UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => board construction FAQs => Topic started by: Bubba on November 09, 2004, 09:40:08 pm
-
what should go in here?
Initial ideas:
- Why is it called campusing? (history re Gullich, etc)
- What are the "regulation" rung sizes and spacing?
- Links to rung suppliers
- Pics of campus boards
- Vids of people campusing
- What is the correct angle for board?
- Campusing techniques / workouts / benefits / dangers
-
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto.htm the campus board bit has loads of info bubbs
as far as what to include i'd go for all the stuff u mentioned minus the pics and vids.
-
Thought i'd get in quickly with the Gresham gurn
(http://lucas.quba.co.uk/OLDRESOURCESplanetfear/climbing/training/photos/campusboard.jpg)
PlanetI'mSoGoddamnExtreme has an article about exercise routines here (http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=206)
-
from Indoorclimbing.com
Who Needs Campusing?
In autumn 1991 the late Wolfgang Gullich redpointed Action Directe, a very steep route with shallow finger pockets. At 8c+ (34?), it was the hardest sport route in the world. Gullich's training for the route: climbing using only one finger of each hand, feet hanging free, on an overhanging ladder of wooden first-joint finger edges. This was the original campus board (named for its location in the Campus Gym at Nurnberg, Germany)
Campus boards, says Jerry Moffatt, are best used for increasing power, “which is what we all want and needâ€. Moffatt has been training on campus boards since 1987 and continues to do so today. Although campusing could also be used for endurance, Moffatt feels its not the best way, plus the repetitive easy moves endurance training requires could be injurious, boring and give you blisters.
Jim Karn believes that campusing is best used for working on specific weaknesses: If you're poor at locking off open-handed, practise open handed lock-offs on a campus board. If your problem is long dynos, do long dynos. If you can't identify specific weaknesses, or if you want to improve your all-around power, Karn believes bouldering on short powerful problems is of greater benefit than campusing.
Why They Work
There are two basic ways your muscles get stronger. One is by increasing fibre size; the other is by teaching your nervous system to recruit more fibres into single contractions. Campusing primarily improves the latter. As your hands hit the rungs the sudden loading teaches your nervous system to fire more muscle fibres at a time. Thee result: more power.
The Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym Campus Board
Its modelled on the “School Room†board used by Jerry Moffatt, Ben Moon and others in Sheffield, England. It has nine rungs with 22 cm spacing, with three sizes of rung.
Safety
Try to use open-handed grips as much as possible. Crimping is more likely to injure your fingers. When used correctly, a campus board can actually strengthen your tendons to prevent injury. Placing heavy loads on your tendons causes them to grow and strengthen, but there's a fine line between training that stimulates tendon growth and that which causes injury.
Warm up adequately first. As well as your normal climbing warm up, boulder hard for at least half an hour before campusing.
How to Use It
Break you workout into sets and reps. Jim Karn does six reps per set, three each on each hand. Rest between sets, with longer rests to emphasise explosive power and shorter rests to work power endurance.
Hand over Hand
Go up and down rungs using an open-handed four finger grip without any support from the feet. To emphasise finger power, use increasingly smaller edges. To increase lock off power, skip rungs and try to do moves more statically.
Drop Backs
Start with both hands on a rung. Pulling as fast as possible, touch, but don't hold, a higher rung then immediately drop back to the first. Without pausing, repeat with the other hand, aiming for about 12 high speed reps.
Double Dynos
Go up two hands at a time instead of one.
Negatives
Start at the top and descend. Depending on your strength compared to the size of the edge, you'll either come down slowly or have to snatch as fast as possible between rungs. The former increases muscle size, the latter trains recruitment. When you plateau on one, move to the other to improve.
Projects
Get to the top with as few moves as possible, starting with both hands on the bottom. Going 1-5-9 on the smallest rungs was a popular project with Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt.
Use less fingers
for any of the above.
and an amazing link on how to build one http://www.indoorclimbing.com/campusboard.html
-
Its modelled on the “School Room†board used by Jerry Moffatt, Ben Moon and others in Manchester, England
:?
