Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:29 pm
31 March 2012, 9:28 pm
Hi, I have decided to start a blog to record what I have been up to climbing wise and to share beta and information with other climbers. After years of snooping at other climber's blogs I thought it would be cool to actually write down some of my experiences. I have kept up an 8a.nu profile for the last 12 years which I will keep up, see http://www.8a.nu/Index.aspx?CountryCode=GBR. No trad on there but don't worry, all the juicy details will be splashed over here!
So down to business, today was the first day of the Tor season for me. After hearing of tales of Mecca being ticked it was time to get involved. Psyche has been high for grit bouldering this winter with highlights for me being Zorev, Brass Monkeys, Sole Power and other easier stuff. I decided to stick to the Peak this year and have only been over to Llandudno to the Cave once so far. Three years ago, my last full season in the Peak before leaving Manchester to work in Jersey and Dorset for 2 years, I was going to the Orme every weekend but I decided this time to focus on some unfinished business on the gritstone, which has been great. Finishing old projects means starting new ones which keep it interesting and climbing on grit regularly certainly helps with strength, I feel wiped out after a good session on the grit!
I got on Make it Funky after warming up and chatting to all the regulars. It had certainly not got any easier since I had 2 sessions on it in October 2009. Back then I linked a few of the upper moves together so I was keen to see if I could make some headway.The bottom traverse was wet so I tried the middle bulge which is a burly Font 7c. To be honest it felt desparate but I knew that would be the case, I was only going on it to try the moves and to see if my ring finger still fitted into the mono after I hyperextended it and broke it in Ceuse last summer. It fits but not quite as well as before and I couldn't do the mono move after two goes. Not to worry, I will put this one on the back burner, try and tick some other easier routes and maybe come back to this later in the year. My goals for the spring/ summer are K3 at the Cornice, Full Tilt at Kilnsey and Idefix at Malham. Best get to it!
After the Tor, I went to Gardoms where The Gritstone Treaty was ticked, a nice Font 7b with another mono, not that scary actually with 4 pads. Then I had a go on Heartland, a short Font 7c which is a bit low youth! If this is 7c then the Make it Funky crux is certainly the same grade. I got close but no cigar.
So, that wasn't too hard setting out my first blog post, see more like this soon!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-6085441846483546929?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:30 pm
7 April 2012, 8:39 pm
Hi I thought I would update you on my last couple of outdoor missions. Last sunday I was up at Kilnsey at a freakishly dry crag trying Full Tilt. I refreshed all the moves since my last go on it nearly 3 years ago and did some good links. I need to invest in a knee pad for that top kneebar but I managed to find a slightly easier method for that killer last move!
After a good couple of training sessions down at Stockport wall I felt in decent shape for the weekend's exploits. A trip down south to Devon to visit family gave me the opportunity for a quick visit to my favourite south west crag, Bonehill Rocks. I have been coming here since 1997 and have gradually worked my way up the grades, ticking a lot of the classics along the way. I was stoked to do Tsunami about 2 months ago and meant to return to finish off The Wave Traverse, the rightwards finish to this, without finishing up the Wave, a classic V6. Check out Dave Henderson's excellent online topos for further detail: http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Bonehill/ After trying my original beta on Tsunami for 45 mins, I had an epiphany and thinking back to Dave doing Tsunami in Gone West, I revised my sequence to crossing through on the crimps and spanning to the slot rather than cranking on the bear claw. It worked and the problem went down next go, another one off the list! Then I tried Floater, an unrepeated V9 following a higher break to the Wave Traverse, quality climbing but ti was unfortunately born without a landing in the initial moves!
After looking at a crimpy sidepull left of the Wave I thought that was maybe something John Gaskins could pull on. I didn't look totally impossible so I tried to envision how you could pull on such a hold. Surprisingly, it proved to be simpler than I first thought and the problem went at a lowly V6. I named it Rip Curl to fit in with the nautical theme of this sector. The link from Tsumani may bump it up to V9. Check this video I made. Peace out.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-6477459994851122512?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:31 pm
23 April 2012, 8:12 pm
Heyup this will be my last blog post before my upcoming 12 day trip to the Frankenjura with my good homie Ethan Walker! The last couple of weeks have mainly been hitting the plastic for some intense training sessions but I have managed to get out on zee rock a few times. I have invested in a new camera that takes sick HD movies so watch this space for some forthcoming productions from Germany soon! Check out this vid of Mossatrocity stand start I made to test the thing out. I managed to work out the bottom moves but the full link will have to wait til May when get back. Hopefully it won't be too hot for the odd grit tick then.
The weekend before last I managed to work out Ben's Sidewall at Gardoms finally with Ethan. Camming your foot between the ledge and the underside of the roof seemed to take 3 grades off the problem and it went from practically impossible to easy in about 2 minutes, that's grit for you! I tried Heartland again and nearly managed to link this, doing the crux move for the first time but the next move after slapping up for the slopers on top of the boulder proved elusive.
Just a few words on training, how do you train for a trip involving hard bouldering with a rope on? Well, I have been doing 2 - 3 hour bouldering sessions mixed up with route sessions with between 10 - 13 tie ins. Never less than 10 tie ins is the golden rule! Stockport Wall has been great for this as the problems are cool, challenging and long too. The routes are also good - keeping the fitness topped up has been key for me this year, I feel fitter at this stage than usual, remember its not all about power folks!
When I get back from the Jura, it will finally be time to hit the lime so I intend to get involved up at Malham, Kilnsey and the Tor. Psyched to check out a new area on this trip and sample some German cake and beer too. Keep it real!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-4625526383794051997?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:31 pm
24 May 2012, 10:09 pm
Hi well I have been back in the UK for a couple of weeks now and the awesome trip we just had to the Jura has just about sunk in! It was such an amazing time, with so many cool experiences on and off the rocks that there will not be space to record it all on here. Hopefully these pictures will give a flavour of the holiday. I managed to get my 3 hardest climbs of the trip on video somehow so here they are, enjoy, beta available upon request! So, this ain't no war and peace epic, maybe more text next time, I've kinda busy since I got back.
A big shout out to our wonderful host Tanja who put us up and provided the full Bavarian experience, beer and schnitzel included!
Catch u soon folks! Peace
Slimline 8a+
Inquisition 8a
Leftfield 8a
Selected pics:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WKhUrCpedms/T7WBjXavrWI/AAAAAAAAAAY/eQA2jReNeaA/s320/P1000324.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WKhUrCpedms/T7WBjXavrWI/AAAAAAAAAAY/eQA2jReNeaA/s1600/P1000324.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y8g5a98yWDo/T76o5S8viwI/AAAAAAAAAAs/tQn6xeaSWh0/s320/P1000215.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y8g5a98yWDo/T76o5S8viwI/AAAAAAAAAAs/tQn6xeaSWh0/s1600/P1000215.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lbJlt-sRmP0/T76p_DH3C0I/AAAAAAAAAA0/KPXquK_3Jl4/s320/P1000232.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lbJlt-sRmP0/T76p_DH3C0I/AAAAAAAAAA0/KPXquK_3Jl4/s1600/P1000232.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OrOJiTCQ6aw/T76qfGOsrpI/AAAAAAAAAA8/1E8dOHz8cyo/s320/P1000241.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OrOJiTCQ6aw/T76qfGOsrpI/AAAAAAAAAA8/1E8dOHz8cyo/s1600/P1000241.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5jjmm6egCx8/T76rDagsMaI/AAAAAAAAABE/1x6N-ZQPFoM/s320/P1000278.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5jjmm6egCx8/T76rDagsMaI/AAAAAAAAABE/1x6N-ZQPFoM/s1600/P1000278.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruuHWcHowS0/T76r2Y9yG3I/AAAAAAAAABM/u2oj3CpQHiM/s320/P1000280.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruuHWcHowS0/T76r2Y9yG3I/AAAAAAAAABM/u2oj3CpQHiM/s1600/P1000280.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yoRtJWYCwBA/T76sZ7KzR2I/AAAAAAAAABU/uQtmfae4wWE/s320/P1000288.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yoRtJWYCwBA/T76sZ7KzR2I/AAAAAAAAABU/uQtmfae4wWE/s1600/P1000288.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HO6J0nCmHbE/T76s5pWWrjI/AAAAAAAAABc/rqymaXZZcN0/s320/P1000300.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HO6J0nCmHbE/T76s5pWWrjI/AAAAAAAAABc/rqymaXZZcN0/s1600/P1000300.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pm5j5a5tkBA/T76tadI5oII/AAAAAAAAABk/P6hT0XcF4Rc/s320/P1000306.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pm5j5a5tkBA/T76tadI5oII/AAAAAAAAABk/P6hT0XcF4Rc/s1600/P1000306.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SQ_y7dsRa5s/T76t9XXIrPI/AAAAAAAAABs/pPSv22g_Rkc/s320/P1000314.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SQ_y7dsRa5s/T76t9XXIrPI/AAAAAAAAABs/pPSv22g_Rkc/s1600/P1000314.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fu8XLyLqBv8/T76uikXmDwI/AAAAAAAAAB0/G4ul3QCPmTM/s320/P1000317.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fu8XLyLqBv8/T76uikXmDwI/AAAAAAAAAB0/G4ul3QCPmTM/s1600/P1000317.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WQrGN3kye7I/T76vBFGeLxI/AAAAAAAAAB8/EzEdupV7GEI/s320/P1000318.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WQrGN3kye7I/T76vBFGeLxI/AAAAAAAAAB8/EzEdupV7GEI/s1600/P1000318.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kWPfvVhiYYQ/T7WD2GJk84I/AAAAAAAAAAg/AI2QsAs-iFM/s320/P1000203.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kWPfvVhiYYQ/T7WD2GJk84I/AAAAAAAAAAg/AI2QsAs-iFM/s1600/P1000203.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-2293264352233978278?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:32 pm
7 July 2012, 11:04 pm
Well its been a while since my last post I thought I would wait until i had something to write about. Since coming back from the Jura in May I have been trying to keep it real on the Peak/ Yorkshire crags. First up was Climb of the Century at Malham which I tried with Keefe Murphy. He gave me some excellent beta and I managed to find some tweaks to the beta myself keeping my feet very low to avoid the heinous looking move on the cover of the last guide! It was a close run thing on the redpoint as i had to improvise the top slab with extremely pumped arms, luckily I made it!
Next I got stuck into my projects Idefix at Malham and Full Tilt at Kilney. Idefix was going well before the recent deluge with a new highpoint being reached with 2 moves to go before easy ground, although these are the redpoint crux. I have found taping up whilst working the crux moves off the very sharp pocket seems to work in saving your skin as 3 years ago, I had to stop this route when nearly ready to redpoint it as I had a pretty bad puncture wound on the side of my finger, I still have the scar! Dave showed me some great new beta on Full Tilt going direct past the fourth bolt where i have always gone (desparately) right on a big detour. It involves a crazy flag move and a tiny LH sidepull so you don't have to make the huge reach off the undercut, which I am too short to span. So, this one is prepped ready for when the crags ever dry out.
After work evening sessions are in full swing right now and I used the time to get Chimes wired again so I could have a crack at Waddage. I managed to link from the end of the roof to the jump move OK so it all came down to the dyno. I sessioned this and got it wired in the end but it is a really physical leap from a massive hold. If it was on Minus 10 it would be V5 I reckon. With the rest out right, you are basically climbing two routes (8a+ with a 7c/7c+ on top after the rest). As others have said, it is a bit of a psycological battle up there as you don't want to blow it after doing chimes. On the redpoint, I managed to get through the bottom OK and it all came together up high after a 10 min rest in the break.
I bagged off Idefix due to the state of the crag and switched it up by trying Overnite. I had always saved this for the flash but realised that this was perhaps being optimistic. It nearly went down in a session but I missed a key hold on the top flag move (which incidentally is one of the funkiest I have done on the catwalk, very cool) and fell off this on redpoint. I went back the other week to seal the deal and was lucky to be able to redpoint it past a wet sidepull by the fourth bolt which I had to towel dry and chalk on redpoint.
Since then I have done Ring of Fire at the Tor, which is one of the last ones on the right wing at a reasonable grade I haven't done. Here is an impromptu vid of the ascent, not the greatest quality but which will offer some beta if nothing else. Remember, stay right of the bolts at the top, don't use the minging slopers by the bolt!
Last weekend, I tried the Inch Test and nearly stuck the sidepull on the crimpy english 7a move but no cigar, this will have to wait til next time. I did eat the rich, which is a nice 7b+ but make sure you actually get your hands over the top of the crag before dropping off and avoiding the loose looking jugs to top out - lowering off before the roof misses out a couple of beefy moves.
Anyway, off the the Orme tomorrow to seek out some dry stone, which may be a forlorn hope at this rate!
Peace.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-1269107734752757468?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:32 pm
26 August 2012, 8:12 pm
Well since I last wrote, the weather was pretty diabolical up until the last 3 weeks or so and it was all about finding dry rock anywhere possible.
Evening sessions after work have been quite productive and I tried Zippy's companion route to the right of Waddage, Fowl Play, which is an 8a+ that gets virtually ignored, despite very good climbing for the most part. It was the only thing dry I hadn't done so I was keen to get involved. The top moves are very thin and involve a very tenuous rockover using a small left hand gaston onto the 'slab' just where the route joins Waddage. I could barely do these moves in isolation whilst working the route so was a little apprehensive about linking the whole thing. Luckily I need not have worried as it came together quite nicely. The start of Green Alternative (a burly 7c) leads to a poor rest on an overhung ledge before Rooster Booster pitch 2 kicks in (a physical 7c). Then the route gets a lot easier at the Cream Team break where you move left to a junction with the Waddage rest. I was able to get almost full recovery before the top bit, which I reckon has to be V6 moves at least, the incentive in not falling was avoiding doing all the bottom bit again!
At Kilnsey, I reluctantly decided that Full Tilt was not an option due to it being too wet so got stuck in to Cold Steal instead which I initially found pretty hard. With repeated attempts, it soon got easier though. On redpoint, I pumped out on the last 4 moves just before the last clip which was gutting so had to come back the following weekend to seal the deal.
At Rubicon, the last few evening sessions of the year were spent trying the Pinch Test, a very tricky 7c+ of Zippy's and one of the last lines at the crag which I haven't done which won't involve protracted sieging. That said, it took me 4 sessions so it was with relief that I clipped the anchor yesterday. I managed to capture the ascent on video so here it is. This may be the only video in existence of this route so I hope the beta is of some use, it took ages to work out!
Today, I was quite tired second day on trying the Inch Test and didn't manage to make much headway so that will have to wait until the Autumn cool when I return from the south of France, which is where im headed tomorrow. Ceuse will be on the agenda although this trip will be more of a sightseeing journey to be honest, it would be good to sneak a 7c or two though!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-7284296315695205315?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:33 pm
8 September 2012, 8:18 pm
Well I just got back from an 11 day tour of Ceuse and Gorge du Loup. It was great to devote some quality time to climbing and not just sometimes squeezed in evening sessions. I made the walk up the hill to Ceuse twice in a lightning visit there. It took a day to switch back into stamina mode on the pockets there but by day 2 I managed to clip the chains of a rather stout 7b+ called Machoire d'Ane, which has a pretty desparate crux move. Some onsights of Dietetic Line and 2001 Odyssey de Grimp followed, both stonking 7b's.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SvjNTkb53mo/UEuF8T6gw9I/AAAAAAAAACI/hqr8DhcuDlo/s400/P1000442.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SvjNTkb53mo/UEuF8T6gw9I/AAAAAAAAACI/hqr8DhcuDlo/s1600/P1000442.JPG)
Classic Ceuse panorama
This was my 4th visit to the crag in 7 years so I decided to change focus and visit a completely different area, with a (thankfully) only 5 min walkin! Gorge du Loup is only a hop skip and a jump from Nice and sits in a river gorge which is prone to a cooling breeze when the sun is out which makes it possible to climb here in the hottest summer months despite the crag being at a low altitude.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjluikz89K8/UEul1kByjOI/AAAAAAAAADo/5LbH9ERtxq0/s400/P1000478.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjluikz89K8/UEul1kByjOI/AAAAAAAAADo/5LbH9ERtxq0/s1600/P1000478.JPG)
Bar du Loup from Gourdon, above the Gorge
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1W3cvs9cuPI/UEuW14yoVJI/AAAAAAAAACs/VFTVvEVZMkE/s400/P1000477.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1W3cvs9cuPI/UEuW14yoVJI/AAAAAAAAACs/VFTVvEVZMkE/s1600/P1000477.JPG)
View out to the Med from Gourdon
After an intro day where I ticked the heavily chipped Mechanik Destructiv, a burly 7c and a few easier sideshow pitches, on day 2 I got stuck into a route which is difficult to avoid at this crag, the ultraclassic Deverse Satanique, an amazing 45 degrees overhanging wall festooned with tufas and kneebars! The first couple of tries up this rig convinced me that it was going to be quite a battle but with a couple of burns on day 3, it started to fall into place. A rest day later and I tied in below this classic stamina testpiece and managed to get through the crux wrestle with a tufa and into the strenuous kneebar beyond. Some juggy but steep pulls on tufa follow before the final drainpipe tufa which guards the chains and is eminently fluffable. Thankfully I managed to negotiate this last obstacle and keep the pump enough at bay to complete the route, truly a king line!
Next up was Cascade, an amazing 8a extension to Mechanik. It involves some huge tufa features and unsurprisingly some more kneebars on seriously steep terrain. It took a little working out but once I knew what i was doing, it went down the first time I could get back up Mechanik, which suddenly seemed distinctly uphill for 7c. You can rest in a bivy cave all day if you like which makes grading this line somewhat problematic. Here are some pics of Mechanik on the send go.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PI0zP5pup5U/UEuZPkXXYuI/AAAAAAAAAC8/Z3p4jk7no1g/s400/P1000462.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ugj05ZqVhgY/UEuaxytYy6I/AAAAAAAAADM/uW4IoX55exI/s400/P1000465.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ugj05ZqVhgY/UEuaxytYy6I/AAAAAAAAADM/uW4IoX55exI/s1600/P1000465.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UWe1xWn5e5Y/UEuaCOSwBvI/AAAAAAAAADE/z7nRt3nv0c8/s400/P1000464.JPG)
Our Czech friend Petr suggested a neat little 8a called Vigor on the far right of the crag as something for my last 2 days so I got stuck into this but it felt hard due to me being pumped from the 8a I had just climbed. After a rest day spent lounging around by the river pools in the gorge, reading and eating ice cream, I felt sufficiently rejuvenated for this to feel much easier and it went down on my last day after I luckily managed to get a belay from some visiting Poles.
Back in Blighty now, it is time to get stuck into Peak lime now that Kilnsey appears to be out of commission. Mecca extension will keep my busy I reckon judging by this morning's session. Progress was made on the moves and I managed the hard bit in two halves but need to get hold of a new pair of boots to cope with the micro edges. It was nice to be back on Mecca after 3 years away but it feels good to have had a break too. Till next time!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-6556830530705733195?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2012, 05:21:33 pm
15 October 2012, 8:30 pm
Hello to all readers. My next post has been inspired by a visit yesterday to an old haunt of mine, the Pill Box wall on the mighty Orme. I had it in mind to try and settle an old score of mine, a V12 traverse of Ormesman Chris Doyle which I had invested considerable amounts of time and effort in trying to repeat back in 2009. This had always been classified as unfinished business with me as I had come extremely close in April of that year before deciding to sack it off in favour of getting on routes. My best effort is already on my facebook videos for those interested.
I always meant to come back and finish it off. However, circumstances conspired against me and I ended up being made redundant later in the year, moving to Jersey and then Dorset in 2010 and 2011 for work before moving back up north just over a year ago. Whilst being away from my old training venues in Manchester, it was difficult to train power due to the dearth of bouldering facilities worthy of the name. In Jersey, the best climbing wall was in a corridor, mostly vertical and dated from 1986! and in Dorset the best bouldering wall was no more than 7 feet high with holds also from the 80's. I made the most doing lots of routes outside and managed to get quite fit doing 100 move circuits in a private facility near where I lived in Sherborne, Dorset. However, there were no dedicated 45 degree boards where you could do well set power problems of more than 2 moves.
Back in Manc, for the past year I have mainly been doing routes with only the odd power session thrown in top it up. This was because I was minded to keep fit for Spanish trips and UK routes. This approach has worked pretty well and has enabled me to tick British 8a+'s and the odd foreign 8a. However, the steely power for Font 8a has not been worked on properly since 2009. I have managed to get up Font 7c's and the odd 7c+ but have not been in the bouldering form needed bust out the magic 8 grade for some time now.
Yesterday, second day on on the Box and first climbing visit since April 09 was a rather humbling experience compared to how climbing on here used to feel 3 and a half years ago although positive in that I can see where I need to get to now. I did Pill Box Original, Whisky Bitch and Mr Whippy, both 7a+'s, again and did all the moves on Drink Driving. It seems like a fair bit of work will be needed to get back in the shape needed to do it. Still, I am psyched. Back then it had not had a 2nd ascent - that cachet has now gone as it has now had 3 or 4 repeats. My inspiration comes from the following footage I have found in the archives of the first repeat of Malteser/ Last Rites, a classic Font 8a linkup a couple of months before I nearly did DD. This includes the crux of DD, the big span left to the poor pinch/ crimp.
The day I did this, I had already done 2 other 8a's in the Cave, and it was one of the best days' climbing I have ever had. Here is a link to an article that mentions it: http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=388
Anyway, to get in the shape to it do DD again will mean doing more bouldering at Stockport Wall but this is no hardship as it has an excellent circuit of problems and a massive 45 degree board. I will do a session bouldering every Tues and a session routing every Thurs to keep the fitness going and will try to do some pullups on Weds too.
On sat, I managed to do the top pitch of Mecca Extension which is 8a+ which i have been working on for the past few weekends and nearly did it linking in the 7c+ groove of Mecca so am syked for that probably in the spring now. Seems as though the moves on this are not as hard as Drink Driving! Bouldering on the Box over the winter should provide plenty of power for the extension, it will just be a little chilling on that north face in the icy wind! Mercifully, the warm car and hot flask are only 20 seconds away. No pads in the sea this time.
Venga bichos!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-3866354724132710654?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: slackline on October 17, 2012, 06:40:16 pm
(http://www.sonarfilm.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Ted2.jpg)
Post by: comPiler on December 03, 2012, 12:00:35 am
2 December 2012, 9:07 pm
Hi folks well the grit season is now upon us and the tor has become a distant memory. Its all about the grit now and the Orme, if wet. Several sessions have now been had on at Burbage West on Famous Grouse and today was send day at last and one of my longest battles was finally over. I had been trying this problem with the Nick Reyner beta from the only video I could find of the problem but had to sack it off after many sessions failing to get my right foot up above the roof. A breakthrough came when I managed to get the second sloper for my left hand after trying standing on a low smear and flicking up to it. This is a very knacky move but when it works it is very satisfying. I managed to get stood up over the roof pawing the slopers but my left foot kept blowing off the break foothold, which is very blind. A couple more sessions went by with backwards progress unfortunately as I was tired from overtraining on one of them and a little hungover on the other! I binned the low left heel method as well as while I could statically lock up to the second sloper this way, i could not then get my left foot up from that position. The left heel on slab method was also tried but I could not throw my heel up this high.
Today it all came together, I knew I was feeling stronger and conditions were mint. The flick to the sloper was working every time although getting the left foot up was still extremely touch and go as you have to squeeze like crazy between this very poor hold and the arete while nimbly running your feet up a blank wall to waist level, which is somewhat desparate. I even managed to embarrassingly fall off with the good sidepull jug in my hand when my foot blew off a poor smear which was agonising. Happily, it went down the next go, feeling much easier on the slopers due to the excellent conditions.
The sit start was tempting and thankfully I found a way of starting side-on which made it pretty easy. While brushing the second sloper from the neighbouring boulder I noticed I was holding it too high on a very poor slopey part. I ticked up a slightly lower rugosity which looked a little more positive and this proved to make the difference. The move getting the left foot up felt a little easier this time and the sit was in the bag. Video footage of the stand will be aired soon!
Another problem that I managed to get on film is True Git which i was shown how to do today; i later found out I had not done it properly as you're meant to start matched in the low break but i reckon the stand start is 7a+. Here is the vid:
Later, I met Dave up by Western Eyes and after many attempts managed to do the lower moves to getting stood up. I have been trying this for a few years so was chuffed to do the desparate slap with the right hand for the good sidepull off the very slopey break. Unfortunately I didn't have the top bit worked so pinged off and was expertly caught by Dave before going for a spin down the hill! I got a bunk up and managed the move to the top break. So, although I could have perhaps done this with a bit of luck on the upper arete, it remains a work in progress. After watching Dave do the scary direct finish, it looks as though this will have to be done as well rather than stepping off into the gully, better get psyched!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7492109180324242543-3722490113566903244?l=tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2013, 12:00:22 am
29 January 2013, 11:21 pm
Well I have been back from Suirana for over 3 weeks and a fantastic trip has just about sunk in now. I went out for 11 days from 27 December through to 6 January with climbing on all bar 2 days. New Year's Eve was celebrated in fine style in the bar in Suirana moving down in Cornudella until the early hours.
Highlights from the trip included a redpoint of Zona 0 on the last day, Un Rato en Cado Postura, a neat 8a on Campi Pigui Puqui sector which has a desparate top wall and slab and an onsight of Kameleon, a 50m 7c up at Monsant. I was pleased to feel a big increase in fitness during the trip just from the sheer volume of route climbing following a period of predominantly bouldering. In all, 14 new ticks of over 7a were logged although i also repeated a few ones I'd done before. I got on Migranya, a butch 8b which had initially been my goal for the trip but which got superceded by my attempts on Zona. The latter route was more my style, being a crimpy wall climb for the most part, akin to similar 8b's at Malham or the Tor. It took 4 sessions in total although I didn't really think I had it in me in the first 2!
The route comprises of an initial 4 bolt 6a+ to a near hands off rest followed by another 4 bolt 7b to below the crux. I managed to step off to the right 1m to some good footholds to rest a little, which proved to be the key as on other earlier attempts, I had forged on into the crux following the chalk with virtually no rest and had been spat off due to the pump. The crux 3 bolts are probably Font 7a+ in total and there are 2 methods. You can either go right up via some burly right hand sidepulls with a big throw with your left hand for a flat edge (a very cool slap!) or beetle off lefwards using a razorblade crimp for your left hand. The left hand way was very harsh on the skin and not as satisfying so I stuck with the right hand way. Then you have 2 bolts of 'tick tacky' 7b climbing up very small edges, gastons, crimps and sidepulls leading up to the final break, where a decent shakeout can be had, although you had better be fit to recover!! After a traverse 2 m rightwards, the final crux, which is probably about Font 6c/7a bars entry to the exit slab, which is probably 4+! This last hard section is pretty brutal and involves a massive reach off a tiny undercut for a 2 finger pocket, flag, then a back 3 sidepull pocket for the right hand which leads to a fat pinch for the left hand which you must use to do a big slap to the finishing crimps.
This trip has only served the whet my appetite for more at this crag and I have shelled out 30E for the massive rockfax Catalunya guide so will defo be returning for more soon. I have considered Renegoide, an old skool crimpy 8b+ wall climb, or Mr Cheki, a Toni Arbonne testpiece of the same grade with a viscious pocket move as suitable candidates or indeed Migranya, (or 'Miiggggrraaaaanyaaaaa', said with an outrageous Spanish twang, as we jested about). It will be back to the board for the last one though ;).
Since being back, I have been out and about on the grit and have managed to tick Blind Ali's Date, a good link up at Remergence. Here is a video of an attempt before the send go. Blind Date feels hard on the link until it clicks and then its easy, always the way with bouldering!
Since then a good day at Rowtor was had, ticking a bunch of 7b's including My Apple and the Yoghurt Hypnotist and I managed to get up Nefertiti, the highball Font 7a+ at Burbage North on another day with Ethan. Check out the video on Ethan's blog! I have even been down to Nudas Tartan in the wet to scope out a new sequence on Tarantula, which should make this feasible and also Minus Ten to repeat Sean's Problem (just for old times' sake mind).
Here are a few of my Spanish photos I didn't put on Facebook, I hope you enjoy. I'm off to a Pro-Balm comp this weekend which will be my first plastic event for quite a few years so I'm pretty psyched! Peace out
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hfOIZJyXOhM/UQhYoSBawAI/AAAAAAAAAEg/st4-2EvuB1w/s320/P1000679.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hfOIZJyXOhM/UQhYoSBawAI/AAAAAAAAAEg/st4-2EvuB1w/s1600/P1000679.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o2zdxFt5-5U/UQhYu1qnb4I/AAAAAAAAAEo/2WqiIfE6bdA/s320/P1000682.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o2zdxFt5-5U/UQhYu1qnb4I/AAAAAAAAAEo/2WqiIfE6bdA/s1600/P1000682.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4_2JLPLoSOg/UQhY6X7TnYI/AAAAAAAAAE0/0xceHZ-tzfM/s320/P1000666.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4_2JLPLoSOg/UQhY6X7TnYI/AAAAAAAAAE0/0xceHZ-tzfM/s1600/P1000666.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ACN5_ubRkSo/UQhZJ_nUaBI/AAAAAAAAAE8/b2RuuUGjsmY/s320/P1000671.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ACN5_ubRkSo/UQhZJ_nUaBI/AAAAAAAAAE8/b2RuuUGjsmY/s1600/P1000671.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XgRULPis9os/UQhZS2nrsUI/AAAAAAAAAFE/Mk8l061RHtc/s320/P1000689.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XgRULPis9os/UQhZS2nrsUI/AAAAAAAAAFE/Mk8l061RHtc/s1600/P1000689.JPG)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2013, 10:59:41 pm
22 March 2013, 8:24 pm
Hi folks just to update you on the last few months of activity on god's own rock. I decided that instead of costly trips to the Orme I would focus on Peak gritstone to generate some new ticks instead of working on things like Drink Driving, which would require a lot of work towards the redpoint, with no guarantee of success.There's nothing quite like a tick to keep the enthusiasm up and that has been my primary focus. I have been through my guide to see the glaring ommissions and made a point of seeking some of them out. Unfortunately, I managed to tear a stomach muscle about 5 weeks ago on repeated attempts on a steep problem at Stockport wall which stopped me in my tracks a bit as I couldn't even get out of bed without pain nevermind swing my core around on steep ground! This proved to be something of a blessing in disguise as I managed to tick some slabs and walls which i perhaps wouldn't have otherwise tried.
My best grit ticks over the last 2 months have been:
- Brad Pit (with top out) (see vid below)
- Ben's Wall
- Barry Sheene
- Shirley's Shining Temple
- Silk
- Who Needs Ready Brek?
- Business Lunch
- Stump Hole Cavern Sit (Flash)
- Brutal Arete
- Beneath the Breadline
- David
- Flatworld Lefthand
- For a Few Beagles More
The highlight was probably Shirleys and big props to Dan Cheatham for his vid for all the beta. This took me 3 sessions to unlock as it features some vicious cranking on minute pebbles and crimps if you can't get the palm-down to work (as i couldn't). Ironically this came on a sunny, hot day and i was in 2 minds as to whether to sack it off and come back in the evening. Im glad i persisted though and the first time i managed to crank through the start bulge, I made it up the rest of the slab via some pretty eye-popping rockovers! Luckily some people nearby gave me a spot although with my 3 pads it would have been fine to lob off i reckon. This was a fair bit harder than Silk and more sustained, fair at Font 7c for me.
On Barry Sheene, i managed to finally get the heel toe to work to generate enough reach (just) and perhaps the most satisfying tick of all was Ben's Wall, which I have been trying since 2008! Here is a video of a near miss a couple of weeks prior to the eventual send, agonisingly close but no cigar. I was getting concerned about the problem's potential to rag your A2 pulley on the nasty undercut pocket the way I was doing it going with my right hand. Thankfully the time it went down, I caught the pocket so well, there was no outswing (unlike on the vid), a great moment after hundreds of tries over the years.
Brutal arete was great and lived up to its rep. I was joined by Emlyn and Ben who showed me the numbers (cheers guys!) After a near miss (see vid below) it went down next session.
Equaling my hardest flash was Stump Hole Cavern Sit, thanks to Chris's vid, it proved to be a very short visit there. A dash down to the Roaches as my third crag of the day yielded Who Needs Ready Brek, which is pretty amazing and about as crimpy as they come.
Looking to the future, I was surprised at being able to pull on to the Joker fine, unlike in previous years, and having a few waves at the top. This has now moved onto the project list and I look forward to a tussle with it perhaps next winter now the lime season is nearly upon us.
I leave you with one from Dan Cheatam of Famous Grouse from last year, capturing a well desired ascent after literally years of tries! Sometimes its all worth it.
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: Zods Beard on March 22, 2013, 11:06:30 pm
Post by: b3n99 on March 22, 2013, 11:36:35 pm
Post by: 205Chris on March 23, 2013, 08:31:38 am
Gritstone Roundup (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2013/03/gritstone-roundup.html)
22 March 2013, 8:24 pm
Brutal arete was great and lived up to its rep. I was joined by Emlyn and Ben who showed me the numbers (cheers guys!) After a near miss (see vid below) it went down next session.
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
You call that a near miss? This is a near miss :whistle:
Andy saves my life on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57316298)
Post by: Kingy on March 23, 2013, 09:05:04 am
Post by: Fiend on March 23, 2013, 09:41:15 am
Post by: Gritlad on March 23, 2013, 09:41:58 am
Emlyn
Post by: comPiler on May 08, 2013, 01:01:02 am
7 May 2013, 9:23 pm
Welcome readers, time for an update from the Jura from our spring trip. ?Well it would be fair to say that the crags were a bit wet to say the least but we made the best of it and traded in our dreamt of projects for some 1 and 2 star material which was dry and probably almost as good as the stuff we meant to get on. We had an abortive visit to the southern crags where we had planned to get on, amongst others, Hercules, a superclassic 7c at Barenschlucht, and maybe Nightmare, an amazing 8b with an infamous clip off a mono. However, a deluge of rain and seeping crags put paid to that plan and scarcely had the tent been pitched at the deserted campsite when it was taken down and we had bailed back up to our base in the north.
The crags in the north of the Jura are relatively unsung but boast some pretty high calibre climbs with such lines as Nikita, the standout 8a+ classic and the brutal Raise the Roof, an 8b+ which could not be much steeper! Unfortunately, most of these climbs were seeping but the lads managed to get up a few 8a's and 8a+'s at Holzgauerwand, where Nikita is located, despite the odd spoogey pocket (make that most pockets!!)
For my part, I managed to get up Infiziert, a nice 9+ or 8a at Rolandfels that consisted of a sustained wall on crimps and small pockets leading to a wet crux crimp and shakeout jug. From there the style changed to some awkward pull of slopers and strange pockets leading to the loweroff. Quite a few redpoints were expended on this section resulting in some exciting whippers!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OgapeU6Zba8/UYldUQ88fiI/AAAAAAAAAFg/sc3D8NJ_kvE/s320/P1000808.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OgapeU6Zba8/UYldUQ88fiI/AAAAAAAAAFg/sc3D8NJ_kvE/s1600/P1000808.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jwSS8RtsEsM/UYlb3NCd19I/AAAAAAAAAFU/CZ17LtGyPyc/s320/P1000806.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jwSS8RtsEsM/UYlb3NCd19I/AAAAAAAAAFU/CZ17LtGyPyc/s1600/P1000806.JPG)
Ethan on Nullkommanix 8a+ (Rolandfels)
We had a rather character building doss in the cave at this crag on a bed of leaves living the true outdoor life! The morning brew sure tasted good made with water hulked up the hill from the nearby river.
The saving grace of the trip was definitely a sunny wall called Kuhkirchnerwand near a charming village called Loch. This crag was dry and south facing but the flip side was that it was hot as hell in the sun and pretty busy at weekends to boot.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gwbkJ_gIQ6Q/UYlgdZyw0_I/AAAAAAAAAGc/J58FEnHw_pc/s320/P1000894.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gwbkJ_gIQ6Q/UYlgdZyw0_I/AAAAAAAAAGc/J58FEnHw_pc/s1600/P1000894.JPG)
Crag scene at Kuhkirchnerwand, Loch
The popular steep 8a+ of Primeur de Luxe that saw sends from Ed and Ethan seemed to often have queues but thankfully it was so steep that people were not on it for long.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LD5XJaCV2v8/UYlhyqVxJRI/AAAAAAAAAHE/rWLGY-TI664/s320/P1000908.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LD5XJaCV2v8/UYlhyqVxJRI/AAAAAAAAAHE/rWLGY-TI664/s1600/P1000908.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-rOjiAggqA/UYliNmZ_rCI/AAAAAAAAAHM/0Nu3THLfPSg/s320/P1000909.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-rOjiAggqA/UYliNmZ_rCI/AAAAAAAAAHM/0Nu3THLfPSg/s1600/P1000909.JPG)
Ethan on Primeur de Luxe 8a+ (or 10-)
I went for a bouldery number called Fingerfood 10- (or 8a+). This had a Rubicon style crux right off the deck which was probably V8 involving pulling on a tiny tooth and then rocking onto it to gain a shakeout jug. The final 4 bolts were probably 7b+ or 7c with some intense pulls on small crimps and pockets.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDvfjgZ_mb8/UYlgt7qoN9I/AAAAAAAAAGk/x7XAPyuDtKs/s320/P1000895.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDvfjgZ_mb8/UYlgt7qoN9I/AAAAAAAAAGk/x7XAPyuDtKs/s1600/P1000895.JPG)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k6wn0D9b5sU/UYlg0CE9-oI/AAAAAAAAAGs/RfWNvcSOnKo/s320/P1000901.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k6wn0D9b5sU/UYlg0CE9-oI/AAAAAAAAAGs/RfWNvcSOnKo/s1600/P1000901.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oHTjbEtHVKk/UYlfEG3a56I/AAAAAAAAAGI/qOyhZET6Vdw/s320/P1000888.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oHTjbEtHVKk/UYlfEG3a56I/AAAAAAAAAGI/qOyhZET6Vdw/s1600/P1000888.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4sAQ_yLUwkM/UYlhDkx20_I/AAAAAAAAAG0/7ZtUWLqAF5Q/s320/P1000903.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4sAQ_yLUwkM/UYlhDkx20_I/AAAAAAAAAG0/7ZtUWLqAF5Q/s1600/P1000903.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua6MmqBZz9Y/UYlhWtbKyaI/AAAAAAAAAG8/p1LSAOBXk4s/s320/P1000905.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua6MmqBZz9Y/UYlhWtbKyaI/AAAAAAAAAG8/p1LSAOBXk4s/s1600/P1000905.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eszQF94jvag/UYlgK6knXZI/AAAAAAAAAGU/kLGdz0J-6b4/s320/P1000891.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eszQF94jvag/UYlgK6knXZI/AAAAAAAAAGU/kLGdz0J-6b4/s1600/P1000891.JPG)
Fingerfood 8a+ (or 10-)
Sam and I indulged in the Wolfgang Gullich classic crack of Heinzin 8 just to the left, originally climbed on trad I believe that gave an exercise in technical bridging with some jug pulling and rattly finger jams to boot, awesome!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GG2HRvtdDI/UYliU9QlHbI/AAAAAAAAAHU/uAKrhudDrDs/s320/P1000912.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GG2HRvtdDI/UYliU9QlHbI/AAAAAAAAAHU/uAKrhudDrDs/s1600/P1000912.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rCXNlaP7jO8/UYliah8sD8I/AAAAAAAAAHc/RemYPtUGnRA/s320/P1000915.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rCXNlaP7jO8/UYliah8sD8I/AAAAAAAAAHc/RemYPtUGnRA/s1600/P1000915.JPG)
Heinzin 8 (or 7a)
Another good find was the microcrag of Andeltodrom, which is randomly located in the middle of some dense woods and rather difficult to find with the limited (to say the least!) descriptions in the Extreme Frankejura Select guide. The crag is tilted at 45 degreees for 30 feet and climbing on it is like going up a giant woodie. Hakuma Madada is the route of the crag at a stout 7c on some tasty pockets, and saw several flashes.
