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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: Bradders on December 28, 2021, 09:41:09 am

Title: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on December 28, 2021, 09:41:09 am
Seems to be a lot more psych for goal setting this year than last, so have at it!

Previous years for reference:
Aims for 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8416)
Aims for 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10711)
Aims for 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13192)
Aims for 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685)
Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228)
Aims for 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21363.0.html)
Aims for 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23430.0.html)
Aims for 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25121.0.html)
Aims for 2016 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26617.0.html)
Aims for 2017 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27706.0.html)
Aims for 2018 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28583.0.html)
Aims for 2019 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29777.msg575948.html#msg575948)
Aims for 2020 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30389.0.html)
Aims for 2021 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31046.0.html)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2021, 09:46:28 am
Seems to be a lot more psych for goal setting this year than last
Nope.

1. Heal my knee and recover full strength in that.
2. Heal my golfer's elbow and recover enough strength to train / try hard in that.
3. Heal / manage my tennis elbow & shoulder niggles.
4. Get back to training / recover my strength and fitness (the lowest they've been in a decade) without re-injuring.
5. With guidance get back into more sustainable habits / protocols for training / trying hard.
6. Get back into stretching / mobility once knee is healed.
7. Do a LOT more falling practise once I'm back on a rope as it's one thing I'm not hampered with.
8. Get into better / strict habits of warming up well whenever needed.
9. Something to do with sorting out my camping kit / tolerance.
.
.
.
10. Do some proper fucking climbing.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: scragrock on December 28, 2021, 09:54:21 am
Seems to be a lot more psych for goal setting this year than last
Nope.


9. Something to do with sorting out my camping kit / tolerance.


Wow Mat i didn't realise you had such hatred for your Own camping kit. At least you have come forward and admitted you have a problem.
Well done you :P
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: kingholmesy on December 28, 2021, 10:18:21 am
Gonna keep it short and sweet this year.

Climbing

Get myself in sufficient shape to climb 3 E5s onsight - it would be good to do some stuff in the hard but safe category.

Life

Negotiate a pay rise, or change jobs, while maintaining home life with the family.

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Aussiegav on December 28, 2021, 10:48:14 am
Focusing this year on variety & volume.

Outside Climbing
30 or more days outside climbing.

Onsight 6c
Onsight 6b+
10 easy Redpoints 6b to 6c+
Redpoint 7a in a day

Indoor climbing (Onsight/Flash)  :no: I know, who counts indoor routes?? Beggars can’t be choosers.
50x 6a
40x 6a+
30x 6b
20x 6b+
5x 6c  (Redpoint)

Moonboards
Moonboard 2016 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2017 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2019 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

50 Degree Board
4x 6b or harder


Work
Starting building my coaching alongside my nursing.
Get 5 clients for coaching.
Get 1 team for coaching.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 28, 2021, 11:45:19 am
Get uninjured
Stay uninjured
Gogarth.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Andy F on December 28, 2021, 12:47:12 pm
1) Recover 100% from COVID
2) 7b+ sport
3) 7A boulder

Setting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: abarro81 on December 28, 2021, 12:57:12 pm
General
- Avoid (m)any negative spirals about injury, other life stresses, etc.

UK
- Do 2 or more Kilnsey roof proj/link ideas (Preposterous direct exit, Preposterous direct entrance, Guns direct, Premonition/Epic, Showtime Epic... some of these need cleaning and a few extra bolts)
- Cornice proj (need to bolt it first)
- Aladdin, King of Thieves (if finger can take it)

Abroad (hard to be too specific as I'm not sure where we'll go yet)
- Climb lots of fun things in fun places
- Redpoint some hard stuff (>=8c+)
- Onsight some hard stuff (>=8b)
- Flash some hard stuff (>=8b+)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wood FT on December 28, 2021, 04:27:11 pm
Trying to focus on bouldering this year. This goal is helped by a change in circumstances.

Training:
Stick to a plan.
20mm 7 seconds @ 40kg
Campus 1-4-6 both arms
Touch my toes and generally improve flexibility.
Flash Wave L2 set
Moonboard 7B
School 50 7A
Regular runs (:sick:)

Boulder:
6 x 7B
3 x 7B+
1 x 7C

Sport:
Short routes for the short climber that’s short on time.
8a+ Redpoint  (Flow, Nemesis, Caviar)
Find an 8b project (Kali Yuga, Zeke, Bricktop)

Destinations:
Go to the Lakes and North Wales to boulder.
Enjoy family time in Font.
Climb on Gritstone….

Life:

Enjoy helping the boy grow up.
Step up to leadership role.
Move house without losing hair.
Build desirable garage board.
Keep weight within acceptable parameters.
Buy a bike and go to work on it.






Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wil on December 28, 2021, 05:19:04 pm
I took a long time to get going in 2021 and lost a lot of motivation over the lockdown last winter. I then worked more hours than intended, and many weekends, so my climbing was ticking over, and I didn't get many goals done. Motivation improved greatly from August onwards, but it was a little too late to be fit for anything serious. I had a good year all the same, with lots of interesting adventures in new places and with new people. I can carry over several goals from last year.

Trad:
Continue exploring new (to me) mountain crags in Scotland and be climbing at a decent level to get the most from them. Venues could include Shelterstone, Beinn Eighe, Sron na Ciche, Etive Slabs, The Ben. Too many classics to start naming any and if I grabbed 2 good weather weekends over the summer at any of these venues I'd be happy.
I'd also like to be back to E5 fitness, mentally and physically. I didn't do a lot of trad last year, but did a few E3s and while I felt strong enough for E5 I needed more mileage and to be able to recover better on jugs. Combining this with the above would be magic.

Sport:
The only real goal for next year is to tick Marlene at Dunkeld. I had a play this year and could climb all of the sections, it just needed a bit of work on stamina and recovery. I'm hoping that if walls stay open this time I'll be able to get this done quickly in the spring.
If I got that done I wouldn't mind another visit to the Camel, or even a few trips to Yorkshire to finish off long forgotten projects there.
Trip to Ceuse booked in from end of May for 2 weeks. I'd just like to be ticking some 7s without a big fuss really, moving well and enjoying good company would make for a great trip. :)

Training:
I rediscovered my running mojo this autumn, it would be good to keep that up and maybe do a mountain marathon or other event as motivation. Assuming no injuries (niggly knee, unrelated) I'd like to run at least 10km a week.
Fingerboarding - always good intentions and little action. Even once a fortnight would be progress.
I've made more effort at the wall recently. I have a very low failure threshold indoors, so I'd like to make sure I attempt harder circuits and accept that I might not do any of the problems, trying to view it as every move done is training.
Stamina sessions at Ratho in the lead up to Ceuse.

Life:
Buy a house in the Central Belt, hopefully this spring.
OH is desperate for a dog once we have a garden for it.
Hopefully find work fulfilling and have a better idea of what it looks like long term. I've been working in care the last 18 months and I enjoy the job, but prospects seem limited, and I've been messed about and undervalued by employers which has really stressed me out. Have recently started a new role, so hopefully the new place is better in that regard.
Sort out better freelance working habits - both in terms of pitching, talking money and actually sitting down to get it done.
The big one is to finally sort out the mess of a book I've been writing and get over my pure terror at sending it to people who might actually be able to give me useful and honest feedback!
I've got another series of Factor Two in the works, but I have no idea when it might be released at the moment. There are some good ideas on paper though and a few interviewees lined up.



Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Coops_13 on December 28, 2021, 05:32:51 pm
Entering a new year with another new injury, going to bring forward the bulk of last year's aims

Climbing

 - Heal current injuries and remain uninjured for the year
 - 5 V9s
 - V10
 - Go on at least three trips (weekend +)

Training

 - Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot
 - Get weight down to 80kg
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on December 29, 2021, 11:48:00 am
Climbing;

So 2021 turned out quite successfully for my first year bouldering outdoors and second year of climbing at all. After getting very shut down on the initial few trips out I started to get the hang of it and set myself the goal of doing A Single 7A by the end of the year, a pretty basic bitch goal which I didn't really understand but anyway. Made that and then some, on a couple of rock types.

For 2022... I'm not sure. My understanding of bouldering has gone from a sense I sort of know what I'm doing, to an understanding that I really don't and then building some actual skill off that. Moving away from an obsession with strength to realising how much work my technique needs etc. I'd like to challenge myself and I'm prepared to really dedicate my time and energy; I'm a relatively obsessive person and bouldering is probably the most important thing in my life to me right now?

With that in mind I'd like to do 7B+ on lime (where I feel I'm definitely better) and 7B on grit in 2022, with Jack the Nipper 7B+ and Electrical Storm 7B being the targets. I think its doable, but it'll be hard, might as well set my sights high though. I'd also like to build out pyramid a bit I terms of 7As and 7A+s. Just generally solidify the current skills and push them ahead.

I'd also like to improve my headgame a bit and do some highballs; this holds me back and bit and definitely needs some work. There's a few I have in mind to get myself working towards at least!

Fitness;

I do like strength training and I'll be doing a lot more of it. I'd like to be able to do a nice smooth clean muscle up on rings for reps; right now I can do a muscle up on rings (as of yesterday!), but not smoothly or very cleanly. So that. Progress towards a front lever. One armed hang on a 25mm BM edge. Progress towards a one-armer. Pistol Squats.

Life;

I've always found that my lifestyle drags behind my age by about 6-7 years which is appropriate as I'm now in my mid 20s by that metric so am thinking probably need to earn a bit more, buy a car, redecorate the apartment etc. If I can get a new job that pays more, a car and do up the place this year that'll be a good positive change. Also considering knocking the booze on the head almost entirely; dry January will be kicking that off, and I'm currently applying for new jobs etc. Feeling quite positive and hopeful on that front anyway.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Yossarian on December 30, 2021, 01:52:22 pm
Finally realised that everything climbing revolves around having a functioning / productive life, so my priorities are now (and will hopefully continue to be) heavily skewed in that direction....

Enjoy and work hard at new job and don't fizzle out / get (too) distracted, especially in the fist three months.
Sort out house then sell it, and move on like a grown-up.
Generally approach projects sequentially, rather than trying to do everything at once and never finishing anything.
Refine / perfect the kids-fiction-into-phone-whilst-walking writing technique. Also organise / perfect the Chromebook / folding chair / writing rucksack. Finish kids novel. Finish NF book that's long overdue. Figure out next thing when they're both done.
Walk more / most days / run if lbs to shift or there's less time - this has been a big help in 2021
Spend the first six months focusing on work, organisation and training.
Spend the second six months trying to get away / trips with the kids / going climbing lots.
Climb with lots of people I've not climbed with before, climb at lots of new places. Not worry about grades*.
Facilitate daughter's aim to do lots of routes, and figure out some options for her first trad leads.

*Privately carrying over last year's aims, but at a much reduced priority level...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2021, 02:04:21 pm
especially in the fist three months.

Sounds painful. Will they provide lube?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 30, 2021, 02:58:52 pm
Moving away from an obsession with strength to realising how much work my technique needs etc.

Fuck the naysayers! Keep a focus on strength while you're still in your 20's and the gains still come easily! You've got all your life to work on technique  ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on December 30, 2021, 05:21:22 pm
Moving away from an obsession with strength to realising how much work my technique needs etc.

Fuck the naysayers! Keep a focus on strength while you're still in your 20's and the gains still come easily! You've got all your life to work on technique  ;)

I'll definitely keep it in mind! :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Hoseyb on December 30, 2021, 07:15:20 pm
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: AJM on December 30, 2021, 09:03:36 pm
Outdoor climbing
- as last year, I’d like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute
- I’d like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the Beast
- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 again
- Progress on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder things to try” ticklists.
- Bouldering - I’d like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.

Indoor/training
- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, I’d like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.
- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case I’d like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.
- Try to build a stretching habit

Life
-  less doom scrolling. I’m usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!
- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasn’t really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 30, 2021, 10:16:36 pm
2 x 8A
10 x ≥7C
side splits
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 30, 2021, 10:18:30 pm
1) go climbing with other people
2) start filming climbing again
3) keep up surfskate progression - including - some downhill projects (Whirlowdale Road Integrale, finishing at the Robin Hood pub), drop in to a bowl, skate the Monsal tunnels
4) go snowboarding with the kids, on snow, on a mountain
5) go fishing more
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on December 31, 2021, 11:02:03 am
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.
LOL, good aims, once I can boulder count me in for #1 and hopefully witnessing #2.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Andy F on December 31, 2021, 02:45:43 pm
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.
LOL, good aims, once I can boulder count me in for #1 and hopefully witnessing #2.
Count me in for #1 and #2 as well 👍
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: spalmer on December 31, 2021, 04:30:35 pm
Find a good balance between fatherhood and climbing.
5 7Cs with at least one on grit.
Touch my toes (improve hamstring flexibility)
At least one weekend away to NW/Lakes.
Climb abroad with family.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: cheque on January 01, 2022, 08:08:43 am
Lower body stretching as a first priority. I’ve improved my posture and flexibility loads in the past few years with disciplined stretching, but largely in my upper body. I’m less disciplined about the frequency with which I do the lower body stretches and if the sorry state of my leg & hip flexibility isn’t the main physical limit on my climbing these days it’s definitely in the top two. Let’s say 240+ days.


fingerboard twice a week in Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec and at least once a week March & Oct.


Tick remaining pre-injury strength PBs. Surely I can do it this year!

Repeat or better all my other PBs. Most were now set in 2021 so this is about maintaining.

Climb in the E-grades again. I think I partly derailed this aim last year by setting volume-based lower-grade goals and thinking I’d start trying proper hard after I quickly knocked them off… honestly I’ll be happy with an E1 so that’s the minimum. Ideally let’s say… 6. I’ll be fucking psyched with more than that, particularly if any are above E1.

Try routes with roofs in. This is the most quantifiable way I can come up with to say “climb out of my comfort zone”. Actually I can think of another, I just don’t want to type it- take at least one, ideally 5 or more trad leader falls.

South-West trip. Despite filming down there quite a bit I’ve barely climbed in Devon or Cornwall at all and I don’t think I’ve done a sea cliff route for 6 years! No ambitions grade wise, just want to do some steady classics and a partner has expressed enthusiasm so as long as he doesn’t bail this should be doable.

Climb the Devil’s Tower. I’ve rebooked my flights to the US so this goal, like the trip itself is rolled over from summer 2020.

Complete my photo project and, linked to that, take a camera out every time I go climbing.

Good luck everyone!  :thumbsup:


Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 01, 2022, 08:47:55 am
Seems to be a lot more psych for goal setting this year than last
Nope.

Says the man who's first to respond to the thread  :wank: :clap2:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on January 01, 2022, 09:37:19 am
Whatever!  :icon_321:  :P

I'm far more psyched to post crap on the forum that slog my way through sorting out the mess of injuries and plummetting performance!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 01, 2022, 12:00:58 pm
Training
- >12 sessions on boards other than my own
- Keep up endurance training over winter; would be great to get back on a rope in spring and not feel like I'm starting from scratch again endurance wise. Actually quite enjoy the basic suffering of foot on campussing.
- Minimise missed training sessions
- Stretch / yoga 5x per week

Climbing
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff, Caley or Earl; been threatening to have a go at this for years, Caley feels most likely so hopefully conditions allow in February / March time.
- Do more things likely to take 2-4 sessions; particularly sport but boulders too. Last year did a lot of 2nd or 3rd go "in a day" redpoints which was fine as a way of racking up routes but I suspect that doing harder routes would actually be more beneficial both physically and tactically.
- Keep doing easier routes but must either onsight, flash or walk away; no 2nd go redpoints of anything <7b. Would love to get better at flashing things at least, given how tricky UK onsighting can be. Walking away will be tricky for the ego!
- Go abroad again! Font, Swiss and / or Ireland
- >100 sessions on rock
- >10 sessions bouldering on Eastern lime
- >10 sessions bouldering on central Peak lime

Grade Chasing
- 8A
- 8a+ (or at least try one)
- >10 7C and up

Life
- Go part time; I'm in the extremely fortunate position where this is both possible at work and, should be, financially viable. It's a biggy as it should help everything else on this list. It's already all agreed with a 3 month test period from February to end of April, so fingers crossed it works out. It's still pretty scary given that whenever I look at the news there are dire warnings about inflation / cost of living, etc.
- Get made permanent at current grade at work; been on various secondments at this level since December 2018! Current role looks good, management saying all the right things and the work is certainly there to be done, so fingers crossed. Part time shouldn't affect it, and may actually help.
- Be a good husband and father; last on the list but really it's first y'know.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 01, 2022, 12:12:20 pm
Sport Climbing
1) Spend some time on another 8c. Probably Cry Freedom if spring conditions allow me to get on the top bit. I am keen for Bats and Dogs too but working it is a nightmare currently with all the Rainman aspirants so might wait until they've got it ticked.
2) Do The Groove, and as a result complete the Triple Crown.
3) A Kilnsey 8b. Maybe Stolen or Showtime.
4) Go back to Ceuse.

Trad
1) Make sure I keep doing some as I love it and it gives my climbing better balance than just bolt clipping all the time.
2) Try an E6. Probably a Pembroke one that is safe. I fully expect to fall off but would like to at least get on one. Suggestions welcome!
3) Try to do some more trad in Scotland.

Bouldering (these are mostly rolled over from last year).
1) It was noticeable how little appetite I had for bouldering projects in 2021 which resulted in no gritstone 7Cs despite being close on a few. It would be good to finally do one again as I haven't climbed a grit 7C since 2019. Keen for Lager Lager Lager.
2) Try Tourniquet at Kentmere. This looks like a decent long term 8A (?  :worms:) candidate and its not that far from me now.
3) Go and try Cashmere Cat with a big team.

Training
1) Get fingerboard up in new house and get back on it. I have been really lazy the last few months and got distracted by board climbing after being quite diligent for a year.
2) bodyweight hang on bottom middle slot.
3) maintain shoulder strengthening and hamstring rehab. Keep stretching.

Life
1) Get dog.
2) Go on a holiday abroad with partner.
2) peck away at house DIY
2) Don't get kicked off the PhD in the first year.

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 01, 2022, 12:15:13 pm

- Keep doing easier routes but must either onsight, flash or walk away; no 2nd go redpoints of anything <7b. Would love to get better at flashing things at least, given how tricky UK onsighting can be. Walking away will be tricky for the ego!



This is probably the hardest thing on the list!  :lol:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 01, 2022, 01:29:11 pm
I know, especially as I've done or tried lots of the obvious possibilities at Kilnsey!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 01, 2022, 01:53:06 pm
I know, especially as I've done or tried lots of the obvious possibilities at Kilnsey!

The right wall at Trow Gill and Langcliffe Skyline are decent for onsighting in the low 7s. Some decent ones at Dib Scar as well.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Thedevonshirepiemuncher on January 01, 2022, 02:15:30 pm
Great post this
Got me thinking and motivated  me to think about 2022 after a long ISH lay off so here goes with some modest aims

Fix current injuries both in lower legs and one finger pulley strain whilst actually starting to train again

Climb on a rope again and tick 2 routes I haven't sent at ansteys by June, avenged and la crème are at the top of the list

Tick one boulder problem @ V8 or harder that is not a traverse (might be tricky with a knackered ankle and Achilles)

Lose 18 kg , which would get me back to my 2018 low point of 79kg

Be less grumpy about current injuries, they will get better with time and rehab (I hope)

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 01, 2022, 04:19:06 pm
Bradders & Spiders - any team psyche for Requiem at Stoupe Brow? It's a bit far but a quality 8A for the 2022 goals tick!

Bradders you can get a further two ticks for a 7C on my board. Make sure your shoulders are feeling good for more gastons  ;D
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 01, 2022, 06:35:49 pm
Bradders & Spiders - any team psyche for Requiem at Stoupe Brow? It's a bit far but a quality 8A for the 2022 goals tick!

Bradders you can get a further two ticks for a 7C on my board. Make sure your shoulders are feeling good for more gastons  ;D

Honestly...no :lol: lots of things a lot closer to home.

Only one for that, 7Cs have to be on rock!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: edshakey on January 01, 2022, 06:52:10 pm
Trad

- At least one E3, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that.
- Don't shy away from non-slabs: bit flimsy, but can't (shouldn't?) just climb slabs forever.

Bouldering

- At least one 7A+, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that.

Sport

- At least one 7a+, less emphasis on the pyramid since I don't see myself doing a lot this year, but we'll see how it goes.
- Keep on top of endurance more, as a general good practice/not feeling like a complete punter every time I tie in.

Training

- Fingerboard more than now (almost never). No particular goals, need to find my current level first.
- Actually campus something. Honestly even 1-2 on big rungs would be good, I'm reaching the limit of my zero-power approach to climbing, and it's definitely holding me back on things that should be routine.

Running

- Do a mountain marathon (probably Snowdonia trail marathon in July).
- Run at least one leg of the BGR, as a little taster (long long long term goal)

Other

- Visit at least 15 new crags
- Help my partner with her goals
- Go on a walking/scrambling/running trip to Scotland
- Come up with an idea of how these grade pyramids should look!
- Actually make a bit of effort to meet some new partners, just been a bit lazy on that front since moving.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: James Malloch on January 01, 2022, 07:32:40 pm
Jan/Feb/March

- keep up with physio and get running again
- climb twice a week to get happy on board circuits/problems after injury
- some pre-hab (TBC) to work on some grips I don’t use much

April onwards

- Quit job and head off in van
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
- 7c onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
- don’t get sucked into hard boulders
- have fun and take time to properly relax
- do some big multi day walks in Europe
- eat a lot of french pastries
- find job to start in 2023 for when we come back

- if I can’t get a visa to stay in Europe for 9 months, tick off some of my 2021 route aims
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: petekitso on January 01, 2022, 08:58:05 pm
All fairly modest but if they are written here, I won’t be able to secretly adjust them in June . . .

1. Make better use of local rock (southern sandstone so needs prolonged dry weather). In particular climb everything at Rocks Lane and  Balcombe Mills Rocks (only 12 ish problems) and all the routes at Bassets Farm (which will also involve sorting out my TR solo system).

2. 7 x 7A (or above) problems including at least one on each of grit, lime, culm and sandstone.

3. Carnage wall at Hartland (this is the big one for me,  nowhere near local so need to try and do it in 2 sessions)

4. Do some trad for the first time in 30 years (this may/should involve some formal instruction).
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: csl on January 02, 2022, 08:33:59 am
Climb one of each discipline from my "lifetime list" ticklist

Train consistently

Make outdoor sessions count
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: scragrock on January 02, 2022, 09:26:48 am
Fix back problems
Annular tear has had me scunnered for over 2 years{age/wear and tear}
Finish Strathnairn guide
taking longer than anticipated
Train specifically for the last 2 lines in Rooftown
Then top them out Ha
Finish off last line in Barry Valley
Might be the hardest thing i have ever tried
Try for oldest send of QED, Susurrus
seriously ambitious
Fix wood burning stove in climbing wall
will make for a cheaper more sustainable heating/drying solution


Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on January 02, 2022, 09:45:33 am
Haven't got high hopes for a big climbing year, due to...

1. Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now), and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse, and also not getting fat.
2. Climb at least one 8a. Have done at least one a year since 2008, and not about to let that slip now! I'd like it to be the big link up from the tench at potato, but will have to see how the year pans out time wise.
3. Keep strong enough at home on the board to be able to bust out the occasional 7B boulder problem.
4. Run as much as possible, maybe do something big late summer

That's it really. Main goal for the year is to keep expectations for my own stuff low, and enjoy the crap out of it when I do get out to do stuff. Whilst repeating the mantra "it's just a phase"
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on January 02, 2022, 09:47:22 am
Jan/Feb/March

- keep up with physio and get running again
- climb twice a week to get happy on board circuits/problems after injury
- some pre-hab (TBC) to work on some grips I don’t use much

April onwards

- Quit job and head off in van
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
- 7c onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
- don’t get sucked into hard boulders
- have fun and take time to properly relax
- do some big multi day walks in Europe
- eat a lot of french pastries
- find job to start in 2023 for when we come back

- if I can’t get a visa to stay in Europe for 9 months, tick off some of my 2021 route aims

Sounds like you've got a good year lined up. If EU stays don't work out and you've got the time, Norway is flipping awesome if you haven't been.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: abarro81 on January 02, 2022, 09:53:03 am
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Yossarian on January 02, 2022, 10:09:34 am


Train consistently
  • Do at least 90% of planned sessions
  • Climb 50% of my "#ldnclmbr" ticklist



Perhaps this needs publishing in the next issue?!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 02, 2022, 10:10:34 am
Yes do tell!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on January 02, 2022, 10:12:28 am
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Will Hunt on January 02, 2022, 10:54:53 am
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn

 :punk:

You got this, brah.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on January 02, 2022, 11:04:47 am
Instagram green ticks prepped and ready
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on January 02, 2022, 12:00:59 pm
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?

Oh right, my mistake. Same restrictions then is it?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on January 02, 2022, 12:25:50 pm
P.S. tha's me preempting the #ldnclmbr ticklist of course. Just in case there's any confusion  :alien:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 02, 2022, 12:47:10 pm
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn

You fucking bellend

 :lol:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: abarro81 on January 02, 2022, 04:36:33 pm
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?

Oh right, my mistake. Same restrictions then is it?

I believe so, at least re 90 in 180. Though it may have it's own long-stay or 'digital nomad' visa options
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: James Malloch on January 02, 2022, 04:44:50 pm
Jan/Feb/March

- keep up with physio and get running again
- climb twice a week to get happy on board circuits/problems after injury
- some pre-hab (TBC) to work on some grips I don’t use much

April onwards

- Quit job and head off in van
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
- 7c onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
- don’t get sucked into hard boulders
- have fun and take time to properly relax
- do some big multi day walks in Europe
- eat a lot of french pastries
- find job to start in 2023 for when we come back

- if I can’t get a visa to stay in Europe for 9 months, tick off some of my 2021 route aims

Sounds like you've got a good year lined up. If EU stays don't work out and you've got the time, Norway is flipping awesome if you haven't been.

Yeah I can’t wait! Been at this work thing for too long…

Norway won’t work but Croatia is the current plan if I can’t get the visa. Combined with some trips to the U.K. and maybe Turkey once it’s cool enough.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on January 02, 2022, 06:05:18 pm
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?

Oh right, my mistake. Same restrictions then is it?

I believe so, at least re 90 in 180. Though it may have it's own long-stay or 'digital nomad' visa options

Gotcha. I've given so little thought to foreign trips for the last 18 months that I'm very out of touch. So it's 90 out of 180 in all Schengen area?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: abarro81 on January 02, 2022, 06:40:11 pm
Yup. There are country specific visas that allow you to stay longer too (options and rules vary by country but at least some of these are additional to the 90, so a 6 month visa in Spain might get you 12 months as you could tag 90 tourist days on the front and again on the back)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: seankenny on January 02, 2022, 06:46:09 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: csl on January 02, 2022, 08:10:16 pm
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn

 :punk:

You got this, brah.

 :w00t:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: csl on January 02, 2022, 08:12:18 pm
Sorry Fiend, way off the mark. But now you mention it that would be much more on brand, perhaps I need to rename it  :-\
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: moose on January 02, 2022, 09:36:19 pm
In the age of Covid-19 and Brexit, having aims beyond avoiding respiratory failure and not having to sell a kidney to buy chorizo seems like hubris, but here goes.....

Get back into the Yorkshire lime sport scene
Covid was the excuse for stepping aside, but really, after 10 years of RPing, I felt I had done most of the pleasant / feasible routes in the local area and lost my enthusiasm.  The last year of bouldering was a very enjoyable break (and included a break I definitely didn't enjoy!) but I now feel the need to retrieve the rope and harness.  Targets will depend on how much fitness I can recover.  Even in my peak years, I went from 8a+/b to 7b over the winter... I dread to think what a 2 year hiatus will have done.  I have faint hopes of attending to unfinished business with Main Overhang at Malham but an entire year of RPing Wasted Youth and Sticky Wicket might await!

As much outdoors bouldering, preferably at new crags, as the above allows
An aim for Jan-March and Oct-Dec - go outdoors as much as possible.  Even if it's just to do a warm-up circuit somewhere new, although doing any of the 7B+/7Cs on my wish-list would be nice.

Keep up the mid-week training
Try to do at least some max hangs, weighted pull-ups, core exercises during the mid-week.

Enjoy the opportunity to have the odd non-climbing weekend day
If the rock is wet, rather than just another session on the same, tired plastic problems, maybe consider a decent hill walk (there'll always be time for an extra fingerboard session!)

Non Climbing

Work / life balance - or at least if the work is unavoidable, try not to beat myself up too much about matters beyond my control.

Food - try to cook a new recipe every week.

Drink - less [or, more realistically, at least better]

Visit my brother in HK / Singapore - very much dependent on his and his wife's wants / needs, but I'll be an uncle in Feb and haven't seen him for 2 years so a first trip to 'the East" seems warranted.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: jwi on January 02, 2022, 09:45:12 pm
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ed booth on January 03, 2022, 09:29:28 am
HNY all!

CLIMBING:
-Planning on trianing through Jan and Feb and into March with the aim of hitting Malham in the Spring. Would love to finish off Predator and really want to climb Bat Route. Plan to go on other routes there too to help build fitness and dial into the style again. Predator not fully my style so if it's taking ages and using up dry crag days I may just crack on with Bat Route.
-Get back to doing more Fr8a's and above. Think I only did a few in 2021. Aim for >10
-Whilst training this next few months will try to get out locally and want to finish off Sub-Moron (Tom Newman's Fb8a at Grinshill) and maybe the odd day out elsewhere to keep the motivation up
-Hopefully carry some form and fitness out of the Spring and just enjoy some good climbing around the country through the summer. I've got loads of trad and sport routes that have been on my wish list for the past 5 years now. With the kids I've had to manage my expectations better so I will be grateful for just doing anything really, I just want to feel like I've pushed myself.
-Finish some things on the Slate like Quarryman Groove (and should try the rest too) and Wall Within.
- I would like to try Unchi Maka on the Sialouze in the French Alps if I can create an oppurtunity to get out there at the right time with somebody psyched. Also the Brandler Hasse in the Dollys (see below)
-Couple of routes that I never got back on after getting close in a session are Supercool and Nemesis so be good to finish these off.
-If I get to Pembroke and am feeling fit and have any trad momentum would be keen to try From A Distance .

LIFE:
-Got a 1 and a 3 year old so I'm always trying to get the balance right of doing my bit at home to maximise time away from the family, and juggling it all with work and being knackered.
-Once early winter climbing training is out of the way and I'm getting outside more will start cycling again in preparation for hopefully doing the Dolomites Haute Route event in September. I'd like to tie this into to doing something like the Brandler Hasse which I have always wanted to do. Don't want it to take over my climbing but I'm crap at back to back days of sport climbing anyway so mixing it up with the odd bike day here and there shouldn't be too detrimental, and it feels good to get fit.

Game on!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: James Malloch on January 03, 2022, 09:41:56 am
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!

Yeah I think I’d like to give it an onsight go. Would love another crack at Blockagé Violent too, hopefully I’ll be going better than I was 7 years ago!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 03, 2022, 10:22:29 am
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!

Yeah I think I’d like to give it an onsight go. Would love another crack at Blockagé Violent too, hopefully I’ll be going better than I was 7 years ago!

Cent patates is a lot, lot easier than Blocage. I thought it was 7b but happy to take the tick given everything else at Ceuse is nails. The fact that CP gets the same grade as changement de look is a joke! I love it there, want to go back again this year.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: jwi on January 03, 2022, 11:08:04 am

Cent patates is a lot, lot easier than Blocage. I thought it was 7b but happy to take the tick given everything else at Ceuse is nails. The fact that CP gets the same grade as changement de look is a joke! I love it there, want to go back again this year.

Well, yes. (Cent patates is also given 7b in both of the local guidebooks). Fun fact: Changement de look was given 7c in the first printed topo for Céüse. I am not sure why they changed the grade. In its current status it is a lot closer to 7c+ than to 7b+. However there is a 7b+ that is even harder to its right. Got to love the mid eighties and their competitive grading on mid sevens.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Stabbsy on January 03, 2022, 11:26:16 am
A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.

Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.
If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.
2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).
3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).
4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on January 03, 2022, 11:32:42 am
Congratulations! 6 months paternity, sweet deal! I've got 4 weeks, and then taking the odd extra week tagged onto other holidays, so hopefully will have plenty of family time.

Roll on the new one being old enough for the running buggy!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 03, 2022, 09:24:00 pm
Congrats Stabbsy, and 6 months! Quite jealous. Thought I'd done well with 6 weeks + 2 weeks holiday.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on January 03, 2022, 09:27:13 pm
I would like to add "Do Bumlog Millionaire 7A and Colt 7A+" to my aims for this year as they are currently the two problems I've put the most time into without doing.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Hoseyb on January 03, 2022, 10:49:27 pm
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.

If we're adding to the aims, I should declare that I'd better finish a certain Cwmfynnon patio that I've pottered with for the last 5 year's or so. Although it's unlikely it will get much action. It's more of a performance piece or installation
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: JohnM on January 04, 2022, 10:14:28 am
Time to set the 2022 goals. Some are dependent on injuries and other factors out of my control but even a couple of things off the list will make for a good year!

Climbing

1. Fix my right elbow.
2. Finish Der Schwarzer Schwann (8c).
3. Finish some 8a-8bs I have tried in Tirol - Particularly Rose der Zeit (8a+).
4. Climb on some sport sandstone (NRG, RRG or Taipan if it opens again).
5. Go bouldering outdoors again.

Running/Cycling/Fishing/Skiing

1. Fix my ankle and knee tendonitis (or at least keep it at bay).
2. Do a ski x-country marathon.
3. Finish one or more of - Bob Graham Round, Eiger Ultra, an Everesting, UTMB (dependent on entry lottery), Dragon's Back Race (dependent on not getting in UTMB and getting a place via the waiting list), run 3000km.
4. A nice cycle tour (2-3 days).
5. Catch a 20lb+ pike.

Misc./life

1. Sleep more/better.
2. Drink less.
3. Get less stressed about work + work less (maybe try and take Q4 off work).
4. Learn more French.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: steveri on January 04, 2022, 10:38:17 am
Fun
Try harder on a rope
7A
Funny little wild moorland locations
Read more
Use phone less
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: 36chambers on January 04, 2022, 12:37:38 pm
same same, but different

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. See Ryuichi for inspiration. (briefly tried last week and didn’t last a second on either hand!)
- 5 eights
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes
- 5 off the highball list
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups)
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays)
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects
- 5 training room PBs (hopefully set some benchmarks in the next few weeks)
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts (benchmarks all set, but haven't really spent much time pushing them, so 5% might be too easy, we'll see).

wildcard lifetime goal
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022)

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: mr chaz on January 04, 2022, 01:04:03 pm
Shockingly, lockdowns, injury and becoming a parent has meant my last logged outdoor climb/boulder was in May... FFS. Shouldn't be too hard to better that in 2022 I hope, so my aims are simply:

1. Jumping on the bandwagon here as well - be a good Dad/partner.
2. Build the woodie (shed is up, materials have arrived, holds on order... just need a precious day or so to put it up)
3. Get back to the outdoors in general with family - walking, camping, van, etc
4. Do more climbing than 2021.
5. Look after bicep.
6. Get in some more Trad days with my brother, like the good old times!

Less of a priority now and seemingly impossible:

7. Finish (haha!) house renovation and endless list of DIY jobs
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 04, 2022, 01:36:51 pm
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).

Glad this isn't just me (although also sorry to hear you're similarly afflicted).

Hard to say what it really is but I definitely feel shitter than before, despite objectively being as good / maybe just not ticked anything quite as difficult as before but it's all there, just a lack of opportunity. Dunno.

Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown", was thoroughly irritating when that was absolutely miles away from my own experience!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: tommytwotone on January 04, 2022, 03:00:42 pm
same same, but different

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. See Ryuichi for inspiration. (briefly tried last week and didn’t last a second on either hand!)
- 5 eights
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes
- 5 off the highball list
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups)
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays)
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects
- 5 training room PBs (hopefully set some benchmarks in the next few weeks)
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts (benchmarks all set, but haven't really spent much time pushing them, so 5% might be too easy, we'll see).

wildcard lifetime goal
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022)

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).

You've got a few more offwidths at Brimham to see off as well fella.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: tommytwotone on January 04, 2022, 03:33:45 pm
Climbing-wise - same as last few years:

Do a new (to me) 7a outdoors somewhere.

Easy to say, but getting the stars of weather / time / family life / ability to all align suitably is the challenge here.

Outside of climbing:

Carry on working from home without going too stir-crazy
Learn to maintain, and actually maintain huge / complex garden on the new house
Be / carry on being an alright Dad and partner
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Rocksteady on January 04, 2022, 04:00:44 pm
Loving these Dad-based goals, personally I have found it nigh-on impossible to keep climbing since birth of my non-sleeping first child nearly 4 years ago. Have just about kept my hand in indoors. Now have an 8 month old non-sleeping 2nd child. But am feeling fairly motivated this year after reading Ned's Beastmaking book.

CLIMBING/FITNESS GOALS:
1. Process - at least 1x week fingerboard session
2. Process - at least 6x outside climbing weekends over the year. This probably horrifies regular climbers. Being London based with aforementioned children and non-climbing wife and with the pandemic I only managed 2 outdoor climbing days in 2021 and one in 2020.
3. Process - at least 1x week outdoor cardio (running/skipping/whatever) during work from home lunchbreak
4. Boulder - 7A+ outside. Lightning Strike or Hot Ride at The Cuttings most likely candidates.
5. Routes - I'm actually going to set an indoor goal because this seems more realistic and achievable. I have loads of outdoor routes I want to do but I can't guarantee I'll be on them when they're in condition and I don't know if I'll get enough outdoor mileage to push my grade. But I'd like to onsight or flash 5 indoor 7as this year.

Plus rehab my dodgy shoulder and neck.

NON-CLIMBING GOALS:
1. Enjoy 2 months of Shared Parental Leave being main carer for sons - use this to be more helpful to wife throughout year
2. Teach my older son to swim
3. Finish writing my second novel

Hope everyone has a happy and productive 2022.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: cheque on January 04, 2022, 04:02:09 pm
Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown"

Do you think he meant stronger on mass or stronger en masse? There’s quite a difference!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on January 04, 2022, 04:19:07 pm
Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown"

Do you think he meant stronger on mass or stronger en masse? There’s quite a difference!

Pissed me off either way :lol:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 04, 2022, 06:15:13 pm
What a difference a year makes!

Feeling much better but still been kind of wary about setting any goals. However it’s not like I don’t have any may as well set my stall out.

I definitely feel like I am on an upward trajectory at the moment so my main aim is to continue on the same path of self acceptance, self love and appreciation for what I have. In the past year I also aimed to have more fun and I wish to continue this into 2022 (and beyond).

The above are my main goals and any goals I state below are secondary to these. If trying to achieve one is contradictory to maintaining good mental health then I hope I will drop it.

Climbing

Never sure whether highly specific or vague is the way to go. I’ll try and hit both.

In no particular order...

More E6 attempts from the ground.
Specifically; LOTF, Suicide blonde, Big in America, Pulsebeat, Sixpence, Ghost Train, Grezelda.

Be good to regain my previous overall trad form.

More ~8a sport.

The Groove or Urgent Action would be ace. Zoolook and soft option being others I’m keen for.

Visit some new crags; Yew cogar, trow Gill.

Have a tickle at an 8b? Not too sure which one id try ...

Boulder more 7B+s sneak a 7C out? Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

Life

Finish house ASAP so fun can resume. (But do a good job)

Switch to part time work. Whether that is at this company or back on the ropes. I don’t care which as long as I’m not working 5 days a week, 47 weeks of the year.

Don’t fuck up the amazing thing I have just found myself hopefully on the verge of getting into. (Don’t want to jinx it). If it doesn’t work out don’t lose myself in process.

So in summary; continue mental health improvements

Try and do more cool climbing at a challenging level for me. With my fiends

Finish house graft

Work less

Don’t fuck up the thing that is too young to have a name 😂

Hope 2022 is a good one for everyone



Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wood FT on January 04, 2022, 06:24:51 pm
Congratulations! 6 months paternity, sweet deal! I've got 4 weeks, and then taking the odd extra week tagged onto other holidays, so hopefully will have plenty of family time.

Roll on the new one being old enough for the running buggy!

Feel like I really dropped the ball on this one and just had the 2-weeks...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wood FT on January 04, 2022, 06:30:30 pm
Suicide blonde

I am not belaying you on that. Torbay Choss.

Quote
Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

But I would like to try this with you.

re: 8b... Surely Predator?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fultonius on January 04, 2022, 06:44:28 pm
Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.

After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.

I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.

I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical), and give me some space to:


> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there.
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron.
> Start working Reqiuem
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on January 04, 2022, 06:46:42 pm
Malc's Arete isn't that local to Glasgow....

I liked Monkey Spanking but the climbing isn't as great as the flawless line. That's my sole contribution to any 7B debate ever.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fultonius on January 04, 2022, 06:59:29 pm
Malc's Arete isn't that local to Glasgow....

No, but happy to head up for a few weekends for a play.

Quote
I liked Monkey Spanking but the climbing isn't as great as the flawless line. That's my sole contribution to any 7B debate ever.

I've had a few goes on that. Will remember to drag my mat in when going in for Moving Shadow.

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2022, 10:01:12 pm
Well 2022 looks set to be off to a better start, with new job and less time commitments and WFH for at least some of the time so;

Winter

Still hoping to get to the Alps, not looking like it will be this month as planned, might need to put back.

More ski touring. Had some great days last year, but limited to "local". Be nice to get to West Coast, and never skied 'Coe.

Failing that, get on some winter routes if conditions for skiing don't come good. Nothing crazy, a few IIIs or IVs maybe, not swung an axe in about 8 years (apart from easy ski approaches). Might even upgrade kit, Vegas and Pirahnas look archaic.

Rock

Local bouldering projects.

Get to more Scottish spots; Drumore / Torridon / Strathnairn etc.

Couple of mountain trad routes.

Get psyched for a local sport project.

Climb the trad line I spotted locally on an unrecorded crag a few years back, that no-one has found yet.

Do some local DWS.

Sea

any of;

More surfing

Some more SUPing

Just getting in the sea more - it's only a 15 min walk from the door.

Running

1000 km total in the year

otherwise; still undecided, might do another marathon or ultra, or maybe focus on a half marathon PB.

Not neglect strength and conditioning and don't get injured again.

Personal

Get face out of screens and read more.

Sort out finances.

get house extension done.


Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 04, 2022, 10:32:10 pm

Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

But I would like to try this with you.

re: 8b... Surely Predator?

Let’s go try corridors together!

Yeah predator is probably the one. I just don’t know if I have the vitamins. Guess I’ll just see. Tbh the groove captures my imagination more.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: yetix on January 04, 2022, 11:39:32 pm
Also keen on corridors at some point if an extra pad or 2 would be desired
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 05, 2022, 08:47:18 am
Great stuff  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: TobyD on January 05, 2022, 09:25:04 am
Suicide blonde

I am not belaying you on that. Torbay Choss.

Its perfectly fine,  by Devonian standards. IIRC, a tight eliminate, but decent enough climbing. 


My aims for 2022; start climbing again properly having spent the last year just going to a wall occasionally to tick over. I haven't really got my head into particular routes yet, but anything about E3 / 7c that I haven't done before,  I'd be content with. 
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: JohnM on January 05, 2022, 10:43:54 am
  • Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)

That thing looks amazing. I had thought about that route as a possible objective in the past. Are there any security issues round that region these days?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fultonius on January 05, 2022, 11:09:10 am
  • Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)

That thing looks amazing. I had thought about that route as a possible objective in the past. Are there any security issues round that region these days?

Seems pretty safe these days, plenty teams out in the last 10-15 years without any incidents.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: shark on January 05, 2022, 12:22:34 pm
Walked away empty handed for the second year in a row in terms of projects. Basically ticked nothing hard since September 2019 when I did Bens Roof. I put all efforts late summer and autumn into Cross N Angry and it didn’t work out and was dispiriting.

I still aspire to tick one or more of my projects. Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

Overall in 2022 I want to enjoy my climbing more and tick something that’s hard for me.

Things I’ll do differently this year.
- No limit projecting when it’s too warm/humid as it’s demotivating
- Drop my grade in the summer
- Travel more
- Resume trad climbing (still aspire to onsight an E6 at some point so need to start building back into it)

If year pans out well it will include:

Jan: 3 week trip to Spain with Duncan leaving on Friday 🤞
Feb: Focus on Bens without kneebars
Mar/April: Malham season. Oak/Mescalito
April/May: Host a yank I hit it off with  n Chulilla and weather permitting take him on a South West sea cliff tour
Summer: Van trip to Briancon area with Sonia
Autumn: Tor or Malham projecting
November: Red River Gorge (be fit for it this time)

List of outstanding projects: Cross N Angry 8a+, Statement of Youth 8a, Mescalito 7c+, Austrian Oak 8b, Blind Date 7b+, Moffatrocity 7B+, Bens Roof without Kneebars 7C+/8b.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 05, 2022, 12:34:26 pm
Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

This is extremely inspiring to me!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: shark on January 05, 2022, 01:00:17 pm
Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

This is extremely inspiring to me!

 ;D The really big win here this year was the improvement in recruitment strength ie latching a hold and being able to apply a higher % of force from doing velocity/speed pulls (https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/). Always been a weakness for me ie struggling to jump and latch holds especially double handed
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 05, 2022, 01:02:46 pm
Walked away empty handed for the second year in a row in terms of projects. Basically ticked nothing hard since September 2019 when I did Bens Roof. I put all efforts late summer and autumn into Cross N Angry and it didn’t work out and was dispiriting.

I still aspire to tick one or more of my projects. Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

Overall in 2022 I want to enjoy my climbing more and tick something that’s hard for me.

Things I’ll do differently this year.
- No limit projecting when it’s too warm/humid as it’s demotivating
- Drop my grade in the summer
- Travel more
- Resume trad climbing (still aspire to onsight an E6 at some point so need to start building back into it)

If year pans out well it will include:

Jan: 3 week trip to Spain with Duncan leaving on Friday 🤞
Feb: Focus on Bens without kneebars
Mar/April: Malham season. Oak/Mescalito
April/May: Host a yank I hit it off with  n Chulilla and weather permitting take him on a South West sea cliff tour
Summer: Van trip to Briancon area with Sonia
Autumn: Tor or Malham projecting
November: Red River Gorge (be fit for it this time)

List of outstanding projects: Cross N Angry 8a+, Statement of Youth 8a, Mescalito 7c+, Austrian Oak 8b, Blind Date 7b+, Moffatrocity 7B+, Bens Roof without Kneebars 7C+/8b.

If it is in any way helpful to hear I thought you climbed very well when we climbed together at Malham that day. I was surprised you didn't get any of your projects done (specifically mescalito which it sounds like you snatched defeat from the jaws of victory and Cross'n'angry which I thought once you'd linked the crux you might of had a good stab at)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: shark on January 05, 2022, 01:56:49 pm
Thanks Duncan,

After dropping clipping the belay on Mescalito the following visits were a bit too warm IIRC and I didn’t go back to Malham or LPT for that matter in the Autumn as I was concentrating on Cross N Angry. After linking the crux section of C&A on top rope I went to Berlin for a long weekend then caught a nasty cold on the way back and never really got back where I needed to be after that. Nevertheless my efforts on Mescalito, Statement and C&A helped me regain my route endurance which with hindsight has been lacking over the last few years (an assessment by John Kettle revealed I had a boulderers profile). Hope I can cash some of that endurance in this year.
Should add that I still enjoyed the vast majority of my sessions last year but got stale and frustrated on C&A towards the end.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Will Hunt on January 05, 2022, 02:05:24 pm
I'm sure the belay of Mescalito has been moved/is going to be moved this off-season. Retro-ticks for those who've dropped it while trying to clip it in the original position?  :worms: :worms: :worms:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: duncan on January 05, 2022, 06:24:31 pm
Keep them short and ambitious this year.

Foil - one hand on the (wrong part of the) top of the crag. The only time I tried hard on a trad. route all year and it was very satisfying. Don’t know why I didn’t do more of this, well I do, and I’ll be trying a bit more in 2022.

1. Try hard more often. In the last three or four years I’ve mostly avoided pushing myself, especially on trad., defaulting to mileage days which are fun and sociable but I won't be remembering in 10 years time. This has been necessary at times due to not feeling mentally robust and influenced by not trusting my body after dislocating my shoulder in 2017. There is a balance to find between pushing myself and pressuring myself but I could do a bit more of the former. This is an aim rather than an objective.
2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland/) ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland (https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotland/)).
3. 7b+ (Road Rage
4. E5 (or at least more than E2...).

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wood FT on January 05, 2022, 06:40:55 pm
Suicide blonde

I am not belaying you on that. Torbay Choss.

Its perfectly fine,  by Devonian standards. IIRC, a tight eliminate, but decent enough climbing. 


I belayed Ferdia on it and didn't enjoy the belay.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on January 05, 2022, 06:57:33 pm
2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland/) ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland (https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotland/)).

If you are in the East and need a string holder for anything of a reasonable grade give me a shout.

Also note my tiny contribution to the latter (pg 70).
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Yossarian on January 05, 2022, 07:17:16 pm
Keep them short and ambitious this year.

2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland/) ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland (https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotland/)).

Not seen those before - they look brilliant!

Quote
3. 7b+ (Road Rage

Could definitely join you at half term or in easter hols, if not before...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: duncan on January 05, 2022, 09:26:34 pm
2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland/) ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland (https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotland/)).

If you are in the East and need a string holder for anything of a reasonable grade give me a shout.

Also note my tiny contribution to the latter (pg 70).
Will do, and previously noted!

Keep them short and ambitious this year.

2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland/) ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland (https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotland/)).

Not seen those before - they look brilliant!

I can't believe you made it past the unforgivable font on the cover of Mountain Crags! Sea Cliffs is more my taste but they are both great.

Quote
3. 7b+ (Road Rage
Could definitely join you at half term or in easter hols, if not before...
Oh good. I had a short reconnaissance in 2021 with Sean but looking to have a more focused attempt this year after my winter training camp.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: rginns on January 06, 2022, 12:37:14 am
Well it must be about 5 years since actually posting on an aims thread but now's the moment...

Would be nice to get back to fighting fitness again, regular cardio, try and run twice a week.
Lose the bag... it'd be good to lean up a bit, got just over a stone to shift

Climbing:
Get on the board 3 times a week.
Keep filling in the CragPad tm to keep track of progress (or lack of..)
Any grotty Lancs 7B+
More than one grotty Lancs 7B
More than a dozen grotty Lancs 7A/+
(None of the above can be an R-man lowball...)
Resurrect the project list and tick half of them

Trad: keep getting out.. 100 routes.
An E2 would be nice

With a bit of focus some of these should be possible! :shrug:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Footwork on January 06, 2022, 08:49:58 pm
Aims for 2022!

1. Spend more time developing
2. Five routes off the sport list
3. More trad and highballing than 2021(a lot more)
4. Consistently burn off Will Hunt
5. Get something big booked in the diary
6. More trips with mates

Good luck everyone


Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2022, 08:04:56 am
Aims for 2022!

1. Spend more time developing


 Black and White photography? :) Or are you in puberty? :) :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: TobyD on January 07, 2022, 11:07:36 am
Oh good. I had a short reconnaissance in 2021 with Sean but looking to have a more focused attempt this year after my winter training camp.

I assume that you are talking about the Road Rage on the E coast of Portland? It just occurred to me that I haven't done this, although having just consulted my logbook, I humiliatingly fell off trying to clip the belay onsight in 2011, then failed to redpoint it, and have never been back. Its on my list for the year now, assuming it doesn't fall down before the summer.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Yossarian on January 07, 2022, 12:03:34 pm
Oh good. I had a short reconnaissance in 2021 with Sean but looking to have a more focused attempt this year after my winter training camp.

I assume that you are talking about the Road Rage on the E coast of Portland? It just occurred to me that I haven't done this, although having just consulted my logbook, I humiliatingly fell off trying to clip the belay onsight in 2011, then failed to redpoint it, and have never been back. Its on my list for the year now, assuming it doesn't fall down before the summer.

Sounding like a Team UKB ascent day is required...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: TobyD on January 07, 2022, 01:16:53 pm
Oh good. I had a short reconnaissance in 2021 with Sean but looking to have a more focused attempt this year after my winter training camp.

I assume that you are talking about the Road Rage on the E coast of Portland? It just occurred to me that I haven't done this, although having just consulted my logbook, I humiliatingly fell off trying to clip the belay onsight in 2011, then failed to redpoint it, and have never been back. Its on my list for the year now, assuming it doesn't fall down before the summer.

Sounding like a Team UKB ascent day is required...

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: reeve on January 08, 2022, 11:14:59 am
Good luck everyone!


Climbing
More E-points than last year (so >184)
Try some harder trad routes (i.e. take some entertaining wangers): let’s say five E6s in fair style
Get on some big multi-pitch adventures (stuff like Main Cliff, South Stack, anything where if you get stuck you have to abseil into the sea [but ideally don’t get stuck])
Three 8a’s and a couple of 8a+’s (the latter would be the first in five years)
Maintain some semblance of strength not being humiliatingly weak throughout summer by going on the board or hanging at least weekly. At a stretch, dare I say it, end the year stronger than now.
Get stuck into some dirty offwidth somewhere; do some DWS and use the opportunity to heckle “friends” into the sea; bivvy / wildcamp and climb somewhere green-tick wankers don’t go; another new route; do a route at Malham (last time I did was 2013!); 10 trips in the van; Darkthrone; go abroad; get to a bunch of new-to-me crags as this was great fun in 2021.


Non-climbing
Sound-proof the entire house from our friendly (but shouty) neighbours. New kitchen.
Finish bloody PGDip before the fucker gets extended – yet again – to the following year
Keep on with general lifestyle changes and keep the passion for work, which is what makes it enjoyable
Treat Marie even more than last year
See more of friends – finding this harder than ever since March 2020
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: jwi on January 10, 2022, 01:26:07 pm
1. Keep improving my sport climbing capabilities at a sufficiently glacial pace to not get injured. This would be achieved if I redpoint a hard 8b+ or onsighted several 7c+s in say a month.

2a For the redpoint part: get ever so slightly stronger at bouldering.
OR
2b. For the onsight part: increase my endurance on at least one benchmark.

3. Improve flexibility

4. Get better at pullups and rows. Measure before and after each cycle.

5. Get stronger fingers. As above
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Baldy on January 14, 2022, 11:31:11 pm
Out of hiding for a mini comeback.
Starting to climb properly again (ie. for myself) this year for the first time in many.
Little stronger, but heavier this time around.

LIFE

Bouldering


Routes
[/list]
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on January 17, 2022, 12:58:36 pm
Saw this pop up and realised that I'd not done one yet...

Last year's were probably a bit over ambitious looking back at them especially considering that my #1 goal was not to get injured and it turms out I was already nursing a pretty big one (albiet managing it...)
Quote
1. Not get injured Failed as already was!
2. F7c again Didn't even get on one!
3. More than one good trad day (i.e. good/classic routes E1 - E4)  :2thumbsup:
4. Make it to Kalymnos in October again  :2thumbsup:
4a. Get on Ageallis or another awesome looking F7c
5. F7a+/7b onsight again Nope F7a onsight and F7a+/F7b TR Flash was as good as it got!
6. 7A bloc if I can ever be arsed to go bouldering again  :2thumbsup:
7. Eatswood Traverse (wildcard!) Didn't even try - Shoulder wouldn't like the start!
8. Find and get on F8a project for 2022 Didn't try!

So this year I'll be a bit more conservative:

Climbing
1. More F7b's
2. F7b+
3. Get on inspiring F7c, F7c+ or F8a as project
4. Stay out of hospital (i.e. condition shoulder enough to not warrant surgery)
5. Spain in March
6. Kalymnos in October
7. At least one classic trad day E2-E5
8. At least one decent day bouldering high 6's and/or low 7's

Life
1. Build garden cabin/office
2. Get more guaranteed work - being self employed is great but sometimes feels like I'm chasing my tail so guaranteed hrs would be ace
3. Take kids away on a memorable trip (maybe take them on a multipitch)

And it was written...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 17, 2022, 08:06:15 pm
1. Keep improving my sport climbing capabilities at a sufficiently glacial pace to not get injured.

Yes, my philosophy now after years of chronic injury. You familiar with Tim Gabett, Jonas? Basically, stick to a weekly workload which does not deviate outside of 0.8-1.3 times the average workload of the previous 4 weeks.
https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/50/5/273
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: jwi on January 17, 2022, 10:03:44 pm
1. Keep improving my sport climbing capabilities at a sufficiently glacial pace to not get injured.

Yes, my philosophy now after years of chronic injury. You familiar with Tim Gabett, Jonas? Basically, stick to a weekly workload which does not deviate outside of 0.8-1.3 times the average workload of the previous 4 weeks.
https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/50/5/273

Not quantified like that, no. But I am well aware of the general principle that most injuries can be explained by a sudden increase in load or volume. Alas, I am also aware that raising the performance without increasing the load or the volume is unlikely.

I am not sure how useful it is to know this multiplicative factor of 0.8-1.3 when using block periodisation? What does 1.3 times the average workload mean when you move from say a strength based phase to a endurance based face or (more likely) vice versa? (I am aware that the answer might be in the paper you linked that I have not had the time to read yet).
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 17, 2022, 11:08:27 pm
Well, I am no expert. It’s not a complicated paper, that’s why I can understand it 😁 That is a specific question which I can’t answer, but I don’t think it matters a lot. I think it mostly matters how it feels to you when training. He says he found the most reliable guide to quantifying workload was subjective -Reported Perceived Effort. I guess that accounts for the level of strain on the athlete best, which is the key factor when trying to predict injury rates. A tired athlete completing a moderately hard workout will report a higher RPE than a fresh one.

The RPE x time training gives a unit he called, appropriately enough, Arbitrary Units. Plotted against injury rates you can see the graphs move around the 0.8 and 1.3 x 4 weekly average of A units indicating increase in injury rates. Detraining affects vulnerability to injury as well as overreaching.

Others have tried to be more sophisticated eg logarithmic scale to account for increasing fitness levels impacting how hard the same level of work is on the body but it looks his core point stands up well viz rate of change should not exceed the current tolerance the body has adapted to by big increments up or down. Statistically, injury rates go up in a predictable fashion. Individually, genetics will have more bearing.





Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: monkoffunk on January 29, 2022, 11:34:37 pm
I was planning on doing this at the end of January after a bit of time to consider some plans post exam year.

Unfortunately I dislocated my patella yesterday walking across my bedroom of all things.

That’s slightly altered the start of my year but anyway few goals for this year:

1. Do a ton of physio
2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now.
3. Climb again.
4. Especially on rock…
5. Sort out home training facilities.
6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: andy moles on January 30, 2022, 12:15:12 pm
Climbing:
1. Get more efficient on ice (if the opportunity actually arises in Scotland this year)
2. Do more sport than usual, aim to improve % chance of flashing 7bs (taking inspiration from Ondra's high risk approach) and quick ascents of high 7s. Maybe another low 8 if one happens to inspire, but that's a lesser priority.
3. Get back to a better place with trad, i.e. in a good headspace for on-sighting E5s. Hoping the sport approach will help with this, though also aware that trad mileage is often important. So make the trad days count.
4. A bit of Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free stuff, because I really missed this during the pandemic.
5. A few good days of DWS.
6. If not enjoying it, don't force it, just do something else. This part I haven't struggled with lately, but aim to keep a good balance.

Non-climbing
1. Feel better/be healthier than last year, whatever that takes.
2. Decide where I want to live in a semi-permanent way, then take steps to do so.
3. Get better at musical stuff.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fultonius on February 08, 2022, 05:14:38 pm
Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.

After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.

I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.

I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical) Green Tick, and give me some space to:

  • Train
  • Start / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get done
  • Develop my freelance network
  • Get better at Sea-Kayaking with OH,
  • Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!) Now exchanged for a Bugaboos trip due to lack of potentially suitably new route options and dwindling team psyche
  • Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there.
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron.
> Start working Reqiuem
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.
MRI booked.It's got a bit lax, and might need a revision.


Psyched, only the second "real" job I've ever left.  :punk:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2022, 05:51:48 pm
Nice, what you going to do? Back to shuttle bus driver in Cham?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fultonius on February 08, 2022, 08:56:49 pm
Ha! Nah, still be here. Just going to make the most of what appears to be a brief period of freedom!

Then looking to find some freelance work.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on February 09, 2022, 08:34:52 am
Nice. Looks like Coe is finally getting plastered.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 23, 2022, 10:31:43 pm
1) go climbing with other people
2) start filming climbing again
3) keep up surfskate progression - including - some downhill projects (Whirlowdale Road Integrale, finishing at the Robin Hood pub), drop in to a bowl, skate the Monsal tunnels
4) go snowboarding with the kids, on snow, on a mountain
5) go fishing more

4) done in style. Kids had a great time. Booked again for next year. Plus I had a second week without the family. Best winter of snowboarding since 1997 - I got lucky with weather, snow and good decisions; plus, I met up with good people.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on March 23, 2022, 10:48:52 pm
Nice one lagers  :punk:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: dunnyg on March 23, 2022, 11:07:47 pm
Late to the party this year, but here goes, in no particular order

1. Try an E5
2. Repeat Sean's route
3. Climb something >300m long
4. Onsight 6c
5. Climb 7a
6. Fall off a sport route when going full beans
7. Climb on Gimmer and/or Scafell
7.5 Climb a multipitch E1
8. Don't get injured
9. Tick off something(s) from the yorkshire 3* tick list.
10. Climb on a sea cliff
11. Do some exploratory development. Having a trek in and failing counts!
12. Go on some decent adventures (climbing or otherwise). Uncertainty in outcome required, suffering optional.
13. Make use of local rock and board for training

Stay positive about the guts. Allez.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on March 24, 2022, 08:49:02 am
good list, although 1. could be a bit subjective..
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: dunnyg on March 24, 2022, 05:14:37 pm
Just getting on one in any form would be progress.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: James Malloch on June 03, 2022, 10:55:48 am
- 7b onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
- eat a lot of french pastries


I’m fucking smashing the pastries aim.  :strongbench:

Got my first 7a+ onsight of the trip yesterday too so hopefully 7b will follow soon. Only a few days left to try Cent Patatas too - though this rain might wash the chalk off…
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: 36chambers on July 01, 2022, 12:31:21 pm
definitely made this list too long. Anyway half way update.

same same, but different

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list [3]
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. See Ryuichi for inspiration. (briefly tried last week and didn’t last a second on either hand!) [spent a fair amount of time focusing on front three, however...]
- 5 eights [1, most of my fingers are pretty f**ked at the moment, so will be surprised to do any more this year]
- 5 new UK crags [3]
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s [0]
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes [4]
- 5 off the highball list [0 cleaned up two, but never got round to trying them]
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups) [4, including one that's actually half decent! a few more potentially great ones pending]
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays) [2]
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects [0, the first of a slew of finger woes kicked off in February, so very little hard board cranking]
- 5 training room PBs (hopefully set some benchmarks in the next few weeks) [everything non finger specific is going well]
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts (benchmarks all set, but haven't really spent much time pushing them, so 5% might be too easy, we'll see). [new bench press PB, haven't had any pb sessions on the other two yet]


wildcard lifetime goal [tick]
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022) [Le Vent dans la Plaine went down first day of my trip in April (so a big fat yyfy!). It was particularly fortunate as it was 20+ degrees for the rest of the trip. Thankfully that's enough success to see me through the rest of the year, possibly even next year too.]

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again). [see finger complaints, psyche is high, but strength is low]
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on July 01, 2022, 12:39:35 pm
1. Heal my knee and recover full strength in that. - yes, seems back to normal
2. Heal my golfer's elbow and recover enough strength to train / try hard in that. - no, reaggravated it and now much worse
3. Heal / manage my tennis elbow & shoulder niggles. - no, reaggravated tennis, slightly easing but still bad
4. Get back to training / recover my strength and fitness (the lowest they've been in a decade) without re-injuring. - no, worse than ever.
5. With guidance get back into more sustainable habits / protocols for training / trying hard. - no, not a chance, see above.
6. Get back into stretching / mobility once knee is healed. - yes, actually started doing a bit, the only thing I can train
7. Do a LOT more falling practise once I'm back on a rope as it's one thing I'm not hampered with. - no, never really got back into the right situations.
8. Get into better / strict habits of warming up well whenever needed. - not really relevant as I can only do warm-ups
9. Something to do with sorting out my camping kit / tolerance. - no, not applicable
10. Do some proper fucking climbing. - NO, NO, with added NO. Absolutely nowhere near in any aspect.

An absolute shit-show.

Replacing all goals with:

Quote
1. Stay alive and try to find something worth living for
2. Try to stay active enough not to deteriorate further.
3. Keep pushing to stay in contact with friends, climbing partners, and maintain social life.
4. Try to be careful enough to heal elbows a bit more.
5. See 1.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Hoseyb on July 01, 2022, 01:26:53 pm
Don't worry, we'll keep pushing back.
In a good way.
Not that way
 :wave:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: mr chaz on July 01, 2022, 01:28:23 pm
Shockingly, lockdowns, injury and becoming a parent has meant my last logged outdoor climb/boulder was in May... FFS. Shouldn't be too hard to better that in 2022 I hope, so my aims are simply:

1. Jumping on the bandwagon here as well - be a good Dad/partner. tick
2. Build the woodie (shed is up, materials have arrived, holds on order... just need a precious day or so to put it up) tick
3. Get back to the outdoors in general with family - walking, camping, van, etc not bad - managed a few outdoorsy days and we're off camping at the weekend. Yet to combine with any climbing and yet to overnight in the van with the little one, hopefully tick both this summer
4. Do more climbing than 2021. tick, only just though. Still half the year left!
5. Look after bicep. tick - one year on from injury and nearly back to full strength
6. Get in some more Trad days with my brother, like the good old times! nope

Less of a priority now and seemingly impossible:

7. Finish (haha!) house renovation and endless list of DIY jobs very slow progress, but progress nonetheless

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on July 01, 2022, 01:29:32 pm
Halfway!  ;D :-\ :'( :slap:

Training
- >12 sessions on boards other than my own - done 6 so well on track. Weirdly hard to fit this in though, don't know how I used to manage without a board at home!
- Keep up endurance training over winter; would be great to get back on a rope in spring and not feel like I'm starting from scratch again endurance wise. Actually quite enjoy the basic suffering of foot on campussing. - Yep did lots (for me). I just don't have time to sport climb atm though.
- Minimise missed training sessions - done really well with this
- Stretch / yoga 5x per week - getting much more consistent with this now, but earlier in the year was struggling.

