UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: andybfreeman on September 18, 2012, 05:16:53 am
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Some more good stuff here:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/podcasts/oralhistories/podcast.xml (http://www.americanalpineclub.org/podcasts/oralhistories/podcast.xml)
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Didn't know where the best place to post this was (blogs maybe?) but anyway, I thought this would interest quite a few folk on here, and it's helping me keep psyched through a layoff from climbing.
If you haven't already, check out The Enomocast, it's so brilliant - Chris Kalous seems to have a great thing going there and manages to keep it funny and at a grass roots level despite the 'message from our sponsors'; kind of an audio version of UKB if it were in N.America.
Particularly gold dust are:
- The interview with Randy Leavitt, which I thought was awesome (what a ledge, driving 10 hours each way in a day to proj new routes, discovering and developing Clark Mountain - home of Jumbo Love etc, Yosemite wad, big wave surfing),
- Hayden Kennedy on alpine epics and chopping the Compressor Route,
- from mid-way through with Jonathan Siegrist talking about attempting the Dawn Wall proj with Tommy Caldwell (the whole interview's good),
Loads more good material on there, haven't listened to the Alex Honnold one yet.
I long ago lost all interest in listening to 95% of sponsored climbers talking vanilla zombie shit via the usual channels - most of what they have to say comes across to me as being predictable to the point that it's like listening to paint dry. Definitely the Enormocast is something missing from the UK scene although I can't think who here would have the charisma and enthusiasm to pull off something similar? Hearing Kalous interview some of the top British climbers from the 80's would be pretty interesting.
Here: http://enormocast.com/ (http://enormocast.com/) Enjoy!
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Yeah, love the enormocast.
Also check out some good Climb talk Radio. At first I didn't like it because of the guy who talks in the slow, Bouldery accesnt, then I loved it all of a sudden, because of the guy with the slow, Bouldery accent. I expect your experience will be clouded with the same thing:
Jim Erickson on the Naked Edge etc:
https://archive.org/details/climbtalk-8-17-2012
Huntley Ingalls on Layton Kor and desert towers:
https://archive.org/details/climbtalk-6-22-2012
https://archive.org/details/climbtalk-7-20-2012
Loads more if you like it, but just google Climb Talk radio
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pre-pubescent, tiny hands... you know: "Pad Sniffers, they smell of skittles"
;D
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In case anyone is interested. :punk:
http://enormocast.com/episode-75-stevie-haston-rad-reputation/ (http://enormocast.com/episode-75-stevie-haston-rad-reputation/)
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Typical of the man that this will be overlooked by being placed in the wrong thread!
Well worth a listen.
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Opps! Where would one put this? :sorry:
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I guess either 'Chuffing' or 'News'
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Warning: the interview doesn't start until just over seven minutes of complete inanity have passed. I'd given up the will to live by that point.
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The Enormocast has had a run of lame interviews recently, but IMO the very latest with Sonnie Trotter is a return to form:
http://enormocast.com/episode-78-sonnie-trotter-nicer-than-you-are/
You'll have to look into them individually, but there's some cool content in there. Pity is that every time, also with the good ones (Hindlay/Honnold/...), the presenter Chris is more relating to himselves than to the interviewed.
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I've been listening to quite a few of these in recent weeks on my walk to work. Have to agree that Kalous' self referencing becomes quite annoying and being a tradman it's hard to not feel the animosity when he's speaking to sport climbers. I do think he gets some good content out of the interviewees though, it has that good conversational style to them so it's natural he'll throw in his own experience I suppose.
This last Trotter one was good, as was Ethan Pringle's for it's honesty in being a disillusioned rich kid. I Found Hazel's one not great due to the overbearing grit theme running through the questioning which you can tell is basically foreign to her. That said, glad he does them. I just skip the adverts.
To echo Pete above, it would be great to have something like this for UK/Ireland. Doesn't seem like much hard work to produce beyond getting sat down with someone.
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The Lynn Hill Enormocast has been my favourite by far, she just seems a class above the rest in her level of comfort during the interview.
I'll have to add Trotter and Pringle to the list although I still don't have an AUX plug in the car.
To echo Pete above, it would be great to have something like this for UK/Ireland. Doesn't seem like much hard work to produce beyond getting sat down with someone.
Well volunteered? :tumble: or Shark perhpas. Moon, Godskins, Steve Mc?