We had a couple of nights out to nearby Bamberg to sample the infamous weissbier, which at 2 Euros a pint is hard to quibble with! Snitzel was duly sampled along with the ubiquitous sauerkraut. Drinking and hard sending don't tend to mix, funnily enough, but luckily there is a place for both on any well balanced trip.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kreom8htDx0/UYldwDiGdNI/AAAAAAAAAFo/iIEONuhylYc/s320/P1000851.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pV1WMi8viic/UYlevL8gIDI/AAAAAAAAAGA/fPl7LL8Vh1k/s320/P1000886.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pV1WMi8viic/UYlevL8gIDI/AAAAAAAAAGA/fPl7LL8Vh1k/s1600/P1000886.JPG)
To sum up, to borrow a quote from Dosage III, whenever the season was, it was not now! We had a blast, didn't we boys!!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-57axJUuoUOY/UYli-nIWlfI/AAAAAAAAAHk/AGgyhPM1Bss/s320/P1000867.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-57axJUuoUOY/UYli-nIWlfI/AAAAAAAAAHk/AGgyhPM1Bss/s1600/P1000867.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BLUVv6lvt7Q/UYleGDICvRI/AAAAAAAAAFw/Ihh50Qo4fu8/s320/P1000874.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BLUVv6lvt7Q/UYleGDICvRI/AAAAAAAAAFw/Ihh50Qo4fu8/s1600/P1000874.JPG)
Sam on Stalingrad 7b+
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iXYGGo7sFyM/UYleU8uipLI/AAAAAAAAAF4/scglfAcmP78/s320/P1000879.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iXYGGo7sFyM/UYleU8uipLI/AAAAAAAAAF4/scglfAcmP78/s1600/P1000879.JPG)
Ed on SMS 8a+
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on June 23, 2013, 01:00:29 am
22 June 2013, 11:13 pm
Well some of the dust has settled since I finally managed to complete the extension last sunday so now seems as good a time as any to set down some thoughts. Hopefully the following will cause others to get psyched and get out there to send some things at their personal limit! This might be a bit long for some tastes but if so, just skip to the last paragraph! Ever since ticking Mecca in 2009 I had a vague notion of going higher and had briefly checked out the extension in 2006 when I could barely do a move. You need to put a lot of time in up there to get used to the snatchy and insecure style of movement on poor fingerholds and timebomb smears. Yes, the top half is in complete contrast to the lower part, which is essentially a power endurance fest. Instead, it demands execution of complex and tenuous, technical moves which, once learned, start to feel easier once the engrams become engrained. I had such a battle getting up Mecca since first trying it in 2006 that all thoughts of the extension went out of the window. 50 sessions and 4 years later, I eventually clipped the chains once I got back from the Dolomites in August on a trip with Ben Heason.
Over next 3 years, I moved away from Manchester to Jersey and Dorset before returning to my homeland in 2011. The Tor fitness was not quite there though and it took all of last year to get back up to scratch. I had a difficult decision to make because I had wanted to get on Make it Funky as I had done a good link on this from the end of the crux to the top after doing Mecca and wanted a completely new project. However, the best laid plans are sometimes blown to smithereens and I hyperextended my right ring finger on the famous 7c+ Mirage in Ceuse summer 2011. Having sent 8a on it on the last day of the trip, the finger swelled up and an xray back home revealed that I had an avulsion fracture! A fragment of bone had been ripped away from the joint by the force of the finger bending back...gnarly!! Luckily I was back in action after 6 weeks rest with no ill effects apart from my fingertip being a bit fatter. So, the Make it Funky bolt hole mono move is no longer so feasible, oh well such is life! This is what prompted me to try the extension seriously.
So last summer I went up there again after speaking to Adam Bailes who was close to ticking the route. I was psyched to be able to do all the moves that session. I kept going back up there and managed to gradually link from the pocket before the traverse to the top, a breakthrough at the time. Then from the Mecca belay to the top. It was this link that opened my eyes to actually climbing the thing. Before the winter rains set in, I managed to link from the base of the Mecca groove to the top, another big buzz as it was the first time I had skipped the last clip, which you need to do in order to tick the route, it being too strenous to clip. Sometimes, you need to man up! I knew then that it was on next year.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7eGpUlQzZvY/UcYs_9cGQ4I/AAAAAAAAAH4/znbie3g6O6Y/s320/Mecca+Ext.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7eGpUlQzZvY/UcYs_9cGQ4I/AAAAAAAAAH4/znbie3g6O6Y/s1600/Mecca+Ext.jpg)
Gaining the base of the final flake
Another big change was embracing the kneebar for the moves up the groove. In the past I had been a little resistant to change but a change of heart made me check it out for the first time only to be blown away by how good the moves were using the knees, although it did make the top section signficantly easier. What used to be moves at my absolute power endurance limit are now much more manageable from the ground with the hands off rest. Having said all that, I can only stay there for 20 seconds or so as the core strength rapidly drains in such a strenous position. At the end of the day, its personal choice on this one....
As the top was wet for much of March and April, I only managed to get back on the route after returning from the Jura in April. Progress was slow in the first couple of weeks and I only managed to repeat the horn to top link after several sessions. Gradually, the moves began to feel easier and I started trying the last link I would attempt before trying it from the ground, from the 3rd bolt to the top (i.e. the old 'pocket link' on Mecca). This felt a lot harder adding in the crux part of Mecca and it was only after a few more sessions that this eventually fell with me pumping out at the base of the flake quite a few times. Shaking out on the big flake above the Mecca belay, I began to feel some fitness building with each session, it was exciting seeing the progress. This brings me to how to train for this route? I think it is really a fitness route for people who can do Mecca. So you need to be quite fit and it was for this reason that over the winter at Stockport wall I trained routes on the plastic (10 tie-ins minimum per session!) as well as regular bouldering sessions. There are 47 moves til the finishing jug (25 for Mecca) so you need something more in reserve than sprinting up Mecca only to slump on the chains.
Evening sessions after work were the key, this way you can get plenty of contact time, which is essential if a project is at your limit. The next problem was getting up Mecca again! I started trying again from the ground after the top pocket on the traverse got frustatingly wet and stayed that way for 3 weeks or so. Progress was slow and I began to fear I was not as strong as 4 year's ago and that I may have blown my chance by not having bouldering enough. Luckily I was wrong and it was a week's rest off the route in flying out to Pisa for a uni mate's wedding that gave me some much needed time off. Doing Full Tilt at Kilnsey last Tues, which I had been trying for years, I knew I felt stronger and this gave me added confidence and psyche.
On Thursday evening I managed to get to the last 2 moves after getting my heel on the flake and getting the next right hand crimp above, so close!! I was mega boxed though and the final British 6a moves to the final jug, which I had never fallen off before, transformed into seemingly impossible barriers and I was off skydiving back into space! 2 days' rest was called for and on the sunday, trying to keep nerves at bay, I set off on my redpoint. This time I was less pumped the whole way on the top section and had something left for the finish. Clipping the chains was a massive buzz I have to say with it being my first 8c. I would recommend the siege of a route at your personal limit to anybody, just as long as you are making progress, however gradual.
So, thanks for sticking with the above ramble and have fun out there, stay psyched!
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 31, 2013, 12:00:50 am
30 October 2013, 11:14 pm
After much effort over the summer putting time into redpoint attempts on Kabaah at Raven Tor (close but no cigar), I travelled out to Smith Rock for a 2.5 week trip in early October and have just got back. I thought I would share some of my experiences in case any brits out there were thinking of making the trip over. It is quite a unique spot out in the wilds of Oregon with an extensive history of both sport and trad climbing. The standout routes there have to be To Bolt or not to Be, the USA's first 5.14a done in 1986 by Jean Baptiste Tribout (only the second in the world after Punks in the Gym in 1985) and of course Just do it, the USA's first 5.14c done by that man again, Jean Baptiste. 'To Bolt' as the locals call it, has always inspired me as a line since I first started climbing as it looks so blank and featureless, the epitome of impossible! I had always fancied checking out To Bolt, although I never dreamt I would ever be able to climb at the required level, 5.14a, it sounds outrageous! I must say, having done Mecca in 2009, and climbed 8b+ I thought perhaps I might be ready to give it a shot.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WS5hGaH5vjs/UnGLCHaoL5I/AAAAAAAAAMA/OXkF7Mk-KWk/s320/P1010212.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WS5hGaH5vjs/UnGLCHaoL5I/AAAAAAAAAMA/OXkF7Mk-KWk/s1600/P1010212.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XG8XgfRmkhw/UnGLQEiOHWI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/oaTQgX1kQp8/s320/P1010210.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XG8XgfRmkhw/UnGLQEiOHWI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/oaTQgX1kQp8/s1600/P1010210.JPG)Peder on To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a
I had been to Smith in August 2007 for a week and for a day in 2009, on a trip which proved to be too cold in December, resulting in me bailing to Bishop. 4 years went by and I realised that it was now or never if I was ever to try this rig. Flights were booked and I found myself setting off down the US26 from Portland, destination Bend. I was incredibly lucky to be hooked up with some of the very friendly and welcoming local climbers by my main man Brian MacAlinden from the Climbing Works so a big holla out to him!! Justin Brown was very kind indeed in putting me up for my whole trip and introducing me to the local scene. This proved invaluable in terms of gleaning beta for the route and for the purposes of spraying and generally hanging out.
So, on my first day, I thought I would do some on-sighting and warm into the style of climbing, no tufas here or kneebars in the Dihedrals! Magic Light 5.11d is a great warmup and then it was straight on to the main event, the magnificent 5.13a Darkness at Noon. What a climb! 35m of relentless edge pulling up a gently overhanging wall, very thin at the start, a chilled out midsection and some steeper cranks up near the belay. This was my first 7c+ onsight so I was chuffed. I managed to follow up with an onsight of Full Heinous Cling, a companion line to Darkness at 5.12c, although several notches easier (I had redpointed the lower halfpitch in 2007). To finish a good first day, I did Karate Wall, a majestic 5.12c, again 35m of endless edges on a gently overhanging wall and then a very stout 5.12a 'Take a Powder', my arms were tired after all that!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YvMBpSVQaYI/UnGKmIAStAI/AAAAAAAAALw/v1Kj1yA0TEU/s320/P1010149.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YvMBpSVQaYI/UnGKmIAStAI/AAAAAAAAALw/v1Kj1yA0TEU/s1600/P1010149.JPG)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wldUCdF8zFU/UnGI0r60RuI/AAAAAAAAALI/vHxXpUPZHgY/s320/P1010130.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wldUCdF8zFU/UnGI0r60RuI/AAAAAAAAALI/vHxXpUPZHgY/s1600/P1010130.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GYLPgwBjBYw/UnGIyAMjqkI/AAAAAAAAALA/NM72_C13Nqk/s320/P1010133.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GYLPgwBjBYw/UnGIyAMjqkI/AAAAAAAAALA/NM72_C13Nqk/s1600/P1010133.JPG)
Full Heinous Cling 5.12c
After a brief look on the first day, on day three, I got down to business and got on To Bolt. There are over 100 moves and it is extremely complex to get it all figured out. It basically boils down to a 10 bolt, 20m 8b+ to a reasonable shake on a good foothold with poor handholds. You are then treated to a pumpy 7c or 5.12d to finish on 5 further, spaced bolts. This is a real test of your ability to hold it together as it is by no means easy and has several very awkward lockoffs, balancy highsteps, foot-changes and cranks for distant edges when pumped out of your brains. People have blown the last moves and indeed have fallen eyeballing the belay, truly heartbreaking for them. There are countless epic tales associated with this route. Sonnie Trotter got through the first 10 bolts only to fall off the last section. He tried to get back up there but could not after repeated efforts and I believe the experience proved so stressful that he quit the route for other projects. This from a climber who has redpointed 9a! (I was actually sat next to Sonnie in the Depot pub chomping on my burger one night, wad point!) Drew Ruana did the route very quickly earlier this year, but bridged out unwittingly into Sunshine Dihedral for a brief rest at the 9th bolt leaving many questioning was this ascent valid? Who knows, opinion is divided, all I know is that the video of him on it is an amazing piece of footage, the dude does not appear to ever get pumped! Paige Classen also crushed the route this year as did some French wads.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OcCS2xrsCg8/UnGLnz6GAHI/AAAAAAAAANY/kJjePJYrKGA/s320/P1010389.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OcCS2xrsCg8/UnGLnz6GAHI/AAAAAAAAANY/kJjePJYrKGA/s1600/P1010389.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IF7G-YWp8ZQ/UnGLiO55QCI/AAAAAAAAANI/c2E-rAaHeP8/s320/P1010383.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IF7G-YWp8ZQ/UnGLiO55QCI/AAAAAAAAANI/c2E-rAaHeP8/s1600/P1010383.JPG) Eric on Karate Wall 5.12c Ryan on Latest Rage 5.12b
So, how did it go? I managed to figure out the extremely thin and crimpy moves up to bolt 9 where there is a good shake before a nails rockover using tiny opposing sidepulls guarding the approach to the resting foothold at the 10th bolt; I also linked some sections together in my first couple of days. I did the 'French Connection', which is Alan Watt's link of Sunshine Dihedral, a tricky 5.12a trad route to the right (we used pre-placed wires) into all of the climbing after the 9th bolt, adding up to a testing 5.13b, or 8a. I also managed to redpoint from the ground to the 6th bolt and then from the 7th bolt to the top. I tried to go from the 6th bolt to the top to bag the coveted 'one hang' ascent but unfortunately, I split a tip on my forefinger halfway through my trip which was a bit of a bummer to say the least. Still, best not to get downhearted, at least it wasn't a finger injury and these things easily happen, especially on a route of this nature. In fact, the locals said the temps were really warm for October, up in the 70's for many days. This only left a brief 2 hour window before darkness in which to try the route. Sometimes, it was too hot even then to bother trying. My skin therefore ground down gradually until I literally saw red! In cold conditions, this would not have been so much of a problem.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AwDQPKxyn1Q/UnGLUqrTZ5I/AAAAAAAAAMY/f2YA4HG8WQs/s320/P1010213.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AwDQPKxyn1Q/UnGLUqrTZ5I/AAAAAAAAAMY/f2YA4HG8WQs/s1600/P1010213.JPG)
Peder on French Connection 5.13b (the last half of To Bolt or not to Be 5.14a)
I tried climbing with tape but it was almost impossible to grip the edges properly. I have therefore resolved to come back in the Spring for a rematch, this route is too good to quit on! The last week was devoted to some fun climbing at a lower grade, which was tape friendly. Still my tip was very painful as it refused to heal properly under the tape with all the edge pulling. Regardless, some stellar classics were bagged including Crossfire 5.12b, Last Waltz 5.12c, the stunning arete left of To Bolt, Go Dog Go, a great 5.12c on a spectacular tower with a dyno at the crux, Watts Tots 5.12b, the USA's first ever sport climb and the Quickening 5.12c, a steep pumper of a line in the Aggro Gully. I also had a protracted tussle with Mama Docus, a really tricky 5.13c in the Aggro Gully, which is much steeper than most routes hereabouts. This one got away unfortunately as I found the crux slap, high on the headwall, pretty hard to stick after all the steep climbing to get there.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8dQMtHwnobU/UnGLJTnek0I/AAAAAAAAAMI/uqZHcslmp48/s320/P1010300.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8dQMtHwnobU/UnGLJTnek0I/AAAAAAAAAMI/uqZHcslmp48/s1600/P1010300.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ff0fBmznf2c/UnGJ22udwNI/AAAAAAAAALQ/ngG0OPVbGnk/s320/P1010184.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ff0fBmznf2c/UnGJ22udwNI/AAAAAAAAALQ/ngG0OPVbGnk/s1600/P1010184.JPG) Jess on Last Waltz 5.12c Mama Docus 5.13c
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FVcEMIa6ask/UnGKWZKXuxI/AAAAAAAAALo/-9hPslJ2nkE/s320/P1010204.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FVcEMIa6ask/UnGKWZKXuxI/AAAAAAAAALo/-9hPslJ2nkE/s1600/P1010204.JPG)
The crux, desparate!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NHnefD3M3kA/UnGLVdC30SI/AAAAAAAAAMg/Qpa_CMpW02I/s320/P1010301.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NHnefD3M3kA/UnGLVdC30SI/AAAAAAAAAMg/Qpa_CMpW02I/s1600/P1010301.JPG)
The thuggy lower section (shared with Aggro Monkey)
Anyway, enough rambling, here are some more photos of the trip, I would thoroughly recommend a trip to anyone, it is really different to Spain and France, the climate is kind, it never rains and the locals are all super-friendly and speak the lingo, whats not to like?! A big shout out to Justin Brown and Andi Renden-Brown and the other locals I spent time with for making my trip so great and for Justin in sending his first 5.14a Badman (by none other than that man again, Jean Baptiste, he gets everywhere!) Oh and if you're out there, try and avoid imbibing too much of the local beer, which I found to my cost can be rather strong at 10%!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pXkhslI04oU/UnGJ3ht1U8I/AAAAAAAAALU/hCpGNyUGyE4/s320/P1010188.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pXkhslI04oU/UnGJ3ht1U8I/AAAAAAAAALU/hCpGNyUGyE4/s1600/P1010188.JPG) Justin on Badman 5.14a
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qvX3dIPi-pk/UnGLlsi27TI/AAAAAAAAANQ/-li_AnZ4EZc/s320/P1010413.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qvX3dIPi-pk/UnGLlsi27TI/AAAAAAAAANQ/-li_AnZ4EZc/s1600/P1010413.JPG)
Last Waltz 5.12c
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t_qv1JOBWTs/UnGKGaEUt_I/AAAAAAAAALg/81cHfuvMG7Q/s320/P1010197.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t_qv1JOBWTs/UnGKGaEUt_I/AAAAAAAAALg/81cHfuvMG7Q/s1600/P1010197.JPG)Justin on Mama Docus
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ehj1s9vIf7U/UnGKy65Y-RI/AAAAAAAAAL4/wn0D18MkNbo/s320/P1010203.JPG)The Mama Docus (off the crux!)
The final moves of Mama Docus (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--jS_ACeijg0/UnGLaSXVD8I/AAAAAAAAAMw/EYtcIQtpOzY/s320/P1010306.JPG)Watts Tots 5.12b
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XRf_qKkz8jI/UnGLYmWbK5I/AAAAAAAAAMo/iA02N1Pa2nU/s320/P1010343.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kQWMxoOoQ4g/UnGLdUXMeLI/AAAAAAAAANA/yA5djvoVu2M/s320/P1010344.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kQWMxoOoQ4g/UnGLdUXMeLI/AAAAAAAAANA/yA5djvoVu2M/s1600/P1010344.JPG)
The crux of Aggro Monkey, keep you eyeballs in their sockets for this move! (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-llzUqGBo8so/UnGLcJrlhRI/AAAAAAAAAM4/sxLUpMSNdco/s1600/P1010303.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-llzUqGBo8so/UnGLcJrlhRI/AAAAAAAAAM4/sxLUpMSNdco/s320/P1010303.JPG)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: ferret on October 31, 2013, 07:18:44 am
i wouldn't encourage people from portland to go to smith, never mind from england!
horses for courses and all that, tis a pretty place, shame its all sharp tweaky vert stuff on frozen mud.
good ticklist for 2 weeks in that place, surprised your skin was't worse
Post by: Fiend on October 31, 2013, 10:42:22 am
Looks an amazing place, would love to go there, I need to get my act together.
Post by: cheque on October 31, 2013, 10:59:02 am
Did you meet my mate Courtney out there?
Post by: Doylo on October 31, 2013, 02:22:05 pm
Post by: Kingy on October 31, 2013, 06:21:36 pm
Post by: Sasquatch on November 01, 2013, 02:44:54 am
Post by: Kingy on November 01, 2013, 02:06:43 pm
to bolt or not to be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uWrLtWB6E4#ws)
Drew Ruana (13) redpointing To Bolt Or Not To Be 14a/8b+ at Smith Rocks, Oregon (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsjIgCOFCo4#)
The moves are surprisingly powerful given that it is 'only' vertical or 1 degree overhanging. They are very complex and the move time you spend on the route the more you learn them and they start to become automatic. You need to be strong though as the move by the 9th bolt is very hard, definitely not one for the stamina plodder, its solid V6 at the very least!! I have a full beta sheet of all the moves I could copy for you if you need? Just PM me. Good luck with it
Post by: JacobJacob on November 01, 2013, 02:53:11 pm
I'd love to have a go at this sometime, when I do I'll come to you for the beta!
Good luck next time.
Post by: JacobJacob on November 01, 2013, 02:59:36 pm
Post by: Sasquatch on November 01, 2013, 03:19:18 pm
Time to start getting fit then as I've years of power built up, but get pumped after 15-20 feet :)
I'm planning a first trip down for it next fall. I'd love to go in the spring, but just don't think it'll happen.
Post by: Kingy on November 01, 2013, 05:51:11 pm
Re Drew Ruana, having done those moves between the 8th and 9th bolts, the standard beta is a massive (but relatively easy) rockover way out left to a distant crimp which he for sure could not have reached. If you look closely in the vid, just before he bridges out onto the sidewall, he grabs some rat crimps that had probably never been pulled on before in order to do the move another way. This naturally led him up and right and close enough to the corner to make bridging a possibility. He appears to only be bridging there because he was led there by the moves rather than actively seeking it for a rest. Without any rules, once a sidewall is so close, why not use it? He only stays there for max 2 seconds and then goes back left to the 9th bolt shakeout rail.
Even his dad says he didn't climb the real line, rather harshly, and there are some people out there with a hard line on this. Others say why not as he didn't rest there much? Should this, or indeed any sport route, be an eliminate? he is obviously capable, if he grew a few inches, of easily crushing it without going near the sidewall (it is only near the 9th bolt where you have any remote option of bridging out and even then you would, without following Drew's new beta, have to go off route to do this). Apparently Drew was only meant to be working the route that go and ended up sending it so the whole thing was rather unexpected for him.
Post by: SA Chris on November 01, 2013, 07:22:26 pm
My style of climbing but I know I'll never do it in a million years. Great effort and shame you got skunked by condition
Post by: Kingy on November 02, 2013, 09:16:51 am
Post by: comPiler on February 09, 2014, 12:00:25 pm
9 February 2014, 9:37 am
With the crappy weather that we are having, now seems to be a good time to take stock of unfinished business from last year and future projects for the coming limestone season. When you are pushing your limits redpointing, it seems inevitable that you will collect a number 'works in progress' as you go along, otherwise you wouldn't be trying hard enough, right? The question is, where do you draw the line given the available resources you have in the form of time, motivation, strength and dry rock? Some people seem able to have projects hanging over them for years and years. I remember Paul Reeve showing me the moves on Full Tilt 8b back in 2006 and looking very strong on it. It wasn't until a few years later that his well-deserved tick came= due to the propensity of the crag to resemble a waterfall most of the year.
Using this as inspiration I have tried to not be too bothered by unfinished routes, as long as the list doesn't get too long! I managed to knock a couple of long term projects off my list last year namely Full Tilt and another 8b at Malham, Idefix, so was chuffed with that. I think managing to get a few percent stronger and fitter made all the difference and also Full Tilt drying out sufficiently was obviously crucial (potential aspirants to this and the extension, True North, would readily agree with this!) So, it is possible to dig deep and get shot of those so called 'bogey routes' with sufficient application.
My unfinished list at the moment is about as long as I would want it to get so I had better pull my finger out in the spring! I haven't included routes where I have only been up them once or twice for the purposes of assessing the moves with a view to maybe seriously attempting them (Cry Freedom and True North would fall into this category). That is not to say these routes won't go into the 'ticked' or 'unfinished' categories at some point in the future!
Unfinished Routes
Kabaah 8c+ (Raven Tor)
To Bolt or not to Be 8b+
Mama Docus 8a+ (Smith Rock)
Migranya 8b (Suirana)
The Inch Test 8a+ (Rubicon, the Upper Circle)
Barracuda 8b (Rubicon)
Gonads 8a+ (Two Tier Buttress)
Freedom Fighter 8a+ (Chimes extension)
Unfinished Boulder problems
Drink Driving V12 (Pill Box)
Hatch Life High V11
Hatchatrocity V11 (Parisella's Cave)
The Joker V11 (Stanage)
Domes Sit Start V9 (Rowtor)
Tarantula V9 (Nuda's Tartan)
Right now, I'm training in the Cave on saturdays to keep up the power endurance and doing lots of routes at the wall, with one bouldering session per week and a separate pullup/fingerboarding session. Its hard to train to be fit and strong at the same time but hopefully it will pay off. The danger is that you feel overtrained all the time and not at full strength when trying projects at the weekend (eg. in the cave). This has certainly been the case the last few weekends in the Cave but I'm hoping that it will be worth it and adaptation to a higher training load will happen. The theory being that when you do eventually take 2 or 3 days rest, you'll be ripping heads off! I'm suffering a bit with some bad skin splits in my finger joints which don't seem to go away for weeks and which have made it difficult to climb to full potential outside at times. These should be got rid of soon with any luck. I also seemed to have quite a sore right bicep coming back from Suirana a month ago but this now seems to have settled down, fingers crossed. This is the first year I have purposely decided to go indoors on sundays to do routes instead of taking my chances at Minus Ten in the drizzle or some other damp hole. Perhaps less character building but maybe of more training benefit, who knows!
I leave you with a link from the Pill Box which I first did in 2009 but repeated the other day, no better venue for fingery power endurance in January.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8cKq4SGI9KA/UvdKYeJpb7I/AAAAAAAAANs/hMomphgQyHo/s1600/Malteser%252C+Last+Orders+V10.wmv) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8cKq4SGI9KA/UvdKYeJpb7I/AAAAAAAAANs/hMomphgQyHo/s1600/Malteser%252C+Last+Orders+V10.wmv)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on April 28, 2014, 01:01:54 am
27 April 2014, 11:19 pm
Hi folks, well I've been back from Smith for nearly a month and the trip has just about sunk in. It was an amazing experience being out there again and must better temperatures for climbing than when I was last out there in October. I was a bit smarter with my fingertips climbing only every other day, given the unique problems for skin that To Bolt or Not Be, the USA's first 5.14a first climbed in 1986 by Jean Baptiste Tribout, poses. I think it was the first time ever I have taken a rest day on my second day of a climbing trip, unheard of! I had written all of the moves down since the last trip (and obsessed over them in every waking moment!) so remembering them would hopefully not be a problem. All my training was done, I don't think I had skipped a saturday in Parisella's Cave since New Year often in the grimmest of weather and the routes at Stockport Wall had taken a pounding in long training sessions with my climbing partner Ant.
So this 2 week trip was time to execute something which I already knew very well; it came down to a brutal 100 move fitness equation. I was a bit worried that my only recent time on real rock had been doing multiple attempts on Hatch Life High in the Cave and most of my climbing had been done on plastic. However, luckily the feeling of some of my friends saying 'you get nowhere training on routes indoors' proved to be illfounded. A pump is a pump, no matter where you're training!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ed3EMO8enwA/U12KCeW-UaI/AAAAAAAAAPs/PKcOSdMTgFI/s1600/5.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ed3EMO8enwA/U12KCeW-UaI/AAAAAAAAAPs/PKcOSdMTgFI/s1600/5.JPG)Crag scene - Greg, Tara and Andrew
Anyway, a bit of background about the route and my involvement with it. When I was a kid, one of my first books about rock climbing by John Long called 'How to Rock Climb' had a picture of Ron Kauk (who got the 2nd American ascent in 1988 after Scott Franklin's first) crimping up this incredible vertical wall of volcanic tuff on what appeared to be nothing holds. I was amazed how he could cling onto that face and how long and sustained it looked. I was only climbing VS at the time so the thought of actually climbing this route never crossed my mind. Nevertheless, the seed was planted and as I started sportclimbing and got through some of the grades, I started to wonder if I might someday have a go myself. Visiting Smith in 2007 for the first time, I got to see the climb and was suitably impressed, it looked just as blank as it did in my book. Seeing awesome pictures of Jerry Moffat on the 3rd ascent in 1988 and hearing tales of Steve McClure's near onsight in 2000 only stoked my desire to get involved. Doing Mecca at Raven Tor, a route with the same grade of 5.14a/ 8b+ in 2009 gave me the confidence to believe I could perhaps do it and actually was the reason I flew out there at short notice that year in December, only to find it was far too cold to attempt! (A productive trip to Bishop ensued instead).
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-61BC9JJ0yzY/U12D9V8paMI/AAAAAAAAAOc/5Mah6N3Qoeo/s1600/8.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-61BC9JJ0yzY/U12D9V8paMI/AAAAAAAAAOc/5Mah6N3Qoeo/s1600/8.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8nGjeiO07lg/U12EQxmxsAI/AAAAAAAAAOs/MrmCPxR8nBE/s1600/6.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8nGjeiO07lg/U12EQxmxsAI/AAAAAAAAAOs/MrmCPxR8nBE/s1600/6.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rZFM0roX6SY/U12EBHnOiZI/AAAAAAAAAOk/i3ko9DqVwlM/s1600/14.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rZFM0roX6SY/U12EBHnOiZI/AAAAAAAAAOk/i3ko9DqVwlM/s1600/14.JPG)
Some different views of the Beast!
I guess the route had always been in the back of my mind so I could come 'full circle' and be like Ron Kauk in that picture in my old climbing book. Funny where inspiration comes from, but best not to fight it, go with the flow! Its a fair point that Smith is 1000's of miles away from the UK and there are many other worthy routes in the UK and Spain/ France of a similar grade but really it is only a 10 hour flight and with routes this classic, I didn't really care about the logistics so much, just getting to try the thing was the main deal for me. My preferred climbing style is faces so where better place to indulge this than Smith!
Since last October, I have been lucky enough to have met some amazing people in Bend without whom I could never have dreamt of fulfilling my goal being a Brit travelling out here without a climbing partner - Andi and Justin, Andrew Hunzicker (who will get his To Bolt send real soon I'm sure), Nathan, Sierra, Peder and Jess, Ian and Kristin and many of the other locals too numerous to mention but you know who you are! Your support is greatly appreciated! When I come back next year, I hope to enlist some fellow Brits, if I can tempt any away from UK lime...
So, how did the route go? On my first day, I knew this would be a strong indicator of how the my chances were. The first time up, all the moves felt desparate! but thankfully I was not properly warmed up and on the next go, I toproped up to the 4th clip without getting pumped and I knew in my mind that it was on. The route itself is characterised by very sustained climbing on moves which are never easy but typically in the V3 - V6 range individually. Here are pics of some of the lower moves. They say the route contains in one route the crux moves of all of the other routes in the Dihderals, which seems fair. A 5.13 crux every other bolt for 14 bolts would be another way of describing it. Having the necessary fitness level is key to success as without it you have no chance of linking it all together so in a way the battle is won or lost before you even arrive, a motivating thought if ever there was one!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DWmiZrhlinI/U12GM9zExjI/AAAAAAAAAPA/5QAt6y-ZEWg/s1600/10.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DWmiZrhlinI/U12GM9zExjI/AAAAAAAAAPA/5QAt6y-ZEWg/s1600/10.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p5fEXvC8NHM/U12HbmnYMJI/AAAAAAAAAPY/T4SRP4GVGW8/s1600/7.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p5fEXvC8NHM/U12HbmnYMJI/AAAAAAAAAPY/T4SRP4GVGW8/s1600/7.jpg) First hard moves by the 3rd
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gM4DR-Fm4KI/U12GWfy4TjI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/if3DCiMlM74/s1600/11.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gM4DR-Fm4KI/U12GWfy4TjI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/if3DCiMlM74/s1600/11.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GdJxm07NUOA/U12GNNcPoPI/AAAAAAAAAPE/zDEQnVBLVIk/s1600/12.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GdJxm07NUOA/U12GNNcPoPI/AAAAAAAAAPE/zDEQnVBLVIk/s1600/12.jpg) The 4th bolt stretch right Tiny crimps at the 5th
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sEKZSiycEPE/U12GW0n3iTI/AAAAAAAAAPU/zC_2XQy3EwM/s1600/13.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sEKZSiycEPE/U12GW0n3iTI/AAAAAAAAAPU/zC_2XQy3EwM/s1600/13.jpg)
Gaston at the 7th
On my second day of attempts, I managed to get through to above the 8th bolt and nearly to the first good shakeout at the 9th bolt which was a massive breakthrough as I had not got past the 6th bolt from the ground on my last trip. I knew I was feeling fitter than last time. On the 3rd day, I got to the 9th bolt shake for the first time and shook out well. I attacked the redpoint crux on two opposing razorblade sidepulls (see pic below), which is definitely the hardest move on the route, albeit straight after a reasonable shake.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jW4IEuCoZi8/U11-G0Dql1I/AAAAAAAAAOM/pwCgroXVl5I/s1600/9.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jW4IEuCoZi8/U11-G0Dql1I/AAAAAAAAAOM/pwCgroXVl5I/s1600/9.jpg)
The crux after the 9th bolt
I couldn't believe I got through this compression move to the next thumb sprag but my foot then greased out of the polished dish I had been using for a foothold on my linkage attempts. I was gutted as both my belayer Andrew and I thought that this was it, the send go! We were buzzing and gutted at the same time when I lowered off. On my next attempts on my 4th day on the route this trip, I should have done it and as I had had 2 full rest days (including one doing the classic 3 pitch 'Zebra Zion 5.10' with Justin). Unfortunately, conditions were pretty warm, even at 7pm when I set off on my second go of the day. Getting to the 10th bolt shakeout for the first time from the ground was a huge moment and I was clinging on there barely able to control the tantalizing thought that only 5 bolts of easier 5.12d/7c climbing separated me from achieving my dream route.
Scott Franklin had said that anybody who makes it to the 10th shouldn't fall there as you can shake anywhere, all I can say is that it depends how fit you are! I couldn't believe it when I dropped it at the 12th bolt at the final tricky rockover move before easier 5.11 climbing through the final 2 bolts. I was just so flamed but discovered that I was outstaying my welcome at the shakes and getting even more pumped in the process. On my 5th day this trip, halving my rest times to just over a minute at the 9th and 10th shakes made a huge difference (I am not one of those climbers who spend 20 minutes camping out at the 10th bolt!), as did refining some microbeta on that final rockover at the 12th. The send came on a much colder, crisper day and even though I had only had 1 day off after the previous massive day getting high on 2 separate occasions, I had now reached the level needed to do the route and it thankfully all clicked into place. Even the final moves were spooky and hard and there are climbers who have fallen even higher than me so beware of relaxing until its all over. Clipping the chain was an amazing feeling and a big relief as I only had 3 days left of the trip and the time pressure to send had been starting to mount. It was awesome too that earlier that day, Andi sent her long term project, Disposable Heroes 5.13b, in Aggro Gully as a surprise send, way to go. Time for a beer and burger in Redmond!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5rhkLKHnuPw/U12Pm-1_ODI/AAAAAAAAAQE/gMlxUqs3laU/s1600/16.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5rhkLKHnuPw/U12Pm-1_ODI/AAAAAAAAAQE/gMlxUqs3laU/s1600/16.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GRBVutQ8ynI/U12PXXiakAI/AAAAAAAAAP8/46_Z42opG1E/s1600/15.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GRBVutQ8ynI/U12PXXiakAI/AAAAAAAAAP8/46_Z42opG1E/s1600/15.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvGv54unIiw/U12JYwWVXsI/AAAAAAAAAPk/z2-IJPMIb0Y/s1600/17.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvGv54unIiw/U12JYwWVXsI/AAAAAAAAAPk/z2-IJPMIb0Y/s1600/17.JPG)
I will leave you with the video of the route I made, I hope it helps any aspirant To Bolters out there! Thanks for all the encouragement from everybody. Good luck and onto the next chapter!
https://vimeo.com/92349114 (https://vimeo.com/92349114)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: tomtom on April 28, 2014, 06:51:21 am
Post by: Fiend on April 28, 2014, 10:52:07 am
Post by: davej on April 28, 2014, 11:36:16 am
Post by: flyguy on April 28, 2014, 12:48:09 pm
Post by: cheque on April 28, 2014, 01:41:15 pm
Post by: petejh on April 28, 2014, 03:00:40 pm
Post by: comPiler on July 01, 2014, 01:01:49 am
30 June 2014, 9:32 pm
For the past 3 months since coming back from Smith Rock, a large number of my climbing days at the weekends have been spent up at Malham getting stuck into 2 routes in particular, Bat Route and Unjustified. Having ticked Bat Route in May and Unjustfied on Sunday, I thought I would share my experiences of both for those who are interested.
After finally ticking Idefix 8b last summer (the extension to Free and Even Easier and one of the catwalk's more desparate lines), I was finally free to try one of the famous routes breaching the bulges over the catwalk. It seems like some of the mystique surrounding these routes may have been dispelled in the last 5 years with the increase in the number of ascents made. I remember 2 or 3 years ago, an ascent of either Bat Route or Unjustified was front page news but now this is no longer the case. I am sure this is due to overall standards rising in the climbing community which is a great thing. With each successive ascent, more climbers become inspired to try them, which in turn leads to even more ticks. Just getting on and trying these things can be half the battle at times; if you don't have a go you'll never know!
So, off the back of my States trip I was keen to use the fitness that I had gained from trying To Bolt or not to Be and to see how Bat Route and Unjustified compared. They are of a similar length and style, and although not as sustained, they are a bit steeper with distinct cruxes. I was in two minds as to whether to try Cry Freedom as I had had 2 days on that in 2011 but heading out with Keefe Murphy who was trying Bat Route and with Cry Freedom being wet, I was persuaded to try the former. Cry Freedom is still a goal of mine, maybe when the midgies have finished taking chunks out of us...!
Bat Route is a magnificent 35m route with a unique combination of power moves, good rests and contrasting climbing styles involving wall climbing, steep roofs and powerful undercutting through bulges. The grade maths is a 7b (Seventh Aardvark) to probably a V8 or so to a big hole where you can get a hands off kneebar rest and then a sustained 8a+ to the top with 2 more good rests. The top crux on the final, gently overhanging wall is hard on some tiny crimps but I managed to find a really good way past this bit involving a wide bridge, which took the sting out of it.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dGxZGmhVZyM/U7G1g3M6mgI/AAAAAAAAAQw/WCNmCSPh-hg/s1600/IMG52667.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dGxZGmhVZyM/U7G1g3M6mgI/AAAAAAAAAQw/WCNmCSPh-hg/s1600/IMG52667.JPG)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--_80LwHEnQ8/U7G0UB1uBNI/AAAAAAAAAQg/g5ZGvZj5Kmg/s1600/IMG52666CROP2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--_80LwHEnQ8/U7G0UB1uBNI/AAAAAAAAAQg/g5ZGvZj5Kmg/s1600/IMG52666CROP2.jpg) Egyptian to get the 3rd undercut Eyeing up the 4th undercut
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kCA-oMebb8g/U7G0fnkZUSI/AAAAAAAAAQo/Oi3eNbwEWUA/s1600/IMG52670.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kCA-oMebb8g/U7G0fnkZUSI/AAAAAAAAAQo/Oi3eNbwEWUA/s1600/IMG52670.JPG) Taking the 4th undercut
The real battle for me turned out to be getting through the roof above Seventh Aardvark from the ground. The moves through the roof involve really powerful undercutting of 4 crimpy undercuts leading to a gnarly tooth/ crimp for the right hand just before the hole. In the end, keeping my left foot a little lower for the move to the tooth took some of the power out of it and after 7 or 8 sessions I finally made it to the hole in a oner.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RzJuvYHUcwU/U7G586N-XmI/AAAAAAAAARE/bzuzQpUL6Po/s1600/IMG52685.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RzJuvYHUcwU/U7G586N-XmI/AAAAAAAAARE/bzuzQpUL6Po/s1600/IMG52685.JPG) Leaving the second hole
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SDqyTnx-AC0/U7G6S1QH4-I/AAAAAAAAARM/k1IaYf6fOds/s1600/IMG52687.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SDqyTnx-AC0/U7G6S1QH4-I/AAAAAAAAARM/k1IaYf6fOds/s1600/IMG52687.JPG) Tricky moves leading to the 3rd rest
Had the upper part of the route not been totally wet that day, I reckon I would have been in with a good shout of doing it as I had by that stage got the top part pretty wired and would do it cleanly at the end of every session. However, this is UK sport climbing we're talking about (!) and I had to wait a week for the route to dry for my chance to seal the deal. It went down on a much drier saturday the following weekend. A pint in the Buck inn followed (remember those, alcoholic drinks!?) which went down particularly nicely if I recall.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hVNuhaNbM4s/U7G6Ux4BThI/AAAAAAAAARU/UepkUUZivBY/s1600/P1010845.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hVNuhaNbM4s/U7G6Ux4BThI/AAAAAAAAARU/UepkUUZivBY/s1600/P1010845.JPG)The upper crux on crimps
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qQ7kygUPKSs/U7G6d_DrfbI/AAAAAAAAARk/7H6cJBHwcyU/s1600/P1010847.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qQ7kygUPKSs/U7G6d_DrfbI/AAAAAAAAARk/7H6cJBHwcyU/s1600/P1010847.JPG)The last shakeout, don't blow it here!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5t5XEkJgMwk/U7G6mMRzI8I/AAAAAAAAARs/2GAIoNH9DBw/s1600/P1010850.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5t5XEkJgMwk/U7G6mMRzI8I/AAAAAAAAARs/2GAIoNH9DBw/s1600/P1010850.JPG)The final 5b moves, beer time!
Hungry for the next route, I got on Unjustified within an hour of clipping the chains of Bat Route, why hang about! Now this route is a very different animal to the latter one, being more of a true stamina route rather than series of desparate boulder problems between jug rests masquerading as a fitness route. On Unjustified, although the moves through the bulge are easier (V6 max) you have to keep climbing to survive with virtually no rest anywhere on the headwall. Perpetual motion is your only hope! In fact there is barely anywhere to stop and clip other than at 2 decent holds out right halfway up. Something Stupid seems significantly harder than Seventh Aardvark to me for 7b and the fact that there is no shakeout on it at the chains makes it particularly pumpy leading into the crux moves over the bulge. It took several sessions before I felt like I had much to give on the crux after trying the whole route from the ground.
Linking through the crux to the top is about 8a but unfortunately, the bolt after the crux needs repositioning as you have a nightmarish long draw to reach up and clip which, because of the steep angle of the rock, hangs out over a foot into space, so it is almost behind your head when you try and clip it. If the bolt was repositioned lower at chest height then the clip would be easier, although still hard I bet, and the whole route would be a much safer and and more approachable proposition. However, bolting costs time which most time starved rock activists don't have much of (lame sounding I know) so this less than ideal setup will remain until somebody does something about it.
Anway, after speaking to the catwalk regulars about this nightmare clip, it appeared that they fell into 2 camps, those electing to clip it or skip it. Twice on the first session I made it through the crux to this clip only to barely get my rope in the draw and then slump onto it pumped stupid in a jibbering heap. When I thought about it, as you are pulling through armfulls of slack in a ridulously strenuous position, why not just climb past it then reach down and left to clip it from the rest out right? Only a the prospect of a 25 footer to focus the mind! I road tested the fall twice on my next visit to the crag and the results are in the following clip:
UNJUSTIFIED - 25 FOOT FALL FROM AFTER THE CRUX
https://vimeo.com/99562067
Its actually a pretty soft (although massive!) fall and you end up around the 3rd bolt of Something Stupid although when I got a move higher the next go, I fell a bit more awkwardly and ended up grazing my hip against the rock a bit, take care out there kids! As is usual with these things, the buildup in the mind is worse than actually taking the ride.
After considering that I may have been held back mentally from commiting to the redpoint crux leading to the rest being so runout, I decided to just go for it. After a 2 week break while the route was wet and a period spent on other projects at the Tor, I came back and it felt a different ballgame. Such a great feeling to come back to the scene of a previous failure and then cruise past it fully in control - this is what redpointing is all about, the moments we train for. Here is the footage of my successful attempt - (I elected to to do 'Overjustified' and finish up the 7a+ extension 'Dudley Do Good', which is really no harder than Unjustified but a fun workout nonetheless).
THE SEND OF OVERJUSTIFIED!
https://vimeo.com/99479012
Footnote on grades - I guess no blog about Bat Route or Unjustified would be complete without an assessment of the grades of both. From having climbed both within 6 weeks of each other, I would say that Bat Route is a fair bit harder for me as a stamina climber as I found the roof section so hard. However, power climbers I know seem to really struggle on the top wall on the link, which I could get through every time. To me, this route was easier overall than Mecca Extension but just about 8c for the difficulty of the crux moves. Ondra seems to question on his 8a.nu scorecard whether an upgrade from 8b+ was really warranted since the first ascent. Although a good hold has come off where the tooth now is and the midsection is now climbed more direct due to the loss of an undercut out right, is this enough to bump it up by a full letter grade?...maybe.
Regarding the grade of Unjustified, I reckon this must be 8b+ as although it is undoubtedly sustained, the moves are not hard enough in my opinion for the route to be graded the magic grade of 8c. Also, is it as hard as To Bolt or Not to Be, a confirmed (although tough) 5.14a (8b+) of a comparable (pure fitness) style? - the answer is no, it is fair bit easier I reckon.
So there we have it, the number crunching is done, don't let this put you off the sheer quality of both routes, Bat Route in particular is world class. All aspirant ascentionists, get to it!!
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on August 17, 2014, 01:00:42 pm
17 August 2014, 7:50 am
Six weeks have gone by since I completed my long term project Kaabah at Raven Tor and the whole thing has now sunk in. I have since been ticking some easier routes for a bit of variety and have also been on an awesome 2 week trip to the Alps around Chamonix. This required doing a few days of trad at Gogarth, Millstone and Stoney to get back into placing wires and cams, which was thoroughly enjoyable after so much time spent at the Tor.
I started trying Kaabah on the same day I clipped the chains of the Extension back in June last year. It felt like the logical next step to make use of the fitness gained in trying a similar route but even harder! While the Extension stacks an 8a on top of an 8b+ with two very good rests, Kaabah has significantly harder climbing (8a+) leaving Mecca just before its belay and then rejoining the Extension from below in the middle of its final traverse right, with only a poorer, single resting spot in a 'niche' high up on the wall. I knew this was going to push me to the limit when I began trying it but resolved that as long as I continued to see progress I would stick with it as it would be amazing to do such a cool 'directissima' on Mecca, taking the route to its ultimate conclusion.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9F7COtVgM78/U-_AOrfYAII/AAAAAAAAASo/YDf6nU5IvDE/s1600/P1010894.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9F7COtVgM78/U-_AOrfYAII/AAAAAAAAASo/YDf6nU5IvDE/s1600/P1010894.JPG) The Mecca Crux (Video Still)
Early Days
I initially spent some time working out different methods for the very thin moves leaving the rest and studied the few videos of the route. I couldn't touch Steve's ultracrimpy method, its nails! Alex and Ryan's way going straight for the base of the Extension flake with the right hand was too reachy so I managed to work out a way pressing out left at the limit of my reach off a nasty thumb sprag to the 'car body filler' undercut of the Extension (don't ask!) I even managed to link to the base of the Extension Flake from the base of the Mecca groove using this early method before realising that by instead pulling on one of the tiny footholds of the Extension slightly higher up with my right hand the move was made a bit easier, although its still a very fickle customer in the wrong conditions. With my new sequence, although you are able to join the Extension a move earlier than either of Steve's or Alex's method's, you still have work to do as you are pretty stretched out and need to semi-dynamically flick you right hand into the tiny black sidepull used on the Extension once you have gained the left hand undercut (which is an extremely precarious move and requires you to drill you right toe into a tiny dink by your feet which is barely visible as you are pasted to the wall and can't easily spy your footholds). After repeated work, I was able to reliably climb from the niche to the Extension belay as part of my warm up on the route. This was the first time I had worked out a new method on a climb for myself so I was quite satisfied with the whole process.
Now just the link in of Mecca to go, easier said than done! In July last year I started the process of linking in sections of Mecca from successively lower stages (i.e. first the belay then the base of the groove by the 5th blot then from the 3rd bolt by the big pocket). This adds a lot of pump to the upper 8a+ as I soon found. Before I was able to complete the key link from the 3rd bolt to the top, I got sucked into trying it from the ground, perhaps too early as this year it seemed that just knowing that you have completed this major link makes a big difference mentally. Progress came incrementally and last summer it turned into a war of attrition. Every saturday morning I would be there for another attempt and eventually got to the stage where I managed to join the Extension from the ground, although in a stage of terminal pump. I tried everything from gaffa taping the final clip into the rock to even using a fluorescent orange sticky tab to mark the hard-to-spot foothold.
On this route you only get very small windows for success as firstly you have to get yourself up Mecca every time. Then you need to be firing on all cylinders for the top wall so just scraping up Mecca is not enough, you need to own every hold and get to the rest with something left in the tank. On too many attempts I arrived at the shakeout with very little or nothing left to give to the top moves. They felt completely desparate from the ground and I found it was pretty much irrelevant how good they felt on the warmup. I got to the stage in August where I was fighting for extra individual moves on each successive visit, pushing my highpoint gradually upwards and routinely trying the hardest I have ever fought on a rock climb. Still, I was making some limited progress, enough to entice me to keep coming back for more.
The Falls
The moves on the top wall are so sustained that I found no place where you could stop and clip a bolt between the one you clip at the resting niche and the next one, which is a fair way above. There is the old 'bean can' aid bolt inbetween which offers a possibility for clipping an intermediate bolt in the middle of the upper crux. This can be backed up with a long sling but I found that this drained power at a crucial stage so rather than diminishing my chances, I decided to press on and embrace taking the ride! If you fall off on the moves getting both hands on the Extension flake you will take up to a 25 footer (hard grit comes to the lime!) Don't let this put you off though as it is actually an alright fall if you take care to stay balanced, don't tense up and get a nice soft catch - I must have taken this fall over 30 times so I guess I have road tested it!
In order to clip the next bolt after the niche, you must get both hands on the Extension flake and then, (as per the front cover of Alastair Lee's DVD 'Psyche') take you right hand off to quickly drop the rope into the draw. I found that as the bolt was so close in this position, it was easier to use a single crab. This feels the living end from the ground as all your muscles are screaming for you to let go and end the agony! It feels the easiest thing in the world just to grab the draw and give up!
The Big Fall! Attempt 24 June 2014
Failure
After 14 times reaching the resting niche or higher from the ground in August and September, on my best attempt I got to the move shared with the Extension where you have to put your right heel really high up on the flake while compressing between opposing sidepulls in order to reach up for higher crimps and easier moves leading to the final jugs. I probably only had 1% power left to give and remember squeezing like crazy between the flake with my right hand and the tiny high sidepull for my left hand. I briefly thought this was it, the time I was going to do it (a mistake in retrospect). Then dismayingly my heel refused to go any higher up to the flake as my arms gave out and I was off plummeting back into the void. Close but no cigar!
This last attempt proved to be my best go of the year and due to evening sessions on the route running out in late August, I was never able to regain this highpoint despite quite a few more attempts. I had a trip to Smith Rock planned in the last 2 weeks of October so resolved to get it bagged on my return but unfortunately the crag started seeping, which stopped everybody's campaigns on their projects for the year.
2014 - A Fresh Approach
A return trip to Smith Rocks in March proving the key to getting the monkey off my back. I felt a different climber this year, fitter from multiple laps on many 7b's and 7b+'s at Stockport but probably less strong from doing less bouldering. Ticking To Bolt or Not to Be at Smith was a great confidence booster and although it is a different beast to Kaabah being less steep but with twice as many moves, it provided a great foundation to work from. I had to bide my time up in Yorkshire in April and early May while the route dried out. Eventually the niche dried out enough to allow redpoint attempts. Crucially I managed to do the 3rd bolt to top link in late June, which I then managed on three other occasions. All I needed to do now was get up Mecca again.
Link from the 3rd bolt to the Top - 1 July 2014
I was also trying to gain more fitness on Kristian's excellent 7c 'Resistance', which is the finish to either Mark Tomlinson's 'Resistance is Futile' 8a+ or a new linkup I did 'Chimes of Resistance' 8b and is conveniently placed just above and to the right of the Extension loweroff. I found that this provided a crucial extra few percent of stamina. Frustratingly in late June/early July, I had 3 or 4 sessions where I couldn't get up the big M. However, I knew I could do it, it was a just a matter of time before I could stick the crux of Mecca gaining the horn - get working your left hand deadhangs for this move!
The Send
The day I did it I had actually had two previous unsuccessful attempts at getting through Mecca. I tried from the ground for a third time more as a matter of routine than anything else but was very relieved when I finally held the horn and then gained the kneebar in the groove. I knew I had a good chance even though the day was getting on and the air temperature was warming up. Arriving in the niche, I remembered not to outstay my welcome and pressed on up the sidepulls and gastons. The moves leading to the Extension flake and making the next clip felt good and in control although I could tell I had only a small margin for error. This time on the compression move was payback time and I was able to get my right heel up just fine, no terminal pump this time round. The last few moves passed in a blur and before I knew it I was hanging off the final jugs shouting for joy. The finish up Resistance felt hard but a fitting finish to create a new linkup 'Kaabah is Futile', no change in grade, just more pump!
It was great to finish this project and finally be free from something that badly needed finishing off. So, onto the next project, good luck with all your sends out there, there is an end to all redpoint sagas...eventually!
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: highrepute on August 17, 2014, 08:53:51 pm
Post by: comPiler on October 04, 2014, 01:01:35 am
3 October 2014, 10:12 pm
In August I took a two week trip to Chamonix to attempt a long term ambition of trying the Grand Capucin, an immaculate spire of golden granite near Mont Blanc rising above the Glacier du Geant to a height of 3,838m. Ever since I went to Chamonix on trips as a student in 1997, 98 and 99, I had a dream of climbing the Grand Capucin. A trip out in the summer of 2010 with friends from Jersey was blighted by poor weather and another chance slipped by. So maybe fifth time lucky! This trip, the dream team comprised of my good friends John, Ryan and Duncan.
After a few sessions at Stoney, Millstone and Gogarth dusting down the wires following a lengthy absence from traditional climbing, we began to get a bit of the trad flow back and it was time to practise these skills on the larger canvas that the mountain routes on the granite peaks around Chamonix offer. For me, while I had been doing a lot of sport climbing lately, I have been on a fair few alpine trips in the past, including a successful trip to the Dolomites in the summer of 2009 when Ben Heason and I managed to free climb Attraverso il Pesce or 'The Fish', a classic 14 pitch E6 on the south Face of the Marmolada. Big peaks like the Grand Capucin don't climb themselves and I realised that if I was ever to achieve my goal, it had better be right now!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XD7HK_d_qjE/VC7x5zLhNnI/AAAAAAAAATY/OS85NVVvsM4/s1600/P1030016.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XD7HK_d_qjE/VC7x5zLhNnI/AAAAAAAAATY/OS85NVVvsM4/s1600/P1030016.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KNj-l_8aOXk/VC7w3Zi6ZpI/AAAAAAAAATQ/cRCnqbSjABM/s1600/photo+4.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KNj-l_8aOXk/VC7w3Zi6ZpI/AAAAAAAAATQ/cRCnqbSjABM/s1600/photo+4.JPG) Pre-alpine training - London Wall E5 6b at Millstone The Cruise E5 E5 Gogarth Upper TierAfter a solid 18 hour journey from Nottingham (nice one for driving us all there non-stop John!), we set up base camp in the Ile des Barrats campsite just outside Cham. The next morning we caught the first 'phrique up to the Midi Plan intent on bagging the Aigulle du Peigne via its famous slabby north face. Unfortunately the first day up in the hills brought it home how wet the summer had been. The slabs were completely soaked and we had to abandon this plan in favour of the Red Pillar of the Aiguille de Blatiere. John and I bagged 'Deux Goals' 7a, a cracking, short 5 pitch line that involved plenty of jamming in wet, strenuous cracks!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dYI-n41_Pyw/VC7_9AyYB5I/AAAAAAAAAWY/wb39-DTt8aA/s1600/P1030027.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dYI-n41_Pyw/VC7_9AyYB5I/AAAAAAAAAWY/wb39-DTt8aA/s1600/P1030027.JPG)
Deux Goals 7a, (pitch 1), Aiguille de Blatiere
Next up was an expedition up to the Envers Hut above the Mer de Glace. This was the only time we stayed in an alpine hut and it was a true pleasure to spend 3 nights in such a remote shelter perched precariously on a little rock shoulder under the towering granite needles of the Aiguille de Roc and the Pointes des Nantillons. I suffered mightily on the 3.5 hour walk in up endless iron ladders with my sport climbers pigeon legs! Routes bagged here by John and I were 'L'Age de Homme', an 11 pitch 6c ending on the 1st Pointe des Nantillons which was a warmup to the distinctly stiffer 'Pyramide' 7a, a more well known Michel Piola classic on an asthetic buttress right of the seminal route 'Children of the Moon', which Ryan and Duncan did on the same day.
Pyramide offered a short, sharp crux section followed by some 'meat and potatoes' jamming work in some straight in hand jamming cracks following by a delicate, exposed step out left onto an arete on the second hardest pitch, which John fired off despite the wet conditions. At the base of the second tower, a burly hand and fist crack graded a stern 6b+ led to easier ground and the summit.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wH5-AlYhdyM/VC73utrM0-I/AAAAAAAAATo/AsOMkJ0kBTs/s1600/P1030036.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wH5-AlYhdyM/VC73utrM0-I/AAAAAAAAATo/AsOMkJ0kBTs/s1600/P1030036.JPG) Classic pose at Montenvers
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJr4z6gRzvg/VC732QGoWFI/AAAAAAAAATw/tiAmA-Tm5kw/s1600/P1030054.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJr4z6gRzvg/VC732QGoWFI/AAAAAAAAATw/tiAmA-Tm5kw/s1600/P1030054.JPG) The Mer de Glace
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ln0h1t4Wi8c/VC7361ujuVI/AAAAAAAAAT4/8lfT4TExw6E/s1600/P1030056.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ln0h1t4Wi8c/VC7361ujuVI/AAAAAAAAAT4/8lfT4TExw6E/s1600/P1030056.JPG) View towards the Deant du Geant and the Seracs du Geant from L'Age de Homme 6c, 1st Pointe des Nantillons
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLf0_iIVCmk/VC74JNUPt4I/AAAAAAAAAUA/0rLj28gxycY/s1600/P1030083.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLf0_iIVCmk/VC74JNUPt4I/AAAAAAAAAUA/0rLj28gxycY/s1600/P1030083.JPG) Pyramide 7a (pitch 4), Aiguille de Roc
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gY0YN0FIsks/VC74Rw5JIVI/AAAAAAAAAUI/KIZTdzL7Nl8/s1600/P1030085.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gY0YN0FIsks/VC74Rw5JIVI/AAAAAAAAAUI/KIZTdzL7Nl8/s1600/P1030085.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VqrxO9NcVZ4/VC7_xSjpFbI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/_hMae5eLCz4/s1600/P1030092.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VqrxO9NcVZ4/VC7_xSjpFbI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/_hMae5eLCz4/s1600/P1030092.JPG)
Pyramide 7a (pitch 5)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VqrxO9NcVZ4/VC7_xSjpFbI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/_hMae5eLCz4/s1600/P1030092.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VqrxO9NcVZ4/VC7_xSjpFbI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/_hMae5eLCz4/s1600/P1030092.JPG)
Poco Locos in Chamonix, a calorific feed! Back in the valley, some rest and recuperation followed after 3 hard days in the hills and a raid to the excellent valley crag, Gietroz, which is just inside the Swiss border during which I managed to bag the classic 'Reve de Singe' 8a before a massive thunderstorm. One of the local guides actually said it had been the worst July for 30 years. Next came a run up 'La Fin de Babylone' on the South Face of Le Brevent in the Aiguilles Rouges (opposite from the Mont Blanc massif), an 8 pitch 6c on a dodgy weather day. This provided some good mileage purely on bolts while we were waiting for a 3 day good weather window towards the end of the second week. I even jogged down from the summit of Le Brevent to save the 8 Euro cable car ride down, must have been getting fitter!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8itO-Dc59ro/VC8O-uP4TwI/AAAAAAAAAWw/MKrkmYlkYOY/s1600/P1030104.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8itO-Dc59ro/VC8O-uP4TwI/AAAAAAAAAWw/MKrkmYlkYOY/s1600/P1030104.JPG) 'La Fin de Babylone' 6c (pitch 5), South Face of Le Brevent
We were so pleased to have a chance at getting a go at the Grand Capucin as the weather seemed set fair but were initially apprehensive as it looked very wintry up there and by all accounts there had been fresh snow down to 3,300m and the climbing is well above this altitude! We ummed and aahed and had many debates over leisurely beers and coffees in the campsite over whether to go for it or leave it for another year. Finally we were galvanised into action after meeting a German team who had just done the Swiss route the previous day and said it was OK to climb although a bit snowy on ledges high up and pretty wet in many of the cracks. Sounded worth a punt! We were all pretty apprehensive heading down the snow arete to the glacier below the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi but excited at the same time, this was finally it, after months of waiting, planning, buying new kit and psyching up for the route, our chance was finally here. We trecked for a couple of hours down the Glacier du Geant roped up as a four and set up camp on the glacier a few hundred metres below the Capucin, which briefly loomed out of the mist before darkness fell. We could all feel the effects of the alitude as we were a fair bit higher up than our previous forays. It was bloody freezing in the night and despite buying a brand new top of the range sleeping bag before the trip, it was difficult to sleep in temperatures that must have dropped below minus ten.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vAVvotZ78Zg/VC74Zw9EjcI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/7kBa8LY8o_c/s1600/P1030119.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vAVvotZ78Zg/VC74Zw9EjcI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/7kBa8LY8o_c/s1600/P1030119.JPG) Home for 2 nights! Base camp on the Glacier du Geant below the Grand Capucin(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pnHeThspGks/VC74m4z-SZI/AAAAAAAAAUY/diM4U6ZS7fI/s1600/P1030129.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pnHeThspGks/VC74m4z-SZI/AAAAAAAAAUY/diM4U6ZS7fI/s1600/P1030129.JPG) Early start for the Capucin (v cold!)
We set off as soon as it was possible to warm our fingers and were at the base of the route, having cramponed up the approach gully at 7:30am, while all the loose rock that tends to funnel down this later in the day was well frozen in. Temperatures rapidly rose until we were climbing in T-shirts. John and I had initially planned on doing the Swiss Route but as this was quite busy, we decided to branch off left onto O Sole Mio, a slightly harder line which involved some pretty burly jamming. It was a joy to plug in cams and solid nuts and move quickly over some very high quality, golden granite. The crux 8th pitch was an awkward, bolt protected wall and maybe it was the alititude but it felt a good 7a to me!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eSXcR6aPHpg/VC74xH-SmvI/AAAAAAAAAUg/1X6QVvzVUnI/s1600/P1030140.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eSXcR6aPHpg/VC74xH-SmvI/AAAAAAAAAUg/1X6QVvzVUnI/s1600/P1030140.JPG) O Sole Mio 6c (pitch 5), South Face of the Grand Capucin
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VB59BxSwFKs/VC74_zF3FVI/AAAAAAAAAUo/N46Tz9Sn0RM/s1600/P1030147.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VB59BxSwFKs/VC74_zF3FVI/AAAAAAAAAUo/N46Tz9Sn0RM/s1600/P1030147.JPG) O Sole Mio 6c (crux pitch 8)
The air temps became distinctly colder later in the afternoon and time was marching on as we battled with some sustained crack work. All our layers came on and we presssed on to the summit even though it was getting towards 5pm, this was too good a chance to miss, how many times in your life do you get this close to the summit of the Grand Capucin? Finally we topped out and took in a breathtaking view across the entire Mont Blanc range. We only had 10 minutes to spare before beginning the 10+ abseils back down to base camp, which took longer than planned due to the (inevitable?) rope jams. At 8pm we crawled back into camp and had several revitalising brews and a tasty meal in the bag cooked on John's jet boil for supper.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m50gcOE4QSI/VC75aK6lxhI/AAAAAAAAAU4/q9Ns-Qpex4I/s1600/P1030151.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m50gcOE4QSI/VC75aK6lxhI/AAAAAAAAAU4/q9Ns-Qpex4I/s1600/P1030151.JPG) Summit of the Grand Capucin 3,838m, the highest I've ever been!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hPVX_9xMs6s/VC75eX2wauI/AAAAAAAAAVA/YxarGZn9ALI/s1600/P1030155.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hPVX_9xMs6s/VC75eX2wauI/AAAAAAAAAVA/YxarGZn9ALI/s1600/P1030155.JPG) View towards the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey from the summit of the Grand Capucin
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZVMwx7OMuw/VC75j7GHezI/AAAAAAAAAVI/HykgFwiArEs/s1600/P1030159.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZVMwx7OMuw/VC75j7GHezI/AAAAAAAAAVI/HykgFwiArEs/s1600/P1030159.JPG) A long way (500m) straight down from the summit to base camp!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcuTtP24c2s/VC750AvdoGI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/8IwM-7MjAzo/s1600/P1030162.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcuTtP24c2s/VC750AvdoGI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/8IwM-7MjAzo/s1600/P1030162.JPG) Endless, cold abseils. Le Trident (3639m) in the background
The next day we were all quite tired so despite the excellent weather, we took it easy and walked back up the glacier to set up camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. We had one more day of alpine climbing left and managed to put this to good use in bagging the classic 'Contamine Route' 7a on the right side of the south face. I had actually seconded this 15 years previously on a trip here with Andy Pedley and still remembered most of it. Duncan did a barnstorming lead on the crux pitch, probably E4 at sea level - anybody's guess up at 3,700m! We just made the last 'phrique down after busting a gut powering up the arete with monster rucksacks packed full of wet ropes, tents, stoves and gear, probably 70lbs plus each! I think our record time was 39 mins from the glacier up to the ticket station! We were definitely all feeling fitter.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OAc_xtFpY4g/VC76FexwvmI/AAAAAAAAAVg/1_R5ieGs3ZQ/s1600/P1030170.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OAc_xtFpY4g/VC76FexwvmI/AAAAAAAAAVg/1_R5ieGs3ZQ/s1600/P1030170.JPG) New base camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RAP7qWIJGFo/VC75_oWWpRI/AAAAAAAAAVY/0nSK_GUnNUE/s1600/P1030181.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RAP7qWIJGFo/VC75_oWWpRI/AAAAAAAAAVY/0nSK_GUnNUE/s1600/P1030181.JPG) Contamine Route, 7a (2nd pitch)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K4XrU3owxcA/VC76Vr1o_ZI/AAAAAAAAAVo/lBWz_qc75JQ/s1600/P1030183.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K4XrU3owxcA/VC76Vr1o_ZI/AAAAAAAAAVo/lBWz_qc75JQ/s1600/P1030183.JPG) Mont Blanc du Tacul (plenty of tents pitched)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bRWmrdzYkDI/VC76b6CPxaI/AAAAAAAAAVw/05RQwXcjk54/s1600/P1030191.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bRWmrdzYkDI/VC76b6CPxaI/AAAAAAAAAVw/05RQwXcjk54/s1600/P1030191.JPG) Dunc's big lead! Contamine Route 7a (crux 6th pitch)
So to sum up, we had an awesome time out in Cham - it was great to get away from familiar haunts back in the UK and do something different for a change. It has definitely inpired me at least for a return visit in the next few years. The Bonatti Pillar on the Capucin awaits, now that is a king line!
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: Fiend on October 04, 2014, 12:35:25 pm
Post by: comPiler on November 07, 2014, 12:01:43 am
6 November 2014, 10:40 pm
It has been a vintage season for Malham Cove this year. I have enjoyed experiencing the different seasons at the crag from the cool temps of spring, the heat of summer (which can be avoided by climbing superlate at the crag), the send temps of autumn to where we are at the moment in the cold conditions of early winter.
I have been going to Malham ever since I was at university in Manchester and still have my Rockfax 1990 guide which has been a source of continuing psyche. Seeing Cry Freedom in the guide next to the other classics, I always wondered whether I would ever be able to climb this historic line. I actually tried it in 2011 with James Riley for a couple of session but was way off the level back then. This year I was excited to use some of the fitness gained from trips away and plenty of time spent at the Tor to try some of the legendary staminafests the crag has to offer.
After coming back from the Alps in August, it took a couple of weeks to get my sport fitness back but it returned pretty quickly. I was pleased to do Totally Free 2, which was totally awesome (linking The Groove 8a+ into Free and Easy 7c then into the final roof of Breach of the Peace). This must be one of the best challenges at the grade in the UK even though there are quite a few good rests at key stages. Having frustratingly fallen off the last few moves in the wet before going to the Alps heaving up over the final barrel once stood up over the roof, the key to doing this was taking the trouble to first tick 'An Uneasy Peace 7c+' which starts up Free and Easy to its last bolt. Instead of going up and left to the belay of Free and Easy, Uneasy goes straight up via a runout section to finish up Breach. I reckon the roof of Breach must be 7c in its own right as it is burly and a tough finish to Totally Free 2 after 25 bolts of climbing, despite the hands off rest below Breach. Definitely save yourself the trouble of climbing all this way without having the top ruthlessly wired...and try not to attempt it in the rain either like me! I couldn't believe it when the heavens opened on my successful redpoint. Luckily I managed to bear down enough on the final wet crimps to avoid getting spat off into the void below. Here are some pics.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PXEd873nxvc/VFvqcfFu6SI/AAAAAAAAAXA/Pl38LsWuBIM/s1600/P1010924.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PXEd873nxvc/VFvqcfFu6SI/AAAAAAAAAXA/Pl38LsWuBIM/s1600/P1010924.JPG) The lower crux of the The Groove
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OZ9h3RBzcV8/VFvqvHUr0dI/AAAAAAAAAXI/SkeCxT9hmjg/s1600/P1010926.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OZ9h3RBzcV8/VFvqvHUr0dI/AAAAAAAAAXI/SkeCxT9hmjg/s1600/P1010926.JPG)Bridging rest on The Groove
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nkUqROxsOL4/VFvq1Ub2AMI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/DbMnx-gpKIU/s1600/P1010928.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nkUqROxsOL4/VFvq1Ub2AMI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/DbMnx-gpKIU/s1600/P1010928.JPG)Strenuous moves leaving the rest
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRvsH2VOMHA/VFvra4X7I6I/AAAAAAAAAXg/PCK1QJaQ9i0/s1600/P1010943.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRvsH2VOMHA/VFvra4X7I6I/AAAAAAAAAXg/PCK1QJaQ9i0/s1600/P1010943.JPG)Starting the hard section of the second half of The Groove
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vzG1ctVGKWI/VFvruKRBKXI/AAAAAAAAAXw/A9zHQMMZjX0/s1600/P1010970.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vzG1ctVGKWI/VFvruKRBKXI/AAAAAAAAAXw/A9zHQMMZjX0/s1600/P1010970.JPG)Keep on trucking! Just past the crux on Free and Easy 7c
After this, I had a couple of sunday sessions on Cry Freedom second day on and sorted out all the moves but it was only when I started trying it fresh that I managed to make some breakthroughs. Linking from the undercut rest at the end of the initial 6 bolt 7c to the top was a massive buzz as it includes the first crux bulge which has some baffling V7 moves. The upper crux on its own must be about V6, depending on your reach. I know that climbers of shorter stature really struggle on this last section but I was lucky enough to be able to just reach the crux crimp with my right hand from the big undercut at the end of the final 'corner'. Getting fully crimped on this hold and having a little bend left in your arm while your right foot remains on a small spike foothold at the back of the bulge is crucial. You then place a tenuous heel/ toe cam in a big hole out left and take a grim little slot/ sidepull for your left hand. Releasing the heel/ toe is the real crux whilst remaining pasted to the wall as the next moves are a little easier and you are soon stood up over the bulge on small crimps eyeing up the belay.
Here is a video of the send. I would encourage anybody to try this route who may be having second thoughts given the many stories of last move failure out there. This is a stonking route with a real sense of history. I even managed to get a decent kneebar rest below the last crux which with a 5.10 pad is not far hands off if you can tense up your core enough. Unlike Bat Route or Unjustified, the crux is right where it should be, at the top!
Cry Freedom 8c - FA Mark Leach 1988
A short word on the grade of Cry Freedom compared to Unjustied and Bat Route. I reckon it is harder than either of these two routes overall although of a different character. On Bat Route, while the moves individually are often desperate, particularly the roof section, the hard bits tend to be broken up by really good resting jugs and a bomber kneebar. Unjustified by contract is the opposite having virtually no rest but with moves which are perhaps not quite as hard with the exception of the crux bulge. I have gone with Mark Leach's original grade of 8c for Cry Freedom as this is apparently the grade he gave it initially after his 46 day siege, which has become part of climbing folklore. I hear it was only after the first few repeats that it got downgraded. Jibe Tribout apparently thought it was easier than Mecca but was going well at the time!
After Cry Freedom, I got my guide out and sussed out the remaining doable ticks I had left on the lower catwalk. Twisted and the Well Dunne Finish were obvious gaps and I was stoked to be able to tick both after a spot of spring cleaning of some very dusty holds. I would definitely recommend both of these routes. I would not say Twisted was much easier than Well Dunne but see what you think. Hopefully these two videos are useful for beta.
Twisted 8a - FA Mick Lovatt 1988
Well Dunne Finish 8b - FA John Dunne 1988
So the crucial question, which of GBH or Zoolook is it best to start up when trying Well Dunne? Zoolook of course! To me, its a fair bit easier than GBH with a bomber rest at the fifth bolt that GBH doesn't have. So, get it while you still can, the crag is still dry I hear, see you out there!
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on November 24, 2014, 12:00:35 am
23 November 2014, 11:32 pm
I hope you have all been getting out and enjoying the mostly still dry crags. To update you, I am excited to be working with Scarpa from now on. I have been wearing Instinct VS's recently and have been very impressed with the edging power, stiffness and downturned toe which has been awesome on some of the small footgrips at the Tor. In particular, on Mecca you need to be able to stand on some pretty poor, polished edges on the crux section gaining the base of the groove and I have noticed the moves feeling easier due to more weight going through my feet, which is a great thing!
The Tor season is still hanging in there, I have to keep pinching myself thinking the crag is bone dry and it is 23 November! It is a bit of an effort to stay warm enough and avoid the dreaded hotaches or 'numbing out' as it is called across the pond. Sprinting up and down the road 5 minutes before climbing seems to work but then all the blood can go to your legs and away from your hands. Handwarmers work for some. Maybe the Spanish trick of a heated rock in the chalkbag might be an idea...or better actually move to Spain!
Right now I'm trying Haaj, the left hand extension to Mecca which is a cool piece of climbing with some V8 or even V9 moves on the crux on rat crimps and two gnarly undercuts. Fortunately there is a half decent rest after leaving Mecca Extension. I'm also trying a long link of Mecca into the Whore of Babylon, which is easier but will still be a stout 8b+. It adds a 9 bolt 8a on top of Mecca and is very pumpy!
For inspiration, here is a shot of warmer climes from March this year and one of the most classic 12d's or 7c's at Smith Rock, USA taken by my friend Tom Wright. Can anybody guess which route?
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n6JzrwSyMQE/VHJokWmHT5I/AAAAAAAAAY0/FpjNiLGo5e4/s1600/photo(4).JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n6JzrwSyMQE/VHJokWmHT5I/AAAAAAAAAY0/FpjNiLGo5e4/s1600/photo(4).JPG)
Stay tuned folks and happy climbing!
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: Doylo on November 24, 2014, 05:02:55 pm
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 24, 2014, 05:06:30 pm
Post by: Kingy on November 24, 2014, 05:56:47 pm
Post by: Doylo on November 24, 2014, 07:57:04 pm
Post by: comPiler on December 28, 2014, 06:00:28 am
28 December 2014, 1:10 am
Now seems a good time to pause and reflect on the last 2.5 months of effort put in at the mighty bastion of peak crimping, the Tor. As September gave way to October, I went back into project mode on Haaj, the left hand extension to Mecca, which I had put on the back burner as a project while I put in the hard yards on Cry Freedom. Now the latter route was ticked, I could focus all my efforts on this beast and I was keen to get stuck in. Having found a good sequence using an improbably small left foot hold earlier in September that allowed a massive reach for the left hand to be made off a good, flat hold for the right, I knew it was on and I had made the crucial link from the Mecca belay to the top. While evening sessions were no longer possible with it getting dark at 7, 6:30, and then by the time November rolled around, 4:30, I was still going out to the crag after work for bouldering sessions, trying to keep the edge with laps on Bens Roof, attempts at Powerband (I have a goal at some point to link this into Pump up the Power - the training linkup 'Pump up the Powerband, which is a meaty 8c) and other boulder problems such as Kristians direct start to Wild in Me 7b, Powerhumps 7b+, Out of My Tree 7b and various linkups/ circuits on Weedkiller and Basher's problem. A keen band of lantern session boulderers kept psyche levels high, after all, what could be better training that busting out moves on real rock?
At weekends, I followed my routine of Saturdays on the project followed by stamina days at Malham. In October, I made some good gains on Mecca, getting up it 3 times in a session for the first time ever. However, Haaj is a very tricky customer, with a desparate move off a small, flat undercut for the right hand proving to be stopper on all of my redpoints. The set up moves into this are hard but manageable and I got to the point where I never fell off them, even from the ground. As soon as my fingers bit into the first crimpy undercut for the left hand and then I slapped into the crux right hand undercut, it was like hitting a brick wall. When doing these moves from the shake on Mecca Extension, you seem to have time to stand up into the undercut with the outside edge of your left foot on a big flat hold (that you have previously used as a hold for your right hand). However, once you are a bit pumped, it becomes much harder to stand up into the move. On almost all of my attempts from the ground, I would end up jumping up and out from the crag into the inevitable 20 footer down to the Mecca belay instead of reaching up in control to the tiny left hand crimp which allows you to match on an intermediate and then slap into the big right hand gaston that spells the end of the crux sequence. These last moves are exciting as you are a fair way above the last quickdraw (the last dogging bolt unclippable off to the right) and would be on for a fair old whipper! On one of my redpoint attempts, I got partially stood up into the undercut and within 3 inches of the final left hand crimp. Alas, although close to the move, I knew I was never going to make it although it was my best go of the season. Still, this was a window into doing the route and got my psyched.