Climbing
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff, Caley or Earl; been threatening to have a go at this for years, Caley feels most likely so hopefully conditions allow in February / March time. - distracted by other things throughout winter / early spring and then got injured. Haven't even been to any of them this year bar one abortive visit to a damp Caley!
- Do more things likely to take 2-4 sessions; particularly sport but boulders too. Last year did a lot of 2nd or 3rd go "in a day" redpoints which was fine as a way of racking up routes but I suspect that doing harder routes would actually be more beneficial both physically and tactically. - I find this so hard in bouldering, as in getting the balance right between trying things that are really way too hard for me but my ego says otherwise, and things that will actually take 2-4 sessions. So far have tended to undershoot it and done loads of things in a session. Done 5 problems that have taken 2 or 3 sessions, and put 2-4 sessions into 5 others that I've not yet done, plus a couple of others that I've had a session on and not been back to. Maybe it's easier to judge for routes but still haven't tied on this year.
- Keep doing easier routes but must either onsight, flash or walk away; no 2nd go redpoints of anything <7b. Would love to get better at flashing things at least, given how tricky UK onsighting can be. Walking away will be tricky for the ego! - nope
- Go abroad again! Font, Swiss and / or Ireland - yes, great big tick. Unfortunately picked up a bad wrist injury a week before Font (I couldn't hang from a fingerboard...), but still had a great time doing loads of climbing, ending up climbing 5 days in a row, then had a fantastic time in SW Ireland doing loads of quality problems and even a clutch of FAs.
- >100 sessions on rock - on 43 as of today, which feels like good going albeit not quite on track for 100. Was always going to be a tough ask this year but hopefully should still get close!
- >10 sessions bouldering on Eastern lime
- >10 sessions bouldering on central Peak lime - had 14 sessions on lime generally so far so well on track for these two. Enjoying it a lot.

Grade Chasing
- 8A - dropped the last hard move of one 5x over 2 sessions, then picked up a succession of injuries which are only now clearing up. Primary goal of training now for the next couple of months.  :boxing:
- 8a+ (or at least try one) - nope, as above
- >10 7C and up - done 1-3 depending on who you ask.

Life
- Go part time; I'm in the extremely fortunate position where this is both possible at work and, should be, financially viable. It's a biggy as it should help everything else on this list. It's already all agreed with a 3 month test period from February to end of April, so fingers crossed it works out. It's still pretty scary given that whenever I look at the news there are dire warnings about inflation / cost of living, etc. - Yep, reduced hours and very lucky to be able to work really flexibly.
- Get made permanent at current grade at work; been on various secondments at this level since December 2018! Current role looks good, management saying all the right things and the work is certainly there to be done, so fingers crossed. Part time shouldn't affect it, and may actually help.  - Yes, big fat tick
- Be a good husband and father; last on the list but really it's first y'know. - I can't really answer this one. I hope so though!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on July 01, 2022, 01:32:18 pm
2 x 8A [1]
10 x ≥7C [3]
side splits [0]

First on paper 8A and 4 sessions deep on an 8A+ that has accidentally become my project (it couldn't suit me more). Need to get my finger out and start knocking off some 7C's! Glacial progress on side splits despite training them nearly every day.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Hoseyb on July 01, 2022, 01:37:33 pm
Mine was mainly built around having 2 working legs, however the overarching theme was have fun and be social.

Whilst Fiend has failed to actually fall of because of it, I have made him giggle.

I can still possibly burn off AndyF, might need to be niche.

Never finished the patio at the superprow, Caff climbed it anyway.

I've halved my project list, by removing the highballs.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: yetix on July 01, 2022, 01:45:21 pm
Can't find a post by me but have goals on my phone of:
3x8A (0 but feeling close on more than 3, just terrible at going back to anything I don't do in a session)
10x7C+ or above (11, so 1 goal done)
30x7C and above (20)
5 nemisis from last year (2 so far)

Need to get better at going back to things
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Coops_13 on July 01, 2022, 02:36:39 pm
Entering a new year with another new injury, going to bring forward the bulk of last year's aims

Climbing

 - Heal current injuries and remain uninjured for the year Getting there, able to pull hard on V9s and 10s is good but still a bit limited on moves that aggravate it
 - 5 V9s None so far but v close on one - had planned to finish it off this weekend then half of Chaos fell down NNFN
 - V10 This may actually go this season if I keep training well, cutting and remain uninjured. Made good progress on one so far
 - Go on at least three trips (weekend +) Only done one (Bishop) and should get maybe one more this year

Training

 - Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot Tweaky fingers, on path for this by end of the year but who knows
 - Get weight down to 80kg Yes, progress towards this is good. Stairmaster helping a lot

Bloody hell that's an ambitious list (looking back)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wil on July 01, 2022, 02:43:01 pm

Trad:
Continue exploring new (to me) mountain crags in Scotland and be climbing at a decent level to get the most from them.
I've not got out much in the hills, but my head's in a decent place and I'm fit and motivated, so fingers crossed for some good weather.

Sport:
The only real goal for next year is to tick Marlene at Dunkeld. I had a play this year and could climb all of the sections, it just needed a bit of work on stamina and recovery. I'm hoping that if walls stay open this time I'll be able to get this done quickly in the spring.
haven't got it done, but only had a couple of sessions and made good progress.
Trip to Ceuse booked in from end of May for 2 weeks. I'd just like to be ticking some 7s without a big fuss really, moving well and enjoying good company would make for a great trip. :)
I spent the first few days wobbling above bolts, took a real punter fall where my leg went behind the rope and between 2 bolts, resulting in a massive bruise and some ropeburn, but it all came good in the end. I felt like I'd remembered how to try hard by the end of the trip and got up quite a few low 7s.

Training:
I'd like to run at least 10km a week.
I say this every year and then don't do it, but I did cycle to work consistently for 6 months and have been running more. I know I can step out of the door and do 10km without it being a big deal, which is a nice level of fitness.
Fingerboarding - always good intentions and little action. Even once a fortnight would be progress.
Got fingerboard mounted and have actually used it.
I've made more effort at the wall recently. I have a very low failure threshold indoors, so I'd like to make sure I attempt harder circuits and accept that I might not do any of the problems, trying to view it as every move done is training.
Stamina sessions at Ratho in the lead up to Ceuse.
Not as many stamina sessions as I could have, but I definitely tried a lot harder last winter.

Life:
Buy a house in the Central Belt.
Bought a place in Bridge of Allan, have been mowing the lawn every since.
OH is desperate for a dog once we have a garden for it.
Got to dog proof the garden, but this is on for autumn.
Hopefully find work fulfilling and have a better idea of what it looks like long term. I've been working in care the last 18 months and I enjoy the job, but prospects seem limited, and I've been messed about and undervalued by employers which has really stressed me out. Have recently started a new role, so hopefully the new place is better in that regard.
New place was a total shitshow, unable to even sort rotas properly, pay holiday pay, send payslips, pay the correct wage, monitor Covid testing and more. I also spent 6 months working nights, which I hadn't signed up for. Have just finished grievance procedure (after the second round when my office fobbed me off) and been paid my full rate for the missing wages. Haven't been offered any shifts since I raised a grievance...
Sort out better freelance working habits - both in terms of pitching, talking money and actually sitting down to get it done.
Have been busy working nights, this should change colour over the summer.
The big one is to finally sort out the mess of a book I've been writing and get over my pure terror at sending it to people who might actually be able to give me useful and honest feedback!
In progress, I've had quite a bit of time away from it and it's taking some time to get a clear idea of where it's heading. Have spoken to agents who are interested, which is a good start.
I've got another series of Factor Two in the works, but I have no idea when it might be released at the moment. There are some good ideas on paper though and a few interviewees lined up.
Slowly happening, subject to time consumed by above.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: edshakey on July 01, 2022, 04:21:13 pm
Pretty much put climbing on the backburner while training for Snowdonia Trail Marathon (next weekend). So it's a fairly poor set of halfway results, but hope to switch it up second half of the year and focus more on the climbing.

Trad

- At least one E3, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that. Don't think I've even done an E1, not much trad at all
- Don't shy away from non-slabs: bit flimsy, but can't (shouldn't?) just climb slabs forever. Meh, bit mixed, but not done enough to say. Vast majority has been easy solos.

Bouldering

- At least one 7A+, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that. Nope, done maybe up to 6B+? But hard to say with some inaccurate grades. Not really tried too hard though, just go out and do 6As quickly and don't bother trying harder stuff generally. Perpetually thin skin/lack of effort.

Sport

- At least one 7a+, less emphasis on the pyramid since I don't see myself doing a lot this year, but we'll see how it goes. Done very little aside from a trip to Sicily in March. Actually probably could have done a 7a if the sun didn't go down while working it. With actual investment, probably could manage this still
- Keep on top of endurance more, as a general good practice/not feeling like a complete punter every time I tie in. Very little after March, will be even harder now Big Depot is closed.

Training

- Fingerboard more than now (almost never). No particular goals, need to find my current level first. oof
- Actually campus something. Honestly even 1-2 on big rungs would be good, I'm reaching the limit of my zero-power approach to climbing, and it's definitely holding me back on things that should be routine. double oof
Running

- Do a mountain marathon (probably Snowdonia trail marathon in July). A strong orange, week on Sunday is the race. Excited!
- Run at least one leg of the BGR, as a little taster (long long long term goal)Not done, but could defo happen. Depends on running psyche post marathon

Other

- Visit at least 15 new crags Think I'm on 14, discounting Sicily. Easy target really
- Help my partner with her goals Think I've done ok!
- Go on a walking/scrambling/running trip to ScotlandTimings didn't work out for May, maybe autumn?
- Come up with an idea of how these grade pyramids should look!Not given thought to things like this while not focusing on climbing
- Actually make a bit of effort to meet some new partners, just been a bit lazy on that front since moving.  not really

Plenty of time left to achieve aims this year - all this time that's felt unproductive through the first half, we get to live again and make the changes to work on those goals. Optimism for the remainder of 2022  :beer2:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Andy F on July 01, 2022, 04:42:53 pm

Whilst Fiend has failed to actually fall of because of it, I have made him giggle.

I can still possibly burn off AndyF, might need to be niche

Excellent work with Fiend. As for niche, just find something with a crack in it. Any crack. Those things are kryptonite.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Andy F on July 01, 2022, 04:49:31 pm
1) Recover 100% from COVID
2) 7b+ sport
3) 7A boulder

Setting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful

1) Tick. But I've pulled a groin kicking a football back to the kids, so that needs to heal 100% before I head out again.
2) I climbed an 8a. And a 7c. And a 7b+. So I guess that's a tick.
3) Barely bouldered outside, so that's something to aim for in the next 6 months (if the groin injury goes)

Well done everyone. 6 months to destroy those projects/aims. Get to it.

@Fiend. Stay alive, the world is better with you in it.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: scragrock on July 01, 2022, 05:38:40 pm
Fix back problems
Annular tear has had me scunnered for over 2 years{age/wear and tear}
Herniated disc, still a major problem so many of my aims for this year will be affected by this.
Finish Strathnairn guide
taking longer than anticipated
This has paused while publication problems are sorted.
Train specifically for the last 2 lines in Rooftown
Then top them out Ha
Trying my best under time constraints, daughter is 4 weeks old and started my new business round about the same time so its a little full on at the moment
Finish off last line in Barry Valley
Might be the hardest thing i have ever tried
No, but Robbie Phillips helped figure out some crucial beta so might go a little easier.
Try for oldest send of QED, Susurrus
seriously ambitious
HA
Fix wood burning stove in climbing wall
will make for a cheaper more sustainable heating/drying solution
Refurbed an old stove and we are actually putting it in the living room so we can cut down on heating bills  :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: sdm on July 01, 2022, 06:05:24 pm
1) Recover 100% from COVID
2) 7b+ sport
3) 7A boulder

Setting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful

1) Tick. But I've pulled a groin kicking a football back to the kids, so that needs to heal 100% before I head out again.
2) I climbed an 8a. And a 7c. And a 7b+. So I guess that's a tick.
3) Barely bouldered outside, so that's something to aim for in the next 6 months (if the groin injury goes)

Well done everyone. 6 months to destroy those projects/aims. Get to it.

@Fiend. Stay alive, the world is better with you in it.
If the groin injury isn't too severe, you might be able to climb around the injury. They are an injury that tends to be slow to heal but you can climb around a mild/moderate strain quite effectively. A full rupture is a different story.

I strained my groin back in October. It's only just approaching fully healed now. I've continued bouldering on it throughout.

There have been quite a few moves where I've had to be careful and modify how I do a move. But I think there's only been about 3 moves in that period that I've had to avoid entirely and it hasn't impacted my maximum grade at all.

I don't think anything that I have done climbing has done further damage to it. I have to warm my legs up more thoroughly and more gradually.

I have had to be far more cautious with it during stretching, yoga and especially running. There are stretches/poses that I've had to avoid for a long time and I had to stop running altogether for a few months.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Andy F on July 01, 2022, 06:31:00 pm
I'm climbing around it indoors, but given the current price of fuel an the cost of living crunch I'm not going outside until it's worth spending the cash to climb well. As I've achieved my main aim for the year, it's not a huge problem at the moment.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: James Malloch on July 01, 2022, 09:52:40 pm
Jan/Feb/March

- keep up with physio and get running again
Yes - but then stopped before the trip so think I’d need to build up a lot again
- climb twice a week to get happy on board circuits/problems after injury
Climbed a lot
- some pre-hab (TBC) to work on some grips I don’t use much
Crimped a lot more - think it’s helped

April onwards

- Quit job and head off in van
Massive Tick
- 7b onsight
Very close on 2 occasions - misreading the last move on both
- 7b+ onsight
- 7c onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
Didn't try it in the end - hopefully get back there later this year
- don’t get sucked into hard boulders
Flash or very quick so far. Anything more seems to break me!
- have fun and take time to properly relax
So far so good
- do some big multi day walks in Europe
So far we’ve only climbed and done one-day walks
- eat a lot of french pastries
Smashing this
- find job to start in 2023 for when we come back

- if I can’t get a visa to stay in Europe for 9 months, tick off some of my 2021 route aims
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on July 02, 2022, 09:20:36 am
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

In terms of life; life is vastly better than it was and I'm really happy with that. Rebalancing and getting back on my career, new (great) job, renovating my apartment etc. Basically all good stuff.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on July 02, 2022, 11:11:02 am
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!

To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Aussiegav on July 02, 2022, 08:45:42 pm
Having been injured since mid March and still injured now, it’s not been the year I envisioned. So here’s state of play.

Outside Climbing
30 or more days outside climbing.
(8 so far)

Onsight 6c
Onsight 6b+
10 easy Redpoints 6b to 6c+ (6 so far)
Redpoint 7a in a day

Indoor climbing (Onsight/Flash) 

 I know, who counts indoor routes?? Beggars can’t be choosers.
50x 6a (15 so far)
40x 6a+ (13 so far)
30x 6b (1 so far)
20x 6b+ (2 so far)
5x 6c  (Redpoint)


Will not be able to achieve all these one listed below now. I’ve not renewed my School membership, will use a commercial gym to get more easier climbing to rebuild from these injuries. The Depot only has the 2019 I think.

Moonboards
Moonboard 2016 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder (1 so far)

Moonboard 2017 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder


Moonboard 2019 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder (1 so far)

50 Degree Board
4x 6b or harder
 


Work
Starting building my coaching alongside my nursing.
Get 5 clients for coaching.   (1 so far)
Get 1 team for coaching. 2 - pro bono, would like paying team

Really hoping to get past this pulley injury soon & salvage the year. Knee is coming on ok now.
Best of luck to everyone
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on July 03, 2022, 09:58:37 am
If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!
You awful person, enough of that rot  :sick: :chair:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: remus on July 03, 2022, 11:20:34 pm
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!

To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.

Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Carliios on July 04, 2022, 02:00:49 pm
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!

To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.

I thought Top Shop Low at Blackwell Dale was a pretty friendly 7B+ With a few hard moves and droppable too but all the moves are workable individually too which is always helpful
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on July 04, 2022, 02:22:41 pm
I'd rather just generically improve and see grades come naturally, but that said I'd definitely like to get myself to Blackwell Dale and Roche Abbey and try some stuff there as I've not visited either crag!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: seankenny on July 05, 2022, 04:40:23 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on July 05, 2022, 04:54:10 pm
Winter

Still hoping to get to the Alps, not looking like it will be this month as planned, might need to put back. Twice!

More ski touring. Had some great days last year, but limited to "local". Be nice to get to West Coast, and never skied 'Coe. nope, skis didn't see Scottish Snow.

Failing that, get on some winter routes if conditions for skiing don't come good. Nothing crazy, a few IIIs or IVs maybe, not swung an axe in about 8 years (apart from easy ski approaches). Might even upgrade kit, Vegas and Pirahnas look archaic.

Nope

Rock

Local bouldering projects. Some

Get to more Scottish spots; Drumore / Torridon / Strathnairn etc. Not Yet

Couple of mountain trad routes. Not yet, season still early

Get psyched for a local sport project. Actually clipped some bolts, but no project yet.

Climb the trad line I spotted locally on an unrecorded crag a few years back, that no-one has found yet. Not yet

Do some local DWS. Not yet

Sea

any of;

More surfing

Some more SUPing

Just getting in the sea more - it's only a 15 min walk from the door.
Shite, been swimming once, surfing nonece

Running

1000 km total in the year 6k behind target in spite of COVID and injuries, will count that as a win.

otherwise; still undecided, might do another marathon or ultra, or maybe focus on a half marathon PB. still not decided, 50km Ultra in November I think

Not neglect strength and conditioning and don't get injured again. So far so good

Personal

Get face out of screens and read more. yup

Sort out finances. kind of

get house extension done. nope - no real progress - got a quote.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on July 05, 2022, 04:59:47 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...

It's fucking tough mate. You're a brave man sticking it out and still trying to set goals and be supportive. I'm sure your other half doesn't see you as a bad partner at all, you're sick and long term illness is bloody hard, you can only do what you can do.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: monkoffunk on July 06, 2022, 03:39:09 pm
I was planning on doing this at the end of January after a bit of time to consider some plans post exam year.

Unfortunately I dislocated my patella yesterday walking across my bedroom of all things.

That’s slightly altered the start of my year but anyway few goals for this year:

1. Do a ton of physio
2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now.
3. Climb again.
4. Especially on rock…
5. Sort out home training facilities.
6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.

Agree very much with above, I’m impressed by everyone I meet right now keeping on going through some tough times, and puts my own injuries etc into perspective.

Here’s how much year is going in brief:

Certainly much happier in general after 2021 the year of exam revision. So good to draw a line under all of that. Lots of areas I could improve on still, but I’m more content despite not doing much on paper.

For the goals:

1. Physio - kept this going pretty well until I could run again and then has tailed off somewhat. Need to improve this as the reason my knee dislocated again was in some part due to pre-existing muscle imbalances, it wasn’t just about rehabbing this injury.

2. Restart running - have done this sooner than the physios said despite there still being some discrepancy in leg strength, but needed to for sanity. Have signed up for Bournemouth half marathon again now, so do have a specific goal. My pace is still way off pre knee so I doubt any PBs will be set, but I have some time before October to at least get up to the distance.

3. Climb again. I’ve done this! (Not enough, but some)

4. Especially on rock. Climbed down in Swanage once, felt unbelievable unfit but was still fun. Felt really strange finding 6a absolutely nails and not being able to do moves on a 7a, but I didn’t have expectations and was just great being on rock. Just back from first Font trip post pandemic which was also great. Repeated a 6C I had done some years ago in a couple of goes and some circuits in the heat which was fun. Had a crack at the sit to Danger Majeur at Sabots, couldn’t get off the floor, but other than that didn’t feel far off, so psyched for next time!

5. Haven’t built home wall yet, but living arrangements still somewhat fluid. Have some home gym stuff.

6. Am sticking with the habit tracker pretty well to kept some consistency going with the various things I’d like to do better (yoga, sleep, etc). Will aim to do better second half of year!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on July 06, 2022, 04:48:25 pm
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!

To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.

Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.

Interesting. My finger strength on a 20mm edge is extremely poor for my climbing grade, but actually quite good on small edges. I've learnt that I need to be crimping at a very high angle and pulling outwards on the holds (like a pound shop Aidan), or I'm not very good! On my one visit to Roche, I had a power hour going right to left of Beef Buttress, trying all the independent lines up to 7B+. I started with Fallen Idol and nearly flashed it, but by the time I got to The Fool at the other end it felt pretty hard and I didn't quite finish it. It may be steady with adequate rest.

However, I'm dubious of your grading since getting to try Kleptomania recently; it definitely felt harder than 7A+ to me! In fact it feels quite a bit harder than either the fool or fallen idol and I didn't manage to clip the chains that session. Quality moves though, so it's not too disappointing having to return!

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: abarro81 on July 06, 2022, 06:04:08 pm
I concur with Remus  - Fallen Idol is miles harder than The Fool, and incomparably harder than the crux of Kelpto.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fultonius on July 06, 2022, 06:56:09 pm
Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.

After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.

I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.

I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical), and give me some space to:

  • Train
  • Start / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get done
  • Develop my freelance network
  • Get better at Sea-Kayaking with OH,
  • Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)
  • Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there.
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron.
> Start working Reqiuem
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.