-
:roll:
-
YO mullet boy,
Did young keenus tell you about the wall, were here is the begining of it
:o
(http://www.customholds.com/thebegining.jpg)
(http://www.customholds.com/the%20middle.jpg)
-
Just finished my masterpiece. A non-fixed mini doorway campus board not vastly dissimilar from the one S7 used to market. Utilises 2 pullup bars, some hooks available from Screwfix direct and some cunning design touches. I'll be sure to put some paintshop pro pics up in the next day or two. Peace and fucking BELIEVE.
-
Mono, do you think that you have enough training facilities now? What with working at a wall, being part of the board share and now having built your own campus board.
-
It doesn't end there Ben. My room is quickly becoming a fully fledged training facility in itself. You should see the board I have planned for the coming weeks. You won't stand a chance ;)
-
It doesn't end there Ben. My room is quickly becoming a fully fledged training facility in itself. You should see the board I have planned for the coming weeks. You won't stand a chance ;)
Come on then!
I'm currently converting my flat into a mantel training facility whilst Caryl is away. By the time she returns on Friday I reckon the full 360 degree "mantel rink" will be ready and the stairs will be just a long curved slopey arete with no footholds. Even having a bath will involve hanging off fat pinches. You can crimp all you like mate, but slopers is where its at innit like yeah.
-
ive been down to toms house and had supplied him with some propper rungs, lucky because prior to this he had some hideous half cm home made jobs that were impossible to even dead hang :'( this boy is going to get strong with all this equiptment!
-
OK guys, ive got one of these weird style pull up bars that just kind of fit onto the doorway :
http://www.gizoo.co.uk/Products/HealthFitness/Fitness/Powerbar.htm
Does anyone know if either of the following are possible - 1) attach a fingerboard (and ply backing) to the bar and make it stay in the right place (ie somehow bolt it on and stop it from spinning)
2) fit a small campus board onto it (like that doorway one mccleods got- theres a pic of it somewhere cant remember where)
the second option sounds similar to what monolith talks about ? Any photos monolith?? id be interested to see how youve done yours!
cheers, i am the least practically minded person in the world so i need all the help i can get when it comes to such things!
dave
-
does it feel sturdy and secure? Looking at the picture on the website, hangling/clinging to the door frame it looks like it'd come crashing down any second.
-
yeah its ok - theres a very tiny bit of flex but its fine for doing pull ups
-
Dave, sure i'll put some pictures up as soon as I'm back at my place. It's a very simple yet ingenious design for those living in rented accomodation with a moderately high ceiling.
-
Dave, sure i'll put some pictures up as soon as I'm back at my place. It's a very simple yet ingenious design for those living in rented accomodation with a moderately high ceiling.
and you have to start bum first. (how was magic woods?).
dave, i think that there is no chance! the motion of campussing will make it fall down straight away if it was attatched to that pull up ooojeewatsit. and...ignore what tom says, YOU could not build what he has, far too hard (his dad has mad skills with tools to pull that off). just put up your finger board like normal, and polly filla the holes when you leave, (in a body bag if you take my advice and get a room in that estate!!)
-
Does anyone know if either of the following are possible - 1) attach a fingerboard (and ply backing) to the bar and make it stay in the right place (ie somehow bolt it on and stop it from spinning)
2) fit a small campus board onto it (like that doorway one mccleods got- theres a pic of it somewhere cant remember where)
This is exactly what I've done with my fingerboard. Haven't got any photos to hand but basically I mounted my fingerboard to a piece of 3/4" ply and then got two blocks of 3" by 2", cut out a slot the width of the pull up bar and screwed them to the back of the plywood board. This then allows you to hang your fingerboard on your pull up bar, but won't stop it pivoting.
I'm sure there's loads of ways to stop it pivoting but I basically made a brace out of another piece of 3" by 2" that goes from the back of the plywood board to the lower part of the pull up bar.
