UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: jwi on May 22, 2019, 09:12:48 am

Title: New trad 8c+ in Finland
Post by: jwi on May 22, 2019, 09:12:48 am
Tomi Nytorp has just put up the hardest crack in Finland, Privatvägen (Private street), 8c+.

For those who doesn't know Tomi Nytorp, he is an absolute legend in Scandinavia. Won a couple of nordic championships 15 years ago, and is still going strong, especially on the boulders – but he has also done a few 9a's abroad, like The Essential in Frankenjura and Escalatamasters in Perles, and some 8c+s like La Cabane au Canada and Speed in Switzerland.

Privatvägen has been a well known project for a long time, as it is the only line of weakness on an otherwise blank wall. Tomi Nytorp has tried the route a bit every year since 1999-2000 when he moved done to southern Finland.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oBRlu8wldbk/XORlg1lD0PI/AAAAAAAABPo/zQ3e4nzOZl8yf1-pXhzxjQeZnp0VSQRzwCLcBGAs/s1600/%2B%2B%2B%2B%2Btomi_privatva%25CC%2588gen-14.jpg)
(hope the link works. Photo: Mikko Mäkelä.

Otherwise the photo can be found here https://tyovaenkiipeilijat.blogspot.com/2019/05/privatvagen-8c-ehdokas-maailman.html or here https://www.instagram.com/p/BxsfegIj9Q3/
Title: Re: New trad 8c+ in Finland
Post by: SA Chris on May 22, 2019, 10:11:44 am
Great looking route, crag sounds amazing too, are there any other photos of it?
Title: Re: New trad 8c+ in Finland
Post by: Fiend on May 22, 2019, 10:19:27 am
Yup, that looks hard!
Title: Re: New trad 8c+ in Finland
Post by: duncan on May 22, 2019, 11:16:59 pm
Looks amazing, the single line on the cliff. Google translate is particularly poetic with the original but he appears to be tying himself in knots to not give it 9a.
Title: Re: New trad 8c+ in Finland
Post by: shark on May 23, 2019, 06:57:18 pm
Write up here:

https://stories.27crags.com/index/one-of-the-worlds-hardest-trad-routes-opened-in-finland?fbclid=IwAR1RpuiyWCuCBREOtanxkUSh6VRbRboSs9D7nsiG5lM7xjTxf2VyyPiuSzw
Title: Re: New trad 8c+ in Finland
Post by: Fiend on May 28, 2019, 10:47:41 am
Cheers shurk.
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal