UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: James Malloch on January 05, 2022, 11:03:30 am
-
I’m in the super fortunate position to be taking April to December off work and heading to Europe. We’ve got a big list of places I’d like to visit or go back to but I’d love any recommendations.
Our main criteria for places are:
- Sport Crags with plenty to go at in the 6’s
- Sport Crags with plenty to go at in the 7’s (maybe into the 8’s towards the end of the year).
- Ideally a nice scene where we’ll meet others.
- Somewhere not too hot (mainly as we’ll have our dog with us so he’ll need plenty of shade).
- If bouldering, probably more interested in easier stuff (6A - 7A) that’s got nice landings as will just have 2 pads.
- Nice bolting would be good where possible, especially earlier in the trip..
- We’ll be in a van so places which are okay with that are much better (so probably not a lot in Switzerland!)
Vaguely I’m thinking something like the below at the moment (I’ve not actually seen the guidebooks for a lot of these places so it’s just guesswork). Obviously months will overlap, and we might stay longer in some places/not visit some.
We have family in Germany so would probably do a few trips to the Frankenjura, and we will space the climbing out with some long walks, visiting cities, eating in Italy as much as we can. If I can’t get an EU visa we’ll end up in Croatia, maybe Turkey, or back in the UK for a while I expect. We’re also keen to visit some new places (Slovenia, Poland, Czech Republic etc.) so any suggestions away from the main places are also welcomed!
Any recommendations would be hugely appreciated. I’ve got a guidebook budget ready to be spent!
April
Font
Costa Blanca
Chullia
Margalef
Siurana
Lleida
May
St Leger?
Buoux?
Arco?
Val di Mello
June
Frankenjura
July
Ceuse
Briancon
Alpine Venues?
Magic Wood?
Zillertal
August
Ceuse
Alpine Venues?
Magic Wood?
Zillertal
September
Frankenjura
Cresciano
October
Cresciano
November
Spain/Portugal
December
Spain again down towards El Chorro
-
Jammy git!
If I get time I’ll think about places in more detail but one initial thought is don’t go to Ceuse in July or August unless you like being around A LOT of people.
Maybe go in June before the summer hols.
-
Hold fire on buying the Zillertal guide.I think I might have a spare copy. I'll check when I get home on Friday.
-
Hold fire on buying the Zillertal guide.I think I might have a spare copy. I'll check when I get home on Friday.
That’s one of the guides I’ve got already having been rained out of the French alps a few years ago.
It’s a really cool place! Thanks for the offer though!
-
No problems James and have a good trip!
-
I went sport climbing in Slovenia one April which was mega (Osp, Misca Pec), would probably be good in the Autumn too. We did a rest day day trip into Croatia and the rock there looked amazing as well so could be worth a look
-
Similar to Ceuse, I'd avoid Magic Wood during the summer. Better go there earlier or later, less people and better conditions. September/October is probably too warm in Cresciano and still prime Magic Wood season.
I personally find bouldering in Chironico more enjoyable than Cresciano. More choice, less crowds and the road up the hill in Cresciano is closed and going there now involves a stiff 30 minutes uphill walk to the first boulders.
If you haven't been, there's also great climbing in Switzerland which is in condition when it is too warm south of the alps (not all crags here look like Raven Tor ;)). There's Gimmelwald, but also smaller limestone crags littered almost everywhere, e.g. Vättis which isn't far from Magic Wood. Staying in a van for a night isn't as problematic in these places as in the obvious spots in Ticino. Then there's lots of Gneiss crags in Ticino and northern Italy (Ossola, Como).
A bit further south, Liguria is full of crags to climb on in the grades you're looking for. I've personally always enjoyed Finale more than El Chorro or other places in Spain. Val Pennavaire a bit further is also a great place, with one side of the valley getting the sun and the other basically in the shade all the time.
-
If you are after a finale guide, I have an unused one from our last trip abroad. It was a bit too warm when we went!
-
If you end up doing the Croatia/turkey thing, prob worth nipping to leonidio before your tourist visa runs out. Bit out of the way otherwise, but loads in your grade range and very friendly bolting/grades by all accounts
-
April - October
That completely isolated storm-wracked bolted version of Cilan Head on some desolate Irish outpost that petejh keeps banging on about.
-
A bit further south, Liguria is full of crags to climb on in the grades you're looking for. I've personally always enjoyed Finale more than El Chorro or other places in Spain. Val Pennavaire a bit further is also a great place, with one side of the valley getting the sun and the other basically in the shade all the time.
I've only been to Finale for a short trip but it was great, high quality rock but leave your ego at home because the grades are brutal. There's also the "other Finale (https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/rock-climbing-italy-oltre-finale)" which is a bit further along, this is Val Pannavaire according to the link. Not been but if it's as good as the original then worth a visit.
Italian climbing looks really good and virtually unknown to British climbers (I may be biased as I love visiting the country anyhow). I was looking at the Versante Sud guides the other day and there's clearly loads to go at. Shame the guides are so eye wateringly expensive!
https://www.versantesud.it/en/prod/guides/climb/
-
- Sport Crags with plenty to go at in the 6’s
...
...
I now nothing about all your points except:
- Sport Crags with plenty to go at in the 7’s (maybe into the 8’s towards the end of the year).