It's surprisingly sturdy, though I only tend to use it for deadhanging rather than pull ups.
A word of caution, make sure you use plywood for the backing board, on my first attempt I didn't and ended up in a heap on the floor with a fingerboard on my head.
I'll try and get some photos of it as I've probably made it sound really complicated. In reality it's not too difficult and I think I spent less than a tenner at B & Q sorting everything I needed.
Chris
-
Chappers, the first move in itself would probably get 8a+ if I cross reference woz's mooted grades. I dispensed with the idea of having to start with a rung beneath your chest, it requires beastliness way beyond anyone.
I've modified the bottom of the board with a grid of screw on crimps and slopers. A foot board has been included for doing small circuits with the option to go into campus moves if required. Pretty faithful to the nature of many problems I hope you will concur..
I WILL get these pictures up soon.
-
Pretty faithful to the nature of many problems I hope you will concur..
indeed every problem should have some form of nonsense at the start, followed by some campus moves feet off. very good.
as for mounting a finger board on pull up bar, that sounds like quite a good idea, i still doubt daves ability to pull it off mind, ill go round with some tools once he moves in, that way he can start to train, rather than just ticking off 8a like he does already. :o
-
Any pictures of this cunning "fingerboard attached to PowerBar" arrangement yet lads?
-
ha ha. it is still yet to be transfered from my planner into the real world.
i am also yet to go to shottingham to see what dave is banging on about, he does have access to their woodie so i ask you...what is the point?!
-
My mate's just ordered one of these Powerbar things with the intention of making a portable fingerboard. Should he complete the project before you slack gets get round to posting any pictures (likely) I will post the results. If it is a success then I'll be commissioning one as it seems a top idea.
-
My mate's just ordered one of these Powerbar things with the intention of making a portable fingerboard. Should he complete the project before you slack gets get round to posting any pictures (likely) I will post the results. If it is a success then I'll be commissioning one as it seems a top idea.
Hi Jaz. I built two today. I'll come round with yours tomorrow.
For anyone else interested in a board for deadhanging that you can carry around and will fit most doors, here are some details. You will need a Powerbar to start with - see ebay etc.
(http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2602.JPG/CIMG2602-full.jpg)
this is the general idea. only one rung at the moment and nicely decorated with felt pen by my daughter.
(http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2594.JPG/CIMG2594-full;rot:180.jpg) (http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2596.JPG/CIMG2596-full.jpg)
the top is just a long "hook" made of wood. I'm going to sand it down to be the warm up rail.
(http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2600.JPG/CIMG2600-full.jpg) (http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2601.JPG/CIMG2601-full.jpg)
the bottom is just a block of wood that stops the board swinging/moving towards the door frame by resting against the diagonal strut of the powerbar (the angle of which changes according to the size of door frame and the width of the wall). There is a slot in the main board so that the block of wood can be moved up and down - this means that the board can be adjusted easily to hang vertically on doors of diferent sizes (cool if yoy are travelling with it). A wing nut and carriage bolt fix it when at the right hight.
(http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2598.JPG/CIMG2598-full;rot:90.jpg)
front view of the slot. Its an M10 carriage bolt and the slot is 10mm wide, so the head stays fixed while the wing nut at the other end is tightened - works great.
(http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2606.JPG/CIMG2606-full;rot:90.jpg)
board lifts off the Powerbar and the whole thing folds flat - this is Jasper's ready for him to add rungs to.
Its fine for dead hanging, levers and pullups, but I wouldn't go jumping about on it.
B&Q were very helpfull with cheap off cuts of wood (inc 18mm ply!), and I only had to by a couple of fixings
Cheers
Rob
-
:great: :bow:
-
I forgot to put the pictures of how the stabalising block can be rotated to allow the whole thing to lie almost flat without having to undo anything (therefore v quick)
(http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2607.JPG/CIMG2607-full;rot:90.jpg) (http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/CIMG2608.JPG/CIMG2608-full.jpg)
This thing should have a BMW badge on it!