Unfortunately, after this good attempt, on my next go I split a tip on the left hand rat crimp on my third redpoint of the day. I had been trying the link into the Whore of Babylon as a consolation prize and had the moves worked and was in two minds as to whether to go for this of have another go on Haaj. I decided on the latter and the tiny sharp crimps decided I had outstayed my welcome. This meant I had to take 10 days off the route.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4zkCEJpOD0g/VJ9Vnz2ULsI/AAAAAAAAAZE/3ME29h9FoBE/s1600/Mecca+linkup+topo.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4zkCEJpOD0g/VJ9Vnz2ULsI/AAAAAAAAAZE/3ME29h9FoBE/s1600/Mecca+linkup+topo.jpg)
Mecca linkups and projects
It was at this point that I started trying to bag the Whore of Babylon link. This is the red line on the above topo I have drawn of Mecca links and projects. This is a cool linkup that Steve McClure had first done but which I think finished up Crucifixion. The moves from where it leaves Haaj (after the first independent move) are not too hard and the whole 2 bolt sequence before it joins Proud Whore is probably 7b+. The moves are not trivial but way easier than those on Haaj. The finish up Proud Whore, although probably 7b+ again, was steeper and more physical and on my link attempts from the base of the groove on Mecca, proved to be very pumpy indeed!
As late November arrived, me and the ever dwindling band of regulars started to get hit with unreliable conditions as, even though the crag was still essentially bone dry, as soon as the temperature rose above about 6 degrees, the dreaded condensation came on. On Saturdays in a row, this happened, which resulted in frustrating enforced rest in the hope of better conditions the following day. Basically, opportunities for successful redpoints were dwindling fast. Even when the crag was dry, as December rolled around, it unsurprisingly became bitterly cold as the sun now didn't rise above the hill opposite the crag and Mecca got zero sun. One day when I failed to get up Mecca via my usual method in the dusk due to a late arrival at the crag, I decided to experiment with the different ways of gaining the base of the groove, managing to climb it via the classic right hand to the horn method and then, the following week by the Egyptian way method. What I was after was an easier, more reliable method and I hope that I have now found it with the Egyptian way. After all, if Steve and most other people do it this way, there must be a good reason!
As the end of the season approached, I wanted something to show for my efforts and on last session before the Works party, the Whore of Babylon link went down. Unfortunately (or fortunately!) I discovered a really good rest in the Creamteam break before the finish up Proud Whore which took the edge off it, although at the end of the day, this section still has to be climbed and is no pushover. The direct version will be even pumpier. So, with the Tor season ended for 2014, I have been getting stuck back into some plastic training and some much needed new moves. I'm psyched for what the New Year may bring and will be back for Haaj, and other projects, in the Spring! For now its off to Chulila for 15 days of bolt clipping heaven, some onsighting and change of scene, venga bichos!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LQSEmkQKqhk/VJ9Xoj0kZFI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/XQq8BURTctQ/s1600/photo+2.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LQSEmkQKqhk/VJ9Xoj0kZFI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/XQq8BURTctQ/s1600/photo+2.JPG)
A classic 8a route from around Chamonix earlier this summer, can anyone guess which one?
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on January 17, 2015, 12:01:20 am
16 January 2015, 10:43 pm
Hi folks, thanks for stopping by.I have just returned from a highly enjoyable two week trip to Chulilla and the Costa Blanca with my friends Haydn Jones, Sam Hamer and Jose. We spent 9 days in Chulilla over New Year and then travelled south to stay at Gaz Parry and Kate Mills' house near Oliva in the Costa Blanca for a further 4 days. For the last couple of days, we visited Jose in his home city of Murcia.
After the obligatory enforced layoff over Christmas it took a couple of days to find our feet but we soon acclimatised to the style of Chulilla, which generally offers long, vertical to gently overhanging wall climbing with most pitches being up to 30m or more in length. It seemed that half of Sheffield was visiting the area and it was cool to spend time with friends from familiar home crags. We lucked out with our accommodation and managed to get rooms in the same apartment as Matt Segal, he of Progression fame. Most evenings were spent arguing the toss over grit highballing ethics with Matt and his mates. They cooked us up a proper banquet on New Years eve (see pic) as well, result!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ci75ActhHSo/VLlQT_NyusI/AAAAAAAAAZw/ZTToJ4bYptU/s1600/IMG_0308.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ci75ActhHSo/VLlQT_NyusI/AAAAAAAAAZw/ZTToJ4bYptU/s1600/IMG_0308.JPG) News Years Eve banquet with the Yanks
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-owlbj1EGSD0/VLmDdetxqqI/AAAAAAAAAcU/hBKLRixM1Zw/s1600/IMG_0315.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-owlbj1EGSD0/VLmDdetxqqI/AAAAAAAAAcU/hBKLRixM1Zw/s1600/IMG_0315.JPG)The ancient village of Chulilla with arabic castle
So, what about the routes? I was psyched to spend some time on-sighting for a change and tried to be disciplined to move onto another route without redpointing it if I fell off. With whole sectors sporting endless 30m lines of 7c, 7c+ and 8a, who needs a first redpoint when there are onsight dragons to be slain! I was pleased to get two 8a onsights and some 7c+'s as well. My attempt to onsight an 8a+ called La Buena ended at bolt 5 of 18 unfortunately, you can't win 'em all ;0). We only took one rest day in 9 days which made a refreshing change to the many double rest days taken before redpoints on home ground. I am looking forward to spending more time on this style of climbing in the future, the other side of the coin to sieging. Here is my ticklist of 7b+ and above:
Chulilla Ticklist
8a+
La Buena (El Balcon) - Redpoint
8a
El capataz incapaz (El Balcon) - Onsight
El agente naranja (El Balcon) - Onsight
La boca de la voz (Pared de Enfrente) - 1st redpoint
7c+
Plantea Namek (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
Ramallar (Pared de Enfrente) - Onsight
La quebranta (Pared de Enfrente) - Onsight
El rey de la palanca (El Balconcito) -Onsight
El Bufa (El Balconcito) -Onsight
Tequila Sunrise (El Balconcito) -Onsight
7c
Hipotermia (El Algarrobo) - 1st redpoint
Nivelungalos (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
Bricopaco (El Algarrobo) - Redpoint
7b+
Nikita (Competition) - Onsight
Andromeda (Competition) -1st redpoint
Ca La Marta (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wLB_WO8wUec/VLmMUVwssnI/AAAAAAAAAcg/4rWpaTo_ZzU/s1600/_MG_0486.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wLB_WO8wUec/VLmMUVwssnI/AAAAAAAAAcg/4rWpaTo_ZzU/s1600/_MG_0486.JPG)
La Buena 8a+(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k0MCI3V9wMc/VLmOCBG6TUI/AAAAAAAAAco/wQ5G__F_0fc/s1600/IMG_0355.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k0MCI3V9wMc/VLmOCBG6TUI/AAAAAAAAAco/wQ5G__F_0fc/s1600/IMG_0355.JPG)El capataz incapaz 8a
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3vHe4JPQ2o/VLlRFG8fArI/AAAAAAAAAaI/3SqxFv9d-6g/s1600/IMG_0400.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3vHe4JPQ2o/VLlRFG8fArI/AAAAAAAAAaI/3SqxFv9d-6g/s1600/IMG_0400.JPG) Tequila Sunrise 7c+
In fairness, New Years eve in Chulilla had been a relatively tame affair so when the opportunity presented itself to party a bit in Valencia with Jose and his friends, we duly obliged. After a few beers, it seemed like the evening was heading to a close at midnight but then the cocktail bowls and bottles of spirits were busted out and an impromptu visit to a local club took place. The Spanish tend to stop out a fair bit later than us English folk, all I would say is sometimes you need more of a siesta than a fiesta! ;0)
With the party scores now settled, it was time to crank again and we were all excited to check out Gaz's local crags. Gaz and Kate very kindly put us up at their home just outside the small town of Oliva, which is not far from Alicante or Valencia airports. Situated amongst orange groves in some beautiful countryside just south of Gandia and a stone's throw from the Penon d'Ifach and Sella, this would make an ideal base for anybody looking to explore the Costa Blanca. I know Gaz has a room to rent so drop him a line if you are looking to spend time in this superb climbing area and soak up some rays!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eaFH4_mXA-M/VLlzwph-esI/AAAAAAAAAcI/_DRx_fVrOEo/s1600/_MG_0645.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eaFH4_mXA-M/VLlzwph-esI/AAAAAAAAAcI/_DRx_fVrOEo/s1600/_MG_0645.JPG)Another grim day on the Costa Blanca
Gaz and Kate are both animal lovers and have a stable with some horses as well as some very friendly cats and dogs. The dogs include those unlucky animals who are unfortunate enough to have suffered an injury or simply have no home to go to. One of the dogs was my namesake which guaranteed some moments of confusion each morning before coffee had been consumed.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hNIO-45QjtU/VLlxdIoM1XI/AAAAAAAAAa4/G1pVeBemXp0/s1600/IMG_0514.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hNIO-45QjtU/VLlxdIoM1XI/AAAAAAAAAa4/G1pVeBemXp0/s1600/IMG_0514.JPG)Some Spanish podencos (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-__F5yUvXTHc/VLlyidUopDI/AAAAAAAAAbY/ijbNrMGCV48/s1600/IMG_0593.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-__F5yUvXTHc/VLlyidUopDI/AAAAAAAAAbY/ijbNrMGCV48/s1600/IMG_0593.JPG)Feeding time
We were all excited to check out Gaz's local crag 'Sector 45' where his now ex-project Supersonico 8c+ is to be found. David Petts joined us to film the ascent with the aid of his awesome 'quadcopter' or drone which was buzzing around the crag filming the action from all sorts of angles. The days of hiring a helicopter for filming for £10,000 an hour are now a thing of the past. We were all very impressed with the gobsmacking hanging arete line of Supersonico and indeed the futuristic 9a+ project to its right, which is currently being worked by Spanish hotshot Primo. We all took the opportunity to tick the classic 7c 'Luz de Sol' that Gaz bolted along with the quality 7c and 7c+ tufa lines to the left with their tricky traverses on slopey tufas under the massive roof.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BxEiarBgWBo/VLlyDJ0D2cI/AAAAAAAAAbI/4G21vjG96Rc/s1600/IMG_0524.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BxEiarBgWBo/VLlyDJ0D2cI/AAAAAAAAAbI/4G21vjG96Rc/s1600/IMG_0524.JPG)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NKxPHYF-25o/VLlxGBbj8zI/AAAAAAAAAao/oHZU63B9Qig/s1600/IMG_0521.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NKxPHYF-25o/VLlxGBbj8zI/AAAAAAAAAao/oHZU63B9Qig/s1600/IMG_0521.JPG)
Haydn on Luz da Sol 7c Jose on Adios Sol 8b
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8g7pcBKMBI/VLlyy6HGWgI/AAAAAAAAAbg/9FIJJsa2Vgc/s1600/_MG_0605.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8g7pcBKMBI/VLlyy6HGWgI/AAAAAAAAAbg/9FIJJsa2Vgc/s1600/_MG_0605.JPG)Is it a bird, is it a plane?
On the last day of my stay, we had spent the morning resting and arrived at the crag at half 3 to take advantage of the cooler evening temps. Conditions definitely felt a lot better than the previous days of working routes and after Gaz did a massive link from low down on the route to nearly the top, I knew a send was on the cards. It was very inspiring to see Gaz on his ascent which was obviously the culmination of a lot of hard work and dedication.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-khCjSiduzQ4/VLlzXDVcujI/AAAAAAAAAbw/cJtY9NNEvn8/s1600/_MG_0635.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-khCjSiduzQ4/VLlzXDVcujI/AAAAAAAAAbw/cJtY9NNEvn8/s1600/_MG_0635.JPG)
Gaz post crux on Supersonico 8c+
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BC2LnTC8cmE/VLlzXa6IbfI/AAAAAAAAAb0/gjZrGu8wmxI/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BC2LnTC8cmE/VLlzXa6IbfI/AAAAAAAAAb0/gjZrGu8wmxI/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG)Haydn on the7c+
After Supersonico went down, riding on a wave of psyche, I managed to redpoint the third ascent of the excellent 8b 'Adios Sol' of Gaz's which has some cool Oliana-like tufas on the bottom section leading to a rest before the final, very thin wall. In fact, this section is so thin that it very difficult to stop and clip on the final moves, perpetual motion upwards being your only hope! There is significant potential left at this crag not to mention the other crags littering the surrounding area, those after a new route fix need look no further.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tI0-CYgEmVU/VLly0LJmjVI/AAAAAAAAAbo/8X7wjstOp9c/s1600/IMG_0613.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tI0-CYgEmVU/VLly0LJmjVI/AAAAAAAAAbo/8X7wjstOp9c/s1600/IMG_0613.JPG)Not a bad view from the crag Celebrating that night involved a mega 'all you can eat' chinese buffet complete with sushi and a chocolate fountain dessert, washed down with some San Miguels, after all we were on holiday! The next day, I took the coach to Murcia to rejoin the lads who had travelled down a day earlier with Jose. After a further night out, including a visit to a club in an old bullring, we lapped up our last rays of sunshine at the quality crag La Boveda near Orihuela. After the crag cooled down at around 5, I managed a flash of 'El Grinch' 7c+ as my final send of the trip and we were airport-bound. What a trip, I hope you all enjoy your own Spanish adventures soon!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YPRIxbhy-7A/VLmRP028CPI/AAAAAAAAAcw/lEP0mDHyOTk/s1600/IMG_0666.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YPRIxbhy-7A/VLmRP028CPI/AAAAAAAAAcw/lEP0mDHyOTk/s1600/IMG_0666.JPG)El Grinch 7c+ on the last day around Murcia
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on March 26, 2015, 06:00:41 pm
26 March 2015, 1:53 pm
After getting back from Spain in January, it was time to focus on training in preparation for the forthcoming routes season. I have been listening to a few podcasts of late, in particular the excellent Training Beta podcasts https://www.trainingbeta.com/trainingbeta-podcast/ with people like Jonathan Siegrist, Carlo Traversi, Angie Payne and lately Adam Ondra interviewed which got my thinking on how I was going to improve my climbing for projects this year. I don't pretend to be remotely scientific about any of this and decided to stick to what seemed to work quite well last year, i.e. doing lots of fitness laps at a medium grade at Stockport wall along with some fingerboarding, sessions of 100 pullups and as much bouldering as possible.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ldhC3myIaY/VRND_-z7tdI/AAAAAAAAAdc/BxLClR0ypgo/s1600/_MG_0736.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ldhC3myIaY/VRND_-z7tdI/AAAAAAAAAdc/BxLClR0ypgo/s1600/_MG_0736.JPG)Working Lou Ferrigno V10 in the Cave
Which leads me onto a key debate, how should a climber who spends most of the year doing stamina routes prepare for this? How much of the year should they spend bouldering? Personally, when I came back from Chulilla, I felt pretty weak bouldering wise. I felt I had to get back on track with busting out some V9's and 10's. Parisella's Cave on the Orme near Llandudno is the perfect venue for this as there a lots of linkups and hard boulders like Rockatrocity and Lou Ferrigno to test yourself against. After stringing together a few saturdays in the Cave, I was soon back on track and whilst not feeling as strong as I used to feel 5 years ago when I was purely bouldering, I was not far off. I must admit at times, thinking back to those days in 2009, the thought did flash across my mind of getting back into exclusive hardcore bouldering. I would like to do a V12 and reckon with sufficient training and focus it might be achievable. However, I love routes too much and being an allrounder, you have to put the hours in on a rope indoors (or doing circuits) to have any chance of keeping a cutting edge come the spring. So, a compromise was reached and over the last nearly 3 months I have been bouldering saturdays and sundays and doing 2 routes sessions in the week at Stockport with fingerboarding or pullups on a Tuesday morning, just to keep it real ;0).
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A1B-etZ05mc/VRNDvKlUsCI/AAAAAAAAAdU/AsyNsW2Ni0Q/s1600/_MG_0758.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A1B-etZ05mc/VRNDvKlUsCI/AAAAAAAAAdU/AsyNsW2Ni0Q/s1600/_MG_0758.JPG)More Lou Ferrigno action!
I have since learnt that this is a 'non-linear' approach where the disciplines of stamina and power are maintained simultaneously. Necessarily, unfortunately it is not possible with this approach to generate significant peaks of performance at desired intervals in time (for a trip away for example). However, as this excellent post by Steve Bechtel on the Mountain Projects forum suggests (see midway down), modern athletes need to be fit all year round and there is a risk that by sacrificing stamina training for a punt on increasing one aspect of performance (i.e. power), overall fitness may suffer.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization--non-linear-periodization/108438729
This has been the reasoning behind my loose 'non-linear' training approach and has been the source of many interesting debates on the way to the Cave recently. A friend of mine says that ultimately, to get stronger, it will be a case of having to knock fitness training on the head completely and work on power alone, maybe next year! Here is a video my friend Dan Cheatam made documenting some Cave action! This shows me working on Hatch Life High, a cool V11 which I managed to bag in February and captures the atmosphere of a good Cave session I reckon.
Training in the Cave - Video by Dan Cheatam (https://vimeo.com/121833637)
I am currently working on Lou Ferrigno sans Pocket, an upsidedown V11 with lots of compression and clamping along with Hatchatrocity, another meaty V11 link into the classic Rockatrocity V9. Fitness will get you nowhere on these beasts! Here are more vids of some forays to Tremerchion, an excellent roadside craglet of immaculate, crimpy limestone where several extremely cold sessions were had. Top tip, you can't fail to get mutant fingers cranking here, the holds are tiny! (Apologies for readers who have already seen these on Facebook).
36 Chamber Font V9
22 Chambers V9
A raid down to Dartmoor earlier this month yielded a tick of Jungle VIP, an excellent bloc-style V10 or V11 (depending on who you talk to) at Burrator Reservoir, along with a second ascent of Alex Waterhouse's excellent new V8 slab, Aurora at Combeshead Tor, see these vids:
Jungle VIP and Others - Dartmoor Bouldering (https://vimeo.com/122226389)
Aurora V8 (second ascent)
So, how much should a stamina climber boulder? I have no idea! but for me I have decided to try and maintain a decent level of power whilst still majoring on fitness like I did last year. For the future, maybe the rope will be put on the shelf for 6 months in exchange for a sustained period of power training but not just yet, did someone say Malham and the Tor were nearly dry, I'm there!
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: Fiend on March 26, 2015, 08:23:36 pm
Post by: Sasquatch on March 28, 2015, 06:55:46 pm
Like most things the devil is in the details. Adam Ondra's training beta podcast seems to indicate his training is some blend of block periodization and non-linear periodization.
Lastly, is understanding the athlete's key weaknesses. What holds you back from accomplishing your goals? I think this is part of the reason different types of training work for some people, and don't work for others.
Post by: abarro81 on March 28, 2015, 07:45:26 pm
I agree that most people should be spending most of their time climbing, preferably on rock, loads. Certainly when climbing in the 6s & 7s. D Mac said a lot of sensible shit in 9/10 climbers.
Post by: Kingy on March 28, 2015, 07:50:48 pm
The other side of the coin would be a stamina climber who wants to get stronger to accomplish his/ her dream project that has a crux which is currently just above their current power level. They might be best advised to go on a block of exclusive power for 6 - 8 weeks or lots of bouldering interspersed with bare maintenance of their fitness (for example a routes session every 7 - 10 days in between sessions of maximal power).
75% of training time spent on climbing sounds like a sensible figure to work with for such an ultimately skill and technique based sport. 1 - 4 - 7 or a one arm pullup is a nice goal but perhaps won't help on a climber's project as much as they might think. Even Magnus Mitbo said recently that his one finger pullup on an old video were mainly just for show as were his fabled one arm pressups. :strongbench:
Anyway, I know nothing about TRCTM as I haven't read it so should probably stop there! :yes:
Post by: comPiler on June 25, 2015, 01:01:12 am
24 June 2015, 8:46 pm
I have now been back 6 weeks since another amazing trip to Smith Rock in Oregon. After climbing To Bolt or Not to Be last year, I always wondered what the other famous Jibe Tribout route at Smith, Just Do It, would be like. Climbed back in 1992 by Jibe, this legendary line was the first 5.14c or 8c+ in the USA. I had heard that it is a very different animal to To Bolt as it is similarly vertical in the bottom two thirds but leans back considerably in the upper third of the route. The climb goes up the west face of the incredible Monkey pinnacle, which has to be one of the most impressive rock formations I have ever seen. The top section of the Monkey has a distictive band of purple rock and this is where the meat of the climb lies. The bottom part is a recognised 13d (or 8b) in its own right with its own chains. The upper part, which is mostly in the purple rock is considered to be 14a (or 8b+). I had seen the excellent videos of Ryan Palo and Drew Ruana crushing the route before my trip so I had some idea of what to expect. The route is long, at 35m+ it is a 17 bolt monster!
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_F9dyIlu0JY/VYcZO9zr3MI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/lNSl3D6VPGM/s640/photo.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_F9dyIlu0JY/VYcZO9zr3MI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/lNSl3D6VPGM/s1600/photo.JPG) |
| Me on Just Do It at the upper shake out (I'm wearing a black T shirt about 15 foot into the purple rock) |
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cSmgkyr8dGg/VYcZU3e-eBI/AAAAAAAAAfY/dYv9l-PssbI/s400/IMG_1078+-+Copy.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cSmgkyr8dGg/VYcZU3e-eBI/AAAAAAAAAfY/dYv9l-PssbI/s1600/IMG_1078+-+Copy.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Team! (at Redmond Airport). Me and Richard[/td][/tr]
[/table]After touching down in Redmond airport, the next day, despite the jet lag, Richard and I headed up to the route via some warmups in the Aggro Gulley and got stuck in. The bottom part turned out to be surprisingly unsustained with an initial 5 bolts of hard, crimpy 8a+ climbing involving a very tweaky, almost slabby 2 finger pocket move leading to 3 bolts of much more moderate climbing of about 7a+/7b with 2 very good rests on jugs. | (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ktLFloNE3aw/VYcXq7pdQNI/AAAAAAAAAeI/d2VUpJhYPow/s400/IMG_0978+-+Copy.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ktLFloNE3aw/VYcXq7pdQNI/AAAAAAAAAeI/d2VUpJhYPow/s1600/IMG_0978+-+Copy.JPG) |
| Mike Doyle on technical edge cranking by the 3rd bolt |
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AACF2FIOAgg/VYczKNkt1GI/AAAAAAAAAfo/XYArWvkVXhI/s400/IMG_0991+-+Copy.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AACF2FIOAgg/VYczKNkt1GI/AAAAAAAAAfo/XYArWvkVXhI/s1600/IMG_0991+-+Copy.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mike on the crux pocket move of the lower part by the 8th bolt[/td][/tr]
[/table]The crux of the lower part is at the 8th bolt and is a desparate deadpoint off a 2 finger pocket to a distant finger sloper which you must stick with perfect timing which leads to an excellent rest by the 9th bolt bridging on smears in a vague groove where you can hold onto a small ledge with the heel of your hands. (This is the famous 'Sharma rest' where he took off his jumper mid redpoint during his quick repeat back in 1997). This tricky move took a while to figure out but by my 3rd day on the route I had managed to redpoint the initial 8b. On my second day, I was able to do all the moves of the upper part so once I had got through the 8b section for the first time, I had a go at redpointing as far as I could get to and nearly made it to the 13th bolt so I was psyched.[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ladwu0fUX-A/VYqnawN9-CI/AAAAAAAAAf8/SCkntaa1hzA/s640/DSC_0262.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ladwu0fUX-A/VYqnawN9-CI/AAAAAAAAAf8/SCkntaa1hzA/s1600/DSC_0262.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Me approaching the shake out at the 13th bolt[/td][/tr]
[/table]The first moves of the upper section are not too hard and involve pumpy 7b/7b+ climbing with one big lock move to a sloper leading to some massive flat jugs by the 13th bolt, where you can shake out with your heel out left on a sloping ledge, although it is pretty strenuous to hang there for long - this is your rest before the upper crux. [tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DVZYX1glgTM/VYcYPonSq3I/AAAAAAAAAeg/m5rd5lOw67s/s400/IMG_0999+-+Copy.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DVZYX1glgTM/VYcYPonSq3I/AAAAAAAAAeg/m5rd5lOw67s/s1600/IMG_0999+-+Copy.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mike approaching the purple band, at the 11th bolt[/td][/tr]
[/table]The next 30 foot section is by far the hardest section of climbing on the entire route and is 8b in its own right. Off the flat jugs, some basic pulls on flat crimps leading to a desparate crank off a sika'd edge for your right hand to a terrible sharp 2 finger crimp for your left hand way out left, which is difficult to catch as you have to deadpoint for it. From this crimp the hardest move of the route is a massive and powerful lunge to a tiny toothlike crimp for the right hand which allows you to stretch left to what we christened the 'Jibe rest'. This is a hole which would be a decent hand jam were it not for the fact that a chockstone has been irretrievably wigged into there so those with sausage fingers (myself included!) can't get their fingers more than a couple of joints in; also you are only on smears for your feet. Off the Jibe rest, there are 11 further hand moves involving powerful slaps between two 2 finger pockets, some diagonal edges and finally some better holds before the easier top out moves (This last section alone could be a tricky 2 bolt 7c+ if it were on Peak limestone)So basically to do the route, you must do a long, technical, vertical 8b to the Sharma rest, a further 7b+ to a steep shake out on some flat jugs followed by a steeper, short and powerful 8b. If the route is broken down in this way, it begins to sounds almost manageable, however redpointing is the only way to test this! I have put together this 10 minute video of Mike on an attempt on the route just to show what its all about:
Video of attempt by Mike Doyle
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--OaRykcosdk/VYsEtNk0gEI/AAAAAAAAAgM/3UHzoy4Xjnw/s400/Close+up+of+JDI.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--OaRykcosdk/VYsEtNk0gEI/AAAAAAAAAgM/3UHzoy4Xjnw/s1600/Close+up+of+JDI.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Me just before the flat ledge and the upper 8b[/td][/tr]
[/table]On my 4th day, I managed to get to the flat jugs by the 13th and pressed on into the crux, surprising myself by reaching the sika'd edge by the 14th bolt and slapping out to the 2 finger crimp (there is big whipper to be had here, around 20 - 25 feet with rope stretch, as you can't clip the 14th bolt and are forced to skip it!) On my second burn, I managed to stick the 2 finger crimp but it was like hitting a brick wall, the tooth seemed miles away! I was encouraged by getting this far though and it seemed like I might possibly be in with a shout of cracking the route by the end of the trip.[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sDK6ejVcXdM/VYcYo3DIy3I/AAAAAAAAAeo/RMaVZVJVK5o/s640/IMG_1010+-+Copy.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sDK6ejVcXdM/VYcYo3DIy3I/AAAAAAAAAeo/RMaVZVJVK5o/s1600/IMG_1010+-+Copy.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mike about to go for the lett hand 2 finger crimp at the upper crux (14th bolt) with the Jibe rest up and left[/td][/tr]
[/table]However, the moves leaving the Jibe rest are critical to getting the route done and on my link goes from the 13th bolt I hadn't managed to find a reliable method, even straining my right bicep in the process while extensively working the moves (there are 3 methods from the various videos to enable you to use a poor 2 finger pocket for the right hand take an awkward left hand gaston and then stab into a good 2 finger pocket again for the right hand). I think it was on my 5th day on the route that Mike pointed out a crucial footmatch and outside left edge on the sika'd crimp (used as a handhold earlier) which made a big difference. As we had found it was essential to take a rest day after each day of attempts as the nature of the climbing is so intense, my 6th session on the route would be on the 11th day of the trip, leaving only one further day of attempts - nothing like a bit of pressure to spur you on!On the 6th session I again got up to the 2 finger crimp but still failed on the lunge for the tooth, although it was feeling closer. I had a concerted effort to finally do the link of the upper 8b from the flat jugs by the 13th to the chain and got quite close to getting through but didn't quite make it to the good 2 finger pocket. In retrospect and with more time on the route, I should have concentrated more on doing this 8b link before I made any attempts from the ground. As it was, it was tempting to have 2 full blooded redponts from the deck every session, which meant that I never managed to do this crucial link, which would have been a massive psychological boost.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_Z2OYTAPuE/VYcYtXcwKiI/AAAAAAAAAew/KiinUr-UG3M/s640/IMG_1018+-+Copy.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_Z2OYTAPuE/VYcYtXcwKiI/AAAAAAAAAew/KiinUr-UG3M/s1600/IMG_1018+-+Copy.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Monkey, never ceases to amaze![/td][/tr]
[/table]I decided to take 2 full rest days before my final, 7th session on the route. It wasn't meant to be though. Although I got up to the 2 finger crimp twice from the ground and ticked the tooth before the Jibe rest, feeling not a million miles from sticking it, there no cigar! Obviously although it was a little disappointing to go away without the tick, I was happy to feel good on the initial 8b, to have had 8 good attempts in total failing at the 14th bolt and to have finally found a good method on the upper exit moves. I was feeling a lot of soreness by the end of the trip under my left shoulder blade at some 'trigger points' in the rhomboid muscle, where it joins on to your ribcage and I decided to get this seen to by a physio as this could have been holding me back on the crux move to the tooth. (I have had 3 sessions so far with great results). There is always next time and having written down a full beta crib sheet on the plane home, I am fully amped to return for another crack as soon as I can armed with full knowledge of what the route entails and some specific training. [tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kQc9jrTrnPI/VYcXv7fBFGI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/IFfikCHH63w/s640/IMG_0968+-+Copy.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kQc9jrTrnPI/VYcXv7fBFGI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/IFfikCHH63w/s1600/IMG_0968+-+Copy.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunset at the Monkey Face[/td][/tr]
[/table]Thanks for reading folks and I can fully recommend Smith Rock to anybody looking for incredible technical edge climbing on stunning faces and aretes, get to it, you know it makes sense!| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K-5yzkZlxCg/VYcZIC9o6RI/AAAAAAAAAfI/W_2ELu6w8Lw/s400/IMG_1068+-+Copy.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K-5yzkZlxCg/VYcZIC9o6RI/AAAAAAAAAfI/W_2ELu6w8Lw/s1600/IMG_1068+-+Copy.JPG) |
| Last morning onsight attempt on Scene of the Crime 5.13b/ 8a |
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1pLqqe8p2K0/VYcZEgIsCZI/AAAAAAAAAfA/sYTYsTm5ego/s400/IMG_1070+-+Copy.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1pLqqe8p2K0/VYcZEgIsCZI/AAAAAAAAAfA/sYTYsTm5ego/s1600/IMG_1070+-+Copy.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Higher on Scene of the Crime[/td][/tr]
[/table]Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: a dense loner on June 25, 2015, 08:54:22 am
Post by: cheque on June 25, 2015, 09:09:50 am
Post by: Fiend on June 25, 2015, 09:48:02 am
Post by: Zods Beard on June 25, 2015, 04:23:27 pm
Post by: a dense loner on June 25, 2015, 09:59:09 pm
Post by: Zods Beard on June 25, 2015, 11:37:28 pm
Post by: comPiler on July 14, 2015, 01:02:06 am
28 December 2014, 1:10 am
Now seems a good time to pause and reflect on the last 2.5 months of effort put in at the mighty bastion of peak crimping, the Tor. As September gave way to October, I went back into project mode on Hajj, the left hand extension to Mecca, which I had put on the back burner as a project while I put in the hard yards on Cry Freedom. Now the latter route was ticked, I could focus all my efforts on this beast and I was keen to get stuck in. Having found a good sequence using an improbably small left foot hold earlier in September that allowed a massive reach for the left hand to be made off a good, flat hold for the right, I knew it was on and I had made the crucial link from the Mecca belay to the top. While evening sessions were no longer possible with it getting dark at 7, 6:30, and then by the time November rolled around, 4:30, I was still going out to the crag after work for bouldering sessions, trying to keep the edge with laps on Bens Roof, attempts at Powerband (I have a goal at some point to link this into Pump up the Power - the training linkup 'Pump up the Powerband, which is a meaty 8c) and other boulder problems such as Kristians direct start to Wild in Me 7b, Powerhumps 7b+, Out of My Tree 7b and various linkups/ circuits on Weedkiller and Basher's problem. A keen band of lantern session boulderers kept psyche levels high, after all, what could be better training that busting out moves on real rock?
At weekends, I followed my routine of Saturdays on the project followed by stamina days at Malham. In October, I made some good gains on Mecca, getting up it 3 times in a session for the first time ever. However, Hajj is a very tricky customer, with a desparate move off a small, flat undercut for the right hand proving to be stopper on all of my redpoints. The set up moves into this are hard but manageable and I got to the point where I never fell off them, even from the ground. As soon as my fingers bit into the first crimpy undercut for the left hand and then I slapped into the crux right hand undercut, it was like hitting a brick wall. When doing these moves from the shake on Mecca Extension, you seem to have time to stand up into the undercut with the outside edge of your left foot on a big flat hold (that you have previously used as a hold for your right hand). However, once you are a bit pumped, it becomes much harder to stand up into the move. On almost all of my attempts from the ground, I would end up jumping up and out from the crag into the inevitable 20 footer down to the Mecca belay instead of reaching up in control to the tiny left hand crimp which allows you to match on an intermediate and then slap into the big right hand gaston that spells the end of the crux sequence. These last moves are exciting as you are a fair way above the last quickdraw (the last dogging bolt unclippable off to the right) and would be on for a fair old whipper! On one of my redpoint attempts, I got partially stood up into the undercut and within 3 inches of the final left hand crimp. Alas, although close to the move, I knew I was never going to make it although it was my best go of the season. Still, this was a window into doing the route and got my psyched.
Unfortunately, after this good attempt, on my next go I split a tip on the left hand rat crimp on my third redpoint of the day. I had been trying the link into the Whore of Babylon as a consolation prize and had the moves worked and was in two minds as to whether to go for this of have another go on Hajj. I decided on the latter and the tiny sharp crimps decided I had outstayed my welcome. This meant I had to take 10 days off the route.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4zkCEJpOD0g/VJ9Vnz2ULsI/AAAAAAAAAZE/3ME29h9FoBE/s1600/Mecca+linkup+topo.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4zkCEJpOD0g/VJ9Vnz2ULsI/AAAAAAAAAZE/3ME29h9FoBE/s1600/Mecca+linkup+topo.jpg)
Mecca linkups and projects
It was at this point that I started trying to bag the Whore of Babylon link. This is the red line on the above topo I have drawn of Mecca links and projects. This is a cool linkup that Steve McClure had first done but which I think finished up Crucifixion. The moves from where it leaves Hajj (after the first independent move) are not too hard and the whole 2 bolt sequence before it joins Proud Whore is probably 7b+. The moves are not trivial but way easier than those on Hajj. The finish up Proud Whore, although probably 7b+ again, was steeper and more physical and on my link attempts from the base of the groove on Mecca, proved to be very pumpy indeed!
As late November arrived, me and the ever dwindling band of regulars started to get hit with unreliable conditions as, even though the crag was still essentially bone dry, as soon as the temperature rose above about 6 degrees, the dreaded condensation came on. On Saturdays in a row, this happened, which resulted in frustrating enforced rest in the hope of better conditions the following day. Basically, opportunities for successful redpoints were dwindling fast. Even when the crag was dry, as December rolled around, it unsurprisingly became bitterly cold as the sun now didn't rise above the hill opposite the crag and Mecca got zero sun. One day when I failed to get up Mecca via my usual method in the dusk due to a late arrival at the crag, I decided to experiment with the different ways of gaining the base of the groove, managing to climb it via the classic right hand to the horn method and then, the following week by the Egyptian way method. What I was after was an easier, more reliable method and I hope that I have now found it with the Egyptian way. After all, if Steve and most other people do it this way, there must be a good reason!
As the end of the season approached, I wanted something to show for my efforts and on last session before the Works party, the Whore of Babylon link went down. Unfortunately (or fortunately!) I discovered a really good rest in the Creamteam break before the finish up Proud Whore which took the edge off it, although at the end of the day, this section still has to be climbed and is no pushover. The direct version will be even pumpier. So, with the Tor season ended for 2014, I have been getting stuck back into some plastic training and some much needed new moves. I'm psyched for what the New Year may bring and will be back for Hajj, and other projects, in the Spring! For now its off to Chulila for 15 days of bolt clipping heaven, some onsighting and change of scene, venga bichos!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LQSEmkQKqhk/VJ9Xoj0kZFI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/XQq8BURTctQ/s1600/photo+2.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LQSEmkQKqhk/VJ9Xoj0kZFI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/XQq8BURTctQ/s1600/photo+2.JPG)
A classic 8a route from around Chamonix earlier this summer, can anyone guess which one?
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on August 01, 2015, 01:00:35 am
31 July 2015, 11:43 pm
Hi folks I thought I would write a few words about my experiences on Hajj 8c at the Tor. A UKC Report (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69852) from a few weeks back has the details but I though I would share a few thoughts and reflections on top of that and show a few of the photos, video stills and some of my own tripod footage that I have accumulated. Climbing Hajj represented a big milestone for my climbing and was a culmination of a lot of effort spread over 7 years at the Tor in trying first Mecca in 2007, 2008 and 2009 then the 3 extensions to it (The Extension, Kabaah and Hajj) in 2012, 2013, 2014 and this year.