Tick
Begun, but less progress than I hoped. Did convert my home wall into a decent workbench though, so that's a win.
In progress, but time will tell how sustainable it ends up.
Later in the year we have a weekend trip planned.
Plans changed Off to the Bugaboos in a month for 5 weeks  :great:
In progress...
[/list]

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there. Tried
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron. One done, one to go.
> Start working Reqiuem Not been on it yet.
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada Maybe next week
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?) Barely been bouldering, just more psyched on trad and sport just now. That said, did have a good ession on the new Dubh Lic Boulders and got close on Feast for Croes 7B https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dubh-lic_boulders-28920/a_feast_for_croes_stand-629394

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there. Just dismantled it for now, and built a big carpenter's wokbench instead.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.  Not terrible, but definitely some wear. Apparently the old PCL repair is still looking tight.

Not bad for half the year, and some good reminders of things to do!  Good luck everyone with 2022.5 (especially for those really toughing it out)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: AJM on July 06, 2022, 07:40:22 pm
Outdoor climbing
- as last year, I’d like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute

 Some progress on this, definitely. I've certainly done a lot more sport climbing. I've tried to onsight 2 7as (both second go), I've done 2 quick 7a+s, and I've had 2 fairly short sessions on Zinc Oxide Mountain, which ticks all the sort of boxes I was looking for in getting back into some projecting again, even if nominally it's 7b+ rather than 7c/+

- I’d like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the Beast

Only just beginning

- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 again

I would feel a bit cheeky putting orange for my one VS...

- Progress on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder things to try” ticklists.

nice and easy, I've done one thing of the first one.

- Bouldering - I’d like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.

Not really. A slow to heal hamstring tweak and a finger niggle hampered my bouldering campaign, plus I got the opportunity to do more roped stuff and jumped at it.

Indoor/training
- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, I’d like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.

I'll go optimistic on this, I've done a lot more basic shoulder and push work than in previous years, definitely regained and I think improved a little the tuck planche but not done much other benchmarking as yet

- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case I’d like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.
- Try to build a stretching habit

Nope to both of these. I started with good intentions and did fairly ok but then the finger hampered the board time and the hamstring tweak made me reluctant to stretch it

Life
-  less doom scrolling. I’m usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!

Optimistically this is orange, I have definitely done some other things but it is definitely a case of less rather than none

- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasn’t really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!

Making some progress on this, I think, definitely been doing a bit more outdoor stuff as a family and also starting to create a bit more child free space for each other as well
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wood FT on July 06, 2022, 07:51:52 pm
Outdoor climbing
- as last year, I’d like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute

 Some progress on this, definitely. I've certainly done a lot more sport climbing. I've tried to onsight 2 7as (both second go), I've done 2 quick 7a+s, and I've had 2 fairly short sessions on Zinc Oxide Mountain, which ticks all the sort of boxes I was looking for in getting back into some projecting again, even if nominally it's 7b+ rather than 7c/+

- I’d like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the Beast

Only just beginning

- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 again

I would feel a bit cheeky putting orange for my one VS...

- Progress on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder things to try” ticklists.

nice and easy, I've done one thing of the first one.

- Bouldering - I’d like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.

Not really. A slow to heal hamstring tweak and a finger niggle hampered my bouldering campaign, plus I got the opportunity to do more roped stuff and jumped at it.

Indoor/training
- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, I’d like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.

I'll go optimistic on this, I've done a lot more basic shoulder and push work than in previous years, definitely regained and I think improved a little the tuck planche but not done much other benchmarking as yet

- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case I’d like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.
- Try to build a stretching habit

Nope to both of these. I started with good intentions and did fairly ok but then the finger hampered the board time and the hamstring tweak made me reluctant to stretch it

Life
-  less doom scrolling. I’m usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!

Optimistically this is orange, I have definitely done some other things but it is definitely a case of less rather than none

- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasn’t really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!

Making some progress on this, I think, definitely been doing a bit more outdoor stuff as a family and also starting to create a bit more child free space for each other as well

Quite a few of us down from Sheff at Lulworth this weekend, AJM.

Not in shape at all but I’ll be throwing myself at Beast anyway.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: AJM on July 06, 2022, 07:54:42 pm
Ah cool - weather looks good for it! I'll have to see how I get on, my littlest has chickenpox atm so depends how that's going...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on July 06, 2022, 08:28:12 pm
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!

To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.

Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.

Interesting. My finger strength on a 20mm edge is extremely poor for my climbing grade, but actually quite good on small edges. I've learnt that I need to be crimping at a very high angle and pulling outwards on the holds (like a pound shop Aidan), or I'm not very good! On my one visit to Roche, I had a power hour going right to left of Beef Buttress, trying all the independent lines up to 7B+. I started with Fallen Idol and nearly flashed it, but by the time I got to The Fool at the other end it felt pretty hard and I didn't quite finish it. It may be steady with adequate rest.

However, I'm dubious of your grading since getting to try Kleptomania recently; it definitely felt harder than 7A+ to me! In fact it feels quite a bit harder than either the fool or fallen idol and I didn't manage to clip the chains that session. Quality moves though, so it's not too disappointing having to return!



I concur with Remus  - Fallen Idol is miles harder than The Fool, and incomparably harder than the crux of Kelpto.

Classic "fit and actually quite strong sport climbers underestimate the boulder grade of a route / very strong but unfit boulderer underestimates the grade of a boulder problem / overestimates the boulder grade of a route" here.  :lol:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: reeve on July 06, 2022, 09:44:29 pm
Good effs those who are pushing along despite illness etc.


Climbing
More E-points than last year (so >184) current count: 108
Try some harder trad routes (i.e. take some entertaining wangers): let’s say five E6s in fair style two (although one was a bit high-bally) but a finger pulley and dodgy elbow have been holding me back so not going amazingly on this front
Get on some big multi-pitch adventures (stuff like Main Cliff, South Stack, anything where if you get stuck you have to abseil into the sea [but ideally don’t get stuck]) Going to have to pull my finger out here!
Three 8a’s and a couple of 8a+’s (the latter would be the first in five years) ha ha ha... finger and elbow definitely curtailed this
Maintain some semblance of strength not being humiliatingly weak throughout summer by going on the board or hanging at least weekly. At a stretch, dare I say it, end the year stronger than now. hilarious; what was I thinking?
Get stuck into some dirty offwidth somewhere yes! (an injured finger is good for something at last); do some DWS and use the opportunity to heckle “friends” into the sea not had the chance yet; bivvy / wildcamp and climb somewhere green-tick wankers don’t go not made the opportuniy yet; another new route not made the opportunity yet; do a route at Malham (last time I did was 2013!) nope; 10 trips in the van 3 so far (unless you count the times we've slept in it on the drive when the neighbours have been noisy - see below); Darkthrone not tried; go abroad nope; get to a bunch of new-to-me crags as this was great fun in 2021 a mighty 12!.


Non-climbing
Sound-proof the entire house from our friendly (but shouty) neighbours. New kitchen. no and no, but last weekend I did put the fence back up which blew down in November
Finish bloody PGDip before the fucker gets extended – yet again – to the following year so close to finishing this off now...
Keep on with general lifestyle changes and keep the passion for work, which is what makes it enjoyable I'll take this
Treat Marie even more than last year winning here
See more of friends – finding this harder than ever since March 2020 feel like I'm fighting a losing battle on this one at times
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Stabbsy on July 11, 2022, 04:20:39 pm
Mixed bag for my half year round-up.

A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.

Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.

Didn't make it till March - arrived in Feb, but nowhere near as early as the first one. My wife's back running again which is great, but room for improvement on not being a grumpy arse.

If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.

Started well, so bordering on green, but last 2 months have been a struggle to get much done due to eldest being ill, followed by me being ill then various holidays, so pretty much missed the last 6-8 weeks. Managed a fair amount of climbing in March/April and a few house and garden jobs.

2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).

Next to nowt - afternoon at Stanage and an evening at Burbage North is the combined total of 6 months roped climbing. Difficult to predict when I'll get out, so hard to line partners up and not let them down last minute hence bouldering/running have been easier to fit in.

3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).

My bouldering pyramid looks more like a cowpat than ever! Loads of stuff up to 7B and nothing harder. Felt like I was going well in April and ready to commit to some harder stuff, but then illness and getting out infrequently means I've lost what form I had and feel like I've got a long way to go to get back to a decent level.

4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.

Green for the road PBs, red for everything else. Amber overall seems fair.

Half marathon PB in January (1:18:30), 10-mile PB as part of the half marathon (59:29) and a 5-mile PB (29:23) as part of the local road league. All of this year's 5-mile courses were pretty hilly, so I've probably run faster for 5 miles as part of a flat 10k. Won the local road league for the V45 age group and was first V40 at a road 10k in February - came away with £50 in cash and £100 worth of kit, so pretty pleasing overall.

Fell season has been a shambles pretty much from start to finish. Ran well at first race of the year, then had 2 English Champs races where I've been ill and way off the pace followed by a third where I was running reasonably well before I picked up an injury in my foot on the first descent and had to hobble home. Decided to knock the rest of the series on the head and focus on road stuff for a couple of months.
 
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on December 23, 2022, 11:04:14 pm
When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: edshakey on December 23, 2022, 11:08:52 pm
You're about 3 hours later than it was this time last year when the 2021 thread got reopened. So seems like fair game!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: jwi on December 24, 2022, 06:49:46 am
When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?

When all hope is gone
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on December 24, 2022, 07:52:54 am
When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?

Whenever you like! Still time though...  ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: csl on December 24, 2022, 09:48:35 am
Climb one of each discipline from my "lifetime list" ticklist
  • Jerry's Roof
  • Dominatrix
  • Some classic trad in Pembroke or N. Wales
  • A long rock route in the mountains

Train consistently
  • Do at least 90% of planned sessions
  • Climb 50% of my "#ldnclmbr" ticklist

Make outdoor sessions count
  • Have a plan and visit specific routes/boulders
  • Do at least 2 sessions on each goal route/boulder

Well let me get us started with some abject failure, then everyone else can feel good about themselves.

I did none of this, other than "A long rock route in the mountains" - went to Lofoten and had the trip of a lifetime with some great pals. Highlight was climbing Vestpillaren Direct in the midnight sun, it was 28º in the Arctic circle so we started climbing at around 10pm.

Maybe I'll have to make some more realistic goals next year.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on December 24, 2022, 10:40:37 am
Trip of a lifetime sounds like a bigger win than any normal goal csl!

What's on the #ldnclmbr ticklist?
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Hoseyb on December 24, 2022, 11:23:33 am
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.

I'll just roll these over to next year. However did at least get some practice in taking the Mick out of Fiend, and my handful of trips out were at least mostly in company. Here's to staying in one piece next year.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: csl on December 24, 2022, 11:29:12 am
Trip of a lifetime sounds like a bigger win than any normal goal csl!

What's on the #ldnclmbr ticklist?

It was great, and followed by having a baby a month later so the lack of success is fairly easily explained.

The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Yossarian on December 24, 2022, 11:39:45 am

The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.

Intersperse that with a few board problems set with custom-designed black limba and olive wood crimps, fuelled by a diet heavy in natural wine and habanero granita and we’re halfway there…
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 24, 2022, 11:57:55 am
2 x 8A
10 x ≥7C
side splits

3 fails, but it has still been my best year of climbing in terms of climbing harder stuff.

Looking at the numbers, I managed:

1 x 8A that was probably legit
1 x 8A that I kneebarred down to 7C
1 x 8A that was downgraded to 7C+
1 x 8a route

Lots of sessions sunk into an 8A+ that was abandoned due to constant splits.

More sessions put into a different 8A+ that I'm still psyched for.

9 ≥ 7C

The biggest spanking was on the side splits goal. I've trained it 2-3 times each week and made almost no progress in a whole year  :furious:

I think next year's aims will be more process based rather than achievement.


Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Andy F on December 24, 2022, 01:22:14 pm
1) Recover 100% from COVID
2) 7b+ sport
3) 7A boulder

Setting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful
1) success, but it took around 2 months
2) success, climbed my first 8a at the Tor aged 50, did some good stuff in the 7b+/7c range but injury curtailed the summer mostly
3)Fail, only went bouldering once and snow meant no top-outs
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: yetix on December 24, 2022, 02:00:24 pm
Can't find a post by me but have goals on my phone of:
3x8A (0 but feeling close on more than 3, just terrible at going back to anything I don't do in a session)
10x7C+ or above (11, so 1 goal done)
30x7C and above (20)
5 nemisis from last year (2 so far)

Need to get better at going back to things

Managed 2 8As.
-Fell off the last move of another many many times and was super close before the wet November period.
-Fell off one of the last hard moves of another twice I think.
-Nearly did foxy lady in about an hour in MW in mid summer and then nearly split and didn't get the chance to try it again as the skin damage never recovered (a lesson in over antihydral use)
-Did never ending story part 2 from a move in and could do the first move every go, but wasnt able to link it.

Managed to do 14 7C+s and up.
-big tick as thats way more than I'd ever done before.

So far managed 27 7Cs and above this year with 23 of them coming between April and July before I got pretty focused on projecting and training.
-Might still manage to do some more of these if the weather allows.

Managed to do 4 things I'd struggled on last year, was very close on a few others and may still manage to get this to 5 before the end of the year.

In retrospect I'm happy with my year, but I've definitely seen long periods of not feeling happy with how I've been climbing. Summer once again thrawted a good climbing bloc and then I found it hard to get going again really until earlier this week. May have to evaluate how I approach summer next year and not spend a trip abroad trying to project again because that sucks!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on December 24, 2022, 02:52:39 pm

The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.

Intersperse that with a few board problems set with custom-designed black limba and olive wood crimps, fuelled by a diet heavy in natural wine and habanero granita and we’re halfway there…

Ha yes I was envisioning something involving climbing Captain Hook and Zippy's Traverse while it's raining, dabbing heavily on the crux of Jerry's Roof and then leaving enormous tick marks on Gorilla Warfare  :-\
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on December 24, 2022, 03:53:45 pm
I didn't achieve any of my objectives, but they were all somewhat foolishly set anyway, and prior to my injury, and now I'm a bit wiser about it all and have more reasonable plans

I also am really loving bouldering and have never felt better about it, so all in all, having a good time :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ed booth on December 24, 2022, 03:54:49 pm
CLIMBING:
-Planning on trianing through Jan and Feb and into March with the aim of hitting Malham in the Spring. Would love to finish off Predator and really want to climb Bat Route. Plan to go on other routes there too to help build fitness and dial into the style again. Predator not fully my style so if it's taking ages and using up dry crag days I may just crack on with Bat Route. Never really got going with building a good strength base only spring trips to Yorkshire were to Malham where I failed to finish off Soft Option.
-Get back to doing more Fr8a's and above. Think I only did a few in 2021. Aim for >10 Think I only did a repeat of 1 8a at Dinbren and that was it this year !
-Whilst training this next few months will try to get out locally and want to finish off Sub-Moron (Tom Newman's Fb8a at Grinshill) and maybe the odd day out elsewhere to keep the motivation up. Fail , tried a few times but cycling started taking over early.
-Hopefully carry some form and fitness out of the Spring and just enjoy some good climbing around the country through the summer. I've got loads of trad and sport routes that have been on my wish list for the past 5 years now. With the kids I've had to manage my expectations better so I will be grateful for just doing anything really, I just want to feel like I've pushed myself. Generally just got totally bogged down with loads of cycle prep so the climbing took a back seat resulting in little action.
-Finish some things on the Slate like Quarryman Groove (and should try the rest too) and Wall Within. Didn’t get back on Quarryman but did do couple of cool 7c’s and got close on Wish You Were Here . Tried Wall Within but both the latter routes were wet .
- I would like to try Unchi Maka on the Sialouze in the French Alps if I can create an oppurtunity to get out there at the right time with somebody psyched. Also the Brandler Hasse in the Dollys (see below) Didn’t try either. Glad I didn’t try BH, would have been a disaster/epic (see further down).
-Couple of routes that I never got back on after getting close in a session are Supercool and Nemesis so be good to finish these off. Didn’t go on either. Was at Cornice in early summer when it was dry but I didn’t have any board form and after nearly doing it in a sesh year before couldn’t really see the point knowing I would struggle on the moves without the relevant power. Will make sure I’m ready to pounce for this one next in 2023.
-If I get to Pembroke and am feeling fit and have any trad momentum would be keen to try From A Distance .

LIFE:
-Got a 1 and a 3 year old so I'm always trying to get the balance right of doing my bit at home to maximise time away from the family, and juggling it all with work and being knackered. Relative success . Both sleeping through and that means more energy for my wife and I to be able to do more with our time off .
-Once early winter climbing training is out of the way and I'm getting outside more will start cycling again in preparation for hopefully doing the Dolomites Haute Route event in September. I'd like to tie this into to doing something like the Brandler Hasse which I have always wanted to do. Don't want it to take over my climbing but I'm crap at back to back days of sport climbing anyway so mixing it up with the odd bike day here and there shouldn't be too detrimental, and it feels good to get fit. Bike training went well and had a great time doing the Haute Route. My Brother and I both finishing top 50 after a big days racing up and over mountain passes through stunning dolomites scenery.
I suppose it should have been expected but the trainjng completely took over my climbing and didn’t really notice my climbing form dropping off . At the end of our trip in Dollies we had time for a few routes and I had been thinking of Brandler Hasse. We tried Yellow Wall instead . This is where I realised how not climbing all summer turned out to not be very conducive to staying in form. Had to bail after 4 pitches with terminal pump. In hindsight brandler hasse would have been a ridiculous prospect with the form (lack of ) that I had following a summer of biking.
All in all , a fun year , but really looking forward to getting back on it with the climbing in 2023. I guess most of the goals will stay the same but that’s for another post.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Will Hunt on December 24, 2022, 04:16:27 pm
CLIMBING:
 Never really got going with building a good strength base only spring trips to Yorkshire were to Malham where I failed to finish off Soft Option.

Don't beat yourself up, Ed. A trip to the right crag and I'm sure you'll fly up it.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: spidermonkey09 on December 24, 2022, 05:57:08 pm
Not too bad on the whole.

Sport Climbing
1) Spend some time on another 8c. Probably Cry Freedom if spring conditions allow me to get on the top bit. I am keen for Bats and Dogs too but working it is a nightmare currently with all the Rainman aspirants so might wait until they've got it ticked. Had a few sessions on Cry Freedom but got absolutely nowhere with the top crux. It felt about 7C+ and I only did the hard move once in three full sessions trying it. Sacked it off as it was going to be at least 8c+ for me and possibly harder. Went on Unjustified in the autumn and enjoyed that much more. Its also much easier! Keen for Bats and Dogs after that.
2) Do The Groove, and as a result complete the Triple Crown. Nope. Did Something Stupid though!
3) A Kilnsey 8b. Maybe Stolen or Showtime. My ukc says I have but I haven't; Grooved Arete is never 8b.
4) Go back to Ceuse.  Tick. great two week trip.

Trad
1) Make sure I keep doing some as I love it and it gives my climbing better balance than just bolt clipping all the time. enjoyed exploring the lancs quarries and some dartmoor granite especially.
2) Try an E6. Probably a Pembroke one that is safe. I fully expect to fall off but would like to at least get on one. Suggestions welcome! never tried anything hard.
3) Try to do some more trad in Scotland. never really had the chance.

Bouldering (these are mostly rolled over from last year).
1) It was noticeable how little appetite I had for bouldering projects in 2021 which resulted in no gritstone 7Cs despite being close on a few. It would be good to finally do one again as I haven't climbed a grit 7C since 2019. Keen for Lager Lager Lager. Did Lager and Treebeard in two sessions each. Really enjoyed them both and they felt steady (sorry Bradders!)
2) Try Tourniquet at Kentmere. This looks like a decent long term 8A (?  :worms:) candidate and its not that far from me now. Pulled on once. It felt nails but didn't try it properly.
3) Go and try Cashmere Cat with a big team. still want to do this.

Training
1) Get fingerboard up in new house and get back on it. I have been really lazy the last few months and got distracted by board climbing after being quite diligent for a year. much better than last year!
2) bodyweight hang on bottom middle slot. lol. this feels further and further away!
3) maintain shoulder strengthening and hamstring rehab. Keep stretching. sporadic bursts of conditioning but effective when I did it.

Life
1) Get dog. rehomed a labrador last week!
2) Go on a holiday abroad with partner. went to spain in Jan and RRG in October.
2) peck away at house DIY starting to become clear where all my time went...
2) Don't get kicked off the PhD in the first year. now the real work starts...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on December 24, 2022, 06:17:57 pm
Did Lager and Treebeard in two sessions each. Really enjoyed them both and they felt steady (sorry Bradders!)

Haha that's okay, we all have our strengths  ;)

Tourniquet at Kentmere. This felt nails

 ;D
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ed booth on December 24, 2022, 06:47:21 pm
Quote from: Will Hunt
Don't beat yourself up, Ed. A trip to the right crag and I'm sure you'll fly up it.
[/quote

Good spot. Make that the other one . Goredale I mean
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Bradders on December 24, 2022, 08:09:44 pm
Training
- >12 sessions on boards other than my own - ended up doing this easily, had something like 20 including ancap sessions on the Pudsey Depot 30'. Funnily enough though, I'm really pleased with how my own board climbs now.

- Keep up endurance training over winter; would be great to get back on a rope in spring and not feel like I'm starting from scratch again endurance wise. Actually quite enjoy the basic suffering of foot on campussing. - plenty of longer endurance in the first half of the year and weekly ancap sessions in the second half.

- Minimise missed training sessions - Yep, big tick. Done almost everything week in, week out!

- Stretch / yoga 5x per week - not so good with this. I don't know why it's so hard to just do a bit instead of sitting on the sofa in the evening!

Climbing
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff, Caley or Earl; been threatening to have a go at this for years, Caley feels most likely so hopefully conditions allow in February / March time. - distracted by other things throughout winter / early spring and then got injured. Only been to Caley twice this year, and didn’t climb on one of those! I did however go to Almscliff last week (for the first time this year) and the fire was definitely rekindled. Will be a nice thing to do in between training in January.

- Do more things likely to take 2-4 sessions; particularly sport but boulders too. Last year did a lot of 2nd or 3rd go "in a day" redpoints which was fine as a way of racking up routes but I suspect that doing harder routes would actually be more beneficial both physically and tactically. - no sport, but still finding this so hard to get right on the boulders. I've done 12 problems this year which have taken more than a session though, which actually looking back isn't bad for me, and is more than the last couple of years. Still finding it a tricky line to find between 2-4 session things and longer term projects. However....

