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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: remus on December 28, 2021, 12:14:58 pm

Title: Best of 2021
Post by: remus on December 28, 2021, 12:14:58 pm
The thread of the year! Obviously a few days left of 2021 but the forecast looks rubbish and this thread is always a great way to get the psyche going.

For those new to this, it's about picking out your highlights of the year. The usual categories are listed below but freestyling is very much encouraged.

Top three boulder problems, UK
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new routes/prolems put up
Top Spankings

Quote
Past year inspiration:
Best of 2006 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6675.0.html)
Best of 2007 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8400)
Best of 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10682)
Best of 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13196)
Best of 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16693)
Best of 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19254)
Best of 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21364)
Best of 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23468.0)
Best of 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25227.0.html)
Best of 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26618.0.html)
Best of 2016 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27717.0.html)
Best of 2017 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28587.0.html)
Best of 2018 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29780.0.html)
Best of 2019 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30390.0.html)
Best of 2020 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=31045.0)
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Coops_13 on December 28, 2021, 04:12:46 pm
Top three boulder problems, US

Airwolf, Indian Creek
Lives up to all expectations, five star line, five star climbing. Best boulder I have ever done (and likely will ever do). Stunning.

Return of the Jedi, Klettergarden
Mega-classic on perfect Gneiss. Potentially the best V8 in Colorado. Brutally cold but managed to sneak up it before the season closed

Pandemic, Joe's Valley
Not quite as good as the other two on this list but great fun with a topical name

Highlight video I made below:
https://youtu.be/q3qQwPkddRA

Top boulder problem, UK

Morris Minor
First trip to UK in two years, managed a trip up to Leeds. Couldn't really climb due to injury but went to a few crags with mates including a Stag-themed challenge

Top Spanking

Injuries
Was going well until a full A2 rupture on 31-Jan. This was followed by my longest run of injury-free climbing for a few years with some great climbing and a training period. Mid November I received my latest injury (damage to some ligaments between my metacarpals is the diagnosis)...
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ross Barker on December 28, 2021, 05:04:52 pm
Happy new year everyone, certainly been an interesting one...

Didn't get any sport done but a bit of trad amongst the foam pad parties and green tick wanking.

Top three boulder problems, UK

Safe Bet, Burbage North - Really enjoyed this one, completed with an inelegant mantel
Wherever I Lay My Hat, Gallt yr Ogof - Really novel move with the gaston and kneebar, took a proper bit of trying hard to get it in a session
Reckless, Kitty's Crag - Fabulous roof moves on decent holds to a flashy campus finish

Honourable mention to Pig In A Pokey, Buckstones Edge with the mint toehook spinny thing!

Top three trad routes/solos UK

All the ones on the first buttress at Burbage North - Just a good bit of fun, isn't it?
Little Chamonix, Shepherd's Crag - A nice alt-lead with a mate, a bit of benightment near the top.
Chilica, Thorn Crag - Highballable but done sans pads as they were under some other people. Enjoyable smeary arete-y climbing!

Top three new routes/problems put up

All at a new esoteric Churnet-esque outcrop in North Shropshire. Semi-secret, very close to someone's house but no issues have arisen thus far.

Finger Swinger, Brockers (7A+) - Hardest line (so far), was chuffed to find myself at the top jug. Second ascensionist seemed to like it as well ;)
French Embassy, Brockers (6B+) - One of the first lines put up, follows a line of weakness up some nicely textured crimps.
Same as above but without feet (7A) - This is all I've done this year as far as FAs go, I think?

Top Spankings

Rigpa, Nesscliffe - Thought I was in with a chance of getting this before a bad pulley strain in March, then summer came and it was too hot to be operating so close to the limit. Winter arrived and I had one good session but been struggling with conditions and motivation since. Might have another few sessions before spring but I'll try not to pressure myself.
Severus Snape, Back Bowden Doors - Almost a Top 3, but poor tactics and being several days on led to an unfortunate flapper which sealed the deal on me not completing it. Absolutely getting on it upon my return to the county!
One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest, Creigiau'r Garth - Only tried it twice. First go led me to spitting distance of the top lip, but I got tired and scared and backed off. Second go not quite so close, and then we determined it was too hot and left. Will return...
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: kingholmesy on December 28, 2021, 06:17:37 pm
I’ve been looking forward to this thread for a few days.

Best three XSs

Cushion Man  A first ascent team of Fowler, Sustad and Turnball hints at what lays ahead.  The first pitch is relatively tame. The second features surprising hard climbing on soft, sooty rock leading to a pull through a roof. The third pitch is a rising traverse, walking along a band of shale with disintegrating handholds and no gear for the first 20 metres. Utterly terrifying.

Morgana’s Mead  A gob-smacking line up the middle of one of Cornwall’s biggest, badest cliffs.  The best first ascent I have done.  Pegs and warthogs are essential, but the route picks out a line of surprisingly good rock and I would readily recommend it to anyone who is into these sorts of things.

Bird Brain  A tidal traverse in, three pitches of slightly decaying rock, and a 50m free-hanging abseil in the dark to escape off the island again - what’s not to love?

Other good (more conventional) stuff

Touch The Devil  This E4 at Pentire Point, a short walk from the Great Wall, is absolutely fantastic.  30 metres of hard, sustained bridging up an immaculate clean cut corner, with good gear all the way and the crux at the top.  Ace.

Rock-A-Bye  Hidden away in the Cot Valley near Cape Cornwall, this is a great highball.  E5 in old money, it’s around 6C+ with a stack of mats.  Unusually I was out with a big Cornish crew and we put up some new problems, so this venue now has a bunch of good mid-grade bouldering in a beautiful setting by the sea.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: edshakey on December 28, 2021, 09:56:41 pm
Not a bad year. Being based in Edinburgh til September, without a car, definitely hindered my ability to get out, but no real frustrations, got up to some fun stuff all things considered.

Top UK trad:

Definitely didn't get back into full flow, despite it being the main discipline for the year. Generally just took it easy whenever we headed out - kidding myself that I was out of shape, when really it was probably just in my head.

The Groove, Polney Crag. Was just really good! Nice day, nice crag, great route. Great crag for those heading to/from cairngorms and want some roadside trad - but you probably all knew that already...

The Edge, Loudoun Hill. A bit green, but can't fault the line - amazing feature. The scramble approach was a bit tricky (self inflicted mostly), but the climb more than made up for it, great stuff.

Fools Gold, Bus Stop Quarry. Just glad to get back on the slate at least once this year. Best of the routes we managed in a quick visit, having never been to that quarry before, and it was really good fun. Need to plan to get back for more slate generally, I love a good slab so bit of a no-brainer really.

Top UK boulders:

Not done a massive amount this year, but some were decent.

The Pocket, Langdale Boulders. Great end to a weekend with friends - was nice to be back doing trips like this after a long lonely winter and spring. Baking hot but managed it just before we had to leave, very satisfying.

Otley Wall, Caley. Glad to manage on my first trip to Caley, topping out just as the rain came over. A nice way to kick off the move to Yorkshire too.

Roadside Arête, Clach an Fhion. Slipped off the top a few days prior, managed to flop my way up before our ferry home. Extremely inelegant, but a nice surprise after expecting not to be back for years, as opposed to 48 hrs!

Other personal categories

Most surprising crag (good):

The Mushroom on Arran: The photos really don't do it justice! Absolutely incredible bit of rock, thoroughly unexpected when I started walking towards it.

Most surprising crag (bad):

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!

Best belay:

Banana Wall, Bowden Doors: Entirely made of heather. At a loss as to what else you could use really!

Most ridiculous attempt at a route:

Cracked Actor, Trowbarrow: Waited all day for my partner to sleep off her nightshift in the car. Had a nice walk, and a couple of solos. Then when she woke up, we began and by half height it was pitch black. Didn't have a headtorch I could climb in, so had to bail. Can't imagine many people have been benighted unexpectedly at Trowbarrow!

Really enjoyed thinking about the year like this. Also, definitely useful for thinking of stuff for the aims thread for next year!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: yetix on December 29, 2021, 12:17:06 am
Top 3 Peak:
Jason's Problem - hardest thing on paper I've done in the Peak
https://vimeo.com/628512904
Lovine - hardest and most satisfying problem I've done for me in the Peak
https://vimeo.com/583494854
Amarna - Churnet is the peak right? Really doing this one, the moves were really cool when it came together
https://vimeo.com/560634630

Top 3 Wales:
Jerry's Roof Local Start - much worse start than the Tourist tick but one I had left undone for a couple years, did it first go of the day after climbing at Rhiw Goch beforehand in what was a really lovely day with my GF
https://vimeo.com/614795606
Badgers in the Mist - found this brick, ratty left hand holds are something I generally struggle on which made this satisfying for sure.
https://vimeo.com/614786905
Ferrino sans - eliminate but hardest thing I've done all year
https://vimeo.com/539868274

Top 3 Lakes:
Hell Boy - couldn't do one of the moves on this, decided to go from the ground and somehow pulled it out of nowhere
https://vimeo.com/538382355
Voodoo Fix - lovely setting, cool moves and great company.
https://vimeo.com/525141298
Hasslehof Variation - sharp as fuck, especially when crimping on footholds due to a hold break but really enjoyed the moves and looking forward to getting on Knight Rider once it's repaired.
https://vimeo.com/523946266

Top 3 Abroad:
Simba - one of the coolest lines I've done
https://vimeo.com/502289045
Aben Razin - stunning bloc, spooky top
https://vimeo.com/509483268
Futuros Clasicos - probably the hardest thing I did in Spain, first repeat after the foothold had crumbled and the heel beta wasn't possible, the first 3 moves were super tricky to link together!
https://vimeo.com/508984293

Top 3 Spankings:
Flick of the Wrist, 5 sessions in 2020 and 3 more in 2021 and I'm no closer to doing this, I do all the moves every session but somehow fail to link them

Impropa Opera Sit, must have had 10 sessions on this, I can do the sit move every go, same for the stand but linking it is a different issue all together, it obliterates my skin, so I only get 5ish decent goes really too. And then my skin needs 10 days before the pulps good enough again for it.

La Fuente - fell off the finishing hold somehow and never got there again. Punter!

Really good year in all. No new injuries just managing ongoing ones is a bonus, pretty weak atm from a year just on rock, but enjoying getting back into training for the first time in way over a year
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: RobK on December 29, 2021, 08:40:30 am
My favourite thread of the year, keep 'em coming!

Top 3 Routes:

Cerberus 8a - Devil's Gorge. The best route at the Gorge for me, taking in the best bits of two classics with some wild moves in a great position. Probably 7c+ if you're fit. I was not.

Out of Body Experience 7c+/8a - Dinbren. Tried this as I wanted to get on something less travelled having done a lot of the classics and as such was not expecting much. Ended up being one of the best things I've done up there.

Tufa King Hard 6c - Chapel Head. Done on a hot summer's day, this was the closest I got to Spain this year.

Top 3 Boulders:

Ultimate Warrior 7B+ - Cwm Pennant. Perfection.

Pig In A Pokey 7A+ - Buckstones Edge. Outrageous fun.

Rock Atrocity 7C - Parisella's. Gets on the list less for the climbing and more for the feeling of finally matching the finishing hold. Why anyone would ever want to add more moves into this I do not know. Sadists.

Top 3 Spankings:

Mussel Beach 8a - LPT. If this doesn't go next year I might give up climbing.

Space Race 7b+ - Malham. OK, I was third day on and my skin and toes were on fire. But I maintain that this must have been a typo in the guide and it's actually 8b+.

Ramp Up 7B+ - Bickerton. Great line at a little gem of a crag. Got one move from the top on the first session and that is where my high point stayed.

Honourable Mention:

Hangover 77 E1 5b - St Govan's Head. My first 'proper' trad lead and one I won't forget in a hurry.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on December 29, 2021, 09:29:08 am

Hangover 77 E1 5b - St Govan's Head. My first 'proper' trad lead and one I won't forget in a hurry.

Wait, what? Like first ever?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on December 29, 2021, 09:31:43 am

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!


You are the first person I have heard of actually persevering and getting on a route. We went for a look an decided it all looked a bit too grim to even get a rope out. I expect post pandemic it's even more overgrown.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: RobK on December 29, 2021, 09:35:15 am

Hangover 77 E1 5b - St Govan's Head. My first 'proper' trad lead and one I won't forget in a hurry.

Wait, what? Like first ever?

My first ever was about a month earlier. This was maybe my third or fourth, but the first that wasn't a 10m HVS and the first that didn't just feel like a solo whilst placing the odd bit of gear. Only had the briefest of Pembroke experiences but very much keen for more.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on December 29, 2021, 09:36:52 am
OK, funny how you just make assumptions about people's path through climbing.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ross Barker on December 29, 2021, 09:38:44 am

Ramp Up 7B+ - Bickerton. Great line at a little gem of a crag. Got one move from the top on the first session and that is where my high point stayed.

That last sequence up the arête is deceptively hard. I'd be keen for a session in spring if there's a decent dry spell.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: RobK on December 29, 2021, 09:44:28 am
OK, funny how you just make assumptions about people's path through climbing.

Modern way init  ;) I'm just a plastic puller who got lost one day.


Ramp Up 7B+ - Bickerton. Great line at a little gem of a crag. Got one move from the top on the first session and that is where my high point stayed.

That last sequence up the arête is deceptively hard. I'd be keen for a session in spring if there's a decent dry spell.

Keen, you can show me the Reckless sequence too.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: edshakey on December 29, 2021, 11:02:39 am

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!


You are the first person I have heard of actually persevering and getting on a route. We went for a look an decided it all looked a bit too grim to even get a rope out. I expect post pandemic it's even more overgrown.

After the effort of getting a bus out there, and then getting lost on the walk in (Lowland Outcrops' hand drawn topos don't lend themselves to hidden crags), we certainly weren't going to leave without at least attempting something. But the first route sums it up really: climbing decent rock to half height, then scrabbling through a mud filled crack, dangling on a tree branch as the only useable 'hold', and then pulling on clumps of grass for a good few metres, while almost in range of decking due to a lack of soil-free placements. HVS, Half Very Shit?

Like I said, this was supposedly one of the good routes :shrug:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Stabbsy on December 29, 2021, 11:08:56 am
Another year where I've struggled to get any consistent time on a rope. I get a lot of time here and there for short sessions, but it rarely seems efficient to get ropes out so I've tended to boulder. The downside of this is that when I do get ropes out, I'm massively rusty and climb like an idiot! Likely to be another few years before I can get the consistency back on the ropes, so just enjoying the occasional easy day alongside bouldering.

Top 3 Problems


Top 3 Traverses


Top 32 Trad Routes

As mentioned above, opportunities have been limited! Only two days out that weren't soloing on the grit so one from each of those.


Top 30 Sport Routes

Very little jumps out. Rubicon was maybe the pick of a very limited bunch, plus a surprisingly good F6a+ at Harpur Hill that could almost have been continental.

Top 31 "First Ascents"


Top 3 Races


Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: AJM on December 29, 2021, 12:13:26 pm
Another year in which I am going to have to create some pretty arbitrary categories to be able to write down more than one thing. We didn’t manage to go abroad, and I got very little roped climbing done, so it’s mostly a set of boulder problems from different places with some dws and routes thrown in

Best three YorkshireEarl and Lakes boulder problems

We had a few days in Yorkshire over the May half term week, staying quite near Earl, which was also in best condition given the end of the second winter of early May and the arrival of some glorious sunshine. 2 short evening hits, glorious sunsets, and some cracking problems. I would give an honourable mention here to the John Dunne Slap which was also excellent fun and very much not my thing so quite satisfying.
After Yorkshire we went to the Lakes. Picnic Sarcastic was great fun pulling on good holds - the stand went pretty quickly and I had some good goes on the sit as well which was encouraging (7B would be a new grade for me, ignoring a route length linkup from days gone by).

Best three southern boulders

I’m actually not sure I have a good third one. I repeated some of the lovely stuff on Dartmoor, so could pick that as symbolic of a great day out, or Southern Soul because it’s pretty cool (albeit in style very much a pale imitation of liquid sun), but there’s not one thing which really stands out above others.

Top three dws/roped routes

Top three spankings
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2021, 12:24:11 pm

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!


You are the first person I have heard of actually persevering and getting on a route. We went for a look an decided it all looked a bit too grim to even get a rope out. I expect post pandemic it's even more overgrown.
I definitely did Centre Line on Jumbo's Bum Buttress and tried Forty Twa too but backed off that, mostly due to the boldness. The highlight of the day was walking behind a fox on the way back, for many metres before he realised he was being trailed!

I really should have got around to more stuff there there, Wallace's Cave looked fine.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2021, 01:26:23 pm
Christ this seems a long fucking time ago now... TBH I feel so fucking shit about climbing at the moment that if I hadn't written these all down (including UBB tags!) months ago, I might not have bothered.

Top 3 ledge shuffles:
Captain Mark Philips, Porthllechog - A sort of lifetime inspiration / intimidation thing even if I'd only recently heard about it. A shocking line that was quite a marathon rather than a sprint.
Last Of The Summer Wine, Red Walls - Pagan was a bigger classic experience, but LOTSW left it's mark for sheer Red Walls indulgence, especially creeping out of the disturbing cave into the delightful headwall.
Grazed And Confused, The Range - An absolutely definitive mini-adventure that has it all, devious line, tricky route-finding, spooky climbing, mini-exposure, the possibility of lowering straight into a zawn, etc etc...

Top 3 normal trad:
Clogwyn Yr Adar in general - Really should be in the top 3 sport maybe?? On my list for ages, the recent retro-bolt / revamp adding much more motivation, a lovely crag in a lovely setting.
Clotted Cream, Meadfoot Quarry - An early trad success that was a satisfying example of taking my sport warming-up into very suitable terrain.
Top Gear, Raven Threshwaite - A 14 year overdue revisit, this time in perfect weather. I was unsure about the weird line, and for that matter the distinctly dangerous groove, but it turned out worth it for some of the best rock and climbing in The Lakes across the shield...

Top 3 sport:
Ghengis Khan, Taff's Wells - Absolutely bloody lovely climbing up endless, off-vert, delicately featured rock.
Sven Vath, Attermire - Bolted Gogarth before bolted Gogarth became cool. Totally wild and totally underrated.
The Bloods, Marine Drive - A long time inspiration since the Redhead picture in And One For The Crow. Sturdy yet steady cranking, great fun.

Top 3 redpoint:
Deception, Lorry Park Quarry - Well named. Cool climbing with plenty of subtlety.
Walking With Barrance, Dinbren - Just really neat, genuinely good climbing.
Subterra, Nettle Buttress - As Mark20 said, the crux climbing is more like a bolted gritstone E6 (at least, I assume!). And therefore better than 99.9% than Peak Lime

Top 3 bloque Yorks:
Local Interest Only, Mytholm - National interest now cleaned?? An excellent blend of vert crimping and lanky highballing.
Photo Finish, Gilstead - A desperate siege, but also excellent quality, subtle in line and climbing.
Pochette Surprise, Deer Gallows - Pebbles, pebbles, smear, pebbles, pocket. As good as it gets.

Top 3 bloque Lancs:
Rusty Wall, Brownstones - Brilliant technical and committing highballing, well worth cleaning the finish.
Ressurection, Deeply Vale - Cool crimping and lurching, especially for the short
Ell's Arete, Wiltons - A neglected king line. 2 hours clearing a path to the top, 1 hour cleaning, 1 minute flashing this top class problem.

Top 3 bloque Peaks:
Geisterspiel, Rivelin Quarry - One of M20s best at the new Cuvier that is Rivelin Quarry. As good as aretes get.
Sunset Crack, Wharncliffe - And this is as good as Peak 6C slabs get. Just lovely.
Lessons In Depth, Woolley Edge - A diamond in the rough, really satisfying working out an involved sequence for an easier grade.

Top 3 bloque sandstone:
Self-Harmer, Harmer's Wood - Anything at Harmer's must be on the list somewhere. This was the most diverse and exciting, and I had to excavate it...
Third Brother, Grinshill - Brilliant, a techical delight of varied features, delicate footwork, head-smearing, etc etc
Queen Of Hearts, Harmer's Wood - Oh go on, more Harmer's. How about a V4 that took me 2 hours over 2 sessions. Great when it worked tho.

Top 3 bloque elsewhere:
Manor Crag in general  - An unusually aesthetic and line-filled limestone crag, giving the finger to the choss of Parisella's across the bay. Everything was great burly fun here.
Chwydd Llawtchwith, Moelfre - Really cool problem at a hidden gem crag, simultaneously fierce and subtle.
Terrine, South Hams - A rush to finish something good off in the baking heat before returning North, this unstarred gem was a highlight for aesthetics and quality.

Top 3 new routes:
Summon The Cracken, Cracken Edge - Pretty aesthetic.
Pirate Error, John Henry Quarry - An underrated wall that keeps on giving.
Broadside, Broadbottom Quarry - Good esoteric fun.

Top 3 new problems:
Tentacles, Cracken Edge - Lovely steady vert edging
Sailing The Seven Chodes, Maeshafn Quarry - An odd location and line, but good climbing.
Dim Chwydd, Moelfre - A very logical variant that makes for two great problems.

Top 3 4 5 spankings:
Depression - Grim. Not sure where this came from initially but the rest didn't help...
Golfer's elbow - The method for coping for depression was dialling back the faffy roped trips and focusing on power bouldering, and then I fucked it....
Sprained LCL - The method for coping for depression and golfer's elbow was dialling back the power bouldering and focusing on slabs and leg-intensive indoor bouldering, and then I fucked it...
Lingering sciatica - Not a big deal but I could do without it nagging away, and it doesn't help assess how my knee is feeling
Moonboard 6B+ - Okay so I did actually do one, after a multi-session siege that proved it harder than any 7A / + I've done outside. WhatEVER

Top 3 4 new UKBers ticked:
Pantontino - The man, the myth, the legend. I've got a lot of respect for the North Wales Mafia and it was a pleasure to meet the Godfather...
Reeve - Or 8b+ Reeve, rather.  A chirpy chap with good chat.... "It's not failure it's just deferred success".
Ru - An OG crimp waif. God knows how we ended up at the most esoteric hole in Clwyd (not my fault!) but it was good fun.
Bradders - Far too tall but also good fun and good vibes.

Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2021, 01:51:08 pm
Top three multipitch routes


Tucan Ausente (toucan missing) 7a (6a obligatory?), 260m, Riglos

All routes in Riglos are equal, but some are more equal than others. The most equal route might be the absolutely amazing Tucan Ausente. Climbed with my OH a windy and overcast day in April. It used to be a much feared route as the money pitch, the first 55 m of the 100 m tall headwall used to be protected by twelve pretty bad 8 mm bolts. They have been replaced by stainless 12 mm bolts. Unfortunately the rebolter(s) also added a few new bolts, especially at the beginning of the pitch, taming the experience a bit too much, imho. Still the two headwall pitches offer stunning endurance climbing on perfect pudding. I climbed through without stopping at the belay giving me 100 m of continuous climbing. I am not sure if Tucan refers to a bird or the now defunct belay device from Simond.


La Demande, 6a (6a obligatory), 330m, Verdon

I had surprisingly fun on this. Well polished so the cracks are quite comfortable on the skin. Feels like a mountain route, and I have forgotten how much I love this kind of stuff. My OH does not really enjoy these kind routes but I did it with a friend who does, which made me reflect on how important it is that both climbers in the seilschaft enjoy themselves on routes with even just a tiny bit of suffering. Made me psyched of wasting an OH-free day in the Verdon on ULA as well. (Normally I reserve OH-free days for routes she has a hard time to follow)

Dame cookie 8a+ (6c obligatory) 120 m + 60 m scrambling, Verdon

Too hard for me this time, but not that hard actually. Even though it climbs an impressive wall the route offers a pure sport climbing experience (easy to read, never more than a body length between the bolts, relatively short pitches, ludicrously soft grades etc.). Very nice climbing, similar to Margalef in style. “Nothing but jugs,” according to first ascensionist Bruno Clement. I could almost imagine myself trying to redpoint a multipitch route for the first time in my life.

Honorable mention: L'Ange en decomposition, 7a, Verdon
I have done it twice before, but this route is amazing every time. Unreal quality on a  sweeping pillar high above the bottom of the gorges. Made even better as this time my OH onsighted the crux pitch in great style.


Top three domestic single pitch routes

Elle va où elle veut, 7c+, Céüse

Despite being one of the very first single pitch routes on the Grande Face sector in Céüse this route is not at all polished. A relatively easy start up to some seriously technical stuff followed by a really nice section of physical climbing. Amazing rock. One of the best routes I have done in Céüse.

Les Petits Princes de l'absurde, 7c+, Céüse

Just to the left of, and a touch easier than “Elle va où elle veut”. Not so steep, but long reaches between OK-ish holds with not amazing feet. Like ”Elle va...“ it has some amazing climbing after the crux. I spend a lot of time on my o/s attempt gotten lead astray twice, but should be eminently onsightable with some luck and/or tickmarks. I was sufficiently tired to have to wait to the next day to attempt again.


Persifleur, 8b, Saint Antonin

Great crux followed by some nice strength endurance on a steep top wall. First 8b I have ever done quickly and without any fuss, so I might overestimate the quality a bit, but really pleasant climbing.



Top three Trans-pyrenean single pitch routes

Géminis, 8b+, Rodellar
The hardest route of the year has to go in somewhere, right? Right! I have no shame for this as it is also one of the best sport routes I have ever done. Very little sika, and what sika there is is not really necessary.

Gladiator, 8b, Rodellar
Also brilliant, despite having a manufactured crux. I fell of the top, after it joins Colosseum, lowered, rested 40 min and then hiked it in perfect conditions. I found this slightly easier than Legalization to its left but maybe a touch harder than Géminis one route over to its right. Just goes to show how much individual variation there is in subjective difficulty.

Bellavista, 7c, Bellavista/Sadernes

A big fight on the greatest route of the beautiful winter sector of Sadernes. Lots of route reading mistakes, but I was just strong enough to keep trucking.


Top three spankings

I had more spankings than I could shake my stick at this year.

Attention on vous regarde, 8b+, Saint Antonin. One of many 8b+ routes I failed to climb, but on this I failed the hardest as I never managed a meaningful link of neither the first section or the second section despite spending a good chunk of time on it. That we had horrible conditions through the entire autumn did not help, but I doubt any set of conditions would have seen me doing meaningful attempts on this route.

Chulilla, every single route but one. I have not really onsighted on single pitch crags for what feels like years. And yeah, Chulilla is soft, or so they say. At least it is if you sort the routes by number of ascents on 8a.nu and only climb routes from the first two pages. I have done most of those a long time ago, and only unpopular routes remain. Those kicked my ass hard. I also failed on some of the most popular routes of the area, such as La Bufa (fell on the fist move), Tequila Sunrise (pumped out about halfway up), Moon Safari (hilarious route-reading mistake almost at the top), El diablo viste de Prana (fell on last hard move), etc. I also managed to fall on a 7b and a 7b+. OTOH, my OH crushed and onsighted fifteen routes from 7b to 7c in two weeks. (Normally she onsights one 7b a year or so, and her previous best flash is 7b+ (1)). Finally I managed to get up Entre Dos Caminos by miracle and immaculate ticking from some unknown benefactor who had hung draws of perfect length. From general comments I understand that the route is comically soft but getting up the second tufa was a huge fight for me. Even the first tufa up to the horisontal felt tough. Also o/s El corral de la tia poya the same day, which felt hilariously hard for 7b+, so what do I know really.

Papy Boum, 7b+, Céüse. Fell on the eponymous Boom! move on the onsight and many times more until I finally got through. Not a spanking in the sense that I did not do it, but I had more attempt on this than on everything I have done up to 8a in the last ten years or so. Brilliant route. Bring small fingers or ability to jump.





Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: remus on December 29, 2021, 03:27:26 pm
Top three boulder problems, UK

eatswood Double Trav, ~8a+ sport. Shame it's a complete non-line as the climbing on it is so good and I had some great sessions getting it dialed in enough for the link. Probably one of my favourite pieces of grit climbing (because it doesn't climb like grit at all!)

Once Upon a time in the West, Lakes, 7B+. The icing on top of a great day out with my gf. Smashed around the easy circuit near the parking, gf dispatched her first 7A+ then wandered up to this and managed to scrape up it at the end of the day feeling totally cooked (30 problems in total).

Kudos, Rubicon, 7B. I've struggled on this in the past. Wandered over to rubicon after sacking off a session at Moat and did it first go  :clap2: I would say I'm glad I never have to do it again but the lime fiend in me wants to try Hot Fun Closing  :-\

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Didn't get up to much trad but squeezed in a few routes here and there.

Ships that Pass in the Night, Pembroke, E5. Not sure whether I've gone soft but the run out at the top felt fucking miles. So good latching the ledge though, proper adrenalin rush.

Life Assurance, Burbage South, E6. Went out for a casual boulder with a load of work friends. A friend was on it so I borrowed their harness for a quick top rope. Did it first go, tried the crux a couple more times then tied on and got it done before I could chicken out. Great grit experience, in essence pretty easy but just need to keep your head together.

Soloing days at stanage and burbage. I had a 'puerile ticker' goal this year of getting in to the top 25 busiest climbers on UKC (strike me down Ken) so I ended up having some fun afternoons out ticking off 30+ routes at a time. It was cool to explore some of the nooks and crannies in areas I thought I'd done a lot of the obvious lines.

Top three sport routes UK

Victorious, Yorkshire, 8a. Such a good line and pretty atypical of UK lime being powerful, pumpy and covered in knees. A right softy but you can't help but smile while smashing around above the lip of the cave.

It Can't Be Denied Direct, Dorset, 7b+. The hardest part of a big day out with Duma ticking a route at every grade from 1 to 7c at Hedbury. Absolutely battled my way through the super bouldery start and just about held it together for the top. The tank felt completely empty at that point, but Duma was an absolute hero and put the draws in the remaining hard routes (7a, 7a+ and 6c+) while I flailed my way up them. Some comedy scenes at the end where I nearly binned it trying to do a 6b+ after we panicked and thought we'd missed a grade.

Prison Sex, Portland, 7c+. This felt like a great taste of what Portland has to offer, it was a great fight putting this together, and the lash for the ledge is so cool! Previously I've struggled to get in to the climbing on Portland (conditions always seem a bit of a battle) so it was refreshing to be reminded of the quality on offer.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Only managed to get away once this year (woe is me) but it was a great trip with a cool crew and managed to climb pretty well as a bonus.

Orion, Kalymnos, 7c+. Easy pick for the #1 spot, just the sort of experience I was looking for in a flash and perfectly timed for building a bit of confidence at the start of the trip. I had some good beta from watching a few people through the crux but was free styling the last few hard moves which added some fun.

Racomello, Kalymnos, 8b. Again I got quite lucky as on my second session I bumped in to a chap who'd been working it for a couple of weeks so we swapped loads of beta (I managed to avoid feeling like a total leach by showing him some good knee bar beta). In the end it came together pretty quickly which was quite a relief, as last time I tried to project something in Kalymnos it was pretty stressful. And just so I don't forget, it's a friggin cool route too! A fun, powerful boulder in the bottom followed by some pumpy tech to the top.

Zeus, Kalymnos, 7c+. Pretty atypical stuff for kalymnos. I had a lot of fun questing around on the techy vert.

Top three misc.

DWS day around lydstep. I'd been sat in the van watching the rain all day so set off with very low expectations, only to be greeted with perfect DWS cons. I put my boots on and climbed for 2 hours straight (with a brief interlude to change crags). Every route seemed top notch but highlights included Perfect Pitch, Topology, Hairy Ball Theorem and Captain Caveman. Rounded it all off by ripping a hold off and getting in the soup for the first time of the season, perfect!