David Pett's Video 'The Outdoor Office Part 1' of HajjHajj closes a chapter for me and my involvement with Mecca, although I intend to keep doing it for training. Its time to move on to pastures new, even if that might only be 20 feet to the right to Evolution! I didn't like to think about what I would do after clipping the chains on Hajj as I preferred to focus on the challenge at hand. Now it has happened, the last few weeks I have been busy in getting stuck into my next projects. These are True North 8c at Kilnsey and Evolution 8c+ at the Tor. It has been such a pleasure to seriously try such an amazing historic line as True North while fresh on my first day on on a saturday. For the last few years I have usually devoted my freshest climbing days to the Tor and while I don't begrudge that at all as it was all for my long term goal of doing the trilogy of Mecca extensions, the fact was that the years were going by and I wasn't getting a chance to try hard routes at other crags as much as I would have liked. Now I am free and it feels great!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EGl_YWHLkr8/VbvYRwzxrdI/AAAAAAAAAhE/Zy6ijqJ8XuQ/s640/Ted_Hajj.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EGl_YWHLkr8/VbvYRwzxrdI/AAAAAAAAAhE/Zy6ijqJ8XuQ/s1600/Ted_Hajj.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - the crux of Hajj[/td][/tr]
[/table]So, what made the difference to doing Hajj in the end after trying it extensively last year? Well, as always, the devil is in the detail. I will try and explain below the small things I found this Spring when approaching the route with fresh eyes after 6 months away from it that together put me in a position to send the route.My own video of an attempt from last year
After coming back to Hajj in June off the back of my trip to Smith Rock this spring, I noticed it was easier to step my left foot up earlier before (rather than after) slapping into the first undercut for the left hand on the crux. This seemed to make the crux move feel a little easier going into and standing up into the right hand undercut. I had to press my feet a little harder into the tiny smears but once I got the engrams after repeated attempts, I was happy with the end result. Such a small change in beta but such a big difference! Also, I decided to sack off the long quickdraw on the crux and clip it short with my right hand off the undercut to the left of the Extension top pocket rest. As the foothold here is quite big, the position is not strenuous and you clip on your way up to the next handhold anyway. Suddenly the crux move felt easier as I found that before I was making it harder than it had to be by stepping round the rope in a position of some difficulty! My right foot now shot out quicker to the smear out right before I did the big reach up to the final crimps.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uM1rxBkN4ew/VbvYJC_weVI/AAAAAAAAAg8/tJ_lLcQ-rWU/s640/Ted_Mecca.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uM1rxBkN4ew/VbvYJC_weVI/AAAAAAAAAg8/tJ_lLcQ-rWU/s1600/Ted_Mecca.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - Gaining the 'Horn' on Mecca by the 4th bolt[/td][/tr]
[/table]Ally Smith helped me to put in a new dogging bolt on the top crux which enabled me to work the crux moves directly off the rope whereas before I always had to climb into them from 3 moves below as the bolts were all 1 metre off to the right. As soon as the bolt went in, I realised that it was possible to take the undercut slightly lower with all four fingers engaging directly into it and the index and ring fingers biting into the best bit. Again, this made the crux move feel a few percent easier, not by much though.[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-96F0A5OfLWo/VbvYXuEr-8I/AAAAAAAAAhM/PihfJgXdT8s/s640/Mecca.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-96F0A5OfLWo/VbvYXuEr-8I/AAAAAAAAAhM/PihfJgXdT8s/s1600/Mecca.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - Getting into the first kneebar on Mecca[/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td]
[/td][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table]Also, I found that I could use the most miniscule of intermediate pinches for the left hand with a crucial, sharp thumbcatch to help get stood up into the undercut, which I had found on an earlier, too hard method of climbing the crux more to the right but had since discounted (we are talking tiny here, don't get your hopes up!)[/td][td]
[/td][/tr]
[td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OtSUmlfX0fE/VbvYsd3agVI/AAAAAAAAAhk/Jks098EZNn0/s400/Mecca+1st+crux+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OtSUmlfX0fE/VbvYsd3agVI/AAAAAAAAAhk/Jks098EZNn0/s1600/Mecca+1st+crux+%25282%2529.jpg)[/td]
[/tr][tr][td]Video still: The first crux on Mecca[/td][/tr][/table] After failing at the upper crux from the ground five more times in June, I decided to try a new approach doing links from the top down. Two weekends before I did it, I had a massive breakthrough and managed to climb from the 4th bolt to the top and then from the 3rdbolt in the same session. I would recommend the top down approach to anybody looking to get past a sticking point on their redpoint project. I realised that in all my attempts from the ground last year and this year, I had never been from the 4th to the top. Doing this link was a big psychological step. I realised I was now getting fitter on the route, I could feel it on my link goes where I would flick hands between moves just to get a little bit back. By really looking closely and ticking up the best part of the left hand undercut on the crux (which is uneven and quite crozzly but with a better bit for 2 fingers at the bottom of the hold) rather than just getting it any old how was the key to getting the right hand undercut successfully. As you must semi-dynamically slap into the hold, it is tricky to get this right but it certainly made a difference.| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f1m3LL7W1JA/VbvYrvmRBDI/AAAAAAAAAhc/aFhr35Ax5dY/s320/Mecca+Bolt+2%25283%2529.png) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f1m3LL7W1JA/VbvYrvmRBDI/AAAAAAAAAhc/aFhr35Ax5dY/s1600/Mecca+Bolt+2%25283%2529.png) |
| Just before the first undercut on Mecca |
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ti52WCgpi1k/VbvYs44tHnI/AAAAAAAAAhs/jEQCUOSIZWM/s200/Mecca+crux+1+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ti52WCgpi1k/VbvYs44tHnI/AAAAAAAAAhs/jEQCUOSIZWM/s1600/Mecca+crux+1+%25282%2529.jpg) |
| Taking the first lefthand crimp on the main curx of Mecca |
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5OxJ5Om5Ibw/VbvYit3oJRI/AAAAAAAAAhU/_J5KZjDvAnc/s200/Mecca+crux+5+%25282%2529.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5OxJ5Om5Ibw/VbvYit3oJRI/AAAAAAAAAhU/_J5KZjDvAnc/s1600/Mecca+crux+5+%25282%2529.png) |
| Getting ready for the crux jump (for some!) |
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gzs7U1hSzM8/VbvYsA4xNwI/AAAAAAAAAhg/N9x5s6sMvzM/s320/Mecca+Crux+6+%25282%2529.png) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gzs7U1hSzM8/VbvYsA4xNwI/AAAAAAAAAhg/N9x5s6sMvzM/s1600/Mecca+Crux+6+%25282%2529.png)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Catching the horn on the Mecca crux[/td][/tr]
[/table]So, what's next? Well I am excited to move on to new horizons and am having fun trying Evolution and True North. For the former, I may have to raise the bar bouldering-wise as a vicious V11 boulder problem over the roof left of Chimes of Freedom guards the top wall (which must be around 8b in its own right). Not even a spot chalk up on the entire route, tough stuff! One thing for sure, this route is a considerable jump upwards in difficulty from Mecca, not many takers for this one. True North is a little steeper than most of my projects that I have tried but it motivates me to try and get better at this style, which is more Euro style, pumpy endurance cranking rather than straight crimping. [tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CVax6c1J6Vo/Vbv1mHCx-GI/AAAAAAAAAiM/aCY373DVRqU/s400/11813426_10152912518256604_6478935371591383447_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CVax6c1J6Vo/Vbv1mHCx-GI/AAAAAAAAAiM/aCY373DVRqU/s1600/11813426_10152912518256604_6478935371591383447_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jerry Moffatt on Evolution 8c+, Raven Tor [/td][/tr]
[/table]I leave you with Jon Clark's excellent video from last year, which contains some earlier footage of Hajj from last year and sums up the psyche required for climbing at the Tor in December! Thanks for reading and good luck on all your projects out there!Jon Clark's Raven Tor Video (http://www.epictv.com/content/essence-british-sport-climbing-raven-tor-epictv)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 13, 2015, 07:00:19 pm
13 October 2015, 1:46 pm
Now the autumn rains have finally arrived seems a good time to write a few words about my efforts at Kilnsey over the last 2 and a half months. It has mostly been a good, dry summer apart from a 3 week blip in the last half of August and we have even enjoyed something of an Indian Summer through mid September and into early October. Since July, I continued with evening sessions at Raven Tor despite the shortening evening light and had some productive sessions on Evolution, managing to do the top wall in a oner and getting to the two crimps over the lip from the ground and having a go at the crux rockover. I now see what it will take to climb this route, which is more power, put simply! I also did lots of bouldering to keep on top of this side of my climbing doing ever increasing links on Ben's Roof, Powerband and the usual suspects down the right hand of the Tor. However, I decided to devote my energies to True North 8c (the extension to Full Tilt 8b) at the weekends so have put Evo on the back burner for now.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWC8lNaa020/VhwsugnW8mI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/EQ3KI2MaKpU/s640/IMG_1374.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWC8lNaa020/VhwsugnW8mI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/EQ3KI2MaKpU/s1600/IMG_1374.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Adrift in sea of rock. The sanctuary of the kneebar of Full Tilt with 8b climbing to go from here[/td][/tr]
[/table]So, how did True North go? Its been refreshing to try a hard project at a different crag from the Tor or Malham having not spent as much time at Kilnsey over the years. I was psyched to get a highpoint of the next to last bolt and on 3 redpoints got to the second intermediate for the right hand off a big, burly undercut for the left hand just before the slot/ jug on the steepest part of the route (which must be about 60 degrees overhanging). This slot offers a final, brief shake for the left hand only before the last slap for the final jug. On 4 other occasions, I fell a move or two lower with many more redpoints ending on the first crux after the Full Tilt belay passing 2 razor blade crimps.Attempt in September
I would often try the route 2 days on the trot on saturday and sunday as I was paranoid about it getting wet the next weekend, even if the crag was bone dry, given its notorious reputation for taking any seepage going. I was surprised at how even if I was feeling broken on sunday morning, after warming up, I was still able to make some good redpoints, its amazing what you can put your body through. Perhaps in retrospect it might have been better to have done some less intense climbing second day on and got some mileage in on some 8a+'s at other crags which is what I would have done on any other route at my limit. However, obsession took over and I was psyched to gradually piece the route together and get increments of progress with each visit.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PuwjLlbRHp4/VhwoGiGnivI/AAAAAAAAAjM/XIf535JfXGE/s640/IMG_1368.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PuwjLlbRHp4/VhwoGiGnivI/AAAAAAAAAjM/XIf535JfXGE/s1600/IMG_1368.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Match of justice on the first crux of Full Tilt 8b[/td][/tr]
[/table]I still did lots of other climbing though for fitness usually after already intense sessions on True North. Over the summer I did laps on stuff I have done before like the Ashes 7c+, Man with a Gun 7c+, Biological Need 7c, Comedy 7c, Slab Culture 7b+, 50 for 5 7b+ and WYSIWYG 7b+.[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-osO6BPLoST4/VhwqFFvpt8I/AAAAAAAAAj8/oDdyyQx99uM/s400/_MG_1181.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-osO6BPLoST4/VhwqFFvpt8I/AAAAAAAAAj8/oDdyyQx99uM/s1600/_MG_1181.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Comedy 7c[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eF-RbkTXcZw/VhwqJKRSxRI/AAAAAAAAAkE/zasvOx_9NpY/s400/_MG_1173.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eF-RbkTXcZw/VhwqJKRSxRI/AAAAAAAAAkE/zasvOx_9NpY/s1600/_MG_1173.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The lower crux of Comedy[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i_6FuBmD5Is/Vhwpf_8sFcI/AAAAAAAAAjs/AdmJ5m4qaHc/s640/IMG_1461.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i_6FuBmD5Is/Vhwpf_8sFcI/AAAAAAAAAjs/AdmJ5m4qaHc/s1600/IMG_1461.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Vertical tech on Man with a Gun 7c+[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td]
[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table]I also did the following routes for the first time:[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
- Bullet 8a+
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8IRkaobVfIs/VhwpyFWKCGI/AAAAAAAAAj0/HamlfHkEJII/s640/IMG_1469.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8IRkaobVfIs/VhwpyFWKCGI/AAAAAAAAAj0/HamlfHkEJII/s1600/IMG_1469.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Starting the crux moves on Bullet 8a+[/td][/tr]
[/table]- 50 for 5/ The Ashes 8a+
- Complete Control 8a
- Sticky Wicket/ The Ashes 8a
- Rubble 7c (onsight)
- Dreamtime 7c+
- Dead Calm 7c+
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WwM0exS5lr0/Vhwnfl0_DQI/AAAAAAAAAis/8Yz9HRWtKxQ/s640/IMG_1282.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WwM0exS5lr0/Vhwnfl0_DQI/AAAAAAAAAis/8Yz9HRWtKxQ/s1600/IMG_1282.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stamina needed on Dead Calm 7c+[/td][/tr]
[/table]I repeated both of Seb Grieve's new extensions to Dominatrix, Exit to Eden 7c+ and Drag Queen 7c+, which offer good climbing in superb positions on the upper part of North Buttress plus a session trying La Connection 8b and a brief go on Over the Thumb 8a. It has been a busy summer!| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EqxZAy_gx1M/VhwntjJ47GI/AAAAAAAAAjE/xbaR9ARzbtA/s640/IMG_1300.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EqxZAy_gx1M/VhwntjJ47GI/AAAAAAAAAjE/xbaR9ARzbtA/s1600/IMG_1300.JPG) |
| Trying La Connection 8b |
It was frustrating to slip off on several occasions whilst feeling fresh and strong on one time after redpointing Full Tilt as my left hand lost traction in the dampness at the back of the pocket by the belay and by the 3rd bolt when I took a big whip completely out of the blue pinging off a damp pinch, suitable swear words at the ready :). However, ulimately, I cannot blame the dampness or any other reason for not climbing True North. Not being able to get my left hand fully into the deep pocket you clip the Full Tilt belay off before taking the awful thumb press for the right hand and using it to gain the higher razor blade for the left hand (which is one of the harder moves on True North) undoubtedly made this move harder than it had been in August when this pocket had been totally dry. This was because I was using a diabolical polished footdink as my main right foothold and could hardly get any weight through it, making this move desparate as I was so bunched on the handholds; this method may be easier for the short as they are less bunched.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p0AJWBhTRJw/VhwpQHRSEaI/AAAAAAAAAjk/FNDeFGte_VY/s640/IMG_1376.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p0AJWBhTRJw/VhwpQHRSEaI/AAAAAAAAAjk/FNDeFGte_VY/s1600/IMG_1376.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Moving right from the Full Tilt belay into the first crux of True North[/td][/tr]
[/table]However, on my last session on the route on 3rd October (a couple of days before it turned into a waterfall and all attempts were ended for this season), I discovered that I could make this move a fair bit easier by stepping down to a good foothold for my right foot which meant that it didn't really matter if you couldn't bury your hand into the pocket. I was shocked at how much easier this was and was kicking myself that I hadn't spotted this sooner, the perils of redpointing! The lesson here is to always keep trying different methods as even if they had previously seemed not the right way on the dog, 'sequence evolution' can occur and they could morph into the best way of climbing a particular section. I think this is largely down to how you tend to get stronger on the moves throughout a redpoint campaign so keep an open mind out there on your projects folks!On the upper moves off the burly left hand undercut, I also discovered a significantly easier method as I had been too bunched again on all of my 7 best attempts. Basically I had discounted a good, low right foothold by a bolt in favour of putting my right foot straight up on a high, downwards sloping niche hold that I now use later on in the sequence, which made standing up into the undercut the living end on the link, although it felt misleadingly OK on my warmup links. My new sequence has two new foot moves which make this bit easier overall as it is less strenuous and involves keep my feet lower.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DL2qZi9q6TE/VhwowO0xUbI/AAAAAAAAAjc/nYxiEn2ZtJs/s640/IMG_1372.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DL2qZi9q6TE/VhwowO0xUbI/AAAAAAAAAjc/nYxiEn2ZtJs/s1600/IMG_1372.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The hardest move of Full Tilt (for me). Going direct above the 3rd bolt using the boney left sidepull.[/td][/tr]
[/table]So, in retrospect, I am a little disappointed to have redpointed Full Tilt a lot (26 times in total this season) with only a 1 in 4 strike rate at getting through the crimpy moves above the belay and not having the best method on the upper burly moves. This meant I never got to try that last slap in anger from the deck. On the flip side, I am pleased to have been fortunate enough to have discovered 2 much better sequences which should serve me well for next year's campaign. I only wish I still had a dry route to try! Never fear, a return trip to Smith Rock beckons next week, its a hard life. Enjoy your climbing out there!Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: cjsheps on October 13, 2015, 09:20:45 pm
Post by: Doylo on October 13, 2015, 11:08:55 pm
Post by: comPiler on November 14, 2015, 01:00:23 am
13 November 2015, 9:17 pm
I've been back nearly 2 weeks now since another trip to Smith Rock to try the world famous 'Just Do It'. I have been going through the photos that some of the talented photographers, Heather Furtney, Jason Bagby and Julien Havac took of me on the route and thought I would share some of them here. I was excited to see what difference a summer of climbing would make compared to my attempts in May plus the fact that I knew the beta now. As things turned out, I ended up trying True North up until early October due to Kilnsey remaining amazingly dry so it didn't leave much time to prepare for a longer, supposedly pumpier affair like Just Do It. However I needn't have worried as despite its 35m length, this rig is much more about power than stamina, unlike Jibe's other famous line at Smith To Bolt or Not to Be.
I went alone this time and was lucky enough to get belays off some kind local climbers (Andrew, Crit, Justin, Andi and Calvin thanks a tonne!) Conditions were better than in May being mostly colder and without too much wind. The day after flying in and attending the Reel Rock Tour film showing in Bend, I went up to re-familiarise with the moves and the day after, managed to do some decent links on the upper section. It reminded me of how hard the crux by bolt 14 actually is. Imagine a viscous V8+ shouldery, crimp problem on Pill Box Wall on the Orme and you wouldn't be far off! This first hard section leads to a 'pod' resting slot (described in more detail in my post back in May).
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L_S38gRWOjs/VkYwjsRzg4I/AAAAAAAAAl0/f9rktM0uGaA/s400/image30+%25282%2529.jpeg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L_S38gRWOjs/VkYwjsRzg4I/AAAAAAAAAl0/f9rktM0uGaA/s1600/image30+%25282%2529.jpeg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Reaching the crux left hand crimper at bolt 14 (Picture by Heather Furtney)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dnfEHqOp5gs/VkYv0Bdln-I/AAAAAAAAAkg/SSzUMqDXSDo/s400/photo+1+%25284%2529.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dnfEHqOp5gs/VkYv0Bdln-I/AAAAAAAAAkg/SSzUMqDXSDo/s1600/photo+1+%25284%2529.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The crux move at Bolt 14 (Picture by Jason Bagby)[/td][td]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-89S9GDXQDUg/VkYwh12uwUI/AAAAAAAAAlU/QmfAQ7ct36g/s400/image14+%25282%2529.jpeg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-89S9GDXQDUg/VkYwh12uwUI/AAAAAAAAAlU/QmfAQ7ct36g/s1600/image14+%25282%2529.jpeg)[/td][/tr][tr][td] Sticking the 'tooth' by bolt 14 (Picture by Heather Furtney)[/td][/tr]
[/table]From the resting pod, there follows a very tricky and powerful traverse involving two 2 finger pockets for the right hand and some slopers, gradually easing to the belay beyond bolt 17. The move hitting the second 2 finger pocket and locking it to a left hand sloper is probably V8 alone.[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5pXIClWEAJE/VkYwiW-b2AI/AAAAAAAAAlc/gPNgG_qzimU/s640/image19.jpeg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5pXIClWEAJE/VkYwiW-b2AI/AAAAAAAAAlc/gPNgG_qzimU/s1600/image19.jpeg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Leaving the resting pod and starting the tricky traverse at bolt 15 (picture by Heather Furtney)[/td][/tr]
[/table](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SiSw4jsGq4g/VkYwjADTDII/AAAAAAAAAl4/UIjGMH71OG0/s200/image26+%25282%2529.jpeg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SiSw4jsGq4g/VkYwjADTDII/AAAAAAAAAl4/UIjGMH71OG0/s1600/image26+%25282%2529.jpeg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cYR84DY35Y/VkYwizPA2vI/AAAAAAAAAlk/RqxY12RkNqg/s400/image25.jpeg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cYR84DY35Y/VkYwizPA2vI/AAAAAAAAAlk/RqxY12RkNqg/s1600/image25.jpeg)Crossing through to the gaston off the first pocket then using it to stick the second (Pics by Heather Furtney)
Alan Watt's description of the route from his seminal 1992 guidebook is below:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O07fYA1JFBs/VkY1I8xxioI/AAAAAAAAAmM/SN2HYIe5MO8/s640/IMG_1588.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O07fYA1JFBs/VkY1I8xxioI/AAAAAAAAAmM/SN2HYIe5MO8/s1600/IMG_1588.JPG)
I would agree that the first 13 bolts are merely a warm up (!) for the difficulties between bolts 14 and 16 when you are hit with some savage cranks straight off a good but quite pumpy resting rail at bolt 13. These days the bottom part of the route to bolt 10 is considered 13b or 8b due to some very thin pulls on pockets and crimps but after doing it a few times and getting it wired, its probably only 13c or 8a+ I reckon, like Alan Watts says.
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Easier moves at bolt 4 (Picture Jason Bagby)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kPR8YdsjJBc/VkYv0RJ5ODI/AAAAAAAAAkk/6oMObif1HIM/s400/photo+1+%25283%2529.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kPR8YdsjJBc/VkYv0RJ5ODI/AAAAAAAAAkk/6oMObif1HIM/s1600/photo+1+%25283%2529.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Approaching the lower crux at bolt 8 (Picture by Jason Bagby)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I decided this trip to focus at first on links into the upper crux and on my 3rd day on the route was psyched to climb from the rail at bolt 13 to the top for the first time, which is an 8b link. I found a slightly easier method on the crux before the pod by first bumping my left foot up to a small pocket before slapping for the 'tooth' crimp with the right hand which seems to make the move higher percentage. I also found that by trailing your right foot on the move to the left hand crimper on the crux rather than first placing it on smear, this move became much more manageable.On my next session I started climbing from the belay at the end of the first pitch (bolt 10), which must be 8b+ if climbed to the top and links through a 3 bolt 7b or 7b+ to the resting rail at bolt 13 before embarking on the top 8b section. On this link attempt, I was pleased to make it through the crux at bolt 14 (the first time I had ever climbed any distance into it). After a brief shake at the resting pod and chalk on each hand, I got to the stab move to the second 2 finger pocket, just failing to stick it. I have made a little video of my link attempts on the upper section plus the bottom wall to give you a flavour of the climbing involved (and to remember the moves for future attempts):
If I had had more time I would have continued trying this link as it would have been a big confidence boost to have got it in the bag before trying from the ground. However, with only a week left it seemed to make more sense to try the full rig and 'roll the dice'. On my 5th day I started the first of 3 days' worth of attempts from the ground before my trip ended. Each session would start off with 20 minutes warming up on a board indoors before hiking up Misery Ridge to the Monkey and climbing Spank the Monkey, a runout 12a. I would then climb short sections on the route to the top to prepare for full blown attempts. I had 6 attempts, two per session and got to the move slapping for the tooth before the resting pod on 6 occasions in total. I felt closer to this move from the ground than in May when I frequently fell on the previous move to the left hand crimp before the slap to the tooth. It was frustrating not to stick the tooth though and make it to the resting pod. You would think that with an excellent, approaching hands off rest at bolt 9 (I stood here for 2 - 3 minutes on redpoint), you would recover almost back to zero and I felt fresh at this rest on all of these 6 attempts. However, something about having cranked through all of the lower section five minutes before attacking the upper section makes it tougher to crack than if you have simply slumped on the rope at bolt 10.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kM5D9p5Ytbk/VkYv13sW_NI/AAAAAAAAAk8/5Qc7ceU9F3c/s640/photo+5+%25283%2529.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kM5D9p5Ytbk/VkYv13sW_NI/AAAAAAAAAk8/5Qc7ceU9F3c/s1600/photo+5+%25283%2529.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Reaching bolt 16 on a link attempt, nearly there! (Picture by Jason Bagby)[/td][/tr]
[/table]On my 6th session, I managed to one hang the route, resting 5 minutes on bolt 14 before pulling on 2 moves where I had fallen off and climbing to the top, which was definitely progress since my last trip. This was the first time I had done this on the same tie-in, which is a better 'one hang' ascent I guess than if you climb your 'overlapping sections' over different tie-ins or sessions. On my last attempt, despite taking 2 rest days, I definitely felt a bit tired on the route after 7 sessions on it in 13 days. What you need ideally is a longer period of time during which you can do other climbing in order to remain fresh on the route....or a higher overall climbing level. With only 2 weeks at a time available from work, I will have to adopt the latter approach for future trips although perhaps a few days trying easier routes to mix it up a bit wouldn't go amiss. After my last tie-in I hiked down Aggro Gully and managed to onsight Kill the Hate, a cool 5.13a or 7c+ in the gathering gloom and felt that I was feeling stronger in general after the previous 2 weeks of effort so all the hard work is certainly not going to waste![tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uWci28dFpf0/VkZKouGXMhI/AAAAAAAAAmc/oovoE9-Veqo/s640/12185307_989513671071392_8109152468476015027_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uWci28dFpf0/VkZKouGXMhI/AAAAAAAAAmc/oovoE9-Veqo/s1600/12185307_989513671071392_8109152468476015027_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hiking up Misery Ridge to the Monkey Face with Calvin (Picture by Julien Havac)[/td][/tr]
[/table]So, what did I learn from this trip? Well, the experience was invaluable in spending more contact time on the crux and managing to discover some important new beta. I have realised that I need to change my training to get stronger so the crux feels feasible with more climbing in the arms from the lower wall. My previous training in the Spring focused on both stamina and power and I made some gains in both areas. Training for this trip was mainly doing routes outside over the summer at Kilnsey and bouldering on Peak Limestone. For my next trip, I am be changing to a '3 to 1' power/ stamina training plan where fitness is put on the back burner in favour of bouldering and fingerboarding. I think this will help my climbing in general. I want to get back to my bouldering level from a period when I was exclusively bouldering 6 years ago. Fitness training is important for sure but there comes a point in every route climber's career when they have to knuckle down and get stronger. After all, as Tony Yaniro said: "If you can't hold the holds, there is nothing to endure!"I hope these ramblings encourage others out there knuckling down to long term projects. Redpointing ain't easy and if they went down without a fight, it would hardly be worth it would it? Onwards to projects in the UK and the next trip!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mY0irDfrdcA/VkZK5HstqSI/AAAAAAAAAmk/t-FblUXzmeE/s640/11259633_988749874481105_1842435297721279426_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mY0irDfrdcA/VkZK5HstqSI/AAAAAAAAAmk/t-FblUXzmeE/s1600/11259633_988749874481105_1842435297721279426_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A moody looking East Face of the Monkey (Picture by Julian Havac)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: Fiend on November 14, 2015, 09:57:33 am
Good write-up as usual, and an inspiring project. Sack Julien though, that HDR is making my eyes water.
Post by: Kingy on November 14, 2015, 06:45:04 pm
Post by: comPiler on January 11, 2016, 01:00:31 am
10 January 2016, 10:33 pm
Happy New Year everyone, I hope all your climbing wishes come true in 2016! To update you all about the last 2 months or so since I came back from Smith Rock at the start of November, I started a period of exclusively bouldering at the Rockover bouldering centre in Manchester (which is 5 minutes' drive away from where I live) in the evenings after work. I combined this with weekend sessions bouldering in Parisella’s Cave on the Orme outside Llandudno. My aim was to increase my power levels in order to prepare for my objectives for the coming year, which are Just Do It at Smith Rock, True North at Kilnsey and Evolution at Raven Tor and also to prepare for a forthcoming 8 day trip to Suirana I had planned with Ally Smith.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Sv-4wQd9ec/VpLCb8MrltI/AAAAAAAAAns/pUXPSjA1_c4/s640/IMG_20160103_140210304.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Sv-4wQd9ec/VpLCb8MrltI/AAAAAAAAAns/pUXPSjA1_c4/s1600/IMG_20160103_140210304.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Give me more of that orange stone! Mucho Troncdo poca Madera 7c, El Pati, Suirana (the onsight that got away!)[/td][/tr]
[/table]After 6 weeks of pure bouldering I was starting to feel reasonably strong and was coming close to ticking Hatchatrocity, a tough Font 8A in the Cave, falling off the move to the final pocket several times. However, it wasn’t to be after some seriously heavy rain beat down in late November/ early December which meant some key holds required drying before each attempt, which didn't help matters. [tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tkAu-h0Fj-A/VpLEA3DHNQI/AAAAAAAAAoU/Y7ObuFyNQhc/s640/IMG_20160104_122643551.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tkAu-h0Fj-A/VpLEA3DHNQI/AAAAAAAAAoU/Y7ObuFyNQhc/s1600/IMG_20160104_122643551.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Something to train for! Pocket cranking on the steep start to Magic Festival 7c, Raco de Tenebres, Margalef[/td][/tr]
[/table]Also, unfortunately, I sustained quite a bad ‘category 2’ sprain on my left ankle in mid December after bailing out from the Cave one Saturday morning after arriving to find it was completely condensed out. On the way home, an awkward, twisting fall at the Boardroom bouldering centre onto quite a hard mat resulted in a trip to A and E, a precautionary x-ray and 2 weeks of exclusive beastmaker training while the swelling gradually went down. Oh well, take in on the chin as they say! This meant that I had to alter my objectives for my Spain trip. As the first 10 days or so involved getting back to walking normally, hard climbing would have to take a back seat for a week or two. I had intended to try Migranya, a tough 8b which I had tried on a previous trip and which is a powerful number. However, after a trip to my physio, Cathy Gordon of Romiley Physio (see www.romileyphysio.com (http://www.romileyphysio.com/) if you fancy an excellent service in the Manchester area) and getting the all clear to go, I was keen just to see how my ankle would fare and trying more vertical, less intense climbs seemed a sensible plan.[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rfX48ZbrlFA/VpLASQbprvI/AAAAAAAAAnY/S6hxt-FaNkg/s400/IMG_1661.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rfX48ZbrlFA/VpLASQbprvI/AAAAAAAAAnY/S6hxt-FaNkg/s1600/IMG_1661.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ally on La Seconella Direct 7a+, Suiranella Centre[/td][/tr]
[/table]As it worked out, 2 weeks off actual climbing coinciding with the Christmas festivities meant that the first couple of days were spent getting back into the groove and the ankle felt pretty weird and weak at first. Just scrambling in to the crags over rocky and uneven paths without tweaking it was a challenge. I was climbing with a baggy boot on my left foot and a neoprene ankle support to protect it. I was therefore reasonably satisfied to redpoint a 7b+ on my second day. [tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1kKDoeRJ-t4/VpK_ZGBUPsI/AAAAAAAAAnI/3PXz3QbCnkw/s640/IMG_1631.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1kKDoeRJ-t4/VpK_ZGBUPsI/AAAAAAAAAnI/3PXz3QbCnkw/s1600/IMG_1631.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ally at Suiranella Centre[/td][/tr]
[/table]On previous trips, due to quite a few days spent redpointing Zona-0 and Ramadan and trying Migranya, I hadn’t made it round to the Suiranella crags before and I was keen to change that and sample what they had to offer. We ventured round to Suiranella Centre on the 3rd day and I managed to onsight a 7b+ without any problems. The following day, I was starting to feel like my ankle was getting back to normal whilst climbing and I managed to bust out a couple of 7c onsights at Raco de la Finestra, a superb pockety crag in Margalef. [tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iewHJ-BXegw/VpLDlV-PbzI/AAAAAAAAAoE/6zdXrQFfRMY/s640/IMG_20160104_122827240+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iewHJ-BXegw/VpLDlV-PbzI/AAAAAAAAAoE/6zdXrQFfRMY/s1600/IMG_20160104_122827240+%25282%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pockety fun on Magic Festival 7c Raco de Tenebres, Margalef - don't forget the kneebar ;)[/td][/tr]
[/table]After a rest day, and not having a 2 day hangover for a change ;), we decided to hit up Suiranella Centre again. After warming up onsighting a 7b+ and fluffing a tricky 7c, I decided to have a go at Memorias de una Sepia, a crimpy looking 8a after watching another climber crush it and taking mental note of all the foot bumps on the crux. There seemed to be a left foot heel hook move using some poor slopey crimps to deadpoint for some better holds leading into a scoop by the 4th bolt. I had been informed that from here to the top is 7b+ so I knew this should be doable. The heel hook crux went exactly as planned with a few desperate slaps and was the first heel hook since my sprain so I was psyched it still worked and there were no ill effects. Getting into the scoop was satisfying but the rest wasn’t quite as good as I had hoped. Nothing for it but to quest on upwards! Knowing that an 8a flash was on the cards if I could keep it together was a great incentive to keep cranking and I took my time over the next 6 bolts, milking the rests and trying to keep my cool on the last redpoint crux, a crank on some tiny crimps with a left foot jam in a crack leading to a monster jug and easy ground. I was made up to be back climbing nearly at my best onsight/ flash level so soon into my ankle recovery. [tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jwt-g5XtVFs/VpK8w2IG-6I/AAAAAAAAAm0/H2C4hd7p__o/s320/IMG_1656+%25282%2529.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jwt-g5XtVFs/VpK8w2IG-6I/AAAAAAAAAm0/H2C4hd7p__o/s1600/IMG_1656+%25282%2529.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Victory pose after flashing Memorias de una Sepia 8a, Suiranella Centre[/td][/tr]
[/table]To celebrate, I redpointed a tricky 7c, Matarrates, further left on the same crag and eyed up La Crema, a famous 7c+ wall climb I had wanted to try the next day. [tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cgllj4awg-w/VpLDSDyo-II/AAAAAAAAAn8/gkDGTljUk3U/s400/IMG_1670.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cgllj4awg-w/VpLDSDyo-II/AAAAAAAAAn8/gkDGTljUk3U/s1600/IMG_1670.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The bulge of Matarrates, a quality 7c at Suiranella Centre[/td][/tr]
[/table]After a few beers in Goma Dos, the new local bar for climbers in Cornudella, the next day, I warmed up on a 7b and then set off on my onsight attempt of La Crema. It all went well with some tricky, technical moves interspersed with good shakeouts (so much so that I had to force myself to leave them times). A total hands off rest 3 bolts from the top is the nail in the coffin of the route being 8a (it isn’t, despite the abundance of 8a ticks on scorecards out there ;)) and allowed a complete recovery before tackling the top crux. This involves a few intense cranks on some tiny crimps on a slab which allow you to do a hopeful rock-up for some more positive crimps and the jug of glory! I was pleased with this one as while on paper it was my ideal route being a crimpy, vertical wall climb, it still has to climbed at the end of the day. Setting off is the hardest part as always and once into the rhythm of climbing, I enjoyed every minute until the chain was clipped. [tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MxUfzkb_ngw/VpLPiEG7SmI/AAAAAAAAAow/svThIRSbyZs/s400/La+Crema+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MxUfzkb_ngw/VpLPiEG7SmI/AAAAAAAAAow/svThIRSbyZs/s1600/La+Crema+%25282%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Onsighting La Crema 7c+ Suiranella East[/td][/tr]
[/table]Unfortunately, I split a tip on the top crux and had to tape up my right index finger for the remaining 2 days of climbing. This didn’t stop a productive day a Margalef however during which I managed to flash a 7c, La Corva de Felicitat at Raco de Tenebres, a cool, steep conglomerate/ pocket crag and redpoint 2 others including Tsunami, a powerful short one that had got away on my last visit to the area in 2012. (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cxikn5l8VmU/VpLAMw_MNnI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/C7TCziRnjiw/s400/IMG_1678.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cxikn5l8VmU/VpLAMw_MNnI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/C7TCziRnjiw/s1600/IMG_1678.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NUDGkRYcPSM/VpLAnVP2TnI/AAAAAAAAAng/WrkbmoT_aG4/s400/IMG_1681+%25282%2529.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NUDGkRYcPSM/VpLAnVP2TnI/AAAAAAAAAng/WrkbmoT_aG4/s1600/IMG_1681+%25282%2529.JPG)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3u0IP9Ggubc/VpLHdjtsGxI/AAAAAAAAAog/N6F6qtrWWZo/s400/IMG_1688.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3u0IP9Ggubc/VpLHdjtsGxI/AAAAAAAAAog/N6F6qtrWWZo/s1600/IMG_1688.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Tsunami 7c at Sector Laboratori, Margalef (no walk-in required!). Brian Weaver climbing in lower picture[/td][/tr]
[/table]On the final day, we both felt quite tired but last day psyche kicked in and we both managed to redpoint La Ardilla Roja, tricky 7c right of Zona-0 at El Pati after we had failed to onsight it. With an hour to go before we had to bail to Barcelona airport for our evening flight back to Manchester, I managed to onsight a 7c at El Primavera Sector to round off a highly enjoyable trip.I was happy to be back climbing after the ankle incident and whilst the swelling is still there and I am not allowed to jump down from boulder problems for another 10 days, I am pleased with progress so far and psyched to get back to bouldering training. Interestingly, I have always found that a fitness trip like this usually kickstarts my bouldering for some reason, no idea why, maybe a break from a power cycle or something rests the muscles!? I will leave that one to the training boffins out there J Happy climbing folks.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9oGlRpLe0UM/VpK_Sm-AAEI/AAAAAAAAAnA/BCt-qcMmGgo/s640/IMG_1666.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9oGlRpLe0UM/VpK_Sm-AAEI/AAAAAAAAAnA/BCt-qcMmGgo/s1600/IMG_1666.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Suirana Village from Suiranella Centre[/td][/tr]
[/table]My Trip Ticklist above 7b+
8aMemorias de una Sepia(flash) Suiranella Centre7c+La Crema (onsight) Suiranella South
7cAntologica(onsight) Raco de la Finestra, MargalefFesta Fotre(onsight) Raco de la Finestra, MargalefEstratosferica Suiranella CentreMatarrates Suiranella CentreMucho Tronco poca Madera El Pati, Suirana Magic Festival Raco de Tenebres, MargalefLa Corva de Felicitat (flash) Raco de Tenebres, MargalefTsunami Sector Laboratori, MargalefLa Ardilla Roja El Pati, SuiranaHijos de la Pedri (onsight) El Primavera, Suirana
7b+Teoria Punset Suiranella EastLa Refinaria (onsight) Suiranella CentreBerrio Cabrero (onsight) Suiranella Centre
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on May 17, 2016, 01:01:29 am
17 May 2016, 12:20 am
Hi folks, I thought I would write a little round up of the training and bouldering I've been doing over the last 6 months and my latest trip to Smith Rock along with my goals for this summer. The winter was spent training hard, doing a lot of bouldering at the excellent Manchester Depot and fingerboarding on my new beastmaker. I have a nasty ankle sprain back in December to thank for getting me more into 'hangboarding' as the yanks would call it. While laid up in December and before I could jump off properly again in early February, I had a period of intense sessions, often doing 7 climbing sessions per week spread over 5 days, with 2 rest days. Weekends were spent bouldering in Wales, mainly in Parisella's Cave but with frequent visits to Pantymwwn, Tremeirchion and the excellent micro crag, the Gop, near Prestatyn. This was hard work but I was psyched because it was with the overall aim of raising the bar strength-wise so I could have a good chance of making a breakthrough on or actually doing my project 'Just Do It' out at Smith and also to put me in good shape for my projects on UK lime.