- Get better at 'sealing the deal' - adding this in as I wrote it down but for some reason didn't post it originally. This comes up in all sorts of situations; e.g. done all the moves just need to link, done the problem in halves just need to link, do the problem in a couple of goes, do it first go of second session, do it at the end of a session rather than let it spill over to another, etc. The idea being that it's better to get something over the line than let it fester. Lots of examples of having managed to seal the deal in all those situations this year, which is something I'm really pleased with! In fact virtually all of the harder things I've done have involved this skill in one way or another.

- Keep doing easier routes but must either onsight, flash or walk away; no 2nd go redpoints of anything <7b. Would love to get better at flashing things at least, given how tricky UK onsighting can be. Walking away will be tricky for the ego! - nope. I've done an awful lot of low 7 boulder problems though, and flashed a 7B, 2 7A+s and 4 7As, which I'm pleased with as I rarely flash things.

- Go abroad again! Font, Swiss and / or Ireland - yes, great big tick. Unfortunately picked up a bad wrist injury a week before Font (I couldn't hang from a fingerboard...), but still had a great time doing loads of climbing, ending up climbing 5 days in a row, then had a fantastic time in SW Ireland doing loads of quality problems and even a clutch of FAs. Big plans for next year on this front.

- >100 sessions on rock - 80 as of today, so not bad at all. Always going to be tricky navigating early parenthood and there have been several poor decisions in there but overall it's gone well.

- >10 sessions bouldering on Eastern lime
- >10 sessions bouldering on central Peak lime - yep, something like 30 overall, including lots in the Castleton area which proved a lot of fun.

Grade Chasing
- 8A - nope. Last move dropper a couple of times on Jelly of the Beast before the season closed on it (how not to seal the deal!) so will be back for it next year! Rightly downgraded The Golden Shot (although it's still not 7C!!). Didn't try any others!

- 8a+ (or at least try one) - nope. Got to the penultimate move of Kleptomania in a session but never went back (one of only two sport sessions this year)

- >10 7C and up - done 12 so pleased with that

Life
- Go part time; I'm in the extremely fortunate position where this is both possible at work and, should be, financially viable. It's a biggy as it should help everything else on this list. It's already all agreed with a 3 month test period from February to end of April, so fingers crossed it works out. It's still pretty scary given that whenever I look at the news there are dire warnings about inflation / cost of living, etc. - technically I'm back to full time but very lucky to be able to work really flexibly.

- Get made permanent at current grade at work; been on various secondments at this level since December 2018! Current role looks good, management saying all the right things and the work is certainly there to be done, so fingers crossed. Part time shouldn't affect it, and may actually help.  - Yes, big fat tick

- Be a good husband and father; last on the list but really it's first y'know. - I can't really answer this one. I hope so though!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on December 24, 2022, 08:36:01 pm


1. Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now), and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse, and also not getting fat.

Tick. I read this out to my wife earlier and she confirmed I have achieved this. Apart from occasionally being a grumpy arse.

2. Climb at least one 8a. Have done at least one a year since 2008, and not about to let that slip now! I'd like it to be the big link up from the tench at potato, but will have to see how the year pans out time wise.
Half tick. Did Maris Piper at potato head, but it's probably 7c+ if I'm honest. It is also absolutely amazing so who gives a shit. Started putting a bit of time into the big link from the trench, and added the extra bolts needed, but never managed to get the time on it in the autumn due to family stuff. Very keen for it next year.

3. Keep strong enough at home o the board to be able to bust out the occasional 7B boulder problem.

Haven't bouldered outdoors once, but got back into getting to the wall with wife, so feeling in not bad shape.

4. Run as much as possible, maybe do something big late summer

Got pretty fit and signed up for an ultra in June, then predictably got carried away and re injured my calf. No running for 3 months which was annoying, but it did kick me back into doing some climbing. Calf is still feeling niggly, but been getting out again a bit.

That's it really. Main goal for the year is to keep expectations for my own stuff low, and enjoy the crap out of it when I do get out to do stuff. Whilst repeating the mantra "it's just a phase"

I feel like this was a tick.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: abarro81 on December 24, 2022, 09:25:41 pm
General
- Avoid (m)any negative spirals about injury, other life stresses, etc.
2022 went pretty well on this front, certainly compared to 2020/2021. I even managed to (mostly) look on my first pulley injury in a long while as a "win" since it was a marker that I'd got back to pulling hard enough on small enough holds to hurt a pulley , which hadn't been on the agenda for quite some time! 

UK
- Do 2 or more Kilnsey roof proj/link ideas (Preposterous direct exit, Preposterous direct entrance, Guns direct, Premonition/Epic, Showtime Epic... some of these need cleaning and a few extra bolts)
Didn't get in the roof this summer, will have to roll to 2023
- Cornice proj (need to bolt it first)
Became Malcolm in the Middle; only a new long boulder really but some cool moves
- Aladdin, King of Thieves (if finger can take it)
Didn't get to Giggleswick

Abroad (hard to be too specific as I'm not sure where we'll go yet)
- Climb lots of fun things in fun places
- Redpoint some hard stuff (>=8c+)
Managed 8c+ in UK, Spain and Canada, and in a variety of styles which was cool
- Onsight some hard stuff (>=8b)
- Flash some hard stuff (>=8b+)
Lots of 8b onsight/flash and a couple of 8b+ onsights this year. God I love first-try climbing on long steep routes! My fave thing is sitting in a knee at 40m thinking "damn I wish my calves/feet/core were fitter and this last bit didn't look so droppable!" then fighting through to the end. More please!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: SA Chris on December 24, 2022, 10:24:41 pm
Winter

Still hoping to get to the Alps, not looking like it will be this month as planned, might need to put back. Twice!

More ski touring. Had some great days last year, but limited to "local". Be nice to get to West Coast, and never skied 'Coe. nope, skis didn't see Scottish Snow.

Failing that, get on some winter routes if conditions for skiing don't come good. Nothing crazy, a few IIIs or IVs maybe, not swung an axe in about 8 years (apart from easy ski approaches). Might even upgrade kit, Vegas and Pirahnas look archaic.

Nope

Rock

Local bouldering projects. Some

Get to more Scottish spots; Drumore / Torridon / Strathnairn etc. Fail

Couple of mountain trad routes. Fail

Get psyched for a local sport project. Actually clipped some bolts, but no projectong

Climb the trad line I spotted locally on an unrecorded crag a few years back, that no-one has found yet. Nope

Do some local DWS. yes! Had a cracking evening at Murrayheugh, weather was marginal drizzle but didn't really matter. Psyched for some of the bigger lines

Sea

any of;

More surfing had a couple of great mornings in Tenerife

Some more SUPing a bit, gorgeous day on Loch Rannoch

Just getting in the sea more - it's only a 15 min walk from the door.
been swimming once or twice, surfing nonece

Running

1000 km total in the year  20 k over already with a week to spare

otherwise; still undecided, might do another marathon or ultra, or maybe focus on a half marathon PB.  only did one HM but PBed by nearly 3 minutes. PB in Illuminator too

Not neglect strength and conditioning and don't get injured again. rehabbing pulley

Personal

Get face out of screens and read more. yup

Sort out finances. kind of - wheels in motion

get house extension done. nope - no real progress - got a quote.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: kingholmesy on December 24, 2022, 10:39:52 pm
[b]Climbing[/b]

Get myself in sufficient shape to climb 3 E5s onsight - it would be good to do some stuff in the hard but safe category.

Scraped my way up a handful of E5s, but they were either soft or short head pointy things.  Overall felt like it wasn’t a year when I was really crushing, but had a few good days out.

[b]Life[/b]

Negotiate a pay rise, or change jobs, while maintaining home life with the family.
[/quote]

Got offered a new job and then negotiated a nearly 50% pay rise to stay where I am. Of course a chunk of that has since been eroded by inflation, but still can’t complain. The Mrs hasn’t chucked me yet either so I think doing ok on the home front.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: kingholmesy on December 24, 2022, 10:42:31 pm
Climbing

Get myself in sufficient shape to climb 3 E5s onsight - it would be good to do some stuff in the hard but safe category.

Scraped my way up a handful of E5s, but they were either soft or short head pointy things.  Overall felt like it wasn’t a year when I was really crushing, but had a few good days out.

Life

Negotiate a pay rise, or change jobs, while maintaining home life with the family.


Got offered a new job and then negotiated a nearly 50% pay rise to stay where I am. Of course a chunk of that has since been eroded by inflation, but still can’t complain. The Mrs hasn’t chucked me yet either so I think doing ok on the home front.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: edshakey on December 24, 2022, 11:37:36 pm
Trad

- At least one E3, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that.
Should maybe be a red, but given where I was halfway through the year, I'm happy with peaking at E2, with a decent shape below that. Maybe could have tried an E3 if I started earlier but barely tied in before the year was already halfway through
- Don't shy away from non-slabs: bit flimsy, but can't (shouldn't?) just climb slabs forever. Another potentially iffy one, but in fairness I think I just happened to end up in less steep places. Maybe that's my fault though!

Bouldering

- At least one 7A+, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that. Can't argue this one. Not any genuine 7s but a load of 6s. No psyche to get stronger for bouldering when every time I go out my skin limits attempts massively. Got pretty good at flashing stuff which does help somewhat. Might not have to go with no aim next year and see what happens, although this aim hardly pushed me on.

Sport

- At least one 7a+, less emphasis on the pyramid since I don't see myself doing a lot this year, but we'll see how it goes. Barely done any, but got extremely close to one 7a+. Would be interesting to see how I'd get on if I actually tried to get into route climbing shape
- Keep on top of endurance more, as a general good practice/not feeling like a complete punter every time I tie in. Decent til big depot shut, then couldn't be bothered with circuit boards

Training

- Fingerboard more than now (almost never). No particular goals, need to find my current level first. NOPE. Hard fail
- Actually campus something. Honestly even 1-2 on big rungs would be good, I'm reaching the limit of my zero-power approach to climbing, and it's definitely holding me back on things that should be routine. Might have even regressed!

Running

- Do a mountain marathon (probably Snowdonia trail marathon in July). Woohoo! Very happy with this (changed my whole year really). Did that race, decent time and placing given the conditions. Will be doing similar and more once my knee issues go away.
- Run at least one leg of the BGR, as a little taster (long long long term goal) No, but did runs of similar length and terrain, so not a total failure. Even more psyched to get this ticked in 2023

Other

- Visit at least 15 new crags Too easy. I counted approx 30, without trying to visit new ones just for the sake of it. There's a lot of rock out there, man!
- Help my partner with her goals I believe so. Not sure she necessarily achieved them, but I think I did all I reasonably could to assist.
- Go on a walking/scrambling/running trip to Scotland Was just climbing due to injury but it happened! And planning the next one already. Tis a wonderful place
- Come up with an idea of how these grade pyramids should look! Nahhh
- Actually make a bit of effort to meet some new partners, just been a bit lazy on that front since moving.
Another nahhh but on second thoughts, I'm going to hijack my own thought process because I joined a running club in order to meet new people for running, and it worked! So I made the same effort, just in a different sport  ;D

Overall, the running has changed everything. Much more psyche for that than climbing for long stretches of the year, so I naturally put less effort into climbing training - still got out plenty though. Still formulating plans for next year, and will see how the two balance each other.

It's amazing how a year can feel so long and so short at the same time.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Coops_13 on December 25, 2022, 09:48:29 am
Climbing

- Heal current injuries and remain uninjured for the year got uninjured, got reinsured. Almost uninjured again :D
- 5 V9s One questionable one this year but without the latest injury this could have been a possibility
- V10 Next year. Also need to learn how to project
- Go on at least three trips (weekend +) Wedding and other priorities killed this. 2023 is looking like a fantastic year for trips.

Training

- Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot I did achieve this before my latest injury!
- Get weight down to 80kg yes for summer crush, back up for the winter weight :D
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Yossarian on December 25, 2022, 10:10:49 am
Finally realised that everything climbing revolves around having a functioning / productive life, so my priorities are now (and will hopefully continue to be) heavily skewed in that direction....

Not convinced my life will ever in an entirely conventionally functional way, but have at least developed a better sense of my own ideas about worthwhile productivity.


Enjoy and work hard at new job and don't fizzle out / get (too) distracted, especially in the fist three months.

Got ditched by those arseholes at Easter. Probably partly as a result of failing to listen seriously to a virtual teenager who couldn’t string a sentence together without using the words “granular” and “iterate”. Treating this as a win though, partly because it was hopefully a nail in the coffin of the idea of wanting to work in that kind of organisation again, and partly because I’ve dumped thinly-disguised versions of the worst of them into a sitcom script / pitch which will either be appearing on your screens in the not-too-distant future or at least function as a highly rewarding cathartic self-help exercise.


Sort out house then sell it, and move on like a grown-up.

Lost a chunk of this year making this happen, including a final six weeks of solid crap clearance, trips to the tip, and general mental exhaustion.

Generally approach projects sequentially, rather than trying to do everything at once and never finishing anything.

Realistically I’m never ever going to figure out how to one thing at a time, but have got much better at moving things toward completion.

Refine / perfect the kids-fiction-into-phone-whilst-walking writing technique. Also organise / perfect the Chromebook / folding chair / writing rucksack. Finish kids novel. Finish NF book that's long overdue. Figure out next thing when they're both done.

Refined the former. Half that novel was done and polished by May but due to mix up agent only got it a few weeks ago and I need to sort out the second half. Reread it last week and I still think it’s great, so hopefully something will happen soon. Adult NF is still unfinished but that’s the editor’s fault and it’s due to come out in June so will get back on it post Margalef. Have another illustrated kids thing plus sitcom to finish so taking all this as a win.

Walk more / most days / run if lbs to shift or there's less time - this has been a big help in 2021

Arthritic heel scuppered this for a bit, but still managed a bit. More of this and some running required next year.

Spend the first six months focusing on work, organisation and training.
Spend the second six months trying to get away / trips with the kids / going climbing lots.

Lost so much of this year to house move and life admin that this has to be an unavoidable fail.

Climb with lots of people I've not climbed with before, climb at lots of new places. Not worry about grades*.

Because of previous I’m carrying this over. But definitely worrying less about grades (more about routes that just happen to be at certain grades.)

Facilitate daughter's aim to do lots of routes, and figure out some options for her first trad leads.

She did her first sport leads and was up for trad but we didn’t end up doing any.

*Privately carrying over last year's aims, but at a much reduced priority level...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Aussiegav on December 25, 2022, 11:04:08 pm
Poor show for 2022. Two injuries, one surgery & roller coaster last quarter.

Outside Climbing
30 or more days outside climbing.
Managed 17

Onsight 6c ❌
Onsight 6b+ ✅
10 easy Redpoints 6b to 6c+
Redpoint 7a in a day

Indoor climbing (Onsight/Flash)  :no: I know, who counts indoor routes?? Beggars can’t be choosers.
50x 6a =30
40x 6a+ = 25
30x 6b =5
20x 6b+ =3
5x 6c  (Redpoint) 1

Moonboards
Moonboard 2016 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2017 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2019 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

50 Degree Board
4x 6b or harder

Stopped going to the school after injury & surgery. Too brutal for recovery

Work
Starting building my coaching alongside my nursing.
Get 5 clients for coaching. ✅
Get 1 team for coaching.✅

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: andy moles on December 26, 2022, 10:50:18 am
Climbing:
1. Get more efficient on ice (if the opportunity actually arises in Scotland this year) hmm, maybe...I don't have any great ambitions here, I'd just like for guiding grade Vs to feel more casual than it does

2. Do more sport than usual, aim to improve % chance of flashing 7bs (taking inspiration from Ondra's high risk approach) and quick ascents of high 7s. Maybe another low 8 if one happens to inspire, but that's a lesser priority. Started the year well in Leonidio flashing up to (soft) 7b+ but didn't really follow up the rest of the year...only managed the same grade in the UK after a putting-the-clips-in go, and didn't do as much as I'd intended

3. Get back to a better place with trad, i.e. in a good headspace for on-sighting E5s. Hoping the sport approach will help with this, though also aware that trad mileage is often important. So make the trad days count. Again made a promising start to the summer with a handful of E5 on sight/flash but totally tailed off and lost motivation for all but the most sporty and least faffy types of trad


4. A bit of Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free stuff, because I really missed this during the pandemic. Finally in October did a trip to Val di Mello, taking in a couple of not-so-hard but satisfying classics and biting off a bit more than we could chew on Monte Qualido, then a brilliant day on the Teufelstalwand in Switz. So not loads but a green tick

5. A few good days of DWS. Zilch this year

6. If not enjoying it, don't force it, just do something else. This part I haven't struggled with lately, but aim to keep a good balance. Still struggle a bit to be fully accepting of dips in motivation. I do just do other things and climb less when I'm not into it, but climbing still seems to take up undue bandwidth

Non-climbing
1. Feel better/be healthier than last year, whatever that takes. Not sure what I've done right or whether I've thrown off some lurking post viral thing, but fingers crossed seem to be over the spells of unexplained fatigue that were getting me down intermittently over a couple of years

2. Decide where I want to live in a semi-permanent way, then take steps to do so. Shelved for financial reasons!

3. Get better at musical stuff. It's not hard from such a low starting point :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: seankenny on December 26, 2022, 01:25:26 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...

1. Still sick but better than I was in the summer. Can manage 3500 steps a day as long as there’s not too much other stress that day. Generally feel a bit more alive. I’ve developed tinnitus but try not to let it get to me too often.

I suppose I’m hopeful but I try to just take things week to week as anything else is too stressful. I’m doing a lot of meditation and breathwork which is a good thing to have incorporated into my life and which I wouldn’t have done otherwise.

2. Didn’t make it to the wall. Have stretched daily since March which I’m very pleased about, even if it’s only keeping decrepitude at bay!

3. No job - tried to do some tutoring work but it was too much. Supporting my partner as well as I can, that is a definite win for the year. Haven’t done any formal learning so my spoken Sinhala is the same but my understanding has definitely improved.

It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wellsy on December 26, 2022, 04:07:17 pm
I will say something I am pleased with is that I got badly injured, but I then rejabbed it, kept , and came back stronger. It didn't push me away from the discipline of bouldering that I love. Whatever failed aspirations I has for the year, on that front I did a good job

I also got therapy (hugely helpful) and a new job. I made a lot of life changes that I needed to make. So overall I'm proud of that!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Ged on December 26, 2022, 05:05:16 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...

1. Still sick but better than I was in the summer. Can manage 3500 steps a day as long as there’s not too much other stress that day. Generally feel a bit more alive. I’ve developed tinnitus but try not to let it get to me too often.

I suppose I’m hopeful but I try to just take things week to week as anything else is too stressful. I’m doing a lot of meditation and breathwork which is a good thing to have incorporated into my life and which I wouldn’t have done otherwise.

2. Didn’t make it to the wall. Have stretched daily since March which I’m very pleased about, even if it’s only keeping decrepitude at bay!

3. No job - tried to do some tutoring work but it was too much. Supporting my partner as well as I can, that is a definite win for the year. Haven’t done any formal learning so my spoken Sinhala is the same but my understanding has definitely improved.

It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.

Bloody hell Sean. That sounds like bad hand indeed, and one that you are dealing with in an incredibly impressive way. I hope your recovery continues, even if it's slower than you'd like. Here's to appreciating the small victories in life.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Wil on December 26, 2022, 05:34:50 pm

Trad:
Continue exploring new (to me) mountain crags in Scotland and be climbing at a decent level to get the most from them.
I probably didn't do quite as much as I imagined, but I had some real quality days out. Did Torro on Ben Nevis with Duncan, Steeple on the Shelterstone and most of the Long Reach at Etive Slabs before a slightly sketchy retreat in the rain. All new crags.

Sport:
The only real goal for next year is to tick Marlene at Dunkeld. I had a play this year and could climb all of the sections, it just needed a bit of work on stamina and recovery. I'm hoping that if walls stay open this time I'll be able to get this done quickly in the spring.
Came back from Ceuse thinking this would be a breeze, only to realise it's quite a different style. Got a bit frustrated, felt like I needed to step away and do a bit of training, after falling at the final bolt a few times. Did the 7b+ routes instead and then after ticking one of them thought I'd have a burn since someone's clips were in it. Did it easily and wondered why I'd struggled (as ever). Great route and I've only got Silk Purse left for next year.

Trip to Ceuse booked in from end of May for 2 weeks. I'd just like to be ticking some 7s without a big fuss really, moving well and enjoying good company would make for a great trip. :)
I spent the first few days wobbling above bolts, took a real punter fall where my leg went behind the rope and between 2 bolts, resulting in a massive bruise and some ropeburn, but it all came good in the end. I felt like I'd remembered how to try hard by the end of the trip and got up quite a few low 7s.
I also flashed a few 7bs in Chulilla later in the year.

Training:
I'd like to run at least 10km a week.
I say this every year and then don't do it, but I did cycle to work consistently for 6 months and have been running more. I know I can step out of the door and do 10km without it being a big deal, which is a nice level of fitness.

Fingerboarding - always good intentions and little action. Even once a fortnight would be progress.
Got fingerboard mounted and have actually used it. Need to be more regular

I've made more effort at the wall recently. I have a very low failure threshold indoors, so I'd like to make sure I attempt harder circuits and accept that I might not do any of the problems, trying to view it as every move done is training.
Stamina sessions at Ratho in the lead up to Ceuse.
Not as many stamina sessions as I could have, but I definitely tried a lot harder last winter.

Life:
Buy a house in the Central Belt.
Bought a place in Bridge of Allan, have been mowing the lawn ever since.
OH is desperate for a dog once we have a garden for it.
I thought we'd sort this in the autumn, but there's a bit too much work needed on the garden first. This is in progress.

Hopefully find work fulfilling and have a better idea of what it looks like long term. I've been working in care the last 18 months and I enjoy the job, but prospects seem limited, and I've been messed about and undervalued by employers which has really stressed me out. Have recently started a new role, so hopefully the new place is better in that regard.
From July: New place was a total shitshow, unable to even sort rotas properly, pay holiday pay, send payslips, pay the correct wage, monitor Covid testing and more. I also spent 6 months working nights, which I hadn't signed up for. Have just finished grievance procedure (after the second round when my office fobbed me off) and been paid my full rate for the missing wages. Haven't been offered any shifts since I raised a grievance...
After the above experience I put some time into researching care companies and looking for new jobs in that area. Sadly the problems seem to be industry-wide, so I've left the industry.
The good news is that while I was working those night shifts I studied university modules in Software Development and Machine Learning, funded by the Scottish Government. I've now got myself onto a bootcamp course In Software Engineering funded by a recruiter who will place me with a company once I've finished it. Fingers crossed it works out, at the very least their training seems to be very thorough and builds on what I've learnged so far.

