UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: MischaHY on February 19, 2022, 07:59:13 am
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According to Jorge Díaz-Rullo (https://www.instagram.com/p/CaFul1XtM3E/?utm_medium=copy_link).
:worms:
Plenty of others taking 9a for it so fair play to Jorge going for the big downgrade, although he did cop out and give it a slash grade instead of opting for a devastating 8c+ blow to the prince of the Frankenjura.
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I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.
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I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.
It really wasn’t a big deal for him as I understand. Very casual. I was very lucky to watch it unfold from the buttress opposite. Another example of split grade absurdity.
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Looking at 8a.nu, this is far from the first time someone's suggested a downgrade including Ondra himself!
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I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS.
I think Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket in RRG were both 'officially' graded 9a when AO on-sighted them but I guess there must have been plenty of rumblings about a down grade at the time giving how little resistance there was to his downgrade.
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I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.
I though he did it by mistake, thinking he was on a different route? Therefore not having the barrier?
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Does anyone know the current state of the route? With respect to holds having vanished or appeared? Ondra thought it was maybe not 9a, but a big hold vanished after he did it but before Megos onsighted the route. Has it changed since?
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I think Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket in RRG were both 'officially' graded 9a when AO on-sighted them but I guess there must have been plenty of rumblings about a down grade at the time giving how little resistance there was to his downgrade.
There was a general feeling when I was over there that the whole area was a little on the “holiday grades” side, the consensus being that if you could climb grade x at the nearby New River Gorge you’d be getting up grade x+1 quite easily given a week of acclimatisation. I think the locals were quite relieved that Ondra didn’t knock the routes down more than one notch.
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I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.
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I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.
I'm not sure how this works. If Megos was prepared for a 9a tussle, then he's more likely to succeed; if the route was any easier, then even more so. I don't think there is a "barrier" which makes the ascent harder. It's just not the route he thought it was.
There are plenty of 7bs that I'd fair better on if I had to surmount the mental barrier of believing they were 9a when I set off
.. from my armchair :lol: that Megos kid is such a punter. I bet he'd claim 7b+ for Sardine. Everyone knows it's 7b/+.