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yf44h4y5DUU/VzpGm-6x8AI/AAAAAAAAAqw/gME3LGvNpbo8BGwB9q3gCkZQTb96QGqpgCKgB/s640/IMG_6134.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yf44h4y5DUU/VzpGm-6x8AI/AAAAAAAAAqw/gME3LGvNpbo8BGwB9q3gCkZQTb96QGqpgCKgB/s1600/IMG_6134.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Smoke a Bloke, Font 7b+ at the Gop, North Wales (Pic: Sam Pratt) [/td][/tr]
[/table]When you want something badly enough, you'll go the extra mile and make sacrifices to achieve your aim whether that is an hour less in bed before work, fingerboarding| (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HiXrnBSZJYM/VzpJcqYyylI/AAAAAAAAAq8/0dhoA51DOPQvAOklv6E8rV8WnOFRBERBwCLcB/s320/Photo+13-03-2016%252C+13+03+27+%25281%2529.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HiXrnBSZJYM/VzpJcqYyylI/AAAAAAAAAq8/0dhoA51DOPQvAOklv6E8rV8WnOFRBERBwCLcB/s1600/Photo+13-03-2016%252C+13+03+27+%25281%2529.jpg) |
| The last move of Solomon's Seal Font 7c+ (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
| (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5QgI_braDQ/VzpJf601_mI/AAAAAAAAArA/IkXMbGw_oyoTQ8abn7kh7GoksH0Ay5MswCLcB/s320/IMG_9046.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5QgI_braDQ/VzpJf601_mI/AAAAAAAAArA/IkXMbGw_oyoTQ8abn7kh7GoksH0Ay5MswCLcB/s1600/IMG_9046.jpg) |
| Solomon's Seal 7c+ (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P-Bzymjjt-g/VzpGqq_orfI/AAAAAAAAAq0/sgQDO4_vgH0lxJKnrm5k8azbqoxyvI3hgCKgB/s400/IMG_8158.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P-Bzymjjt-g/VzpGqq_orfI/AAAAAAAAAq0/sgQDO4_vgH0lxJKnrm5k8azbqoxyvI3hgCKgB/s1600/IMG_8158.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]36 Chambers Sit, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVG2lxIcdOo/VzpGxYkN1uI/AAAAAAAAAq0/wmszob_yeb8gA4RqM97whPUXDVlCdl66gCKgB/s400/IMG_8265.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVG2lxIcdOo/VzpGxYkN1uI/AAAAAAAAAq0/wmszob_yeb8gA4RqM97whPUXDVlCdl66gCKgB/s1600/IMG_8265.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The reachy starting moves of 36 Chambers Sit (Font 8A) Pic: Sam Pratt[/td][/tr]
[/table]Sam Pratt, a talented photographer and climber living in Manchester has been coming out with me to Wales and the Peak and has been taking some snaps, some of the best ones are here. Thanks a lot for all these shots Sam! [tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bG0VHknaMKc/VzpGzx0Cc_I/AAAAAAAAAq0/aWmK6Mp5oRA3QWa_TOBeSi3iCK0vTA5yACKgB/s640/IMG_8625.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bG0VHknaMKc/VzpGzx0Cc_I/AAAAAAAAAq0/aWmK6Mp5oRA3QWa_TOBeSi3iCK0vTA5yACKgB/s1600/IMG_8625.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hatchatrocity, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_N0OIvxfqk/VzpG0FGG3bI/AAAAAAAAAq0/aNS7Du1FSXA-SH7Cqvq6naQXEcOElU6eACKgB/s640/IMG_8646.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_N0OIvxfqk/VzpG0FGG3bI/AAAAAAAAAq0/aNS7Du1FSXA-SH7Cqvq6naQXEcOElU6eACKgB/s1600/IMG_8646.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The last few moves of Rockatrocity on the link in from Hatchatrocity, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table]A couple of weekends before flying out to Smith, I had a couple of pretty cold outings to Malham where I managed to tick 'A.B.H' 8a+, a pumpy link up of GBH into Baboo Baboo, which was a good early season outing. I'm looking forward to some more Yorkshire action this summer, with True North, unfinished business from last season, being my primary objective. With Kilnsey already dry, attempts have begun at the time of writing, but more on that in future blogs :).[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--yCTHcvdYrQ/VzpGzv2NOuI/AAAAAAAAAq0/-vuMr1V6m04XWWR7wWWpmLOAB9tiqEFvgCKgB/s400/safe_image.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--yCTHcvdYrQ/VzpGzv2NOuI/AAAAAAAAAq0/-vuMr1V6m04XWWR7wWWpmLOAB9tiqEFvgCKgB/s1600/safe_image.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Under the Bridge, Font 7b+, Pantymwyn (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table]| (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wngFE6_n6Fo/Vzo2Whwd3YI/AAAAAAAAApo/AF9LW6sDK9gnkQ30CJZGdMD1qnup51C9wCLcB/s320/12973253_1073773085978783_2074956048558968582_o.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wngFE6_n6Fo/Vzo2Whwd3YI/AAAAAAAAApo/AF9LW6sDK9gnkQ30CJZGdMD1qnup51C9wCLcB/s1600/12973253_1073773085978783_2074956048558968582_o.jpg) |
| Early on in the lower pitch (Bolts 1 - 10) Pic: Julien Havac |
| (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K582qSHu80k/Vzo2WdHOoJI/AAAAAAAAApk/DkfTttxaStAa-DQ6ooYn4GJbdJtdGG5RACLcB/s640/12957450_1073782139311211_2683271213045467622_o.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K582qSHu80k/Vzo2WdHOoJI/AAAAAAAAApk/DkfTttxaStAa-DQ6ooYn4GJbdJtdGG5RACLcB/s1600/12957450_1073782139311211_2683271213045467622_o.jpg) |
| Gaining the porthole rest at bolt 15 (Pic: Julien Havac) |
My goal on this link attempt was to get to the top and I was chuffed to get to the resting 'porthole' (shown in the picture below of the first ascentionist Jibe Tribout back in 1992) for the second time that session. I realised also that I wasn't that pumped at this point, unlike on many of my other link goes. The moves leaving the porthole constitute the redpoint crux of the route and although not as hard as the crimpy V9 moves gaining it, they are a major hurdle to clipping the chains.
(See my earlier blog post for more detail and photos of these moves: http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/progress-on-just-do-it.html).
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GWj__r4xn8U/Vzo_V25pLjI/AAAAAAAAAqE/D_QKxLEEItkvGiUe-0RGgew3u3xMV6iWACLcB/s320/13046156_10153404645051604_1984367607_n.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GWj__r4xn8U/Vzo_V25pLjI/AAAAAAAAAqE/D_QKxLEEItkvGiUe-0RGgew3u3xMV6iWACLcB/s1600/13046156_10153404645051604_1984367607_n.jpg)It was the move shown in the picture below that I managed to stick for the first time linking from bolt 10, a stab off a tiny left hand gaston crimp into a deep 2 finger pocket with a tiny smear for your right toe that requires a fair degree of accuracy. Unfortunately I fell off the last hard move of the pitch, a throw off a slopey sidepull crimp for your left hand for a crimp rail by bolt 16, which marks the start of the exit moves to bolt 17. Still I was pleased to have nearly done the 8b+ link from the top of the first pitch to the top. So, with 4 climbing days left, I surely had to try from the ground and luckily was blessed with some cooler temps when I next came up to the Monkey with my friend Calvin. On my first go from the ground this trip, I was really pleased to get to the porthole at the 15th bolt for the first time, this link is 8c I reckon if the whole route is 8c+. I was buzzing as on my previous 2 trips I had fallen around 12 times from this move from the ground; it was the breakthrough I had been looking for. In retrospect I hung around too long in the porthole and didn't have the best way of holding it to rest. It is pretty awkward to hold as although it is a good jug, you have to hold it cross handed and there is only room for 7 fingers and the feet are not great so you are mostly on your arms. So when I embarked on the redpoint crux I didn't have much left to give and fell off 3 moves into the traverse rightwards.
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GcY7C2J5uRA/Vzo6kHBUJ3I/AAAAAAAAAp4/-M0g9N1zQuI0WDHMxOsUmw4YcIYhKRuTgCKgB/s640/image25.jpeg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GcY7C2J5uRA/Vzo6kHBUJ3I/AAAAAAAAAp4/-M0g9N1zQuI0WDHMxOsUmw4YcIYhKRuTgCKgB/s1600/image25.jpeg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The upper crux by bolt 15 (Pic: Heather Furtney)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I was then faced with a dilemma with 3 days left. Do I rest 1 day then try the next to last day with the possibility of another attempt on the last day? Or rest 2 full days before an attempt on the last day? Or do some lighter climbing tomorrow then take a single rest day before have a last day attempt? I chose the latter strategy as I felt I was gaining fitness from doing other, easier pitches both on the same day after attempts on Just Do It and also on the next day before taking a rest day. A tick of Churning in the Ozone, a long, pumpy 8a probably in retrospect took more out of me than I expected but I enjoyed the pitch and it is so difficult to judge these things just right. Anyway, the last day dawned and my friend Andrew Hunzicker and me warmed up in Aggro Gully before heading up to the Monkey where we were greeted with really good conditions. After my initial warm up go, I set off feeling really good but unfortunately, the draw on the 14th bolt, which most people don't clip on the lead, stabbed me in the chest during the crux move as I was trying to get really close into the wall, pushing me off the move! I was gutted as this was the first time this had happened and I was feeling really good. No matter, after an hour and fifteen minutes rest and the draw safely removed from the 14th bolt, I had another go and got a new highpoint, making 2 moves further than my previous session and reaching the porthole for the second time. This time I had made a conscious decision not to outstay my welcome and set off after around a minute's shaking out. I had very little left for the pocket stab move but was psyched to have finally got there and had a go in anger. Would I have been fresher after 2 full rest days? Who knows, all I know is that I have proved to myself that this rig is possible for me for sure and that I'll be back next year for hopefully 3 weeks or a longer trip, can't wait! Here is a little video of my best attempt:I was definitely feeling stronger this trip than October last year from all the bouldering and training and now know that as the route is so bouldery, it suits me to go in the Spring rather than the Autumn when a summer campaign of routing will inevitably mean a slight drop off in power at the expense of increased route fitness. So, here's to Spring 2017! In the meantime, there are plenty of hard sport routes to be dealing with here in the UK and I have been on Evolution as well as True North in the last few sessions, its certainly exciting to get involved with all these classic hard routes. Til next time, enjoy your climbing out there!(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--qCfwe3JI54/Vzo2VqvWlII/AAAAAAAAApg/d_7-VuqK-AsJ9p1lrCT4BVakrVieSLy4wCLcB/s640/12968019_1074970539192371_5747847914968571298_o.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--qCfwe3JI54/Vzo2VqvWlII/AAAAAAAAApg/d_7-VuqK-AsJ9p1lrCT4BVakrVieSLy4wCLcB/s1600/12968019_1074970539192371_5747847914968571298_o.jpg)
Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on October 29, 2016, 01:00:33 am
28 October 2016, 11:02 pm
Hi folks, I thought I would update you all on progress on projects which I have been trying this year. As anyone who has devoted more than 3 days to a redpoint project can attest, the closer to your limit a route is the more things have to fall exactly in place for a send to take place. I have been beavering away at 2 main projects this year, at two crags that could not be more different but which I love spending time at in equal measure. The first is True North 8c at Kilnsey in Yorkshire and the second is Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rock out in Oregon, USA. Having multi year projects has its challenges both mental and physical but I am hoping to seal the deal on both of them as soon as I can, roll on next season!
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CbmvW3WgQZk/WBOrHFcME_I/AAAAAAAAAsY/tpqDUcfZZ1wAUy7LwzZXOSqXLAjyb4FOgCLcB/s640/IMG_2290.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CbmvW3WgQZk/WBOrHFcME_I/AAAAAAAAAsY/tpqDUcfZZ1wAUy7LwzZXOSqXLAjyb4FOgCLcB/s1600/IMG_2290.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Leaving the Full Tilt belay on the first crux of True North (Pic - Dale Comley)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I have been out to try Just Do It twice this year, the first time was back in April this year. I was unexpectedly presented with the opportunity of a longer trip than usual at the start of September being in between jobs and didn't hesitate to head back there for a month for another crack but I'll come onto that later.[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mwGYitO2sAc/WBOykF4punI/AAAAAAAAAtE/V9za3sFapCkbgljyW1jrzOQuKMIYqSVUgCLcB/s640/IMG_3663.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mwGYitO2sAc/WBOykF4punI/AAAAAAAAAtE/V9za3sFapCkbgljyW1jrzOQuKMIYqSVUgCLcB/s1600/IMG_3663.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The upper crux of Evolution 8c+, Raven Tor (Pic - Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table]First up, I'll pen a few lines on this years attempts on True North. (My blog on last year's attempts is here: http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/a-kilnsey-summer-and-campaign-on-true.html). After returning from Smith at the end of April, I had a few weekends on Evolution 8c+ at Raven Tor, the other hard project I would like to do eventually if all goes to plan. I made progress on the upper wall and had some good sessions with George on it who was very psyched before picking up a tweak to his finger on Weedkiller :( However, a split tip from repeatedly sessioning the crux move (a vicious lock on the lip of the roof left of Chimes using a tiny 6mm edge) meant I had to take some time off the route, by which time it had warmed up and True North was dry.[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0P_iC3_GXTo/WBOrITjZCII/AAAAAAAAAsc/3tva1u23kKYknNrS0K7qS1neD-xDQJ-NgCLcB/s400/IMG_2299.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Locking the gaston pocket up to the left hand mono at the end of the first crux of True North (Pic - Dale Comley)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Looking back on how the summer panned out, I spent pretty much every weekend at Kilnsey from mid May through to the end of August, including a couple of half days in mid week and spent a lot of time on the route. After a complete sequence rebuild I was able to work out my ideal beta by mid July and made it to the last move for the first time. I got there 6 times in total by mid August which was a breakthrough in itself after failing at the penultimate bolt multiple times last summer, i.e. at the part where it steepens up to 60 degrees around a chunky glued block. What made the difference was firstly going out right by the third bolt on Full Tilt, which actually saves power for higher up on the route, even though its more long winded than going direct. Actually, for all but the most flexible, the direct moves are now basically defunct after a crucial foot spike for the flag move crumbled away (along with a few others, fortunately not irreparably ;)) Also, by keeping my feet lower on the first move after the Full Tilt belay (see pic at top of the page) and bridging out down and to the right so the moves using the razor crimps were less bunched up was much easier than my previous method. On the moves at the glued block, Luke Dawson pointed out that it is easier to throw a left heel up before you slap up for the big slot by the last bolt, which was a huge help and put me on the last move, which was exciting. [tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IguqtQO9y4U/WBOrJC-1kcI/AAAAAAAAAsg/Hfs4j430n70kv3JrtpUlJeRdFA5XB-mBgCLcB/s640/IMG_2305.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Clipping the penultimate bolt on True North, at the 'eyes' and before the glued block (Pic: Dale Comley)[/td][/tr]
[/table]On the last weekend in July, I got to the last move 3 times on the saturday and sunday and it looked like I had a good chance of doing it. However, it wasn't to be as the crag proceeded to get progressively wetter, catastrophically so in mid August, putting paid to all suitors' ambitions for another year (apart from a certain Alex Megos who was the only (2nd go) ascentionist this year). Oh well, this is part of the challenge of the route and it means that you have to really tick it in May/ June or risk running the gauntlet of the crag turning into a waterfall. Next year, I plan to hit the route early and take strategic leave days in May/ June for the campaign. Now knowing my perfect beta, which has definitely been hard won (!) no sessions will be wasted working stuff out so its all down to training and execution.
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjOe7GjXUdo/WBOrW59VeBI/AAAAAAAAAsk/c-bCEeCwV1gpQr21BcLsGwZYx8jGA29zgCLcB/s640/IMG_2309.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjOe7GjXUdo/WBOrW59VeBI/AAAAAAAAAsk/c-bCEeCwV1gpQr21BcLsGwZYx8jGA29zgCLcB/s1600/IMG_2309.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Wrestling with the glued block, which guards entry to the last move, strenuous stuff! (Pic - Dale Comley)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sticking the slot by the last bolt (don't do it this way, whack your left heel up on the block first!) (Pic - Dale Comley)[/td][/tr]
[/table]After North Buttress got wet, I took advantage of the chance to head to Smith at short notice that changing jobs had offered. One moment I was doing a lantern session at Rubicon, the next I was tying on under Just Do It on the Monkey Face, shaking off the jet lag! With a long stretch of 30 days to go for attempts, I was careful to try and avoid trying it too much and in the first 10 days or so, had second day sessions on White Wedding 8b+ or 5.14a in Aggro Gully to mix things up a bit, which I managed to send (see the video below):
So how did the redpoints go? Well at the end of my trip in April, I was pleased to make it to the 'porthole' (see my the second half of my blog post here: http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/winter-bouldering-and-spring-trip-back.html). With a bit more time to play with this trip, I initially spent a few sessions on links in the upper part of the route, managing for the first time to link from the belay of the first vertical 8a+/8b pitch (at the 10th bolt) to the upper chains, which is a 15 meter 8b+ in its own right. Logically, if you can do this link then you should be able to seal the deal from the ground as there is a very good stemming rest just down and right of the 10th bolt, the famous 'Sharma' rest where he takes his jumper off in the Pusher video from 1997, where you can stand around for up to 3 minutes. However, I found during repeated redpoints from the ground that in spite of this rest, the upper crux feels substantially more pumpy than when you approach it just having done the 3 bolt 7b+/7c from the belay.
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--fN2pjvh8OY/WBPIjQUwldI/AAAAAAAAAts/HDergtpEUlIbhDx8r9GneKCA_2VyAr7pwCLcB/s320/IMG_7452.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--fN2pjvh8OY/WBPIjQUwldI/AAAAAAAAAts/HDergtpEUlIbhDx8r9GneKCA_2VyAr7pwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7452.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Not a wet crimp in sight! (Pic - Bob Loomis)[/td][/tr]
[/table]On redpoint from the ground, I would get through the lower crux by the 14th bolt (a savage Font 7b+ crimp move in the steep purple rock) most redpoints (8 times this trip in total) but fail to get through the upper crux due to very high levels of pump. The porthole is such a good hold, albeit with very poor feet that it is tempting to outstay your welcome there. I would generally spend 45 secs to a minute there trying desparately to expel all the lactic acid from my forearms before pressing on. The upper crux feels extremely taxing in that state of pump as it is an insecure Font 7b stab to a deep 2 finger pocket that requires you to retain good form using an awkward right smear and executing a big cross through to a tiny left hand gaston crimp and then to the deep 2 finger pocket. Funnily enough, the stronger you feel and less pumped you are, the easier these moves feel, go figure! [tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K2iq5Pv3FoA/WBPIrQ6TF4I/AAAAAAAAAtw/MdgV_-Sw6V83OIKdRv7SwBGdodUHIomWQCLcB/s640/_MG_2652.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K2iq5Pv3FoA/WBPIrQ6TF4I/AAAAAAAAAtw/MdgV_-Sw6V83OIKdRv7SwBGdodUHIomWQCLcB/s1600/_MG_2652.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]At the first shake by the 5th bolt (5.13b or 8a to here (Pic - Bob Loomis)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I was hit with a 6 day warm spell at the 2 week mark after having 4 or so attempts where I was quite close to sticking the pocket. However, for some reason, I kept repeatedly getting the gaston too low on the cross through and once that happens there is no way back, no adjusting is possible! Hard climbing was pretty much out of the question with temps up to 93F on one day. After some trail building in Cocaine Gully and a few training sessions in shady Aggro Gully, it was time to resume attempts. However, there was now an element of time pressure as I had less than 2 weeks left. The problem with a route of this nature on a relatively short trip is that you need a full rest day between serious attempts due to the sharp nature of the rock and the fact that you are pretty much wasted the next day! The days soon mount up and suddenly I was down to the last week. I was taking 2 full rest days to be totally fresh after a chat with Sonnie Trotter (which was rad!) who gave me some more ideas for foot beta - he sent it back in 2000.
| (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W6FlBbs-fVg/WBPIek1r4oI/AAAAAAAAAto/IalpkhYHrfAZv_l9VEWq1GN8gBS2EounwCLcB/s640/photo+1+%25285%2529.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W6FlBbs-fVg/WBPIek1r4oI/AAAAAAAAAto/IalpkhYHrfAZv_l9VEWq1GN8gBS2EounwCLcB/s1600/photo+1+%25285%2529.JPG) |
| The first crux of the upper section by the 14th bolt, the porthole rest up and left (Pic - Jason Bagby) |
I gave it a really good go with 3 days to go with Calvin in pretty much perfect temps of 56F and had one finger in the back of the 2 finger pocket on the upper crux and felt the least pumped yet in the porthole. However, as soon as my left fingers bit into the sharp gaston on the cross through I knew I was a little too low on it again, my body sagged downwards slightly and my left elbow went up... I was off again! On my last attempt on the last day after only one rest day where the very friendly French climbers Nina Caprez and Christophe Bichet were enjoying their second day in the Park up on the Monkey I didn't manage to make it to the porthole due to still being fatigued from my last attempt.
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQr2vsrw8l0/WBPIY2qfS-I/AAAAAAAAAtk/gdYc6w-_7Mgs5TNKMQ39kLaBZn-nNRobgCLcB/s640/image23.jpeg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQr2vsrw8l0/WBPIY2qfS-I/AAAAAAAAAtk/gdYc6w-_7Mgs5TNKMQ39kLaBZn-nNRobgCLcB/s1600/image23.jpeg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]:Leaving the porthole, the big span for the first 2 finger pocket (Pic - Heather Furtney)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I am more motivated than ever to return as I have a better idea of what is required in order to send this beast having been up to the redpoint crux a fair few times now. You need to be both fit and strong at the same time, not an easy combo! There are plenty of climbers out there with multi-year projects in a similar situation who I draw inspiration from. Back at Malham and the Tor and in a new job, I am reflecting on the experience and already planning my winter's training for next year's bout on both Just Do It and True North. Thanks for reading and keep the faith on your projects out there![tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XsC7fv4uZn0/WBO3qc9pzhI/AAAAAAAAAtU/6PH9EMHosJEKLHhNnBKKyr8m3qNAdPlCQCLcB/s640/DSC03074-Edit.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XsC7fv4uZn0/WBO3qc9pzhI/AAAAAAAAAtU/6PH9EMHosJEKLHhNnBKKyr8m3qNAdPlCQCLcB/s1600/DSC03074-Edit.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Just Do It 8c+, East Face of the Monkey, Smith Rock (Pic: Adam McKibben)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on April 18, 2017, 06:37:55 pm
16 April 2017, 12:45 pm
I thought it was about time I put pen to paper, so to speak, and write a little update on my winter's bouldering and training for you to digest while you are all munching your Easter eggs! The last time I blogged last year I was about to embark on a period of indoor training and bouldering with all the crags either already seeping or about to. I had some interesting sessions at Malham and Raven Tor right at the end of the routes season on Pete Dawson's new route Something for Nothing 8c and Evolution 8c+, making some mini breakthroughs on both, which has given me something to think about over the winter.
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RBIAJ2PqXdk/WPNEzMR9pgI/AAAAAAAAAvA/kdSnEkOga80hxXX7dQVvNYPGina9y2i8wCLcB/s640/IMG_8783.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RBIAJ2PqXdk/WPNEzMR9pgI/AAAAAAAAAvA/kdSnEkOga80hxXX7dQVvNYPGina9y2i8wCLcB/s1600/IMG_8783.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Texas Hold Em Font 7B+, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table]From November onwards up until recently, I have been doing the Chris Webb Parson's one arm hang programme before work on Tuesday and Thursday mornings followed by an evening session of either bouldering at the Manchester Depot or Rockover or routes at Stockport wall. I had a highly enjoyable week in El Chorro over New Year where I managed to get two fantastic 8a's done which I had tried 16 years (!) previously, Lourdes and Musas Inquietantas, the latter route being these days very difficult to get on with the Gorge walkway being now commercialised.[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B9VRml1d9fU/WPNIPJMUCGI/AAAAAAAAAvY/nCkErmCz1Hs9KnroMQLOxLVXvxjULDhcgCLcB/s640/Adam+edited+pic2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B9VRml1d9fU/WPNIPJMUCGI/AAAAAAAAAvY/nCkErmCz1Hs9KnroMQLOxLVXvxjULDhcgCLcB/s1600/Adam+edited+pic2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Musas Inquietantas 8a, Lower Gorge, El Chorro (Pic; Adam Bailes)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gaf2Jtk2tdE/WPNR1eRTYBI/AAAAAAAAAvo/CA_u7VFEwLM8oLWdDR988Hn8dqPk1oIrwCLcB/s640/IMG_3045.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gaf2Jtk2tdE/WPNR1eRTYBI/AAAAAAAAAvo/CA_u7VFEwLM8oLWdDR988Hn8dqPk1oIrwCLcB/s1600/IMG_3045.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Porrot 7c+, Makinodromo, El Chorro[/td][/tr]
[/table]Since getting back from El Chorro, I have been getting out bouldering at the weekends as much as possible - pulling down on real rock at regular intervals is important for psyche after all! A lot of visits have been to Parisella's Cave where some extremely cold and windy sessions were had but also to Pill Box Wall and Sunny Wall on the Orme and Tremeirchion and the Gop near Prestatyn plus a day at Trowbarrow in the Lakes. I was chuffed that I have managed to tick off some of my hardest boulder problems, including my longstanding nemesis, Drink Driving V12 on Pill Box Wall, which has been satisfying. Halfway House V10 and In Life (lite) V11 in the Cave, Silence of the Trams Sit V10 at Sunny Wall, Enter the Dragon V12 at Tremeirchion and Push the Button V10 at the Gop have been stand out problems. I'm well keen for more though, its addictive this bouldering game! I have done some videos on my Youtube and Vimeo of some of these boulders if anybody is interested in getting any beta for their own ascents:Youtube bouldering (https://www.youtube.com/user/TedKingsnorth) Vimeo bouldering (https://vimeo.com/user790076)
Here are a few pictures of the bouldering I've accumlated over the last few months:
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Umosu65Pjxo/WPNEaT5QFPI/AAAAAAAAAu0/PbNq35n7Z4EmuFPbxRORZUKvgcO3T14WgCLcB/s640/IMG_6965.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Umosu65Pjxo/WPNEaT5QFPI/AAAAAAAAAu0/PbNq35n7Z4EmuFPbxRORZUKvgcO3T14WgCLcB/s1600/IMG_6965.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Halfway House Font 7C+, Parisella's Cave (Pic: Ally Smith)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P5kW4NG9ax0/WPNEkNAidXI/AAAAAAAAAu4/YgUyvHQebAMMI-mxImx4iPM3b8yCtGeYgCLcB/s400/IMG_8653.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P5kW4NG9ax0/WPNEkNAidXI/AAAAAAAAAu4/YgUyvHQebAMMI-mxImx4iPM3b8yCtGeYgCLcB/s1600/IMG_8653.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pit Problem Font 7B, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ktxiytg-gJ8/WPNE2dMBnwI/AAAAAAAAAvE/6qinu-rNsiEW6WUKzPaabm20LtaRZi3wACLcB/s400/IMG_8706.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ktxiytg-gJ8/WPNE2dMBnwI/AAAAAAAAAvE/6qinu-rNsiEW6WUKzPaabm20LtaRZi3wACLcB/s1600/IMG_8706.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Texas Hold Em Font 7B+, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Vv1-UYgBo8/WPNEt-5AZsI/AAAAAAAAAu8/Hu0absV6Qpwf9TtaNw7PMcn2xs_fyq9DgCLcB/s400/IMG_7094.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Vv1-UYgBo8/WPNEt-5AZsI/AAAAAAAAAu8/Hu0absV6Qpwf9TtaNw7PMcn2xs_fyq9DgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7094.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Lizard King Font 7C, under Dinas Mot (Pic: George Dunning)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JhVUphG8GEM/WPNE3U4QhqI/AAAAAAAAAvI/9_AruFgexwoGgzrOvwYjgq5WZTH2p4fuwCLcB/s400/Tracks1.png) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JhVUphG8GEM/WPNE3U4QhqI/AAAAAAAAAvI/9_AruFgexwoGgzrOvwYjgq5WZTH2p4fuwCLcB/s1600/Tracks1.png)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Tracks Font 8A, Barrel Cave (video still)[/td][/tr]
[/table]The last few weekends, I have managed to get to Llanberis Pass as the weather has improved to try out some problems I have heard a lot about at some new venues, which I think is important to do in order to avoid going stale at your regular crags. It has been cool to climb stuff like The Tracks V11 in the Barrel Cave and the Lizard King V9 under Dinas Mot and Corridors of Power V10 in the Cwm Glas Bach boulders over a handful of visits, which has left me hungry for more![tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yNLXj-4IMrg/WPNFGQh722I/AAAAAAAAAvM/non8ZeHxxcUNnisUMDp3xH3tpMtPX27mQCLcB/s640/_MG_7205.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yNLXj-4IMrg/WPNFGQh722I/AAAAAAAAAvM/non8ZeHxxcUNnisUMDp3xH3tpMtPX27mQCLcB/s1600/_MG_7205.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pump up the Valium Font 7c+, Raven Tor (Pic: Ally Smith)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Recently, I was psyched to do a one arm hang on the central bottom rung of the Beastmaker 2000 without rotating and with no weight taken off for the first time, which is definitely progress! Here is a little video of the first time I did this on my right arm:Now, thoughts are turning to the forthcoming routes season and I have already been back to Raven Tor and Malham to get involved with some of my projects there. This year, I am going to try and boulder as much as possible as well over the summer, to keep the power up - its got to help on those route cruxes. So, stay psyched out there and whether you are going for boulder or route projects this spring, try hard and all the training will be worth it in the end!
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-prHQHuvGKzU/WPNEQEQ3lSI/AAAAAAAAAus/4WDavNT5VzstsNd3X4DxTEFGzRhfOdvFQCLcB/s400/IMG_7075.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-prHQHuvGKzU/WPNEQEQ3lSI/AAAAAAAAAus/4WDavNT5VzstsNd3X4DxTEFGzRhfOdvFQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7075.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table][/td][/tr]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Views from Sunny Wall, Great Orme[/td][/tr]
[/table]Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: comPiler on June 15, 2017, 01:01:53 am
14 June 2017, 9:18 pm
I thought I would bring you all up to date with what I've been up to over the last 2 months or so on the Yorkshire sport crags. Since mid April and pretty much as soon as both crags properly dried out, I have been heading to Malham and Kilnsey with some unfinished business in mind. High up on my list of projects were Pete Dawson's Something for Nothing 8c at Malham and True North 8c at Kilnsey, both of which I had been involved with since 2014.
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FTj17tk5MzU/WUGDJ_T_seI/AAAAAAAAAw8/xZm-xVZ58UARz2m2yl3vbdxghaD_NhydACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_0965.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FTj17tk5MzU/WUGDJ_T_seI/AAAAAAAAAw8/xZm-xVZ58UARz2m2yl3vbdxghaD_NhydACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0965.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The crux of True North 8c at Kilnsey (Pic: Sam Pratt). My old, duff method![/td][/tr]
[/table]By early April, I was making good progress on one of my projects in the Cave, In Hell V12 but I made the decision to cease attempts on that for now and divert all my energies into sport projects. My aim was to capitalise on a sustained period of bouldering and deadhanging since November last year. In Hell will always be there and is one of the driest problems around so it was an easy decision to make, even though I had been close, falling off 3 times after the flake match on Rockatrocity. Only one way to find out if I would be fit enough for Yorkshire, get involved! I had had some good burns on Something for Nothing back in November when Pete did the first ascent, getting halfway through the crux sequence by the last bolt. However, there is a savage crank off a 2 finger pocket to a distant undercut on the crux and this always stopped me cold trying it from the ground. With this in mind, my first objective on day 1 this year was to try and get the key link climbed from the 6th bolt of Cry Freedom (before the 1st crux of that route) to the top. On a half day off work with Al belaying, I shocked myself by climbing this link on my second day back on the route. This piece of climbing must rate 8b+ and only leaves the small matter of the introductory 7c of Cry Freedom leading to the undercut shakeout at the 6th bolt to link in. I felt way better than when I was last trying the rig in November, game on!
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bDamn9TE61g/WUF_MJUDLuI/AAAAAAAAAwo/BgOvvMnYMyU1PMWo_cCKBkUKH59ZRwPbwCLcBGAs/s400/SfN3.png) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bDamn9TE61g/WUF_MJUDLuI/AAAAAAAAAwo/BgOvvMnYMyU1PMWo_cCKBkUKH59ZRwPbwCLcBGAs/s1600/SfN3.png)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The crux of Something for Nothing 8c at Malham (Screengrab from video footage)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Barely able to contain psyche in between visits to the crag, I started the familiar process of trying to batter the route into submission. It took a few more visits on strategic half days off work to get it in the bag. I found that the stopping point on all of my redpoints was standing up into the crux undercut that you cross through to with your left hand off the 2 finger pocket. I must have had about 7 redpoints (2 a day) reaching this point before I finally managed to creep over the line and stand up to quickly reach over for the sloper which marks the end of the crux sequence. With Rich Waterton belaying it was an incredible feeling topping this one out, the end of 4 year saga!
Video of Something for Nothing 8c
So, one down and my thoughts turned immediately to Kilnsey where I had already had a few sessions in late April refreshing the moves on True North. Kilnsey in April is not for the faint hearted and several baltic sessions were had where the only respite from the bitter north wind was hiding in the car inbetween burns. Iain McDonald kindly held my rope on a few occasions where I didn't have a belayer and, desparate to keep momentum up and with nobody keen to freeze their asses off, I rocked up at the crag on my own, a big shout out to him!
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-82yC_ZWE5mk/WUF8KF5innI/AAAAAAAAAwI/hKxm92miedYaBiAgnu0d7LIhWyHNJq87gCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_0620.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-82yC_ZWE5mk/WUF8KF5innI/AAAAAAAAAwI/hKxm92miedYaBiAgnu0d7LIhWyHNJq87gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0620.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Nearing the top of True North (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I have blogged about my efforts on this one twice previously for those interested in a bit of background to the campaign:Blog from 2015 attempts (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/a-kilnsey-summer-and-campaign-on-true.html) Blog from attempts last year (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/project-updates-from-kilnsey-and-smith.html)
So, without rehashing what I have already written about, I will just add that this time around, I was very lucky in that the crag co-operated in kindly remaining bone dry from mid April until early June, a period of 8 weeks, which to North Buttress regulars is almost unheard of. Regular sessions on the route on saturday and sunday coupled with the fitness I had gained from my Malham stint soon resulted in me getting up to the last move again, a highpoint I had last reached in August last year. The whole season was ahead of me this time, which made a massive difference mentally. Knowing that there was plenty of time to finish the route off even if it got wet, only left the small matter of actually climbing it, easier said than done!
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-brAFPK5Bj9c/WUF8KEHk1jI/AAAAAAAAAwM/uNBJ9xzlo30AeP5AUU2D3RCxZEAcTiFeACLcBGAs/s320/IMG_0742.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-brAFPK5Bj9c/WUF8KEHk1jI/AAAAAAAAAwM/uNBJ9xzlo30AeP5AUU2D3RCxZEAcTiFeACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0742.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hanging out on the last bolt of True North (Pic: Sam Pratt)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I kept on with the sequence on the last move I had tried a lot last year, involving a deep right foot dropknee onto a low fin with my left foot still on the glued block. Unfortunately, I kept getting spat off as the recoil when coming out of this dropknee was savage! I was able to link through this fine from the Full Tilt belay and it was doable, although not every time, from the kneebar by the 5th bolt on Full Tilt. As soon as I tried it from the ground though, even after 2 full days rest and a perfect go where nothing went wrong, I was still getting shut down. When my falls off the last move (including last year) went into double figures, I knew it was time to change things up a bit.[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mLQGWhK9wUg/WUGA0j_cogI/AAAAAAAAAww/C5es-v8iaaIkvCbLn-r6CHDq85a5pcZHwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2302.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mLQGWhK9wUg/WUGA0j_cogI/AAAAAAAAAww/C5es-v8iaaIkvCbLn-r6CHDq85a5pcZHwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2302.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Reaching the 'eyes' on True North (Pic: Dale Comley)
I reverted back to a sequence that Will Kelsall and Tim Palmer had told me about involving taking the crux crimp with my left hand and slapping straight for the sloper below the finishing jug with my right hand. Although this was a powerful slap, it had the merit of being quick, involving only 2 moves as opposed to my old method's 4, plus even fewer footmoves. I had tried this method last year but had discounted it as being too powerful.[/td][/tr]
[/table]I reverted back to a sequence that Will Kelsall and Tim Palmer had told me about involving taking the crux crimp with my left hand and slapping straight for the sloper below the finishing jug with my right hand. Although this was a powerful slap, it had the merit of being quick, involving only 2 moves as opposed to my old method's 4, plus even fewer footmoves. I had tried this method last year but had discounted it as being too powerful.[/td][/tr]
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rTbWKVmoU94/WUGBERke_AI/AAAAAAAAAw0/zq-xC_DoPfIj-6tQSGMxJmIDQljQRMrMgCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_2307.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rTbWKVmoU94/WUGBERke_AI/AAAAAAAAAw0/zq-xC_DoPfIj-6tQSGMxJmIDQljQRMrMgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2307.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Steepening up! Stretching for the glued block on True North (Pic: Dale Comley)[/td][/tr]
[/table]The first time I tried from the ground with the new method was way better than last year and I immediately knew this is the way it would go down. I had a very close couple of goes where I tickled the sloper twice on the day when Pete Dawson sent it first try (a totally awesome effort!!) I knew I would have a good chance the next saturday as long as the route was dry. After a final light session doing routes at Manchester Climbing Centre on Wednesday and 2 full rest days on Thursday and Friday, I headed to the crag on Saturday morning trying to keep focused. [tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VFE9yb0zkX4/WUF9Q1QyEvI/AAAAAAAAAwY/mIMrUjNAL1wkCyCc6ZqH9q0S2wjSnP1JQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_8843.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VFE9yb0zkX4/WUF9Q1QyEvI/AAAAAAAAAwY/mIMrUjNAL1wkCyCc6ZqH9q0S2wjSnP1JQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_8843.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Approaching the crux on Mandela 8a+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo)[/td][/tr]
[/table]On my first go, I felt really good, the best I have ever felt on the route. I was amazed to finally stick the sloper from the ground and thought surely, this is it! Unfortunately, I couldn't find the small, white toe hold needed to stand up and roll over to the finishing jug and I dropped off unexpectedly, utterly gutted! I forced myself to recompose and had 90 minutes rest. I went back to the car to keep warm and gather my thoughts. On the second go, I had in mind that I had done Something for Nothing on my second go of the day so knew it was possible. I didn't feel quite as good as my first try but soon found myself at the last move. I gave it everything I had and grunted my way up to the sloper again. This time there was no mistake and with the last ounce of energy I had left, I rolled over with my left hand into the jug, it was done!! I was ultra focused on the still tricky, balancy rockover shared with Urgent Action and then took my time on the final groove. Clipping the belay was a massive relief after the efforts of the last 4 years and brought to a close a big investment in the route. I was too far down the road to quit, the stuggle must continue to the bitter end!Video of True North 8c
Over the last month, I have enjoyed briefly being project free at the crag. I ticked Mandela 8a+ the other week, which was a long term ambition of mine.
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YYTKH3cFuVc/WUGHashfagI/AAAAAAAAAxI/fbyH4Yifo7ccEI1xskt6Y7fzAeqNfW16wCLcBGAs/s400/Progress2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YYTKH3cFuVc/WUGHashfagI/AAAAAAAAAxI/fbyH4Yifo7ccEI1xskt6Y7fzAeqNfW16wCLcBGAs/s1600/Progress2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]New project time! The lower crux of Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo)[/td][/tr]
[/table]I have also started to make inroads into my next project, Jerry Moffat's 'Progress' an 8c+ 10 meters to the left of True North. This one remains a lot drier than True North and perhaps suits my natural style a little better, being more fingery. Until next time and good luck on all your projects out there! [tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pbo3V6S3s78/WUGHat7FVNI/AAAAAAAAAxE/NcBE9S0_QqkCjYKwLxxhiFB1QgY6pAl_ACLcBGAs/s400/Progess1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pbo3V6S3s78/WUGHat7FVNI/AAAAAAAAAxE/NcBE9S0_QqkCjYKwLxxhiFB1QgY6pAl_ACLcBGAs/s1600/Progess1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Powerful moves by the 4th bolt on Progress (Pic: Kris Suriyo)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Source: Ted's Blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/)
Post by: Kingy on December 17, 2017, 09:22:25 pm
https://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/summer-and-autumn-round-up-yorkshire.html (https://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/summer-and-autumn-round-up-yorkshire.html)
Post by: Steve R on December 17, 2017, 11:25:42 pm
Post by: Kingy on December 18, 2017, 12:38:48 pm
Post by: Kingy on June 11, 2018, 11:09:41 pm
http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2018/06/just-do-it.html (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2018/06/just-do-it.html)
Post by: jwi on June 12, 2018, 11:43:29 am
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 12, 2018, 02:45:32 pm
Really enjoyed reading it, and what a great source of psyche!
I was reading it one sentence at a time at the end, savouring the moment.
You really do capture the challenge really well.
A takeaway for me - from your blog in general - is the amount of general climbing volume you get in.
Wonderful effort :beer2: :clap2:
Post by: highrepute on June 12, 2018, 05:27:26 pm
Post by: Kingy on June 12, 2018, 08:48:50 pm
Post by: comPiler on September 17, 2018, 05:32:28 pm
Hi folks just to update you on the last few months of activity on god's own rock. I decided that instead of costly trips to the Orme I would focus on Peak gritstone to generate some new ticks instead of working on things like Drink Driving, which would require a lot of work towards the redpoint, with no guarantee of success.There's nothing quite like a tick to keep the enthusiasm up and that has been my primary focus. I have been through my guide to see the glaring ommissions and made a point of seeking some of them out. Unfortunately, I managed to tear a stomach muscle about 5 weeks ago on repeated attempts on a steep problem at Stockport wall which stopped me in my tracks a bit as I couldn't even get out of bed without pain nevermind swing my core around on steep ground! This proved to be something of a blessing in disguise as I managed to tick some slabs and walls which i perhaps wouldn't have otherwise tried.