I only really wanted to impress Jaspers sister-in-law with how good I was at DIY type stuff. Mines been up for 24 hours and I'm still not injured......
-
ls, that's a corker, i take it you've applied to go on lion's den..?
-
Lion's Den turned me down on the grounds that sticking my awesome inovation on tinterweb for all to copy was the worst business plan imaginable.
-
so fatdocs looking at buying the idea then? ;)
looks good ls.
i take it that the weight is transferred through the two 'hooks' on the back? making this only adaptable to solid lintels as opposed to plasterboard (except where said board has a piece of studding behind)?
-
i take it that the weight is transferred through the two 'hooks' on the back? making this only adaptable to solid lintels as opposed to plasterboard (except where said board has a piece of studding behind)?
Yes, the powerbar sort of cams the lintel/frame.
A length of light angle-iron or even stip of wood accross the angle between plaserboard and door frame might solve that - There should be studding going up from sides of door frame (hopefully). Good point though. The powerbar does remarkably little damage to plaster/door frames..... so far. Also found that it takes a bit of technique to fold the powerbar hooks flat.
Have tested set up with myself and child - total of 110kg. Houses tested so far appear to be even stronger than my arms. Ought to go round testing it in cheap hotels and B&Bs really, but waiting for business development loan to come through first.
I wonder whether the wood bit without the brace blocks would fit on the frame of the top bunk in Formule 1 motels?
-
Wheres the cheapest place to get powerbars, so far found them for 26quid is it poss to get cheaper? and are they in the shops or just tinterweb
-
Not seen them in the shops. 26 plus postage is what I paid.
-
I got quite psyched by this idea, then realised we have cheap wooden doorframes. Not fit for purpose I fear.
-
Just to confirm. The design works a treat...........
(http://i11.tinypic.com/7ydxk3q.jpg)
(http://i7.tinypic.com/6ycobw8.jpg)
-
That 8mm incut looks every bit as painfull as you described.
Which training schedule is Son-of-Jaz using? I can probably make a weight belt for him if he's finding it too easy...
-
It's easy for him. The incut edge is like a jug rail for his hands.
-
Took me bloody long enough so here's some shots of my home campus board.
(http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6180/cimg0165kv9.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
The reason for the enlarged bracket is down to a poor estimation on my behalf when giving my dad the dimensions of the door jamb. It's two blocks of 18mm ply glued together with countersunk holes for the screw to go into the jamb. A vertical slot has been cut to allow the steel tube to slot in and out at will.
The board originally had seven rungs but due to the neccessary starting height being so low, I now just have 5 rungs and a grid of screw ons for cragx-style footless starts. I'm sure you can guess the construction details from the image.
(http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/5584/cimg0166zu8.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img490.imageshack.us/img490/5862/cimg0167le7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
Please excuse the Amsterdam flag, it's not me that's the stoner.
Finally, the board-arm bracket fixture: through-bolted. The idea of the whole thing being that when not in use, you can just lift the board from the brackets and store it in another place.
(http://img490.imageshack.us/img490/3841/cimg0168ht6.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
-
Looks to me like you fall down the stairs if you don't make the 1-3-5 Gulp. Talk about commitment :lol:
Not very exciting but 2 bits of rope and some broom handles:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2084/2086961089_6d73f0b831_b.jpg)
Total cost around 8 quid, although I obviously had the board there already. Rungs just over 30cm apart, so (distance wise) a 1-3-5 here is about the same as a 1-4-7 on a campus board. Rope is 8mm, through 8mm drilled holes (takes some persuasion) and knotted below each rung. Reasonable workout on cold, wet night.
And yes, I need new socks. Cheers.
-
Nice pair of slippers there ;D
-
We used SMA Gold too. It's a right pain in the arse counting out those scoops.
-
We used SMA Gold too. It's a right pain in the arse counting out those scoops.