- Somewhere not too hot
April
Chullia
Margalef
Siurana
Lleida
All good options. You have to climb in the shade of course, but plenty of shaded sectors to choose from.
May
St Leger?
Buoux?
St Leger is an excellent choice. Secteur Balaine should be dry and in good nick. Buoux might be a tad warm, no?
July
Ceuse
Briancon
I see that people are sceptical about Céüse, but if the pandemy keep some riff-raff away from the crag as it did the last two years it can be pretty acceptable. And where else would you go in July? Desfiladero de la Hermida can be good, but it can also be brutally hot when the prevailing wind is from the south. Briançon has lots of crags to choose from which are colder than in Céüse and with far fewer visitors. The crags in Briançon are pretty average though, imho. You will easily do everything in your range in a few months.
August
If I new where to go in August I wouldn't tell anyone
September
October
November
Anywhere on the continent is OK.
-
April - October
That completely isolated storm-wracked bolted version of Cilan Head on some desolate Irish outpost that petejh keeps banging on about.
Yeah just go there, obvs 🙄
(take a drill and 200 bolts)
More seriously - somewhere such as the higher granite cliffs in the Pyrenees for the warmer months - Cavallers for e.g.? We’re currently up the road in Val d’Aran doing some backcountry skiing, have been checking out the local granite crags around here on ukc. Also some gneiss cliffs in Val d’Aran which are decent, did a couple of great routes yesterday on a gneiss cliff above Begarge.
Edit: was also going to suggest the Picos (Costa Verde guidebook).
Flatanger for mid-summer?
-
April - October
That completely isolated storm-wracked bolted version of Cilan Head on some desolate Irish outpost that petejh keeps banging on about.
Yeah just go there, obvs 🙄
(take a drill and 200 bolts)
More seriously - somewhere such as the higher granite cliffs in the Pyrenees for the warmer months - Cavallers for e.g.? We’re currently up the road in Val d’Aran doing some backcountry skiing, have been checking out the local granite crags around here on ukc. Also some gneiss cliffs in Val d’Aran which are decent, did a couple of great routes yesterday on a gneiss cliff above Begarge.
Cavallers: The slabs should provide amusment for a few days. But I just cannot take all the hiking to the best sectors. The two and a half hours to get to the crags around the Refugio are killing me, especially considering that they are in the sun in the afternoon. Can of course be combined with staying in the Refugio if the budget is OK and it has reopened after the sanitary crisis.
-
I’m in the super fortunate position to be taking April to December off work and heading to Europe. We’ve got a big list of places I’d like to visit or go back to but I’d love any recommendations.
Our main criteria for places are:
- Sport Crags with plenty to go at in the 6’s
- Sport Crags with plenty to go at in the 7’s (maybe into the 8’s towards the end of the year).
- Ideally a nice scene where we’ll meet others.
- Somewhere not too hot (mainly as we’ll have our dog with us so he’ll need plenty of shade).
- If bouldering, probably more interested in easier stuff (6A - 7A) that’s got nice landings as will just have 2 pads.
- Nice bolting would be good where possible, especially earlier in the trip..
- We’ll be in a van so places which are okay with that are much better (so probably not a lot in Switzerland!)
Vaguely I’m thinking something like the below at the moment (I’ve not actually seen the guidebooks for a lot of these places so it’s just guesswork). Obviously months will overlap, and we might stay longer in some places/not visit some.
We have family in Germany so would probably do a few trips to the Frankenjura, and we will space the climbing out with some long walks, visiting cities, eating in Italy as much as we can. If I can’t get an EU visa we’ll end up in Croatia, maybe Turkey, or back in the UK for a while I expect. We’re also keen to visit some new places (Slovenia, Poland, Czech Republic etc.) so any suggestions away from the main places are also welcomed!
Any recommendations would be hugely appreciated. I’ve got a guidebook budget ready to be spent!
April
Font
Costa Blanca
Chullia
Margalef
Siurana
Lleida
May
St Leger?
Buoux?
Arco?
Val di Mello
June
Frankenjura
July
Ceuse
Briancon
Alpine Venues?
Magic Wood?
Zillertal
August
Ceuse
Alpine Venues?
Magic Wood?
Zillertal
September
Frankenjura
Cresciano
October
Cresciano
November
Spain/Portugal
December
Spain again down towards El Chorro
I agree that buoux will be grim by May.
St leger can be climbed at pretty much any month. North facing side when it's hot, but even quite a few east facing bits can be fine probably up until June.
Ceuse in May and June would be magic, agree that July and Aug can be very busy.
Rue des Masque, in the Briancon guide, is ace in 6 and 7's, and good all through the summer. Shady and breezy. Guillestre is a nice town to hang out in, good camping etc. Amazing walking up in the nearby Queyras for non climbing stuff. Highly recommended.
-
If you ever do find yourself at Buoux when it's very hot/too hot then sector West is worth looking at (and other nearby venues). It has some really good lines.
May though? :o
James - I spent some time a few years ago putting recommended seasons onto a Gannt chart. I've emailed you a copy although I'd suggest you satisfy yourself that it's correct-ish before heavily relying on it.
-
Thanks for all the responses so far.
With Ceuse, it was more that I wasn’t really sure where would be good at that time of year (and we’ll likely be in the frankenjura in June), though it’s definitely not set in stone. All the plans are very vague - it’s also not going to be a super serious trip - more of a chance to relax and get some nice climbing in whilst we’re going.