Sort out better freelance working habits - both in terms of pitching, talking money and actually sitting down to get it done.
I'm not quite where I want to be, and starting in Software Dev will scupper my freelance work for a while, but my habits definitely improved.
The big one is to finally sort out the mess of a book I've been writing and get over my pure terror at sending it to people who might actually be able to give me useful and honest feedback!
At a frustrating point where I've finally got my head around what I'm aiming for, have written a lot, had positive conversations with agents, but need time to get initial chapters into a good state to send them, and now don't have time! I feel in a better place to pick away at this slowly now, I had a total mental block for a while.
I've got another series of Factor Two in the works, but I have no idea when it might be released at the moment. There are some good ideas on paper though and a few interviewees lined up.
Lots of ideas down, no real progress or time to make them at the moment.

This year has been pretty good, at least in terms of overall trajectory, despite the downs or frustration. Looking back from here it seems obvious how much I underestimated the impact of having yet another shit employer on my mental health. I've not had the best luck over the years with employers not paying properly, bullying staff and gaslighting me when I've raised issues. It's had a big impact on my writing and other freelance work, where I spend a huge amount of time second-guessing myself, and then end up too stressed to actually complete work. I feel in a much better place with this at the moment, although I don't actually have time to take on any freelance work! [Edit - The above employer issues don't relate to freelance work, they just leak into it. Freelance employers have been pretty good.]
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: andy moles on December 26, 2022, 05:57:30 pm

It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.

Crikey, your year puts most of our frustrations and failings in perspective a bit. Hope the next one is a lot better for you!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Stabbsy on December 28, 2022, 11:37:58 am
Mixed bag for my half year round-up.

A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.

Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.

Didn't make it till March - arrived in Feb, but nowhere near as early as the first one. My wife's back running again which is great, but room for improvement on not being a grumpy arse.

If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.

Started well, so bordering on green, but last 2 months have been a struggle to get much done due to eldest being ill, followed by me being ill then various holidays, so pretty much missed the last 6-8 weeks. Managed a fair amount of climbing in March/April and a few house and garden jobs.

2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).

Next to nowt - afternoon at Stanage and an evening at Burbage North is the combined total of 6 months roped climbing. Difficult to predict when I'll get out, so hard to line partners up and not let them down last minute hence bouldering/running have been easier to fit in.

3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).

My bouldering pyramid looks more like a cowpat than ever! Loads of stuff up to 7B and nothing harder. Felt like I was going well in April and ready to commit to some harder stuff, but then illness and getting out infrequently means I've lost what form I had and feel like I've got a long way to go to get back to a decent level.

4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.

Green for the road PBs, red for everything else. Amber overall seems fair.

Half marathon PB in January (1:18:30), 10-mile PB as part of the half marathon (59:29) and a 5-mile PB (29:23) as part of the local road league. All of this year's 5-mile courses were pretty hilly, so I've probably run faster for 5 miles as part of a flat 10k. Won the local road league for the V45 age group and was first V40 at a road 10k in February - came away with £50 in cash and £100 worth of kit, so pretty pleasing overall.

Fell season has been a shambles pretty much from start to finish. Ran well at first race of the year, then had 2 English Champs races where I've been ill and way off the pace followed by a third where I was running reasonably well before I picked up an injury in my foot on the first descent and had to hobble home. Decided to knock the rest of the series on the head and focus on road stuff for a couple of months.
 

Giving up on the idea of getting anything more done this year as I've probably got/had Covid - wife tested positive on the 23rd, I started feeling bad on the 24th. The kids now probably have it so unlikely to leave the house for another day or so and then build back up to normality.

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.
Did pretty well overall - climbed and ran consistently without taking the piss and leaving my wife with the kids all the time. Managed to do a few bits of redecorating/reorganising, fixed the front garden fence and got people in to replace the decking. Also found the return to work a bit less stressful than after the first one - probably helped by maintaining contact with my team every week.

2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).
Realistically this wasn't an option this year given other commitments. Snatched a few days when opportunities arose, but my head wasn't really in it. Only days out with a rope in the second half were a great day up on Dovestone Tor and a busy day at Masson Lees.

3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).
 Usual story of starting well and then drifting back into volume ticking. That's not to say I didn't enjoy my time out - much as there's harder things I want to try, my brain values mileage and movement when I have limited time.

4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.
 I'll go with green despite the abysmal showing at the English Champs! Bookended the year with two PBs on the road - 1:18:30 half marathon in January and 36:13 10k (1 second improvement!) in December. No local age category wins on the fells (2nd V40 at Shelf Moor some way behind Ben Tetler was my best effort), but won the local 5-mile league for V45s and won the V40 prize at a 10k in Manchester. Ran pretty well at the national fell relays to finish 8th V40s with my club. Most importantly, refound the love of running after 4 or 5 months of going through the motions.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: jwi on December 28, 2022, 01:23:41 pm
1. Keep improving my sport climbing capabilities at a sufficiently glacial pace to not get injured. This would be achieved if I redpoint a hard 8b+ or onsighted several 7c+s in say a month.

No. I onsighted two 8as in the spring, but both felt definitely 8a on paper only. I did one 7c+ onsight in the autumn, again very sceptical about the grade. I spend most of my time in the autumn on an 8b+ extension of a classic 8a+, my best attempt ended on the last boulder problem. By my reckoning it is 8b/b+ to this point, and hard 8b+ to the top. I did the first pitch 2-3 times per session, and I am frankly a bit fed up with doing this over and over again... 

2a For the redpoint part: get ever so slightly stronger at bouldering.
OR
2b. For the onsight part: increase my endurance on at least one benchmark.

Hard to say without doing any actual bouldering, only plastic. But I feel like my bouldering on plastic has improved a tiny bit. My endurance was pretty decent in the spring but not better than previous benchmarks.

3. Improve flexibility

No.

4. Get better at pullups and rows. Measure before and after each cycle.

No. Quite the opposite actually. Weaker than ever on pullups.

5. Get stronger fingers. As above

Got a tiny bit stronger in half crimp in the beginning of the season, lost it, but got a tiny bit stronger on crimps towards the end of the year, also fleetingly, I suspect.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2022, 02:09:28 pm
1. Stay alive and try to find something worth living for
Christ. Don't know how to assess this one. Technically Yes but have been a lot closer to it being No than is comfortable, for the first part. The second part is a work in progress and partly on hold until things ease.
Quote
2. Try to stay active enough not to deteriorate further.
Gonna give myself a "sorta" for this one as I have stayed reasonably active, but have had a slight deterioration overall in fitness and strength due to stuff getting in the way of pushing hard enough.
Quote
3. Keep pushing to stay in contact with friends, climbing partners, and maintain social life.
Yes for effort, sorta for effectiveness (including having the right tools to work with in the first place). It's a slow, random, process that's quite a challenge when one is pretty fragile.
Quote
4. Try to be careful enough to heal elbows a bit more.
Sorta. I did start focusing more on easy volume and rehab, and I think overall there has been progress and reasonable management, but it's still a few months behind what would be more comfortable.
Quote
5. See 1.
See answer to 1.


Quite surprised it's not all red or unanswered tbh. But there's enough "sortas" where there has been some maintenance at least.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Fultonius on December 28, 2022, 02:49:39 pm
Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.

After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.

I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.

I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical), and give me some space to:

  • Train
  • Start / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get done
  • Develop my freelance network
  • Get better at Sea-Kayaking with OH,
  • Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)
  • Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there.
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron.
> Start working Reqiuem
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.


Tick
Very nearly finished the first "big" project, a shoe rack/bench for the hallway (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tKx5QpH_FMZVi4GvKSZEPv68CkNwx4CqY9z59upXjLSZZszPrsVCtXuGCco5gQ4_UG1SYukC1YLuBWjzQR0Va9Kn_ScyaC9QzxQip0uOTgdo8haqKyx7VWoMKrQEDgUS5r65WeVyXdp83b5CEf19JWVfup3kqvPbO9yaVbHZjgoh8jZS6KwGoGFNx8WiNdwgp3t51THeNKd8pQR9ZREbPgUCBRk2wtmEwoFSNsiYwYeMwNud5hL6HUrAXV9br4-jLw7ONUDLHLeRvleW2PK4nFSVUDUH08KsP1q-InUnxKtbwAnm0KohPHuoF3msNhC5yQuHfkW4mxDL35BTcT_oqYJxAzUs8HjzBUcPXjowMowiMOFHW2z1urR4TcjeE0mY_gPaDoFgXCm7VbEW_OnLXNisERjQGzkEjYavdLgg36KqFp3N3grgta9jCoXm2gTrPTY1E6vpSpea08-Do5NNCGA6e48X6K6iUHyQ_e4HmbE3OqNlcXzj-qvrFpddce7_hMD7ZkWYMl7MkuAbpS4Dv9aBwEq6gboVev5gvTGqCX6_hLNY4bwtvLi8Pe1aGPpa4sc-wpjezNuZRD33W4G4h8mSnSOIomYlLsxpyTU7RPet9qU0BAfRel5b740oVL46DVLa4SKW-DpvwkKcJrE4QREsuZCxtE_TjzmaJSGyljs_EFolzIOqan-iam1JYgYSb4AX_bSRT-5urcMmzD1sj_fEBpk_eJWLNx1hvf94g1EWdKOzfP1RHbxT-xaJunnmqD_hXrw30em033RAgVW_Cv4TotCHllqGpOJn6AJKylyP2qXtaWkRzXqMWbwh1qq-ZSKfe8eJl0SlvTNn3eHIfIfGRnh8ONm_6X75kEgIkqJ0mbhXq74f1xJ0OInM5V8tZJ9z9lEPfhZBSiBH2uuag84mRQSvLS87ZQhGiAnXoK4uFw=w1516-h683-no?authuser=0)- all hand-cut joints, trying out new new like castle/shiro joints. Lot of work and srill making small mistakes, but on the whole loving my time down there (boosted by getting a wee erbauer heater (https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bgp2108-25-freestanding-or-portable-ptc-workshop-heater-2500w/639FV?tc=WT4&ds_kid=92700055281954511&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAiA76-dBhByEiwAA0_s9ckzAMYfV1Y-bC0l2GbqT9v-oS9DXGs5xiFrNUjdAXK7fhjvcS9ShhoCdBUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)) I think I've realised one aspect of woodwork that I really enjoy - I can basically take every project to the limit of my abilities and desire for perfection with no need for compromise. That's not to say it's perfect, just that I find constant compromise at work challenging (budgets, timescales, expectations etc.) so here's a free space to do it as I want. Nice.
In progress, but time will tell how sustainable it ends up.
Had a great weekend trip with a guide wiht an overnight camp.All pretty mellow, but a good time and learned a fair bit. Probably need to learn self-rescue next,
Plans changed Went to the Bugaboos in August, climbed a load of great routes including one of the final ascents of Sunshine Crack  :'( - it just fell down. :great: Really should write a trip report about that some time...

Finally got the keys! But only just, so not been out to assess/start planning the work required yet.
[/list]

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there. Tried Axiom, figured most of it out first day but struggled on one move. Ended up really enjoying Endurance at Dumby, 8 sessions in and been very VERY close a few times. Enjoying the process and itching to get on it in the spring.
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron. One done, one to go - no change there...
> Start working Reqiuem Not been on it yet.
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada Didn't happen, but mate is keen for a week on it next year at some point.
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?) Barely been bouldering, just more psyched on trad and sport just now. That said, did have a good ession on the new Dubh Lic Boulders and got close on Feast for Croes 7B https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dubh-lic_boulders-28920/a_feast_for_croes_stand-629394 so will need to get back (no update since mid-year)

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there. Just dismantled it for now, and built a big carpenter's workbench instead.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.  Not terrible, but definitely some wear. Apparently the old PCL repair is still looking tight.


As a more general summary... Quitting my job was 100% the right decision. I'm still not entirely sure where it will take me, but almost everything I've done work wise has been more fulfilling and less stressful. My 1-man consultancy hasn't fully kicked off yet, but I've had plenty fill-in freelance, a few leads and a couple of possible longer term consultancy contracts on the cards next year. Dealing ok with variable income and still enjoying my time off without stressing about "should I be working...".

Climbing wise, no great gains this year, but getting close to nudging my personal limit on sport and had some fun trips away with equal PB onsights despite only having a week notice of the trip...  Been quite enjoying trying to gradually increase by base endurance while keeping my strength and power up at ok levels. Less UK trad than I would have liked, but having a few sport projects kicking about meant that my attention kept being drawn to them. Big win this year was finding out that Tunnel Wall is a good mid-summer crag - who knew!

I've had a healthy run up to Christmas and training was going in the right direction for a Costa Blanca trip on 31st....which now hangs in the balance as I tried to chop my finger off on the aforementioned woodwork project....
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: 36chambers on December 29, 2022, 12:03:33 pm

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list [4, felt like I barely climbed on Yorkshire grit this year]
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. [developed some worrying DIP knuckle issues this year, so I spent a lot of time doing three finger pick ups for rehab. My pick up scores has increased plenty but haven't tested it on the BM2K]
- 5 eights [one legit (3 on paper...), I can only think of 3 climbs that I tried for more than two sessions, which is a really poor effort]
- 5 new UK crags [7]
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s [3 for about an average of 15 minutes each...]
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes [4. then sacked off trying hard over summer]
- 5 off the highball list [1. didn't pull onto any more, poor effort]
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups) [4, including one that's actually worthwhile!]
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays) [6. Great year for this]
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects [0, sacked off projecting anything on the board and ended up removing most the hard/tweaky holds]
- 5 training room PBs [Various things, although a few are technically more benchmarks than PBs. I got a weight pin this year and I've been really enjoying the competitive pick up scenes, so loads of new and improved scores from that. Although Footwork currently holds the LH house record :(. After a pick up session, I pulled onto the BM2K low mid rung and managed 15 seconds on my RH, 5 seconds on my previous PB (likely all down to warming up effectively, but whatever). Got endless scores to try and improve upon next year.]
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts. [tick for bench and squat, was hoping to bump the DL this month, but my lower back is not doing too well at the moment]


wildcard lifetime goal [tick]
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022) [Le Vent dans la Plaine went down first day of my trip in April (so a big fat yyfy!). It was particularly fortunate as it was 20+ degrees for the rest of the trip. Tried a few others in the heat, which all felt doable, even punted off the end of one of them. I've always considered Font my main testing ground for general progress and therefore matching grades by doing them there always feels just as much a milestone as doing a given grade for the first time.]

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again). [Not quite, started the year well, then nursing injuries over the summer, and now slowly getting back into it. Had a trip to Albarracin recently which was great for the ego though.]
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Duncan campbell on December 29, 2022, 12:21:38 pm
What a difference a year makes!

Feeling much better but still been kind of wary about setting any goals. However it’s not like I don’t have any may as well set my stall out.

I definitely feel like I am on an upward trajectory at the moment so my main aim is to continue on the same path of self acceptance, self love and appreciation for what I have. In the past year I also aimed to have more fun and I wish to continue this into 2022 (and beyond).

whilst I didn’t have loads of therapy do loads of mindfulness this year, I was way more conscious of my mental health and caught myself before I fell too far into negative thought cycles.

Pretty happy with that though the journey is obviously never over.

The above are my main goals and any goals I state below are secondary to these. If trying to achieve one is contradictory to maintaining good mental health then I hope I will drop it.

Climbing

Never sure whether highly specific or vague is the way to go. I’ll try and hit both.

In no particular order...

More E6 attempts from the ground.
Specifically; LOTF, Suicide blonde, Big in America, Pulsebeat, Sixpence, Ghost Train, Grezelda.



Be good to regain my previous overall trad form.

Ummm tried one E6 at the end of a trip to the burren when I was 7th day on and it was just coming into the sun on a hot day. Maybe could have had another go but was conscious of incoming tide blocking the escape route and it was hot. Have it a good go but think I would have run out of medium wires above the crux so maybe was lucky I didn’t get through!

Did a load of E5s this year but still not quite back in trad form… Pabbay trip I did some bits but was definitely struggling with confidence to get on things.

More ~8a sport.

The Groove or Urgent Action would be ace. Zoolook and soft option being others I’m keen for.

Did one definite 8a - Shine On at the Diamond, tried Statement a bit but never had enough consistency on it having 3 sessions spread out a bit too much. Felt like if I had had a few more closer to last session I might have got it as felt good on it.

Also did Dark Stranger which gets 8a on UKC but is probably 7c+

Visit some new crags; Yew cogar, trow Gill.

color=red] Nope barely climbed in Yorkshire this year [/color]

Have a tickle at an 8b? Not too sure which one id try ...

Nope had 2 goes up the Brute with Flo but that was more to try hard moves than try an 8b. Never felt the form this year for that sort of thing

Boulder more 7B+s sneak a 7C out? []Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

Did Pit and the Pendulum at Milestone in the Ogwen. Not the world’s best problem but did it quite quickly and it’s one of those hard problems I’ve always known about. I enjoyed the ratty nature of it too. Did have a period of feeling good bouldering which was nice no 7Cs but think will try and commit to bouldering next winter

Life

Finish house ASAP so fun can resume. (But do a good job)

House jobs are never ending but certainly got it to a good point by March and then have continued to tick off jobs after that at a slower pace. Pretty happy with what I’ve done

Switch to part time work. Whether that is at this company or back on the ropes. I don’t care which as long as I’m not working 5 days a week, 47 weeks of the year.

Back on the ropes, and have managed to work pretty much whenever I want and guy in charge of rope access team totally chill when I tell him I’m unavailable
Don’t fuck up the amazing thing I have just found myself hopefully on the verge of getting into. (Don’t want to jinx it). If it doesn’t work out don’t lose myself in process.

YYFY well psyched to be with Flo, we have really similar energy levels, psyche for climbing, similar interests. Just great scenes.


Hope 2022 is a good one for everyone

All in all a good year! Not a year I climbed any PBs but felt like considering I did little climbing or trained for 6 months my base level
of 8a and E5 isn’t too bad. By the time I did the 7B+ I had certainly resumed training and had a full 6 months of climbing behind me.

The biggest win though was continuing to be aware of my mental health and creating a good relationship with Flo.  :beer2:
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on December 29, 2022, 05:06:06 pm
Saw this pop up and realised that I'd not done one yet...

Last year's were probably a bit over ambitious looking back at them especially considering that my #1 goal was not to get injured and it turms out I was already nursing a pretty big one (albiet managing it...)
Quote
1. Not get injured Failed as already was!
2. F7c again Didn't even get on one!
3. More than one good trad day (i.e. good/classic routes E1 - E4)  :2thumbsup:
4. Make it to Kalymnos in October again  :2thumbsup:
4a. Get on Ageallis or another awesome looking F7c
5. F7a+/7b onsight again Nope F7a onsight and F7a+/F7b TR Flash was as good as it got!
6. 7A bloc if I can ever be arsed to go bouldering again  :2thumbsup:
7. Eatswood Traverse (wildcard!) Didn't even try - Shoulder wouldn't like the start!
8. Find and get on F8a project for 2022 Didn't try!

So this year I'll be a bit more conservative:

Climbing
1. More F7b's
2. F7b+
3. Get on inspiring F7c, F7c+ or F8a as project
4. Stay out of hospital (i.e. condition shoulder enough to not warrant surgery)
5. Spain in March
6. Kalymnos in October
7. At least one classic trad day E2-E5
8. At least one decent day bouldering high 6's and/or low 7's

Life
1. Build garden cabin/office
2. Get more guaranteed work - being self employed is great but sometimes feels like I'm chasing my tail so guaranteed hrs would be ace
3. Take kids away on a memorable trip (maybe take them on a multipitch)

And it was written...

So, it's that time of year again - looking back on the previous 12 months of disappointment... Here goes:
 
Climbing
1. More F7b's - Whoop Whoop! Did more than the year before and even got a F7a+ onsight so yay!
2. F7b+ - Didn't even try (one of the F7b's did used to get F7c but that hardly counts!)
3. Get on inspiring F7c, F7c+ or F8a as project - had planned to get back on Virgin King but never found the time
4. Stay out of hospital (i.e. condition shoulder enough to not warrant surgery) - YYFY! Shoulder is fine, almost daily conditioning but feels pretty good all things considered
5. Spain in March - Tick!
6. Kalymnos in October - Tick!
7. At least one classic trad day E2-E5 - Not Quite but did do La Demande in The Verdon and it felt more trad than most of High Tor  :lol:
8. At least one decent day bouldering high 6's and/or low 7's - One spring day @ Baslow and a summer afternoon at Slipstones - Nowt above 6C but fills the brief  :whistle:

Life
1. Build garden cabin/office - Tick
2. Get more guaranteed work - being self employed is great but sometimes feels like I'm chasing my tail so guaranteed hrs would be ace - Tick! Probably the bigest one of the year - working for a brilliant company full of like-minded folk, ace!
3. Take kids away on a memorable trip (maybe take them on a multipitch) - Tick! Took boy up Tryffan (when he was still talking to me) and girl sea kyaking around Lands End!

Wow there's more green there than expected! Looking at the areas that were missed it looks like I just need to get on harder things as you can't do them if you don't even try!

Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: andy moles on December 29, 2022, 06:36:17 pm
5. A few good days of DWS. Zilch this year

Self-correction, the Best of 2022 thread reminded me that I did have one fun day on Mingulay.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: Footwork on December 30, 2022, 06:08:49 pm
Aims for 2022!