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Not for me, I'm from hull. Be great if Simon has the time and inclination
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The Master's Apprentice - Yvon Chouinard on Climbing with Fred Beckey (http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/01/the-masters-apprentice-yvon-chouinard-on-climbing-with-fred-beckey.html)
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With the Enormocast, I quite like your man's rambling. For one, it's his show so he can do what he likes, but also it gives the show a personality and a point of view, which I think is essential and that other podcasts I have heard lack.
I can see why you wouldn't like it, but I think I have listened to every episode and don't mind it.
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Johnny Dawes on BBC Radio Sheffield's "Life so Far" (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p02qs9h5)
Interview starts at 2h 09min 20secs and runs for about 20 minutes.
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Thumbs up for the Enormocast. Listened to every episode so far. Just skip the adverts at the front. I actually sent the guy £10 to buy himself a few beers and send me some stickers. (They are awesome btw)
Hard to say which are my favourite ones, I like getting into the heads of the 'pros' etc, but equally some of the absolutely insane stories they tell really crack me up. One of my favourite episodes barely mentions climbing at all http://enormocast.com/epsiode-66-angela-van-wiemeersch-the-ice-gypsy/ - She sounds like the coolest most hot female on the planet tbh :2thumbsup:
Also, new episode just out with Nina Caprez !!!! :wub: :wub: :wub:
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Also, new episode just out with Nina Caprez !!!! :wub: :wub: :wub:
:wub: - and it doesn't crush the illusion?
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Listening to the Caprez enourmocast now. Really interesting- cool to hear her views on the sort of films she wants to be involved in making especially.
Going to start listening to these regularly now.
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It has been mentioned already elsewhere but definitely deserves inclusion in this thread. Alex Barrows interviewed at Training Beta.
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/alex-barrows/?portfolioID=3838
Bill Ramsay up next on that site too ... should be good hopefully.
Great podcast, he seemed a lot more comfortable than some of the others. Good content also
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Nalle, talking for an hour or so about the Lapnor project amongst other things.
http://theledge.podbean.com/e/nalle-hukkataival/
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Those Training beta podcasts are spoilt by the presenter I find- she's fun and cheerful and the beginning and end but when the interview's taking place she sounds so tetchy and bored.
In the Barrows one she mentions that she's writing what he's saying down, so maybe that's the reason. Got knows why you'd do that when the interview's being recorded though. :shrug:
I still listen to them of course but I much prefer the Enormocast guy's relaxed style.
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Those Training beta podcasts are spoilt by the presenter I find- she's fun and cheerful and the beginning and end but when the interview's taking place she sounds so tetchy and bored.
In the Barrows one she mentions that she's writing what he's saying down, so maybe that's the reason. Got knows why you'd do that when the interview's being recorded though. :shrug:
I still listen to them of course but I much prefer the Enormocast guy's relaxed style.
Being a "pad-sniffing euro-weenie" myself I find Kalous a bit annoying (and apparently he spends most of his climbing time clipping bolts in Rifle anyway), but yeah I'd much rather listen to him than TrainingBeta. She's done the 'hang on I'm writing this down' thing in various interviews.
I've also listened to a few episodes of the 'chalktalk' podcast: http://mantlepressmedia.com/. Despite being labelled a 'climbing industry' podcast, it's pretty interesting. The presenter has a engaging style and covers some interesting topics like the route-setting episode with Tonde Katiyo (ep34) and some good coverage of the comps.
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I've been spending far too much time in the car in recent weeks and have thereby become an enormocast fan. Find it better than music for staying awake on long stretches of midnight autobahn. The one with Stevie was fantastic.
Neely and the Chalk Talk guy have some worthwhile stuff too.
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I was highly disappointed (perhaps wrongly so) in a recent TrainingBeta Podcast I listened to featuring Steve Masich even though members of this Parish had recommended it highly.
Perhaps it's me that's wrong on this (and I'll have to re-read the article to see) but SM makes a very strong statement that adding weight whilst fingerboarding is better than using a small edge, citing the Lopez study as some of the only available research on training for climbing, proving that result.
My understanding was that EL compared MAW (Max. added weight) followed by MED (Min. edge depth) and the reverse i.e. MED followed by MAW, and compared the two. I didn't think she'd done MAW vs. MED (am I remembering this correctly?).
If this is the case then I think it needs correcting. It gave me little confidence in what followed if I'm honest.
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Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests.
I found the last James Lucas one quite funny, have you listened to that one?