Bought a house with my partner. Bonus points as it came with 90% of a sweet double board setup already in the garage! Wasn't able to make a lot of use of it over summer but I've had so much fun on it the last couple of months.

Actually getting away on some trips. Mostly UK stuff but quite a relief after 2020.

Top Spankings

Doing a reasonable amount of DWS. Other than the above day at Lydstep I only got out for one other session (which was a piece of shit). Worst season in ages, made more excruciating seeing friends milk some great conditions later in the season.

Not going to font. The end of a 14 year streak of going at least once a year  :'(

Anything hard on a rope in the peak. Dabbled on a few harder things but lacked commitment, got a few options lined up for next year at least.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: GazM on December 29, 2021, 05:01:27 pm
Another year trying to make the most of the limited free time that a young family affords. Bouldering and projecting and staying local is pretty much all I manage but I'm lucky enough to keep finding stuff that keeps me psyched.

Top 3 new boulder problems:
On a snowy walk in January I unearthed an area above Loch Meig in Strathconon that's 15 mins drive from home that kept me entertained for the next few months and provided these highlights:
Third Wave 7Aish
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNniIQ1DOea/?utm_medium=copy_link
Horse of the Woods 7A+ish
https://www.instagram.com/p/CLkTjkhDPNZ/?utm_medium=copy_link
Further exploration nearby over the summer provided this little gem:
Latte Pappa 7Aish
https://www.instagram.com/p/CWysBURN1vS/?utm_medium=copy_link

Top new route
Flex E5 6aish

A short drive from home is an ex-crag called Meig Crag that has been all but lost to nature. After lots of cleaning and a bit of working on a rope I added this cool route to the list that will probably never be climbed again.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CO8UAH1j4FD/?utm_medium=copy_link

Top route
Journey Man's Wall E3 5c North Quarry, Somerset.
This meant quite a bit to me despite being on a pretty scrappy bit of rock in a hole in the ground. Fortunately it climbs far better than it looks and at 45m is a bit of a voyage. It's just down the road from where I grew up and I've always wanted to climb it after seeing 'real' climbers on it over 15 years ago when I was just starting out. Now my parents were moving away it's incredibly unlikely I'd ever be near it again. Despite it being the kind of thing I would have wanted to onsight back when I had time for that sort of thing I really enjoyed taking my time to clean it and get it dialled before getting a belay from my dad as his very first (and probably last) belay.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: moose on December 29, 2021, 05:22:41 pm
I didn't do any routes, so I'll expand the bouldering section beyond the traditional three.

Favourite Grit Boulders

The Flakes, Earl - this had been spitting me off for years.  I never thought I would have the shoulder beef to press out from the ramp, turns out lack of commitment was the main problem.

Ju Ju Club, Caley - another long-term target off the wish-list.  My efforts were rewarded afterwards by taking an unpleasant bounce downhill from Bens Groove.

Racing Raymond, Eldwick - nice tenuous climbing, well worth a visit (and Bradders' addition to the circuit, Hummingbird, is rather funky too).

Favourite Non-Grit Boulders

The Wilding, Dunnerdale - good techy crimping - very pleased to flash the stand and then manage the sitter first go.  Well worth the hour of stumbling around woodland trying to find it, and then getting feasted on by midges.

Butternut Squash, Woodwell - mainly included as it was so unexpected.  I had tried the previous year and never managed a couple of the moves, even in isolation.  I returned, after around 18 months of absence, feeling weak the day after my first A-Z shot, intending to just spend a day trying to remember my sequence for future reference.  To my complete surprise (especially as it was preceded by two hours of completely failing to repeat the "easy" parts) I got it done.

Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magik, Woodwell -  non-line of bum-scraping sideways action but rather involving.

Top Spankings

Tau Zero, Sour Milk - It wasn't a prolonged failure but I think breaking my wrist and being out of action for 2 months qualifies as a spanking!

https://youtu.be/Lue7j-Aql3I (https://youtu.be/Lue7j-Aql3I)

Techobabble, Virtual Crag - Okay, I did the problem, but it certainly spanked me afterwards!

https://youtu.be/-ulQarTNu8U?t=58 (https://youtu.be/-ulQarTNu8U?t=58)

Pit Problem, Trowbarrow - so much time invested in so few moves!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: turnipturned on December 29, 2021, 05:57:42 pm
Crickey, unlucky breaking your wrist Moose. That looked nasty!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Bradders on December 29, 2021, 06:24:10 pm
I think Moose claims the "Most Spectacular Ejects of 2021" award. Especially considering his Ben's Groove dismount as well, which I witnessed (read "probably should have been spotting") and can confirm was another biggy!!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2021, 06:58:50 pm
Remus, what about your top Geekiest Listage??
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: remus on December 29, 2021, 07:13:58 pm
Remus, what about your top Geekiest Listage??

You couldn't possibly expect me to choose between them?! That's like asking who is the favorite child...
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2021, 07:33:48 pm
That Lexicon fall analysis in "units of Ste Mac" must win some sort of award....
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 29, 2021, 10:31:10 pm
The biggest climbing revelation for me this year has been limestone bouldering. Having never bothered due to all the bad reviews it gets, i was surprised to find that I really enjoy it, just as much if not more than grit, and the best boulders I did this year were on lime!

Top three lime boulder problems

Synesthesia, Lound Hill

Long and varied, starting with toe/heel hook roof moves down low, to big crimpy throws at the lip, to techy locky vert moves high up before topping out. Good throughout on skin friendly rock and high enough to be a bit spicy. Favourite problem of the year. Preferred it only slightly more than colour of the sky, which it breaks off from half way up.

Elysium, Smeaton Edge

Immaculate rock, good line, good moves, tops out and reasonably high.
 
Midnight Caller, Earth Quarry

Climbs more like grit but skin friendly and doesnt need connies! Techy slopey moves up a good line. Felt soft to me, but lank & style.

Honourable mentions to white rabbit right hand (with topout!) On the Hueco boulder and Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale.

Top three grit boulder problems

Birdsong, Bradley Edge

Very unusual crux sequence - kneebar gaston crossover release! First time using a kneepad and performing a somewhat techy kneebar. Got some good shoulder doms following this one!

Archemedes, Norwood Edge

I had a bit of a battle linking this one despite it not being particularly power endurancy and slapping the top on my first session. I think it took 5 sessions in the end! This would be an absolute classic problem if it wasn't for the stepped landing situation, but it has nice movement, a hard crux and the rock is nowhere near as hideous as the rest of the crag.

Brass monkeys, Stanage

This couldn't suit me more. Quintessential roof compression. Didn't even try to not cut on the move. Class!


Top feats of strength

Freestanding handstand pressups - this was a challenge for the year and I managed to get them done on the floor and raised on paralettes.

Deadlift - since I began climbing 6 years ago I haven't trained these, or any similar exercises, but I still try a heavy lift every now and then just to see whether ive still got it. 200kg went up and it wasn't max. Job done.

Iron cross (progress) - no tick yet, but I can do a very slow negative on fully locked out arms, with a brief pause in the full cross position.

Top Spankings

Finger strength - up down up down up down. Despite seemingly able to just get stronger as I please in any muscle not related to finger strength, I just can't seem to make consistent progress that sticks with standard fingerboard protocols or any of the other wacky experiments I've tried.

Heaven in your hands - i've put more time into other climbs that ive not yet done, but armed with the knowledge HIYH is only 7B+ according to Will*, I went with decent connies, and the expectation that I'd probably get it done in the session. However, 3 hours later, i'd still barely got more than 3 moves in, and with 5 split tips, that was the end of my grit season.

*Yes I should have known better.

Side splits - glacial progress with 3 pulled muscles throughout the year. Maybe next year...


Top tactics

Portable fan - bouldered all summer and climbed a 7C sloper problem when it was 29°C (also see below).

Antihydral - this was a miracle cream through summer. I can honestly say I got up things that I wouldn't have done without it. I'm having to find the right balance now it's winter but this will forever remain in my bag of tricks.

Kneepad - I have strong, heavy legs and calfs, so it's nice thay they're no longer just dead weight sometimes.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wood FT on December 29, 2021, 10:45:14 pm
Apologies for the long and media-heavy post but this felt like writing a blog which I used to enjoy very much. I stopped climbing outside in September as we had our first child so I’ve climbed inside sporadically since then. Have I missed outdoor climbing? Not as much as I thought I would.


Top 4 boulder problems:  :strongbench:

Jack The Nipper 7B+, Anston.
Often in good condition during the winter months, I spent a few sessions down here under the big roof of Hidden Wall. Such was the ambience of the place in the low winter sun, I even enticed the Tor bound Shark for a session. This was lucky for me because he attempted an alternative sequence to the conventional big-slap method and I managed to climb the problem the following week using his beta. Thanks, Shark. My first of the grade and a lovely problem from Mike Adams too. Named after his son I believe.
 
Lightworker 7B, Levitt Hagg.
It took quite a few trips to find the big prow in condition but when I did, it didn’t disappoint. What a big lump! We glued a crucial hold into place which felt silly at the time, given the esoteric nature of the climb but it proved wise as the problem is now deservedly very popular and even featured in the popular YouTube series ‘Bouldering Bobat’ which isn’t to my taste, so here is my video of it instead /ego
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA

Hermit Arete SS 7B, St. Anchorites Rock.
Since my regular Devon trips started, I had wanted to find the perculiar lump of shist named the Hermit rock because it’s so close to my girlfriend’s family home. Ten minutes off classic narrow lanes deposits you parallel to the Southwest coastal path on a rather unmanaged section of it, given the many brambles (two pads is a nightmare through the plentiful stiles!) The ‘path’ up to boulder was completely overgrown and I started to question myself as a) it was midsummer and I’d already run out of water and b) it’s a Ted Kingsnorth first ascent, the keeper of the crimp. I pressed on, using my pad to surf jump the top of the shoulder-high thorn bushes, and made it to my own private summit. Luckily for me, I found an easier sequence (perhaps Ted was in holiday mode) and I got to climb the whole boulder. I scratched my way out and walked back to the van along the busy coastal path. I finished the day by driving to my favourite Devon crag (Torbryan) and doing some classics with a local mate.

Mo’s Undercut 7B+, Sprotbrough.

I had been biggin’ up the delights of Sprotty to all and sundry so it was with some glee that a bunch of friends arrived to check out its esoteric grips. I managed this on the day after a few sessions of failure, said friends then mostly all flashed it which made me doubt the grade but not the quality. If you haven’t been, check out Sprotbrough. Big shout out to Mike Adams for services to Maglime and Carl for the esoteric renaissance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg2JOW18F3Y

Top 3 Sport Routes:  :weakbench:

Drowning On Dry Land, 6c. Cheyne Cliff.
During a smeggy Dorset trip. A long, winding route with continuous interest and a big feel as you move around onto the arete. It’s just a shame the ledge is not long for this earth as the area feels slightly unstable.

Hard Torque 8a+, Lammergeyer Buttress WCJ.
A wonderful short new route from Kristian Clemmow. Sustained side pulls and crimps. I can’t categorically say that it is my first of the grade as the opinion of some is that it may be easier, at least on the Peak Lime scale. At this same crag, I enjoyed Vindicator but was quickly shot down by The Fall. I will focus on short routes next year. I’m at the end of this video, briefly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_pP842dJjs

Space Race 7b+, Malham Cove.
Had to stick this in as I had two bolt-2-bolt epics on it years ago where I was completely gripped and wanted to leave the crag once I came down. To climb such a brilliant route with ease and grace was a pleasure, even if I do say so myself.

Top 3 Rugby Games:  :popcorn:

England 27 vs South Africa 26
Revenge! Once slow coach Youngs had gone off (after a good game tbf) Raffi came on to complete this new-look England led by the electric Harlequin’s flyhalf, Marcus Smith. I am left feeling very positive about England Rugby with this team selection.
France 40 vs All Blacks 25
The rugby moment of 2021 was Ntamack running it from his own try-line into a no-look pass. Pure French chaos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3-N4q0e1qM
Exeter Chiefs 18 vs Saracens 15
A poor start to the season but pulled it together, for one game at least, against our arch-rivals.

Top Spankings::spank:

GBH.
 – How many years have I written this one down now? I started again in March, feeling stronger and more fluid on all the moves. Quickly built fitness and fell off with fingers rattling through the flake which marks the end of the hard climbing. Left it for the week after and spent the whole week visualising success, to the extent that I was talking up my chances of pushing on through the Well Dunne finish above. What a fool. Life became very challenging at work and I returned to Malham the following weekend pretty much hollowed out and clinging on to the positive distraction the big tick might be. I progressively fell lower and lower down on my RPs, finally falling lower than I ever have. Given my week at work previous, the seasoned redpointer would discount this session and move on. I just couldn’t face it again. There is no joy in going through the motions except on the toilet. I had a very quick go later in the year when a friend was on it but the sting of the holds just returned bad feelings. It is a brilliant route to try and I will always like to climb the whole thing but for now, I am not rounded enough for the style and pressure.

Mark of the Beast.
– A very different spanking was had here, positively S&M levels of enjoyment. Baby due imminently, I put all my eggs in one basket and spent 7 days in Dorset in August trying to get this done. Unfortunately, the smeg took away 5 of those days where I could only look at it from the ledge. However, come the bank holiday (and a DWS crew that could be entered into the hall of soup-based fame) I was getting on it, culminating in a fall 4 hand moves from the top (one move up from the slim pocket for those who know). I am extremely happy to have got there, throwing drop-knees in, committing to the route and a big, safe drop into the ocean. I drove home, sated. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAGOfliy2NQ

The decline of my climbing and rise in weight during early fatherhood.
I just haven’t found a way to juggle climbing yet but he’s only 3 months old so we are still just finding out feet. A mate has done me a plan for the new year, something I’ve never done, so we’ll see if I can keep on track. The weight gain is just the fact I’m sat down more, I’m drinking more and I’m getting older. I can control two of those things.

Well done on another year for the covid history books (the kind you skip or draw pictures on in school because it was quite dull).
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: edshakey on December 29, 2021, 11:11:29 pm
Antihydral - this was a miracle cream through summer. I can honestly say I got up things that I wouldn't have done without it. I'm having to find the right balance now it's winter but this will forever remain in my bag of tricks.

Can you expand on this at all? What you use, how often (regularly or based on when you need it), etc? Or even just where you learned it from!

I've got very sweaty fingers and have entertained this idea but know very little about it, so trying to gather a bit of knowledge, see if it would be worth it for me to explore properly.

If anyone else has similar advice to give, I'd love to hear it too, but don't want to derail the thread 
:off:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wood FT on December 29, 2021, 11:20:42 pm
Antihydral - this was a miracle cream through summer. I can honestly say I got up things that I wouldn't have done without it. I'm having to find the right balance now it's winter but this will forever remain in my bag of tricks.

Can you expand on this at all? What you use, how often (regularly or based on when you need it), etc? Or even just where you learned it from!

I've got very sweaty fingers and have entertained this idea but know very little about it, so trying to gather a bit of knowledge, see if it would be worth it for me to explore properly.

If anyone else has similar advice to give, I'd love to hear it too, but don't want to derail the thread 
:off:

I've got a spare tube you can have
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 29, 2021, 11:39:29 pm
Antihydral - this was a miracle cream through summer. I can honestly say I got up things that I wouldn't have done without it. I'm having to find the right balance now it's winter but this will forever remain in my bag of tricks.

Can you expand on this at all? What you use, how often (regularly or based on when you need it), etc? Or even just where you learned it from!

I've got very sweaty fingers and have entertained this idea but know very little about it, so trying to gather a bit of knowledge, see if it would be worth it for me to explore properly.

If anyone else has similar advice to give, I'd love to hear it too, but don't want to derail the thread 
:off:

If you know you have sweaty tips then based on my experience you should 100% be giving it a try. I'd say naturally my skin is moderate in terms of wetness, but as I'm a heavy lump and like boning down on crimps, the extra toughness that comes with the dryness from antihydral is great. 2 or 3 x per week through summer. I'm preferring 1x per week now it's cold but still experimenting. Be warned its pretty rubbish for smooth wood holds but that's just training, right?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: turnipturned on December 30, 2021, 08:29:50 am
Bit of a weird year, moved from Yorkshire after 10 years and moved back to the homeland to be closer to the fam. Massively miss Yorkshire but loving the lakes and running.

Top 5 boulders

Bouldering wise spent a lot of my time at the Bowderstone as I basically used it as my board/training.

Howling at the moon 8A, Great Wolfrey. big walk in, big wall, big line

Durham edition 8A, Flasby- mainly because I tried it a few times in the past and it felt nails. A basic as it comes and very unusual for grit. Doesn’t get much attention either.

Omega 8A, Chevin- another one that doesn’t get much attention and possibly second ascent. Fun times with James and Buck.

Stefan Grossman Sit 8A, langdale- randomly went after a failed mission to coniston. Never thought I could do the sit but Jonesy and I worked out some new beta which unlocked it for me.

Muffin Top 7C+, Garheugh- had a great family beach trip to the D&G coast. This thing is class.

Top 5 FA’s

Enjoyed doing a bit of development this year, I did get retro claimed a few times which was pretty funny.

Earn your stripes 8A, Small water- an newly discovered wall next to small water above Haweswater. Amazing wall, added a few things, this being the best.

Shadows, 8A, Pentire- some debate about this and the FA, nevertheless awesome little problem on a steep arete/prow.

Verna 7C+, Mardale head- another new venue discovered near Haweswater. Fun little steep wall. Named after my Gran who passed away earlier in the year.

To the moon 8A- Great wolfrey, shameless link up on the wolfrey wall, but combines to fantastic boulders.

Hell hath no fury 8A+,Hell moss, again debated FA (someone might have done it a day before), anyway totally basic board problem, good fun.

Top 3- Trad routes

Intended to do more… started well with backing off an E2!!

Scallop E7 or 7B boulder, Armathwaite- not sure what this is but it utterly amazing sandstone slab. Proper friction slab climbing!

Exorcist E4, Armathwaite- always wanted to do this as a kid, cool to do this with Alex and Birkett.

Geronimo E7, Shephards- another one we always looked at as kids. Cool route made even scary by cal belaying one handed with a broken wrist!!

Life

Eventually bought a house. What a crazy time to buy a house.

Expecting our second child in May. Exciting times.

Did quite a bit of running this year. Enjoyed it.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: RobK on December 30, 2021, 08:43:29 am
Antihydral - this was a miracle cream through summer. I can honestly say I got up things that I wouldn't have done without it. I'm having to find the right balance now it's winter but this will forever remain in my bag of tricks.

Can you expand on this at all? What you use, how often (regularly or based on when you need it), etc? Or even just where you learned it from!

I've got very sweaty fingers and have entertained this idea but know very little about it, so trying to gather a bit of knowledge, see if it would be worth it for me to explore properly.

If anyone else has similar advice to give, I'd love to hear it too, but don't want to derail the thread 
:off:

I tried this after Liam mentioned it on Power Club and it is an absolute game changer. Just a case of experimenting with what works for you. For perhaps the first time ever on a trip, when I went to Leonidio a few months back, my skin was not a limiting factor.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Will Hunt on December 30, 2021, 08:55:00 am
What product are people using? I thought it was all dodgy unmarked packages you had to get off the dark web.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: teestub on December 30, 2021, 09:05:49 am
Yeah it’s just called antihydral you can buy it off ebay or Amazon, also saw this link after a quick Google but looks too cheap to be true! https://www.pharmasana.co.uk/antihydral-salbe-70-g-00052729

One tube lasts years so works out v well price wise next to the Rhino stuff that has a lower percentage of the active ingredient.

Dialling in how often to use is key and this varies massively from person to person and throughout the year. For ref to compare to Liam I use around every 10 days in the summer and monthly, if at all in the winter. Better to err on the side of too little as your skin just starts sweating again, if you use too much you can get deep cracks in the skin.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: moose on December 30, 2021, 09:15:34 am
Jack The Nipper 7B+, Anston.
Often in good condition during the winter months, I spent a few sessions down here under the big roof of Hidden Wall. Such was the ambience of the place in the low winter sun, I even enticed the Tor bound Shark for a session. This was lucky for me because he attempted an alternative sequence to the conventional big-slap method and I managed to climb the problem the following week using his beta. Thanks, Shark. My first of the grade and a lovely problem from Mike Adams too. Named after his son I believe.

What's the alternative sequence?  I've tried this a few times - feels pretty trivial getting my LH on the "sugar cube" hold but the thought of that big uncontrolled slap freaks me out and I always retreat.

Re anti-hydral - it can be effective but you have to be careful.  Previous applications have made my skin so thick and leathery it lost friction (and that's with washing off after 10 minutes).  And, while the tips became tougher, if they did get cut, they seemed to take overly long to heal.  I still occasionally risk the stuff before extended trips (long weekends when I intend to boulder every day) but sometimes regret it when I end up dry firing off every hold!  A caveat with the above though is that I have very dry skin - I tried anti-hydral for the toughening properties rather than any sweatiness issues.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: ummagumma on December 30, 2021, 09:59:20 am

Re anti-hydral - it can be effective but you have to be careful.  Previous applications have made my skin so thick and leathery it lost friction (and that's with washing off after 10 minutes).  And, while the tips became tougher, if they did get cut, they seemed to take overly long to heal.  I still occasionally risk the stuff before extended trips (long weekends when I intend to boulder every day) but sometimes regret it when I end up dry firing off every hold!  A caveat with the above though is that I have very dry skin - I tried anti-hydral for the toughening properties rather than any sweatiness issues.

Re: caveat and reporting for the sweaty tips ( :wall:) contingent, anti-hydral is godsend for sweaty skin and more importantly longer skin durability.

Regarding original question on use, it's a good idea to under apply at first and built up as appropriate. I apply in the evening before climbing and don't need to apply much. I apply to the 1st pad and tip of finger all the way to the nail - you want the contact area with rock not to have a hardness boundary edge. The effect is dry and tough skin. On climbing day I found my skin a little 'glassy' at first but gets better over time... and way better than wet skin that tears up in no time. Been using it for 10 years now but generally only use it on trips or weekends where I am outdoors bouldering/climbing.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: duncan on December 30, 2021, 04:20:56 pm
Top 1 boulder problems
Apex, Sally in the Woods. Another candidate for surprisingly decent crags, screw your eyes up really tightly and you could almost be in Fontainebleau. Hat-tip to grimer, Boulder Britain pointed me here and several other places I'd never have considered.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNsWA_4DphO/?utm_medium=copy_link


Top 3 ‘new’ boulder problems
Taking the Waters and others on Knightstone Island. Rediscovered some youthful potterings, no retro-claims yet!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRKNtnYDWOb/?utm_medium=copy_link


Top 3 Sport Routes with ukb contributors
Armistice Day at The Cornice, with csl. Several visits here whilst house-hunting, as much fun for the social event as the climbing.
Do You Think I’m 6c, at Nudey Cliff, with Fiend. Sport climbing for die-hard trad. climbers and jungle explorers. Slightly disappointed to not see a Pterodactyl. 
Megalithic Man, at Horseshoe, with shark. Snatched an afternoon of decent climbing from a very unpromising day. Pleasantly surprised how good the main wall was here.


Top 3 Trad. Routes
A low water for trad. climbing in general, didn't have the mental bandwidth to push myself for much of the time. These two trips and one to The Pass stand out like car headlights on an dark country road.
Shibboleth with Wil. The perfect route for me: history, a tick, off-vertical, bold in places, brilliant.
Ichabod and Central Buttress with Hugo. A great day and a great weekend camped up high on Scafell.


Top 3 surprisingly decent crags I’d not been to before 2021
This could easily be expanded, the silver lining of the first year spent entirely in the UK since the late 90s.
Llanymynech Quarry. Not even on my radar before this year. So big it straddles two countries and very decent for the connoisseur of easy vertical sport climbing (like me).
Culver Cove: North Somerset esoterica with knobs on: a 25’ high 45 degree wall of sandstone, absolutely nothing like anything else in the area.
Raven Tor. It’s not bad and could become quite popular with a bit more publicity. Fell off the same move at 15’ several times and then went home. Felt like I fitted in immediately!


Top 3 spankings
Foil - one hand on the (wrong part of the) top of the crag. The only time I tried hard on a trad. route all year and it was very satisfying. Don’t know why I didn’t do more of this, well I do, and I’ll be trying a bit more in 2022.
Covid - pretty obvious but has to be said. Thought I was going down the chronic fatigue path for a couple of months but very fortunately dodged that one. Still running out of puff a lot easier than BC. I’m a whole lot better off than many and it shouldn’t affect rock climbing much. Good job I’m not a fell runner or mountaineer.
The Move Out Of London - got almost as close as on Foil and but consumed considerably more time, mental energy, and money.


Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wood FT on December 30, 2021, 04:31:51 pm
Jack The Nipper 7B+, Anston.
Often in good condition during the winter months, I spent a few sessions down here under the big roof of Hidden Wall. Such was the ambience of the place in the low winter sun, I even enticed the Tor bound Shark for a session. This was lucky for me because he attempted an alternative sequence to the conventional big-slap method and I managed to climb the problem the following week using his beta. Thanks, Shark. My first of the grade and a lovely problem from Mike Adams too. Named after his son I believe.

What's the alternative sequence?  I've tried this a few times - feels pretty trivial getting my LH on the "sugar cube" hold but the thought of that big uncontrolled slap freaks me out and I always retreat.

Take the sugar cube as a gaston with RH, high LF and LH roll over to a pinch, RF into big pocket (quite blind) and slap for sloper with RH. Finish as normal with a silent nod to Shark and Robin Barker.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: iain on December 30, 2021, 05:06:52 pm
This is my favourite thread of the year, lots of inspiration for the year ahead.

Thoughts for those going through shitness, and very cool to read about those getting out the other side.

Can you expand on this at all? What you use, how often (regularly or based on when you need it), etc? Or even just where you learned it from!
I learned it from Fiend via his blogpost many years ago and started with what he did. Don't use it at all in winter to 2-3 times a week midsummer and it works a treat:
https://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/06/keeping-it-dry.html

and @Wood FT, thanks for the beta, was going to ask but moose beat me to it.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: remus on December 30, 2021, 05:07:15 pm
Top 1 boulder problems
Apex, Sally in the Woods. Another candidate for surprisingly decent crags, screw your eyes up really tightly and you could almost be in Fontainebleau. Hat-tip to grimer, Boulder Britain pointed me here and several other places I'd never have considered.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNsWA_4DphO/?utm_medium=copy_link

That's some impressive imagination you've got, not sure anyone's made the comparison between sally and font before! :lol:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ged on December 30, 2021, 05:17:29 pm
Apologies for the long and media-heavy post but this felt like writing a blog which I used to enjoy very much. I stopped climbing outside in September as we had our first child so I’ve climbed inside sporadically since then. Have I missed outdoor climbing? Not as much as I thought I would.


Top 4 boulder problems:  :strongbench:

Jack The Nipper 7B+, Anston.
Often in good condition during the winter months, I spent a few sessions down here under the big roof of Hidden Wall. Such was the ambience of the place in the low winter sun, I even enticed the Tor bound Shark for a session. This was lucky for me because he attempted an alternative sequence to the conventional big-slap method and I managed to climb the problem the following week using his beta. Thanks, Shark. My first of the grade and a lovely problem from Mike Adams too. Named after his son I believe.
 
Lightworker 7B, Levitt Hagg.
It took quite a few trips to find the big prow in condition but when I did, it didn’t disappoint. What a big lump! We glued a crucial hold into place which felt silly at the time, given the esoteric nature of the climb but it proved wise as the problem is now deservedly very popular and even featured in the popular YouTube series ‘Bouldering Bobat’ which isn’t to my taste, so here is my video of it instead /ego
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA

Hermit Arete SS 7B, St. Anchorites Rock.
Since my regular Devon trips started, I had wanted to find the perculiar lump of shist named the Hermit rock because it’s so close to my girlfriend’s family home. Ten minutes off classic narrow lanes deposits you parallel to the Southwest coastal path on a rather unmanaged section of it, given the many brambles (two pads is a nightmare through the plentiful stiles!) The ‘path’ up to boulder was completely overgrown and I started to question myself as a) it was midsummer and I’d already run out of water and b) it’s a Ted Kingsnorth first ascent, the keeper of the crimp. I pressed on, using my pad to surf jump the top of the shoulder-high thorn bushes, and made it to my own private summit. Luckily for me, I found an easier sequence (perhaps Ted was in holiday mode) and I got to climb the whole boulder. I scratched my way out and walked back to the van along the busy coastal path. I finished the day by driving to my favourite Devon crag (Torbryan) and doing some classics with a local mate.

Mo’s Undercut 7B+, Sprotbrough.

I had been biggin’ up the delights of Sprotty to all and sundry so it was with some glee that a bunch of friends arrived to check out its esoteric grips. I managed this on the day after a few sessions of failure, said friends then mostly all flashed it which made me doubt the grade but not the quality. If you haven’t been, check out Sprotbrough. Big shout out to Mike Adams for services to Maglime and Carl for the esoteric renaissance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg2JOW18F3Y

Top 3 Sport Routes:  :weakbench:

Drowning On Dry Land, 6c. Cheyne Cliff.
During a smeggy Dorset trip. A long, winding route with continuous interest and a big feel as you move around onto the arete. It’s just a shame the ledge is not long for this earth as the area feels slightly unstable.

Hard Torque 8a+, Lammergeyer Buttress WCJ.
A wonderful short new route from Kristian Clemmow. Sustained side pulls and crimps. I can’t categorically say that it is my first of the grade as the opinion of some is that it may be easier, at least on the Peak Lime scale. At this same crag, I enjoyed Vindicator but was quickly shot down by The Fall. I will focus on short routes next year. I’m at the end of this video, briefly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_pP842dJjs

Space Race 7b+, Malham Cove.
Had to stick this in as I had two bolt-2-bolt epics on it years ago where I was completely gripped and wanted to leave the crag once I came down. To climb such a brilliant route with ease and grace was a pleasure, even if I do say so myself.

Top 3 Rugby Games:  :popcorn:

England 27 vs South Africa 26
Revenge! Once slow coach Youngs had gone off (after a good game tbf) Raffi came on to complete this new-look England led by the electric Harlequin’s flyhalf, Marcus Smith. I am left feeling very positive about England Rugby with this team selection.
France 40 vs All Blacks 25
The rugby moment of 2021 was Ntamack running it from his own try-line into a no-look pass. Pure French chaos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3-N4q0e1qM
Exeter Chiefs 18 vs Saracens 15
A poor start to the season but pulled it together, for one game at least, against our arch-rivals.

Top Spankings::spank:

GBH.
 – How many years have I written this one down now? I started again in March, feeling stronger and more fluid on all the moves. Quickly built fitness and fell off with fingers rattling through the flake which marks the end of the hard climbing. Left it for the week after and spent the whole week visualising success, to the extent that I was talking up my chances of pushing on through the Well Dunne finish above. What a fool. Life became very challenging at work and I returned to Malham the following weekend pretty much hollowed out and clinging on to the positive distraction the big tick might be. I progressively fell lower and lower down on my RPs, finally falling lower than I ever have. Given my week at work previous, the seasoned redpointer would discount this session and move on. I just couldn’t face it again. There is no joy in going through the motions except on the toilet. I had a very quick go later in the year when a friend was on it but the sting of the holds just returned bad feelings. It is a brilliant route to try and I will always like to climb the whole thing but for now, I am not rounded enough for the style and pressure.