Helge - Chironico sounds really good too. I actually mean that when I put Cresciano. Is that also more of a late season place?
I remember reading about Gimmelwald - I was really keen for a trip there but never got around to it. Is that a summer venue? Not heard of Vattis either but will put it on the list.
Sean/Helge - Finale/Val Pennavaire sound amazing too - just had a scan at some photos of them. Huw - I might be in touch about your guide!
Duma - Leonido could also be ace. Even spending the autumn down there instead of Spain perhaps - it looks like there’s loads on offer and if the food is anything like Kalymnos it would be amazing!
JWI - I’ve climbed on the north walls of St Leger whilst looking at the amazing looking caves on the other side. Good to hear that it’s decent at that time of year. Will be a nice stop between Spain and Italy/Germany. I’ve not climbed at Buoux before so unsure of the seasons there. Is that one for earlier in the year?
We’ll likely visit my friend in Briancon so will end up there for a week or so I imagine. Sounds like a cool town as well so would be nice to check it out.
Pete - hadn’t thought of the Pyrenees, will have a look at that. My partner stayed with the Arrans for a while out there but didn’t climb much - think we still have a guide somewhere. Flatanger area looks amazing too - but maybe a little far unfortunately.
Ged - Rue des Masques looks great. Bit of a different rock type too which would be a nice change.
Paul - that spreadsheet is brilliant, thanks! I hadn’t realised about Buoux - I just assumed it was similar to Ceuse/St Leger. Definitely sounds like an early season place! I’d love to visit but perhaps towards the end of the trip!
Another place I’d forgotten is Gorges du Tarn - definitely keen to go there!
-
Another place I’d forgotten is Gorges du Tarn - definitely keen to go there!
Gorges du Tarn is probably the best crag in the world for quality 6s combined with 7s and low 8s. The bolting is a bit spaced, more so the higher up you get in the grades. Great place for September for instance.
-
Another place I’d forgotten is Gorges du Tarn - definitely keen to go there!
Gorges du Tarn is probably the best crag in the world for quality 6s combined with 7s and low 8s. The bolting is a bit spaced, more so the higher up you get in the grades. Great place for September for instance.
It sounds perfect! My partner has barely climbed (especially on a rope) for a long time now so if the lower grades are better bolted then that’s good. Also plenty of time by September to get back into the swing of things.
-
Another place I’d forgotten is Gorges du Tarn - definitely keen to go there!
Gorges du Tarn is probably the best crag in the world for quality 6s combined with 7s and low 8s. The bolting is a bit spaced, more so the higher up you get in the grades. Great place for September for instance.
My wife climbs in the 6's and really didn't get on with tarn at all. I recall really struggling to find any decent steady stuff for her.
-
Slovenia can also work well when other places are a bit too hot mid summer. I was there in July before a dolomites trip (fitness top-up) and it was fine. There's also some sport high in the dolomites when it's too hot low down. I wouldn't aim for either of those as "destinations" but useful to know if you've got other reasons for being in those regions.
-
Flatanger for mid-summer?
I was going to suggest that too, especially if it means you can escape the euroclock ticking the days off.
-
Another place I’d forgotten is Gorges du Tarn - definitely keen to go there!
Gorges du Tarn is probably the best crag in the world for quality 6s combined with 7s and low 8s. The bolting is a bit spaced, more so the higher up you get in the grades. Great place for September for instance.
My wife climbs in the 6's and really didn't get on with tarn at all. I recall really struggling to find any decent steady stuff for her.
The long routes on the right on sector Zebra and the routes on sector De Que Fas Aqui? Are those 6s only good for climbers with margin? I remember them as good full-length routes in the sixth grade.
-
July
Alpine Venues?
Magic Wood?
Zillertal
I'd rate Ötztal higher than Zillertal for moderate grade sport climbing in Tyrol.
-
Some updates to the list below
April
Font
Costa Blanca
Chullia
Margalef
Siurana
Lleida
May
St Leger?
Arco?
Val di Mello
June
Frankenjura
Ceuse
Rue des Masque (Briancon)
July
Ceuse
Briancon
Alpine Venues?
Zillertal
Ötztal
Gimmelwald
Vättis
Rue des Masque (Briancon)
August
Ceuse
Alpine Venues?
Magic Wood?
Zillertal
Ötztal
Gimmelwald
Vättis
Rue des Masque (Briancon)
September
Frankenjura
Magic Wood
Gorges du Tarn
October
Magic Wood
Cresciano
Chironico
Finale
Val Pennavaire
Leonidio
November
Spain/Portugal
Buoux
Cresciano
Chironico
Finale
Val Pennavaire
Leonidio
December
Spain again down towards El Chorro
Leonidio
-
There's good Summer climbing, to my knowledge, in the Camaiore area in Tuscany. Steep hills close to the sea with lots of crags, even multipitch.
This page could help.
http://www.camaiorerockclimbing.it/ (http://www.camaiorerockclimbing.it/)
-
Helge - Chironico sounds really good too. I actually mean that when I put Cresciano. Is that also more of a late season place?
I remember reading about Gimmelwald - I was really keen for a trip there but never got around to it. Is that a summer venue? Not heard of Vattis either but will put it on the list.