You have reminded me of the intense frustration at loosing count of the number of scoops over and over again after nights of little sleep. Character building stuff. I knew those long, sleepless alpine epics were good training for something.
Nice set up Mono :thumbsup:
-
I just use SMA for build up and nutrition post training. Tastes like shit but mix it with some bitter instead of water and add a raw egg and all is well ;D
-
what, you mix beer, sma and an egg and call it ok?
-
I just use SMA for build up and nutrition post training. Tastes like shit but mix it with some bitter instead of water and add a raw egg and all is well ;D
Junior must dread the end of a training session.
-
She's 3 and wanders around the house mumbling about power and one armers :shrug:
The other is only 6 months, so will be starting the Program fairly soon. this time I'll have to do things differently....... TWO EGGS!!
-
:off:
I would thoroughly recommed the Avent milk powder container. 2 chambers hold the powder with a neat swivel top to pour out one dose into pre-prepared water. Dead easy, and no need for nocturnal milk powder scoop counting. 3 or 4 quid really well spent. Had ours 3 years and it's been a godsend.
(http://www.babyassist.co.za/images/bottles/images/avent_milk_holder.jpg)(http://www.blands.co.uk/acatalog/BreastPowder.jpg)
End of :off:
-
Fucking hell that would have been useful (had Sharpe Jr not been weaned off formula just last week.... >:().
-
Rungs.....Incut or not? thoughts please?
-
How much of a beast are you? Incut are easier, sloping are harder. You can always start off with (slightly) incut then get busy with the sandpaper at a later date.
-
How much of a beast are you? Incut are easier, sloping are harder. You can always start off with (slightly) incut then get busy with the sandpaper at a later date.
Not much...but like the idea of starting with some incut and sanding back.
-
I followed lagerstafish's instructions and here's what I came up with. They didn't have any 18mm ply offcuts in B&Q but so I had to use 18mm MDF, seems to be OK so far. I've attached a drawing if you want to follow what I did...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/114823/Powerbar%2BBM.zip (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/114823/Powerbar%2BBM.zip)
With only an 18mm backboard the 4 smaller screws that come with the Beasmaker (1000) are too long, so I used M4x60mm machine screws instead, need to trim the ends off at some point. Wokrs nicely, and you can also rotate the blocks so it locks the PowerBar in place for easy storage/transport.
Here's a video of the frame in action. (It is the right side of the doorframe flexing slightly causing the board to move a bit, not the frame itself).
Powerbar and homemade frame for the Beastmaker 1000 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjonfMP3yDY#)
-Ifor
-
Looks good.
I would suggest your shoulders look a bit slack in the hangs though.
-
I'd probably go for a grade 2/3 at the sides though, which would go seamlessly into the stubble, but maybe stick with a 4 on top. It's not to everybody's taste but its how I roll....
-
If i were you dude, id stick a few holds in that loft hatch, then you can obviously do some moves into/up & down to them from the breastmaker.
-
hoping to build a campus in my garage over summer, i'm going to make the rungs myself as its cheaper (same thickness as the metolius ones, and maybe some slopers) but just wondering which wood i should use? I was thinking pine but unsure if its the best wood for the job. Any suggestions?
-
Ive heard there's a chap called Probes (summit to do with crusher holds) who's been knocking up campus rungs for his mates, he can do them for cheap if you ask nicely.
Otherwise, wood... pine is not the best, go for a hardwood, mahogany (suprisingly cheap to buy), beech, ash something like that, a lot of stuff inc rungs that are out in the shops are made from tulipwood, which is great, slightly harder than pine but is very stringy and hard to work by hand.
Good luck
-
I'm on a super tight budget at the minute and am going to get one of these bad boys to do some home bar work on:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-GYM-PULL-UP-CHIN-UP-BAR-IRON-ABS-EXERCISE-FITNESS-/110855228566?pt=UK_Strength_Training&hash=item19cf7c8c96 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-GYM-PULL-UP-CHIN-UP-BAR-IRON-ABS-EXERCISE-FITNESS-/110855228566?pt=UK_Strength_Training&hash=item19cf7c8c96)
My question is, do any of you that have made the Powerbar fingerboard setup (Lagers, iforwms et al.) reckon you could come up with a similar solution for this cheaper bar? At under a tenner, it'd be an absolute steal if I could get a rig going.
