cold easy bouldering at Harland Edge. Reinjured already-sensitive elbow on a couple of locky moves. Utterly demoralised as I'd been making progress over December and had been relying on regular and varied wall visits to meet people and have some form of social life.
Ah, fucking hell Fiend, that's bollocks. Deepest sympathies from someone who also relies on wall visits for a semblance of a social life (and is currently not making it to the wall because of brain fuckery).
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19 - FUN: 52 mins stretching at the gym listening to awesome jungle // EXERCISE: Rest of the gym session.
20 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk.
21 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk in 5-10 min chunks recceing quarries.
22 - EXERCISE: 3 hours freezing cold easy bouldering at Harland Edge. Reinjured already-sensitive elbow on a couple of locky moves. Utterly demoralised as I'd been making progress over December and had been relying on regular and varied wall visits to meet people and have some form of social life.
Nooooo!!! Truly shit, sorry mate. Fingers crossed it doesn't set you back too far.
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Thanks for the kind words. I was in a pretty bleak state about it last night and that carried over to this morning (propananol for breakfast? why not!). However it does seem to feel not as bad I feared today. It's tweaked and tender but less painful in general movements and has maybe slightly eased off over the day. Still very tentative as it's been such a bugger to get to where it was last month (i.e. progressing) but maybe the setback can be measured in weeks not months??
In my undefence, I wasn't cautious enough yesterday. Although we were taking it easy it was stupidly bloody cold, it took me 45 minutes in a sauna like car before all my toes defrosted, my 7B mate got hot aches on a 5+ and was whimpering like a confused puppy, and then I chose to do a problem, albeit easy, that clearly involved a left arm lock-off, and then do it again to feel less clunky on it. I should have been ruthless with acknowledging the high risk in that situation.
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Yikes Fiend, sounds :wall:
Hopefully, it'll be a question of heeding the message your elbow is giving and it'll settle down in a few days and allow you to resume progressively more challenging climbing? Basically it's saying: 'not ready for this load yet, be patient'.
When I really did my right elbow with golfer's (18 months of joy) what finally fixed it was resuming at a sub warm up level, then upping the ante in tiny baby steps- creeping up on it unawares, you might say- and then it was fine: bit-by-bit.
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It was feckin cold yesterday, my shoulder was not playing well in it too which partially forced me into trusting my feet more.
23
around an hour of walking all of which was pushing/chasing/carrying toddler and bike.
Discovered Sauna Coxey's YouTube vids that she did in lockdown (I'm very late to this party) so killed myself with some core and glute work this evening (that's going to hurt tomorrow!) followed by usual shoulder shite.
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Yikes Fiend, sounds :wall:
Hopefully, it'll be a question of heeding the message your elbow is giving and it'll settle down in a few days and allow you to resume progressively more challenging climbing? Basically it's saying: 'not ready for this load yet, be patient'.
When I really did my right elbow with golfer's (18 months of joy) what finally fixed it was resuming at a sub warm up level, then upping the ante in tiny baby steps- creeping up on it unawares, you might say- and then it was fine: bit-by-bit.
Cheers MrJR. You saw me the other weekend at a good stage - I had been working up with those baby steps for, well, a few months, and over December those steps had allowed me to progress with the loading well: Gradually increasing loading for the same, or usually decreasing, levels of pain. When I reaggravated it on Thu 12th, it was a slightly larger step in loading, but this was following a few sessions (including with you) where I was able to load it to my current (meagre) limit with little aggravation, and even during the Depot session I didn't get much more pain, it was only after that I felt I'd overdone it. I was trying to do exactly the right thing - dropping down quite a bit and resuming back up with steady mileage - but Sunday was just too much with the cold and movement type. Seeing Biscuit tomorrow but I will be aiming to do what I was aiming to do in the previous week - except drop it down MORE and stay more diligent.
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Thanks for the kind words. I was in a pretty bleak state about it last night and that carried over to this morning (propananol for breakfast? why not!). However it does seem to feel not as bad I feared today. It's tweaked and tender but less painful in general movements and has maybe slightly eased off over the day. Still very tentative as it's been such a bugger to get to where it was last month (i.e. progressing) but maybe the setback can be measured in weeks not months??
In my undefence, I wasn't cautious enough yesterday. Although we were taking it easy it was stupidly bloody cold, it took me 45 minutes in a sauna like car before all my toes defrosted, my 7B mate got hot aches on a 5+ and was whimpering like a confused puppy, and then I chose to do a problem, albeit easy, that clearly involved a left arm lock-off, and then do it again to feel less clunky on it. I should have been ruthless with acknowledging the high risk in that situation.
