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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Jackob on May 19, 2022, 04:54:07 pm

Title: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Jackob on May 19, 2022, 04:54:07 pm
It would be nice to tick an 8a(a real one not a softy) at some point in the not too distant future. Im currently feeling like im in the the fit but ridiculously weak in terms of boulder strength category of climber after a winter spent sport climbing in greece/spain. Scraped up 2 7c+s over winter & Im currently trying mescalito and really enjoying this route and feeling like its coming together and should go any session now so something of a similar style would be good. Options at kilnsey/malham would be ideal as this is where I usually climb however I am open to other suggestions elsewhere!

Thanks  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Andy F on May 19, 2022, 05:26:25 pm
Malham: Zoolook, Straightened, Baboo.
Kilnsey: The Bulge, The Thumb
Goredale: TPM, Defcon 3
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Will Hunt on May 19, 2022, 06:20:13 pm
Remove Defcon if you want proper 8a. It's down to 7c+ in Northern Rock.
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Steve Crowe on May 19, 2022, 08:31:57 pm
The Groove at Malham, sure it’s 8a+ but it’s all pure endurance.
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Andy F on May 19, 2022, 09:29:56 pm
Remove Defcon if you want proper 8a. It's down to 7c+ in Northern Rock.
It's still 8a in the official guide  ;D
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 20, 2022, 09:59:57 am
Mandela would fit the bill. No hard moves just pumpy as heck.
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Paul B on May 20, 2022, 10:23:52 am
Mandela would fit the bill. No hard moves just pumpy as heck.

What? It's a boulder problem in the sky?
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 20, 2022, 10:24:58 am
Mandela would fit the bill. No hard moves just pumpy as heck.

What? It's a boulder problem in the sky?

Old method yes. With knees its a great  8a pump fest.
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Paul B on May 20, 2022, 10:29:24 am
If people have found a way to make that problem easier with knees then I'd take a stab that it's not relevant to this thread anymore. Grades for being scared  ::)

Regardless, it's a brilliant place to be swinging around!
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 20, 2022, 10:32:33 am
If people have found a way to make that problem easier with knees then I'd take a stab that it's not relevant to this thread anymore. Grades for being scared  ::)

Regardless, it's a brilliant place to be swinging around!

Time for your comeback!
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Paul B on May 20, 2022, 10:53:34 am
You want me to "comeback" just so you don't have to drive to mine to pick up those (Cyclist) mags  :chair:

What about Seb's RH finish to Dominatrix? Perhaps not the best rock at the crag once you've leave the 30cm tufa but Dominatrix itself is excellent and I remember it being endurance based? I don't think there's much at the crag at a similar grade that's as long.

50 for 5 into the Ashes without dropping down (this is a good option when the rest of the crag is gopping if the top survives)?
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 20, 2022, 11:00:15 am
You want me to "comeback" just so you don't have to drive to mine to pick up those (Cyclist) mags  :chair:

What about Seb's RH finish to Dominatrix? Perhaps not the best rock at the crag once you've leave the 30cm tufa but Dominatrix itself is excellent and I remember it being endurance based? I don't think there's much at the crag at a similar grade that's as long.

50 for 5 into the Ashes without dropping down (this is a good option when the rest of the crag is gopping if the top survives)?

Yeah this weekend ill grab them!

They have both been downgraded now and are absolute choss.
Title: Re: Yorkshire/Cumbria 8as preferably staminafests.
Post by: Jackob on May 20, 2022, 05:09:23 pm
If people have found a way to make that problem easier with knees then I'd take a stab that it's not relevant to this thread anymore. Grades for being scared  ::)

Regardless, it's a brilliant place to be swinging around!

Time for your comeback!

Mandela could be a good shout especially with this new beta as Im okay with my knees and my main climbing partners had quite a few sessions on this in previous years so could hopefully be easily persuade to get back on it!
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