Urgently looking to get underway with this so any thoughts appreciated! Cheers.
-
Monolith,
I've a powerbar thing with a low rent home hade wooden attachment for a beastmaker you can have? It's no great feat of engineering though (made from left overs from when I built my shed.
Turns out my nice turn of the century door frames aren't a solid as I'd like so I'm building a permanent frame in the loft for the board.
Based in Manchester.
-
Galpinos, I shall pm you now. Thanks!
-
haven't seen this method of mounting a fingerboard on a pullup bar before, looks brilliant http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2615309;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed; (http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2615309;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;)
-
First post here but hopefully it'll be useful to people who have access to loft hatches in their houses.
I have just started climbing (a week ago) but I am already really enjoying it, been three times so far and going again tonight, but as it's pretty expensive to go and only climb for an hour before my fingers are sore, I wanted to be able to work out in my house.
I knew I wouldn't be able to drill the walls, and was reluctant to buy a pull up bar and try and mount something on there, so instead I utilised my loft hatch.
All it is is a 2.4m length of 2x4" cut into three pieces. The upper piece is 56", which is 18" wider then the hatch on each side. Then the two lower bits are both 20" wide (the width of the loft hatch). The reason I've used two is because on the left hand side across the rafters is an old door, so I needed to add a spacer piece on the right hand side to make up for the difference in height, which meant that one lower piece of 2x4 wouldn't be enough to sit down in the hatch to prevent it moving from left to right.
I plan on mounting the rock rings on hooks in the next few days, but as I couldn't find any suitable I am currently making the best of a bad situation. Also the fact I've got the three pieces stacked means that I could potentially mount a fingerboard on there without too much issue.
In terms of flex/movement, there is none. I only weigh 68kg but there's not even a creak from the rafters, which is positive. I did a few pull ups and dead hangs and it held fine, so hopefully it should allow me to train a few times a week to build up my strength.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4896022/2014-03-15-15.44.47.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4896022/2014-03-15-15.45.08.jpg)
-
Good effort, I'd sand the top 2 edges off tho so you won't come back to earth with a bang, the cord will cut through pretty easily if you hang much weight off it over time
-
Hi - hope you can help...
I am a keen climber and also not bad with the old hammer and screw driver - so much so that a friend of mine who runs a low key gym facility (we are talking in a converted farm building (although pretty decent!), has asked if I will design and build a relatively small climbing/bouldering wall/area, with the aim of him expanding the options he offers at the facility.
I understand he has public liability for the current equipment he has on offer (ranging from free weights, a number of weight machines and so on) but I am unsure if this would cover the use of any 'set up' I would build for him.
Does anyone know, or have thoughts on the following:
If I built this would I need any insurance for its use thereafter? What if it collapsed 6 months down the line (whether due to shoddy workmanship (I think not!) or the facilities it was built within being of not great 'waterproof' protection?)
If someone fell off the wall 3 months down the line and hurt themselves (no fault of the wall) would I be liable as I originally built it - or the owner as its within his facility?
Lastly if the wall itself was likely to only be used by a few people - mainly me! but also a few mates - and people didnt pay anything for using it would I/we have to get any insurance at all or just either get the odd person to sign a waiver or simply say use at your own risk?
Any help appreciated on the topic
-
Has anyone built a doorway campus board?
Are they any good? Slightly concerned about hitting legs on the side of the doorway and making sure it doesn't fall down. Ideally I'd like to be able to do proper campus moves on it but I'd still be happy with just feet on laddering for getting a pump on.
I'm considering building one that would be put away when not in use. What kind of methods have people used to attach it to the doorway?