Matt, given you seem to constantly have niggly elbows that seem to flare up at the merest whiff of a strain - have you eve explored there being a pain issue rather than a structural one? Could your elbows be so chronically injured that what you're feeling is some normal level of discomfort, but your pain feedback is going into overload?
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Interested to see what biscuit says. He was a bit more sanguine about re-injuring than i am. Basically said if it feels sore when rehabbing, just back off a little bit and give it a break before carrying on.
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21: Routes @ Horseshoe with GF - Nowt above F6a, nice to be out. Walk along Stanage with hound to watch sunset.
22: Density hangs, stretching and warmup. Board climbing - 10 x board style problems (both MB's were being used so made up my own on the boards @ AW) 6Cish. Moonboard once everyone else had buggered off, flashed a bunch of new problems up to 6B (yea right) 2hrs+ ;D
23: Stretching, stablizer conditioning and yoga - 45mins
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Matt, given you seem to constantly have niggly elbows that seem to flare up at the merest whiff of a strain - have you eve explored there being a pain issue rather than a structural one? Could your elbows be so chronically injured that what you're feeling is some normal level of discomfort, but your pain feedback is going into overload?
I put this to Biscuit today and he agrees there is definitely like to be an issue with that. I'm sure I am quite over-sensitive to the pain given how troublesome it's been, and equally sure that there might be a bit of disconnect between the pain level and the structural damage level. BUT it is the only indicator I have to go on so I don't want to be blase or too casual about it of course!!
Chris, yes you also estimated right there. That is the general strategy. Although I will be erring on the side of caution with the climbing and focusing more on rehab and general conditioning.
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Did you get a chance to listen to the podcast I linked on Mischa's gout thread?
https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m001gj46?partner=uk.co.bbc&origin=share-mobile
If if it's not related - it's an interesting listen.
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23
Walked along a canal for about an hour
24
Walked up a hill in the dark for couple of hours.
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24: 40min dog walk, some pullups and crap levers in the park. Scapular conditioning @ The Hangar: isometric rows, shoulder presses, wide pullups (cut these short as hurt elbow) and y pulls with a theraband, some very easy slab climbing 1hr in total...
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... wide pullups (cut these short as hurt elbow)...
Have you tried doing just the upwards bit then stepping onto a stool (or letting go) rather than lowering down? When my elbows are hurty it is the lowering/eccentric phase that aggravates them. Since you don't do much lowering in climbing is there much need to train this?
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23 - EXERCISE: 2:20 walk which involved less sulking than before but a hideous anti-DVT 200m 45 degree slope // 1 hour gym, mostly light, including 30 mins stretching.
24 - FUN: various techy problems with Biscuit at Rock Over // EXERCISE: 2 hours quarry cleaning and turf hacking.
25 - FUN: 8 vertical reds at The Depot // EXERCISE: rest of Depot warm-ups, 1 hour gym, brief pushing and pulling, inc 30 mins stretching.
Elbow has been feeling better than I feared, although still re-aggravated. Had a good moral support chat with Biscuit who thinks I'm on the right lines with dropping back to easy mileage and keeping up with the rehab. I guesstimate that I've set it back 6 weeks (to when it was plateaued, but before a month of good progress and then 2 weeks of relapse recently). Have been trying to up my exercise to compensate for (permanent?) lack of climbing training.
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24 - 30 minute walk and 1hr 40 mins at the wall.
25 - 30 minutes walk and another session of Shauna coxey videos
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25
6km walk post work walk. Need to get some stretches and shoulder rehab-age done. C'est la vie.
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23 - 8 km run. Slower, mate I was with is out of practice, but a good catch up.
24 - some KBs, bit of light fingerboarding, some pressups. Shoulder getting better.
25 - 7.5km hill reps / 150m vert. Different place to usual (road closures) got more vert in but it felt easier. Some KBs at home
No booze since schools went back.
Ahead on doing 100km in the month
down 5 lbs (not as much as i would have liked but OK)
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18th: Wall session. Tweaked something in my left shoulder.
19th: 30 mins stretching.
20th: 30 mins stretching.
21st: 45 mins yoga.
22nd: Walk with family. 30 mins pushups, squats, ab-wheel etc.
23rd: 1 hour walking. 45 mins yoga.
24th: 30 mins stretching.
25th: 30 mins stretching.