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My understanding was that EL compared MAW (Max. added weight) followed by MED (Min. edge depth) and the reverse i.e. MED followed by MAW, and compared the two. I didn't think she'd done MAW vs. MED (am I remembering this correctly?).
Indeed, I've seen people quote it as evidence that
- 10 second hangs are best
- Adding weight is better than reducing edge size
- 4 finger half crimp is the best
In reality it shows none of these, and doesn't even attempt to show any of these. I think a lot of people who aren't used to reading papers take things away from them that aren't necessarily there. It gave a little insight into something that may prove interesting but nothing more... (Plus, since the group size was 4-5 people and they were all undergoing different training outside of the exercises it means pretty much nothing)
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Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests.
I found the last James Lucas one quite funny, have you listened to that one?
Second that. James is really funny and reminds me a lot of Grimer. I wonder if they've ever met? It would be like Janet and Michael Jackson in the same room. Magic could happen...
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It would be like Janet and Michael Jackson in the same room. Magic could happen...
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m0pe74Czq81rqmnx7o1_250.jpg)
Would need to be a video interview then, ideally.
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Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests. Meanwhile, somehow, despite Neely Quinn being a terrible interviewer, the Trainingbeta podcast has scored several great interviewees, like Ondra and Bill Ramsay.
If you think Neely is a weak interviewer and the enormocast is becomng too advertising driven, well you ain't heard nothing until you've tried Jürgen Reis at powerquest.cc (http://www.power-quest.cc/)
Nevertheless, he gets some good guests. Here's Steve McClure (http://download.power-quest.cc/PQ-podcast499.mp3) on being weak but naturally light and not training systematically. The bit with Steve in English is from about 18:00 to 45:00
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https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).
Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.
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https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).
Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.
I feel like Neely struggles with interviewing people who aren't really focused trainers/coaches, seeming to get bogged down in details about training when often the interviewee basically 'just goes climbing'.
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Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests. Meanwhile, somehow, despite Neely Quinn being a terrible interviewer, the Trainingbeta podcast has scored several great interviewees, like Ondra and Bill Ramsay.
If you think Neely is a weak interviewer and the enormocast is becomng too advertising driven, well you ain't heard nothing until you've tried Jürgen Reis at powerquest.cc (http://www.power-quest.cc/)
Nevertheless, he gets some good guests. Here's Steve McClure (http://download.power-quest.cc/PQ-podcast499.mp3) on being weak but naturally light and not training systematically. The bit with Steve in English is from about 18:00 to 45:00
Liked that. It's always really good listening to McClure talk about climbing and (not)training or dieting. He's the antithesis of a lot of what goes on in the 'diet and training' section on here. Although I'm naturally attracted to specific training for climbing, I like that there are people who are so internally motivated by something that they can become a master at it by more or less just following the clichéd approach of 'best training for climbing is climbing'.
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https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).
Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.
It was nice to hear him not misquote the Eva Lopez stuff too, in fact his review of the paper is one of the better efforts I've seen. /rant
I listened to both the above and the Sonnie Trotter Enormocast on a recent flight and I'd favour listing to Neely every time atm, 8:30 of intro / adverts on the latter!
There are a lot of trainers / coaches out there these days (as the TB cast discusses) and I'm still not sure there'd be many I'd be willing to use, even more so after hearing them discuss certain things on social media and podcasts.
However, I'm psyched to hear Tommy.
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https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).
Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.
I feel like Neely struggles with interviewing people who aren't really focused trainers/coaches, seeming to get bogged down in details about training when often the interviewee basically 'just goes climbing'.
Yeah, or put more generally: she does better with bright articulate people who have their ideas sorted. That said, it can be quite entertaining listening to her struggle. The Isabelle Faus one is a classic in that genre.
Seems like a good way to put it - will add the Faus podcast to the queue to listen to!
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I quite like the Enormocast, and the relaxed style of Chris. It's funny and keeps the psyched level sufficient for boring training or when other obligations keep me away from the gym.
I've tried listening to the TB podcast, but it didn't really stick with me. The interviewer bored me and seemed rather ill prepared. Guess I'll have to give it another go at some point though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Jamcrack 1. (http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/) :great:
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Just finished listening to Tommy's spin on Training Beta. Very good episode. Neely isn't the greatest interviewer in the world, but with the right interviewee some good info gets thrown up.