Chironico is larger and higher altitude, but can be fine most of winter depending on conditions. There's a webcam you can check for snow. Cresciano is lower down and pretty much fine all winter.
Please don't drive a long way to Vattis and then quote me on it. It's a nice place, but I was using it as an example - pretty much any transit route you take through Switzerland (Geneve/Swiss Jura, San Gottardo/Central Switzerland, San Bernardino/Rhine valley) will have lots of crags along the way, so if you have a van and want to take it slow and you could climb in a different place everyday. Most of them are listed on thecrag, feel free to write me for tips.
Then there's a lot of crags at higher altitude that are more summer venues and less-crowded alternatives to places like Ceuse (e.g. Rawyl, Gastlosen, Gimmelwald, Göschenen). I haven't been to Austria very often but I'm sure it is similar there.
I've only been to Finale for a short trip but it was great, high quality rock but leave your ego at home because the grades are brutal. There's also the "other Finale (https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/rock-climbing-italy-oltre-finale)" which is a bit further along, this is Val Pannavaire according to the link. Not been but if it's as good as the original then worth a visit.
The grading in Finale isn't as harsh in climbs above 6c and in those areas/routes that have been developed more recently. Finale offers pretty much all styles, I remember Val Pennavaire to be mostly longer endurance climbs. When I was there, the aperitivo in the bar in Cisano sul Neva was substantial enough that you could skip dinner after three small beers.
Italian climbing looks really good and virtually unknown to British climbers (I may be biased as I love visiting the country anyhow). I was looking at the Versante Sud guides the other day and there's clearly loads to go at. Shame the guides are so eye wateringly expensive!
https://www.versantesud.it/en/prod/guides/climb/
You should have a look at the prices of the Swiss Alpine Club Guidebooks ;)
-
As a example of one of the higher altitude Swiss summer sport crags, I though Simplondorff was ace
-
Helge - Chironico sounds really good too. I actually mean that when I put Cresciano. Is that also more of a late season place?
I remember reading about Gimmelwald - I was really keen for a trip there but never got around to it. Is that a summer venue? Not heard of Vattis either but will put it on the list.
Chironico is larger and higher altitude, but can be fine most of winter depending on conditions. There's a webcam you can check for snow. Cresciano is lower down and pretty much fine all winter.
Please don't drive a long way to Vattis and then quote me on it. It's a nice place, but I was using it as an example - pretty much any transit route you take through Switzerland (Geneve/Swiss Jura, San Gottardo/Central Switzerland, San Bernardino/Rhine valley) will have lots of crags along the way, so if you have a van and want to take it slow and you could climb in a different place everyday. Most of them are listed on thecrag, feel free to write me for tips.
Then there's a lot of crags at higher altitude that are more summer venues and less-crowded alternatives to places like Ceuse (e.g. Rawyl, Gastlosen, Gimmelwald, Göschenen). I haven't been to Austria very often but I'm sure it is similar there.
I've only been to Finale for a short trip but it was great, high quality rock but leave your ego at home because the grades are brutal. There's also the "other Finale (https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/rock-climbing-italy-oltre-finale)" which is a bit further along, this is Val Pannavaire according to the link. Not been but if it's as good as the original then worth a visit.
The grading in Finale isn't as harsh in climbs above 6c and in those areas/routes that have been developed more recently. Finale offers pretty much all styles, I remember Val Pennavaire to be mostly longer endurance climbs. When I was there, the aperitivo in the bar in Cisano sul Neva was substantial enough that you could skip dinner after three small beers.
Italian climbing looks really good and virtually unknown to British climbers (I may be biased as I love visiting the country anyhow). I was looking at the Versante Sud guides the other day and there's clearly loads to go at. Shame the guides are so eye wateringly expensive!
https://www.versantesud.it/en/prod/guides/climb/
You should have a look at the prices of the Swiss Alpine Club Guidebooks ;)
Thanks for the extra info. Good to know about “thecrag” too. Not used that before.
-
James, another vote for Briancon in the summer, especially for routes in the 6s. Its not world class, but its a lot better than a lot of UK crags! I went a few years ago and really enjoyed Mont Dauphin (great 6s) and Rue de Masques. I would go back as there were other crags we didn't get to. My rule of thumb would be when you're using the guide, only consider the crags which get 5 stars as there are some scrappy examples as well!
-
James, another vote for Briancon in the summer, especially for routes in the 6s. Its not world class, but its a lot better than a lot of UK crags! I went a few years ago and really enjoyed Mont Dauphin (great 6s) and Rue de Masques. I would go back as there were other crags we didn't get to. My rule of thumb would be when you're using the guide, only consider the crags which get 5 stars as there are some scrappy examples as well!
Very good advice! I quite liked the concept of starring the crags rather than individual routes. And agree that some of the less than full star ones can be very average.
Around the vallouise area had some great stuff too.
-
Cheers for that. Is there a particular guide to look out for?
-
Cheers for that. Is there a particular guide to look out for?
This: https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Media/Guidebooks/France/Brianon-Climbs-COR-CE643
-
Entraygue and Fessourier were both good I thought, and that was in the height of summer.