Mark of the Beast.
– A very different spanking was had here, positively S&M levels of enjoyment. Baby due imminently, I put all my eggs in one basket and spent 7 days in Dorset in August trying to get this done. Unfortunately, the smeg took away 5 of those days where I could only look at it from the ledge. However, come the bank holiday (and a DWS crew that could be entered into the hall of soup-based fame) I was getting on it, culminating in a fall 4 hand moves from the top (one move up from the slim pocket for those who know). I am extremely happy to have got there, throwing drop-knees in, committing to the route and a big, safe drop into the ocean. I drove home, sated. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAGOfliy2NQ

The decline of my climbing and rise in weight during early fatherhood.
I just haven’t found a way to juggle climbing yet but he’s only 3 months old so we are still just finding out feet. A mate has done me a plan for the new year, something I’ve never done, so we’ll see if I can keep on track. The weight gain is just the fact I’m sat down more, I’m drinking more and I’m getting older. I can control two of those things.

Well done on another year for the covid history books (the kind you skip or draw pictures on in school because it was quite dull).

Re. Hermits arete, nice one. I went for a look once combined with a run along the coast. I bottled it without a pad, imagine crawling through those brambles with a broken ankle! What's the easier sequence?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wood FT on December 30, 2021, 05:26:04 pm
Apologies for the long and media-heavy post but this felt like writing a blog which I used to enjoy very much. I stopped climbing outside in September as we had our first child so I’ve climbed inside sporadically since then. Have I missed outdoor climbing? Not as much as I thought I would.


Top 4 boulder problems:  :strongbench:

Jack The Nipper 7B+, Anston.
Often in good condition during the winter months, I spent a few sessions down here under the big roof of Hidden Wall. Such was the ambience of the place in the low winter sun, I even enticed the Tor bound Shark for a session. This was lucky for me because he attempted an alternative sequence to the conventional big-slap method and I managed to climb the problem the following week using his beta. Thanks, Shark. My first of the grade and a lovely problem from Mike Adams too. Named after his son I believe.
 
Lightworker 7B, Levitt Hagg.
It took quite a few trips to find the big prow in condition but when I did, it didn’t disappoint. What a big lump! We glued a crucial hold into place which felt silly at the time, given the esoteric nature of the climb but it proved wise as the problem is now deservedly very popular and even featured in the popular YouTube series ‘Bouldering Bobat’ which isn’t to my taste, so here is my video of it instead /ego
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA

Hermit Arete SS 7B, St. Anchorites Rock.
Since my regular Devon trips started, I had wanted to find the perculiar lump of shist named the Hermit rock because it’s so close to my girlfriend’s family home. Ten minutes off classic narrow lanes deposits you parallel to the Southwest coastal path on a rather unmanaged section of it, given the many brambles (two pads is a nightmare through the plentiful stiles!) The ‘path’ up to boulder was completely overgrown and I started to question myself as a) it was midsummer and I’d already run out of water and b) it’s a Ted Kingsnorth first ascent, the keeper of the crimp. I pressed on, using my pad to surf jump the top of the shoulder-high thorn bushes, and made it to my own private summit. Luckily for me, I found an easier sequence (perhaps Ted was in holiday mode) and I got to climb the whole boulder. I scratched my way out and walked back to the van along the busy coastal path. I finished the day by driving to my favourite Devon crag (Torbryan) and doing some classics with a local mate.

Mo’s Undercut 7B+, Sprotbrough.

I had been biggin’ up the delights of Sprotty to all and sundry so it was with some glee that a bunch of friends arrived to check out its esoteric grips. I managed this on the day after a few sessions of failure, said friends then mostly all flashed it which made me doubt the grade but not the quality. If you haven’t been, check out Sprotbrough. Big shout out to Mike Adams for services to Maglime and Carl for the esoteric renaissance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg2JOW18F3Y

Top 3 Sport Routes:  :weakbench:

Drowning On Dry Land, 6c. Cheyne Cliff.
During a smeggy Dorset trip. A long, winding route with continuous interest and a big feel as you move around onto the arete. It’s just a shame the ledge is not long for this earth as the area feels slightly unstable.

Hard Torque 8a+, Lammergeyer Buttress WCJ.
A wonderful short new route from Kristian Clemmow. Sustained side pulls and crimps. I can’t categorically say that it is my first of the grade as the opinion of some is that it may be easier, at least on the Peak Lime scale. At this same crag, I enjoyed Vindicator but was quickly shot down by The Fall. I will focus on short routes next year. I’m at the end of this video, briefly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_pP842dJjs

Space Race 7b+, Malham Cove.
Had to stick this in as I had two bolt-2-bolt epics on it years ago where I was completely gripped and wanted to leave the crag once I came down. To climb such a brilliant route with ease and grace was a pleasure, even if I do say so myself.

Top 3 Rugby Games:  :popcorn:

England 27 vs South Africa 26
Revenge! Once slow coach Youngs had gone off (after a good game tbf) Raffi came on to complete this new-look England led by the electric Harlequin’s flyhalf, Marcus Smith. I am left feeling very positive about England Rugby with this team selection.
France 40 vs All Blacks 25
The rugby moment of 2021 was Ntamack running it from his own try-line into a no-look pass. Pure French chaos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3-N4q0e1qM
Exeter Chiefs 18 vs Saracens 15
A poor start to the season but pulled it together, for one game at least, against our arch-rivals.

Top Spankings::spank:

GBH.
 – How many years have I written this one down now? I started again in March, feeling stronger and more fluid on all the moves. Quickly built fitness and fell off with fingers rattling through the flake which marks the end of the hard climbing. Left it for the week after and spent the whole week visualising success, to the extent that I was talking up my chances of pushing on through the Well Dunne finish above. What a fool. Life became very challenging at work and I returned to Malham the following weekend pretty much hollowed out and clinging on to the positive distraction the big tick might be. I progressively fell lower and lower down on my RPs, finally falling lower than I ever have. Given my week at work previous, the seasoned redpointer would discount this session and move on. I just couldn’t face it again. There is no joy in going through the motions except on the toilet. I had a very quick go later in the year when a friend was on it but the sting of the holds just returned bad feelings. It is a brilliant route to try and I will always like to climb the whole thing but for now, I am not rounded enough for the style and pressure.

Mark of the Beast.
– A very different spanking was had here, positively S&M levels of enjoyment. Baby due imminently, I put all my eggs in one basket and spent 7 days in Dorset in August trying to get this done. Unfortunately, the smeg took away 5 of those days where I could only look at it from the ledge. However, come the bank holiday (and a DWS crew that could be entered into the hall of soup-based fame) I was getting on it, culminating in a fall 4 hand moves from the top (one move up from the slim pocket for those who know). I am extremely happy to have got there, throwing drop-knees in, committing to the route and a big, safe drop into the ocean. I drove home, sated. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAGOfliy2NQ

The decline of my climbing and rise in weight during early fatherhood.
I just haven’t found a way to juggle climbing yet but he’s only 3 months old so we are still just finding out feet. A mate has done me a plan for the new year, something I’ve never done, so we’ll see if I can keep on track. The weight gain is just the fact I’m sat down more, I’m drinking more and I’m getting older. I can control two of those things.

Well done on another year for the covid history books (the kind you skip or draw pictures on in school because it was quite dull).

Re. Hermits arete, nice one. I went for a look once combined with a run along the coast. I bottled it without a pad, imagine crawling through those brambles with a broken ankle! What's the easier sequence?

Yeah they’d eventually just find your bones up there.

Sequence was arete then flake work up the crack just right. It’s the same as Ted’s sequence in his video but I did it in current dad form so it felt too easy for 7B. Classy moves and rock  though.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Bradders on December 30, 2021, 05:49:17 pm
Bit of an essay....

Top 5 Boulders
- Crusis Full, Almscliff;
I've waxed lyrical about this on here already. It really is brilliant though. Done on an utterly perfect afternoon too. I have it on video but am holding off posting it online anywhere until a few other people have done it, simply because finally figuring out what to do was such a total joy.
- Kindergarten Wall, Caley; I was there for a session on Ben's but it just wasn't happening, so had a go on this. One of those fun experiences you often get with highballs where you just get closer and closer til you do it. The successful go was proper heart in mouth stuff, popping dynamically to the pocket and just sticking it, before having to rapidly calm down for the top which was less of a path than I'd have liked, sans spotter, at the time!
- Like a Hurricane, Chevin; a nice way to check in on something else mid-Ben's-Sit-siege and find that I really was going quite well. Hard moves on this and some really small holds, so not entirely pleasant but good to know the power was there.
- The Matador, Attermire; two absolutely stunning days out with some good company (plus one wasted trip in full gop which we won't talk about) to get this done. Fantastic climbing in a beautiful spot on good rock, what more do you want?! Stupidly dropped it matching the top from the low start so will have to go back; what a chore! ;)
- Who Are We Without Moon Sit, Baildon; quite a unique problem in that climbing from the sit is almost entirely different to the stand, not to mention it being a great sequence in itself. Successful go was very memorable being one of those all too rare (for me) moments where you feel like you're off on every move, but somehow still make it to the top!

Top 5 Routes
- Daylight Robbery, Chee Dale Two Tier;
really enjoyed this one, fun powerful climbing low down into a technical little headwall sequence. A great day out too with a good mate, nice conditions, the crag to ourselves, both did the route, etc. A pair of Apache gunships flew right down the dale too, which my inner 8 year old enjoyed a lot.
- Subculture, Kilnsey; the one project I managed to get over the line. Perhaps "get better at sealing the deal" should be on my 2022 aims list. A good route anyway, great climbing all the way, and my first 8a. Particularly good to feel the progression in my endurance, as I only just about squeezed across the traverse on Slab Culture, having milked a knee bar rest, earlier in the season. To go from that to pissing it and recovering on every hold having finally got through the first 4 bolts of much harder climbing on Subculture was great.
- Comedy, Kilnsey; first 7c and it's just really good isn't it. Done quickly as well which as a boulderer was good for my ego!
- Quiet Flight Direct, Kilnsey; the rollover is maybe the best move I did on a route this season. Just perfect.
- Visitation, Kilnsey; the longest route of the year and therefore well out of my comfort zone. Great varied climbing too from the powerful start to the techy finish.

Life
- Married my wife on a beautiful day in April, having waited a full year from our original planned date in 2020. She'd sadly spent a considerable amount of time beforehand struggling with pregnancy related nausea, so the fact that she was actually well enough for it after all that made it extra special.
- The birth of our daughter Sage in September doesn't really need much more saying. She's great. Yesterday I spent an hour and a half after work just holding her whilst she slept, and was completely content; never imagined I'd do something like that before!
- That said, I'm dead pleased with how I've managed to juggle things this year. This might sound like a brag but it's not meant to, I'd really like it to be helpful to someone, and these feel like big wins which is what this thread is all about! Since Sage was born I've; climbed probably the best boulder problem I did this year, also one of my hardest of the year; managed several new fingerboard PBs; climbed the hardest problem I've done so far on my board; had one of my best ever sessions on Ben's Sit; and repeated a solid benchmark problem on the Pudsey Depot 50 on my first visit in over a year. Keeping going with my climbing was 100% the thing I worried most about with having a child, but so far, touch wood, it's manageable. Working from home and having my shed are both massively helpful here; fingers crossed the former sticks around.

Top Spankings
- Ben's Groove Sit, Caley;
where to start! 20 sessions this year, to add to the 9 from previous years. For most of those it felt like it could go at any attempt, so I told myself to just keep turning up. In hindsight I wonder whether a better tactic might have been to go to it one session in three or four maybe. The stats are a bit ridiculous; I've done the stand c. 60-70 times, fallen off in the stand or on the transition into it c. 20 times, did it from 3 moves in to the top 9 or 10 times. But just could not get it done. Again, sealing the deal is maybe something to work on! The big positive was sharing so much of it on Instagram stories, with loads of people chipping in with support, encouragement and heckling. I do think when I next go back I'll keep it to myself though, as I wonder whether this added pressure in the end. And I suppose I can't complain too much about having such an incredible problem still to do at my local crag.
- Dominatrix, Kilnsey; only had two goes on it but it makes the list just because my first go up was so awful. Came down slagging the route off to all and sundry, wanting to quit sport climbing. Massively out of my comfort zone this but would like to have a rematch next season. This is what I visualise during aerocap sessions now.
- Keelhaul, Almscliff; a bit annoying as it's the obvious "achievable on paper" 8 that I've not done at the Cliff, but for the life of me I just cannot seem to do the big move to the lip. Especially frustrating as the climbing either side of that move feels very repeatable, and everyone else seems to do it without too much trouble.
- Blockhead, Chee Dale Two Tier; felt like I ought to be able to do this quickly, as it's basically just a long boulder problem (I managed to put in all the quickdraws, bar the lower off, from the ground!), but ended up having 3 sessions and didn't do it. To be fair 2 of those were after having done other things, and the other was on a warm day with the sun threatening, but still.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Duma on December 30, 2021, 06:01:16 pm
As always, best thread of the year. Thanks everyone for the psyche!
Have ended the year on a bit of a low, psyche wise, but looking back has reminded me of what was actually a really good year with some great high points.

Best of Avon (/lockdown):
Was great to spend time down here during the first lockdown, and a boost to see familiar faces from the bristol scene when otherwise at home a lot.
The Prince 8a+, Avon
2 bolt scrappy wall, but I got so much fun out of it over a couple of months - easily shuntable and I went back after doing it to try and work out an even more direct sequence (sadly broke a sprag) Good to belay a mate on it a while later for his hardest tick too.
The Prince (RH) 7C?, Avon
Still on the same bit of rock, this time took the RH line which makes it a little easier and a lot more doable over mats.
Was it You? 7c+, Avon
The best thing of its grade I've done, pretty much perfect vert tech, and the hanging belay adds to the atmosphere. took long enough to really savour, but not so many sessions I got frustated.

Best Retro Ticks
Stuff I did a long time ago but a bit of time on the south coast meant revisiting some classics
Empire of the Sun 7b+, Ansteys
This may not be technically a retro tick, as despite being sure I did it bitd, it's not in any of my logs from then. Still, awesome as ever.
Haunted by a Million Screams 7a, Dorset
In as representative of all the Dancing Ledge stuf I reclimbed this spring/summer, and cos I barely scraped up what is basically a jug haul.
Disco's Out, Murder's In 6c+, Dorset
Another one at Dancing Ledge, exhausted on the last day, worked out a ridiculous feet first sequence through the initial roof, good to remember to do stuff the fun way.

Best Boulder (and boulder problem)
Breathe 6C, Spernic Cove, Cornwall
Great lump of serpentine in a lovely location, bit terrifying as I had no mat and the sand was low so my landing was head sized rocks, but made the experience all the sharper.

Best of Pembroke (/trad)
The Gong E1
The gong really is amazing, and the climbing ain't bad either.
Preposterous Tales E2
Everything I'd hoped, on an amazing BH weekend with a great crew
Razzle Dazzle VS
So hot I was dripping, but 50m of wonderful slabbing, followed by watching the seals in a crystal clear sea while belayng my mates up is hard to beat.

Best Of Kaly (/abroad)
Elizabeth 7b, Sikati Beach
A bit stop-starty, with two hands off rests, but first tricky route here, and amazing steep finish to the belay right at the top of the beak.
Alfredo Alfredo 7b+, Odyssey
Glorious, probably the best thing I did here, just got the flash with full spray down from Remus, despite having flayed myself on Orion earlier in the day, felt like a bonus!
Tomboy 6b+, Sikati Beach
Amazing sheet of flowstone, what the best bits of Portland wish they were.
Dirlandia 7b+, Secret Garden
First tricky flash of the holiday, got through the lower crux by the skin of my teeth, then an amazing sit down rest on a huge tufa, and a pumpy top section that was hard enough to keep my trying hard and unsure of the outcome.

Best Day
All the grades to 7c at Hedbury with Remus. Was fantastic to get the level of challenge just right to keep things in doubt until the last few routes
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: tomrainbow on December 30, 2021, 06:07:29 pm
Top 3 New Routes UK

Yukon Gold (7b) - Potato Head
The left arete of the Main Wall. Very pleased how this one turned out.

A Mash Made in Devon (7c) - Potato Head
Leftovers from last autumn, a protracted affair that should have been finished off before the seepage came through but fell off eyeballing the lower off.

Horse Pieces (7b) - The Nudey Cliff
40m long monster straight up the middle of the Tower of Suggestion to the left of the existing climbing, four distinct sections each harder than the last...at least it's not as terrifyingly exposed as its left hand (6c) neighbour.

Top 1 Existing Route UK

Poitin (7c) - Potato Head
Ged's new route from the early summer proved to be a great incentive to get the left hand end of the crag opened up...one way or another spent most of the summer ensconced in the potatoey goodness on offer at this end of the crag.

Top 3 Sports Climbs in Spain

Hola Que Tal (7b) - Rincon de Sin
A wonderful ten day getaway to this lesser known region and a first visit to the frankly awesome Rincon de Sin. I could have happily have spent all ten days there. Of the routes we did, flashing this was the highlight.

El Esquimazu (7b) - Rincon de Sin
40m of tufa goodness - fantastic sequences interspersed with reasonable resting opportunities in ever more outrageous positions. What you go to Spain for.

F.A.R (7a+) - Foradador del Toscar
Loved the technical puzzle solving of this thin wall - old school climbing at its best. This area needs a new guidebook - we had information on probably <25% of the routes at this crag, some of the new stuff looks great.

Did some bouldering in the spring mainly at Red Dragon Ridge and Wray Cleave. Lots of new stuff but nothing too significant.

Love this thread...keep them coming!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: remus on December 30, 2021, 07:16:34 pm
Sounds like some fun routes you and Ged have put up at Potato Head Tom, psyched for a dabble when Im next down that way.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: edshakey on December 30, 2021, 07:21:20 pm
This might sound like a brag but it's not meant to

No harm in a brag in the Best Of thread! Sounds like you had a great year, inspiring to hear someone come out of a year like that, stronger than ever.
In general, amazing stuff all round from everyone, it is a nice way to force positivity out of even a crap year.

Re. antihydral, cheers for all the tips (terrible joke? Not even sure it qualifies as that). I'll read Fiend's blog and have a look into it all, but definitely sounds like something I could make good use of. Wood FT, I'll drop you a message on here.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: iain on December 30, 2021, 07:43:56 pm
I started the year in a bad place mentally with no psyche for climbing, and was only doing any at all because of a good friend.
Then spring came around and I started going out just to spend time with friends, next thing you know I've had one of the most enjoyable years of climbing of my life, it's been brilliant.


Top 3 4 Trad Routes


Spent the year mostly reminding myself how it all works with the mentals, gear and tactics with some great partners and fab days out.

Where Eagles Dare, Scoor, Mull

During the cold snap in April/May, a perfect day and a perfect cliff. This was my third lead of the day and year and despite thinking I didn't stand a chance collected the rack and started wobbling my way up. It was an awesome mix of controlled terror, gear fiddling and really lovely climbing. An amazing spot:
https://imgur.com/uw6SVM5

Phantom Rib,  Clogwyn y Grochan
Snatched the 2 hours of sunshine and dryness on an otherwise sub par day which put a smile on my partner's face while she was going through hard times. The climbing was really good too.

Bloodlust Direct, Sheigra
A jug filled upper wall, bomber gear and the sun setting over the sea as I topped out combined with 5 days of midge free camping overlooking the beach. Scarcely believable but it happened. Sadly didn't manage to sample the bouldering (which looks amazing) but did climb at Sandwood bay which was fun if not Sheigra quality.
 
Delicatessen, High Tor
What a cliff! I couldn't believe I hadn't been here for so long, 5 or 6+ years, and it's not a place I can just turn up to despite the decent mileage I'd been getting in before.
Third visit I finally felt I'd earned the right to get on this, really surprised I hadn't before. Inevitably I made things harder for myself by misreading the route, fiddling with gear way longer than I needed to, and pulling far too hard while standing on bomber feet. It was great.


Top 3 Boulders

Dawid's Eliminate, Hueco Boulder, Nearcliffe Woods
Such a lovely bit of rock, shame there's not more of it.
Probably the hardest thing I did this year but still way easier than it's given grade for me. A surprisingly quiet day in the woods doing this and White Rabbit SS, and massively satisfying to find ways through moves that initially felt beyond me. Also did it on that last, battered but best go of the day.

The Pinch, Sheep Pen, Ogwen
I don't dyno, so when Andy suggested we look at a dyno I wasn't keen but thought I might learn something. After an hour of learning nothing we were about to move on when last minute a change in feet had me catching the lip and topping out. So not my usual thing but it felt amazing to do.
https://imgur.com/TcNkbPw

Ultimate Warrior stand, Pont Gyfyng, Cwm Pennant
How could you not try it for the name alone! The sit was beyond me and the real star but the stand was a lovely thing, my favourite style and in a beautiful spot. Had a great day trying hard on this as well as pottering around nearby:
https://imgur.com/N4dmZbK

Honourable mention, reclimbing Jocks and Jordies SS at Kyloe In after 12ish years. I love that climb and the place, and massive thanks to whoever made the new fence and gates happen during the logging.


Top 3 Sport Routes

Didn't manage to do a huge amount this year but still had a few memorable routes.

Whose Line is it Anyway?, the Cornice
I had no idea whether this was realistic when I started up, and honestly first go I felt shambolic, but figured out a sequence which went round what most folk think of as the crux and was genuinely surprised when I managed to claw my way to the top next go. The bouldering was paying off.

The Omen, Harpur Hill
Neil said it looked wet but stubborn me thought I'd give it a bash anyway. Sure enough I had to agree when I found myself picking snails out of the crack before seating the jams.
Weirdly satisfying and enjoyable, and despite the location felt like getting on a sea cliff too early before the smeg had been burnt off. Made the best of an otherwise shitty weather day.

Exorcise, Masson Lees
It looked like it had one of those dyno things I don't like but I got talked into trying it and a deadpoint arrived instead. Cool climbing and nice to get it done before more of it falls off.


Top 3 2 spankings

Freedom, Craig y Forwyn
None of my mileage had prepared me for going horizontal along a roof crack with uninspiring (to me) pegs for company, would've been well up for one of those nice drilled titanium ones. Somehow made it through the first pitch then got thoroughly spanked by the second 'easier' vertical pitch and yarded up the gear.

Lily Savage, Ogwen
A 'classic' shouldn't have an eliminate and nasty start (that I couldn't do ...)


Roll on 2022 ....
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Hoseyb on December 30, 2021, 08:24:11 pm
A good year where a lot of long term projects and ambitions got put to bed. In terms of actual hard work, I don't think I was any fitter or stronger, but I tried hard. Also I felt the blood sweat and tears of previous years have cultivated this year's successes. A pretty good harvest.

Saying all of that, I haven't tied on a rope outdoors except to brush highballs so these are bouldering lists.

Top 3 repeats

George's Crack
Ogwen
Several sessions, several years. Stopped trying to get flexible, got technical, got grizzly.
Black country crack
Parc Dudley
3rd go. 1st of second session, first where the top was actually dry.
Maneater
Talfarach
1st proper go. Really enjoyed this offwidth, a goldilocks bloc that never feels like it's going to kill you, but doesn't roll over either.

Top Three FA's

Tosheroon
Benllech
Again this ascent was definitely built on the bones of previous flailings with a bit of red mist thrown in. An anachronistic challenge that may never see another suitor, but at least if it's always wet the only conditions that matter is whether you can feel your hands?
40ft of horizontal squirming 8ft off the deck.
The Shard
Cwmfynnon
Several years of building the courage to try this highball, then being overconfident last year and spannering myself off the top. The subsequent gaffa tape cast and hobbling my gear out the wilderness. Friends support and help portering the ample paddage required to get me trying again. A good mental journey.
Barcode Punk
Porth Howel
Something I've tinkered with in an area I've tinkered with for many many years. Something clicked this year and I unlocked the crux for the first time. Then started a war of attrition that was thrown into cease fire by the rising pebble levels.
I bought a rake.

Top 3 Spankings

Trying to exit Porth nefoedd directly from nefoedd wide boy

Nefoedd wide boy

Both tape gloves actually ripping off my hands on a previous Tosheroon attempt





Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 30, 2021, 10:27:19 pm
Dawid's Eliminate, Hueco Boulder, Nearcliffe Woods
Such a lovely bit of rock, shame there's not more of it.
Probably the hardest thing I did this year but still way easier than it's given grade for me. A surprisingly quiet day in the woods doing this and White Rabbit SS, and massively satisfying to find ways through moves that initially felt beyond me. Also did it on that last, battered but best go of the day.

I can't think of another boulder quite like the left hand side of the Hueco, it has such interesting holds, but Elysium is worth a look in if you want more impeccable lime. It felt similar in difficulty to me, perhaps marginally harder. The block just to the left of it is pretty good too with some easier problems.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: tomrainbow on December 31, 2021, 09:10:02 am
Sounds like some fun routes you and Ged have put up at Potato Head Tom, psyched for a dabble when Im next down that way.

Cool, always keen to show off the latest offerings.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on December 31, 2021, 09:40:02 am
Funny old year.

Started the year full of hope, new job after redundancy, but then lockdown and school closing again and back to home schooling which was just grim midwinter. This time round I stuck to the rules which only said don't leave Aberdeenshire so;

top 3 descents;

1) Morven - wanted to do this on skis for ages, but rarely snow low enough. Did it it on a lovely day, a bit windy at the top, but great snow on the south side, and fun traverse round to the front with mountain hares breaking cover all around.

2) Pannanich Hill & Craig Vallich the weekend after the mega dump it was clear the hairdryer was getting turned on and it was all going to shit, so me and mate headed up Deeside with a few spots in mind, the main issue though was that snowploughs had left 6 foot piles of snow in any available layby or parking place, so we ended up parking in Ballater town centre, and walking over the Dee Bridge to pick up trails through forest. Felt very continental. Snow cover great, and perfect turns in places, but blowing a hoolie on the tops, making stashing skins a bit of a challenge (if you've ever been slapped in the face by a damp sticky ski skin you'll know what I mean)

3)Cairn Mon Earn With the unusual amount of snow, a couple of mates decided to do a headtorch raid on a local hill. We all took boards and hiked through the woods to the top, breaking trail through knee deep drifts in places. From the top the phone line cut through the trees leads straight down to the parking, and the snow was perfect for the top 2/3 but a bit sticky on the boggy ground lower down, cue much comedy wipe outs an rolling about. Fantastic memorable evening.

Top 3 existing problems;

Two Peaches Boltsheugh -  Yes, it's an eliminate, but in the right conditions with the right beta it took me 3 sessions to get it done  (I did it first session but using wrong holds, second session the top was too wet).

Golden Brown SS I did the crouch start back in November last year, but never got the sit. I went for a solo session and managed to work out the beta and do the crux, but a damp hold near the top made me bottle / slither off and avoid the the scary top out. Went back 2 weeks later with spotter and better conditions and did it. Then surprised myself by doing it again this month in spite of not a lot of climbing.

Crimp Another eliminate at Boltsheugh, one big move in another out. Strangely satisfying.

Top 3 new problems

Spotted 2 new* bouldering spots on a kayak trip with a mate one morning, which was pretty much the focus of most my climbing over the summer.

Pick of the dozen or so new probs are probably

Swelterweight 6B  (or so) burly start under roof to tricky mantel and airy top

Right Uppercut 6B (or so) sitter under roof and steep pulls onto shelf followed by committing but easy topout

Undercard 6C / 7A (or so) full low traverse of the crag with one power section and one fingery section at the end to a hard rock around to finish.

oh yeah, top spankings

Other place I spotted; nice looking wall with some shallow pockets on the left side, and some nice crimps on the right. Can't get my ass of the ground on either of them! Might get some strength up and weight down and give it another try now conditions are cooler.

Never tied on, never left Scotland so not much else climbing wise.

Other highlights -

Finally getting 50km Ultra done - managed in spite of ankle being pretty bad before race and hip flexor injury since.

Getting enthused for some hillwalking this year, and managed 14 Munros, distances up to 18km (unintentional). They have always seemed to enjoy the days out.

Did some lovely SUPing in East Lothian when we had a week of great weather there. It's a beautiful area with some amazing coast.

Changing jobs. Gave it a good year but the 40 hour working week and 5 days a week commute was just a bit too much. Hopefully can settle into this one for a stretch.


Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: RobK on December 31, 2021, 09:49:03 am
That said, I'm dead pleased with how I've managed to juggle things this year. This might sound like a brag but it's not meant to, I'd really like it to be helpful to someone, and these feel like big wins which is what this thread is all about!

Solid year Bradders! And don't apologise. From someone who is approaching that stage, it's nice to hear a note of optimism in amongst the wave of 'your life is going to end'.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: BrutusTheBear on December 31, 2021, 09:53:12 am
Shadows, 8A, Pentire- some debate about this and the FA, nevertheless awesome little problem on a steep arete/prow.
I feel I should speak up for my buddy here... There's not really anything to debate about this though is there? Mikey C got there before you and Andy Haley repeated before you albeit starting from lower holds than yourself.  (I saw the video footage of both their ascents months before your claim).
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ged on December 31, 2021, 10:12:07 am
Sounds like some fun routes you and Ged have put up at Potato Head Tom, psyched for a dabble when Im next down that way.

Cool, always keen to show off the latest offerings.

I'm quietly confident you'll think the new routes are amongst the best in Europe. Safe to say Tom?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on December 31, 2021, 10:58:03 am
I think all of us here assumed that the best sport routes in Europe would be on South Devon conglomerate  :yes:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ged on December 31, 2021, 11:03:39 am
A wise assumption.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ged on December 31, 2021, 11:29:49 am
A lean year climbing wise, but a few peaches

Bouldering: did hardly any apart from failing on Devon sent, but did alexis' Cider Press direct at hopes nose, which i think is the hardest sequence I've ever done. Took a lot of sessions and a freezing cold January day to execute 4 moves.

New routes: Gnocchi on Devons Door (8a+ maybe) was an absolute peach, and had great fun working it with Tom during the brilliant conditions in March and April. Brilliant sustained climbing, about 27 moves from knee bar to top, fell off the very top a couple of times. Would love to see someone else on it and let me know if I'm deluded on grade and quality. Poitin was also great, 7c and just excellent climbing. Bolted and worked mainly on my own during a fairly tricky period of my life, and this really helped.

Other sport routes: really enjoyed doing Tom's routes at nudey cliff in the spring to get fit for the potato head project. 5 of the best low 7's around.  Also really enjoyed lord of the fries at potato, one of the best there.

That was about it for climbing.

Running: enjoyed getting out in Pembroke in the summer early mornings while the family slept, and then a brilliant few big runs along the exmoor coast. Never explored this area before and was blown away by it. Reasonable time in the dartmoor volcano race, and then family stuff and illness put paid to any more.

Life: came to terms with not being able to do loads of climbing over the next few years whilst kids are little. But realised as long as I can at least run regularly, I'm fine. Also realised I need to work a lot less.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: iain on December 31, 2021, 11:36:48 am
I can't think of another boulder quite like the left hand side of the Hueco, it has such interesting holds, but Elysium is worth a look in if you want more impeccable lime. It felt similar in difficulty to me, perhaps marginally harder. The block just to the left of it is pretty good too with some easier problems.
Cheers Liam, added to the list of things from here that I need to go have a look at.


I really like conglomerate   :-[
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: BillyTheMountain on December 31, 2021, 12:13:00 pm

Top 4 boulder problems:  :strongbench:

Hermit Arete SS 7B, St. Anchorites Rock.
Since my regular Devon trips started, I had wanted to find the perculiar lump of shist named the Hermit rock because it’s so close to my girlfriend’s family home. Ten minutes off classic narrow lanes deposits you parallel to the Southwest coastal path on a rather unmanaged section of it, given the many brambles (two pads is a nightmare through the plentiful stiles!) The ‘path’ up to boulder was completely overgrown and I started to question myself as a) it was midsummer and I’d already run out of water and b) it’s a Ted Kingsnorth first ascent, the keeper of the crimp. I pressed on, using my pad to surf jump the top of the shoulder-high thorn bushes, and made it to my own private summit. Luckily for me, I found an easier sequence (perhaps Ted was in holiday mode) and I got to climb the whole boulder. I scratched my way out and walked back to the van along the busy coastal path. I finished the day by driving to my favourite Devon crag (Torbryan) and doing some classics with a local mate.