My best grit ticks over the last 2 months have been:
- Brad Pit (with top out) (see vid below)
- Ben's Wall
- Barry Sheene
- Shirley's Shining Temple
- Silk
- Who Needs Ready Brek?
- Business Lunch
- Stump Hole Cavern Sit (Flash)
- Brutal Arete
- Beneath the Breadline
- David
- Flatworld Lefthand
- For a Few Beagles More
The highlight was probably Shirleys and big props to Dan Cheatham for his vid for all the beta. This took me 3 sessions to unlock as it features some vicious cranking on minute pebbles and crimps if you can't get the palm-down to work (as i couldn't). Ironically this came on a sunny, hot day and i was in 2 minds as to whether to sack it off and come back in the evening. Im glad i persisted though and the first time i managed to crank through the start bulge, I made it up the rest of the slab via some pretty eye-popping rockovers! Luckily some people nearby gave me a spot although with my 3 pads it would have been fine to lob off i reckon. This was a fair bit harder than Silk and more sustained, fair at Font 7c for me.
On Barry Sheene, i managed to finally get the heel toe to work to generate enough reach (just) and perhaps the most satisfying tick of all was Ben's Wall, which I have been trying since 2008! Here is a video of a near miss a couple of weeks prior to the eventual send, agonisingly close but no cigar. I was getting concerned about the problem's potential to rag your A2 pulley on the nasty undercut pocket the way I was doing it going with my right hand. Thankfully the time it went down, I caught the pocket so well, there was no outswing (unlike on the vid), a great moment after hundreds of tries over the years.
Brutal arete was great and lived up to its rep. I was joined by Emlyn and Ben who showed me the numbers (cheers guys!) After a near miss (see vid below) it went down next session.
Equaling my hardest flash was Stump Hole Cavern Sit, thanks to Chris's vid, it proved to be a very short visit there. A dash down to the Roaches as my third crag of the day yielded Who Needs Ready Brek, which is pretty amazing and about as crimpy as they come.
Looking to the future, I was surprised at being able to pull on to the Joker fine, unlike in previous years, and having a few waves at the top. This has now moved onto the project list and I look forward to a tussle with it perhaps next winter now the lime season is nearly upon us.
I leave you with one from Dan Cheatam of Famous Grouse from last year, capturing a well desired ascent after literally years of tries! Sometimes its all worth it.
Source: Gritstone Roundup (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 18, 2018, 01:01:22 am
Welcome readers, time for an update from the Jura from our spring trip. Well it would be fair to say that the crags were a bit wet to say the least but we made the best of it and traded in our dreamt of projects for some 1 and 2 star material which was dry and probably almost as good as the stuff we meant to get on. We had an abortive visit to the southern crags where we had planned to get on, amongst others, Hercules, a superclassic 7c at Barenschlucht, and maybe Nightmare, an amazing 8b with an infamous clip off a mono. However, a deluge of rain and seeping crags put paid to that plan and scarcely had the tent been pitched at the deserted campsite when it was taken down and we had bailed back up to our base in the north.
The crags in the north of the Jura are relatively unsung but boast some pretty high calibre climbs with such lines as Nikita, the standout 8a+ classic and the brutal Raise the Roof, an 8b+ which could not be much steeper! Unfortunately, most of these climbs were seeping but the lads managed to get up a few 8a's and 8a+'s at Holzgauerwand, where Nikita is located, despite the odd spoogey pocket (make that most pockets!!)
For my part, I managed to get up Infiziert, a nice 9+ or 8a at Rolandfels that consisted of a sustained wall on crimps and small pockets leading to a wet crux crimp and shakeout jug. From there the style changed to some awkward pull of slopers and strange pockets leading to the loweroff. Quite a few redpoints were expended on this section resulting in some exciting whippers!
Ethan on Nullkommanix 8a+ (Rolandfels)
We had a rather character building doss in the cave at this crag on a bed of leaves living the true outdoor life! The morning brew sure tasted good made with water hulked up the hill from the nearby river.
The saving grace of the trip was definitely a sunny wall called Kuhkirchnerwand near a charming village called Loch. This crag was dry and south facing but the flip side was that it was hot as hell in the sun and pretty busy at weekends to boot.
Crag scene at Kuhkirchnerwand, Loch
The popular steep 8a+ of Primeur de Luxe that saw sends from Ed and Ethan seemed to often have queues but thankfully it was so steep that people were not on it for long.
Ethan on Primeur de Luxe 8a+ (or 10-)
I went for a bouldery number called Fingerfood 10- (or 8a+). This had a Rubicon style crux right off the deck which was probably V8 involving pulling on a tiny tooth and then rocking onto it to gain a shakeout jug. The final 4 bolts were probably 7b+ or 7c with some intense pulls on small crimps and pockets.
Fingerfood 8a+ (or 10-)
Sam and I indulged in the Wolfgang Gullich classic crack of Heinzin 8 just to the left, originally climbed on trad I believe that gave an exercise in technical bridging with some jug pulling and rattly finger jams to boot, awesome!
Heinzin 8 (or 7a)
Another good find was the microcrag of Andeltodrom, which is randomly located in the middle of some dense woods and rather difficult to find with the limited (to say the least!) descriptions in the Extreme Frankejura Select guide. The crag is tilted at 45 degreees for 30 feet and climbing on it is like going up a giant woodie. Hakuma Madada is the route of the crag at a stout 7c on some tasty pockets, and saw several flashes.
We had a couple of nights out to nearby Bamberg to sample the infamous weissbier, which at 2 Euros a pint is hard to quibble with! Snitzel was duly sampled along with the ubiquitous sauerkraut. Drinking and hard sending don't tend to mix, funnily enough, but luckily there is a place for both on any well balanced trip.
To sum up, to borrow a quote from Dosage III, whenever the season was, it was not now! We had a blast, didn't we boys!!
Sam on Stalingrad 7b+
Ed on SMS 8a+
Source: Frankenjura 2013 (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 18, 2018, 01:00:11 pm
Well some of the dust has settled since I finally managed to complete the extension last sunday so now seems as good a time as any to set down some thoughts. Hopefully the following will cause others to get psyched and get out there to send some things at their personal limit! This might be a bit long for some tastes but if so, just skip to the last paragraph! Ever since ticking Mecca in 2009 I had a vague notion of going higher and had briefly checked out the extension in 2006 when I could barely do a move. You need to put a lot of time in up there to get used to the snatchy and insecure style of movement on poor fingerholds and timebomb smears. Yes, the top half is in complete contrast to the lower part, which is essentially a power endurance fest. Instead, it demands execution of complex and tenuous, technical moves which, once learned, start to feel easier once the engrams become engrained. I had such a battle getting up Mecca since first trying it in 2006 that all thoughts of the extension went out of the window. 50 sessions and 4 years later, I eventually clipped the chains once I got back from the Dolomites in August on a trip with Ben Heason.
Over next 3 years, I moved away from Manchester to Jersey and Dorset before returning to my homeland in 2011. The Tor fitness was not quite there though and it took all of last year to get back up to scratch. I had a difficult decision to make because I had wanted to get on Make it Funky as I had done a good link on this from the end of the crux to the top after doing Mecca and wanted a completely new project. However, the best laid plans are sometimes blown to smithereens and I hyperextended my right ring finger on the famous 7c+ Mirage in Ceuse summer 2011. Having sent 8a on it on the last day of the trip, the finger swelled up and an xray back home revealed that I had an avulsion fracture! A fragment of bone had been ripped away from the joint by the force of the finger bending back...gnarly!! Luckily I was back in action after 6 weeks rest with no ill effects apart from my fingertip being a bit fatter. So, the Make it Funky bolt hole mono move is no longer so feasible, oh well such is life! This is what prompted me to try the extension seriously.
So last summer I went up there again after speaking to Adam Bailes who was close to ticking the route. I was psyched to be able to do all the moves that session. I kept going back up there and managed to gradually link from the pocket before the traverse to the top, a breakthrough at the time. Then from the Mecca belay to the top. It was this link that opened my eyes to actually climbing the thing. Before the winter rains set in, I managed to link from the base of the Mecca groove to the top, another big buzz as it was the first time I had skipped the last clip, which you need to do in order to tick the route, it being too strenous to clip. Sometimes, you need to man up! I knew then that it was on next year.
Gaining the base of the final flake (Credit: Guy van Greuning)
Another big change was embracing the kneebar for the moves up the groove. In the past I had been a little resistant to change but a change of heart made me check it out for the first time only to be blown away by how good the moves were using the knees, although it did make the top section signficantly easier. What used to be moves at my absolute power endurance limit are now much more manageable from the ground with the hands off rest. Having said all that, I can only stay there for 20 seconds or so as the core strength rapidly drains in such a strenous position. At the end of the day, its personal choice on this one....
As the top was wet for much of March and April, I only managed to get back on the route after returning from the Jura in April. Progress was slow in the first couple of weeks and I only managed to repeat the horn to top link after several sessions. Gradually, the moves began to feel easier and I started trying the last link I would attempt before trying it from the ground, from the 3rd bolt to the top (i.e. the old 'pocket link' on Mecca). This felt a lot harder adding in the crux part of Mecca and it was only after a few more sessions that this eventually fell with me pumping out at the base of the flake quite a few times. Shaking out on the big flake above the Mecca belay, I began to feel some fitness building with each session, it was exciting seeing the progress. This brings me to how to train for this route? I think it is really a fitness route for people who can do Mecca. So you need to be quite fit and it was for this reason that over the winter at Stockport wall I trained routes on the plastic (10 tie-ins minimum per session!) as well as regular bouldering sessions. There are 47 moves til the finishing jug (25 for Mecca) so you need something more in reserve than sprinting up Mecca only to slump on the chains.
Evening sessions after work were the key, this way you can get plenty of contact time, which is essential if a project is at your limit. The next problem was getting up Mecca again! I started trying again from the ground after the top pocket on the traverse got frustatingly wet and stayed that way for 3 weeks or so. Progress was slow and I began to fear I was not as strong as 4 year's ago and that I may have blown my chance by not having bouldering enough. Luckily I was wrong and it was a week's rest off the route in flying out to Pisa for a uni mate's wedding that gave me some much needed time off. Doing Full Tilt at Kilnsey last Tues, which I had been trying for years, I knew I felt stronger and this gave me added confidence and psyche.
On Thursday evening I managed to get to the last 2 moves after getting my heel on the flake and getting the next right hand crimp above, so close!! I was mega boxed though and the final British 6a moves to the final jug, which I had never fallen off before, transformed into seemingly impossible barriers and I was off skydiving back into space! 2 days' rest was called for and on the sunday, trying to keep nerves at bay, I set off on my redpoint. This time I was less pumped the whole way on the top section and had something left for the finish. Clipping the chains was a massive buzz I have to say with it being my first 8c. I would recommend the siege of a route at your personal limit to anybody, just as long as you are making progress, however gradual.
(Credit: George Carmichael)
Source: Mecca Extension (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 18, 2018, 07:00:23 pm
After much effort over the summer putting time into redpoint attempts on Kabaah at Raven Tor (close but no cigar), I travelled out to Smith Rock for a 2.5 week trip in early October and have just got back. I thought I would share some of my experiences in case any brits out there were thinking of making the trip over. It is quite a unique spot out in the wilds of Oregon with an extensive history of both sport and trad climbing. The standout routes there have to be To Bolt or not to Be, the USA's first 5.14a done in 1986 by Jean Baptiste Tribout (only the second in the world after Punks in the Gym in 1985) and of course Just do it, the USA's first 5.14c done by that man again, Jean Baptiste. 'To Bolt' as the locals call it, has always inspired me as a line since I first started climbing as it looks so blank and featureless, the epitome of impossible! I had always fancied checking out To Bolt, although I never dreamt I would ever be able to climb at the required level, 5.14a, it sounds outrageous! I must say, having done Mecca in 2009, and climbed 8b+ I thought perhaps I might be ready to give it a shot.
I had been to Smith in August 2007 for a week and for a day in 2009, on a trip which proved to be too cold in December, resulting in me bailing to Bishop. 4 years went by and I realised that it was now or never if I was ever to try this rig. Flights were booked and I found myself setting off down the US26 from Portland, destination Bend. I was incredibly lucky to be hooked up with some of the very friendly and welcoming local climbers by my main man Brian MacAlinden from the Climbing Works so a big holla out to him!! Justin Brown was very kind indeed in putting me up for my whole trip and introducing me to the local scene. This proved invaluable in terms of gleaning beta for the route and for the purposes of spraying and generally hanging out.
So, on my first day, I thought I would do some on-sighting and warm into the style of climbing, no tufas here or kneebars in the Dihedrals! Magic Light 5.11d is a great warmup and then it was straight on to the main event, the magnificent 5.13a Darkness at Noon. What a climb! 35m of relentless edge pulling up a gently overhanging wall, very thin at the start, a chilled out midsection and some steeper cranks up near the belay. This was my first 7c+ onsight so I was chuffed. I managed to follow up with an onsight of Full Heinous Cling, a companion line to Darkness at 5.12c, although several notches easier (I had redpointed the lower halfpitch in 2007). To finish a good first day, I did Karate Wall, a majestic 5.12c, again 35m of endless edges on a gently overhanging wall and then a very stout 5.12a 'Take a Powder', my arms were tired after all that!
Full Heinous Cling 5.12c
After a brief look on the first day, on day three, I got down to business and got on To Bolt. There are over 100 moves and it is extremely complex to get it all figured out. It basically boils down to a 10 bolt, 20m 8b+ to a reasonable shake on a good foothold with poor handholds. You are then treated to a pumpy 7c or 5.12d to finish on 5 further, spaced bolts. This is a real test of your ability to hold it together as it is by no means easy and has several very awkward lockoffs, balancy highsteps, foot-changes and cranks for distant edges when pumped out of your brains. People have blown the last moves and indeed have fallen eyeballing the belay, truly heartbreaking for them. There are countless epic tales associated with this route. Sonnie Trotter got through the first 10 bolts only to fall off the last section. He tried to get back up there but could not after repeated efforts and I believe the experience proved so stressful that he quit the route for other projects. This from a climber who has redpointed 9a! (I was actually sat next to Sonnie in the Depot pub chomping on my burger one night, wad point!) Drew Ruana did the route very quickly earlier this year, but bridged out unwittingly into Sunshine Dihedral for a brief rest at the 9th bolt leaving many questioning was this ascent valid? Who knows, opinion is divided, all I know is that the video of him on it is an amazing piece of footage, the dude does not appear to ever get pumped! Paige Classen also crushed the route this year as did some French wads.
Eric on Karate Wall 5.12c Ryan on Latest Rage 5.12b
So, how did it go? I managed to figure out the extremely thin and crimpy moves up to bolt 9 where there is a good shake before a nails rockover using tiny opposing sidepulls guarding the approach to the resting foothold at the 10th bolt; I also linked some sections together in my first couple of days. I did the 'French Connection', which is Alan Watt's link of Sunshine Dihedral, a tricky 5.12a trad route to the right (we used pre-placed wires) into all of the climbing after the 9th bolt, adding up to a testing 5.13b, or 8a. I also managed to redpoint from the ground to the 6th bolt and then from the 7th bolt to the top. I tried to go from the 6th bolt to the top to bag the coveted 'one hang' ascent but unfortunately, I split a tip on my forefinger halfway through my trip which was a bit of a bummer to say the least. Still, best not to get downhearted, at least it wasn't a finger injury and these things easily happen, especially on a route of this nature. In fact, the locals said the temps were really warm for October, up in the 70's for many days. This only left a brief 2 hour window before darkness in which to try the route. Sometimes, it was too hot even then to bother trying. My skin therefore ground down gradually until I literally saw red! In cold conditions, this would not have been so much of a problem.
Peder on French Connection 5.13b (the last half of To Bolt or not to Be 5.14a)
I tried climbing with tape but it was almost impossible to grip the edges properly. I have therefore resolved to come back in the Spring for a rematch, this route is too good to quit on! The last week was devoted to some fun climbing at a lower grade, which was tape friendly. Still my tip was very painful as it refused to heal properly under the tape with all the edge pulling. Regardless, some stellar classics were bagged including Crossfire 5.12b, Last Waltz 5.12c, the stunning arete left of To Bolt, Go Dog Go, a great 5.12c on a spectacular tower with a dyno at the crux, Watts Tots 5.12b, the USA's first ever sport climb, Taco Chip 5.13a and the Quickening 5.12c, a steep pumper of a line in the Aggro Gully. I also had a protracted tussle with Mama Docus, a really tricky 5.13c in the Aggro Gully, which is much steeper than most routes hereabouts. This one got away unfortunately as I found the crux slap, high on the headwall, pretty hard to stick after all the steep climbing to get there.
Jess on Last Waltz 5.12c Mama Docus 5.13c
The crux, desparate!
The thuggy lower section (shared with Aggro Monkey)
Anyway, enough rambling, here are some more photos of the trip, I would thoroughly recommend a trip to anyone, it is really different to Spain and France, the climate is kind, it never rains and the locals are all super-friendly and speak the lingo, whats not to like?! A big shout out to Justin Brown and Andi Renden-Brown and the other locals I spent time with for making my trip so great and for Justin in sending his first 5.14a Badman (by none other than that man again, Jean Baptiste, he gets everywhere!) Oh and if you're out there, try and avoid imbibing too much of the local beer, which I found to my cost can be rather strong at 10%!
EDIT: Check out this excellent video Justin made of my attempts at Mama Docus, the crux is a true heartbreaker!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3CyER27zcM&list=FLv59lhTjauPzvkot791HhGA
Justin on Badman 5.14a
Last Waltz 5.12c
The Mama Docus (off the crux!)
Source: Smith Rock (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 19, 2018, 01:01:34 am
With the crappy weather that we are having, now seems to be a good time to take stock of unfinished business from last year and future projects for the coming limestone season. When you are pushing your limits redpointing, it seems inevitable that you will collect a number 'works in progress' as you go along, otherwise you wouldn't be trying hard enough, right? The question is, where do you draw the line given the available resources you have in the form of time, motivation, strength and dry rock? Some people seem able to have projects hanging over them for years and years. I remember Paul Reeve showing me the moves on Full Tilt 8b back in 2006 and looking very strong on it. It wasn't until a few years later that his well-deserved tick came= due to the propensity of the crag to resemble a waterfall most of the year.
Using this as inspiration I have tried to not be too bothered by unfinished routes, as long as the list doesn't get too long! I managed to knock a couple of long term projects off my list last year namely Full Tilt and another 8b at Malham, Idefix, so was chuffed with that. I think managing to get a few percent stronger and fitter made all the difference and also Full Tilt drying out sufficiently was obviously crucial (potential aspirants to this and the extension, True North, would readily agree with this!) So, it is possible to dig deep and get shot of those so called 'bogey routes' with sufficient application.
My unfinished list at the moment is about as long as I would want it to get so I had better pull my finger out in the spring! I haven't included routes where I have only been up them once or twice for the purposes of assessing the moves with a view to maybe seriously attempting them (Cry Freedom and True North would fall into this category). That is not to say these routes won't go into the 'ticked' or 'unfinished' categories at some point in the future!
Unfinished Routes
Kabaah 8c+ (Raven Tor)
To Bolt or not to Be 8b+
Mama Docus 8a+ (Smith Rock)
Migranya 8b (Suirana)
The Inch Test 8a+ (Rubicon, the Upper Circle)
Barracuda 8b (Rubicon)
Gonads 8a+ (Two Tier Buttress)
Freedom Fighter 8a+ (Chimes extension)
Unfinished Boulder problems
Drink Driving V12 (Pill Box)
Hatch Life High V11
Hatchatrocity V11 (Parisella's Cave)
The Joker V11 (Stanage)
Domes Sit Start V9 (Rowtor)
Tarantula V9 (Nuda's Tartan)
Right now, I'm training in the Cave on saturdays to keep up the power endurance and doing lots of routes at the wall, with one bouldering session per week and a separate pullup/fingerboarding session. Its hard to train to be fit and strong at the same time but hopefully it will pay off. The danger is that you feel overtrained all the time and not at full strength when trying projects at the weekend (eg. in the cave). This has certainly been the case the last few weekends in the Cave but I'm hoping that it will be worth it and adaptation to a higher training load will happen. The theory being that when you do eventually take 2 or 3 days rest, you'll be ripping heads off! I'm suffering a bit with some bad skin splits in my finger joints which don't seem to go away for weeks and which have made it difficult to climb to full potential outside at times. These should be got rid of soon with any luck. I also seemed to have quite a sore right bicep coming back from Suirana a month ago but this now seems to have settled down, fingers crossed. This is the first year I have purposely decided to go indoors on sundays to do routes instead of taking my chances at Minus Ten in the drizzle or some other damp hole. Perhaps less character building but maybe of more training benefit, who knows!
I leave you with a link from the Pill Box which I first did in 2009 but repeated the other day, no better venue for fingery power endurance in January.
Source: Unfinished Business and Training (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 19, 2018, 01:00:09 pm
Hi folks, well I've been back from Smith for nearly a month and the trip has just about sunk in. It was an amazing experience being out there again and much better temperatures for climbing than when I was last out there in October. I was a bit smarter with my fingertips climbing only every other day, given the unique problems for skin that To Bolt or Not Be, the USA's first 5.14a first climbed in 1986 by Jean Baptiste Tribout, poses. I think it was the first time ever I have taken a rest day on my second day of a climbing trip, unheard of! I had written all of the moves down since the last trip (and obsessed over them in every waking moment!) so remembering them would hopefully not be a problem. All my training was done, I don't think I had skipped a saturday in Parisella's Cave since New Year often in the grimmest of weather and the routes at Stockport Wall had taken a pounding in long training sessions with my climbing partner Ant.
So this 2 week trip was time to execute something which I already knew very well; it came down to a brutal 100 move fitness equation. I was a bit worried that my only recent time on real rock had been doing multiple attempts on Hatch Life High in the Cave and most of my climbing had been done on plastic. However, luckily the feeling of some of my friends saying 'you get nowhere training on routes indoors' proved to be illfounded. A pump is a pump, no matter where you're training!
Crag scene - Greg, Tara and Andrew
Anyway, a bit of background about the route and my involvement with it. When I was a kid, one of my first books about rock climbing by John Long called 'How to Rock Climb' had a picture of Ron Kauk (who got the 2nd American ascent in 1988 after Scott Franklin's first) crimping up this incredible vertical wall of volcanic tuff on what appeared to be nothing holds. I was amazed how he could cling onto that face and how long and sustained it looked. I was only climbing VS at the time so the thought of actually climbing this route never crossed my mind. Nevertheless, the seed was planted and as I started sportclimbing and got through some of the grades, I started to wonder if I might someday have a go myself. Visiting Smith in 2007 for the first time, I got to see the climb and was suitably impressed, it looked just as blank as it did in my book. Seeing awesome pictures of Jerry Moffat on the 3rd ascent in 1988 and hearing tales of Steve McClure's near onsight in 2000 only stoked my desire to get involved. Doing Mecca at Raven Tor, a route with the same grade of 5.14a/ 8b+ in 2009 gave me the confidence to believe I could perhaps do it and actually was the reason I flew out there at short notice that year in December, only to find it was far too cold to attempt! (A productive trip to Bishop ensued instead).
Some different views of the Beast!
I guess the route had always been in the back of my mind so I could come 'full circle' and be like Ron Kauk in that picture in my old climbing book. Funny where inspiration comes from, but best not to fight it, go with the flow! Its a fair point that Smith is 1000's of miles away from the UK and there are many other worthy routes in the UK and Spain/ France of a similar grade but really it is only a 10 hour flight and with routes this classic, I didn't really care about the logistics so much, just getting to try the thing was the main deal for me. My preferred climbing style is faces so where better place to indulge this than Smith!
Since last October, I have been lucky enough to have met some amazing people in Bend without whom I could never have dreamt of fulfilling my goal being a Brit travelling out here without a climbing partner - Andi and Justin, Andrew Hunzicker (who will get his To Bolt send real soon I'm sure), Nathan, Sierra, Peder and Jess, Ian and Kristin, Ryan, Ian and many of the other locals too numerous to mention but you know who you are! Your support is greatly appreciated! When I come back next year, I hope to enlist some fellow Brits, if I can tempt any away from UK lime...
So, how did the route go? On my first day, I knew this would be a strong indicator of how the my chances were. The first time up, all the moves felt desparate! but thankfully I was not properly warmed up and on the next go, I toproped up to the 4th clip without getting pumped and I knew in my mind that it was on. The route itself is characterised by very sustained climbing on moves which are never easy but typically in the V3 - V6 range individually. Here are pics of some of the lower moves. They say the route contains in one route the crux moves of all of the other routes in the Dihderals, which seems fair. A 5.13 crux every other bolt for 14 bolts would be another way of describing it. Having the necessary fitness level is key to success as without it you have no chance of linking it all together so in a way the battle is won or lost before you even arrive, a motivating thought if ever there was one!
First hard moves by the 3rd
Gaston at the 7th
On my second day of attempts, I managed to get through to above the 8th bolt and nearly to the first good shakeout at the 9th bolt which was a massive breakthrough as I had not got past the 6th bolt from the ground on my last trip. I knew I was feeling fitter than last time. On the 3rd day, I got to the 9th bolt shake for the first time and shook out well. I attacked the redpoint crux on two opposing razorblade sidepulls (see pic below), which is definitely the hardest move on the route, albeit straight after a reasonable shake.
The crux after the 9th bolt
Scott Franklin had said that anybody who makes it to the 10th shouldn't fall there as you can shake anywhere, all I can say is that it depends how fit you are! I couldn't believe it when I dropped it at the 12th bolt at the final tricky rockover move before easier 5.11 climbing through the final 2 bolts. I was just so flamed but discovered that I was outstaying my welcome at the shakes and getting even more pumped in the process. On my 5th day this trip, halving my rest times to just over a minute at the 9th and 10th shakes made a huge difference (I am not one of those climbers who spend 20 minutes camping out at the 10th bolt!), as did refining some microbeta on that final rockover at the 12th. The send came on a much colder, crisper day and even though I had only had 1 day off after the previous massive day getting high on 2 separate occasions, I had now reached the level needed to do the route and it thankfully all clicked into place. Even the final moves were spooky and hard and there are climbers who have fallen even higher than me so beware of relaxing until its all over. Clipping the chain was an amazing feeling and a big relief as I only had 3 days left of the trip and the time pressure to send had been starting to mount. It was awesome too that earlier that day, Andi sent her long term project, Disposable Heroes 5.13b, in Aggro Gully as a surprise send, way to go. Time for a beer and burger in Redmond!
I will leave you with the video of the route I made, I hope it helps any aspirant To Bolters out there! Thanks for all the encouragement from everybody. Good luck and onto the next chapter!
Source: To Bolt or not to Be (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 19, 2018, 07:00:21 pm
For the past 3 months since coming back from Smith Rock, a large number of my climbing days at the weekends have been spent up at Malham getting stuck into 2 routes in particular, Bat Route and Unjustified. Having ticked Bat Route in May and Unjustfied on Sunday, I thought I would share my experiences of both for those who are interested.
After finally ticking Idefix 8b last summer (the extension to Free and Even Easier and one of the catwalk's more desparate lines), I was finally free to try one of the famous routes breaching the bulges over the catwalk. It seems like some of the mystique surrounding these routes may have been dispelled in the last 5 years with the increase in the number of ascents made. I remember 2 or 3 years ago, an ascent of either Bat Route or Unjustified was front page news but now this is no longer the case. I am sure this is due to overall standards rising in the climbing community which is a great thing. With each successive ascent, more climbers become inspired to try them, which in turn leads to even more ticks. Just getting on and trying these things can be half the battle at times; if you don't have a go you'll never know!
So, off the back of my States trip I was keen to use the fitness that I had gained from trying To Bolt or not to Be and to see how Bat Route and Unjustified compared. They are of a similar length and style, and although not as sustained, they are a bit steeper with distinct cruxes. I was in two minds as to whether to try Cry Freedom as I had had 2 days on that in 2011 but heading out with Keefe Murphy who was trying Bat Route and with Cry Freedom being wet, I was persuaded to try the former. Cry Freedom is still a goal of mine, maybe when the midgies have finished taking chunks out of us...!
Bat Route is a magnificent 35m route with a unique combination of power moves, good rests and contrasting climbing styles involving wall climbing, steep roofs and powerful undercutting through bulges. The grade maths is a 7b (Seventh Aardvark) to probably a V8 or so to a big hole where you can get a hands off kneebar rest and then a sustained 8a+ to the top with 2 more good rests. The top crux on the final, gently overhanging wall is hard on some tiny crimps but I managed to find a really good way past this bit involving a wide bridge, which took the sting out of it.
Egyptian to get the 3rd undercut Eyeing up the 4th undercut
Taking the 4th undercut
Leaving the second hole
Tricky moves leading to the 3rd rest
Had the upper part of the route not been totally wet that day, I reckon I would have been in with a good shout of doing it as I had by that stage got the top part pretty wired and would do it cleanly at the end of every session. However, this is UK sport climbing we're talking about (!) and I had to wait a week for the route to dry for my chance to seal the deal. It went down on a much drier saturday the following weekend. A pint in the Buck inn followed (remember those, alcoholic drinks!?) which went down particularly nicely if I recall.
The upper crux on crimps
The last shakeout, don't blow it here!
The final 5b moves, beer time!
Hungry for the next route, I got on Unjustified within an hour of clipping the chains of Bat Route, why hang about! Now this route is a very different animal to the latter one, being more of a true stamina route rather than series of desparate boulder problems between jug rests masquerading as a fitness route. On Unjustified, although the moves through the bulge are easier (V6 max) you have to keep climbing to survive with virtually no rest anywhere on the headwall. Perpetual motion is your only hope! In fact there is barely anywhere to stop and clip other than at 2 decent holds out right halfway up. Something Stupid seems significantly harder than Seventh Aardvark to me for 7b and the fact that there is no shakeout on it at the chains makes it particularly pumpy leading into the crux moves over the bulge. It took several sessions before I felt like I had much to give on the crux after trying the whole route from the ground.
Linking through the crux to the top is about 8a but unfortunately, the bolt after the crux needs repositioning as you have a nightmarish long draw to reach up and clip which, because of the steep angle of the rock, hangs out over a foot into space, so it is almost behind your head when you try and clip it. If the bolt was repositioned lower at chest height then the clip would be easier, although still hard I bet, and the whole route would be a much safer and and more approachable proposition. However, bolting costs time which most time starved rock activists don't have much of (lame sounding I know) so this less than ideal setup will remain until somebody does something about it.
Anway, after speaking to the catwalk regulars about this nightmare clip, it appeared that they fell into 2 camps, those electing to clip it or skip it. Twice on the first session I made it through the crux to this clip only to barely get my rope in the draw and then slump onto it pumped stupid in a jibbering heap. When I thought about it, as you are pulling through armfulls of slack in a ridulously strenuous position, why not just climb past it then reach down and left to clip it from the rest out right? Only a the prospect of a 25 footer to focus the mind! I road tested the fall twice on my next visit to the crag and the results are in the following clip:
UNJUSTIFIED - 25 FOOT FALL FROM AFTER THE CRUX
https://vimeo.com/99562067
Its actually a pretty soft (although massive!) fall and you end up around the 3rd bolt of Something Stupid although when I got a move higher the next go, I fell a bit more awkwardly and ended up grazing my hip against the rock a bit, take care out there kids! As is usual with these things, the buildup in the mind is worse than actually taking the ride.
After considering that I may have been held back mentally from commiting to the redpoint crux leading to the rest being so runout, I decided to just go for it. After a 2 week break while the route was wet and a period spent on other projects at the Tor, I came back and it felt a different ballgame. Such a great feeling to come back to the scene of a previous failure and then cruise past it fully in control - this is what redpointing is all about, the moments we train for. Here is the footage of my successful attempt - (I elected to to do 'Overjustified' and finish up the 7a+ extension 'Dudley Do Good', which is really no harder than Unjustified but a fun workout nonetheless).
THE SEND OF OVERJUSTIFIED!
https://vimeo.com/99479012
Footnote on grades - I guess no blog about Bat Route or Unjustified would be complete without an assessment of the grades of both. From having climbed both within 6 weeks of each other, I would say that Bat Route is a fair bit harder for me as a stamina climber as I found the roof section so hard. However, power climbers I know seem to really struggle on the top wall on the link, which I could get through every time. To me, this route was easier overall than Mecca Extension but just about 8c for the difficulty of the crux moves. Ondra seems to question on his 8a.nu scorecard whether an upgrade from 8b+ was really warranted since the first ascent. Although a good hold has come off where the tooth now is and the midsection is now climbed more direct due to the loss of an undercut out right, is this enough to bump it up by a full letter grade?...maybe.
Regarding the grade of Unjustified, I reckon this must be 8b+ as although it is undoubtedly sustained, the moves are not hard enough in my opinion for the route to be graded the magic grade of 8c. Also, is it as hard as To Bolt or Not to Be, a confirmed (although tough) 5.14a (8b+) of a comparable (pure fitness) style? - the answer is no, it is fair bit easier I reckon.
So there we have it, the number crunching is done, don't let this put you off the sheer quality of both routes, Bat Route in particular is world class. All aspirant ascentionists, get to it!!
Source: Bat Route and Overjustified (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2018, 01:01:35 am
Six weeks have gone by since I completed my long term project Kaabah at Raven Tor and the whole thing has now sunk in. I have since been ticking some easier routes for a bit of variety and have also been on an awesome 2 week trip to the Alps around Chamonix. This required doing a few days of trad at Gogarth, Millstone and Stoney to get back into placing wires and cams, which was thoroughly enjoyable after so much time spent at the Tor.
I started trying Kaabah on the same day I clipped the chains of the Extension back in June last year. It felt like the logical next step to make use of the fitness gained in trying a similar route but even harder! While the Extension stacks an 8a on top of an 8b+ with two very good rests, Kaabah has significantly harder climbing (8a+) leaving Mecca just before its belay and then rejoining the Extension from below in the middle of its final traverse right, with only a poorer, single resting spot in a 'niche' high up on the wall. I knew this was going to push me to the limit when I began trying it but resolved that as long as I continued to see progress I would stick with it as it would be amazing to do such a cool 'directissima' on Mecca, taking the route to its ultimate conclusion.
The Mecca Crux (Video Still)
Early Days
I initially spent some time working out different methods for the very thin moves leaving the rest and studied the few videos of the route. I couldn't touch Steve's ultracrimpy method, its nails! Alex and Ryan's way going straight for the base of the Extension flake with the right hand was too reachy so I managed to work out a way pressing out left at the limit of my reach off a nasty thumb sprag to the 'car body filler' undercut of the Extension (don't ask!) I even managed to link to the base of the Extension Flake from the base of the Mecca groove using this early method before realising that by instead pulling on one of the tiny footholds of the Extension slightly higher up with my right hand the move was made a bit easier, although its still a very fickle customer in the wrong conditions. With my new sequence, although you are able to join the Extension a move earlier than either of Steve's or Alex's method's, you still have work to do as you are pretty stretched out and need to semi-dynamically flick you right hand into the tiny black sidepull used on the Extension once you have gained the left hand undercut (which is an extremely precarious move and requires you to drill you right toe into a tiny dink by your feet which is barely visible as you are pasted to the wall and can't easily spy your footholds). After repeated work, I was able to reliably climb from the niche to the Extension belay as part of my warm up on the route. This was the first time I had worked out a new method on a climb for myself so I was quite satisfied with the whole process.
Now just the link in of Mecca to go, easier said than done! In July last year I started the process of linking in sections of Mecca from successively lower stages (i.e. first level with the belay then the base of the groove by the 5th bolt then from the 3rd bolt by the big pocket). This adds a lot of pump to the upper 8a+ as I soon found. Before I was able to complete the key link from the 3rd bolt to the top, I got sucked into trying it from the ground, perhaps too early as this year it seemed that just knowing that you have completed this major link makes a big difference mentally. Progress came incrementally and last summer it turned into a war of attrition. Every saturday morning I would be there for another attempt and eventually got to the stage where I managed to join the Extension from the ground, although in a stage of terminal pump. I tried everything from gaffa taping the final clip into the rock to even using a fluorescent orange sticky tab to mark the hard-to-spot foothold.
On this route you only get very small windows for success as firstly you have to get yourself up Mecca every time. Then you need to be firing on all cylinders for the top wall so just scraping up Mecca is not enough, you need to own every hold and get to the rest with something left in the tank. On too many attempts I arrived at the shakeout with very little or nothing left to give to the top moves. They felt completely desparate from the ground and I found it was pretty much irrelevant how good they felt on the warmup. I got to the stage in August where I was fighting for extra individual moves on each successive visit, pushing my highpoint gradually upwards and routinely trying the hardest I have ever fought on a rock climb. Still, I was making some limited progress, enough to entice me to keep coming back for more.
The Falls
The moves on the top wall are so sustained that I found no place where you could stop and clip a bolt between the one you clip at the resting niche and the next one, which is a fair way above. There is the old 'bean can' aid bolt inbetween which offers a possibility for clipping an intermediate bolt in the middle of the upper crux. This can be backed up with a long sling but I found that this drained power at a crucial stage so rather than diminishing my chances, I decided to press on and embrace taking the ride! If you fall off on the moves getting both hands on the Extension flake you will take up to a 25 footer (hard grit comes to the lime!) Don't let this put you off though as it is actually an alright fall if you take care to stay balanced, don't tense up and get a nice soft catch - I must have taken this fall over 30 times so I guess I have road tested it!
In order to clip the next bolt after the niche, you must get both hands on the Extension flake and then, (as per the front cover of Alastair Lee's DVD 'Psyche') take you right hand off to quickly drop the rope into the draw. I found that as the bolt was so close in this position, it was easier to use a single crab. This feels the living end from the ground as all your muscles are screaming for you to let go and end the agony! It feels the easiest thing in the world just to grab the draw and give up!
https://www.youtube.com/embed/FeLTvVWQJKs
The Big Fall! Attempt 24 June 2014
Failure
After 14 times reaching the resting niche or higher from the ground in August and September, on my best attempt I got to the move shared with the Extension where you have to put your right heel really high up on the flake while compressing between opposing sidepulls in order to reach up for higher crimps and easier moves leading to the final jugs. I probably only had 1% power left to give and remember squeezing like crazy between the flake with my right hand and the tiny high sidepull for my left hand. I briefly thought this was it, the time I was going to do it (a mistake in retrospect). Then dismayingly my heel refused to go any higher up to the flake as my arms gave out and I was off plummeting back into the void. Close but no cigar!
This last attempt proved to be my best go of the year and due to evening sessions on the route running out in late August, I was never able to regain this highpoint despite quite a few more attempts. I had a trip to Smith Rock planned in the last 2 weeks of October so resolved to get it bagged on my return but unfortunately the crag started seeping, which stopped everybody's campaigns on their projects for the year.