-
Given that Gorges du Tarn is amazing and nowhere is optimum in August, I reckon it’s a pretty good option. The holds are generally positive pockets. I was there mid-late August - anything in the sun is out of course but I climbed at my max on sight and redpoint level and we weren’t getting up ridiculously early (well, not every day). It’s also relatively quiet by the end of August. Cooling off in the river is lush and if your dog likes water, it’ll love it.
I’ve also been to Annot in August. Honestly I didn’t do much at Annot itself (my wife bouldered and I climbed early doors on a nearby lime sport crag). Annot is shady and seemed to get the breeze. Not far from Verdon which also has single pitch shady routes on some sectors.
None of these places are optimum in August, but then where is? You can go semi-Alpine but then have to contend with thunderstorms!
-
GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects.
La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!
-
Obviously the best solution to Impossible August is to go walking in the Karakoram and come back reinvigorated in September. Or if not reinvigorated, at least your power to weight ratio won’t have taken a hit. I would have suggested doing the Incredible Hulk or something similar but you only stipulated sports climbing originally.
I’m not being entirely facetious: the opportunity to take long stretches off work doesn’t come up that much in a life, for most of us. Commitments have a habit of stealing up on you and borrowing at the moment is cheap.
-
I vaguely agree, when you have big chunks of time it is nice to go places you can't go for a relatively quick hit! 77 hour drive from font to Bishkek. Just sayin. Might want to keep your peepers on Kazakhstan like...
-
Gorges du Tarn could be perfect in August then. To be honest I’d rather too warm than too cold anyway. Dog would love the river, as would we!
Funny you say about contending with thunder storms. My first trip to the Ceuse was when I was at uni. Obviously going to the south of France in the height of summer meant I didn’t need a jacket. I obviously arrived to a deluge - instant mistake.
Sean/Huw - we originally planned to go further away - to Canada/New Zealand - but the dog has put a stop to that. The intention was still to leave him with someone for a few months and do a trip like that, but a year or so in I’m not sure I could manage it now…
Though huw’s suggestion is drivable at least :great:
-
GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects.
La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!
Gorge du Jonte looked amazing, we were staying at the top of the plateau and drove through it on our way to Tarn every day. Couldn't persuade my partner to go there though.
We went to GdT in May and it was roasting on some crags so it was a case of finding ones that weren't in the sun. On that basis I highly recommend this little crag for shady afternoons: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gorges_du_tarn-2077/#lamphi
-
GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects.
La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!
Gorge du Jonte looked amazing, we were staying at the top of the plateau and drove through it on our way to Tarn every day. Couldn't persuade my partner to go there though.
We went to GdT in May and it was roasting on some crags so it was a case of finding ones that weren't in the sun. On that basis I highly recommend this little crag for shady afternoons: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gorges_du_tarn-2077/#lamphi
Have to say, that place looks amazing!
https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=332427
-
I can’t believe nobody has recommended the Verdon, it stretches the sport climbing definition a bit but if not now then when? Which brings me to my main point, if you have three months surely this is an opportunity to explore some of the areas you wouldn’t otherwise get to, you might end up at some duff areas but if that forces you to have a few days off then it might be no bad thing, recharge the psych and all that. You’ll always have opportunities to go to Siurana etc.but you’ll have a job persuading people to give up their 2 week holiday to explore the crags of Macedonia etc.
Regarding some of the places mentioned I thought Tarn was better than Léger (and even Buoux although the villages around Buoux are lovely). Osp is ok but not much shade
-
We’re in Font now (best trip I’ve had here so far!) and we’re wondering about whether to skip Spain given we’re likely to spend the autumn/wonder there. Also to cut down on the driving as we’re hoping to go to the Frankenjura and they’re pretty far apart…
After font we planned to go to Gorges du Tarn but have been out off a little by some friends telling us about the processionary caterpillars which are really bad for dogs (apparently they have been everywhere in recent years to the point events are getting cancelled).
As such we are thinking about maybe checking some other french sport crags out before going to the Frankenjura via Finale/Arco/Mello and maybe some Swiss bouldering.
Would anywhere in France (ideally without caterpillars) be any good in a few weeks time. I guess it’s a bit early for Ceuse? Maybe alfroide, briancon, gorges du jonte?
Ideally looking for somewhere with a good range of low 6 to mid 7 routes…
-
Sisteron or Orpierre?
-
St Leger, Briancon area, the other crags near Gap like Sisteron and Orpierre would all be fine now. Might be hot at some of them if you get the timings wrong. Ceuse might also be fine but doesn't really fit your other requirements of closely spaced bolts and steady grades, especially in the 6s.
Ailefroide and Briancon are good but not world class. In your position I'd go to St Leger.
-
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
-
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Loads at Cuisiniere.
-
Is it really too early for Ceuse? I honestly don't know at this end of the season but I've been very late on in the year. The change was that instead of starting bloody early at Cascade and working your way rightwards you could do the opposite and climb in the sun with significantly less people about. Ceuse was also the first place Nat actually led outside (on the stuff to the left of Cascade). The bolts really aren't that bad IMO especially if you know where to look. That was back in 2007 so I'd suspect there's been more development.
-
Is it really too early for Ceuse? I honestly don't know at this end of the season but I've been very late on in the year. The change was that instead of starting bloody early at Cascade and working your way rightwards you could do the opposite and climb in the sun with significantly less people about. Ceuse was also the first place Nat actually led outside (on the stuff to the left of Cascade). The bolts really aren't that bad IMO especially if you know where to look. That was back in 2007 so I'd suspect there's been more development.