A lot of stretching sessions to take it easy on the shoulder initially, and then pushed for time the last couple of days.
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... wide pullups (cut these short as hurt elbow)...
Have you tried doing just the upwards bit then stepping onto a stool (or letting go) rather than lowering down? When my elbows are hurty it is the lowering/eccentric phase that aggravates them. Since you don't do much lowering in climbing is there much need to train this?
I haven't but will definitely give it a go - bit wary about it really and will probably go see a physio as had a twang while doing some aerocap the other week (extended arm crossing over for a wide pinch - best description would be that it felt like the tendon twanging over the bone)... Ever since it's been tender and felt like golfers but thankfully doesn't seem to hurt when climbing, be getting any worse and is only aggravated by pullups :shrug:
25: Dog walk - 30mins... Warmup: rowing, stabilizer conditioning and fingerboard bunnyhops. Moonboard strength intervals - 3 problems x3 reps each with 3mins rest per rep @ 6Bish (HA!!) + 6 warmups and a few circuits to cool down... 1hr 45mins.
26: Dog walk - 30mins. Yoga, stretching and surf pop up training - 30mins.
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I find the wide pullup good for achey shoulders and the narrow pullup good for achey elbows
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26
Short walk about
27
Shoulder rehab and stretchage
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26: absolute minimum and even that was a struggle, felt rubbish, fighting off the germs so kindly shared by my youngest. 30 minutes walk.
27: an hour of walking, still feeling rubbish.
28: fed up of feeling crap so went for a run. Last two runs I have done my Achilles has played up, first time I have ever had issued there. Definitely not a volume issue, maybe I need new shoes. Add Achilles exercises to the rehab regime.
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I sprained my knee yesterday so it'll be a week or so at least of no falling on it for me. Still though, I can probably get on a small board and do certain moves, and train upper body
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26 - EXERCISE: 3 hours quarry cleaning
27 - EXERCISE: bare minimum 30 minute dog walk. Plus extensive belly stretching with a meal at Manicomio
28 - FUN: Falling practise with duncan // EXERCISE: the routes and some bouldering
29 - FUN: 30 mins of sieging the fuck out of a black slab at Rock Over // EXERCISE: the rest of the session doing some bouldering and wandering around the wall aimlessly wondering why the hell it felt nearly impossible to socialise despite being there for the Greater Manchester Rock Climbing FB group social, despite chatting to the organiser beforehand AND posting in their Whatsapp group, also 30 mins walk to Wetherspoons and back to try to join in the post-climb pub social but then realising I was late and everyone was already in their groups with food on tightly full tables so sacked it off :icon_321:
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28
Stretch and shoulder stuff. Also pancakes.
29
Did a couple of routes on low man in a gale, unjustifiably windy. Put some holds on the board (not exercise, but psyche!) topped off with some evening stretches.
Weight in at 77.5 this morning, so no real change over the month. Not surprising given my diet and lack of big days.
Did build a load of climbing psyche last night though, slate, scrambles, gogarth, Costa Blanca, dollies... Too many places to go!
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26th - 9km run, trying to do a reasonable pace at times.
27th - a bit if weights, but not much.
28th - long wall session. Bit of time on my own while family went bowling. Ended up having a long session and ticking a few things I had struggled with.
29th - sore, especially right shoulder. 20 minute walk, a bit of stretching.
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23 - walking
24 - long max hangs, 8.75kg assist
25 - walking, maintenance
26 - weighted pullups, +25kg x 3, 5 sets. 1 arm hangs on bar. 40 pressups.
27 - doms. walking, stretching
28- drizzly hour at Brownstones. ran a mile back to the car from old trafford in the evening.
29 - long dog walk, stretching.
Glad the month is nearly over. Fingerboarding later today.
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31st - good wall session, ticked some projects
1st - leg rehab and stretching
2nd - glorious winter sunshine on Portland. A handful of routes to 6b+ and a general family faff day.
3rd - inset day for the lad so I took the day off and we went to the wall - another good session, off the last move of a project.
4th - back to work, 3.5 mile round trip walk and rows and pushups in the evening
5th - 4 mile round trip to work via nursery, evening stretching
6th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
7th - busy day out with the kids, walking carrying lugging etc. Then a few sets of pushups, bodyweight squats and some stretching
8th - wall, ticked a project. A big family faff trip.
