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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on November 28, 2017, 08:18:48 pm

Title: Weird twinge In finger
Post by: Alex Smurthwaite on November 28, 2017, 08:18:48 pm
I injured my finger at the start of this year. It's healed but if I pull on small holds I get a weird pulling feeling where the injured pulley was. It doesn't hurt and doesn't feel tender afterwards. Any idea what it is and if it's serious

Cheers
Title: Re: Weird twinge In finger
Post by: peewee on November 29, 2017, 12:38:08 pm
Scar tissue?
Title: Re: Weird twinge In finger
Post by: Alex Smurthwaite on November 29, 2017, 03:32:48 pm
Scar tissue?

Thought it may be scar tissue. Is it anything to worry about?
Title: Re: Weird twinge In finger
Post by: peewee on November 29, 2017, 04:18:31 pm
From personal experience I have had issues with it in the past as it can cause the finger to feel intermittently tweaky, best thing I've found is to use a round pen or similar to massage the area to help break it up.

Could possibly be you've partially torn the pulley and it hasn't healed properly? I fully ruptured my A4 the other year and it there is a little more movement of the tendon compared to the other hand now but it took around a year for me to feel confident with that finger again.
Title: Re: Weird twinge In finger
Post by: nick63 on November 29, 2017, 05:44:13 pm
Have a read of this  it might explain why you feel the slight 'tweakyness' It's possibly a very low grade FUL. If it doesn't hurt cause pain during activity or pst then it's just your body and more specifically your brain being a little over protective/sensitive.

https://theclimbingdoctor.com/clarifying-the-role-of-pain-in-injuries/
Title: Re: Weird twinge In finger
Post by: duncan on November 29, 2017, 08:27:58 pm
Old school explanation: scar tissue

Nu skool explanation: central nervous system sensitisation

Either way, climb on it, gradually ramping up the load and volume.
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