1. Spend more time developing whilst I didn't manage to do the main projects, I did spend a lot of time searching and trying various new things. A lot of trips where I basically took the pads for a long walk. There are 3 or 4 things I would really like to do this year
2. Five routes off the sport list took me about 2 months to get rid of covid early in the year and never really got going. Only managed a handful of trips out.
3. More trad and highballing than 2021(a lot more)  not so much on the highballing but went to Lofoten with cls. Incredible scenes. Did 40 pitches of climbing plus some days out at Ilkley, Chevin and Millstone to try and prep. I was not prepped
4. Consistently burn off Will Hunt on any head to head on the board and pick ups, Will didn't stand a chance. He has however ticked one or two things I didn't manage, but only because he went back for another session
5. Get something big booked in the diary see Norway. Also got married
6. More trips with mates Not as many as I would have liked. I think only one weekend away :-\

Weird year. One of the best climbing trips I've been on but then also not much climbing done and a pitiful bouldering year on paper. It's been a big year though.

Good luck everyone
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: shark on December 30, 2022, 07:10:56 pm
Quote

Overall in 2022 I want to enjoy my climbing more ✅and tick something that’s hard for me.❌

Things I’ll do differently this year.
- No limit projecting when it’s too warm/humid as it’s demotivating ✅
- Drop my grade in the summer ✅
- Travel more ✅
- Resume trad climbing (still aspire to onsight an E6 at some point so need to start building back into it) ✅

If year pans out well it will include:

Jan: 3 week trip to Spain with Duncan leaving on Friday 🤞✅ (Good weather, great crag but with hindsight should have got on steeper routes)
Feb: Focus on Bens without kneebars ✅
Mar/April: Malham season. Oak/Mescalito
❌(just one day but heart wasn’t in it)
April/May: Host a yank I hit it off with  n Chulilla and weather permitting take him on a South West sea cliff tour❌ (unfortunately Jerry cried off to have some voodoo medicine operation)
Summer: Van trip to Briancon area with Sonia ✅ (actually took car as had Tommy and Poppy and even better Rob and Rach Barker stayed with us)
Autumn: Tor or Malham projecting ✅
November: Red River Gorge (be fit for it this time)✅

Lots of ticks but not of the hard redpoint variety which I value most. Enjoyed myself too much. Did some outstanding routes, travelled lots and got to tick my first E5 and onsight my first 7b+ in about 5/6 years. Some of the routes I did are are all time high points in terms of quality notably Swedish Fish at Red River Gorge, the top pitch of the Skull on Cyrn Las, Swordfish in Pembroke and Sula on Mingulay. 
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: dunnyg on December 31, 2022, 01:48:27 pm
1. Try an E5
Didn't even pull on one. Did do a soft(?) E4 at Baildon on headpoint.

2. Repeat Sean's route
Put some stakes in and had 1 session on it with some friends. Had a nice time, and it felt absolutely nails. One very hard move. Might have another look after work this year. Strong Sean!

3. Climb something >300m long
Not sure I even managed a multipitch!

4. Onsight 6c
Overdue at trollers. Boulder problem into f5.

5. Climb 7a
Managed 3, all in a sessions, except angelic upstart, which I had a session on about 10 years ago and managed after a top rope this time! Ticking off unfinished business is good. A trip up the jim grin showed me my stamina needs improvement to get on the less bouldery routes though...

6. Fall off a sport route when going full beans
Didn't fall off, but tried hard on new mystique and angelic upstart. Not "flow state" but not bad

7. Climb on Gimmer and/or Scafell
Usual partner had long covid which left me bouldering most of the year

7.5 Climb a multipitch E1
Nope

8. Don't get injured
Tweaked my finger on pinky in January

9. Tick off something(s) from the yorkshire 3* tick list.
Wombling wall at baildon, where I used a microtraxion (amazing) to headpoint it. Not sure it is E4, but enjoyable climbing either way. Not sure it is 3* either (or 2...). I also got up illegitemate crack at Ilkley which deserves its starts! Went out with a new partner and had a great time on this. Intimidating for VS but excellent crack climbing. If you haven't done it go do it! Always nice to climbing with new psyched people too.

10. Climb on a sea cliff
Trip to pembroke, but no climbing as usual partner sofa bound. Thought about some soloing, but settled for surf (most excellent!) and a boulder at plumstone mountain instead...

11. Do some exploratory development. Having a trek in and failing counts!
 Not this year. Still have some spots awaiting the right conditions and at least one to scout out.

12. Go on some decent adventures (climbing or otherwise). Uncertainty in outcome required, suffering optional.
Climbing wise, not really, but had a solid first 6 months of the year caving. Plenty of uncertainty in outcome, and a reasonabe amount of suffering. Highlights include; doing dow-prov and getting to the bit I recognised (gypsum trav) and knowing the entrance was close, happily floating along through ducks after several hours of dragging batteries along crawls followed by lying on the surface in the sun after fully bonking in the entrance series, rigging my first cave, first solo trip, and taking dad down Dow. Hopefully more above (and below) ground adventures in the new year.

13. Make use of local rock and board for training
Board has been well used. A little less so in the last couple of months due to work/life. Some jugs arrived yesterday so going to try and get some form of circuits on there to mix up the intensity a bit too.

Bonus aim was to go to 5 new crags this year, which was successful, mostly south lakes lime bouldering, but also had a trip to craig-y-longridge and some local moorland esoterica (shooting party in situ). I get so psyched when I go to a new crag. I love climbing everything I can. Usually means I don't push my limit or only have a few goes, but had a great day with a mate up at newbiggin crag zipping round and pulling on everything I could find. Great stuff.


Stay positive about the guts. Allez.
Found some drugs that work, meaning fully functioning for the last 8 months.

To summarise: Had loads of non-bouldering goals and bouldered/caved for most of the year, due to my and my parters health/wedding/building/new job.

Reasonable use of a year given the circumstances. Bouldering highlights will have to be in the best of thread...
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: duncan on December 31, 2022, 04:19:35 pm
Overall a reasonable mix of colours, though the most specific and most ambitious are an undiluted red.

Climbing
1. Try hard more often. In the last three or four years I’ve shied away from pushing myself, especially on trad., defaulting to mileage days which are fun and sociable but I won't be remembering in 10 years time. This has been necessary at times due to not feeling very mentally robust and influenced by not trusting my body after dislocating my shoulder in 2017. There is a balance to find between pushing myself and pressuring myself but I think I could now do a bit more of the former. Hard to be SMART about this...
Still a work in progress. I did hardly any sport climbing which was what I particularly had in my mind. I did push myself to onsight a 7a in Ceuse and really enjoyed it. Overall, I am still doing rather a lot of grabbing gear instead of going for it. Did not fall off a trad. route all year. One to roll over to 2023.


2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland/) ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland (https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotland/)).
Had a couple of short but great trips to Scotland with Wil. Did Torro as my first rock route on Ben Nevis on an absolutely glorious day. Only wish I had had a little more oomph for another that day!

3. 7b+
Didn't even try one. Everything was going in the right direction to give one a real go on the Ceuse trip, then I had leg infection which floored me. Summer was far too hot to sport climb and as soon as conditions improved I was single-parenting again and had acquired a wrist tweak.

4. E5 (or at least more than E2...).
At least tried a couple of E5s but hadn’t really established the base of E3/4s and/or 7a onsights. Did lots of great E2s but this was exactly what I said I shouldn't be doing...

Life
1: Redecorate home, it’s looking pretty shabby.   
Repainted and had a new boiler installed (timely).   
Bathroom and kitchen refitting still works in progress.

2: Take advantage of the many positive aspects of living in London. 
The relaxing of covid restrictions has helped and I’ve accepted I’m going to be in London for a while. Have been to some great live music events of many varieties. The start of the ENO Ring Cycle was a bit of a disappointment but there have been lots of other really memorable concerts. 

3: Sort out my finances 
A work in progress. The de facto 15% increase in cost of my living this year has been a bit of a shock so a little more cash would come in handy. I feel I'd still enjoy working as a very part-time hands-on physio. but reviving my professional qualification would be a PITA.

4: Make a decent fist of being a dad, son and husband. 
We’re all still talking.



Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: seankenny on December 31, 2022, 05:26:08 pm

It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.

Crikey, your year puts most of our frustrations and failings in perspective a bit. Hope the next one is a lot better for you!

Thanks for the kind words Andy (and Ged). All I want is to get this life changing shit out of the way so I can enjoy the same sorts of frustrations and failings as everyone else…!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: cheque on December 31, 2022, 08:13:18 pm
Respect to everyone who does this thread, not just for setting and ticking your own goals but also for keeping everyone else motivated. It’s mad how helpful I find it as a tool to keep me on track.  :icon_beerchug:


Lower body stretching as a first priority... 240 days at least.

Just done todays so 242 days, just over 2/3rds of the year :dance1:. Proud of this- I feel like an less dedicated climber would have sacked it off after a few weeks and just continued to be like “Hurhur I’m so inflexible”. I’m not amazingly flexible now but the fact I was surprised to see that I’d set this as first priority reflects how much of a difference it’s made- for the first time since my accident I’ve felt like my general mobility hasn’t limited me while climbing in the latter part of this year.


fingerboard twice a week in Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec and at least once a week March & Oct.

Yep. 48 sessions total so three fewer than last year (and not quite in these monthly boundaries) but still within target. Similar to the stretching one I don’t have fingers of steel but at no point in 2022 did I feel like my fingers were holding me back and I’m pleased that I’ve kept chipping away at it. Also learnt new ways to vary my sessions from my physio that help keep imbalances in check rather than making them worse.

Tick remaining pre-injury strength PBs.
Just one- 2BW deadlift at a heavier “BW” than ten years ago.  :strongbench:. See below.

Repeat or better all my other PBs.
Nope, did fewer than last year. Made rapid inroads at the start of the year but becoming a full-time carer (thankfully briefly) meant training took more of a maintenance role from mid-February onwards. By the time autumn rolled round I’d developed a bit of a shoulder impingement that stopped me doing some of them and realised that my biggest weakness was fitness so physio-directed rehab and autobelay sessions took both time and energy away from ticking these.

Climb in the E-grades again. I’ll be happy with an E1 so that’s the minimum. Ideally let’s say… 6.
Did two E1s. Neither high in the grade but neither felt desperate so pretty confidence-building.

Try routes with roofs in. This is the most quantifiable way I can come up with to say “climb out of my comfort zone”. Actually I can think of another, I just don’t want to type it- take at least one, ideally 5 or more trad leader falls.

Forgot all about the roofs bit  :lol: I did lead some roofs though but nothing hard (toughest was The Owl in Boulder Canyon which was ace but probably only VS 5a. I think I fell off three or four times this year but none was anything like a whipper. I don’t think this aim was really a great way to address my head problems really.

South-West trip.

Nope. Didn’t get anyone else interested in overnight climbing trips in the UK but didn’t really try to either.

Climb the Devil’s Tower.

Twice.  ;D

Complete my photo project and, linked to that, take a camera out every time I go climbing.

Took a full-frame camera out every single time I went climbing and got loads of good photos I wouldn’t have got otherwise. I didn’t quite get the variety of pictures I needed to complete my project though- with hindsight I underestimated it.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: dunnyg on December 31, 2022, 09:24:07 pm
Devil's tower is on my life list. One day when I can get out there I may pester you for beta... Epic job on the stretching too!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: monkoffunk on January 01, 2023, 10:41:33 pm
I was planning on doing this at the end of January after a bit of time to consider some plans post exam year.

Unfortunately I dislocated my patella yesterday walking across my bedroom of all things.

That’s slightly altered the start of my year but anyway few goals for this year:

1. Do a ton of physio
2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now.
3. Climb again.
4. Especially on rock…
5. Sort out home training facilities.
6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.

Agree very much with above, I’m impressed by everyone I meet right now keeping on going through some tough times, and puts my own injuries etc into perspective.

Here’s how much year is going in brief:

Certainly much happier in general after 2021 the year of exam revision. So good to draw a line under all of that. Lots of areas I could improve on still, but I’m more content despite not doing much on paper.

For the goals:

1. Physio - kept this going pretty well until I could run again and then has tailed off somewhat. Need to improve this as the reason my knee dislocated again was in some part due to pre-existing muscle imbalances, it wasn’t just about rehabbing this injury.

2. Restart running - have done this sooner than the physios said despite there still being some discrepancy in leg strength, but needed to for sanity. Have signed up for Bournemouth half marathon again now, so do have a specific goal. My pace is still way off pre knee so I doubt any PBs will be set, but I have some time before October to at least get up to the distance.

3. Climb again. I’ve done this! (Not enough, but some)

4. Especially on rock. Climbed down in Swanage once, felt unbelievable unfit but was still fun. Felt really strange finding 6a absolutely nails and not being able to do moves on a 7a, but I didn’t have expectations and was just great being on rock. Just back from first Font trip post pandemic which was also great. Repeated a 6C I had done some years ago in a couple of goes and some circuits in the heat which was fun. Had a crack at the sit to Danger Majeur at Sabots, couldn’t get off the floor, but other than that didn’t feel far off, so psyched for next time!

5. Haven’t built home wall yet, but living arrangements still somewhat fluid. Have some home gym stuff.

6. Am sticking with the habit tracker pretty well to kept some consistency going with the various things I’d like to do better (yoga, sleep, etc). Will aim to do better second half of year!

Making one of my few appearances of the year to revisit these goals!

Also psyched to see how others have done and put my own efforts/challenges into perspective.

1. Do a ton of physio
Did enough that patella is staying located in its correct location despite engaging in further laundry.

2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now.  
Ran the Bournemouth half, despite  not being anywhere near fitness required. Not worst time, but way off PB. Still was probably toughest mentally to keep going and not stop so was good to do for sure.

3. Climb again.
Yep!

4. Especially on rock…  
Good to get out a few times, didn’t really have any goals in mind but nice to get back up to at least one 7a after starting the year almost shut down on 6a!

 5. Sort out home training facilities.  
To be honest main issue has been not using what I have enough rather than not having the best stuff. Home wall can wait a bit!

6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.
Have done this better! Just helps to help on top of things, both stuff I want to do like yoga, and stuff I don’t like excessive screen time or whatever. Room for improvement as with anything, but I think I did the more weeks than year before and keeps some sense of control.
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: JohnM on January 02, 2023, 03:16:06 pm
Time to set the 2022 goals. Some are dependent on injuries and other factors out of my control but even a couple of things off the list will make for a good year!

Climbing

1. Fix my right elbow.
2. Finish Der Schwarzer Schwann (8c).
3. Finish some 8a-8bs I have tried in Tirol - Particularly Rose der Zeit (8a+).
4. Climb on some sport sandstone (NRG, RRG or Taipan if it opens again).
5. Go bouldering outdoors again.

Running/Cycling/Fishing/Skiing

1. Fix my ankle and knee tendonitis (or at least keep it at bay).
2. Do a ski x-country marathon.
3. Finish one or more of - Bob Graham Round, Eiger Ultra, an Everesting, UTMB (dependent on entry lottery), Dragon's Back Race (dependent on not getting in UTMB and getting a place via the waiting list), run 3000km.
4. A nice cycle tour (2-3 days).
5. Catch a 20lb+ pike.

Misc./life

1. Sleep more/better.
2. Drink less.
3. Get less stressed about work + work less (maybe try and take Q4 off work).
4. Learn more French.

Climbing

1. Fix my right elbow.
It seems fine recently but probably due to a lack of volume than any specific rehab I did.
2. Finish Der Schwarzer Schwann (8c).
Only had one session. Crux 1 felt easier when I eventually did it. I couldn't get near crux 2.
3. Finish some 8a-8bs I have tried in Tirol - Particularly Rose der Zeit (8a+).
Not really. I did a really cool 8a (Chiquita) I had not done before and got close to a couple of 8bs but I left it too late in the year to get back into shape and everything got too cold/wet.
4. Climb on some sport sandstone (NRG, RRG or Taipan if it opens again).
Didn't make it over to Oz in the end and worked all of Q4.
5. Go bouldering outdoors again.
Don't think I got out bouldering once.

Running/Cycling/Fishing/Skiing

1. Fix my ankle and knee tendonitis (or at least keep it at bay).
Don't remember having ankle tendonitis and the knee never got too bad all year. I strained my mcl in a hyper-extended drop knee in Misja Pec though which has been bad for climbing this year but didn't really affect running.
2. Do a ski x-country marathon.
Attempted one in Queryas but it was at altitude, on solid ice and had way too much elevation gain so we gave up after 30km.
3. Finish one or more of - Bob Graham Round, Eiger Ultra, an Everesting, UTMB (dependent on entry lottery), Dragon's Back Race (dependent on not getting in UTMB and getting a place via the waiting list), run 3000km
Finished all my running goals this year including the Bob Graham, Dragon's Back and crossed the 3000km mark on the last day of the year. I was really happy to finish the Bob Graham and love being out for long days in some of my favourite mountains. Inevitably, my climbing suffered this year though, which was always going to be the case if I was working full time as well, but it was worth the sacrifice for one year.
4. A nice cycle tour (2-3 days).
Didn't do any multi-day tours this year.
5. Catch a 20lb+ pike.
Nope. The biggest was about 15lbs from Lake Bled in the Autumn.

Misc./life

1. Sleep more/better.
I don't measure it but I get the impression I slept a lot better over all.
2. Drink less.
Meh. Probably not much less.
3. Get less stressed about work + work less (maybe try and take Q4 off work).
Again meh! I still worked a lot more than I would have liked and got stressed about it!
4. Learn more French.
I did learn more French but it was sporadic.


Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: spalmer on January 03, 2023, 11:06:03 am
1. Find a good balance between fatherhood and climbing.
Confirmed with wife. Reducing hours at work to spend with the baby means we have loads of time together. Had loads of outdoor sessions (some with the baby) so not felt I’ve missed out on much.

2. 5 7Cs with at least one on grit.
16 7C or above, although only one on grit! Also lost 6 months to injury/illness so massively beat expectations here.

3. Touch my toes (improve hamstring flexibility)
So I put this down as I was hoping it would help manage a back injury. I managed to “touch my toes” in January, which didn’t help in the slightest. MRI showed all the stretching in the world won’t help, so I’ll join the long NHS waiting list to sort this out. Back climbing again for now though.

4. At least one weekend away to NW/Lakes.
Didn’t climb in either due to injury. Would have had at least one weekend if not.

5. Climb abroad with family.
Amazing 2 months in Sweden and Finland
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: tommytwotone on January 03, 2023, 04:36:02 pm
Climbing-wise - same as last few years:

Do a new (to me) 7a outdoors somewhere.

Easy to say, but getting the stars of weather / time / family life / ability to all align suitably is the challenge here.

Outside of climbing:

Carry on working from home without going too stir-crazy
Learn to maintain, and actually maintain huge / complex garden on the new house
Be / carry on being an alright Dad and partner


New 7a ticked - Tangled Up In Blue at Dove Lowe on a good but blustery day in March.

Was going well on the training / feeling like I was getting my mojo back front too, and then I knacked my knee at the wall in not a week later. Cue months of faffing about with physios, referrals, knee specialist, then an op. I'm back on my feet now but still rehab-ing.


WFH - still struggle with it but I'm coping. Voluntarily going in approx. a day a week which breaks it up a bit.

Garden - total fail. I hate gardening, and I doubt I ever will.

Parenting etc - hard to assess but both my kids seem like decent, well-behaved (at least outside of the house) people. Probably more my other half's influence!
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: mr chaz on January 03, 2023, 05:46:58 pm
Shockingly, lockdowns, injury and becoming a parent has meant my last logged outdoor climb/boulder was in May... FFS. Shouldn't be too hard to better that in 2022 I hope, so my aims are simply:

1. Jumping on the bandwagon here as well - be a good Dad/partner. Reckon so
2. Build the woodie (shed is up, materials have arrived, holds on order... just need a precious day or so to put it up) woodie is up and thriving
3. Get back to the outdoors in general with family - walking, camping, van, etc not as much as I'd like to
4. Do more climbing than 2021. tick, although still a lot less than I'm used to though
5. Look after bicep. left bicep fully recovered something weird going on with right bicep/elbow
6. Get in some more Trad days with my brother, like the good old times! big fat fail

Less of a priority now and seemingly impossible:

7. Finish (haha!) house renovation and endless list of DIY jobs must be fucking joking
Title: Re: Aims for 2022
Post by: reeve on January 03, 2023, 06:40:09 pm
Looking back it didn't feel like a golden year for climbing, a finger injury in May scuppered most of summer for me. Fortunately the 'best of 2022' thread reminded me of loads of great routes I'd done, proving yet again that enduring mediocrity is no barrier to having fun


Climbing
More E-points than last year (so >184) 195
Try some harder trad routes (i.e. take some entertaining wangers): let’s say five E6s in fair style Hmm, definitely didn't make those kind of numbers but in April I had a good couple of days doing grit routes, and I fell off a lot on one route in October. A bit generous on the orange here maybe!
Get on some big multi-pitch adventures (stuff like Main Cliff, South Stack, anything where if you get stuck you have to abseil into the sea [but ideally don’t get stuck]) Despite this being the thing I love the most... rubbish effort! The factor I find most difficult for this one is organising a matching and psyched partner
Three 8a’s and a couple of 8a+’s (the latter would be the first in five years) A hard fail on this one... injury meant I didn't really get any momentum going with sport all year
Maintain some semblance of strength not being humiliatingly weak throughout summer by going on the board or hanging at least weekly. At a stretch, dare I say it, end the year stronger than now. I wish! I've probably got back to where I was pre-finger injury now I'd say
Get stuck into some dirty offwidth somewhere - a welcome consequence of injury; do some DWS and use the opportunity to heckle “friends” into the sea; bivvy / wildcamp and climb somewhere green-tick wankers don’t go; another new route; do a route at Malham (last time I did was 2013!); 10 trips in the van - well, 9 is close enough!; Darkthrone - didn't even try it; go abroad; get to a bunch of new-to-me crags as this was great fun in 2021.


Non-climbing
Sound-proof the entire house from our friendly (but shouty) neighbours. New kitchen. - no progress on either count, but, if anything, an increase in the shouty-ness will hopefully motivate us to overcome our inertia
Finish bloody PGDip before the fucker gets extended – yet again – to the following year  - pleased to have done this, learnt loads that is directly helpful for my work which I'm enjoying more and more
Keep on with general lifestyle changes and keep the passion for work, which is what makes it enjoyable
Treat Marie even more than last year
See more of friends – finding this harder than ever since March 2020 Not done so as much as I would have like,d although to be fair it isn't for want of trying... Probably a roll-over to 2023
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