Any other tips? Thanks! :)
-
Any other tips? Thanks! :)
Some good tips in this thread - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3263.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3263.0.html)
-
I have made a doorway campus board using plywood cups screwed to the door frame to seat dowels to support the campus board. I will try to remember to put some photos up.
-
I've got a doorway campus board that hooks over pullup bars. The top bar stays in the doorway, but there's also a bottom bar which stops the board swinging - I put this away when I take down the board.
There's not enough height in a doorway for a full campus 7 rungs (unless your ceiling is much higher than the door and you extend the board above the top of the doorway) but what I've got is a board with small holds which I can campus up, from a sitstart. For my purposes this is more useful than campussing because it works the fingers, but it's probably not the best setup for power endurance.
-
You can mount a fingerboard or small campus board direct to plasterboard using M8 blue 'Grip It Fixings' if you need to: http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/pdfs/gripitfixings-brochure-2014.pdf (http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/pdfs/gripitfixings-brochure-2014.pdf)
-
You can mount a fingerboard or small campus board direct to plasterboard using M8 blue 'Grip It Fixings' if you need to: http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/pdfs/gripitfixings-brochure-2014.pdf (http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/pdfs/gripitfixings-brochure-2014.pdf)
Good find, but..
I'd be a little bit wary of that, too reliant on the original intaller of plasterboard's workmanship and sturdiness of the plasterboard in question, the rear face could easily already be damaged without your knowledge, or the plasterboard could have gotten soaked during the construction process. these will likely be things outwith your control.
Much more robust to fix ply to the studs and then mount the fingerboard, assuming timber stud. otherwise sandwich ply back to back on either face of the doorway (above the facing if you want to be neat) and bolt the two together, then mount fingerboard or mini campus board.
anyway, that's ma two pee's* worth (assuming Scotland readdopts the pee in a month's time)
*Pee: a hunnerth of a poond
-
I'm in the process of building a campus board and I'm a bit stumped...
It might seem like a stupid question but what is the easiest way to cut an angle into a piece of wood like in the speech bubble on the picture below? I only have a hand saw and a jigsaw to use.
Cheers
(http://www.indoorclimbing.com/images/ceiling.jpg)
-
If it's for at the junction you have shown just tilt the timber so that its face sits flush against the rear face of the plywood.
If you have to cut down the length then you can tilt the base of the jigsaw if this model allows it, or put a packer on top of the length of timber so the jigsaw sits at an angle, or cut right down the length with a hand saw.
-
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/11390065_489619817867533_968694027116748474_n.jpg?oh=a3ef25abc89e306bfafc456a19a02c9f&oe=55EE8B0D) (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=489619817867533)
-
Guessing that's a prototype that ste has been given?
You can't buy those rung sizes either.
-
Looks cool. Wonder when it will be about
-
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/22/874c23a24e088ebdaf5d93c3a291b6c5.jpg)
Put together. Looks good!
-
That does look good!
-
The slots are really good for timing and direction etc, not many liked them for some bizarre reason. Well the reason was ego
-
Anyone know if/when and how much?
-
Finished a little home made campus / hangboard a couple of weeks ago, as for various rental reasons I couldn't hang my BM up inside and I had some ply lying around the shed. Thoughts so far are that training outdoors through winter isn't that bad, although warming up enough before a session is a stretch.
I'll get round to putting more rungs on the left side eventually - as it's overhanging it stays dry, and the BM detaches.
Disclaimer - I can barely use a drill.
(http://i.imgur.com/3D4809J.jpg)
-
Finished a little home made campus / hangboard a couple of weeks ago, as for various rental reasons I couldn't hang my BM up inside and I had some ply lying around the shed. Thoughts so far are that training outdoors through winter isn't that bad, although warming up enough before a session is a stretch.
I'll get round to putting more rungs on the left side eventually - as it's overhanging it stays dry, and the BM detaches.
Disclaimer - I can barely use a drill.
(http://i.imgur.com/3D4809J.jpg)
good effort on joining the diy board club.
it may always seem like I'm doling out criticisms to board builders, but that's because i care.