I thought the bolting was broadly fine too tbh. Its not grid bolted though, its well bolted!
-
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Loads at Cuisiniere.
We’ve been climbing around Isatis today so probably loads here too then. Maybe it’s something to worry less about and just be more diligent about checking/walking on a lead until we get to the area we’re going to…
-
Wouldn't most places in the south of France broadly decent at this time of year, obviously depending on orientation and the day-to-day weather? In fact isn't April kind of prime time for this area? There is the coast (Calanques, Toulon, Turbie) and further inland (Buoux, Chateauvert, Verdon). It's not far to drive between them so if the weather is crap in the hills it's easy to relocate to the seaside. Buis and environs have plenty of crags with a ton of 6s on them and decent bolting.
Ceuse bolting was fine for me and I'm a wuss.
-
St Leger, Briancon area, the other crags near Gap like Sisteron and Orpierre would all be fine now. Might be hot at some of them if you get the timings wrong. Ceuse might also be fine but doesn't really fit your other requirements of closely spaced bolts and steady grades, especially in the 6s.
Ailefroide and Briancon are good but not world class. In your position I'd go to St Leger.
Cheers - I’ll have a look at them later this week. I’m thinking St Leger, though a friend of a friend is there and says it’s real hot. But the north wall should be fine and I think we’re reasonably tolerant of heat.
And from the other posts on ceuse. I also though the bolting was pretty good. Spaced, but bolts where you actually need them rather than trying to clip mid sequence. Maybe it could be a goer Climbing in the sun…
-
Wouldn't most places in the south of France broadly decent at this time of year, obviously depending on orientation and the day-to-day weather? In fact isn't April kind of prime time for this area? There is the coast (Calanques, Toulon, Turbie) and further inland (Buoux, Chateauvert, Verdon). It's not far to drive between them so if the weather is crap in the hills it's easy to relocate to the seaside. Buis and environs have plenty of crags with a ton of 6s on them and decent bolting.
Ceuse bolting was fine for me and I'm a wuss.
You’re probably right. We were basically set on going to Margalef so I’ve not really looked into the the french crags for this time of year. I know a lot are more alpine so will be pretty cold but probably fine in the sun.
Good problem to have really
-
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻
-
According to reports, absolutely every french person having a rope is in Saint Léger this week end. Should be fine starting from next week.
Céüse looks dry from photos I've seen. No snow hanging over the top bit. Isn't Céüse a bit tricky this time though? In the shade just very briefly before sunset (as the sun is relatively low on the horison) and a bit too hot in the sun? Should be better in a month, I would think.
Tons and tons of good crags to go at this time of the year.
-
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻
Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.
-
According to reports, absolutely every french person having a rope is in Saint Léger this week end. Should be fine starting from next week.
Céüse looks dry from photos I've seen. No snow hanging over the top bit. Isn't Céüse a bit tricky this time though? In the shade just very briefly before sunset (as the sun is relatively low on the horison) and a bit too hot in the sun? Should be better in a month, I would think.
Tons and tons of good crags to go at this time of the year.
It’s looking like we’ll head to St Leger then, thanks! I’ve been well keen for a re-visit since going there 7/8 years ago 👍🏻
-
:sorry:
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻
Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.
Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.
-
North Wall at SL is very good. Les clowns one of the best 7cs around. Brick hard but amazing. The 7as on the RH side are good as well. Worth checking out la baleine as well for shade. Jwi linked me the topo on here in a thread a few years back.
-
:sorry:Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻
Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.
Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.
Why so worried about the caterpillars? Surely you should simply put your dog on a lead and carry on with your plans.
There are plenty of other things in Font that don't mix well with dogs, and vice versa, after all.
-
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Loads at Cuisiniere.
We’ve been climbing around Isatis today so probably loads here too then. Maybe it’s something to worry less about and just be more diligent about checking/walking on a lead until we get to the area we’re going to…
If you do end up heading further South in the summer also watch out for the fox tail grass, I seem to remember you have a spaniel and if it enjoys charging through the grass/undergrowth it could run through this stuff. It's essentially has a 1 way barbed head which roots into the fur, then flesh of the dog. We managed to dig 1 out of our boys paw but our girl had some in her ear and she needed to be sedated to get it out. Ours picked it up in the Ardeche when swimming in the river - grass on the bank and from then on we spotted it everywhere!
-
North Wall at SL is very good. Les clowns one of the best 7cs around. Brick hard but amazing. The 7as on the RH side are good as well. Worth checking out la baleine as well for shade. Jwi linked me the topo on here in a thread a few years back.
I thought St Leger north wall was crap! Maybe it’s cleaned up as this is some years ago (and admittedly I only did routes up to 7c). I don’t pretend I’ve climbed everywhere in France but I’m struggling to think of a worse crag? We were there in the summer though so maybe it was looking at all the good stuff in the sun. Anyways, isn’t there a massive cave now that’s shady? Is that La Baleine?
-
Baleine is predominantly shady, and mostly better than the North Face from what I remember, but best from low/mid 7s upwards IIRC so may not fit the original parameters? Though I don't recall the North Face being amazing for 6s either (but not been for a long time). Anyway, lots in that general part of the world - you're not far from Venasque, Buoux, Lourmarin etc. Not miles if you want to head to Ceuse, Orpierre etc too, and not even that far from Verdon etc..