Re. Hermits arete, nice one. I went for a look once combined with a run along the coast. I bottled it without a pad, imagine crawling through those brambles with a broken ankle! What's the easier sequence?

I've got a beta vid here:
https://youtu.be/D8tDsCzwS0U

Didn't feel too bad this way, although I never know if I'm getting stronger or if things are soft.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: 36chambers on December 31, 2021, 02:30:29 pm
- Kindergarten Wall, Caley; I was there for a session on Ben's but it just wasn't happening, so had a go on this. One of those fun experiences you often get with highballs where you just get closer and closer til you do it. The successful go was proper heart in mouth stuff, popping dynamically to the pocket and just sticking it, before having to rapidly calm down for the top which was less of a path than I'd have liked, sans spotter, at the time!

I'm glad that my cleaning was worthwhile. All that carpet pulling and I couldn't even touch the problem in the end...
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Bradders on December 31, 2021, 02:53:49 pm
- Kindergarten Wall, Caley; I was there for a session on Ben's but it just wasn't happening, so had a go on this. One of those fun experiences you often get with highballs where you just get closer and closer til you do it. The successful go was proper heart in mouth stuff, popping dynamically to the pocket and just sticking it, before having to rapidly calm down for the top which was less of a path than I'd have liked, sans spotter, at the time!

I'm glad that my cleaning was worthwhile. All that carpet pulling and I couldn't even touch the problem in the end...

Hell yeah, gracias amigo.

Definitely easier the taller you are. Even I had to go dynamically and I'm a giant according to Fiend  :lol:

I'd love to do Freak Technique but the start is absolutely nails!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: teestub on December 31, 2021, 02:58:01 pm
Have you done Wainwright’s Wobble? Would love to do that one.

Ibbo was at his peak grit bouldering prowess when he did Freak Technique so the grade may be a little off!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on December 31, 2021, 03:20:30 pm
But realised as long as I can at least run regularly, I'm fine.

This is true, but beware the slippery slope!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ged on December 31, 2021, 03:23:02 pm
But realised as long as I can at least run regularly, I'm fine.

This is true, but beware the slippery slope!

Where does it lead?!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: 36chambers on December 31, 2021, 03:28:50 pm
Thin year in terms of quality, but there was a lockdown and then I got carried away with sport climbing.

Top 3 grit
- Ron’s Reach 6B, Caley. After years of looking at it, I finally threw a rope down it and gave it the good scrub that it deserves. Such a brilliant climb. Like a bigger, better, and harder Otley Wall.
- The Arete f6B+, Caley. The leaning, and surprisingly tall, arete just down from Ben’s Groove. Spent a lot of lockdown filling in the gaps on the easier stuff that I’ve neglected, and it was great pottering about with no real agenda. Enjoyed figuring this one out, whilst trying not to simply strength my way through it.   
- Dead Baron 8A, Shipley Glen. Was never too bothered by the look of this, but figured out a sweet lil sequence that makes the climbing very enjoyable. I need more hard grit, that doesn’t split tips, in my life.

Top 3 non grit
- Texas Hold Em' 7B+, Trowbarrow. First technical knee bar I’ve ever done/tried and I felt like I was big Jimmy Webb crushing some American V15. Every move felt desperate in isolation, but then I did it fine first RP :-\. Great to do some novel moves.
- Jerry’s Roof (tourist) 7B+, The Pass. Been snowed/rained off this 3 times in the past 7(?) years, so it’s nice to actually get on it without the clouds racing down the mountains. Big thanks to Yetix for the beets, who knows how long it would have taken me to figure it out myself for the nth time.
- Saturn 7A+, Milestone Buttress Boulders. Having gazed upon this and the other high aretes previously, it was great to end the day here (alongside Ross Barker :wave:) and get the heart going a little. Not half as wild as I was expecting, but that’s often the case.

Top 3 sport
- Raindogs 8a. The only sport route I’ve ever wanted to do... mainly because for the longest time it was the only non-wad one I could name, and because I’d like the idea of doing something in the middle of Malham, a place I fondly remember visiting as a kind. Anyway, as expected it was terrifying at first, but once I started RPing I started to enjoy falling off, and was actually happy to slap the chain and take the full ride. Although, thankfully that only happened the once.
- Subculture 8a. Was originally avoiding this because Will Hunt's done it. But it ended up being by far the least intimidating of the harder problems around that area and my partner was keen for WYSIWYG. It's also pretty good.
- Comedy 7c. Went up once at the start of my sport season and found it terrifying. Came back a few months later, armed with a short clip stick, and managed it second go. Progress.

Top 3 trad (since I actually did some)
Central Climb VS, Almscliff. First trad route in years. Forgot how much faff it is. Malham and Kilnsey did not prepare me for this, absolutely boxed.
Crackaroo S, Brimham. First climb of our Dirty Dozen off width day and it was great fun realising that I had absolutely no idea how to generate upwards movement.
- Desperation Crack HVS, Brimham. Our 4th climb of the Dirty Dozen? Seconded TTT up it, which was great to watch, and by this point I had a vague idea about what I was doing.

Top 3 FAs
Proud Mary 7B. A small hanging prow that was looking rather unlikely until I discovered you can do the entire thing off a hidden toe hook, whilst letting the other leg flail around. From looking impossible to being sat on top with a big smile on face within 30 minutes.
A Fistful of Heather 6C. Low start still to go.
Flake Arete 6B. Probably a First Recorded Ascent.

Top 3 spankings
Allakazam 6c, Kilnsey. Think this was the first route I tried at Kilnsey, got scared, rested on a rusty peg, probably off route, thought I was going to die. Absolute shambles. 
Vicious Streak 7C+, Caley. Moves felt easy, but then I obliterated my knuckles firing off it. A month, and many plasters, later came back and did the exact same thing, but worse, again. fml. 
The Drey 7C, Caley. Fell off the top first go, pulled on and proceeded to slice my entire fingertip off. Right in the middle of bon con one March :’(. All that careful skin managed undone in a split second. Pun intended.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: 36chambers on December 31, 2021, 03:58:37 pm
Have you done Wainwright’s Wobble? Would love to do that one.

Another one I cleaned up but couldn't do. Could never quite reach the sloper and I don't think I went back after someone pushed me to it and I realised the hard part still wasn't over.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on December 31, 2021, 05:24:53 pm
But realised as long as I can at least run regularly, I'm fine.

This is true, but beware the slippery slope!

Where does it lead?!

Marathon ? Ultra? Neglecting climbing for convenience?  After not running for nearly 30 years I just enjoy a) the ease of not fretting about conditions and just putting on running gear and going regardless of weather. b) the linearity of more effort = better result, unlike the numerous variables of improving at climbing at my age.   
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Bradders on December 31, 2021, 05:59:29 pm
Have you done Wainwright’s Wobble? Would love to do that one.

Ibbo was at his peak grit bouldering prowess when he did Freak Technique so the grade may be a little off!

No, was there when Turnbull was trying it and he's the only person I know of who's done it apart from Ibbo obviously. Sure he muttered something about "at least 7C".
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: spidermonkey09 on December 31, 2021, 06:05:34 pm
Great reading these, keep em coming!

This has been a decent year for me. I managed a good chunk of both sport and trad climbing, did some harder routes but never felt like I was properly sieging them, and managed not to get too stressed about it whilst I was doing it.

Sport

Malham routes

As has been the case the last few years I spent a lot of time here.

Austrian Oak - I had a brilliant time trying this in the spring. Felt like I was close quite quickly and then fell off near the end for ages. Eventually managed it third go of the day feeling utterly broken; no idea how. Glad I didn't try this a few years ago as I wouldn't have got anywhere.

Vogue - this would be considered better than Baboo if it was given 8a I think (which it is!). Great tufas to a really hard crux sequence. The left wall delivers again.

The Great Escape - I'd had my eye on this for several years and it was as good as I'd hoped. It was also pleasing to feel way stronger on the Cry Freedom middle crux than I had last autumn which made it feel immediately more feasible. I spent a few sessions falling off the top in sweaty conditions before doing it as soon as it got crisp, on one of those amazing redpoints where everything just feels easy. Just as well as it was wet a week later and never dried back.

Elsewhere

Urgent Action - made heavy weather of this but got there in the end. It really is so good - a mixture of Rodellar jugs and Yorkshire technicality. Continued my theme of binning it at the top for ages before doing it. Good to try hard at Kilnsey as its a crag that really challenges me.

Cave Route Left Hand - immediately after doing Urgent it got really hot so I went to Gordale over the weekend. I felt utterly awful on the Saturday, could barely bolt to bolt it and couldn't touch the crux. The next day I sorted the crux, got through it and wobbled to the chain. I have absolutely no idea how I didn't fall off in the top crack; I was already castigating myself for fucking up the sequence before realising I was still on!

Lost In Thought & Lost In Time - really impressed with this, quick hit before going for a swim in Stainforth Force, which has to be one of the best spots in the Dales.

North Wales Trad
Did a lot of trad climbing this year so decided to be generous and double up.

Right Wall - I fell off this years ago and a return was overdue. Josh flawlessly onsighted it before I got horrifically pumped, missed a crucial cam placement and was convinced I was about to take the ride again! Fortunately I nailed a few crimps and made it to the girdle, where I recovered, called in Josh's beta for the top and finished the job. Far from perfect style but having already fallen off it I don't care; I've wanted to do it for years.

The Troach - loved this on a freezing windy day up at Cloggy. Comedy protection for much of it but steady climbing. I love that modern gear hasn't really tamed it.

Oxine - fuck me this was incredible. Surely one of the best VS' in the UK? Glory jugs up a gently overhanging wall for 25m - couldn't believe how good it was.

Pembroke Trad

Just Another Day/ Scorch The Earth - one of many great routes in a roasting week in Pembroke. This one felt good as I felt totally in control the whole way, had time to work things out and enjoy it.

Sinecure - perfection. Incut holds, good gear, elegant moves. I loved Barcud, great to go there for the first time. Swimming off the rocks at the base completed the day.

Snozwanger - an early start to beat the sun on our last day in Pembroke. I thought this was a brilliant route but really enjoyed belaying Sophie up it as her first clean E1 second as she had to really graft for it. The high point was nearly knocking herself out removing a wire, which hit her right in the eye. Shouting 'I can't see!' and understandably distressed I could see an epic incoming, but she sorted herself out and finished it off. A good route to finish the trip on (the eye was fine!).

Grit Bouldering

I found choosing these really hard as I've done a lot of grit bouldering this year.

Goosecreature - on the way to Shining Cliff through heavy snow it started coming down again and I resigned myself to a snowy walk. Parked up the bottom (the hill was an icy deathtrap) and wandered up the road and through the woods to the problem. Astonishingly it was dry and by then had also stopped snowing. I cut back through the woods to the van, skidded up the icy road to the parking and got the pads under it. Came together pretty fast in the mint conditions but I kept dropping the top move. I was running out of skin fast and kept missing the pads as I fell off but caught the final crimp just as it was getting dark. The van just about made it out of its icy tomb and i freewheeled back down the hill praying I wouldn't need to brake sharply. Perfect grit day.

Mallard Sit - the stand is good enough but the sit made it even better. Brilliant moves on perfect rock, nobody else there and a frisson of adrenaline from dodging the farmer and walking around the pheasant pens.

Andy Browns Wall - last go best go; a real bonus at the end of the day after failing to stick the top move for an hour.

Lime Bouldering

Down & Out - a great day at Sprotborough with Matt, Guy and the Sheffield gang. This was really satisfying as I had to do a different sequence to the lanky strong folk but a drop knee got my onto the headwall. Above a sea of pads and vocal support I just about made it to the top. Great problem.

Neds Problem - lovely and flowy in good conditions; the moves on this are so good. Good to only live an hour from Trowbarrow now.

Fine Beta - objectively not very good but I enjoyed a run of sessions at Anstons and on mag lime in general and this marked the end of them. A sachet of that isotonic goo got me over the line.

Big Days Out
Strans Gill and Crook Gill - on Will Hunt's recommendation my partner and I braved the waterfalls on a hot day. Absolutely brilliant and highly recommended!

Western Walls - a brilliant day in Range West. The walk over to the crag is stunning, through wildflower meadows, a beach and a river crossing. The crag itself is just ridiculous- everything looks E5 but is actually Severe! Every route we did was great. As good as the Wired guide suggests it is.

Gambit Climb, Reade's Route, Crib Goch - a brutal walk up the hill to the base of Gambit Climb which was in heavy fog wasn't a great start, but the climbing was amazing and once we got above the clag it got better and better. Wandered over to Reade's Route which was absolutely wild and involved a ridiculously exposed step off a detached pinnacle (not HVD...) before finishing by descending Crib Goch and back to the car.

Spankings

eatswood Traverse - sunk a lot of sessions into this in the early part of the year and got one move from the end but couldn't finish it. Got really frustrated with the persistent condensation and the crag also gave me a savage splinter in my thumb which took months to work itself out of my hand! To top it off the access situation has worsened so who knows if I will ever get this finished!

Parker Sit - my lankier, stronger friends did this rapidly before I failed on it all day in warm conditions. Eventually sorted a sequence only to be out of beans. C'est la vie.

Pretty Girls Make Graves - fresh from knocking off a few E5s Josh and I thought it was worth a go. I barely made it to the pocket and couldn't touch the headwall. We were both so knackered by the end we drove home 2 days earlier than planned!On the plus side the ground up is still on...

Life

After being stuck in Leicester for 18 months it was a massive relief to move back up North in the spring, and to top it off managed to complete on our house purchase before Christmas. With any luck I won't have to deal with lettings agents, estate agent or solicitors again for several years. I also started a PhD and quit my old job so overall not too bad on the life front!



Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 31, 2021, 07:09:31 pm
I'll take eatswood trav off my list then as a very unfit boulderer... i would have expected you to path it (fitness)! Although I've only been to have a look at it when Bradley was wet and haven't actually pulled on. Did you milk the knee?

I do like the look of the highball stumble stop repeat nearby! Shame about the access problems.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: IanP on January 01, 2022, 01:03:43 am
After a year like 2021 (and 2020!) this thread is even  more pysche inducing than normal so thought I sould my contribution.

Strange year for me in that should have had plenty of opportunity to climb but coronavirus, family stuff and some irritating virus type illnesses (not covid afaik) during the latter part of summer reduced what I got done.  However did manage to get enough good days out to make me look forwards to next year.

Top 2 boulder problems

Actually did a bit of bouldering this year as covid restrictions lifted - stayed local and enjoyed a bit of time at the Wiltons, not the best venue in the world but the style (and the friendly grades!) suited me.

Pigs on the Hoof 7A+, Wilton 2. Traverse that is probably nearer to 7a+ tbh, but good techy moves and a view variations for extra interest.
Slipstream sit 7B, Wilton 2.  In a bit of dank pit put good moves mixing strenuous and balancy.. Did the stand and then spent an interesting hour or so putting the sit together.  Overgraded but I guess worth 7A which would make it my first outside for a few years.

Top 3 sport routes

Ten Year Fog 7c, Devils Gorge.  Relatively early season, unusually good conditions for the Gorge helped this go down quite quickly.  Powerful lower crux followed by some pumpy climbing on the upper wall to a finishing move that's probably the wildest I've done on a route dynoing to the very top of the crag.

Hell's Angle 7b, Lorry Park Quarry.  Consolation after I found I just couldn't pull on the weird small crimps on Good Time Emporium.  Maybe not the best route in the world but good lower wall and went direct via some funky moves on a sloping ledge which ended up easier than they first appear (my partner chose the cop out rh variant  :-\ ). 

Cave Route Righthand 7b+, Gordale.  One on my list of classic 7b+s I inexplicably haven't done.  Been twice in previous decades but failed each time on the steep, pumpy but weirdly balancy climbing high up.  Spent 2 days in only really hot week of the year and went down 1st rp on second day.  Great route and good scenes at the crag - I love Gordale, just wish there was more routes there.

Top 1 belay

Climbed quite a bit with my daughter Amy this summer who had a really good late summer/autumn.  Finished on an indifferent late October weekday when we made a touch and go decision to go back to Deep Rake where she'd been working My Body is a Stemple.  She warmed up putting the gear in and then went for it, cruised the lower crux section, rested for ages in the break then held it together on the steeper upper section, despite a close thing with footwork mistake, for her first 7b.  Don't think I've ever felt so invested in a belay!

Top 3 spankings

Quite a few choices here  :-\

Lost in Thought and Time 7b+, Attermire.  Not so much a route spanking, had a decent redpoint attempt getting high up on the headwall and really enjoyed it, one to go back for.  Unfortunately the day didn't end so well with poor communication about stripping / changing gear on the route leading to me trying to sort stuff out at the bottom of the crag in a typical clumsy fashion and falling over landing on my knees.  Initial thoughts that I was OK changed as the blood ran down my left leg - fortunately someone had plenty of first kit and managed to patch me up.  Got home and went to A&E where a 4 hour wait meant I decide to do some self repair which worked out in the end except for a bit of scarring.

Dominatrix 7c, Kilnsey.  First time at Kilnsey in a few years and at a time during late summer when I seemed to be suffering from some ongoing virus fatigue.  Spanking doesn't quite describe how badly I failed on the steepness and flat holds of Dominatrix, I said to someone at the crag that for me if that was 7c then CRR was about 7a+!

Free and Easy 7a+, Malham.  Took Amy to Malham for the first time in September, she had a good day getting close on Bolt Revolt, my Malham game was miles off.  Had to redpoint Free and Easy and finally got it second go.  Positive scenes at the crag and somebody said I looked really smooth on the rp, which would have been nice if hadn't climbed it about 50 times in the 00s when I was a regular at Malham and used it as my warm up!





Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 01, 2022, 01:19:22 am
Some great blogs/logs here.

Thin year in terms of quality, but there was a lockdown and then I got carried away with sport climbing.

- Raindogs 8a.

- Subculture 8a.

- Comedy 7c.

Progress.


That's pretty impressive. You certainly did get carried away  ;D  :boxing:


Great reading these, keep em coming!

This has been a decent year for me. I managed a good chunk of both sport and trad climbing

Gambit Climb, Reade's Route, Crib Goch - a brutal walk up the hill to the base of Gambit Climb which was in heavy fog wasn't a great start, but the climbing was amazing and once we got above the clag it got better and better. Wandered over to Reade's Route which was absolutely wild and involved a ridiculously exposed step off a detached pinnacle (not HVD...) before finishing by descending Crib Goch and back to the car.


What a rich year you've had Spiders  :great:

Just picking out one of your entries.
It's a great expedition to start with Main Wall on Cyrn Las. I think I carried on round the rest of the Horse Shoe the other way IIRC. A great day out.

At the risk of going cross-thread I love the efficiency :
2 x 8A
10 x ≥7C
side splits

There's a lot of depth in that  ;) I'll go for a sitting straddle to handstand.
Perhaps you should add "Don't drop my bike"!  :thumbsup: Happy riding for 2022.

And from TomTom (from 2021):

8A

Maybe you should get that tattooed on your left buttock TomTom ;D




Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: reeve on January 01, 2022, 12:12:10 pm
Essay-time here, soz. Great reading everyone else’s. Some places I haven’t heard of which look great, really making me excited for this year!

Top three boulder problems, UK
Monobulge, Burbage North – normally not a fan of compression, but how could anyone not love this? Heels, cool holds, long enough to get you gasping, and an exciting finish.
Sunset crack, Wharncliffe – not a crack, and hidden from the sun amongst the trees. A perfect angle for techy padding.
Look at me! – not to everyone’s taste, but right up my street. A beautiful sunny Spring day, circuiting round Cratcliffe on my own, remembering how to smear and climb on rock, enhanced by wedging myself in this dirty crack and squirming to the remaining daylight at the end of the day

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Abroad, where’s that?

Top three five (and a few bonus) trad routes
I usually hate breaking the rules, but there’s no way I’m only choosing three for this!
Immaculate arete, Pordenack Point – I don’t believe in the concept of perfection, but some routes make you question your beliefs.

Bosigran ridge – done with Marie in glorious weather in May. Managed to access the first pitch this time which really is something.

Great wall, Craig-y-Forwen – pumped from the word go! Flashy and every bit as good as it’s reputation. My arms were so glad when I pulled over the top.

Left wall, Brimham – looking up at this route as a 14-year old beginner I was told tales of long ground sweeping falls terrifying passing tourists. These stories hindered more than helped. Pure class grit wall climbing on a big day out with Cheque.

Cameo & Master Spy Direct, Wilton 1 – first time climbing in Lancashire for me. Why don’t I go here all the time? Two routes (cheeky) which couldn’t be more different style, great moves, good scene at the Wilton-fest. Also, I fulfilled a long-held ambition of listening to ‘Autobahn 666’ by the Eccentronic Research Council whilst driving on said road “The A666, some call it the Devil’s Highway, and some call it the road to hell, but I can’t believe the Devil came from Bolton, gorged on black peas astride a small stone black elephant, and I don’t believe he was ever a fan of Chris Rea”

With special mention to The Emergence of Talus (Crowden Great Quarry) for climbing up a slender pillar leant against the crag with vertigo-inducing precariousness; Symphony Crack (Rhoscolyn) for living up to its informal title of being the World’s best VDiff seacliff; Big Sunday (Rhoscolyn) for being a 40° overhanging George Smith offwidth with no offwidthing required (thank fuck); and Desperation Crack (Brimham) for allowing me to watch Cheque struggle for twenty minutes of micro-progress until he topped out to a round of applause from the audience he had acquired.

 
Top three one sport routes UK
Ouijaboard, Chee Cornice – as well as being the hardest thing I’ve climbed in years (as good a reason to be on here as any, obvs), I thought this was a very good route. As standard, I only just scraped my way up it. You know the bit in Toy Story where Buzz demonstrates that he can fly but really it is just a series of fluke bounces off other toys – that was me. I fell up this route, albeit barely with any style.

Top two new routes/problems put up
I actually did five new routes in the Peak – I know right. So as you might guess, they were mostly shit for the connoisseur. These two are genuinely worth doing though:

Falter on the brink of terminal velocity, Darley Dale Quarry – the Peak’s newest neo-classic overhanging finger crack. The name? As an over-enthusiastic 16 year-old I would make lists of potential new route names. No puns as good as Jonboy’s obvs, but at least this name has finally seen the light of day 20 years later.

World Famous in the Amber Valley, Ravensnest Tor – indulge me… I scoped out this line whilst ab’ing for gear having done another new route which definitely does not belong in any category in a ‘Best of’ thread (unless ‘top three roof cracks that might fall off the crag’ is a legitimate sub-category, no?). Picture this: a big bold buttress of Chatsworth-quality fine-grained grit, untouched by human hand other than for the HVS crack at the very right-hand side. A line of holds leads leftwards above a huge roof, 25m above the ground. And as if by magic, a small, albeit fragile, flake positioned in such a perfect place that I temporarily questioned if I might be wrong to disbelieve in any god. It was immediately obvious that this line would be very good, quite bold, but – ach! – too hard for me this early in the year. It’ll have to wait until Autumn. Cue intermittent fretting for six-months in case someone has “stolen” this random bit of rock at a crag that no one ever goes to. One time I even saw a post on here by Mr Jonathan R asking Jonboy about gluing a flake which, driven by fear and jealousy, my anxious mind convinced me that he could only be talking about this route! There was some serious fitting the facts to fit my fears going on here. Reassurance from friends that no one ever goes to Ravensnest Tor did little to abate my fears, such is the nature of paranoia.
Autumn came, and with it did a post by Dave Thomas on here. What little I managed to grasp – something about pursuit of achievements diluting the purity of experience – made my heart sink… I’d always intended to top-rope this route first as it looked hard and scary, but maybe, just maybe… shit. A pact was made: I wanted to try it from the ground. The first day back at the crag, a cool November day, sheltered from the gale, golden leaves everywhere (mostly on the holds actually, I mean, it’s not the cleanest of crags). I abseiled to clean it and glue the fragile flake (which would have otherwise snapped on first use). The Wald top-roped the end moves beyond the flake whilst the glue dried. He made it look easy. Right then… no excuse to reconsider top-roping it now. Being a punter, I didn’t realise how slow the glue would be to dry, so we came back the next day instead. Walking in with the talkative Mike Cheque is never silent (Mic Check more like), here as he wanted to take some photos. Marie thinks the crag is a teetering pile of choss but begrudgingly agrees to belay. My heart is heavy as I set off, the weight of expectation from six months of waiting for this moment. Fortunately, the meandering first 25 metres takes me ages to negotiate the brambles, perched blocks, and the sandpit, which gives some time for me to relax into the rhythm of the climbing. After what seemed like ages, but can’t have been more than an hour, I’ve placed the gear in the HVS crack and I’m ready to start the traverse – here we go! It climbs completely differently from how I imagined it would: pinchy-undercut, smear, stretch left foot, crimp, reach, try to match – can’t, cross-over, uncross, no wait that won’t work cross-over again, fuck it slap, match, where are the footholds? just smear, why’s that next hold so far away? Fucking Wald, he made this bit look piss; Fucking DT, what am I doing here? Glance at the gear, christ I can’t even see it it’s somewhere near the horizon miles away, don’t look at the fall, look at the fall – dammit! focus, only thing that matters is this next big slap – I’m crap at big slappy moves! do it – boom! Gotcha; stay calm, breath, chill for a bit then high foot, rock onto it, further, come on trust it ffs, up, just stand up, and woah Mike did you see that? I laugh. I think Mike shook his head in disbelief. 
The name? Honestly, this route is so good it deserves to be spoken about in revered tones, held aloft as an example of the sublime, of the ethereal spirit of climbing embodied in a tucked-away gritstone cliff. It should be known around the globe… well, at least as far as the edge of it’s own valley anyway.


Top Spankings
Parthian Shit, Wyming Brook – I mean, I did do it, but only after falling off it loads of times. It’s Fiend’s route so I didn’t expect it to be very hard… sorry Fiend! If it’s any consolation, my bravado was richly rewarded by repeated scrittly slips and even when I did finally do it, I thought the top-out was frightening and possibly in the NFZ. Ego-spank.

Non-Tidal Screamer, The Diamond – this could easily go in top sport climbs, despite me not actually doing it! Poor route selection – it was too long to properly work in the time available – and a rushed redpoint as the sun was setting. I was scared way above the bolt and clipped from mid-crux rather than doing ONE MORE STUPID MOVE to clip from a jug. I fell off straight after I’d clipped. I deserved a long fall as punishment but instead suffered the humiliation of sagging onto the rope. Gah!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 01, 2022, 12:20:38 pm
I'll take eatswood trav off my list then as a very unfit boulderer... i would have expected you to path it (fitness)! Although I've only been to have a look at it when Bradley was wet and haven't actually pulled on. Did you milk the knee?

I do like the look of the highball stumble stop repeat nearby! Shame about the access problems.

I wouldn't judge it by my incompetence, steep burl is my anti style! I think you'd rinse it as I struggled on some of the wide shouldery/compression moves. The crux will be getting there and not getting chucked off at the minute I think! How was the access when you went for a look? (PM if easier)


What a rich year you've had Spiders  :great:

Just picking out one of your entries.
It's a great expedition to start with Main Wall on Cyrn Las. I think I carried on round the rest of the Horse Shoe the other way IIRC. A great day out.


I think this was what one of the Pinnacle Club members did on their Anniversary Meet. Can imagine it makes for a great link.

Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wil on January 01, 2022, 03:34:11 pm
2021 certainly wasn't a vintage climbing year for me. It took me a long time to get fitness and mojo back after the lockdown, which in Scotland kept me confined to Edinburgh. That said, much of what I did get done was real quality, and while easy access climbing might not be the same as the peak, I'm much more motivated for what is on offer.

Top three two boulder problems

I didn't do a huge amount of bouldering, but a few good ones.

Little Pixies, Back Bowden. Didn't think I'd get this, but clawed my way to the jug after a few goes. I love this kind of problem.

Monty Python's, Kyloe In. Lovely problem that required trying hard and making a bit of progress each time.

Top three trad routes/solos

Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar. I've wanted to do this for years and had itchy feet in July during a warm spell, so I just drove up to the Cairngorms on my own for a couple of nights. I had the ridge to myself on a very sweaty, but midge-free day, then ran along the tops and down to Creag an Dubh Loch, then back along the loch. The route was great, but the day was made even better by the isolation and wildlife. There were some walkers about, I saw one team of climbers on Lochnagar and 2 on Dubh Loch. I also saw two Osprey and a Ptarmigan, which were firsts for me.

Shibboleth, Buachaille Etive Mor with Duncan. This was the first trad route of the year, and I was really motivated but not particularly fit or brave! I was glad Duncan did the wet crux. It felt a much bigger undertaking than I imagined and was a great adventure.
(https://factortwo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/IMG_20210601_140030148-scaled.jpg)

Pink Diedre, Beinn Eighe. We had a few days above a cloud inversion and did some great routes. For me this was the pick of the bunch, the middle pitch just goes on and on.
(https://factortwo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/IMG_20210907_135533_718.jpg)
(https://factortwo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/IMG_20210828_075909139-scaled.jpg)

Top three sport routes

Stone of Destiny, The Camel. On the way back from Torridon we were trying to find somewhere that might be midge free on a still day. The Camel turned out to be that place and we had a great day working through the easier routes.

Tufa King Hard, Chapel Head Scar. I've only climbed here once before and it was mostly wet. We did a few really cool routes this time and I felt like I was going quite well but got a bit of a spanking at the end of the session on this and got up it by the skin of my teeth!

The Screaming Weem, Weem. Steep jug hauling that was really satisfying and just hard enough that I had to fight, but did it second go.

Top trip

Paddling around the coast of Skye in May. Mega trip with varied conditions and lots of wildlife: seals, dolphins, sea eagles and more. Paddling from Elgol to Loch Coruisk and then portaging into the loch and heading under the Dubh Ridge was the highlight.
(https://factortwo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/DSC01244web.jpg)

Top Spankings

I feel like I had too many spankings this year on and off the rock, but a few memorable ones on it.

Ultima Necat, Dunkeld. Tried this as a stepping stone to Marlene and made really quick progress, doing it in overlapping halves on day 1. I had a few more sessions and just couldn't get past one of the moves on redpoint, despite doing it easily in isolation. This was a combination of not quite having the power endurance or ability to recover, but also nearly hitting the deck when a partner dropped me as I fell off it.

Moonshine, Beinn Eighe. We weren't sure which route to finish on, so went all in for this and I got the crux pitch. I made decent progress, but had no ability to recover on the jugs. The climbing was fairly steady with a few tricky moves, then a bit of a run out the "foothold on the arete". I got this hold in my hands then got really pumped trying to get a bit of gear in a flake before committing to the move. I couldn't get it seated properly and eventually I just had to make do and go for the move, shouting to my partner to "watch me, this could be a bad one!" I almost got the move, but I was just too tired, fell off, the gear ripped and I went quite a long way before the next pieces caught me. It's a steep route and a safe fall, and the other gear was totally bomber. I was pleased that I'd managed to go for it, but frustrated that a) I could have probably just done the move and b) If I'd had more mileage I would have been able to shake out at my highpoint, rather than get more pumped. Partner didn't fancy it so we bailed.