Here we go
1. your board is going to blow over, or away on a windy day
2. what is stopping the legs (behind your back in the photo) from sliding away, from parting, or from parting company with the main frame?
3. none of the above is fatal, add some cross bracing, perhaps some stronger fixings between the legs and the frame (bolts), bolt the legs down to the ground or wall.
-
You're going to need to seal the edge of the ply, to stop it delaminating too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Cheers for the advice folks - was going to add some cross braces on the rear legs (behind the board) when I got my hands on more timber - the legs at the front go into holes dug in the grass to stop any slippage. Found that out the hard way....
Any tips on what to use to seal the edges of the ply? I coated the back and edges in some creosote I found in the shed for that lovely diesel smell, but not convinced it's doing anything useful.
-
You need to creasote the top edges of your campus rungs to stop them splitting.
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
-
The best thing is a length of treated timber (2"x3" is cheap ~ 2.90 for 2.4 mtrs from B&Q, untreated so creosote it).
The thing to avoid is exposed end grain, this is where the wood will absorb water (mainly) and that will cause it to warp.
All the edges of the ply will have end grain exposed in some of the laminates and a combination of sealant and capping will give you the best life (seal before you cap).
Any brand of shed/fence treatment will do for preservation, although it might be better to take it apart, treat everything and then rebuild.
If you want it to last.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Looks good, now to work on how to use a belt ;)
-
Looks good, now to work on how to use a belt ;)
I have slim hips!
Thanks Matt et al - useful advice for someone like me who struggles with DIY..(and belts)
-
Sorry for the Farcebook link.
Not so much how to build a Campus board as How things have changed since the 1990s and can you imagine any pros career recovering from that level of misogyny?
Still, funny.
https://www.facebook.com/372039292906675/posts/1729717763805481/ (https://www.facebook.com/372039292906675/posts/1729717763805481/)
-
notice that Jerry talks about good climber climbing quickly
I'm looking at you Shark
-
Some of that...err..."content" may not have aged well, but crikey they knew how to soundtrack a climbing video back in the day.
-
Brilliant :clap2:
-
notice that Jerry talks about good climber climbing quickly
I'm looking at you Shark
Perhaps he needs to look over his shoulder and say "watch this, baby" before setting off on his redpoint attempt.
-
I'm intrigued as to the identity of the Foundry lady. Presumably she was a hired model and not an employee/Sheffield climber who was cajoled into it.
I can't explain why, but I've got a sudden urge to go campus boarding...
-
That video is ace!
-
I'm intrigued as to the identity of the Foundry lady. Presumably she was a hired model and not an employee/Sheffield climber who was cajoled into it.
I can't explain why, but I've got a sudden urge to go campus boarding...
I have a memory of seeing a photo of Jerry stood with his arm around a similarly "glamour model"-esque woman in front of his Porsche but I'm damned if I can find it to share. Might be the same person, even the same day.
Come to think of it isn't there a shot of him doing the Buckstone Dyno with a pretty lady stood at the top?
-
Was it this lady?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7zY8SugOAY
-
I have a memory of seeing a photo of Jerry stood with his arm around a similarly "glamour model"-esque woman in front of his Porsche but I'm damned if I can find it to share. Might be the same person, even the same day.
(https://www.grimper.com/media/2016/2016-05/article/juillet/GerdHeidorn_Scan_England_003__fit_670x483.jpg)
-
I'm intrigued as to the identity of the Foundry lady.
Thats Mrs Moffatt isnt it?
-
SoHandsome. Those were the days.
-
Come to think of it isn't there a shot of him doing the Buckstone Dyno with a pretty lady stood at the top?
Only just seen this.
I seriously doubt it was Jerry. I remember it featuring a muscular climber. Given it was Red Chili it could have been Gerhard Horhager but I'm not sure.
Wait a minute, wasn't it Richie Patterson?
-
Thats Mrs Moffatt isnt it?
Mrs. Glowacz?