-
I thought St Leger north wall was crap! Maybe it’s cleaned up as this is some years ago (and admittedly I only did routes up to 7c).
I'd agree, it felt like a poor man's Kilnsey in the way it climbed.
-
:sorry:Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻
Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.
Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.
Why so worried about the caterpillars? Surely you should simply put your dog on a lead and carry on with your plans.
There are plenty of other things in Font that don't mix well with dogs, and vice versa, after all.
Life’s just so much easier when he’s off the lead (though we put him on for enforced rest). We’ve been going to quiet venues and he’s much happier pottering around or chasing a ball.
He is fine on the lead too but would prefer him off where possible. He mainly just slinks off for cuddles with someone or sits waiting for something to be thrown.
-
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Loads at Cuisiniere.
We’ve been climbing around Isatis today so probably loads here too then. Maybe it’s something to worry less about and just be more diligent about checking/walking on a lead until we get to the area we’re going to…
If you do end up heading further South in the summer also watch out for the fox tail grass, I seem to remember you have a spaniel and if it enjoys charging through the grass/undergrowth it could run through this stuff. It's essentially has a 1 way barbed head which roots into the fur, then flesh of the dog. We managed to dig 1 out of our boys paw but our girl had some in her ear and she needed to be sedated to get it out. Ours picked it up in the Ardeche when swimming in the river - grass on the bank and from then on we spotted it everywhere!
Yeah he’s a spaniel, and that’s basically his favourite activity haha! Another thing to keep an eye out for, thanks! I think we’d struggle to get something out based on our attempts with a tick…
-
I’m going to be in Malgret del Mar (on the coast directly south of Girona) next week and we’ll have 3 full days to entertain myself (and the dog).
I’ve got the van and pads/sport kit, but will need to be back each evening.
Are there any good Climbing options in the area?
These are on 27Crags but no idea of the quality.
Savassona
La Comarca
Can Bartomeu
Can Camps
santa Blocona
Or are there any good rest day options? Day into Girona?
-
Hell yes! Do you like eating?
La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6
Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8
König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.
The cathedral is also very impressive.
-
Hell yes! Do you like eating?
La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6
Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8
König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.
The cathedral is also very impressive.
Sounds right up my street, thanks! My wife will hate missing out (she’s at an AcroYoga festival). Or maybe I can check it out and go on the way to France after the festival!
Might have to get the train/bus rather than driving…
-
I don't know if you like any kind of biking (road, gravel, MTB) but there's lots around that's very good.
-
Hell yes! Do you like eating?
La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6
Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8
König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.
The cathedral is also very impressive.
Sounds right up my street, thanks! My wife will hate missing out (she’s at an AcroYoga festival). Or maybe I can check it out and go on the way to France after the festival!
Might have to get the train/bus rather than driving…
She's not going to the AcroYoga camp in Slovenia in July is she? My gf is going to that.
-
I read that as ArcoYoga festival, and thought why aren't you just climbing there :)
-
Hell yes! Do you like eating?
La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6
Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8
König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.
The cathedral is also very impressive.
Sounds right up my street, thanks! My wife will hate missing out (she’s at an AcroYoga festival). Or maybe I can check it out and go on the way to France after the festival!
Might have to get the train/bus rather than driving…
She's not going to the AcroYoga camp in Slovenia in July is she? My gf is going to that.
Not planning to. I’ll have to be back in the U.K. by then (Brexit) but I think after this first one she’ll see how she enjoys it and maybe book onto more later in the trip.
Possibly going to one in September in Bristol as our local teacher is teaching there. Just depends whether I get a french visa sorted or not…
-
I read that as ArcoYoga festival, and thought why aren't you just climbing there :)
One of the next stops hopefully though!
-
I don't know if you like any kind of biking (road, gravel, MTB) but there's lots around that's very good.
Not much unfortunately. Enjoyed the odd time I’ve been but never found the time to fit it in more.
-
Does the french alps always have a shite forecast? Or are the daily thunderstorms just possible ones?
The forecasts seem to be really variable day to day (looking at Briancon, Orpierre, Ailefroid etc.) which is making planning where to go next hard.
We’d like to find some sport climbing in France with a range of 6’s and 7’s where we can find some shade. Currently getting fried in Spain.
Some of the Italian crags look okay, but ideally we would stop in France for a while first.
There’s places like St Leger north wall, but Zora would run of of things to do within a day or two. A lot of the south France crags seem to be pretty sunny or real hard…
-
Vallouise are for sure. And also rue des masques. Plenty of shade and high up, and proper quality in the 6s. Especially rue des masque.
This is one of the best 6c you'll ever do... https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/falaise_de_fessourier-12404/oz-183089
With lots of good 7b and 7c next to it.
-
This is good for getting a general feeling about any confidence levels and how the "models" (windy etc.) correlate to what the local weather experts feel is actually going to happen.
https://chamonix-meteo.com/chamonix-mont-blanc/weather/forecast/morning/5_days_weather_forecast.php
-
We’d like to find some sport climbing in France with a range of 6’s and 7’s where we can find some shade. Currently getting fried in Spain.