I was particularly interested in the bit on aerobic capacity being trained at split intensities and the concept of the "wasted miles" of moderate intensity endurance training. I'm just back climbing after 2 years of frustration with ankle injury, and 9 months off post ankle surgery. Trying to develop some endurance (which I've never had) for trad next year, but it sounds like my tactics have fallen squarely in the "wasted miles" camp. Will try the split low and high intensity aerobic capacity stuff and see how that goes. Thanks for the steer Tommy!
Ep available here (https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tom-randall/?portfolioID=3838)
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Jamcrack 1. (http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/) :great:
Quite enjoyed first Jam Crack episode - got the episode with Tommy C in my queue but what I've heard so far is good.
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+1
Just listened to Michaela on the way to work: excellent.
Off to look for a random Grimer post to wad.
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That was great. Funny and serious in about equal measure.
Strong sport climber/boulderer takes to trad. climbing is almost a trope now but this is one of the best: "You put an elephant in the elephant-shaped hole"!
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Very funny that bit
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Guy, don't start carrying elephants on cord please!
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That was great. Funny and serious in about equal measure.
Yes, seems like a very smart and self aware lady.
M jnr & I were well impressed as live spectators of her performance in the World Champs in Munich 2014
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Just came across this: https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911/
Recent interview with Tom Randall is good.
Also found the Ethan Pringle one interesting too. His advice: no :lets_do_it_wild: before hard climbs!
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Back on Grimer: That Tommy Caldwell one is really great.
I didn't know anything about him but he comes across well, clearly put at ease by Grimer and the rapport benefits the interview. Compared to how dry some of the training podcasts are these are a treat.
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Not listened to either of these but they are in my Soundcloud stream and I figured others might be interseted...
The Ledge - Jimmy Web (https://soundcloud.com/heedge-limbingifeodcast/jimmy-webb)
Conversation with Boone Speed (https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911/conversation-w-boone-speed-one-of-americas-most-sought-after-sport-photographers) although it sounds as though its primarily about photography.
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Is Chris kalous the enormocast guy? He does my head in. It seems to be more about his opinions and stories than the interviewees. The one with Hayden Kennedy was ridiculous. He was just interrupting him constantly to keep on banging on about his point. I'm fairly sure they would be better in a half hour version edited by somebody else
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Boone Speed
Great name.
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I just stumbled over the now ended "Basecamp (https://www.banffcentre.ca/podcasts/basecamp)" series of podcasts from the Banff Centre. Many of the usual suspects interviewed on there: Caldwell, Honsolo, etc. The interviewer is very low key, almost to the point where he just seems to be reading out a list of pre-prepared questions without any effort at logical segues. But I think I prefer that to Chris Kalous' lengthy pre-ambles. Two stand-outs for me, neither climbing stars in the normal sense:
Ed Douglas (https://www.banffcentre.ca/articles/ed-douglas)
Katie Ives (https://www.banffcentre.ca/articles/katie-ives-0) (editor of Alpinist)
Thanks. The Ed Douglas one is particularly good.
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Just came across The Ledge : Daniel Woods and Dave Graham (https://soundcloud.com/heedge-limbingifeodcast/daniel-woods-david-graham)
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I tried to listen to one Enormocast with Hazel Findlay and I gave up. I couldn't understand why there was so much stuff in there which wasn't Hazel Findlay talking.
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I tried to listen to one Enormocast with Hazel Findlay and I gave up. I couldn't understand why there was so much stuff in there which wasn't Hazel Findlay talking.
That wasn't a particularly very good one, he just kept talking about Grit. I enjoyed the Ethan Pringle interview if you're prepared to give it another go, he seems well sad in it, poor Ethan.
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Just came across The Ledge : Daniel Woods and Dave Graham (https://soundcloud.com/heedge-limbingifeodcast/daniel-woods-david-graham)
Only halfway through this but thought it was pretty ironic/funny when DG joins in saying he just wants to sit and listen as he always feels like he is interrupting throughout his life. Daniel then struggles to get another word in for as long as I've listened so far.
Bit of a shame as I was really enjoying Daniel's chat. I'm sure DG will make up for it but so far I'm not digging it.
I tried to listen to one Enormocast with Hazel Findlay and I gave up. I couldn't understand why there was so much stuff in there which wasn't Hazel Findlay talking.
That wasn't a particularly very good one, he just kept talking about Grit. I enjoyed the Ethan Pringle interview if you're prepared to give it another go, he seems well sad in it, poor Ethan.