9th - rows and pushups, I think
10th - short fingerboard, I think
11th - about 2 miles to and fro work (a bit of bus assistance due to rain)
12th - rehab, I think
13th - stretching
14th - short fingerboard session
15th - really solid rehab and stretching session
16th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
17th - fingerboard. Managed to get back on the 8mm edges, albeit only at bodyweight (I did get to 4s with bw+6, so actually more promising than I had expected). Off my previous bests by some way (I haven’t weighed myself recently, so uncertain exactly how much), but the recruitment is building back up.
18th - 3.5mile walk to and fro work; MrsAJMs birthday so otherwise nothing
19th - 1.7mile walk to work. Short stretching session in the evening.
20th - short rehab, stretching and pushups session. Varied the hand position on the pushups to try to make them a bit tougher.
21st - walking round durdle door in glorious winter sunshine.
22nd - fingerboard. Bodyweight on the 8mm edges again.
23rd - Leg rehab session. Everything feeling much better now. Need to try the more climbing specific exercise and maybe look for some more specifically strength focused stuff. And perhaps start actually trying the odd heel out on rock?
24th - stretching
25th - 3.5 miles round trip to work
26th - 4 mile round trip to work and nursery
27th - climbing wall. Got sucked into some projects. Managed a heel hook with no issues! So exciting.
28th - does taking the 2 kids by myself to ikea on a Saturday in the middle of the day count as a workout? It certainly felt like one! I otherwise got distracted and didn’t really do anything else apart from about ten minutes of stretching right before bed.
29th - another strong wall session.
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30
Wheeled someone up a hill on a stretcher. Failed to go for a run due to absent head torch. Token stretch to keep the hip at bay. Hope to have. Play on the board tomorrow to see how the shoulder deals.
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29: 2 hour family walk.
30: 1.30 of walking
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I find the wide pullup good for achey shoulders and the narrow pullup good for achey elbows
Any sort of pullup is a bit hurty right now - bit the bullet and went to see Ozzy John yesterday who did some prodding and an ultrasound scan and has diagnosed a medial tendon strain/tear... Nothing too major but he's recomended dialling it back for a few weeks... Bit of an arse as am in the last 3 weeks of my current training plan and am feeling strong (for me)... Ahh well, have accepted it's 3 weeks of rehab then off to Leonidio, hopefully can just mintain any current gainz and not aggrovate the injury/find it turns into something more long-term...
27: Routes @ AW - 1.5hrs up to F6c - Was cold but felt good when warmed up...
28: Elbow definitely feeling tender after last nights session - Arse! Wheeled out the old push iron.. 1.5hrs cycling around the Peak
29: Elbow not happy - 1.5hrs walking around Lawrencefield, Millstone, Higgar, Owler etc..
30: Physio, diagnosed medial tendon strain/tear, taxman tries to surgically remove all my money.... Bastards! Take dog out, walk for 30mins then go for a pint - Fuck it! Slackest day yet!
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30th - 10.5 km run
31st - if i am lucky i might do a bit of stretching, but will probably just be frantically packing.
Summary - probably score 29/31 if i am being strict.
Aims
No booze since schools went back (even at funeral) - tick
aimed to run 100km run - 105 done
Weight - lost about 7 lbs, not as much as i would like, but not bad.
And now away tomorrow for 5.5 days of sunshine, fresh air, alcohol and things covered in melted cheese.
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30 - max hangs. 8kg assist, think the ceiling is approaching now.
31 - a day at Malham, did a few 7s and replaced the Unjustified belay. Clipsticking up it and yarding on the rope was way harder than any of the climbing I did.
Off skiing on Saturday for a week, thats the crux of the year done.
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Where you away to?
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30 - EXERCISE: 4 hours quarry cleaning.
31 - FUN: Various bouldering moves that were okay for elbow. EXERCISE: 1 hour walk, 1 hour bonus sharkathon-inspired gym session, 40 mins weights (failed on 80 bench and had to roll it down my blubber :'( ) and 30 mins stretching.
(https://www.nhm.ac.uk/content/dam/nhmwww/discover/megalodon/megalodon_warpaint_shutterstock-full-width.jpg.thumb.1160.1160.jpg)
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Realised that I haven't entered details for the last week.
I managed at least 30 mins of exercise each day.
Most importantly, today I went climbing outside and it was ace. Not only that, but I went climbing with another human being, which made it more ace.
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Where you away to?
Les Gets. Fortunately it's snowed in the last few weeks as before it looked like Macclesfield on the webcams.
