11

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Nemo on Yesterday at 10:37:21 pm »

Having dug a bit further, there's already some pretty comprehensive lists of hard UK trad climbing on remus's site:
https://climbing-history.org/list/28/the-hardest-trad-routes-in-the-world
https://climbing-history.org/list/12/timeline-of-hard-trad-ascents-by-british-people
So not much point in reinventing the wheel.

The following includes a handful of things from outside the UK, but no doubt there's lots of that stuff missing.
With the French / Font grades added in to the above lists, the E10s and above look something like this:


E12
Bon Voyage               9a         Annot (France)      James Pearson (2023), Adam Ondra, Sébastien Berthe   

Hard E11 ?
Echo Wall               8c/8c+        Ben Nevis         Dave Macleod (2008)

E11
Tribe                  9a/9a+      Cadarese (Italy)   Jacopo Larcher (2019), James Pearson
The Best Things...         9a         Gunks (US)          William Moss (2023)
Crown Royale            9a         Norway            Pete Whittaker (2023)

Hard E10 / E11 ?
Rhapsody               8c/8c+        Dumbarton         Dave Macleod (2006), >3 repeats
Meltdown               8c+         Yosemite (US)      Beth Rodden (2008), >3 repeats
The Recovery Drink         8c+         Norway            Nicolas Favresse (2013), Daniel Jung, Pete Whittaker
Power Ranger            8c         Chattanooga, USA   James Pearson (2017)
Immortal               ?         Maidens Bluff      Franco Cookson (2021), James Pearson
Lexicon                  8b+         Pavey Ark         Neil Gresham (2021), >3 repeats

E10                  
El Boulder del Pedal      8c+         La Pedriza (Spain)   Ignacio Mulero (2023)
Blackbeard's Tears         8c+         Promontory (US)      Ethan Pringle (2016), Connor Herson
Into The Sun            8c+       Switzerland         Bernd Zangerl (2017), Jacopo Larcher
Magic Line               8c/8c+      Yosemite         Ron Kauk (1996), Lonnie Kauk, Hazel Findlay, Carlo Traversi
Crown Duel               8c          Norway            Pete Whittaker (2019)
Stranger Than Fiction      8c         US               Mason Earle (2015), Brittany Goris, Lor Sabourin, Pete Whittaker
Mind Riot               8c         Binnein Shuas      Dave MacLeod (2019)
Hard Cheese               8c         Bright Beck Crag   Craig Matheson (2021)
The Sandman               8c         Nesscliffe         Franco Cookson (2022)
GreatNess Wall            8c         Nesscliffe         Steve McClure (2019)
What we do in the Shadows   8c         Duntelchaig         Robbie Phillips   (2021), Dave Macleod                        
Eigerdosis               8c         Norway            Pete Whittaker (2023)
Century Crack            8c         US               Tom Randall (2011), Pete Whittaker, Danny Parker, Fumiya Nakamura
The Pura Pura            8c         Italy            Tom Randall (2014), Pete Whittaker
Cobra Crack               8c         Squamish         Sonnie Trotter (2006), >3 repeats
Choronzon               8b+             Pembroke         Neil Mawson (2014), Steve McClure
Equilibrium               8b+             Burbage            Neil Bentley (2000), Neil Gresham, James Pearson
Doctor Doolittle         8a             Curbar            John Arran (2001)
Sleepy Hollow              ?             The Roaches         Pete Whittaker (2013), Ryan Pasquill
Baron Greenback Direct      8b+             Wimberry         Pete Whittaker
Die By The Drop            ?             GlenFinnan         Dave Macleod, Dave Birkett      
To Hell And Back         7c+             Hell’s Lum         Dave Macleod (2007), Dave Birkett   
Divine Moments Of Truth      ?           North York Moors   Franco Cookson (2015)
Coldfinger               ?         Long Haven         Gordon Lennox (2023)
A Moment of Clarity         Font 8B      Thorn Crag         John Gaskins (2006)
Smart Went Crazy         8b         Eldo Canyon (US)   Matt Segal (2009), William Moss
Too Big to Flail         Font 7C+   Bishop (US)         Alex Honnold (2012), Nina Williams, Lonnie Kauk
The Bull               8b+         Squamish (Canada)   Jeremy Smith (2013), Ben Harnden
The Bigger Baron         8b+         Wimberry         Pete Whittaker (2014)
Nothing Lasts            ?         Sandy Crag         Franco Cookson (2017)
Final Score               8a+         Iron Crag         Neil Gresham (2020)
Magical Thinking         8a+         Pavey Ark         Mathew Wright (2023)
Black Thistle            8b+         Polldubh         Mathew Wright (2023), Dave Macleod
Direquiem               8b+         Dumbarton         Sonnie Trotter (2008)
Le Voyage               8b+         Annot (France)      James Pearson (2017).  >3 repeats, including a flash by Sebastien Berthe.
Viceroy                  8c         US               Matt Wilder (2009), William Moss      
Smart Went Crazy         8b         US               Matt Segal (2009), William Moss               
En Passant               8b+         US                William Moss (2022)
The Human Skewer Direct      ?         Chair Ladder      Mark Edwards (2007), Tom Pearce

Hard E9 / E10?
Hold Fast Hold True         8a/8a+      Glen Nevis         Julian Lines (2013), Iain Small, Franco Cookson
Parthian Shot II         8b           Burbage South      Ben Bransby (2013), >3 repeats, without side runner by James Pearson
Widdop Wall               8b         Widdop            John Dunne (1998), Jordan Buys
Dangermouse                 ?         Wimberry         Miles Gibson (2009)
A Denti Stretti            8b+         Italy            James Pearson (2013)
Prisoners of the Sun      8a+         Rhoscolyn         James Taylor (2021), Jim Pope, James Pearson

12

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Duma on Yesterday at 10:20:43 pm »

Adam is quite strong isn't he?
...
I’ll be down in Weston on Tuesday afternoon/evening to Thursday if anyone needs their rope holding or would like to do some trad. punting.