I agree. Though don't remember the Hazel one being that bad. The Ethan Pringle one is really interesting. Think he has depression as I think I started listening to a TrainingBeta one with him about climbing with depression...
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Just came across The Ledge : Daniel Woods and Dave Graham (https://soundcloud.com/heedge-limbingifeodcast/daniel-woods-david-graham)
Only halfway through this but thought it was pretty ironic/funny when DG joins in saying he just wants to sit and listen as he always feels like he is interrupting throughout his life. Daniel then struggles to get another word in for as long as I've listened so far.
Bit of a shame as I was really enjoying Daniel's chat. I'm sure DG will make up for it but so far I'm not digging it.
Yet he joined in when asked to do so. :shrug:
No idea if this fits what others define as quality as I've not listened to it...
Dan Goodwin - Conversation with Rustam Gelmanov (https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911/conversation-with-rustam-gelmanov-the-russian-boulderer)
I'm too lazy to bother adding these in the future so I'll just add links to the Soundcloud pages...
Dan Goowdin (https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911)
https://soundcloud.com/heedge-limbingifeodcast]The Ledge (http://)
MtnMeister (https://soundcloud.com/mtnmeister)
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https://www.target10a.com/magazin/2016/03/20/podcast-weltrekordkletterer-alex-megos-und-mr-gimmekraft-patrick-matros/ (https://www.target10a.com/magazin/2016/03/20/podcast-weltrekordkletterer-alex-megos-und-mr-gimmekraft-patrick-matros/)
can one of the german speakers translate a few of the sections, highlights provided by Google Translate...
What are the most effective and Fingerkaft- handle Board training strategies, which include Alex Mego his "steel fingers" owes?
What are the optimum balance exercises on gymnastics rings & Co.?
Thanks in advance!!
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Anyone else think the training beta ones have been a bit poor recently? Had she run out of big names to interview? The last one (Danny Middletown?) was pretty desperate. I managed about 20 minutes before realising I was never going to get this time back. The last good one I recall was Beth rodden.
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I've definitely got more into the power company podcast, trainingbeta always seems almost entirely dependent on the guest and can be very hit or miss whereas Kris, the power company host, seems much more knowledgeable himself. Things like the Will Anglin, Eric Horst and Steve Bechtel episodes are gold, as are the board meeting discussions. I've missed having a regular stream of Chalk Talk episodes recently too, really enjoyed the more industry-focussed episodes, lots of good setting-focused ones in there and looking forward to the world cup analysis episodes again this year
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The enormocast clearly still ain't what it used to be in the glory days of the Stevie Haston interview, but I just listened to one of the better recent ones, featuring the author of the most ground breaking, jaw dropping feat in the history of solo rock climbing. That's right folks: Hans-Jörg Auer.
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Quite long but interesting if you're into diet / nutrition stuff. Its downloadable so good for a long journey.
https://soundcloud.com/climbsci
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In case anyone hasn't seen this on the other channel, Factor Two Podcast episode one: Becoming the Master (https://html5-player.libsyn.com/embed/episode/id/5903336/theme/standard/autonext/no/direction/backward/width/640/height/360/thumbnail/yes/category/).
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Enjoyed that, wadded. Familiar voice at the end so sounds like the next episode will be worth a listen too!
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Another one from Wil, this time about UKB's own (Sir) Duncan Factor Two Podcast episode two: Nine and a Half Hours (https://html5-player.libsyn.com/embed/episode/id/5995141)
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Another one from Wil, this time about UKB's own (Sir) Duncan Factor Two Podcast episode two: Nine and a Half Hours (https://html5-player.libsyn.com/embed/episode/id/5995141)
Yes! Just listened to this and thought it was brilliant
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Thanks for the positive comment here and elsewhere, to Wil for doing such a great job, and to John and Charles for embroidering the tales. I enjoyed the opportunity to spray to a bigger crowd, usually it's just the captive audience on the drive to the crag.
The Nose ascent only attracted attention in the last 10 years, since it appeared on Hans Florine's speedclimbing website (after habrich corrected my name) and wikipedia. A few years ago I randomly bumped into John Middendorf at Joshua Tree. He remembered me arriving back in camp 4 mid afternoon but had thought we'd jumared fixed lines on the first four pitches. Several others (e.g. Bachar + follower) at the time had done this. John’s take on this (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3022300&tn=120) also contains a lovely Hans Florine vignette. This myth partially explains why our ascent was unreported at the time. I just assumed no-one was very interested, Yosemite speed-climbing was of little note in the 80s. Hans Florine's awareness of us in the 90s, as portrayed in On The Nose, may contain a certain amount of artistic licence.