Cuillin Ridge. Great weather at the end of our trip to Skye and my OH said she'd pick me up at the end of the ridge so I could do it solo and in a day. Got up at 4am and set off with the forecast for low cloud, lifting early and then a fine day. Walked up in the ever thickening mist. Missed the junction on the path I needed and had to traverse the hillside awkwardly to get back. The mist then got so thick that I was a little disorientated, but managed to scramble up to the main ridge, although I wasn't quite sure where I was or which direction I needed to head, and my compass was going haywire. Visibility was about 10m. I went round in circles for a bit and the mist turned to rain. Eventually I hid in a little cave and ate my jelly babies, thinking I'd just wait it out and the ridge would dry quickly once the rain shifted. After a while it became apparent that the rain wasn't shifting, it was getting heavier, so I thought better of it and made a slightly tortuous escape back down the route I came up. The weather cleared up at around 4pm, so there's no way I'd have made it anyway. It was a glorious evening, perfect for a 2 day traverse, and the next day had great weather and would have been a better choice.
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Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: remus on January 01, 2022, 03:38:36 pm
Essay-time here, soz.

The essays are the best ones! Great write up of World Famous! I can totally empathise with cursing at the Wald  :lol:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: GazM on January 01, 2022, 04:08:23 pm
Is that Pale Diedre Wil, rather than Pink? Pedant alert  :sorry:
If so, yeah, what a route. That 2nd pitch just keeps going.
If there's a route on Beinn Eighe called Pink Diedre then  :sorry:, ignore me!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wil on January 01, 2022, 04:24:01 pm
Is that Pale Diedre Wil, rather than Pink?

Yes, you're right!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: GazM on January 01, 2022, 04:33:26 pm
Is that Pale Diedre Wil, rather than Pink?
Ace, nice one.
Should you ever find yourself looking for the occasional partner up in the north drop me a PM. I don't get out much but always keen to try!

Yes, you're right!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Aussiegav on January 01, 2022, 05:03:00 pm
Top three trad routes UK
Had an awesome day at Wildcat. These two stood out. 
Golden Yardstick - Wildcat
Nine Lives Wall- Wildcat

Elbow Ridge - Winnats Pass.
Did this with my son on a sunny September evening.

Top three sport routes UK
Very slim & grim offerings here.
Any of the smears on the Moss Rake slab.
Handy Borehole - Masson Lees
Rotund Rooley- Horseshoe Quarry

Top Spankings
BeerHouse Buttress. Jeez those routes are tough.
Walking through the river to Two Tier barefooted & slipped. Dropping my rope bag.

Top Inspiring Line seen
Fifth Dimension- Nettle Buttress. That would be an awesome lifetime Redpoint
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fultonius on January 01, 2022, 05:05:26 pm
It's not been a jam packed year, but I do remember some distinct highlights.

Mountain Trad

Freebird on Beinn a Bhuird with Andy. E4*** 100m  Second visit in to look at it, first time it was wet. Quite glad, as I was going a bit better this time round and even then it was full value for money!  Andy made the first pitch look easier than it was - some incredible positions on that pitch!  The second had a pretty wild start, then thin and airy. Top day out in the heatwave.

The Spire, E4 at the Shelterstone Again with Andy. This was a brutal fight. Getting into the upper ramp/groove on the second crux pitch took all the years of trad trickery to account for my (at the time) relative lack of mileage/fitness. Lost most of a set of brand new offset alloy nuts my GF had just got for me for my birthday :-(

Howf Dweller, E3 Dubh Loch . Nearly always sopping wet, and you still have to use some big sopping holds in the crack. Given that intro it probably doesn't sound appealing, but it's got a ton of interesting 3d climbing like a big Yosemite dihedral. Quite unScottish!

Top 3 Boulders

After a few years of not really doing much outdoor bouldering, I got a bit of the psyche back last autumn as Andy has been getting out a lot more since having a wean. Got to Kentmere and the Bowderstone when down on working at height training:

Badger Arete ss 6C+ - took me a few goes to figure out the beta. Was quite chuffed to get this in a session as it wasn't really my style and I had to figure it all out myself. Lovely warm day on me tod. Also did a nice run around the same time up Easedale to Helm Crag, thanks HarryBD for the suggestion.

The Crack at The Bowderstone. Haven't even topped it!  Was on my own with just one mat. Didn't flash the start, but I don't remember it taking more than a go or two but really enjoyed the obvious line.

The final one is sneaking in as it's just another Dumby problem that I'd avoided doing for years.... Jeremey's Problem, 6C+. Always noteworthy ticking a new problem there.

Top 3 Sport Routes

Amor Suprem, Gelida near Barcelona F7b. It's been more than 11 years since I onsighted a 7b outdoors. Despite struggling on a 7a onsight in Margalef the week before, and having just recovered from a mild case of covid (post viral boost?) I felt the need to try to get a hard (for me) onsight that trip. I'd seen my mate Andy had done one in Chulilla a few days before, so I was obliged to have a bash! The day before I'd managed the 7a+ next to it rather casually (its nice when you are on an endurance route and stay aerobic the whole way, makes you feel like a legend, if only in your own head for a few minutes...).   Anyway, it had a fun steep start (6cish) followed by a hands free rest. The upper wall was 20° overhanging with relatively straightforward long moves on edges, and micro-rests on slightly bigger flatties - my ideal route. Starting to power out a few moves from the top I just caught one of the edges and manged to re-adjust - no finishing jug but there was a perfect jam niche so I knew from then it was in the bag!  Very psyched as I'd failed on a 7b to the right in the middle of the day when it was hot, sweaty and about 3 grades harder feeling...

Any of the Montserrat Multipitches with B Not so much difference between all the route, so but great fun watching my gf confidently leading on 6-7m runouts...and actually making team decisions about where to abseil etc. rather than me being in guide mode

This Won't Hurt 7a Llanymynech Quarry on a visiting family/friends trip round Shropshire/South Wales, England managed to grab a few days climbing on some slight detours. Slightly crumbly in places, but with some proper thought provoking climbing between not quite good enough rests.

Top 3 Trad Routes

Spaced out Rockers at Reiff E4 What a trip!  Had this one on the list for years, nice to finally get it done. A string of ropes on it that day (all our team, took some planning!). Just keeps on coming, and actually harder, bolder and pumpier than I allowed for. Not the soft touch you might expect so very happy to keep it all together and not run out of mid size cams. Triple 0.3-0.7 wouldn't go a miss! 

The Ogre, E5 Ardmair Ardmair is a place that's never really been on my radar, despite my love of hard single pitch cracks and sandstone...  I guess people often referred to it as a place to stop off on the way to Reiff, getting spanked in blazing sun, midged to death, blasted by freezing winds...
Simon lead this, so I was just seconding but it was stiff a great experience and it ranks as my #1 mate burn off for the year so pretty memorable for that  :lol:  Simon looked pretty dismayed that I waltzed up it barely even pumped. Would have been a different story on lead but amusing nonetheless (he's way better than me...).

My Own Personal Mingulay on Supercrag (Creag Rodha mor)  First trip in, on a lovely hot day (but cool in the shade of the crag). Great to get acquainted with this mega crag and keen to go back for some of the harder routes. Had to dig deep on the bold second pitch as my usual level of fitness was not there giving me less margin.

Ok, it's #4 but honourable mention for Contortionism E6 6c, Cambusbarron Heard that Iain Small had cleaned this up, and the McKenna brothers had done/were working it. Felt nice to be down on my own figuring out the tricky beta on a shunt, then working it with Martin/John and seeing their alternative way, to finally getting it led on a quick detour heading north with B in the cool morning (Velcro connies) before a hot and sunny spring day. Hardest trad lead, and although I could have jumped on it sooner it was nice to have a few relaxed sessions working it and being patient for the right day.

Top 3 Spankings

Magic Festival, Fr7c Margalef

Ha. In theory a good route to try to onsight, being long and sustained. The American climbing school were in-situ, which meant pre-placed draws and as much beta as I wanted (none, initially…). Didn’t even make it through the lower boulder crux, then dogged slowly to the top and had to spend quite a bit of time working the sting in the tail crux. 2 more goes, one getting to the first kneebar but I just didn’t get anything back.
Came back a few days later, just at the onset of what turned out to be covid… weak, heavy and got nowhere.

Unleash the Beast, Ardmair, E4.  Hubris made me think I was good enough on cracks that I would be ok in full sun. Quality route and was mighty close to getting the onsight but somehow fell out of a jam on the only semi rest on the route…. Got it second go. High in the grade and technical jams. Will do again!

Headlong, Reiff, E4 5c.  After having done Spaced Out Rockers which traverses directly above this wall I was super psyched to get back on for one of the straight up routes. Pete had made a valiant effort at the start, but got a bit psyched out by the smeg and slime. I got to his highpoint and then quested on upwards. Things were going ok until I hit a particularly bold section that coincided with not quite enough rest and a lot of smeg, plus having ignored Simon’s advice to take a layer off I was massively overheating. Got hideously pumped and just couldn’t commit to moves left on soapy edges. Had to rest on a bad cam to take a layer off and de-pump. Seems like these routes are hard to get in good conditions as it’s quite sheltered – needs a strong breeze rather than a hot lazy day…  Impressive face, will be back….

Managed a 6 second hang on the BM 45° yesterday, still not as good as the 25 seconds I once managed back in around 2010 but still nice progress!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fultonius on January 01, 2022, 05:15:19 pm
Funny old year.

top 3 descents;

1) Morven - wanted to do this on skis for ages, but rarely snow low enough. Did it it on a lovely day, a bit windy at the top, but great snow on the south side, and fun traverse round to the front with mountain hares breaking cover all around.

2) Pannanich Hill & Craig Vallich the weekend after the mega dump it was clear the hairdryer was getting turned on and it was all going to shit, so me and mate headed up Deeside with a few spots in mind, the main issue though was that snowploughs had left 6 foot piles of snow in any available layby or parking place, so we ended up parking in Ballater town centre, and walking over the Dee Bridge to pick up trails through forest. Felt very continental. Snow cover great, and perfect turns in places, but blowing a hoolie on the tops, making stashing skins a bit of a challenge (if you've ever been slapped in the face by a damp sticky ski skin you'll know what I mean)

3)Cairn Mon Earn With the unusual amount of snow, a couple of mates decided to do a headtorch raid on a local hill. We all took boards and hiked through the woods to the top, breaking trail through knee deep drifts in places. From the top the phone line cut through the trees leads straight down to the parking, and the snow was perfect for the top 2/3 but a bit sticky on the boggy ground lower down, cue much comedy wipe outs an rolling about. Fantastic memorable evening.


Being up at my Mum's in Perth was a lot better than being stuck in Glasgow, but I was definitely wishing I could have nipped up to join you on some of those mini-adventures!

I did manage a ski munro in February, which culminating in me coming over a rise in the van and touching the brakes, finding myself way too sideways-backwards to save it and backing into a ditch. Luckily no damage, but had to walk down to the local deer stalker's house and get him to come and pull me out. Apparently I was about the 10th that weekend. He started to have a bit of a snipe at me for being "up from the city" but softened a bit when he found out I was a bit more local (even if only temporarily) and that I did have decent snow tyres, just temporarily lost the ability to drive sensibly....
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: cheque on January 01, 2022, 05:40:36 pm
The essays are the best ones!

 :agree: Give me an essay or a photo or video post over

Name of problem Cheque can’t remember anything about This was hard, took three sessions”

any day.  ;)
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: csl on January 01, 2022, 06:12:42 pm
Top three boulder problems

Squelch, Torridon. - pure quality. I had hoped to be flying along the Cuillin Ridge, but I didn't heed Duncan's warning to not skip leg day. Was dying from a recce a couple of days earlier so opted for a morning in Torridon before a long drive south. Bliss.

High Speed Imp Act, Churnet - First day out after lockdown and was made up to flash this, it's been on my wish list for the last decade.

King of Drunks, The Pass - have done this years ago, but was a highlight of a few days trying to get back into things after a summer of lethargy.

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Round of Coire Lagan via The Cioch, Inn Pinn etc.

Thanks to a recommendation from Will for this one. A perfect morning out, got up to the start via some easy soloing on Sron na Ciche, the walk across the nape of the neck was quite exciting but worth it for a selfie on the Cioch. Ever since watching Highlander as a kid, and my dad telling me it was "very difficult" to get up there I've wanted to do it. From there a fun squeeze under the boulder in east gulley led to the ridge, generally ok weather with a bit of low mist so got totally lost on the way down having soloed the inn pinn. Moving fast in the mountains is just so much fun. 

Main Wall, Cyrn Las - Good fun pottering up this as a three, plus a nice haul of crag swag. Made up for a miserable day getting rained off cloggy the day before.

Superdirect, Milestone Buttress - After an afternoon flailing at Tremerchion it was nice to run up this with Footwork

Top three sport routes UK

Armistice Day + Whose Line, Cornice - Both of these were my favourite type of ascent, totally unfit and not a chance of doing them when setting off, but just hanging on anyway and making it to the chains.

Insatiable, Cheddar - not for the quality of the climbing, but because I got to climb with an old mate for the first time in 5 years and had the fun post-ascent euphoric babbling feeling that I don't get much these days.

Top Spankings
Malc's Arete, Torridon - Only 1 move further than my last session 5 years ago  :(
Gritstone bouldering - I'm so bad at climbing on Grit, 1 session on it a year isn't enough to get anywhere.


Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Bradders on January 01, 2022, 06:16:04 pm
Quote fail
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Bradders on January 01, 2022, 06:20:57 pm
From someone who is approaching that stage, it's nice to hear a note of optimism in amongst the wave of 'your life is going to end'.

I was going to add that people like David Mason, Dan Turner, Tim Stubley and Tim Palmer are all big sources of inspiration on this front.

Down & Out - a great day at Sprotborough with Matt, Guy and the Sheffield gang. This was really satisfying as I had to do a different sequence to the lanky strong folk but a drop knee got my onto the headwall. Above a sea of pads and vocal support I just about made it to the top. Great problem.

This and High and Dry look awesome, keen to check them out.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: cheque on January 01, 2022, 07:46:18 pm
Top Five Trad Routes

Golden Gate, Stoney

The only route I climbed twice in 2021- it’s two pitches and I led and seconded each over two evening visits with different partners. One of those routes where the pitch that’s easier is the better one and also one of those routes where people can’t decide whether the crux pitch is hard and appallingly polished (it’s neither IMO) or pleasant and not really very polished at all.

In a year when I put far too much effort into trying to get one of my mates to recreate his 2020 psyche and achievements this was the only HVS he managed to lead clean so there’s some weird satisfaction from that too.

Freddie’s Finale, Wimberry

A good summer for Wimberry for the same reason I gather it was a good Kilnsey year-the wind was from the northeast a lot. This is my favourite type of route- hardest at the bottom and easier but still sustained above- I love the feeling of fighting (and fighting is the word on this one, it’s an overhanging fist crack that turns into a slanting and awkward off-hands experience  :boxing:) through with the knowledge that it’s in the bag if you keep it together. My mate seemed genuinely impressed at me doing this which doesn’t happen very often!

Great Crack, Duke’s Quarry

For those unaware, Duke’s is a Millstone-esque quarry in size and grandeur but rather than being on a windy hill near Sheffield it’s in a sheltered, jungly and very damp hole in the ground near Cromford. It’s the ultimate “you must call in there and do the classic HVS” venue except for the fact that it’s got it’s own tropical microclimate so it’s quite hard to predict when Great Crack (let alone anything else there!) will be anything like dry- it really needs a long dry spell in late spring.

I was a little obsessed with this when I lived in Notts and even got the crux start cleaned and dried off on a few occasions only for it to get wet again before I returned with a partner. It’s legend was enhanced by the story one of my mates told of sinking all of his appropriately-sized gear into the first half (it’s a ~30m crack that’s mainly red & gold Dragon size) running it out and plummeting almost the full height of the wall after blowing a move near the top.  :blink:

On the hottest day of 2021 I went to have a look, towelled a decent amount of gunk off the start and convinced myself that it would be dry in a couple of days… a few evenings later I went back with two mates and lots of cams. A cloud of mist hung in the quarry and the route was wet and slimy until about half way up but I did it, placing the gear for my comrades’ ascents. Ace. ;D

Tritus/ Protus Connection, Raven Crag Walthwaite

Stayed with my mate in Ambleside in June. Knackered after going up to Bowfell the day before, us Peak visitors begged to go to a roadside crag and I was pointed at this linkup which I’m told is the best route there. Steep and on good holds at the bottom, a crux stepping across between routes and a groove at the top that’s easier than you think it will be  :thumbsup:. So good to climb on volcanic rock for the first time in ages.

Skylight, High Tor

It’s not really a very good route but anything on High Tor feels epic and personal circumstances made it feel memorable. This should fill you in. (https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE4MDk0OTI4ODA5MjYzMjEw?story_media_id=2653991457027523192&)

Top Three Spankings

The abseil down Retroversion, Stanage Popular

Climbed this route on a minging midgey evening in July and it started pissing it down as I topped out. My mate elected not to second so I set up an ab. You need a big silver cam to get the rope above the line and mine was in the route so I decided it’d have to do to have both ropes coming from the bomber threads at the top of inverted V.

Part way through the gear-stripping one of the ropes suddenly gets a lot of slack in it, :blink: I drop a short distance and absolutely freak out, go in direct to a cam and hang on gibbering while my mate goes up to see what’s up. The shout comes down ”the anchors are fine but there’s nothing I can do, you’re just going to keep slipping into the big groove” ::) This was a mental setback that I’m not sure I recovered from very well.

The Peapod, Curbar.

(https://i.ibb.co/xStDypZ/C6-D08-A77-5-DB0-48-D5-A12-B-2-FFD37-B6-E854.jpg)

I found lots of routes hard because of my weak legs this year but the extent to which this one suddenly shut me down on each of my many ground-up attempts was comical. I got exactly one move higher each time. I enjoyed it though and I’m hoping that a beefier-legged version of me will not have a problem come spring.

Desperation Crack, Brimham

I did actually get up this fucker clean first go seconding Reeve (see his post above) but I’m still classing it as a spanking as it wasted me for about 3 days. I felt sick and couldn’t climb VSs for the rest of the day. “Is the Monster Offwidth like that Reeve?” “Yeah, but it’s 50m long”.  :sick:

A month later I went back with another friend who’s much better at Offwidths than me and had a go at the Dirty Dozen. A great day (https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE3OTA1ODUwNDY1MTY3NDcw?story_media_id=2666890407972975248&) and I hoped to use my new skills at the Desperation Crack-width to cruise it. I faced the wrong way (weaker leg outside) and had an even worse time on it!

I felt proper miserable writing the aims posts this morning but going back through all the good days and achievements to write this has cheered me back up. Here’s to a great 2022!  :beer2:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Footwork on January 01, 2022, 11:37:54 pm
Top Trad

Main Wall, Cyrn Las

With csl and Ewan in guide mode. Great company on a lovely route which I found quite out there for HS! Bert and Tom had gone off to do The Grooves/ Overhanging Arete finish (which csl and I did 10 years ago! shit, we're getting old). We were so hungry when we got down that we ate all their food from their rucksacks. Don't forget to take the pervert's alternative on the way up, taking a slight detour to the infinity pool...

Also need to mention Superdirect, Milestone Buttress with csl and others. Straight out the car, Tom just finished work and we run up this in the glorious evening. I should do more after work trad in the summer, nourishes the soul.

Earl Crack, Earl Crag

I'd just belayed Will on his successful attempt of Desert Island Arete and he forced me to tie in the sharp end, despite me having managed to avoid doing so for well over a year. Absorbing climbing all the way and lots of mini gritstone puzzles.

Traveller In Time, Ramshaw

Another one I've always wanted to do. Howling cross winds and threatening to rain constantly, the decision was made on the ground to go up (having wimped out the previous morning in the same conditions thinking tomorrow will be better). Deciding to set off is always the hardest thing.

Top Blocs

Waite, Caley

Powerful and subtle. Pure class and I don't think gets done very often. Had to come up with some non lank beta for the second half. Great that it tops out too.   

Under A Full Moon, Satellite

One day I couldn't touch the first move. To Palmers disbelief and 36c's amusement. Next time I totally rinsed it. The feeling of biconically ripping through an overhang on small crimps is always welcome. Felt floaty on the last move.

Gleaming Pinch, Kilnsey

Weirdly difficult, most of it revolving around a drop knee and keeping the tension on the pinch. At least something got done at Kilnsey.

Tierdrop, Ramshaw

Done just before Traveller In Time in a t-shirt (weather in the UK is weird). Three stars and a beefy move. Feels like La Baleine in font but with cooler moves getting to the big slap. The very top crack was damp to top out and I had a rope thrown down the side in case my jam slipped and I had to grab something else quick.

Moffatrocity, Crag X

Took a few sessions and I kept forgetting my beta between them. You can do the first bit into Jericho Road in around 6-8 seconds but it doesn't half make you feel knackered for the big move to the crimp. Got intimate with the ladder and holds to work out a progressively easier method to temper the harder moves. I had a couple of blissful sessions down there by myself this year. Love it.

Absolute Spankings

Fluid Dynamics, West Chevin

Maybe 6 or 7 sessions of just ripping my skin off. Think I counted 5 split tips minimum. Hilariously it felt like we were almost going to do it on our first session, but we were going for the wrong bit of the hold. I turned up in some amazing conditions and skin was still just sliding all over the place. I'm leaving well alone this season!

Man With A Gun, Kilnsey

Think I lead the second half in a oner on my second session. Got the first half dialled over the next couple of sessions and then just kept turning up in awful conditions. I could get through the first half to a good rest but would then just ping off after a couple of bolts. Subculture's second half is a rising diagonal line of finger jugs where you just had to keep the pump at bay. Whereas the top half of MWAG feels like a catwalk 7b (better though). I came off once and smacked my knee pretty hard which aggravated old injuries and I had to hobble around for a few weeks as a result.

Definitely keen for it again this year. A really fun route that just keeps coming at you. Just need to dial it in again before the good conditions arrive so I don't waste them. Also smacked the Raindogs chain in terrible conditions.

Happy new year everyone.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Will Hunt on January 02, 2022, 10:32:21 am
Quality has been sparse this year. The whole Stay Local thing at the start of the year was a blessing and a curse, resulting in a few nice FAs but little else; a frustrating run of non-cons at Kilnsey; coupled with the worst start to any grit bouldering season I think I've ever had - normally by this time I've done a 7B+ or 7C and this year I've been out about four times. That said, the highlights, where they've come, have been among the best of my life.


Trad

Desert Island Arete, Earl - had a top rope on it and could do the top crux fairly consistently but not really in control. Rock over until the fingers of your right hand are straightening out then whirl your left hand to catch the Jugmother before the void gobbles you up. Was really frightened about taking the whip but told my head to shut up and tied on at the bottom before I could back out. A tremendous experience.

Pot Scar - a divine, bucolic evening watching tractors chug through the haymeadows as we ticked off the classics. The Pusher, L.S.D., and Sunspot were all completely charming.

Viscount's Route, Earl - another noble line of Earl. Hard start up the bastard undercut crack, hard moves around the bastard wobbling chockstone, hard moves laybacking up the bastard lichenous crack to a chockstone glory jug. Mantel the ledge then embark on the "4c" bastard overhanging layback.
What an adventure!


Bouldering

Blockbuster, Caley - nemesis #1. How many times have I leapt from the pads? I'd always chuck a pad under it as I walked past and this time it clicked (thanks to good connies).

First Arete, Ilkley - nemesis #2. Connies are everything.

Secret Seventh, Caley - nemesis #3. I think I've been trying this on occasion since 2013. Christmas Eve 2020 I got the sloper to find it covered in gunge. Went back in February this year on a day with sub-zero temps and 45% humidity. Mythical connies.

Armistice, Baildon Bank - A very fun leap to a wild, swinging catch.



Sport

Space Race, Malham - I am head-over-heels in love with everything about this route. The pocketed rock on the slabby start; the gentle transition from slab to steep; the chonking kneebar rest; the traverse under the roof that dwindles just as the line above appears; the pumpy finish on memorable holds. I think I've seen it mentioned twice in this edition of the thread so far. Jim wanted it knocked down to one or two stars - the div!

Staying Power, Yew Cogar - newly retroed. Was expecting a fight but happily did it first go after a bolt-to-bolt with power to spare. The sun came onto the crag and we left to find Roger Deakin's "tufa pools" for a swim. The water was beautifully warm.

Wargames, Chapel Head - a fight to the death in a bad headspace. Bolt-to-bolted then dry-mouthed to the top in overly warm sunshine. Each time I arrived at a bolt I resolved to just get to the next. The millisecond after I clipped the belay my fingers uncurled and I fell off.

New Dawn, Malham - had a number of sessions getting nowhere with this. The warm sun led to a literal embarrassment of flailing. On a decent day I set off up it and was just unstoppable. Felt amazing in the tufa rest and the traverse across was a breeze. Got to the undercuts and still felt incredible. Like a fucking juggernaut. The best feeling of flow and cruise I've ever had on a sport route.

Main Overhang, Malham - what a joy it was to spend some time with this route. The moves are exquisite. I enjoyed every session, even the one where I dropped it on easy ground. This turned out to be a blessing because I got to return later in the week when the crag was bathed in golden light. Sublime.
 

New Things

Wayfinder, Ruin Bank Woods - one of my favourite FAs as the journey of climbing it slowly revealed itself. Had tried it in 2018 but not figured it out. Relooked at it with #sammarks early in the year but a wet and muddy finishing slab thwarted our efforts. A spooky moonlit cleaning session and a lunchtime hit sealed the deal. It would be interesting to see it repeated as it most likely needs de-starring.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL69NLDD2Ic/


Shangri-la, Ruin Bank Woods - remarkable that this leaning tower hadn't been climbed. I think there used to be a tree growing against the arete which had got in the way.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CM2r72EjKqR/


Groovejet, Ruin Bank Woods - a team of us cleaned off this small area to produce some nice sub-7s, of which this was the stand-out line.
https://www.instagram.com/p/COOZ6CmD1bv


Gills - a spell of hot weather led to some exciting scrambles. What's so brilliant about these is how unlikely they look on the approach. You tell yourself you'll just look at the first move and before you know it you're halfway up a flowing line of the most perfect hidden jugs.

Crystal Gill - a diverting bit of stemming over a flooded slot leads to a large chamber, at the back of which is an unlikely and slippery looking chute. The back right of this is a stepped staircase of moss-lined jugs. Up there with Dental Slab as the best VD in Yorkshire and you park at a nice pub so refreshments afterwards are taken care of. So nice I did it twice.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRZrCe8jV--

Bouther Gill - done after a repeat of Crook Gill with csl. I was nervous about this one as the only info I had was from gill veteran John Hunt, who'd tried in high water and suggested the two difficult pitches might warrant harder than Severe even in the dry. Anyway, they were intimidating but ultimately all there. The open-top cave system at the top was the icing on the cake.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe5iW9DtEH https://www.instagram.com/p/CRedElmjcUR
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 02, 2022, 07:07:19 pm
Brilliant thread, I could of written this in September as due to buying a house I have barely climbed outside since then. But still, you never know...

2021 was a really great year for climbing for me, not a year I did tons and tons but what I did do was very good.

Top 3 Boulders - Peak

Had a great late winter in the Peak

1. Desparete 7B - Burbage South. Great stuff, nice height interesting moves, crimps, what’s not to love! Had a fun evening play on it not quite getting the subtleties of the final hard move. Then came back with a bit more of a crew and despatched, but not after falling off the top!

2. Book of Tricks 7B - Shining Cliff. Really fun problem from Rob Smith. We turned up to find Gus and Ben Rouse toproping it, but had quite a few pads so Nathan Lee, Oli Grounsel and and Tommy Williams flashed it. I managed to get it done in a handful of tries. We didn’t go all the way to be stood on the ledge by the tree to then ab off and instead got to the jugs just beneath the tree and dropped off, which caused a bit of a hoo-har. Seemed arbitrary wherever you stop as neither tops out. The climbing below is fantastic. Definitely recommended along with all the other bits in this bit of shining cliff; far side story, phaar side arete plus others.

3. Faith Left hand 7A+ - Roche Abbey. Maybe not a mega classic but I thought the climbing was ace, couldn’t work it out on my first visit but on my second after doing the right hand version I worked out quite a faffy but efficient way. Didn’t manage it that day but was off on a sneaky 3 day furlough stint and went back the next day and despatched. It was cold but sunny and these were the first two days my medication started working. I remember saying to Howard “I’m so happy to be here” in one sense I meant at the crag in the other I meant in general after having long spells of not wanting that. Good memories.

Top 3 non Peak boulders

Had a few trips to the lakes bouldering in the spring as a fair few of my friends were up there for a while. Had some great weather and did some fun boulders.

1. Son of Kong 7B - Harter Gold. Mega fun highball compression prow. Full team send which was just ace, the wads and the punters (me) all doing it in quick succession. Great scenes just laughing, joking and engaging thrash mode.

2. The Giant Peach 7B - a good save to what could of been a faffy day. Started off at fisher ground boulders but it was boiling so we sacked it. Walked in to completely the wrong crag looking for this then finally figured it out and made it. Some of the team wanted to sack it but a few of us carried on to the peach slab and managed to salvage the day. Me and Oli g managed this second go. It’s probably easier than the 7A to the left but the high crux makes it feel exciting.

3. Screwball Scramble 7A - Seathwaite. Great team scenes up here but whilst everyone else went to try a 7C me and Tanya snuck off for this. Such a fun, cryptic problem, shame Tanya didn’t quite manage it but was great to watch her engage thrash mode!

Top 3 Sport Routes

1. Supercool 8a+ - gordale. The biggie. I’ve wanted to do this for a while now and after a couple of sessions last year knew I liked it and that I’d have to get better to do it. I got stronger over winter and although I made some poor tactical decisions (turning up hungover a few more times than I should of) was happy to get it done just before my climbing year ended. Had some great fun sessions taking massive wingers off the crux. Was really great also managed to not get annoyed at lack of progress. Such an ace route. Definitely upped my level trying this.

2. Man with a Gun 7c+ - Kilnsey. Such a fun route! So continuous and with such great sequences on it. Had loads of fun trying it with Tanya and Ella, and just great scenes in general at Kilnsey.

3. I ain’t no sponsored hero, 7c - Kilnsey. Just really enjoyed this one. Was a bit of a day after supercool side project and managed to do it the day after I did supercool last go of the day by the skin of my teeth.

Top 3 trad routes

Had my least productive but best ever year in terms of high end achievement with 2 E6 onsights and 1 flash!

1. Pretty Girls Make Graves, E6. Still in disbelief that I onsighted this! The perfect combo of thinking I didn’t have a chance but keen to have a good go. Felt like I climbed it well, moving quickly between good locks/holds where I banged a couple of bits of gear in and then repeated. Finished the day off with a swim in Lyn padarn and pints at the heights... doesn’t get much better really...

2. Barbarossa, E6, Gogarth. (Sorry Northern Yob) wanted to do this for ages and was a great day out with Nathan. I’m starting to come round to NY’s stance on these bolt-pegs, but this is just a really good route with one in. Went for a swim under main cliff after.

3. Deygo, E3 Left hand red wall.

Classic day with an old friend who is soon to be an IFMGA Guide. I started us off on pitch 1 and nearly climbed back to the belay from beneath the chimney if cheesy death. The belay at the end is quite something! Tom backed off pitch 2 which I was initially annoyed about as it looked like he was close to easy ground but in fact after that it is really bold and sandy. The top pitch makes up for what was below with some nice rock and good gear. A fun day of guiding for me 😂

Top 3 non UK mainland routes

Didn’t go abroad last year but did spend a week at Fair Head, with a great crew and good weather! So good to sup Guinness again!