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messaged you
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I can’t do “proper” Sharkathon as I’m sick and can’t really do exercise, so I set myself my own personal Sharkathon: daily study of Sinhala (my partner’s other language) throughout January. Pleased to report I managed every day but one when I was really tired, have made some good progress and learnt lots of new words and grammar. Chuffed with that.
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I can’t do “proper” Sharkathon as I’m sick and can’t really do exercise, so I set myself my own personal Sharkathon: daily study of Sinhala (my partner’s other language) throughout January. Pleased to report I managed every day but one when I was really tired, have made some good progress and learnt lots of new words and grammar. Chuffed with that.
ah... Sinhala is a diglossia I have been told, so you have to learn two languages for the price of one? Respect.
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Thanks but I don’t go there! I only learn spoken Sinhala as that’s all I need for family events and travel. The written and formal version is really different and much harder, to the point that it sounds like a different language, much more like Hindi. My other half, despite growing up speaking Sinhala at home in the U.K., had to get special tutoring to be able to understand the formal version when she went to school in Sri Lanka. A bit academic for me as I’m at the level of “let’s go to aunties’ house and eat rice and curry” rather than epic poetry.
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Man, Sharkathon feels like it was a bit of a bloodbath this year. How many people fulfilled the criteria and avoided (re)injury? Seems like just Lagers and Spidermonkey.
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I didn’t bother starting as going to have my left hip replaced which happened on January 25th. Although I still only had about 3 days when I did nothing. 2 when I had the flu bug thing that was going round and the other was the day of the op.
Currently 7 days in to rehab program and managed to walk about a mile.
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Hope you recover well webbo. I know it might make you feel old, but my mum had it / them done about 10 years ago, and she was revitalised after the rehab period.
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Chris the problem is that I am old.
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Man, Sharkathon feels like it was a bit of a bloodbath this year. How many people fulfilled the criteria and avoided (re)injury? Seems like just Lagers and Spidermonkey.
I've fulfilled the criteria but def pranged myself like a fucking penis. On the other hand after months of not doing proper weighted pullups and fingerboarding, on Sunday I benchmarked myself.
Weight, 76kgs
5 rep pullup max weight, 28kgs
3 rep pullup max weight, 32kgs
This is a few kgs lower than my peak (which I believe was 33 and 36 maybe, after months of doing nothing else during rehab) but not much lower, which is pleasing.
10 second hang on 20mm, max weight added was 38kgs. I could maybe do more, but I was feeling achey and kept it there. All time max on that edge for that time is 48kgs, again when I peaked after a heavy block.
So a good baseline there imo, something to improve on.
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Chris the problem is that I am old.
Old but still at it. Gives the rest of us some good psyche and inspiration, does me anyway
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This. If I can still kick with the fray like you do at your age I will be delighted.
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I was rather pleased with myself for doing 41 problems on my board the day before my op. Unfortunately I’m going to have to hang to that for the next few months.
I asked the physio doing my post op mobility assessment would I be ok doing some weights in the next week or so. He looked at me like I’d gone mad.
Given I can barely weight the raised toilet seat they gave me to take home with me. I can now see where was coming from :lol:
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Man, Sharkathon feels like it was a bit of a bloodbath this year. How many people fulfilled the criteria and avoided (re)injury? Seems like just Lagers and Spidermonkey.
Yep - Spannered like a good un! I thought the first rule of Sharkathon was: if it hurts keep hammering it til it either stops hurting or you just can't move it anymore??? :lol:
31: Post physio 25-degree Moonboard session - 10+ benchmarks 5+ to 6a+... Now I know this sounds like madness with an elbow issue (even to me - taking into account the above) but the logic came from a Dave Mac article regarding steep boards with golfers and from Ozzy stating that I should try and maintain without aggravating... My last MB session caused no issues whereas a relatively light routes session caused nuff pain (probably due to locking off while clipping)... Ultimately this was a fact-finding exercise (albeit a risky one...) but I'm happy to say that today I feel no adverse effects and if anything it's less tweaky today than yesterday! :2thumbsup:
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31st - good wall session, ticked some projects
1st - leg rehab and stretching
2nd - glorious winter sunshine on Portland. A handful of routes to 6b+ and a general family faff day.
3rd - inset day for the lad so I took the day off and we went to the wall - another good session, off the last move of a project.
4th - back to work, 3.5 mile round trip walk and rows and pushups in the evening
5th - 4 mile round trip to work via nursery, evening stretching
6th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
7th - busy day out with the kids, walking carrying lugging etc. Then a few sets of pushups, bodyweight squats and some stretching
8th - wall, ticked a project. A big family faff trip.