Can't recommend Le Boffi highly enough. Mix of sun/shade, very good 6s and 7s. 30 min walk is mostly flat from memory. Plus there's Tarn and Jonte nearby.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/le_boffi-1329
-
There is a reason Ceuse gets so busy in the summer months, it's because there's no shade anywhere else!
As per Geds advice though, go to Rue de Masque and Mont Dauphin near Briancon.
-
We’d like to find some sport climbing in France with a range of 6’s and 7’s where we can find some shade. Currently getting fried in Spain.
Very cool spot for the Vultures too. Lots of long and decent 6s.
Can't recommend Le Boffi highly enough. Mix of sun/shade, very good 6s and 7s. 30 min walk is mostly flat from memory. Plus there's Tarn and Jonte nearby.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/le_boffi-1329
-
Those vultures! Incredible. Will never forget the last pitch of Le Reverend and looking down to see a gigantic wingspan floating past a few metres below.
-
I've had them pass so close in the Verdon that I went out and spent far more than I could afford at the time on a lens and then spent most of my rest days taking photos.
I got a slight fright topping out on the Duc to find one sat on the block which hosted the chains too. I also managed to mantel onto a ledge where one was nesting in Riglos a few years ago (quite pumped). Turns out they hiss like swans and I had to basically take a lob to get out of there. Fun times?
-
Vallouise are for sure. And also rue des masques. Plenty of shade and high up, and proper quality in the 6s. Especially rue des masque.
This is one of the best 6c you'll ever do... https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/falaise_de_fessourier-12404/oz-183089
With lots of good 7b and 7c next to it.
Looks great, and we’ve got the guide too. Thanks!
Weather is a bit hit on the forecasts and miss though a friend lives in Briancon and says the weather is generally good despite forecasts (which is what led to my confusion about forecasts!).
Hopefully get there in the next 2-3 weeks.
-
We’d like to find some sport climbing in France with a range of 6’s and 7’s where we can find some shade. Currently getting fried in Spain.
Very cool spot for the Vultures too. Lots of long and decent 6s.
Can't recommend Le Boffi highly enough. Mix of sun/shade, very good 6s and 7s. 30 min walk is mostly flat from memory. Plus there's Tarn and Jonte nearby.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/le_boffi-1329
I’ll have another look at Le Boffi, thanks! I’d put a cross next to it for some reason when looking at it last week, but I can’t remember why.
Looking back it seems awesome!
-
This is good for getting a general feeling about any confidence levels and how the "models" (windy etc.) correlate to what the local weather experts feel is actually going to happen.
https://chamonix-meteo.com/chamonix-mont-blanc/weather/forecast/morning/5_days_weather_forecast.php
That’s super useful; thanks.
Much better than the Google search!
-
We’d like to find some sport climbing in France with a range of 6’s and 7’s where we can find some shade. Currently getting fried in Spain.
Very cool spot for the Vultures too. Lots of long and decent 6s.
Can't recommend Le Boffi highly enough. Mix of sun/shade, very good 6s and 7s. 30 min walk is mostly flat from memory. Plus there's Tarn and Jonte nearby.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/le_boffi-1329
I’ll have another look at Le Boffi, thanks! I’d put a cross next to it for some reason when looking at it last week, but I can’t remember why.
Looking back it seems awesome!
Caterpillars? I thought it had problems a few years back.
-
We’d like to find some sport climbing in France with a range of 6’s and 7’s where we can find some shade. Currently getting fried in Spain.
Very cool spot for the Vultures too. Lots of long and decent 6s.
Can't recommend Le Boffi highly enough. Mix of sun/shade, very good 6s and 7s. 30 min walk is mostly flat from memory. Plus there's Tarn and Jonte nearby.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/le_boffi-1329
I’ll have another look at Le Boffi, thanks! I’d put a cross next to it for some reason when looking at it last week, but I can’t remember why.
Looking back it seems awesome!
Caterpillars? I thought it had problems a few years back.
It could be that. It’s very close to GdT and GdJ which have both had big problems. It might have been mentioned on one of the articles I read.
We’ve Enden up coming to Mouriès as it was kind of on route to lots of places and has lots of shade. But if time here and whilst working out where to go - just needed to get somewhere a bit cooler really.
And fuck me it seems hard. A lot of the routes seem to have been out up in the 80/90’s - maybe while the Buoux craze was going on?
Tried a 7a today and couldn’t even manage half the moves on it. Only logs on UKC are did not finish. Seems to be similar with a lot of routes… Crazy bolting too! Going to a different sector tomorrow to see what it’s like.
-
Personally I think that old skool venues aside, French grades (in France) are tougher than Spanish grades on the whole.
-
Personally I think that old skool venues aside, French grades (in France) are tougher than Spanish grades on the whole.
Yeah I’d agree with that. This place seems like another level though haha! Though I’ll see how tomorrow goes…
-
Personally I think that old skool venues aside, French grades (in France) are tougher than Spanish grades on the whole.
Yeah I’d agree with that. This place seems like another level though haha! Though I’ll see how tomorrow goes…
The next days went better though we only climbed up to 6c. Grades felt in the right kind of region, but harder than Margalef for sure!
We’re finally just heading to Ceuse though. Weather looks a bit more iffy but it seems to change so much day to day. Hoping to ride out this heatwave and then maybe head back to a few places…