1. Paralysed Power, E6. Sooo good this! Had seen the vid of varian on it in one of Ricky Bell’s through the green door series (ep. 6 maybe?). I abbed it to make sure it was clean and had a look at some gear whilst I was there. I was just in my trainers so didn’t check any moves and had a great on the limit experience climbing this. My friends maddy and Ollie were on a rock promontory just behind and were shouting encouragement. Towards the end my legs were in bits from bridging up the corner and hanging around trying to figure the climbing out. The guide said for the last bit “either reach for the for the jug or jump for it” not ideal for someone who isn’t very tall or dynamic! I ended up laying one on for it and just held it. So so good.

2. Candy Kisses E4. Really cool interesting climbing up corners and grooves with a really cool sequence to get into the top groove on p1.

3.Hurricane E2. Lena’s first E2 onsight. I just thought it was such fun though. Swimming up hand sized cracks.

Top spankings

1. Sprotborough. Headed out with a big crew but failed to do anything. Usually this would send me into a bit of negative cycle of self loathing. But on walking out my cheeks were aching from laughing and smiling so much so it was obviously a great day

2. E5s. Only did one this year and didn’t onsight it! The first time this has happened since I did my first back in 2014. Mainly because I only tried really hard ones and didn’t try that many. London Wall was probably the biggest spanking. Need to get that one done!

Top wildlife sightings

1. Numerous dolphin sightings during the Ireland trip. Just ace, one sighting on the ferry. Another was climbing on the last day, a massive pod swam past whilst I was seconding. I managed to turn round and watch them.

2. Sheffield badger. Got home and out of the van and saw a badger running down the road. Wind was blowing towards me so badger wouldn’t be able to smell me. I hid behind a van and it all but ran into me! So cool

3. Sheffield foxes. Always love seeing them. Great stuff.

Hope everyone has an ace 2022. I’m certainly looking forward to it!

Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: abarro81 on January 02, 2022, 07:32:21 pm
Essay-time here, soz.

The essays are the best ones! Great write up of World Famous! I can totally empathise with cursing at the Wald  :lol:

Yeah, enjoyed that write up!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on January 02, 2022, 08:13:50 pm
Best thread. Deliciously self-indulgent to read and write. 3 months of rain up here had me forgetting what a good year its been for climbing! In part thanks to a depressing break up and being unemployed in the first half of the year (silver linings etc). But also mostly thanks to super duper partners.

Best Routes – so many contenders this year! Though all from February to August…

Blackbeard, Signal Wall, Mull of Kintyre – Cant believe ive left it 5 years to get down here. Its like a mini Gogarth! Signal Wall and the bay with this and Caulking Wall are properly impressive. Taps aff weather in March. Did Pugwash first with Nick (great questy climbing) then jumped on this. The crux on this is a brilliantly burly problem onto a teetery slab. 30 mins up down up down figuring out the roof then another 20 sweaty minutes trying not to blow the slab move. Very satisfying and great to push through on a harder route early season. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51793810672/in/photostream/

Rapunzel, Beinn Fhionnlaidh – all the ingredients of a cult classic. Rarely in condition, rarely repeated, little info or photos, and yet its on the local hill and practically the only route on it. Inclusion in chasing the ephemeral has only stoked all this. Walked in with Rich on the most marginal of days, with winds howling and temps rising, which only made it more satisfying. The bottom icefall collapsed as Rich dragged me up it, but beyond it was perfect fat ice amongst twisting gullys. The walk back over the top was as wild as any ive done. Poor Rich reached the farm track only to receive a call out from Beinn Udlaidh and jogged the last two miles to the car. Heroic stuff. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51795491560/in/photostream/

Paladin, White Gyll – Midsummer. Jake had just lead WG Eliminate as his first E2 (ridiculous E2). I knew Paladin by reputation and the anniversary stuff on ukc (think I had managed to avoid the video though..). It’s such a feature anyway once there. I was sucked in. Approached the big pitch feeling tired but nicely relaxed with no real expectations. And it all seemed to click into place. Never too pumped, never too frazzled, good gear, mega positions, and such a satisfying crux! So, so good.

Best Others – Kelpie at Scoor (brilliant adventure pitch!) and anything on Sheigra main wall with Claire. Titans wall, Freak Out, and Edgehog, as well as a magic few days in the lakes at Reecastle and Burnt Crag, and a weekend up NW, all with the Swiss Machine. Decadent Days, Innocenti and Guillotine stand out as highlights from those trips.

Best Boulders – the pads took a back seat this year, and most bouldering days out were spent on still unfinished jobs, but a few that stood out:

Clifftop Boulders – A perfect November grit day with Ben and the Adam Family after an equally heart-warming evening the night before. I got up very little (Boing Boy by cheat way maybe?). But it was everything a day out should be. Almost enough to tempt me back south.

Red Riding Roof, Hood Crag – 5 minutes from mum and dads. Managed to squeeze in a few hours before sunday dinner one weekend whilst back. This takes a very satisfying set of moves through the roof from the far left then finishes up the crag (mini)classic. A lowball link up in reality, but it reminded me how much enjoyment you can get from 5m of rock in a field. Its a great little crag. Well worth an afternoon.

Brandy Rock. Still great. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794862548/in/photostream/

Best big days oot

Fionn buttress – Late summer with Mika. Paddled across Loch Maree and camped at the causeway, paddling for fun as much as anything (I don’t think its much quicker..). All a bit too relaxed, with a late start paddling, wrong guidebook, and getting lost on P1+2. But it lived up to all expectations. A gem of a mission in perfect company.

Knoydart traverse – Later summer. A long weekend of high camps and halcyon ridges with Soph. We started up Meall Buidh as the inversion rolled into the valley below and only ever dipped into the clouds once in two days on the way round. Camping on Ladhar Bheinn looking out at the Cuillin amongst a sea of cloud was indelible. The last day was a melter and we were in every lochan and pool on the way back to Inverie. A dreamlike adventure and perfect company again. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51795549860/in/dateposted/

Cruachan ridge – big snowy romp round the horseshoe starting from the Dalmally side with John. Joy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794883138/in/dateposted/

Best Nu Roots

Cotyledon and the Braid, Gallanach Cliffs – Ive always been convinced the Oban cliffs held good trad routes as well as sport potential. Good connies early in the year, as well as the threat of frenzied bolting in the area drove me to get these two E1’s done. The Braid gives a brilliant big pitch up 35m of the cleanest walls, following good strenuous cracks for the first half then more questy climbing up the top slabs. I had abbed down to scrub the lichen and check the rock (as had Rich, thanks Rich!), but the lead was as absorbing as any this year. The Swiss Machine repeated it in the summer and loved it too. Cotyledon was a different beast, taking a massive 35m double corner system starting in the woods and finishing at the lookout over Kilbowie and Kerrera. Climbing this with Andy was everything that’s great about intense trad experiences. Managing the mind, fear, gear, pump, and drag to climb something totally improbable. Would love to see someone try this. The grade was a loose fit…
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50821244337/in/photostream/ the Braid takes the slab 10m left of the route in this pic.

Letter From America, Creag nam Fitheach – with Claire in the early spring. This takes the big leaning headwall where America skips right into the chimney/groove. You lace the high break with cams before cranking for metres on monstrous jugs to a wee pulpit and gear, then a steep, well-protected mantle to finish. A true gem of a crag, especially in the spring and Autumn, and nice to contribute to it. This, Crucifixion Crack, Pocket Wall, Razor’s edge and The Trial are all mega in the low to mid grades. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794874873/in/photostream/

Runs the Fox – new route support holding the ropes for Rich on his winter projects. What looked from a distance like an easy hanging slab cutting though the crag turned into a thin as thin V 7 corner and slab with Stein Pulls, bridging and an impromptu one armer. More like bouldering with axes than anything id done previously. Magnificent lead by Rich! Video (and top quality rant) from Rich here: https://www.picuki.com/media/2671817369571858733

Best (worst) Spankings

Monkey man and Whales and Dolphins – Terminal, magnum grade pump on both (not helped by smeg and the buckets on whales and dolphins being more like hanging rock pools).

White Gyll Eliminate. Where the legend of Lakes Grading must come from…

Dirc Mhor, Shining Wall – Was going well and thought a new E3 Heres Jonny would be worth a punt. Couldn’t commit to 100% power on the boulder problem and slumped off. Tried to escape up Nature’s Raw and ended with an omnishambles of rope drag, repeated falls, and near hypothermia from the wind at the top (sorry Nick). Super buttress though! https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794894673/in/dateposted/

Troubles of the Heart – woe is me.

This thread is a wonderful excuse to remember and write things up, something I would otherwise neglect. Cheers all and good luck all for 2022!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: abarro81 on January 02, 2022, 08:38:30 pm
A slightly strange year, with periods of doing lots of climbing interspersed with periods of doing very little climbing!

Top three boulder problems, UK
Tourniquet - after a perfect forecast turned into a snowstorm we drove up the motorway in a blizzard. I thought Ella and Tanya were total idiots for wanting to carry on, there was no chance we would find dry rock and this was a total waste of time. Grumpy Alex came out, I moaned a lot... then as we turned up the valley the sun came out, everything was a stunning winter wonderland, we had a great afternoon climbing and this thing was ace, including the snowy death topout. A lesson to keep the faith!
Les Grands Doigts - I'm normally not a big grit fan, but this had really nice climbing and was a lovely day breaking through what felt like a pretty bleak period
Alliance Sit Start - like the above, my favourite problem from a day of trying to reconnect with the fun of being out climbing and enjoying the rock when things weren't going how I wanted
Top threetwo boulder problems, abroad
Triple X (Frankenjura) - not really a boulder since it's about 40 moves, all of which are easy, spinning around in a roof on jugs and knees. But of course that's my favourite kind of boulder...
Berühren verboten (Frankenjura) - board climbing at the foot of some ruins with a picture-perfect Franken view. Very nice! Such a nice place to hang out, if only Fj had giant tufa caves instead of short fingery routes!

Top three trad routes/solos UK
I did a few solos while resting my finger. Remember having fun but can't remember what I did!

Top three sport routes UK
Preposterous Tales (Kilnsey) - so much fun from a very cold Kilnsey season in the spring. Pretty cool being up in the roof working beta in the middle of a snowstorm! Redpointing on this was exactly what I want - getting psyched up with euphoric female vocal trance (I let myself use the 2009 Armin van Burren EM, something I save for "special occassions"!) and climbing in a flowy, aggressive way on a long route, getting pumped, taking big falls into space, hanging upside down in the post-crux knee... Magic. More, more, more please!
Guns in the Sky (Kilnsey) - first route back after 6 weeks off for the finger. So much fun! Cool first crux (knee bar, toe hook etc.) and a big arm-swing jump on the second crux. Can't believe it hadn't been done since Gaz did the FA, guess the wetness and dirt puts people off!
Barberosity (WCJ) - choss. I even smashed myself in the face with the jug I pulled off. But the inadvertent cut-lose-crimp-grab-big-swing mid falling off on the redpoint gets it ono the list

Top three routes France
Ultimate Sacrifice - I love long, pumpy, thuggy, full-body routes. In case anyone didn't already know that.
Le Souffle du Ragga - More full-body, leg pumping, head pumping, brilliance. This is why I train, this is why I go to Europe, this is why I climb.
La voie de marc - shaking out at the final rest, looking down the (insanely flood-devastated) valley after 40m of just-about-in-control glorious climbing... a reminder of just how much I love this stuff. Store away those memories  :)
Honorable mentions: Deverse Satanx because I felt strong, Nosferatu because it's a cool kneebar voyage through a wicked roof

Top three routes Franken
Ballermann - nice to flash something hard in FJ, with perfect beta from Ella. Also nice to see my finger can take some crimps if I only pull on them once!
Misterioso - roof crawling with 80% of moves off knees. Cool, and very un-franken!
Osho - Standard franken: PE on pockets at a micro-crag (that it only took about 3 days of bushwhacking to fail to find! thankfully local knowledge sorted us out)


Top three new routes/problems put up
Preposterous Tales - see above
Top Spankings
Life during early Spring - this really kicked my ass. At the risk of being #thankful and #blessed, I'm very grateful to everyone who helped me with my head this year - Ella, family, friends, fellow ukbers...
My kuckle - still dodgy as hell despite many efforts and much money. In a much better place with it mentally though.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wood FT on January 02, 2022, 08:56:46 pm
Grades please, Barros, you bloody drama king.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 03, 2022, 09:30:40 am
No mention of all the great hobbies he got to try while resting his finger either?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on January 03, 2022, 09:31:38 am
Top 3 custom kneepads self-sewn during finger resting.  :-\
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: bolehillbilly on January 03, 2022, 10:03:30 am
On reflection I've had a good year climbing despite a lot of other issues and complications off the rocks, so frustrating to be in current COVID situation. Enjoyed reading the thread and got time on my hands so thought I'd add my long list version.

Top 3 New Local Grit Boulders
Felt like a quieter year on the new problem front for various reasons but involved in another couple of new areas plus some more Bradley outliers after last year's gold rush. 
1.  Carmasutra 6C+ Highoredish
Took a few visits and some hip mobility work to do this, it's a bit like Bad Lip at Curbar, one of a number of good new problems from a local team effort at Highoredish.
2.  Hoodwinked 6B+ Robin Hood Quarries
The quarries were my go to new local spot during last year's early lockdown. Did of bunch of new stuff of local interest and I doubt they'll ever be climbed again after the scenes of last Jan/Feb. There's nothing superstandout but his was one of the first, looks like it should be easy but very knacky, failed to repeat it a few times since. Regularly visiting the quarries as winter turned into spring was a real pleasure of solitude, birdlife and changing light, felt like right place, right time.
3.  Belly Dancing 6A+ High Peak Incline Cuttings
 Highball arete on the incline opposite My Pet Daddy with an fairy unobvious solution. Involved taking all my pads in by wheelbarrow. I was thinking of headpointing My Pet Daddy too that afternoon but the wheelbarrow got a flat and I was knacked by the time I got there.

Top 4 Peak Grit Boulders

1. You Just Got Bonjoyed 6B+ Grinah Stones
Great climbing, a bit highball and a rare team scene send for me. Its the one behind the big slab, up the ramp with the high left heel, a rockover at the top and a haiku about the moon. Ive made up the name and grade for personal reference.
2. T Bone Wilson 7A  Black Garden
A great morning out with a bouldering legend at one of my favourite local spots  I'd done the stand before but climbed it from a sit by the hang the sloper top method this time.
3. Honorary Caley 7A Stanage
I tried to have a few trips north of the parish, mostly but I wasn't very successful at choosing the right options. However I managed this one onsight. Overall it was a good year on the slabs.
4. Crossdresser 7A Cademan
I had quite a few trips to Leicestershire this spring that fitted around other activities. Great getting to know a new to me area. This was one of those I've just got an hour what can I do? type successes.

Top 3 New Lime Boulders
Slim pickings, only managed 3 as I spent a lot of the summer driving to and from Lancashire.
1. Plastic Pulling Punter Problem 7A+ The P
Managed to find a few previously unused holds for this eliminate. Good moves, the ramp is out for feet so back around people
2. The Truth and Other Leys 6B+ The P
An ugly way into the ramp line of Leys and Deception from the right, double knee scum beta, you'd want to have done everything else at The P before this.
3. The  Gelatiere 6A Oddos Dale
A bonus find of some low quality dry rock on a wet morning exploring walk. Might just be worth revisiting.


Top 3 Lancs Boulders
1. Slipstream 7A+ Wilton
Finally got to Wilton Fest and then in typical style disappeared off by myself to The Allotment. In the afternoon went up and did a circuit in 2 with a few locals. Should have flashed this one but went second go. Did it from a sit as a warm up next visit.
2 . JRs Soft Shoe Shuffle 7A Wilton
Blew the onsight by watching Fiends Lancs vids on YouTube.
3. Nerds and The Knees 7A+ Stronstrey Bank
I went up to do Mirth of Ducks, another Fiend beta flash so went on a circuit and ended up here, good battle with fatigue and a perfect Stronstrey sunset.

Top 3 New Non Local boulders
1.  Ebb and Flow 6C Wilton 2
The blank corner right of Laminar Flow. Ugly, awkward and maybe harder for the tall. Unclassic but nice to get one in at Wilton.
2.  Come Fry With Me 6C Cable Bay, Anglesey
Did a few variations and eliminates, good rock and lovely location in a small bay South of the main beach. Named after a hearty breakfast.
3. Fingers Crossed 6C Crown Edge Quarry
A Fiend inspired visit enroute to Lancs. The grading here seemed a bit all over the show but it was a great stop off for a quick hit and had the bonus of a new one too.

Top 4 New Routes
Finally got my act together to put a rope on some lines in the book.
1  Happy Daze E1 Chasecliffe
Lovely spring day out with my daughter, direct up the middle of the buttress through some good steep grit. Maybe the best route at Chasecliffe?
2. Butterfly Effect E3 Bradley Quarry
Another perfect spring day doing some new routes and boulders in the quarry.  Wasn't sure about highballing this so borrowed Bonjoys ballnuts to protect the pull onto the shelf. Sort of wish I'd done it without.
3. Come on Pilgrim E3 Bradley Edge
Another one that might be a highball !! but used a rope and a couple of skyhooks.
4. Wurst Side Story E5 Black Rocks
Great slabbing left of Hot Dog Sniffer. Happy to get one on the local cliff. Thanks due to Mark20 who came along and shared some headpointing wisdom.

Top 3 Trad Routes
1. Bicycle Repair Man E1 Staden
A repeat from 30 years ago, first proper let's go do some trad with my daughter.
2.  Merlin Direct HVS Tremadog
Another 30yr plus repeat on a great long weekend with my daughter in NWales. Had forgotten how brilliant Tremadog is.
3.  Faces E5 Via Gellia Buttress
Went to hold a rope but the top peg had snapped so we ended up both top roping this. A great hidden gem first done by Shark in 1980 something, tough, hard to read. Keen to go back on this in the summer. Will post up in the recently cleaned thread if this gets sorted as the E3, and E2 (harder than the E3) are both brilliant and theres also a new E5 which is very good.

Top 3 Sport
Only went sporting  a few times all with my daughter but made me want to get back in the game next year.
1  El Sergio 6a Intake
I'd forgotten how good this actually is, great view from the belay too
2. Human Being Skewered 7a
Good line in a recently bolted local quarry.
3.  Another Roadside Attraction 6a Colehill
Did this a few times, nice to watch Evie work towards a redpoint back in May.


Top Spankings
1. Mantles.
2. Velvet Silence. See above and below.
2. I was laid out by COVID in October and still not recovered. Heading into long covid territory in the next few weeks unless there's a dramatic improvement, not sure what this will mean for 2022 plans.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: abarro81 on January 03, 2022, 10:38:32 am
Grades please, Barros, you bloody drama king.
I'm a zen hippie now, I don't do grades.
7C+/8A, 7C, 7B+
8A+, 7C+
8c+/9a, 8b+, 8b
8c+, 8b/+, 8a+, 8b, 8a+
8b, 8a+, 8a+


No mention of all the great hobbies he got to try while resting his finger either?
Moaning. Whinging. Pumping iron. Catastrophising. Facing the existential abyss. Running. Whining. Moping. Swimming. Pontificating.

Top 3 custom kneepads self-sewn during finger resting.  :-\
Top 3 gaffa-tape removal experiences. Top 3 did-the-pads-too-tight-and-pumped-my-legs out experiences (top 1 was in FJ actually, whilst learning to use the Blak pad; basically BFRd my leg)...
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on January 03, 2022, 01:45:28 pm


Where Eagles Dare, Scoor, Mull

During the cold snap in April/May, a perfect day and a perfect cliff. This was my third lead of the day and year and despite thinking I didn't stand a chance collected the rack and started wobbling my way up. It was an awesome mix of controlled terror, gear fiddling and really lovely climbing. An amazing spot:
https://imgur.com/uw6SVM5


Nice to meet you that day Iain  :wave: It all looked in control from the bottom! Great shot hehehe  ;) you couldnt get a bad one of Scoor. A magical place!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on January 03, 2022, 01:48:43 pm

I'm quietly confident you'll think the new route names are amongst the best in Europe. Safe to say Tom?

They are incredible. You should be very proud.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on January 03, 2022, 02:13:01 pm

Moonshine, Beinn Eighe. We weren't sure which route to finish on, so went all in for this and I got the crux pitch. I made decent progress, but had no ability to recover on the jugs. The climbing was fairly steady with a few tricky moves, then a bit of a run out the "foothold on the arete". I got this hold in my hands then got really pumped trying to get a bit of gear in a flake before committing to the move. I couldn't get it seated properly and eventually I just had to make do and go for the move, shouting to my partner to "watch me, this could be a bad one!" I almost got the move, but I was just too tired, fell off, the gear ripped and I went quite a long way before the next pieces caught me. It's a steep route and a safe fall, and the other gear was totally bomber. I was pleased that I'd managed to go for it, but frustrated that a) I could have probably just done the move and b) If I'd had more mileage I would have been able to shake out at my highpoint, rather than get more pumped. Partner didn't fancy it so we bailed.


Cor thats some flight. Glad you came out of it feeling positive! Can be very liberating experiences those big attempts. That move is such a great finale to the groove too, though i had the safety of seconding to enjoy it  :lol:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on January 03, 2022, 02:17:53 pm

Staying Power, Yew Cogar - newly retroed. Was expecting a fight but happily did it first go after a bolt-to-bolt with power to spare. The sun came onto the crag and we left to find Roger Deakin's "tufa pools" for a swim. The water was beautifully warm.


Lovely! Any clues as to where they are from the crag ;D? Ive looked for them from the top of the scar before but no luck.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ged on January 03, 2022, 03:21:36 pm

I'm quietly confident you'll think the new route names are amongst the best in Europe. Safe to say Tom?

They are incredible. You should be very proud.

It took me a while to see what you'd done there! But yes, they are bloody good names. My wife nearly divorced me after a few weeks of running potato based puns by her.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Will Hunt on January 03, 2022, 04:07:16 pm

Staying Power, Yew Cogar - newly retroed. Was expecting a fight but happily did it first go after a bolt-to-bolt with power to spare. The sun came onto the crag and we left to find Roger Deakin's "tufa pools" for a swim. The water was beautifully warm.


Lovely! Any clues as to where they are from the crag ;D? Ive looked for them from the top of the scar before but no luck.

I'll PM you. I've described how to get there and included a photo in the new select.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Nike Air on January 03, 2022, 04:24:55 pm


Is it wise to include that in the guide?

These places struggle to stay quiet as it is. Discretion and word of mouth is no doubt key.

Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on January 03, 2022, 05:34:45 pm
Cheers Will  :thumbsup:

Yeah that was a bit lazy of me... Not very in the spirit. Is it in any existing Wild Dipping TM guides allready? I thought there was a guy writing an entire Deakin pilgrimage guide?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Will Hunt on January 03, 2022, 06:15:31 pm
Not sure whether it's documented in any books. It's certainly easy enough to find photos and videos with a quick Google. The description given by Deakin predates the CRoW Act so his approach is convoluted, but it's fairly clear how to get there. The main thing that people get wrong when looking (as I did the first time I tried) is looking far enough from the crag; most people will be put off by the length of the approach.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: petejh on January 03, 2022, 06:23:47 pm
Top two trad routes
Did various things up to E5 but none I'd call really memorable for quality or position.

The Absconder's Finish, Rhoscolyn
Probably not on anyone else’s list ever of top trad routes, but every time I’ve visited Rhoscolyn I’ve always thought this line looked really attractive and crossed some impressive terrain for the lowly grade. Previously always had something better to do but this time due to having done most other things, my level of fitness, or just looking for a low commitment day I finally did it. And very good it was. Better than many 2 or 3-starred routes as is often the way. Also honorary mention to 'Truant RH Finish' - brilliant steep chossaineering, Fiend you'd love it.

Plagiarism, Falcon Crag
First trad route of the year and it left a strong memory. Bloody hell lakes E2 can be hard, at least I found this one to be.


Top two sport routes
Not much time spent at sport crags last year.

The Long Goodbye, Castell y Gwynt
Bolt to bolted this 8 or so years ago but hadn't gone back to finish it. Finally got back on it this year and it was a reminder of how amazing the rock is on the Gwynt, as if I needed it. In terms of rock quality and climbing style perhaps one of the few limestone crags I've climbed at in the UK on a par with continental sport crags.

Altered Carbon, Diamond
One of Dave Redpath's newies from a few years back when the Diamond was his 'local' crag. Really good climbing. Didn't actually finish it - got to last hard move twice and fell. One of those routes I loved just climbing on even if not 'doing'. Thanks Dave!


Top three new routes
Didn’t do many in 2021 (5 in total). Plenty in the pipeline for 2022.

Drag Race,  Semi-secret crag on the antrim coast
A grim-looking bit of cliff but this climbs really well, classic power endurance. A gem from the rough.

Swansong,  Secret crag, NI
Genuinely brilliant first route on a cool new crag. Perfect rock, lovely holds, flowy and pumpy, beautiful location. Lots more to do here and cant wait for the next one.

End of the World,  Inishmore
Massive layback flake. Standard 2-star Inishmore baseline quality as per all the routes that aren’t 3-star classics.


Top Spankings
Motion sickness on the Rosslare to Bilbao crossing last week.
24hrs of not being able to get up from the cabin bed without feeling horrible, on the roughest boat trip I've ever experienced, perhaps what it's like being a sock inside a washing machine. Escaping the UK to ski-tour and climb in the Pyrenees is worth it though.

Trowbarrow on a hot day.
Did one of those slippery E2 cracks in the full sun as the warm up, sweated buckets and got sun-baked and dehydrated. Then tried to onsight one of those E3s on the shady Red Wall.. holy shit it felt like climbing on bars of soap with dubious gear, each good-looking hold turning out to be a rounded slippery glassy flattie and each gear placement proving less than reassuring. Downclimbed from half height and spent rest of the day belaying with what felt like heat exhaustion. The pub down the road that serves cakes was amazing after though.

Thinking I was going to die at Gogarth.
Got birded off a VS at Easter Island Gully with gf. No probs, decided I'd climb out up the neighbouring route 'Rotten Gut' - described in the guide as a 'steep yellow rotting chimney'. Turned out I climbed the wrong steep yellow rotting chimney, and this one was unclimbed. Felt about E2 5a, loose/soft rock with poor gear, scary but doable with a calm head. But then it started raining as I neared the top. Pulled onto the steep slippery grass exit slope in the rain with my last runner 5m (i.e. 3 Standard Ste Mc's) below me in crap rock and with no gear until the abseil point 20m above. It took as long for me to inch up the grass as it took to climb the route below and was literally digging holes for purchase in the steep mud with my fingers and fully expecting to slip and go all the way. But no other way out. Horrible. Called the route 'Loose Guts'.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: dunnyg on January 03, 2022, 07:04:10 pm
Also love this threat, here goes!

Best 5 Boulders
Ben's Groove, Caley 7B. Never tried it before, always thought it was too hard. Got the beta off 36C and others who were on it and got it in a few goes. Boss moves, with some fear at the top.

Classic calf, Ilkely, 7B
Proved that there is still some power inside plus I burned Will off.

Calf Traverse, Ilkley, 7B +
watched a youth do it when working the above, worked it move by move to tick it during lamp sessions. Psyched off my face. Really enjoyed the process. Also ticked the 4 other Ilkely classic traverse onthe same night, best form of my life.

Trust, Guisecliff, 7B (?)
A tricky slab, not my bag, mega fun. This was the last hard boulder before I then tried the 7B in the cave behind it and knackered my pulley.

Blockbuster/Whisky Galore, Caley/Brimham (7A/7B)
Both things I have tried many times in passing and got nowhere on for years. I finally made the jump on blockbuster, and after realising I needed to guppy, went back and did it the first time I stuck the jump again. Whisky Galore I have just failed on repeatedly, but possibly some recent focus on stretching made it go fairly smoothly somehow!

Best 5 highballs

Old spice (E2/5+), Ilkley
A couple of moves long, I've stood under it many times and failed to commit. Finally gave in and dropped a rope down it for a quick brush, and then soloed it. Great to stop caring about ethics and just get on stuff. Keen to do this more!

Decurion (E1/2/6A+), Cold beck crag
Moved house and this is the nearest good looking line, a pleasant trip out with Will got me up this. High enough to be exciting, but steady. The HVS round to the right is much scarier and still on the list .

Rons Reach E1/6B, Caley
Best of the bunch, might have been the same day as Ben's groove, fell off a few times. Again, tall enough to be exciting, but good team psyche and 36C's cleaning efforts made the experience! I should repay the karma and brush up some of stuff by Syretts Saunter (The knobbler etc.)

Sonic, E3/6C, Thrope edge (Nidderdale)
FA. Went for an explore with my partner above nidderdale, and found a couple of craglets. One was already on UKC, but only the chimney in the middle had been done. An enooooormous roof (6/7 m horizontal), to a headwall of around 6m. Unfortunately the rock under the roof is a bit snappy, but the stuff above was premium quality.
Sonic sneaks up the roof on the left from a tricky hanging start. Once established, make some interesing moves up on edges to top out looking down nidderdale. Glorious. Got a load of other FAs, sent a topo to Will, but he refused to put it on unknown stones because I didn't put stars on the routes. C'est la vie!


Best 5 traddage
No hard trad but plenty of classic easies:

Porthgwarra face, VD, Porthgwarra (cornwall)
Ace, proper holiday climbing, got up this early doors then went for an icecream and a swim. Felt tropical, and felt like proper summer holiday mooching vibe time. Seems a long way from this December!

Bowfell Buttress, HS, Bowfell,
Did the big walk in in raging sun with the Mrs and followed another pair up it. Waiting around made it very chilled out, and we decided to pop over to scafell Pike and back. Turned it into a much bigger day! Managed to score some pizza and chips on the way back to Yorkshire. Knackered afterwards! More of this please.

Cneifon Arete, D, Cwm Cniefon.
A repeat ascent with my partner. This was the first multipitch we did, the first time there was tears and epic, this time she lead the crux and we moved together up the rest. Everyone had a nice day, and my partner was super psyched, great to see! End of an amazing week in wales ticking classics and just abandonning the car at the campsite for a week. Everything we did this week wa great, with Gashed crag, ampithere buttress and some of the milestone buttress routes all being part of the picture.

Oxford + cambridge direct, S, Grey crag buttermere
I love this crag. A big trog uphill in, then loads of link ups. Me and partner had a couple of mountian weekends before this, and the walk in felt chilled. We then did 5 or 6 roues in a day finishing with this one. Great climbing, in a beautiful position, followed by a mooch back over the tops, looking over at Pillar (!). Delicious.

Stickle gill, Grade II, langdale (its not a trad so it doesn't count!)
Scrambled up here on an evening. One exciting step which looked a bit improbable and some interesting ones in between. Much more interesting than walking up the path.

Top spankings
Down under, Nought bank, 7B
Got on this after doing Trust. It did bad things to my A2 pulley in about April. I didn't pull hard again until November. Absolute nob.

Barguest Direct, Trollers gill, 7a
The only hard sport I tried this year. Thought it would make a good quick tick to get back in the swing. I did ok up to the final bolt, rested once or twice to get up there on bolts as a working go. I then failed to do the top moves. Didn't tie in for hard sport again. Maybe this year. My head game for trying hard on a rope is in absolute tatters.

Gritty shaker, 7C, somewhere near bingley
Couldn't touch it. Leapt for the holds repeatedly and got nowhere.Good line but just can't see me going back.

Scotland
A mixture of weather and guts (see below) meant I still didn't climb a rock route in Scotland.  We managed to get up curved ridge and ring of Steall which somewhat made up for it, but the promise of these stonking multipitch classics was snatched away agan.