He is!
Sadly I'm on nights next week so will be sleeping while you're around.

thought it might generate a vague sense of accounability     

That's my thought process too, though I wouldn't write it down otherwise so that's probably a bigger benefit for me.

13

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Duma on Yesterday at 10:02:39 pm »

Twice!

Mental.

14

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Aussiegav on Yesterday at 09:31:28 pm »

Cheers Duma,

Monday -

2 hours of family tennis in the morning.
Walked around Peter Dale in the Peak, fancy a couple days out there this summer.
Evening Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs. 
3 hangs at a total weight 78kg.
Hangs 4 & 5 = 82.8kg
last hang total weight = 85.6kg
body weight 80.3kg
Effort level 7/10.
Felt good. Strength increasing.

Tuesday
Depot after work. First boulder session since pre operation in February. Steady session. Did 4 blacks and 3 reds.
Finished with weights session. Bench press, tricep extension and pistol squats with 4kg kettle bell.

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 77.6kg. Felt good. 6/10 effort level
40min peloton Tabata ride

Friday
Rest
Saturday
Rest day
Sunday
Garden work. 40min Peloton ride in the evening

15

music, art and culture / Re: RIP

« Last post by Probes on Yesterday at 09:20:18 pm »

MC Conrad 
A very good friend was massively into Jungle, I not so, more house/trance but certainly entertained it. He persuaded me to go to Lebateu's in the 'pool once. Both 18 at the time. We floated into the backroom, which would fit 100-150 at best with Fabio, Grooverider & MC Conrad at the helm. I'll never forget that night. 1995. Magical times.   

16

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Teaboy on Yesterday at 09:01:55 pm »

I guess this has been on the cards for a while, the most surprising thing is how easy she seems to have found it. Janja climbs Bugeleisen sit
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C64WOKzs9kc/?igsh=cTl5ZXg0NDh1aG5k

17

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Mostly_Inanimate_Beans on Yesterday at 08:40:45 pm »

Not joined in on this before as I write it all down anyway, but thought it might generate a vague sense of accounability to actually take rest days (it probably won't).

M - Roche, did 6mil Stretch quite quickly then preceded to sweat off Faith Left for the rest of the session. Midged to death. Individual finger pulls as warm up
T - Foundry, Wave: worked a few L5s, sent nowt, individual finger pulls, prone military press 1x8@2.5kg, 2x5@5kg, Pancake fold 3x10@10kg. Stretching
W - Foundry, Board: managed a (soft) 7C. Pancake fold 3x10@10kg. Tried deadlifting as haven't done any in about a year, 3x3@120kg. Seated external rotation 3x3@16.5kg, prone military press 3x5@5kg, Arnold press 3x3@16.5kg. Felt a bit rough deadlifting in a calorie deficit. Stretching
T - Went and Soloed Chocolate Blancmange Gully at Horseshoe. Name says it all really, felt a little spicy. Stretching
F - Anston, Flashed Beta Blocker, did moves on reservation blocker into the start of beta blocker first go but got stuck in heel/toe. Tweaked something in left wrist subsequent go which made pulling on the start of beta blocker feel horrid so sacked it off and sat getting midged. Individual finger pulls as warm up. Later wandered up to Mother Cap to watch northern lights and got sod all sleep as a result.
S - Tideswell, tried E.T Bone Home but couldn't figure out the top move. Bruised achilles on left heel. A few pulls on Pedal To The Nettle but feeling absolutely battered by this point. Queue further midging AND mosqutitoed to death. Individual finger pulls as warm up.
S - Stretching
Overall a fine week to be a bloodsucking insect

18

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by duncan on Yesterday at 08:21:39 pm »

Thanks Duma, Adam is quite strong isn't he?

M - Fingerboard pickups, left only, to 38kg. R elbow rehab. exercises. Leg conditioning: box-steps, heel raises, single-leg squats. Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.

T - Fairlop: concrete bouldering Ft3+/Ft4 x ~10. Walked ~12km.

W - Westway ~6 routes to 6a. Partner brought her Ohm so no practice falls (I can take a hint!).

T - Swam in the murk for ~10 minutes at 14C. First time in 2024, ‘bracing’ is putting it mildly.  Fingerboard pickups, left only, to 36kg. Under-rested and probably not a great idea to do these on the same day as cold water swimming.

F - Westway with csl. 25 practice falls from above bolts, around 100 so far this year.  Led equivalent of ~8 routes to 6a.

S - Shoulder/elbow conditioning: reverse curls, handstands, side planks. Hip flexibility, as above.

S - Fingerboard pickups, left only, to 42kg. Hip flexibility.

Elbow a bit better for some gentle climbing/swimming.

Planning to do more of the same the coming week. I’ll be down in Weston on Tuesday afternoon/evening to Thursday if anyone needs their rope holding or would like to do some trad. punting. 

19

for sale / wanted / Re: FS: Original 5.10 Dragons and Moccasyms size 7

« Last post by Probes on Yesterday at 08:00:29 pm »

What size street are you? cheers

20

beta - chuffing / From a Distance - loose hold

« Last post by Von T on Yesterday at 07:57:33 pm »

I was on From a Distance in Stennis Ford today and noticed that the pretty crucial RH jug on the first crux is pretty wobbly and on its last legs.
Just wondering what's the ethic on a classic/popular route like this? Let the hold fall off and make the big move significantly harder, or is a dab of sika in order? I'm not local, or experienced in gluing routes together so looking for some guidance/ more experienced opinion.

I took a photo of the hold in question but it's too big to upload on here it seems.