As habrich says, both stories have epilogues. I climbed The Nose again on 21st June 2014, 30 years later to the day. More spray poorly disguised as a "how to" guide (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=24442.0). In most ways it was the antithesis to 1984: meticulously planned and rehearsed, with a climbing partner of twenty years and hundreds of routes, far less cavalier and much slower (only just In A Day). It was still a great experience with a great person. I got back on Sunkist in 1996, solo again. It took seven days, two just to get to the base of the chimney. With several big cams this was No Big Deal second time around. Being up on that golden headwall on my own was heavenly, especially after what had happened before.
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Trainingbeta podcast seems to have lost its way a bit recently. Seems like it's turned into the ester smith physio podcast. Has she run out of top climbers that she's friends with?
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I really enjoyed Mark Hudon and Max Jones interviewed on enormocast (https://enormocast.com/episode-152-mark-hudon-and-max-jones-as-free-as-can-be/). Chris Kalous mostly keeps quiet and lets them tell their tales.
Their free-as-can-be ascent of The Salathe - all bar 300' - in 1979 was a landmark in valley climbing. It's a big what-if, but it seems quite possible they could have freed it completely had they applied 1988 ethics.
Mark Hudon climbing The Phoenix (5.13/7c+) without cams (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/794170/The-Phoenix) :o
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Trainingbeta podcast seems to have lost its way a bit recently. Seems like it's turned into the ester smith physio podcast. Has she run out of top climbers that she's friends with?
I find the coach and physio episodes way more interesting than finding out what Nina Williams eats for breakfast!
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Mark Hudon climbing The Phoenix (5.13/7c+) without cams (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/794170/The-Phoenix) :o
Very good set of photos, love the last one with the mental brake-down on the slab!
Looking back, applying today's values on climbing, it seems like there was basically no progress in Yosemite from the late 70s to the early 90s that cannot be readily explained by better climbing shoes and slcds. I've asked a few old us climbers why (and those who agree with the premise are exclusively non Californians), but I'd love to hear your opinion.
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I've no idea about any of that, but what great pictures, and a great story. Jerry's flash remains really impressive.
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Looking back, applying today's values on climbing, it seems like there was basically no progress in Yosemite from the late 70s to the early 90s that cannot be readily explained by better climbing shoes and slcds. I've asked a few old us climbers why (and those who agree with the premise are exclusively non Californians), but I'd love to hear your opinion.
Yosemite state-of-the-art in 1980 was Bill Price's Cosmic Debris. A short, brutal 8a finger-crack, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time. By 1990, the hardest single pitches in Yosemite were probably Peter Croft's Excellent Adventure on The Rostrum (~8b) and the pitch above The Ear on Skinner and Piana's Free Salathe (8a+). I don't have to remind people here the big historical increase in climbing standards happened in the 80s, from 8a/+ (Yaniro’s Grand Illusion) to 9a (cough), a bigger jump than in any other decade before or since. Over the same time Yosemite standards improved marginally, given improvements in technology*, going from cutting edge to way off the pace.
Why did this happen? At the time it was suggested that Yosemite granite didn’t lend itself to harder free routes but recent events have demonstrated this was a fallacy. World-class climbers like Moffatt and Gulich visited, so it wasn’t a lack of interest. Identical stagnation occurred in other US areas like Eldorado and The Gunks. The common factor in all three places was a fierce resistance to sport climbing tactics. Smith Rocks locals embraced sport climbing and kept in touch with world standards (Just Do It, 8c+ in 1992). In Yosemite, the bolt wars still raged: the provocatively named Punchline was climbed (by Kauk) and chopped (by Bachar) in 1988. Training and bouldering became more systematic in the 1980s and both should have benefited Yosemite standards as much as Smith Rocks’. Yosemite only began to catch up a little when sport climbing strategies were applied by people like Hill (Free Nose ~8b+, 1993) and Kauk (Magic Line 8c, 1996), both climbed on pre-placed gear after practice.
Sport climbing was why 80s standards rocketed - but only in areas that embraced it.
*I vividly remember the impact of Fire ‘sticky’ rubber shoes when they became generally available in spring 1983, the biggest climbing technology change in my lifetime. Bachar describes selling the first shipment of 265 pairs to Yosemite in 2 hours (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=232807&msg=233294#msg233294). By 1990 there was a wide range of flexible cams, which were an improvement over the solid-stem units Price using on Cosmic Debris. 1990 technology gave at least a grade advantage over 1980.
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To complement the excellent Hudon/Jones podcast, here's the text of Long, Hard and Free (https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/lhf81.htm), surely one of the the definitive Quality Chuffing Articles.
(Sadly sans pics, but easier to read than some crappy scan of a faded copy of Mountain)
UPDATE: and a scan in full Mountain Magazine technicolor glory of States of the Art (http://www.northconwayrockclimbs.com/support-material/States.of.the.Art.Part1.pdf) (Part 2 (http://www.northconwayrockclimbs.com/support-material/States.of.the.Art.Part2.pdf))
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Fight or Flight must be the most storied route this year. Here's Jorg Verhoeven talking about the process...
http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/6/24/episode-96-project-9b-with-jorg-verhoeven
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Just really enjoyed listening to UKB’s own DT90 on the excellent Factor Two (https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/podcast_factor_two_-_s2_episode_1_more_than_a_dream-11419).
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Strongly recommended. Not exactly fun but a thought-provoking listen. Thank you Dave and Wil.
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Another recommendation for that interview/podcast. Thought it was amazing to be honest. Very thought provoking and an incredibly honest interview
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Thank you Davo, Duncan, Cheque and especially Wil.
Now I realise I have a wealth of other podcasts to listen to - Duncan, looking forward to hearing yours!
I am mightily embarrassed at the hyperbole in the opening text, Wil ;D and I'd rather celebrate Fowler and Meyers' effort in establishing Caveman in the first place, which was a stunning effort :bow: Hope that's OK. TC is a minor, but very good variation. It all feels rather lowly to me, just a product of where some of us were at with our climbing at that wonderful time.
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Hey Dave, thank you for that. Paul and I watched you on Lord for a little while from the road and then got on with our own day. There's a lot I'd like to write about this topic, but for now I just want to say much love.
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Hi Dave, thanks for that fantastic and intensely insightful podcast. You painted a picture of how early life experiences affect our personalities and motivate current actions, and also how the same visible ‘behaviors’ can have totally different meanings. Your moving description of experiencing abuse and the need to regain integrity and worth as well as manage painful emotions was very powerful. I was reading a book about childhood attachment recently and it described the childs perceived experience of parental abuse as ‘it is better [for a child] to be a sinner in a world ruled by god, than a good person in a world ruled by the devil’
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Yes. Thank you both very much.
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Podcast/vlog whatever. This is dynamite
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSepsUJKdHs
Learn the Bavarian beer diet and see Huber rope solo the excellent Jihad in Wadi Rum.
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that was ace :2thumbsup:
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Looks like a newish podcast, but I enjoyed this:
https://www.hangdogdays.com/episode-23-danny-parker-on-off-width-and-century-crack/
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Tony Yaniro interview (http://www.thundercling.com/2019/05/episode-15-tony-yaniro-an-american-pioneer/) The presenters of that podcast are pretty annoying so the less tolerant amongst you might be interested to know that the interview itself starts at 8:40.
Another great Factor Two, this time with Leo Houlding. (https://www.wiltreasure.co.uk/factor-two/episode/91e24884/no-more-worlds)
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The latest Jam Crack with Emma Twyford‘s thoughts on the Indian Face is definitely one of the best climbing podcasts ever
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Alan Watts on The Nugget climbing podcast (https://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts).
The Smith Rocks legend on his climbing life - essentially the birth of US sport climbing - injury, burn-out, retirement, and renaissance including Adam Ondra on Just Do It. The first 24 minutes is an unnecessary digression into diet and the final 30 jumps around a little but the middle is completely essential stuff.
Edit: changed the link.
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You weren’t kidding Duncan, the bit that’s a crazy guy talking about his pioneering Climbing is massively superior to the bit where it’s a crazy guy trying to rationalise his disordered relationship with food!
All this time I thought Chain Reaction was named as a comment on its controversial status as an early sport climb...
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The Rock Hard Podcast (https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMNZ_rVJcJv/?igshid=1ltwl7o1yaqm2)
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Enjoyed listening to Steve Mac on the enormocast (https://enormocast.com/2022/11/enormocast-251-steve-mcclure-immersion/) recently.