Guts (4+/8B+/8C)
After recovering from my finger injury my insides then rebelled, cancelling my climbing plans for the last 2 months of 2021. They also fucked up my first trip to Skye in the summer, where I spent a week lying in bed instead of adventuring round the on those classic multipitch.



All in all, did some great local bouldering and some great big easy trad round the UK, despite avoiding everyone for a year, and various maladies. More of all of it please!


Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Will Hunt on January 03, 2022, 08:09:09 pm
Got a load of other FAs, sent a topo to Will, but he refused to put it on unknown stones because I didn't put stars on the routes. C'est la vie!

I'd forgotten about this. I think it was more that I asked you to assign some stars to help users of your guide get around the crag and you refused and I never got round to arguing with you about it more. You don't have to spray stars around but there must be climbs there that are worth at least 1!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: dunnyg on January 03, 2022, 08:25:05 pm
I think it's good for non FAs to star things. Bang one on Sonic and the jobs good.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: 36chambers on January 03, 2022, 10:02:39 pm
Remember dunnyg that Wayfinder is benchmark 3 stars. So following on from that, just being a piece of rock that exists is enough to warrant 1 star.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: cheque on January 03, 2022, 10:30:24 pm
Motion sickness on the Rosslare to Bilbao crossing last week.
24hrs of not being able to get up from the cabin bed without feeling horrible, on the roughest boat trip I've ever experienced, perhaps what it's like being a sock inside a washing machine.

Around the time I turned 20 my mate “won” a trip to Amsterdam for four people. We were fucking psyched. Turned out it was basically just a way for a ferry company to get people on their off-season crossings and spending money at the restaurant, duty-free, arcades etc. I can’t remember the exact ratio of time on the ferry vs time in Amsterdam but it was heavily in Stena Line’s favour. Ferrys take ages.

It was late December and the ferry left from Newcastle. It was so windy that we were fucking about doing that thing where you fully lean into the wind and the strength of it keeps you upright out on the deck before it sailed. We got into our cabin and were laughing at how there were seatbelt-like straps for each of the four bunks…

Anticipating a need for it later in the trip I went and bought a bag of weird European Haribo the size of a pillowcase from the duty-free once we were sailing. By the time I was walking back to the cabin the ship was swaying like fuck  :???:. There weren’t many people about and I was staggering around like something off a Popeye cartoon to avoid falling into the walls.

I got back and rather than getting ready to go down to the bar all my mates were in their bunks. Some had the seatbelts on. Little did we realise that it hadn’t even got bad yet. To entertain us on the long journey one of us had brought a battery-powered cassette deck and he put on one of our top jams, cassette two of the then-nine-year-old Telstar pop-house compilation Deep Heat 90.

For hours upon end the choppiness and extreme nausea meant that none of us could leave our bunks to change the tape but “luckily” the deck had an auto reverse function whereby it would repeat each side as soon as the other ended in an infinitive loop. After a few plays through the batteries were running out but the mobility situation remained the same so the music continued, precluding any chance of sleep, until they died.

It’s a miracle that none of us were physically sick in that cabin, particularly when you consider how much Haribo had been consumed. For many reasons I remember little about the rest of the trip but the nightmarishly trippy slowed-down sounds of Black Pearl’s Naked in the Rain, Betty Boo’s Doin’ the Do and Spin that Wheel (Turtles Get Real) by Hi Tek 3 feat. Ya Kid K haunt me to this day.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: ashtond6 on January 03, 2022, 10:31:20 pm
Haven't been on ukb for quite a while but Reeve reminded me this thread exists & what a great thread it is!

The various stories are really relatable and actually comforting. 2021 was the first time in my life that I've struggled with purpose and/motivation (maybe a depression?).  My climbing suffered but I seem to be on an upward trajectory through being more strict with myself!


Top boulder problems, UK

Cock o rock stanage 7A - not a great overall problem but brilliant move. However, after 10 days of sickness followed by 14 days isolation, this interesting move felt almost spiritual.

Yates' layaway harmers 6B+ - lovely proud highball line

Twister 7B - pleased to do this quickly on a perfect evening after a long winter

Sheep shagger 7A+ cave dale


Top trad routes/solos UK

Didn't do much this year...
Lighthouse arete VS - first see cliff in many years & the wifes first abseil. Felt amazing to be down there with very straightforward climbing. Saw a puffin.

Shock horror slab 6C - last light, almost dark. Felt hard and like I was floating at the same time. Not my normal type of route but I enjoyed this alot.


Top sport routes UK

Fuji hidden 7a+ - not the best of routes but it was 30 degrees and extremely high humidity - I thought I had no chance and just wanted to jump in the river. Ended up getting high, slapping for holds at the top. Being fully absorbed in the climbing is always a great experience.

Pistol whipped dove dale 7a - I enjoyed finding obscure routes in different places. I thought this was a little gem in a fantastic setting.

Ozone bozo 7c - really liked this, slappy bouldery climbing with a RP crux right at the top. I did this on the first climbing session with an old friend for 4 years (as they'd moved abroad).

Tuckers grave, intake 7a - a ladder of one pad edges on grippy rock!

Metal and dust deep rake 7b+ - sustained PE, really nice crag. Not my usual style which was rewarding.


Top three routes abroad

Gerovit 7a Paklenica - getting abroad after 2 years was special. A fine natural arch in 35 degree heat.

Knapping alien 12a - I admired this line back in 2014 when I was climbing 5.8, it felt great to come back and cruise it.

Espresso crack 11d/12a - Little Egypt in Bishop is an amazing setting of granite domes, with pines and boulders everywhere. Espresso crack is the proudest line of the area and I almost fell off the last hard move after skipping gear. Again, great try hard commitment at the top.

Middle crack 12a - sustained fingers with zero feet felt like the most fun climbing style I'd ever done! Stunning.

Everything in Yosemite Valley - after two weeks of trying hard, it was great to just spend time in the valley with my wife and put roles up for her. The highlight was probably Peruvian flake 10a, but they were all fantastic, with fantastic weather.


Top Spankings

Rimsky-Korsakov - my UK trad head really had got bad. I was like a shaking puppy on safe and ok terrain. Not sure I have the desire anymore.

Everything at paklenica - the 5s felt like 6bs, the 6cs felt like 7bs!

Double bock 5.12b - I found this really really hard - it took a few sessions to RP it. Its a famously hard size (baggy purples/very tight greens with feet in silvers) but a great learning experience.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: highrepute on January 04, 2022, 11:57:00 am

the punters (me)

1. Desparete 7B
2. Book of Tricks 7B
1. Son of Kong 7B
2. The Giant Peach 7B

1. Supercool 8a+

1. Pretty Girls Make Graves, E6.
2. Barbarossa, E6,
1. Paralysed Power, E6.

I don't think you're allowed to call yourself a punter with that ticklist Duncan!

We live round the corner from each other now. You'll have to come round for a board session.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2022, 12:07:26 pm

Rons Reach E1/6B, Caley
Best of the bunch, might have been the same day as Ben's groove, fell off a few times. Again, tall enough to be exciting, but good team psyche and 36C's cleaning efforts made the experience!

Memory of playing on this for a few sessions before finally surprising myself by getting across the traverse and into the groove, fluked my way up it to get hands on the top, but finding it was green, damp and filthy. And all that was below me was one nervous spotter and a crappy wee Megagrip pad (remember those, just 2 steps up from a teatowel). I remember pointlessly smearing chalk into the green dampness and pulling up the sleeve of my fleece and trying to wipe away some of the moss and then clawing about in the grass trying to grab a big enough clump to pull up with.  Eventually teetered up enough to do a sort of forward mantel roll / fosbury flop as far from the edge as possible.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 04, 2022, 12:21:51 pm

the punters (me)

1. Desparete 7B
2. Book of Tricks 7B
1. Son of Kong 7B
2. The Giant Peach 7B

1. Supercool 8a+

1. Pretty Girls Make Graves, E6.
2. Barbarossa, E6,
1. Paralysed Power, E6.

I don't think you're allowed to call yourself a punter with that ticklist Duncan!

We live round the corner from each other now. You'll have to come round for a board session.

Haha can’t i call myself a very persistent punter?

Oooh yeah that would be great!! Be great to see you and Ellie!

Hope you had a good year :)
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: andy popp on January 05, 2022, 07:31:07 am
This year's thread has been an absolute corker. Well done everyone!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: moose on January 05, 2022, 07:50:24 am

Rons Reach E1/6B, Caley
Best of the bunch, might have been the same day as Ben's groove, fell off a few times. Again, tall enough to be exciting, but good team psyche and 36C's cleaning efforts made the experience!

Memory of playing on this for a few sessions before finally surprising myself by getting across the traverse and into the groove, fluked my way up it to get hands on the top, but finding it was green, damp and filthy. And all that was below me was one nervous spotter and a crappy wee Megagrip pad (remember those, just 2 steps up from a teatowel). I remember pointlessly smearing chalk into the green dampness and pulling up the sleeve of my fleece and trying to wipe away some of the moss and then clawing about in the grass trying to grab a big enough clump to pull up with.  Eventually teetered up enough to do a sort of forward mantel roll / fosbury flop as far from the edge as possible.

I had a similar experience - at the end of an afternoon Caley session I decided to have a quick feel of the holds, just before leaving for home.  Just to weigh it up as a potential future project, with no intent of climbing it. 

To my surprise, I found myself in the groove and unsure how to ascend the grot.  My pad was several metres away under the start, I had no spotter and the crag was deserted, and it was rapidly getting dark.  I spent what felt like an age weighing up the expected outcome of a deliberate fall from the base of the groove, versus the possibility of an accidental fall from higher up.  After much anguished indecision,  I eventually decided to negociate the damp scrittle and gracelessly made it to the top.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on January 05, 2022, 08:02:07 am
Caley seems to do that - lull you by apparent roadsideness. I had a prepads  era evening soloing there and did Angel's Wall, Rabbit's Paw Wall and was feeling good so went for it on the other classic "HVS" Solo - Permutation Rib and was faced with some precarious moves high up above a fall I didn't want to take as it was getting dark and lonely. Luckily I pressed on and made it.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: dunnyg on January 05, 2022, 08:22:35 am
All I can say is, I'm glad it had had a scrub!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: NaoB on January 06, 2022, 08:52:15 pm
Nearly didn't bother with this as I was feeling naffed off with a bad year.... But reading everyone else's entries got me psyched again!

Top 3 sport

Dark Stranger, Kilnsey - the first 'hard' route I got up this year, a stepping stone to regaining fitness and bravery after busting my ankle at the start of the year. Adding my twopence to the grade debate, I'd say it's a solid 7c/7c+/8a....

Bullet, Kilnsey - phew, I actually pulled together what I needed for one day of the year!

The Roof.... Is On Fire, HADA, Leonidio - I allowed myself to try one 8a on holiday, vowing that I'd mostly be having fun onsighting rather than strapping in to one piece of rock all trip. Thankfully it went down 3rd tie in, so no sieging required. Powerful boulder with a wacky sequence, into disorientating upside down kneebar nonsense.

Honourable mentions for "If Six Was Nine" at Dumbuck and "Stingray" and "Dorado" at The Fin - my first sport routes of the year where I allowed myself to push into 'falling above a bolt' territory. Keen for more Scottish sport this year for sure.

Top trad

Er, well, this didn't go to plan.... Only had two days placing trad gear this year and falling wasn't an option!

Monkey Puzzle, Heptonstall - out bumbling with friends and actually found a pitch I hadn't climbed before. Good value for HVS, airy sideways pumpfest above the rabbit ledge.

Redex, Ravens Crag, Threshthwaite - did this in 1 pitch, the top groove was surprisingly hard and committing. Enjoyed seconding Boy Racer afterwards, that's a class line.

Top boulders

It was all going so well until I dropped off onto a hidden rock at Trowbarrow in January. Prior to that, I really enjoyed Low Pressure at West Chevin, used some detailed beta off an old ukb thread to solve its mysteries.

I've only just progressed to being able to fall on pads again in the last month or so. Scraped my way up two soft 7B+'s:

Noisy Cricket, Stronstrey Bank - suitably low ball!

Jawa Original, Manor Crag - one hard move into interesting crack climbing. Again not too high.

Top Spankings

The Keel - tickled the top pocket, then didn't get a rematch. Again. Grrrr.

La Capelle, Shucks - this requires both strength and fitness, guess that's why I failed!

Life - ulcerative colitis flare-up from November 2020 to November 2021, busting my ankle, caring for my terminally ill father, dealing with his death in the summer, flippin' covid, blah blah blah.

No doubt this year will bring a whole new set of challenges, but I'm going to try hard and have a grand time nonetheless. Bring it on!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fultonius on January 06, 2022, 09:05:24 pm

Honourable mentions for "If Six Was Nine" at Dumbuck and "Stingray" and "Dorado" at The Fin - my first sport routes of the year where I allowed myself to push into 'falling above a bolt' territory. Keen for more Scottish sport this year for sure.



You're based down South right? You must be the only person in history psyched to travel for Scottish sport!  Dumbuck is only 25 mins drive for me and I've done 2 routes there....   Neither of which were If 6 was 9 (should that not be if 6 were 9??)  I saw a comment saying the bolts needed work. I've now got a drill and been meaning to tidy up a few routes at some point, so I should really get on it.

Give me a shout if you need a belay, I should be fairly available this year midweek if things go to plan. Also keep to get to tunnel wall and start figuring out Axiom.

P.S. went through a similar dad thing 6 years ago (maybe 7 now...?) and it does get easier but I still miss the old bugger!


Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: NaoB on January 06, 2022, 10:09:30 pm

Honourable mentions for "If Six Was Nine" at Dumbuck and "Stingray" and "Dorado" at The Fin - my first sport routes of the year where I allowed myself to push into 'falling above a bolt' territory. Keen for more Scottish sport this year for sure.



You're based down South right? You must be the only person in history psyched to travel for Scottish sport!  Dumbuck is only 25 mins drive for me and I've done 2 routes there....   Neither of which were If 6 was 9 (should that not be if 6 were 9??)  I saw a comment saying the bolts needed work. I've now got a drill and been meaning to tidy up a few routes at some point, so I should really get on it.

Give me a shout if you need a belay, I should be fairly available this year midweek if things go to plan. Also keep to get to tunnel wall and start figuring out Axiom.

P.S. went through a similar dad thing 6 years ago (maybe 7 now...?) and it does get easier but I still miss the old bugger!




Blame ukc for the grammar!

If down south means below the Scottish border.... We're based in Lancashire, so it's about 3 1/2 hours drive. But we have relatives in Glasgow, which makes the journey more appealing. Honestly, we really enjoyed Dumbuck, the approach was very entertaining jungle bashing but the rock quality and shapes were stunning.

We've got major plans for more trips up north, bouldering and sport, all recommendations greatly appreciated.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fultonius on January 06, 2022, 10:38:42 pm
I see!  That makes more sense with the family connection. And yes, South of the border, even if you're "Northern" by the usual definition, is what I was meaning.

Obviously the sport/bouldering at Dumbarton is also good. Tunnel wall is only 1hr 40 and, once you get past, Dumbarton the rest of the drive is through nice scenery.

Is the old rope still there at Dumbuck? We cut a bit of a better approach a few years back, but I'm guessing it's lost in the jungle now. One big tip is be very careful with the ticks - a few known Lyme's cases from bites around there.

There's not a lot else in short hitting distance for sport. Cambusbarron has some really nice single pitch trad in the E3-E5/E6 range.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: NaoB on January 06, 2022, 10:44:38 pm
The rope is still there, albeit a bit grotty. We tried two different approaches (up the ropes from below and also across the fields from the housing estate), both of which were tricky to navigate, but the jungle hill seemed better on balance.

You're right about the ticks - Jordan got his very first tick there, thankfully my uncle had a proper tick remover and we got it off promptly.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2022, 08:10:16 am
I'm surprised you came all this way to climb at the Fin! Hopefully you did some other stuff in the area and didn't just sample the bright lights of Findon?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: NaoB on January 07, 2022, 09:25:26 am
We checked out Red Wall Quarry and Sportlethen but mostly climbed at the Fin. We really rated it! Amazing angles, quiet, great fishing / chilling / swimming spot.

We also want to visit Orchestra Cave but it was full on bird season when we were there in the summer. Will have to go back in spring or autumn.

Dunkeld and the camel are on the list too.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fultonius on January 07, 2022, 09:28:45 am
I'm surprised you came all this way to climb at the Fin! Hopefully you did some other stuff in the area and didn't just sample the bright lights of Findon?

Does it ever make you think we might be a bit overly negative about what we have in our local vicinity?

It's got me thinking about Dumbuck for the spring  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2022, 09:53:51 am
Nah, Findon is a hole!

TBH, I know that if you get it in good nick The Fin has some amazing climbing, but still don't think it's a patch on some of the sport crags down south, there isn't much there. Better trad and mountain routes nearby. Have you got Jules Lines' new Ballater Guide yet? Has got me a wee bit psyched for some trad, and there has been some new sports stuff developed on the coast near me.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: webbo on January 07, 2022, 10:08:21 am
So the best of 2021.
I didn’t set any goals as I find I get more obsessed than is healthy.
Only think I did want to achieve was to get a board built having been without one of a year. Managed to build it myself at the end of January.
I climbed out side 10 times and may have done a 7A+ and a 6C+.
I did 8 fingerboard sessions and 54 weight training sessions.
I went to climbing wall 3 times.
I used the turbo trainer 14 times.
I cycled 5,392 miles in rides from 14 miles to 150 miles.
I climbed on my board 137 times.
I also lived long enough to receive my state pension.
I didn’t break myself.
Whoops forgot to include spankings.
An arête on the Honister boulders that I couldn’t do as I couldn’t get my toe on a hold due to my arthritic hip.
Walking for 45 minutes with 2 pads and failing to find an obscure boulder on the NY moors. Going back the following week finding it but failing to do anything as it was in full sun with no breeze.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: sherlock on January 07, 2022, 11:36:37 am

Walking for 45 minutes with 2 pads and failing to find an obscure boulder on the NY moors. Going back the following week finding it but failing to do anything as it was in full sun with no breeze.
[/quote]
That sounds familiar.
As a matter of interest which boulder webbo?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: webbo on January 07, 2022, 01:15:23 pm
Daleside I think. I found it by looking at the satellite picture and counting how many shooting butts    I need to walk past.
I haven’t rushed back.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: sherlock on January 07, 2022, 03:09:57 pm
Cheers and duly noted.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Gus on January 07, 2022, 04:06:25 pm


Best thread ever as per usual! Some great stuff on here already, the stories always make me chuckle and the psyche is infectious!!! For the first time in a long time, climbing took a back seat over work commitments, but it's an easy trade when work involves fake fighting, shooting people/ getting shot and jumping around like a maniac!
As such it's nice to look back and realise that I did get some stuff done, and was really really fun!
Keep 'em coming people!!

Top three boulder problems, UK

Faith RH, 7a, Roche Abbey
Ace multi activity day that started with skiing at the Norfolk arms with a great crew, followed by a quick drive out for a lovely sunny solo bouldering session. Who needs Chamonix!!! Think I went kickboxing in the evening too! Love big days!

Dish Grab, 6b+, Roaches
Had a lovely trip over to the mutherland in the autumn, with obligatory and always entertaining catch up and reminisce with Mark S and Andi T. Basically climbed on every metre of dry rock, and realised that even though I named and graded this problem, I’d never actually done it!!! Reminded me of getting a package through the post from Grimer whilst writing the Roaches guide with the cover letter saying “if you don’t know a name or grade, make it up… YOU HAVE THE POWER!!”

Unthinkable, (Shoreditch Boulder), 7a
The Shoreditch and Hackney boulders really saved my bacon at the start of the year when I was working down in London loads and having COVID tests that last 2 seconds but leave you in London with nothing to do, no gyms or climbing walls open, until the next day. Was expecting these boulders to be a bit naff but they’re absolutely perfect and would be good blocks of rock anywhere in the world. Mental!!

Top three boulder problems, abroad
VOID!!

Top three trad routes/solos UK

10 O’Clock Saturday Morning, E7 6c, Nesscliffe
Obligatory Nesscliffe trip early season,  I flipping love that place. Meant to to do this for ages but always did other routes. Was hilarious belaying Gibb when he pulled a hold off the top out, by my own admission I’d taken my eye off the ball and thought he was in. He went miles and we laughed for about ten minutes straight.

Helmut Schmidt, E6 6b, Electric Quarry
Ooooooooh! I had a great experience on this. All work and no climbing makes for some very entertaining scenes as it turns out. Didn’t help that it was in the boiling sun! I had two separate moments on this where it went through my head “shit, I’m off” and actually momentarily mentally and physically gave up, but just sensed I had about 1% more to give somehow, the sort of feeling that you probably only get from a lot of climbing over a lot of years. Reckon you could have heard the sound of me slapping the last break over in Curbar.

Majolica, E3 5c, Beeston
One of a selection of great climbs on a very entertaining and eventful visit to Beeston Tor where we totally screwed up the approach and ended up vertical bushwhacking through face high nettles with 70% body stings including in our mouths, ears and on our faces! I had a Katana sword in the van that I joked at the car park about bringing along. Totally should have taken it!!! You live and learn.

Top three sport routes UK

The Day of The Long Knives, 7b+, Rhubarb Buttress
Class route at a new venue!! Reachy and tough!

Spare Rib, 7b, Portland
Medium hard moves, swimming and jumping in the soup, followed by lush pints at the Cove House Inn. What’s not to like??

My Body is a Stemple, 7b, Deep Rake
Thought this was absolutely brilliant and left me with the mistaken impression that I was quite fit despite not climbing much, then promptly jetted off to Kalymnos, turns out that theory doesn’t work when the routes are tilted 30-45 degrees!!

Top three routes Kalymnos

Armati Sikati, 7b+, Sikati Cave
10 Years since I’d been to Skate cave! Why oh why??? Absolutely magnificent venue and got the full experience on this on sighting it with minimal fitness.

Commandante Jorge, 7b+, Telendos
It’s always ace going to new venues with loads to go at, didn’t find this the soft tough everyone seems to think, has something broken (looked like there might have been?) anyway, class route, made better by being ferried back by the boat Captain that the Route’s named after!!

Tzivaeri, 7b, Secret Garden
One to do when you’ve done everything else you can do at the crag! Spiiiiiicy hard boulder sequence right off the deck. Another climber was keen for me to leave the clips in for him, but after watching me on it, I could hear him and his partner conversing in a language foreign to me, but just know that they were saying “f**k that!” So I obviously didn’t sell it. Sure enough, he had me strip it after!

Top three DWS


Escobar, E4 6b (for the fall), Lulworth.
Never done this one, slipped off it first go and halfway through the air I’d obviously picked up dome habits through work and for some reason decided to do a “stunt fall” onto my mid back. It’s not a high route but the splash was like a torpedo going off. Won’t be doing that again, especially from any higher!!

Lower Than Whale Shit, 6c+, Lulworth
Classic low tide DWS esoteria and quite tough!

Sugar Daddy, 7a, Deep Zawn.
Second session of the day catching the 2nd tide, though I’d check out “Deep Dawn” which is a fantastic low venue which is great for jumping off! Still couple of projects there if anyones keen?

Top Spankings

Totem Pole, 7c+, Telendos.
Apparently quite soft touch, but not after scuba diving down to 35metres previously. Felt like a shadow of myself!

Honourary Boux
Well named, had a good go but hanging my heavy carcass off those pockets felt a bit much!!
The Great Tribulation, E6 6c, Hipley Hill.

Fat fingers plus that top crack = Spankathon! Figured out a way crimping the edge of the crack but felt desperate!

Top 3 Jobs..

BBC series about the formation of the Special Air Service: 
This is gonna be absolutely class. Did some work getting completely brassed up by the notorious “Paddy Mayne” in the iconic scene where he massacres a whole German air base bar.

Weird series about military witch hunters:
 This included getting trained by a legendary and controversial ex-SAS dude who was an absolute hoot, getting set on fire, and driving main actors in a suave SUV at warp speed across a field, after which they looked suitably rattled so I knew I’d done a good job.

Stunt Doubling Bollywood’s biggest action star:
 Not that he needed it, he’s an absolute ninja and much more talented than me (if a bit more breakable and not as expendable)
 Basically involved setting up and testing his stunts to make sure he didn’t die, followed by throwing myself off a roof with my hair dyed black, wearing stylish specs and a suave suit!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: BrutusTheBear on January 08, 2022, 01:21:19 am
I was beginning to wonder what on earth you could possibly do for work to start with Gus but you answered the question in the end!

Always a great thread for inspiration.

Top 3 Boulder Problems.
Appliance Friction 6b - Stanton In The Woods - A new venue to me that I scoped out on a rainy day a few years ago. Managed a weekend trip to the Peak in October this was the first problem we climbed.  No pulling required beautiful faith in friction gritstone smearing, a great way to reacquaint with the grit.

The Prow 7b - Leigh Tor - Dartmoor - Not granite! (Quartz veined tourmalinised hornfels apparently.).  Brilliant feature that requires some grunt to get up.  Didn't go down easily, really enjoyed the process of working it and sent it in November on my 5th session with the first snow flakes of the winter falling, satisfying!  (Worth seeking this one out if you're in the area and it's within your pay grade.  V. short walk in and slightly more skin friendly than the granite).
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWv2o5Uo9Jh/?utm_medium=copy_link
How to Spoon Feed Blue Rays 7b - Tintagel - Cornwall - A nemesis problem that I had tried first over 10 years ago. Not the most aesthetic line in the world but memorable for the fact that it went down with relative ease after all this time (apparently you can better at some things with age! ).

Top 3 Boulder FAs

Where The Wild Things Are 6b - Exmoor Coast - A hanging prow/arete in a remote place that feels quite airy. Climbed it in the golden light of a coastal sunset just beautiful.
https://www.instagram.com/p/COlFfQ7D6NA/?utm_medium=copy_link

Heroes In a Half Shell 7b - Exmoor Coast - A very fickle roof that isn't in condition often and is a long way from the road! A spell of good weather in the summer allowed me to start working problems here. This is the hardest so far, super steep and required a full repertoire of trickery to get up.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSMXJiKj6Al/?utm_medium=copy_link
Bear Necessities 7b - Exmoor Coast - A hard pull to a slopey crimp and a flick to a sloper, the crux being holding the sloper and reeling in the swing without losing contact (easy moves beyond) . A boulderers boulder! 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPGHznHjOU-/?utm_medium=copy_link

I didn't tie in during 2021 and it is the first year for a long time I didn't DWS either.

I had a brilliant road trip to Scotland with the family in the summer.  Managed one problem at Carrick Castle but all attempts at bouldering sessions were unsuccessful due to midges! (The weather was stunning for the 3 weeks we were up there so no complaints!)
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 08, 2022, 05:21:21 am
Hi Brutus.

Great to see someone blogging from the north Devon/Somerset area.

I did a lot of prospecting around there a *few years ago. Was living in Ilfracombe.

Great to hear about activity on that beautiful stretch of coastline. I'd be quite interested in maybe travelling down when it's a bit warmer - maybe to have another look at some of the stuff round the back of hangman (Gritstone Wall area). Don't know how much development it's had. I may post up a couple of pics.

These year end round-ups are a great source of inspiration  ;D

* 38 f'ing years ago
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: BrutusTheBear on January 08, 2022, 09:45:57 am
Hi Brutus.

Great to see someone blogging from the north Devon/Somerset area.

I did a lot of prospecting around there a *few years ago. Was living in Ilfracombe.

Great to hear about activity on that beautiful stretch of coastline. I'd be quite interested in maybe travelling down when it's a bit warmer - maybe to have another look at some of the stuff round the back of hangman (Gritstone Wall area). Don't know how much development it's had. I may post up a couple of pics.

These year end round-ups are a great source of inspiration  ;D

* 38 f'ing years ago
. Cheers Dave, It's really tricky to piece together what has been done on the Exmoor Coast because climbing activity is so sporadic and the people climbing here are few.  There's no contemporary guidebook coverage either.  I have recently been  put in touch with Martin Crocker who has a love for this stretch of coast too.  We are going to share info and cobble something together. So really interested to see your pics. There is actually some OK bouldering very close to/in Ilfracombe.  The new stuff I have done is on the very remote stretch of coast between Foreland Point and Porlock. Give me a holler if you make it down here.
I love this thread because it inspires to visit different places and highlights problems/routes that have given others good experiences.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 08, 2022, 10:41:17 am
Don’t normally bother with this either but have some time to kill in Spain on a rest day.

This year work got in the way again, with timings. After the last 2 years though had to make it a priority as you never know when it might dry up with the way Covid has been.

Top 3 Trad routes.

Didn’t do much but what I did was all fun and memorable.

Easel-EE - E7 6c - Rhoscolyn.

Did straight after the other E7 at the crag. Easel EE was harder and more sportier than its neighbour so could relax more and enjoy the moves more, and the warm orange rock.

Dinosaur - E5 6a - Gogarth

Great route. Not the best connies. First trad route of year which was exciting. E5’s on main cliff are always top class.

Meirionnydd - E7 6b - Moelwyn Bach

Early repeat of Caffs new route on an amazing blank looking wall. Straight up the middle. Good gear just over halfway and steady run out climbing to top. Crux being a slightly bold start protected by micros. The perfect micro hard route.

Top 3 Sport Routes

Mandela 8a+ish - Kinsey

What a route. Out there. Pumpy. So much history.

Full Tilt - 8b - Kilnsey

Not the best route but was memorable for other reasons. Pretty much my first 8b in a day. Tried briefly after doing the thumb but didn’t make much progress a few days earlier. It also opens up True North which was also a brief project this year. Sadly with a trip away with work looming the excellent side partner of Full on action was made priority. Also the scenes on North Buttress make everything better. Seeing Northern lights getting endless traffic, psyche was high from everyone. Good scenes.

It Takes Glue To Tango - 7c+ - Devils Gorge

Best route down here. And also one of the later additions. Very Euro in style and memorable finish

Top 5 Blocs

Lockdown Fatigue - 7c+ - Mallory Boulder

End of a perfect bluebird day in Wales. Had already done The Cairn and was totally knackered. Walking down in almost dark JB decided to try this. I had cooled down already and was in going home mode. JB said it was my style. I get tempted. Decide to have one go. Flash it with some funky beta. Out beta’d Caffs FA which was also rather cool.

The Prow - 7c - Carrock

A day rescued with awful weather. Driving up we didn’t think we would get anything done. This was a bonus at the end of the day. Great moves and great line. Should have flashed as didn’t read guide and being a proper sit. So got to do it twice!

The Cairn (Crouch) - 7c+ - Mallory Boulder

Again, that bluebird day. Perfect connies. Scary bloc, amazing moves. Had given up on proper sit so tried to rescue day with crouch start. Pulled out of bag at end of day. Then almost did the sit few goes later. Reminder that no matter how tired you are always have that last go!





Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 08, 2022, 12:05:15 pm
Another year older, an even greater struggle to remember where I've been and what I’ve done. As the chains of adulthood weigh ever heavier, less a list of highlights than the highlights being managing to get out at all.