9th - rows and pushups, I think
10th - short fingerboard, I think
11th - about 2 miles to and fro work (a bit of bus assistance due to rain)
12th - rehab, I think
13th - stretching
14th - short fingerboard session
15th - really solid rehab and stretching session
16th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
17th - fingerboard. Managed to get back on the 8mm edges, albeit only at bodyweight (I did get to 4s with bw+6, so actually more promising than I had expected). Off my previous bests by some way (I haven’t weighed myself recently, so uncertain exactly how much), but the recruitment is building back up.
18th - 3.5mile walk to and fro work; MrsAJMs birthday so otherwise nothing
19th - 1.7mile walk to work. Short stretching session in the evening.
20th - short rehab, stretching and pushups session. Varied the hand position on the pushups to try to make them a bit tougher.
21st - walking round durdle door in glorious winter sunshine.
22nd - fingerboard. Bodyweight on the 8mm edges again.
23rd - Leg rehab session. Everything feeling much better now. Need to try the more climbing specific exercise and maybe look for some more specifically strength focused stuff. And perhaps start actually trying the odd heel out on rock?
24th - stretching
25th - 3.5 miles round trip to work
26th - 4 mile round trip to work and nursery
27th - climbing wall. Got sucked into some projects. Managed a heel hook with no issues! So exciting.
28th - does taking the 2 kids by myself to ikea on a Saturday in the middle of the day count as a workout? It certainly felt like one! I otherwise got distracted and didn’t really do anything else apart from about ten minutes of stretching right before bed.
29th - another strong wall session.
30th - stretching
31st - fell at the final hurdle. Didn’t finish work until 10pm and just couldn’t be arsed after that
It wasn’t the best Sharkathon I could have done, a couple of dubious days and ideally I’d have done more than walks to work at times - but it’s been a month of high stress at home and high workload in the office and I did do the regular rehab I wanted to do and I can now heel hook at the wall again and that’s all that really matters.
If I just sort out my shoulder now I’ll be back to full body function again.
Intending to try to keep the regularity of exercise high through February and March and keep the focus on rehab, both continuing to improve the hamstring and also fixing the shoulder. Cheers everyone!
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Man, Sharkathon feels like it was a bit of a bloodbath this year. How many people fulfilled the criteria and avoided (re)injury? Seems like just Lagers and Spidermonkey.
I'm an exercise Trotskyite, on a permanent sharkathon. I usually have some ache or pain but it's almost always possible to do something. Generally the only thing that stops me is a cold (or covid). When the world was taking more care not to spread bugs I managed all 365 days in 2021 and every day of 2020 til mid. December when I got covid. This year, I failed on day 10.
Good luck webbo, not that you need it. If you've walked a mile on post-op. day 7 it's fair to say you're well ahead of most people's recovery timescale!
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Big up all you lot who kept trying! I sacked it off on the 12th, with sleep struggles and work taking a fair bit more energy than normal I was already at 65% ish, and just couldn't face it.
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Man, Sharkathon feels like it was a bit of a bloodbath this year. How many people fulfilled the criteria and avoided (re)injury? Seems like just Lagers and Spidermonkey.
I'm an exercise Trotskyite, on a permanent sharkathon. I usually have some ache or pain but it's almost always possible to do something. Generally the only thing that stops me is a cold (or covid). When the world was taking more care not to spread bugs I managed all 365 days in 2021 and every day of 2020 til mid. December when I got covid. This year, I failed on day 10.
Good luck webbo, not that you need it. If you've walked a mile on post-op. day 7 it's fair to say you're well ahead of most people's recovery timescale!
The only down side to this I seem to have changed my left foot( op side) in to some sort of trotter.
Fortunately it’s not hot or even slightly raised in temperature.
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31: 50 minute walk.
All in all, a bit disappointed I ended up with so many walks in there and not more runs BUT:
- There were plenty of days I would have gladly done fuck all had it not been for Sharkathon.
- it's made me get creative and find stuff to do at home once the kids have gone to bed.
- I learned not to throw myself at EVERYTHING all at the same time, i.e. don't do a massive core, shoulder and leg workout and expect to be able to run the next day - tactics/strategy/pacing are important (especially as I get older).
- I did loose exactly 1 kilo of weight which is good, only 6 to go!
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Well done Sharkathletes
I managed to keep the exercise going with walks but unfortunately dieting and no alcohol went out the window.