31st Jan - Thick End of the Wedge. After a frustrating fourth session on this in Dec I out it on the back burner for a bit and came back to it. Went ok and felt well worth 8A vis Cofe’s detailed sequence but a bit frustrated to realise more efficient beta was available.
20th April - Best day out of the year with the old crew reunited for a day of Great Wolfrey deathballing. It was a bit crimpy and my stamina was lacking, so struggled to keep up but finally managed to get up Little Red Riding Hood amongst others. Again, not the most satisfying ascent due to being last up and far too nearly dropping the topout for comfort, and the repeated lobs upset my back which has been good for the last few years. But at least I climbed the crux well. Much as I like a pad stack, a lead with two of runners would be my recommended approach for this.
Highlight of May was a weekend at Gogarth in Jase’s van. Almost deserted due to iffy weather but got up a bunch of E2s and 3s, highlights being leading the chimney pitch on Rat Race which felt fine despite a long absence from such terrain, a moon-booted wander round the hut circles at dusk and the final hanging belay on Resolution direct.
A couple of good days with the crew down the Churnet, mainly got spanked but great to get down there again.
Had a couple of days sport climbing in July and managed a quick redpoint of Cordless Madness 7c with some good fighting on the top section. OTOH Cry of Despair never gets any more feasible.
Lots of good days out with the Scrittlegrubers, Bamford, Baslow, Derwent, Widdop and Grinah highlights. A few sessions soloing at Stanage like the old days. Still got at least bits of it....
Even a couple of top-roping highlights for the haters - seconded London Wall clean and steady, flashed On the Rocks after Jase had trashed my rope failing.
Lots of other little wins - work was fine, mood was mostly ok, did an actual paid photography job and had a brill family holiday boating on the Broads the first week lockdown was lifted, plus a great year hobby-wise including building another telescope (more of a life-scope this time, 14”er), scoring some great ebay deals on microscopes etc, discovering loads of microbes. Excited to investigate lots more stuff this year inc archaeoastronomy and benchmarks, and getting to The Roaches more.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: ashtond6 on January 08, 2022, 01:20:37 pm

The Great Tribulation, E6 6c, Hipley Hill.

Fat fingers plus that top crack = Spankathon! Figured out a way crimping the edge of the crack but felt desperate!


Nice! Is the GT ok to dog up/work if you aren't sure you can get up it?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 08, 2022, 01:31:24 pm
Not much to write home about but wild camping and climbing on Scafell's East Buttress is worth remembering.

As is the surprising moment my mate shouted down 'I'm so pumped!' on the 4th (4c) pitch on Gogarth. Turns out I'd hopped onto the wrong belay ledge at the top of the 3rd pitch and he was now on Resolution Direct (E2 5b), quite a step up from the VS romp he was expecting. This meant my traverse right from the last belay did not take me up Gogarth but across an unclimbed wall covered in fur, past Achilles and eventually exiting via Diogenes. Entertaining, but not recommended.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 08, 2022, 06:25:08 pm
Hi Brutus.

Great to see someone blogging from the north Devon/Somerset area.

I did a lot of prospecting around there a *few years ago. Was living in Ilfracombe.

Great to hear about activity on that beautiful stretch of coastline.
* 38 f'ing years ago
. Cheers Dave, It's really tricky to piece together what has been done on the Exmoor Coast.. I have recently been  put in touch with Martin Crocker who has a love for this stretch of coast too.  We are going to share info and cobble something together. So really interested to see your pics. There is actually some OK bouldering very close to/in Ilfracombe. 
I love this thread because it inspires to visit different places and highlights problems/routes that have given others good experiences.

I'd better keep my mouth shut for a little while then! ;) I was wondering if he was still active. The rock on the Gritstone Wall around the back of Hangman is pretty good, with some great lines. Belays are tricky without stakes etc. I'll pm you, instead of blocking this thread  :2thumbsup:  Hi to Martin  ;D
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Hoseyb on January 09, 2022, 10:44:17 am


Lockdown Fatigue - 7c+ - Mallory Boulder

End of a perfect bluebird day in Wales. Had already done The Cairn and was totally knackered. Walking down in almost dark JB decided to try this. I had cooled down already and was in going home mode. JB said it was my style. I get tempted. Decide to have one go. Flash it with some funky beta. Out beta’d Caffs FA which was also rather cool.



Glad you enjoyed these blocs, it's special up there in the sun in winter. The block at the end of the Quack Crack bloc used to lean against the wall when caff did it. Means the extension is up for grabs! (Or full extension starting from Minnesota Loon)
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: jamesturnbull97 on January 10, 2022, 12:10:08 am
A little overview as some of the stuff I was able to get up last year, could have put a lot more in most of the catagories but tried to keep it relatively concise for a change.

Top Boulders
Didn't boulder abroad at all so all UK based this year

Grit
Omega 8A - Chevin: Had a great few sessions on this boulder doing Like a Hurricane and this. Was great to spend so time figuring this out with Dan and Will and bring to light a bloc that had slipped under the radar for many years.
Nothings Safe 7C - Caley: One the same theme of uncovering problems that never got done here's another. Sat in the middle of roadside but never seen anyone on it. Spent a day getting filthy cleaning a thick carpet off the top and another trying to figure out how on earth to get off the deck. A very satisfying process.
The Chieftain 7? - Earls Seat: Two of my favourite stlyes of climbing highball and technical slab. Simply one of the best.

Not Grit
L’Apparramarra Assis 7c - Surprised View: One of those in vogue problems from the spring. Had some very nice unique movement and lovely rock.
The Matador 7c+ - Attermire: Yorkshire doesn't have much limestone bouldering but this one very much makes up for that.  Spent ages trying to do it with Bradders' sequence before sacking it off for something completely different and doing the classic and falling off the finish jugs. Had to go back a couple of days later the morning before heading to Greece to finish it off.

Top Sport Routes
Caught the sport climbing bug again in the autumn after a few years away from clipping bolts.

UK
Only did 2 routes at home but one of them as very good.
Mescalito 7c+ - Malham: First trip back to Malham since 2018 so was nice to get up something. Going back to that style was a bit of shock to the system. Suffered from some serious hold blindness to start off but managed to get up this in a couple of goes with some good beta from Jim.

Abroad (Greece)
Did two trips to Leonidio and Kyparissi. Once for a week in September to have a chilled trip and do some mileage and then again in November for 3 weeks to get stuck into some stuff.


Advocatus Diavolo 8a - Babala: One of the best sport routes I've done anywhere. A technical lower wall leads to the main event of 2 perfect paralell drainpipes, I don't think I've ever done so many drop knees on a route let alone consecutively. The only thing that would have made it better is if I didn't fall off the top on the onsight.
Zeybreak 7c+ - HADA: A real maze of tufas and kneebars with a heartbreaker big move on some crimps at the end of a 40m mission. Pleased to have flashed it but definitley didn't make in look as easy as John's Swiss mate who cruised it just before.
Rainbow Warrior 8b+ - Nifada: It's hard to not but the hardest stuff on one of these rounds ups as you always get attached to them. Bouldery and a bit weird even managed to use a hand jam at one stage, enjoyed to process and good to see a return to some hard sport routes.
Pig in a Roof 8b - Twin Caves: An area classic but luckily managed to find it on a quiet day. Couldn't get a couple of the key knees to fit to just went for some front on burl. Again pleased to have got up something hard in a session.

Trad Routes
Did one day of Trad on the grit this year. During my phase of cleaning up old/forgetten/esoteric gems in the spring I put a big shift in to unearth the Beanstalk Buttress at Thruscross which is host to a few brilliant highballs and micro routes. All between E4 & 6 and probably not that big font numbers they're all pretty safe with some pads and a couple of cams. Go get to them before nature reclaims it!

Top Spankings
Satellite Boulder: Put a couple of sessions into Under a Full Moon and could barely do individual moves, just feels utterly nails at 7c+ but it can't be that bad as Footwork made it look piss  ;) After that the logical thing to do is try the harder bloc next to it! To my surpised I got on much better with Statis Interupted but I guess that's because it's much more basic crimping. I got really close on my first session but many split tips and sessions late in got too hot and I had to walk away.
Real Slim Shady - Earl Crag: A brilliant new line from Olly. Did the original to the break in a couple of goes but couldn't for the life of me figure out a way to do the penultimate move of the top section,could climb from the ground to it every time but never did that top move even in isolation. A rare senario where it's harder for the tall unless you're used to putting your foot in your armpit off bad crimps. Franco maybe?
My Little Fingers: Had splits in the second joints in a least one of my pinkies since October with training to go back to Greece. I think a conbination at Board climbing, FBing and Tufa climbing I've not climbed on any really small holds so I guess the way my fingers sit on holds around one pad must just nail my little fingers. Been alot more on top of sanding, razorblading and moisturising recently which has helped, even manage to climb without tape on them for one session this week but it didn't last long as one splt again yesterday.  :(


Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: T_B on January 10, 2022, 12:21:42 pm
2021 was a year of two halves. Productive spring and early summer, then only 10 outdoor sessions after the summer holidays with not many top outs…
 
Peak Bouldering:
Pinch Punch, Bradley and Birdsong RH
In March. I couldn’t get the Birdsong knee bar to work in a session, but these were good consolation prizes on a rare day last year when I felt strong.
Sick Arete. In late June. Gave it a good scrub. Highball 7a. Nice moves and setting. And it’s only a 20-minute/1.5Km walk in.
 
Non-Peak Bouldering
Rob’s Wall, Eskdale. Bit of a softie for lank-meisters. The rock was cold, thankfully.
Occam’s Razor, Honister. Perfect weather at Easter. Maybe my favourite problem of the year, as I really didn’t think I was going to be able to do it at first, then managed to piece it together and get it in the bag just as Rach/kids were sat in the car ready to head home.
Days Go By, 7b+, Kishorn Boulder. Up in Scotland at May Bankie. This is proper class. Basically as good as owt in Font – knacky compression on perfect stone.
 
Peak Trad – grit
Master’s Edge. Say no more. Probably could’ve done it in a session, but it snowed. Came back and it was warm but dispacted without issue. Like quite a few grit routes it was one that I’d saved to try GU, but that ship has sailed for E7s!
Beau Geste. I fell off it the previous November. Got a team together and managed to somehow not fluff getting the wire in (didn’t dare do it without). Once it was in and my shoulder hadn’t exploded, I could relax. It’s the best ‘hard grit’ route I’ve done.
Mensa, E6, on-sight. Really had to hang in there then fully commit, then it started hailing just as I topped out. Felt like a proper climber.
 
Peak Trad – Lime
Flight of Icarus. Old Nadin route slightly spoilt by the bolts on Celebration/Minos. Cleaned it up and headpointed. Nice, techy climbing. Went back with Dave Mus and told him he’d flash it, which he did just as… Nadin (who lives in the far North of Scotland) turns up at the base and says to me “What’s that route?”
Ninth Life. Headpoint. My lead that day. We don’t need to bolt everything on Peak limestone. This is a nice line with good climbing and really bold. It would be a completely forgettable 7b.
Piranha. Have looked at this wall so many times trying to spot the holds. No doubt on-sighted regularly back in the ‘80s but I gave it a clean and headpointed. Fun.
 
Sport climbing
Marlina, Dunkeld. I convinced the family that Dunkeld looked like a nice place to break the journey south travelling back from Torridon. Chances of Rach belaying me on Rat Race seemed very slim. After some spotting her on the bouldering and tentative badgering maybe she’d belay me on Marlina? Then, I just though f*ck it and asked some dude who had his clips in one of the lines if he wouldn’t mind giving me a belay? Anyway, I knew I’d either do it or fall off and that would be it. Chuffed to get the sequence right near the top for the o/s.
Salar, WCJ. Scraped an 8a. I’ve actually tried this a few times before o’er the years. It’s not an easy link for some reason, even with go-go-gadget arms.
Ground Zero, Lorry Park. Great climbing and a hand jam. No wonder this place is popular.
 
Running/races
Beinn Eighe loop. Perfect morning in Torridon with no-one around. Had planned to do Liathach but it was very windy.
Welsh 3000ers. August. 52k/4000m/12.5hrs. Perfect day.
Clowne Half. I enjoyed a road race and paced it well! What a surprise.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Eddies on January 10, 2022, 12:31:26 pm
Top Boulders
Last winter was a bad one weather wise; not many new ticks for me. But I did have one good day at Higgar Tor with a couple of mates, where i was the first up 'Witness the Gritness' a brilliant 7A+. Then repeated 'Piss' 7B first go, twice, using two different methods before doing 'Hemline' 7A+ second go and then 'Shit' 7B+ first go.
In April I climbed 'T-Crack' 7B after trying a couple of times over the past ten years i decided it needed putting to bed and on the second session of this year i sent it on my own in perfect conditions mid week without the cheaty heek-hook or chip grabbing beta!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Gus on January 11, 2022, 05:44:01 pm

The Great Tribulation, E6 6c, Hipley Hill.

Fat fingers plus that top crack = Spankathon! Figured out a way crimping the edge of the crack but felt desperate!


Nice! Is the GT ok to dog up/work if you aren't sure you can get up it?


Yep it's do able. A long clip stick would help a lot! Plus there's a bolt belay to strip it!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ged on January 12, 2022, 09:11:01 am
I was beginning to wonder what on earth you could possibly do for work to start with Gus but you answered the question in the end!

Always a great thread for inspiration.

Top 3 Boulder Problems.
Appliance Friction 6b - Stanton In The Woods - A new venue to me that I scoped out on a rainy day a few years ago. Managed a weekend trip to the Peak in October this was the first problem we climbed.  No pulling required beautiful faith in friction gritstone smearing, a great way to reacquaint with the grit.

The Prow 7b - Leigh Tor - Dartmoor - Not granite! (Quartz veined tourmalinised hornfels apparently.).  Brilliant feature that requires some grunt to get up.  Didn't go down easily, really enjoyed the process of working it and sent it in November on my 5th session with the first snow flakes of the winter falling, satisfying!  (Worth seeking this one out if you're in the area and it's within your pay grade.  V. short walk in and slightly more skin friendly than the granite).
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWv2o5Uo9Jh/?utm_medium=copy_link
How to Spoon Feed Blue Rays 7b - Tintagel - Cornwall - A nemesis problem that I had tried first over 10 years ago. Not the most aesthetic line in the world but memorable for the fact that it went down with relative ease after all this time (apparently you can better at some things with age! ).

Top 3 Boulder FAs

Where The Wild Things Are 6b - Exmoor Coast - A hanging prow/arete in a remote place that feels quite airy. Climbed it in the golden light of a coastal sunset just beautiful.
https://www.instagram.com/p/COlFfQ7D6NA/?utm_medium=copy_link

Heroes In a Half Shell 7b - Exmoor Coast - A very fickle roof that isn't in condition often and is a long way from the road! A spell of good weather in the summer allowed me to start working problems here. This is the hardest so far, super steep and required a full repertoire of trickery to get up.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSMXJiKj6Al/?utm_medium=copy_link
Bear Necessities 7b - Exmoor Coast - A hard pull to a slopey crimp and a flick to a sloper, the crux being holding the sloper and reeling in the swing without losing contact (easy moves beyond) . A boulderers boulder! 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPGHznHjOU-/?utm_medium=copy_link

I didn't tie in during 2021 and it is the first year for a long time I didn't DWS either.

I had a brilliant road trip to Scotland with the family in the summer.  Managed one problem at Carrick Castle but all attempts at bouldering sessions were unsuccessful due to midges! (The weather was stunning for the 3 weeks we were up there so no complaints!)

I spent a bit of time running along the exmoor coast this summer, what a place! I'd love to hear more about your bouldering exploits. There must be so much to do along there. If you can get to it!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: BrutusTheBear on January 12, 2022, 09:46:07 am
 
Quote
I spent a bit of time running along the exmoor coast this summer, what a place! I'd love to hear more about your bouldering exploits. There must be so much to do along there. If you can get to it!
:whistle:  Shhhhhhhhhhh Ged!  It truly is an incredible place and well off most people's radars due to easier to reach fleshpots further west/ south.  There really is nothing but countryside and huge inescapable cliffs between Lynmouth and Porlock (that is BIG stretch of coast!).  I have seen some stunning lines on secluded beaches but due to tide and/or the nature of the approaches/escapes they're not really viable for bouldering by conventional means.  A RIB would definitely be the way forwards.  Duly noted...It's long overdue a more comprehensive write up for bouldering and routes.
First on the list is the bouldering at Hurlstone Point nr Bossington, the main event being the overhanging and non-tidal wall that contains the route Raindancer.  A great little rain proof, sun trap training venue.  Here's a pic of Ruby P on the classic traverse https://www.instagram.com/p/ByYJhrkjCYz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Don't wish to hijack this thread though! Maybe I'll post some stuff up in the SW Bouldering thread. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Neil F on January 13, 2022, 09:42:19 pm
Okay, so I’ve never posted on this thread before, though I have read it for the last few years.  Whilst I’ve enjoyed the posts, I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving…  But some recent latecomers to this year’s party, and in particular Naomi’s comment on getting psyched reading other’s posts made me re-consider my natural reticence. And there’s a first time for everything, no?

Unfortunately the format doesn’t fully lend itself to my particular predilections, but I’ll have a go anyway…

Top three boulder problems, UK and Top three boulder problems, abroad

I last bouldered in 1983, so I’ll pass on that one

Top three trad routes/solos UK

The Prozac Link
Managed this in the second of two early year trips to Lewis.  Swung leads for what felt like the perfect route on the perfect day with the perfect partner.  Just ace!

Redshift, Gogarth
I’ve enjoyed so many Littlejohn routes over the years, but the middle pitch of this was something special.  Did it as a rope of 3 with my partner Clare and an old mate who has climbed on Red Wall more than most.  His characteristic non-stop commentary kept us entertained on our respective pitches, and we even had time to sneak in Television Route afterwards.  A memorable day…

Western Union, Iron Crag
This was something of a surprise, being rated a grade I’d not contemplated for some years.  And being a trad route, I wasn’t going to inspect it, whatever the prevailing ethics anticipated. Fortunately there was an alternative, whereby I could familiarise myself with the route beforehand, whilst retaining some semblance of self-imposed adventure.  And I could invent a new style at the same time…  I turned to the internet where I found one of Rob Matheson’s videos, where he climbs the route with an overdubbed commentary which pretty much tells you what you need to know. I watched it 4 or 5 times before climbing the route ground up, first go – perhaps the first ever Robpoint?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/western_union_e6_-_rob_matheson-2153

Top three sport routes UK

Hidden Sign, Castell y Gwynt
I’d got to the last hard move trying to on sight this back in 2007, and this year, with zero recollection of any of the moves, exactly the same thing happened. Fortunately my partner Mr Turnbull suffered the same fate, so we returned the following weekend to seal the deal.

Calimero, The Diamond
Again with Mr Turnbull, this unremarkable route proved to be just the tonic probably because of its mediocrity.  It sported cobwebs, disconcerting bolts, a few wet patches and no chalk whatsoever, and it was these unappealing characteristics which combined to give a really absorbing exercise in route finding, hold spotting and wet hold avoidance.  In fact it felt more challenging than the 7b to its right – It Came from Beneath the Sea – which we’d done just before.  It was also my first visit to The Diamond since 1993, and my first encounter with the masterstroke that is The Harrison High Wire.  Great stuff!

Cloak and Dagger, Moy Rock
Great to find some proper conglomerate in the UK, and an enjoyable afternoon being shown round by The Champ, who lives just an hour up the coast.  It also marked the end of a brilliant week in Scotland, which started on The Shelterstone (one of my favourite mountain crags in Britain).  Here we enjoyed perfect weather and found ourselves camping near to another contributor to this very thread… (Hi Andy!).  We then headed north to Brora, sampled the Caithness sea cliffs (definitely on the list for 2022) before heading home via Moy. 

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Ne Tirez pas sur L’ouvreur – Ailefroide
October and predictably Ailefroid is completely deserted.  Not surprising as the days are short, and before the sun hits the rock it is completely Baltic. But there is then a window when conditions are perfect, which for us lasted for half of this great 5-pitch route. The last 2 pitches were a chilly affair, but the memory of racing the sun up the brilliant 3rd pitch will stay with me for some time.

La Grandelle, Mont Dauphin
This is a fantastic wall of perfect conglomerate, not unlike a gently leaning, stamina climbing wall. We did the left hand 4 routes, and whilst not the hardest, La Grandelle was, for me, the best.

La 3rd Generation, Paroi des Lys
I loved this crag!  The splendid position gazing down on Le Ponteil from on high. I also loved the guidebook to this crag, just 2 pages – topo plus route list – describing, completely adequately, what could be a lifetime of adventures, at least for the visiting climber. Can’t wait to go back!

Top three new routes/problems put up

Often Back, Bosigran
Only one this year, but it was a goodie!  In 2017 I belayed Clare on the mouthful that is Zig Zag Optional Start A. At least I think that’s what she was on, because I’m not sure I ever looked, being instead captivated by the lovely arete to the right.  I traced the line of holds and wondered if they might link up?  But of course I never got round to abbing it, though it did stay in the back of my mind.  Fast forward to 2021 and with a bit more time on my hands, I did chuck a rope down it, and was immediately hooked!  I led it a couple of days later and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  The name is a slightly esoteric play on words, though it fits right in with the theme adopted on Lower Raven Wall by Brian Mullan who has done some great little pitches down there.  There are a couple of pics of the FA here, if anyone cares...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bosigran-199/often_back-636044
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fultonius on January 14, 2022, 12:10:44 am
Okay, so I’ve never posted on this thread before, though I have read it for the last few years.  Whilst I’ve enjoyed the posts, I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving…  But some recent latecomers to this year’s party, and in particular Naomi’s comment on getting psyched reading other’s posts made me re-consider my natural reticence. And there’s a first time for everything, no?

I think that's the best thing about this thread, and, actually, this forum in general, is that it really doesn't matter if you're sessioning a 6B problem or onsighting an 8c route, we want to hear YOUR story.

The Prozac Link is just such phenomenal ground in such a striking and I probably place, I defy anyone not to have a good story. We got it it rare mint conditions, so it was simultaneously cruisy and outstandingly adventurous. Real life affirming stuff.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 14, 2022, 02:04:04 am
Thanks for the link to the Western Union video Neil. That was ace  :2thumbsup:

Not so sure about the obscure South West esoterica mind  ;D

No, seriously, good to see you're still active, unearthing the occasional gem. It's a beautiful spot.
Been thinking of moving down to Cornwall too. Been too long since I could say "Often Back".
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2022, 08:01:44 am
That Bosi route looks ace, can't believe it's been overlooked.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 14, 2022, 09:16:22 am
I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving… 

Isn't that why we all throw in a token route of reasonable quality that's 3 grades below our max?  :lol:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Ross Barker on January 14, 2022, 09:25:57 am
I'd say it's the one time of the year we encourage willy-waving, so brag away!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 14, 2022, 10:03:56 am
That Bosi route looks ace, can't believe it's been overlooked.

Thought Neil had pipped Ondra for the 4th ascent of King Capella for a second! Or did he nip up BG? He lives nearby after all...?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fultonius on January 14, 2022, 10:18:30 am
I'd say it's the one time of the year we encourage willy-waving, so brag away!

What does a lady wave? Boob waving just sounds very odd!  I mean, she-wees all come in standard sizes, no?

Of course...we just need to turn to Sweden for an answer:  https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/aug/01/sweden-girls-genitals-feminist-invention-snippa-vagina
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on January 14, 2022, 11:13:31 am
Flaps! (said with all due respect and approval)
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: T_B on January 15, 2022, 06:06:30 pm
Western Union, Iron Crag
This was something of a surprise, being rated a grade I’d not contemplated for some years.  And being a trad route, I wasn’t going to inspect it, whatever the prevailing ethics anticipated. Fortunately there was an alternative, whereby I could familiarise myself with the route beforehand, whilst retaining some semblance of self-imposed adventure.  And I could invent a new style at the same time…  I turned to the internet where I found one of Rob Matheson’s videos, where he climbs the route with an overdubbed commentary which pretty much tells you what you need to know. I watched it 4 or 5 times before climbing the route ground up, first go – perhaps the first ever Robpoint?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/western_union_e6_-_rob_matheson-2153

Crikey Neil, no growing old gracefully for you eh. That’s proper full fat Lakes E6. Dunno how you’re climbing that level without bouldering. Chapeau!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wood FT on January 15, 2022, 07:22:23 pm
I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving… 

Isn't that why we all throw in a token route of reasonable quality that's 3 grades below our max?  :lol:

That is spot on.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Fiend on January 15, 2022, 08:02:01 pm
Some people still value the soul-enriching quality of the experience, you butts!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: BrutusTheBear on January 15, 2022, 08:32:13 pm
I'm with Fiend on this.  The lower grade problems I included were genuinely well good, you cynical bunch of...
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: jwi on January 15, 2022, 09:31:48 pm
I'm with Fiend too. I really enjoyed the route nine grades below my max I included, and still thinks about it and talks about to people willing to listen. (I only talk about myself or climbing, and preferably both at the same time.)
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wellsy on January 15, 2022, 09:43:31 pm
Arguably the problem I'm happiest about in 2021 (Appliance Friction 6B) was five grades below my max and a moment of beauty for me
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: BrutusTheBear on January 16, 2022, 08:45:01 am
Arguably the problem I'm happiest about in 2021 (Appliance Friction 6B) was five grades below my max and a moment of beauty for me
That was on my list too, pure class friction padding.  :great:
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: 36chambers on January 16, 2022, 09:47:45 am
Top 3 spankings
Allakazam 6c, Kilnsey. Think this was the first route I tried at Kilnsey, got scared, rested on a rusty peg, probably off route, thought I was going to die. Absolute shambles. 
Vicious Streak 7C+, Caley. Moves felt easy, but then I obliterated my knuckles firing off it. A month, and many plasters, later came back and did the exact same thing, but worse, again. fml. 

I finally got back on Vicious Streak yesterday and did it third go, blood free. Allakazam, I'm coming for you!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: teestub on January 16, 2022, 11:38:13 am
Allez!
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: Wellsy on January 16, 2022, 11:45:56 am
Arguably the problem I'm happiest about in 2021 (Appliance Friction 6B) was five grades below my max and a moment of beauty for me
That was on my list too, pure class friction padding.  :great:

It's a brilliant problem. I also tried it late last year, on I think my third ever trip outdoors? Had about 50 goes, totally shut down. A year later, did it in a few goes. Lovely experience.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: andy moles on January 16, 2022, 01:19:27 pm

We've got major plans for more trips up north, bouldering and sport, all recommendations greatly appreciated.

Goat Crag / Am Fasgadh. Best setting of a sport crag in Britain, and the routes are pretty amazing too, especially in the 7s to low 8s. A sun trap and another place where ticks are bad though, not the place to be when the bracken is up.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: andy moles on January 16, 2022, 02:30:06 pm
Interesting to look back through my logbook. It was an unusual year for me, when I deviated from my usual patterns and proportions in climbing. I wonder if those changing trends will continue? I only left the country for the last four days of the year, so leaving the foreign parts out:

Top 3 Boulders

Spiderpig 7A, Nant y Fedw
Slabs are rarely my favourite, but this was a really lovely, fairly intimidating problem in a pretty hobbity nook, done with late November sunlight gilding the moss and the oak tree.

Comfortably Numb 7B+, Gideon Quarry
The trickiest thing I managed this year, during the late winter lockdown period and before getting a niggly finger. The wacky venue is the star here, though several of the problems are also class, and being able to walk from home made it a bit special too.

The Severed Ear 7A+, Manor Crag
My kind of thing, apart from the ouchy and slightly worrying crimping to get established on the slab. Shame you have to jump off!

Top 3 Sport

Cig-Arete, 7b, Rainbow Walls
I usually don't do well on slate (apart from on semi-bolted and softly graded E4s and E5s), so to flash this as (I think) my first of the grade in the UK was a pleasant surprise.

Toss, 6c, Creag nan Luch
Improbably stolen between showers during a cold and frustrating week, this was a really excellent (and pretty tricky) wall, one of the best 6s I've done in the UK.

The Terrible Thing, 8a, Breakwater Quarry
First 8a, always going to be a memorable one, and the top section of this is also particularly wild and excellent.

Top 3 Trad

Flawless LH, E6/7, Achmelvich
One of the most aesthetic lines in the country, climbed on the easy side! As far as I know the arete had only been climbed twice in 17 years, and I'd wanted to do it for ages. Managed a quick headpoint in very sketchy fashion - getting away with it by some improbable coupling of friction and desperation actually left me feeling a little humbled and cagey about trad for much of the summer.

Rusty Buckets, E3, Creag Rodha Mor
Just over on the other side of Loch Roe, I finally visited 'supercrag', nearest thing the mainland has to Mingulayan gneiss. In a year of doing far less conventional trad than normal, this was one of the things that stood out - immaculate, tricky, and in a stunning isolated spot. My Own Personal Mingulay afterwards was meant to be the main event but thanks to a combination of Gary Latter's topo and my own carelessness, that was more memorable for taking a winger off the neighbouring E6 and having to finish with a terminal pump!

The Spire, E4, Shelterstone
Not actually the most pleasant experience on the route - it was too cold, basically - but any of the big lines on the main bastion of the Shelterstone is going to be memorable. Camping on the plateau and swimming in crystal clear red granite pools...ahh!

Top 3 DWS

Scissor, 7a, Nant Gwrtheyrn
Great sustained climbing at just the right height! Got the tactics right this time, with a high tide coinciding with evening sun to burn the grease off and change the vibe in the zawn from dark and intimidating to glittering haven.

The Cauldron & Cod Tympani, 7a+, Berry Head
The two most fun aspects of DWS in a nutshell - sideways pumping close to the water, and supersteep monkeying.

Top 3 New
Probably the aspect of climbing I found most rewarding this year, so one from each genre:

Elephant in the Cwm, 7A, Snowdon Lady
Pretty amazing to find something this good at this grade unclimbed, given you can see the boulder from Pete's Eats!

The Red Sea, 7b/+, Breakwater Quarry
The first time I've equipped a new sport route, so memorable for that reason, but also satisfying to increase the route count of a handy venue by 50% with a fairly unique line.

Execution Crack, E3, Am Basteir
A route that would be *** on a gritstone edge, only situated just below the summit of an iconic peak. Again, amazing it hadn't been done, though going up it on-sight I was the unknowing beneficiary of Michael Barnard having cleaned it.

Top Spanking

Crazy Horses, E3, Craig y Forwyn
I've often said E3 6a is a good grade to get spanked by. They're just E5s with overhead gear. My hypothesis was reaffirmed on this. Honorable mention for backing off an HVS pitch on Glyder Fach (admittedly without really trying, it just looked like hard work).
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: NaoB on January 16, 2022, 03:42:39 pm

We've got major plans for more trips up north, bouldering and sport, all recommendations greatly appreciated.

Goat Crag / Am Fasgadh. Best setting of a sport crag in Britain, and the routes are pretty amazing too, especially in the 7s to low 8s. A sun trap and another place where ticks are bad though, not the place to be when the bracken is up.

Wow, that looks ace, never heard of it before! It's VERY far north.... Which is probably why it has never appeared on my radar. The guidebook describes it as an "all year round venue". When would you say is the best time to visit for dry rock, not too hot or cold temps and minimal midges? Would April / May be about right?
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: GazM on January 16, 2022, 03:56:45 pm
Hi NaoB, yeah April/May is just about the best time to visit Goat/Am Fasgadh or anywhere in the Highlands for that matter. Before the midges and ticks appear, before the bracken gets in the way and also tends to have periods of settled good weather.
Loch Maree crag is also a must visit for folk in your grade range.
It's only another 1.5hrs or so further on from the camel and (in my opinion) far superior. Amazing trad too.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2022, 05:56:30 pm
We checked out Red Wall Quarry and Sportlethen but mostly climbed at the Fin. We really rated it! Amazing angles, quiet, great fishing / chilling / swimming spot.

We also want to visit Orchestra Cave but it was full on bird season when we were there in the summer. Will have to go back in spring or autumn.

Shout if you are back this way again and in need of tea / coffee / beta. Some undocumented bouldering around too.
Title: Re: Best of 2021
Post by: NaoB on January 16, 2022, 07:37:46 pm
Thanks guys, loving the recommendations and general air of hospitality.
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