2014 - A Fresh Approach
A return trip to Smith Rocks in March proved the key to getting the monkey off my back. I felt a different climber this year, fitter from multiple laps on many 7b's and 7b+'s at Stockport but probably less strong from doing less bouldering. Ticking To Bolt or Not to Be at Smith was a great confidence booster and although it is a different beast to Kaabah being less steep but with twice as many moves, it provided a great foundation to work from. I had to bide my time up in Yorkshire in April and early May while the route dried out. Eventually the niche dried out enough to allow redpoint attempts. Crucially I managed to do the 3rd bolt to top link in late June, which I then managed on three other occasions. All I needed to do now was get up Mecca again.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/owwAUlq0EHg
Link from the 3rd bolt to the Top - 1 July 2014
I was also trying to gain more fitness on Kristian's excellent 7c 'Resistance', which is the finish to either Mark Tomlinson's 'Resistance is Futile' 8a+ or a new linkup I did 'Chimes of Resistance' 8b and is conveniently placed just above and to the right of the Extension loweroff. I found that this provided a crucial extra few percent of stamina. Frustratingly in late June/early July, I had 3 or 4 sessions where I couldn't get up the big M. However, I knew I could do it, it was a just a matter of time before I could stick the crux of Mecca gaining the horn - get working your left hand deadhangs for this move!
The Send
The day I did it I had actually had two previous unsuccessful attempts at getting through Mecca. I tried from the ground for a third time more as a matter of routine than anything else but was very relieved when I finally held the horn and then gained the kneebar in the groove. I knew I had a good chance even though the day was getting on and the air temperature was warming up. Arriving in the niche, I remembered not to outstay my welcome and pressed on up the sidepulls and gastons. The moves leading to the Extension flake and making the next clip felt good and in control although I could tell I had only a small margin for error. This time on the compression move was payback time and I was able to get my right heel up just fine, no terminal pump this time round. The last few moves passed in a blur and before I knew it I was hanging off the final jugs shouting for joy. The finish up Resistance felt hard but a fitting finish to create a new linkup 'Kaabah is Futile', no change in grade, just more pump!
It was great to finish this project and finally be free from something that badly needed finishing off. So, onto the next project, good luck with all your sends out there, there is an end to all redpoint sagas...eventually!
Source: Kaabah (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2018, 01:00:09 pm
In August I took a two week trip to Chamonix to attempt a long term ambition of trying the Grand Capucin, an immaculate spire of golden granite near Mont Blanc rising above the Glacier du Geant to a height of 3,838m. Ever since I went to Chamonix on trips as a student in 1997, 98 and 99, I had a dream of climbing the Grand Capucin. A trip out in the summer of 2010 with friends from Jersey was blighted by poor weather and another chance slipped by. So maybe fifth time lucky! This trip, the dream team comprised of my good friends John, Ryan and Duncan.
After a few sessions at Stoney, Millstone and Gogarth dusting down the wires following a lengthy absence from traditional climbing, we began to get a bit of the trad flow back and it was time to practise these skills on the larger canvas that the mountain routes on the granite peaks around Chamonix offer. For me, while I had been doing a lot of sport climbing lately, I have been on a fair few alpine trips in the past, including a successful trip to the Dolomites in the summer of 2009 when Ben Heason and I managed to free climb Attraverso il Pesce or 'The Fish', a classic 14 pitch E6 on the south Face of the Marmolada. Big peaks like the Grand Capucin don't climb themselves and I realised that if I was ever to achieve my goal, it had better be right now!
Pre-alpine training - London Wall E5 6b at Millstone
The Cruise E5 E5 Gogarth Upper Tier
After a solid 18 hour journey from Nottingham (nice one for driving us all there non-stop John!), we set up base camp in the Ile des Barrats campsite just outside Cham. The next morning we caught the first 'phrique up to the Midi Plan intent on bagging the Aigulle du Peigne via its famous slabby north face. Unfortunately the first day up in the hills brought it home how wet the summer had been. The slabs were completely soaked and we had to abandon this plan in favour of the Red Pillar of the Aiguille de Blatiere. John and I bagged 'Deux Goals' 7a, a cracking, short 5 pitch line that involved plenty of jamming in wet, strenuous cracks! 
Deux Goals 7a, (pitch 1), Aiguille de Blatiere
Next up was an expedition up to the Envers Hut above the Mer de Glace. This was the only time we stayed in an alpine hut and it was a true pleasure to spend 3 nights in such a remote shelter perched precariously on a little rock shoulder under the towering granite needles of the Aiguille de Roc and the Pointes des Nantillons. I suffered mightily on the 3.5 hour walk in up endless iron ladders with my sport climbers pigeon legs! Routes bagged here by John and I were 'L'Age de Homme', an 11 pitch 6c ending on the 1st Pointe des Nantillons which was a warmup to the distinctly stiffer 'Pyramide' 7a, a more well known Michel Piola classic on an asthetic buttress right of the seminal route 'Children of the Moon', which Ryan and Duncan did on the same day.
Pyramide offered a short, sharp crux section followed by some 'meat and potatoes' jamming work in some straight in hand jamming cracks following by a delicate, exposed step out left onto an arete on the second hardest pitch, which John fired off despite the wet conditions. At the base of the second tower, a burly hand and fist crack graded a stern 6b+ led to easier ground and the summit.
Classic pose at Montenvers
The Mer de Glace
View towards the Deant du Geant and the Seracs du Geant from L'Age de Homme 6c, 1st Pointe des Nantillons
Pyramide 7a (pitch 4), Aiguille de Roc
Pyramide 7a (pitch 5)
Poco Locos in Chamonix, a calorific feed!
Back in the valley, some rest and recuperation followed after 3 hard days in the hills and a raid to the excellent valley crag, Gietroz, which is just inside the Swiss border during which I managed to bag the classic 'Reve de Singe' 8a before a massive thunderstorm. One of the local guides actually said it had been the worst July for 30 years. Next came a run up 'La Fin de Babylone' on the South Face of Le Brevent in the Aiguilles Rouges (opposite from the Mont Blanc massif), an 8 pitch 6c on a dodgy weather day. This provided some good mileage purely on bolts while we were waiting for a 3 day good weather window towards the end of the second week. I even jogged down from the summit of Le Brevent to save the 8 Euro cable car ride down, must have been getting fitter!
'La Fin de Babylone' 6c (pitch 5), South Face of Le Brevent
We were so pleased to have a chance at getting a go at the Grand Capucin as the weather seemed set fair but were initially apprehensive as it looked very wintry up there and by all accounts there had been fresh snow down to 3,300m and the climbing is well above this altitude! We ummed and aahed and had many debates over leisurely beers and coffees in the campsite over whether to go for it or leave it for another year. Finally we were galvanised into action after meeting a German team who had just done the Swiss route the previous day and said it was OK to climb although a bit snowy on ledges high up and pretty wet in many of the cracks. Sounded worth a punt!
We were all pretty apprehensive heading down the snow arete to the glacier below the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi but excited at the same time, this was finally it, after months of waiting, planning, buying new kit and psyching up for the route, our chance was finally here. We trecked for a couple of hours down the Glacier du Geant roped up as a four and set up camp on the glacier a few hundred metres below the Capucin, which briefly loomed out of the mist before darkness fell. We could all feel the effects of the alitude as we were a fair bit higher up than our previous forays. It was bloody freezing in the night and despite buying a brand new top of the range sleeping bag before the trip, it was difficult to sleep in temperatures that must have dropped below minus ten.
Home for 2 nights! Base camp on the Glacier du Geant below the Grand Capucin
Early start for the Capucin (v cold!)
We set off as soon as it was possible to warm our fingers and were at the base of the route, having cramponed up the approach gully at 7:30am, while all the loose rock that tends to funnel down this later in the day was well frozen in. Temperatures rapidly rose until we were climbing in T-shirts. John and I had initially planned on doing the Swiss Route but as this was quite busy, we decided to branch off left onto O Sole Mio, a slightly harder line which involved some pretty burly jamming. It was a joy to plug in cams and solid nuts and move quickly over some very high quality, golden granite. The crux 8th pitch was an awkward, bolt protected wall and maybe it was the alititude but it felt a good 7a to me!
O Sole Mio 6c (pitch 5), South Face of the Grand Capucin
O Sole Mio 6c (crux pitch 8)
Summit of the Grand Capucin 3,838m, the highest I've ever been!
View towards the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey from the summit of the Grand Capucin
A long way (500m) straight down from the summit to base camp!
Endless, cold abseils. Le Trident (3639m) in the background
The next day we were all quite tired so despite the excellent weather, we took it easy and walked back up the glacier to set up camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. We had one more day of alpine climbing left and managed to put this to good use in bagging the classic 'Contamine Route' 7a on the right side of the south face. I had actually seconded this 15 years previously on a trip here with Andy Pedley and still remembered most of it. Duncan did a barnstorming lead on the crux pitch, probably E4 at sea level - anybody's guess up at 3,700m! We just made the last 'phrique down after busting a gut powering up the arete with monster rucksacks packed full of wet ropes, tents, stoves and gear, probably 70lbs plus each! I think our record time was 39 mins from the glacier up to the ticket station! We were definitely all feeling fitter.
New base camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi
Contamine Route, 7a (2nd pitch)
Mont Blanc du Tacul (plenty of tents pitched)
Dunc's big lead! Contamine Route 7a (crux 6th pitch)
So to sum up, we had an awesome time out in Cham - it was great to get away from familiar haunts back in the UK and do something different for a change. It has definitely inpired me at least for a return visit in the next few years. The Bonatti Pillar on the Capucin awaits, now that is a king line!
Source: Alpine Interlude (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2018, 07:00:11 pm
It has been a vintage season for Malham Cove this year. I have enjoyed experiencing the different seasons at the crag from the cool temps of spring, the heat of summer (which can be avoided by climbing superlate at the crag), the send temps of autumn to where we are at the moment in the cold conditions of early winter.
I have been going to Malham ever since I was at university in Manchester and still have my Rockfax 1990 guide which has been a source of continuing psyche. Seeing Cry Freedom in the guide next to the other classics, I always wondered whether I would ever be able to climb this historic line. I actually tried it in 2011 with James Riley for a couple of sessions but was way off the level back then. This year I was excited to use some of the fitness gained from trips away and plenty of time spent at the Tor to try some of the legendary staminafests the crag has to offer.
After coming back from the Alps in August, it took a couple of weeks to get my sport fitness back but it returned pretty quickly. I was pleased to do Totally Free 2, which was totally awesome (linking The Groove 8a+ into Free and Easy 7c then into the final roof of Breach of the Peace). This must be one of the best challenges at the grade in the UK even though there are quite a few good rests at key stages. Having frustratingly fallen off the last few moves in the wet before going to the Alps heaving up over the final barrel once stood up over the roof, the key to doing this was taking the trouble to first tick 'An Uneasy Peace 7c+' which starts up Free and Easy to its last bolt. Instead of going up and left to the belay of Free and Easy, Uneasy goes straight up via a runout section to finish up Breach. I reckon the roof of Breach must be 7c in its own right as it is burly and a tough finish to Totally Free 2 after 25 bolts of climbing, despite the hands off rest below Breach. Definitely save yourself the trouble of climbing all this way without having the top ruthlessly wired...and try not to attempt it in the rain either like me! I couldn't believe it when the heavens opened on my successful redpoint. Luckily I managed to bear down enough on the final wet crimps to avoid getting spat off into the void below. Here are some pics.
The lower crux of the The Groove
Bridging rest on The Groove
Starting the hard section of the second half of The Groove
Keep on trucking! Just past the crux on Free and Easy 7c
After this, I had a couple of sunday sessions on Cry Freedom second day on and sorted out all the moves but it was only when I started trying it fresh that I managed to make some breakthroughs. Linking from the undercut rest at the end of the initial 6 bolt 7c to the top was a massive buzz as it includes the first crux bulge which has some baffling V7 moves. The upper crux on its own must be about V6, depending on your reach. I know that climbers of shorter stature really struggle on this last section but I was lucky enough to be able to just reach the crux crimp with my right hand from the big undercut at the end of the final 'corner'. Getting fully crimped on this hold and having a little bend left in your arm while your right foot remains on a small spike foothold at the back of the bulge is crucial. You then place a tenuous heel/ toe cam in a big hole out left and take a grim little slot/ sidepull for your left hand. Releasing the heel/ toe is the real crux whilst remaining pasted to the wall as the next moves are a little easier and you are soon stood up over the bulge on small crimps eyeing up the belay.
Here is a video of the send. I would encourage anybody to try this route who may be having second thoughts given the many stories of last move failure out there. This is a stonking route with a real sense of history. I even managed to get a decent kneebar rest below the last crux which with a 5.10 pad is not far hands off if you can tense up your core enough. Unlike Bat Route or Unjustified, the crux is right where it should be, at the top!
Cry Freedom 8c - FA Mark Leach 1988
A short word on the grade of Cry Freedom compared to Unjustied and Bat Route. I reckon it is harder than either of these two routes overall although of a different character. On Bat Route, while the moves individually are often desperate, particularly the roof section, the hard bits tend to be broken up by really good resting jugs and a bomber kneebar. Unjustified by contract is the opposite having virtually no rest but with moves which are perhaps not quite as hard with the exception of the crux bulge. I have gone with Mark Leach's original grade of 8c for Cry Freedom as this is apparently the grade he gave it initially after his 46 day siege, which has become part of climbing folklore. I hear it was only after the first few repeats that it got downgraded. Jibe Tribout apparently thought it was easier than Mecca but was going well at the time!
After Cry Freedom, I got my guide out and sussed out the remaining doable ticks I had left on the lower catwalk. Twisted and the Well Dunne Finish were obvious gaps and I was stoked to be able to tick both after a spot of spring cleaning of some very dusty holds. I would definitely recommend both of these routes. I would not say Twisted was much easier than Well Dunne but see what you think. Hopefully these two videos are useful for beta.
Twisted 8a - FA Mick Lovatt 1988
Well Dunne Finish 8b - FA John Dunne 1988
So the crucial question, which of GBH or Zoolook is it best to start up when trying Well Dunne? Zoolook of course! To me, its a fair bit easier than GBH with a bomber rest at the fifth bolt that GBH doesn't have. So, get it while you still can, the crag is still dry I hear, see you out there!
Source: The Year of Malham (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2018, 01:00:53 am
I hope you have all been getting out and enjoying the mostly still dry crags. To update you, I am excited to be working with Scarpa from now on. I have been wearing Instinct VS's recently and have been very impressed with the edging power, stiffness and downturned toe which has been awesome on some of the small footgrips at the Tor. In particular, on Mecca you need to be able to stand on some pretty poor, polished edges on the crux section gaining the base of the groove and I have noticed the moves feeling easier due to more weight going through my feet, which is a great thing!
The Tor season is still hanging in there, I have to keep pinching myself thinking the crag is bone dry and it is 23 November! It is a bit of an effort to stay warm enough and avoid the dreaded hotaches or 'numbing out' as it is called across the pond. Sprinting up and down the road 5 minutes before climbing seems to work but then all the blood can go to your legs and away from your hands. Handwarmers work for some. Maybe the Spanish trick of a heated rock in the chalkbag might be an idea...or better actually move to Spain!
Right now I'm trying Haaj, the left hand extension to Mecca which is a cool piece of climbing with some V8 or even V9 moves on the crux on rat crimps and two gnarly undercuts. Fortunately there is a half decent rest after leaving Mecca Extension. I'm also trying a long link of Mecca into the Whore of Babylon, which is easier but will still be a stout 8b+. It adds a 9 bolt 8a on top of Mecca and is very pumpy!
For inspiration, here is a shot of warmer climes from March this year and one of the most classic 12d's or 7c's at Smith Rock, USA taken by my friend Tom Wright. Can anybody guess which route?
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Stay tuned folks and happy climbing!
Source: Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2018, 01:00:28 pm
Now seems a good time to pause and reflect on the last 2.5 months of effort put in at the mighty bastion of peak crimping, the Tor. As September gave way to October, I went back into project mode on Hajj, the left hand extension to Mecca, which I had put on the back burner as a project while I put in the hard yards on Cry Freedom. Now the latter route was ticked, I could focus all my efforts on this beast and I was keen to get stuck in. Having found a good sequence using an improbably small left foot hold earlier in September that allowed a massive reach for the left hand to be made off a good, flat hold for the right, I knew it was on and I had made the crucial link from the Mecca belay to the top. While evening sessions were no longer possible with it getting dark at 7, 6:30, and then by the time November rolled around, 4:30, I was still going out to the crag after work for bouldering sessions, trying to keep the edge with laps on Bens Roof, attempts at Powerband (I have a goal at some point to link this into Pump up the Power - the training linkup 'Pump up the Powerband, which is a meaty 8c) and other boulder problems such as Kristians direct start to Wild in Me 7b, Powerhumps 7b+, Out of My Tree 7b and various linkups/ circuits on Weedkiller and Basher's problem. A keen band of lantern session boulderers kept psyche levels high, after all, what could be better training that busting out moves on real rock?
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| The Crux move of Hajj (Photo: Jon Clark) |
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| Just past the crux on Mecca (Photo: Jon Clark) |
Mecca linkups and projects
It was at this point that I started trying to bag the Whore of Babylon link. This is the red line on the above topo I have drawn of Mecca links and projects. This is a cool linkup that Steve McClure had first done but which I think finished up Crucifixion. The moves from where it leaves Hajj (after the first independent move) are not too hard and the whole 2 bolt sequence before it joins Proud Whore is probably 7b+. The moves are not trivial but way easier than those on Hajj. The finish up Proud Whore, although probably 7b+ again, was steeper and more physical and on my link attempts from the base of the groove on Mecca, proved to be very pumpy indeed!
As late November arrived, me and the ever dwindling band of regulars started to get hit with unreliable conditions as, even though the crag was still essentially bone dry, as soon as the temperature rose above about 6 degrees, the dreaded condensation came on. On Saturdays in a row, this happened, which resulted in frustrating enforced rest in the hope of better conditions the following day. Basically, opportunities for successful redpoints were dwindling fast. Even when the crag was dry, as December rolled around, it unsurprisingly became bitterly cold as the sun now didn't rise above the hill opposite the crag and Mecca got zero sun. One day when I failed to get up Mecca via my usual method in the dusk due to a late arrival at the crag, I decided to experiment with the different ways of gaining the base of the groove, managing to climb it via the classic right hand to the horn method and then, the following week by the Egyptian way method. What I was after was an easier, more reliable method and I hope that I have now found it with the Egyptian way. After all, if Steve and most other people do it this way, there must be a good reason!
As the end of the season approached, I wanted something to show for my efforts and on last session before the Works party, the Whore of Babylon link went down. Unfortunately (or fortunately!) I discovered a really good rest in the Creamteam break before the finish up Proud Whore which took the edge off it, although at the end of the day, this section still has to be climbed and is no pushover. The direct version will be even pumpier. So, with the Tor season ended for 2014, I have been getting stuck back into some plastic training and some much needed new moves. I'm psyched for what the New Year may bring and will be back for Hajj, and other projects, in the Spring! For now its off to Chulila for 15 days of bolt clipping heaven, some onsighting and change of scene, venga bichos!
A classic 8a route from around Chamonix earlier this summer, can anyone guess which one?
Source: Hajj attempts and new Mecca Linkup (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2018, 07:00:50 pm
Hi folks, thanks for stopping by. I have just returned from a highly enjoyable two week trip to Chulilla and the Costa Blanca with my friends Haydn Jones, Sam Hamer and Jose. We spent 9 days in Chulilla over New Year and then travelled south to stay at Gaz Parry and Kate Mills' house near Oliva in the Costa Blanca for a further 4 days. For the last couple of days, we visited Jose in his home city of Murcia.
After the obligatory enforced layoff over Christmas it took a couple of days to find our feet but we soon acclimatised to the style of Chulilla, which generally offers long, vertical to gently overhanging wall climbing with most pitches being up to 30m or more in length. It seemed that half of Sheffield was visiting the area and it was cool to spend time with friends from familiar home crags. We lucked out with our accommodation and managed to get rooms in the same apartment as Matt Segal, of Progression fame. Most evenings were spent arguing the toss over grit highballing ethics with Matt and his mates. They cooked us up a proper banquet on New Years eve (see pic) as well, result!
News Years Eve banquet with the Yanks
The ancient village of Chulilla with arabic castle
So, what about the routes? I was psyched to spend some time on-sighting for a change and tried to be disciplined to move onto another route without redpointing it if I fell off. With whole sectors sporting endless 30m lines of 7c, 7c+ and 8a, who needs a first redpoint when there are onsight dragons to be slain! I was pleased to get two 8a onsights and some 7c+'s as well. My attempt to onsight an 8a+ called La Buena ended at bolt 5 of 18 unfortunately, you can't win 'em all ;0). We only took one rest day in 9 days which made a refreshing change to the many double rest days taken before redpoints on home ground. I am looking forward to spending more time on this style of climbing in the future, the other side of the coin to sieging. Here is my ticklist of 7b+ and above:
Chulilla Ticklist
8a+
La Buena (El Balcon) - Redpoint
8a
El capataz incapaz (El Balcon) - Onsight
El agente naranja (El Balcon) - Onsight
La boca de la voz (Pared de Enfrente) - 1st redpoint
7c+
Plantea Namek (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
Ramallar (Pared de Enfrente) - Onsight
La quebranta (Pared de Enfrente) - Onsight
El rey de la palanca (El Balconcito) - Onsight
El Bufa (El Balconcito) - Onsight
Tequila Sunrise (El Balconcito) - Onsight
7c
Hipotermia (El Algarrobo) - 1st redpoint
Nivelungalos (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
Bricopaco (El Algarrobo) - Redpoint
7b+
Nikita (Competition) - Onsight
Andromeda (Competition) - 1st redpoint
Ca La Marta (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
La Buena 8a+
El capataz incapaz 8a
Tequila Sunrise 7c+
In fairness, New Years eve in Chulilla had been a relatively tame affair so when the opportunity presented itself to party a bit in Valencia with Jose and his friends, we duly obliged. After a few beers, it seemed like the evening was heading to a close at midnight but then the cocktail bowls and bottles of spirits were busted out and an impromptu visit to a local club took place. The Spanish tend to stop out a fair bit later than us English folk, all I would say is sometimes you need more of a siesta than a fiesta! ;0)
With the party scores now settled, it was time to crank again and we were all excited to check out Gaz's local crags. Gaz and Kate very kindly put us up at their home just outside the small town of Oliva, which is not far from Alicante or Valencia airports. Situated amongst orange groves in some beautiful countryside just south of Gandia and a stone's throw from the Penon d'Ifach and Sella, this would make an ideal base for anybody looking to explore the Costa Blanca. I know Gaz has a room to rent so drop him a line if you are looking to spend time in this superb climbing area and soak up some rays!
Another grim day on the Costa Blanca
Gaz and Kate are both animal lovers and have a stable with some horses as well as some very friendly cats and dogs. The dogs include those unlucky animals who are unfortunate enough to have suffered an injury or simply have no home to go to. One of the dogs was my namesake which guaranteed some moments of confusion each morning before coffee had been consumed.
Some Spanish podencos
Feeding time
We were all excited to check out Gaz's local crag 'Sector 45' where his now ex-project Supersonico 8c+ is to be found. David Petts joined us to film the ascent with the aid of his awesome 'quadcopter' or drone which was buzzing around the crag filming the action from all sorts of angles. The days of hiring a helicopter for filming for £10,000 an hour are now a thing of the past. We were all very impressed with the gobsmacking hanging arete line of Supersonico and indeed the futuristic 9a+ project to its right, which is currently being worked by Spanish hotshot Primo. We all took the opportunity to tick the classic 7c 'Luz de Sol' that Gaz bolted along with the quality 7c and 7c+ tufa lines to the left with their tricky traverses on slopey tufas under the massive roof.
Haydn on Luz da Sol 7c Jose on Adios Sol 8b
Is it a bird, is it a plane?
On the last day of my stay, we had spent the morning resting and arrived at the crag at half 3 to take advantage of the cooler evening temps. Conditions definitely felt a lot better than the previous days of working routes and after Gaz did a massive link from low down on the route to nearly the top, I knew a send was on the cards. It was very inspiring to see Gaz on his ascent which was obviously the culmination of a lot of hard work and dedication.
Gaz post crux on Supersonico 8c+
Haydn on the7c+
After Supersonico went down, riding on a wave of psyche, I managed to redpoint the third ascent of the excellent 8b 'Adios Sol' of Gaz's which has some cool Oliana-like tufas on the bottom section leading to a rest before the final, very thin wall. In fact, this section is so thin that it very difficult to stop and clip on the final moves, perpetual motion upwards being your only hope! There is significant potential left at this crag not to mention the other crags littering the surrounding area, those after a new route fix need look no further.
Not a bad view from the crag
Celebrating that night involved a mega 'all you can eat' chinese buffet complete with sushi and a chocolate fountain dessert, washed down with some San Miguels, after all we were on holiday! The next day, I took the coach to Murcia to rejoin the lads who had travelled down a day earlier with Jose. After a further night out, including a visit to a club in an old bullring, we lapped up our last rays of sunshine at the quality crag La Boveda near Orihuela. After the crag cooled down at around 5, I managed a flash of 'El Grinch' 7c+ as my final send of the trip and we were airport-bound. What a trip, I hope you all enjoy your own Spanish adventures soon!
El Grinch 7c+ on the last day around Murcia
Source: Chulilla and Visit to Costa Blanca (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 22, 2018, 01:01:10 am
After getting back from Spain in January, it was time to focus on training in preparation for the forthcoming routes season. I have been listening to a few podcasts of late, in particular the excellent Training Beta podcasts https://www.trainingbeta.com/trainingbeta-podcast/ with people like Jonathan Siegrist, Carlo Traversi, Angie Payne and lately Adam Ondra interviewed which got my thinking on how I was going to improve my climbing for projects this year. I don't pretend to be remotely scientific about any of this and decided to stick to what seemed to work quite well last year, i.e. doing lots of fitness laps at a medium grade at Stockport wall along with some fingerboarding, sessions of 100 pullups and as much bouldering as possible.
Which leads me onto a key debate, how should a climber who spends most of the year doing stamina routes prepare for this? How much of the year should they spend bouldering? Personally, when I came back from Chulilla, I felt pretty weak bouldering wise. I felt I had to get back on track with busting out some V9's and 10's. Parisella's Cave on the Orme near Llandudno is the perfect venue for this as there a lots of linkups and hard boulders like Rockatrocity and Lou Ferrigno to test yourself against. After stringing together a few saturdays in the Cave, I was soon back on track and whilst not feeling as strong as I used to feel 5 years ago when I was purely bouldering, I was not far off. I must admit at times, thinking back to those days in 2009, the thought did flash across my mind of getting back into exclusive hardcore bouldering. I would like to do a V12 and reckon with sufficient training and focus it might be achievable. However, I love routes too much and being an allrounder, you have to put the hours in on a rope indoors (or doing circuits) to have any chance of keeping a cutting edge come the spring. So, a compromise was reached and over the last nearly 3 months I have been bouldering saturdays and sundays and doing 2 routes sessions in the week at Stockport with fingerboarding or pullups on a Tuesday morning, just to keep it real ;0).
More Lou Ferrigno action! http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization--non-linear-periodization/108438729
This has been the reasoning behind my loose 'non-linear' training approach and has been the source of many interesting debates on the way to the Cave recently. A friend of mine says that ultimately, to get stronger, it will be a case of having to knock fitness training on the head completely and work on power alone, maybe next year! Here is a video my friend Dan Cheatam made documenting some Cave action! This shows me working on Hatch Life High, a cool V11 which I managed to bag in February and captures the atmosphere of a good Cave session I reckon.
I am currently working on Lou Ferrigno sans Pocket, an upsidedown V11 with lots of compression and clamping along with Hatchatrocity, another meaty V11 link into the classic Rockatrocity V9. Fitness will get you nowhere on these beasts! Here are more vids of some forays to Tremerchion, an excellent roadside craglet of immaculate, crimpy limestone where several extremely cold sessions were had. Top tip, you can't fail to get mutant fingers cranking here, the holds are tiny! (Apologies for readers who have already seen these on Facebook).
36 Chamber Font V9
22 Chambers V9
A raid down to Dartmoor earlier this month yielded a tick of Jungle VIP, an excellent bloc-style V10 or V11 (depending on who you talk to) at Burrator Reservoir, along with a second ascent of Alex Waterhouse's excellent new V8 slab, Aurora at Combeshead Tor, see these vids:
Aurora V8 (second ascent)
So, how much should a stamina climber boulder? I have no idea! but for me I have decided to try and maintain a decent level of power whilst still majoring on fitness like I did last year. For the future, maybe the rope will be put on the shelf for 6 months in exchange for a sustained period of power training but not just yet, did someone say Malham and the Tor were nearly dry, I'm there!
Source: Bouldering in the Cave and thoughts on training (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 22, 2018, 01:00:16 pm
I have now been back 6 weeks since another amazing trip to Smith Rock in Oregon. After climbing To Bolt or Not to Be last year, I always wondered what the other famous Jibe Tribout route at Smith, Just Do It, would be like. Climbed back in 1992 by Jibe, this legendary line was the first 5.14c or 8c+ in the USA. I had heard that it is a very different animal to To Bolt as it is similarly vertical in the bottom two thirds but leans back considerably in the upper third of the route. The climb goes up the west face of the incredible Monkey pinnacle, which has to be one of the most impressive rock formations I have ever seen. The top section of the Monkey has a distictive band of purple rock and this is where the meat of the climb lies. The bottom part is a recognised 13d (or 8b) in its own right with its own chains. The upper part, which is mostly in the purple rock is considered to be 14a (or 8b+). I had seen the excellent videos of Ryan Palo and Drew Ruana crushing the route before my trip so I had some idea of what to expect. The route is long, at 35m+ it is a 17 bolt monster!
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| Me on Just Do It at the upper shake out (I'm wearing a black T shirt about 15 foot into the purple rock) |
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| The Team! (at Redmond Airport). Me and Richard |
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| Mike Doyle on technical edge cranking by the 3rd bolt |
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| Mike on the crux pocket move of the lower part by the 8th bolt |
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| Me approaching the shake out at the 13th bolt |
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| Mike approaching the purple band, at the 11th bolt |
So basically to do the route, you must do a long, technical, vertical 8b to the Sharma rest, a further 7b+ to a steep shake out on some flat jugs followed by a steeper, short and powerful 8b. If the route is broken down in this way, it begins to sounds almost manageable, however redpointing is the only way to test this! I have put together this 10 minute video of Mike on an attempt on the route just to show what its all about:
Video of attempt by Mike Doyle
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| Me just before the flat ledge and the upper 8b |
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| Mike about to go for the lett hand 2 finger crimp at the upper crux (14th bolt) with the Jibe rest up and left |
On the 6th session I again got up to the 2 finger crimp but still failed on the lunge for the tooth, although it was feeling closer. I had a concerted effort to finally do the link of the upper 8b from the flat jugs by the 13th to the chain and got quite close to getting through but didn't quite make it to the good 2 finger pocket. In retrospect and with more time on the route, I should have concentrated more on doing this 8b link before I made any attempts from the ground. As it was, it was tempting to have 2 full blooded redponts from the deck every session, which meant that I never managed to do this crucial link, which would have been a massive psychological boost.
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| The Monkey, never ceases to amaze! |
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| Sunset at the Monkey Face |
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| Last morning onsight attempt on Scene of the Crime 5.13b/ 8a |
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| Higher on Scene of the Crime |
Source: Attempts on Just Do It (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 23, 2018, 01:03:23 am
Hi folks I thought I would write a few words about my experiences on Hajj 8c at the Tor. A UKC Report from a few weeks back has the details but I though I would share a few thoughts and reflections on top of that and show a few of the photos, video stills and some of my own tripod footage that I have accumulated. Climbing Hajj represented a big milestone for my climbing and was a culmination of a lot of effort spread over 7 years at the Tor in trying first Mecca in 2007, 2008 and 2009 then the 3 extensions to it (The Extension, Kabaah and Hajj) in 2012, 2013, 2014 and this year.
David Pett's Video 'The Outdoor Office Part 1' of Hajj
Hajj closes a chapter for me and my involvement with Mecca, although I intend to keep doing it for training. Its time to move on to pastures new, even if that might only be 20 feet to the right to Evolution! I didn't like to think about what I would do after clipping the chains on Hajj as I preferred to focus on the challenge at hand. Now it has happened, the last few weeks I have been busy getting stuck into my next projects. These are True North 8c at Kilnsey and Evolution 8c+ at the Tor. It has been such a pleasure to seriously try such an amazing historic line as True North while fresh on my first day on on a saturday. For the last few years I have usually devoted my freshest climbing days to the Tor and while I don't begrudge that at all as it was all for my long term goal of doing the trilogy of Mecca extensions, the fact was that the years were going by and I wasn't getting a chance to try hard routes at other crags as much as I would have liked. Now I am free and it feels great! |
| Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - the crux of Hajj |
My own video of an attempt from last year
After coming back to Hajj in June off the back of my trip to Smith Rock this spring, I noticed it was easier to step my left foot up earlier before (rather than after) slapping into the first undercut for the left hand on the crux. This seemed to make the crux move feel a little easier going into and standing up into the right hand undercut. I had to press my feet a little harder into the tiny smears but once I got the engrams after repeated attempts, I was happy with the end result. Such a small change in beta but such a big difference! Also, I decided to sack off the long quickdraw on the crux and clip it short with my right hand off the undercut to the left of the Extension top pocket rest. As the foothold here is quite big, the position is not strenuous and you clip on your way up to the next handhold anyway. Suddenly the crux move felt easier as I found that before I was making it harder than it had to be by stepping round the rope in a position of some difficulty! My right foot now shot out quicker to the smear out right before I did the big reach up to the final crimps.
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| Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - Gaining the 'Horn' on Mecca by the 4th bolt |
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| Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - Getting into the first kneebar on Mecca |
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| Video still: The first crux on Mecca |
After failing at the upper crux from the ground five more times in June, I decided to try a new approach doing links from the top down. Two weekends before I did it, I had a massive breakthrough and managed to climb from the 4th bolt to the top and then from the 3rdbolt in the same session. I would recommend the top down approach to anybody looking to get past a sticking point on their redpoint project. I realised that in all my attempts from the ground last year and this year, I had never been from the 4th to the top. Doing this link was a big psychological step. I realised I was now getting fitter on the route, I could feel it on my link goes where I would flick hands between moves just to get a little bit back. By really looking closely and ticking up the best part of the left hand undercut on the crux (which is uneven and quite crozzly but with a better bit for 2 fingers at the bottom of the hold) rather than just getting it any old how was the key to getting the right hand undercut successfully. As you must semi-dynamically slap into the hold, it is tricky to get this right but it certainly made a difference.
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| Just before the first undercut on Mecca |
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| Taking the first lefthand crimp on the main crux of Mecca |
I found a funny, contorted double kneebar at the Mecca belay which took about 20% off my bodyweight I estimated, which all helps up there. I fine tuned my rest at the top Extension pocket and made sure I stayed there for only 1 chalk of each hand. Its not that great a rest as despite the pocket being massive, the footholds are off to the left and its quite draining to stand there for more than a few seconds.
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| Getting ready for the crux jump (for some!) |
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| Catching the horn on the Mecca crux |
So, what's next? Well I am excited to move on to new horizons and am having fun trying Evolution and True North. For the former, I may have to raise the bar bouldering-wise as a vicious V11 boulder problem over the roof left of Chimes of Freedom guards the top wall (which must be around 8b in its own right). Not even a spot to chalk up on the entire route, tough stuff! One thing for sure, this route is a considerable jump upwards in difficulty from Mecca, not many takers for this one. True North is a little steeper than most of my projects that I have tried but it motivates me to try and get better at this style, which is more Euro style, pumpy endurance cranking rather than straight crimping.
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| Jerry Moffatt on Evolution 8c+, Raven Tor |
I leave you with Jon Clark's excellent video from last year, which contains some earlier footage of Hajj from last year and sums up the psyche required for climbing at the Tor in December! Thanks for reading and good luck on all your projects out there!
Source: Hajj and future projects (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 23, 2018, 01:00:29 pm
Now the autumn rains have finally arrived seems a good time to write a few words about my efforts at Kilnsey over the last 2 and a half months. It has mostly been a good, dry summer apart from a 3 week blip in the last half of August and we have even enjoyed something of an Indian Summer through mid September and into early October. Since July, I continued with evening sessions at Raven Tor despite the shortening evening light and had some productive sessions on Evolution, managing to do the top wall in a oner and getting to the two crimps over the lip from the ground and having a go at the crux rockover. I now see what it will take to climb this route, which is more power, put simply! I also did lots of bouldering to keep on top of this side of my climbing doing ever increasing links on Ben's Roof, Powerband and the usual suspects down the right hand of the Tor. However, I decided to devote my energies to True North 8c (the extension to Full Tilt 8b) at the weekends so have put Evo on the back burner for now.
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| Adrift in a sea of rock. The sanctuary of the kneebar of Full Tilt with 8b climbing to go from here |
Attempt in September
I would often try the route 2 days on the trot on saturday and sunday as I was paranoid about it getting wet the next weekend, even if the crag was bone dry, given its notorious reputation for taking any seepage going. I was surprised at how even if I was feeling broken on sunday morning, after warming up, I was still able to make some good redpoints, its amazing what you can put your body through. Perhaps in retrospect it might have been better to have done some less intense climbing second day on and got some mileage in on some 8a+'s at other crags which is what I would have done on any other route at my limit. However, obsession took over and I was psyched to gradually piece the route together and get increments of progress with each visit.
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| Match of justice on the first crux of Full Tilt 8b |
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| Comedy 7c |
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| The lower crux of Comedy |
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| Vertical tech on Man with a Gun 7c+ |
- Bullet 8a+
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| Starting the crux moves on Bullet 8a+ |
- 50 for 5/ The Ashes 8a+
- Complete Control 8a
- Sticky Wicket/ The Ashes 8a
- Rubble 7c (onsight)
- Dreamtime 7c+
- Dead Calm 7c+
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| Stamina needed on Dead Calm 7c+ |
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| Trying La Connection 8b |
It was frustrating to slip off on several occasions whilst feeling fresh and strong on one time after redpointing Full Tilt as my left hand lost traction in the dampness at the back of the pocket by the belay and by the 3rd bolt when I took a big whip completely out of the blue pinging off a damp pinch, suitable swear words at the ready :). However, ulimately, I cannot blame the dampness or any other reason for not climbing True North. Not being able to get my left hand fully into the deep pocket you clip the Full Tilt belay off before taking the awful thumb press for the right hand and using it to gain the higher razor blade for the left hand (which is one of the harder moves on True North) undoubtedly made this move harder than it had been in August when this pocket had been totally dry. This was because I was using a diabolical polished footdink as my main right foothold and could hardly get any weight through it, making this move desparate as I was so bunched on the handholds; this method may be easier for the short as they are less bunched.
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| Moving right from the Full Tilt belay into the first crux of True North |
On the upper moves off the burly left hand undercut, I also discovered a significantly easier method as I had been too bunched again on all of my 7 best attempts. Basically I had discounted a good, low right foothold by a bolt in favour of putting my right foot straight up on a high, downwards sloping niche hold that I now use later on in the sequence, which made standing up into the undercut the living end on the link, although it felt misleadingly OK on my warmup links. My new sequence has two new foot moves which make this bit easier overall as it is less strenuous and involves keep my feet lower.
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| The hardest move of Full Tilt (for me). Going direct above the 3rd bolt using the boney left sidepull. |
Source: A Kilnsey Summer and Campaign on True North (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2018, 01:02:21 am
I've been back nearly 2 weeks now since another trip to Smith Rock to try the world famous 'Just Do It'. I have been going through the photos that some of the talented photographers, Heather Furtney, Jason Bagby and Julien Havac took of me on the route and thought I would share some of them here. I was excited to see what difference a summer of climbing would make compared to my attempts in May plus the fact that I knew the beta now. As things turned out, I ended up trying True North up until early October due to Kilnsey remaining amazingly dry so it didn't leave much time to prepare for a longer, supposedly pumpier affair like Just Do It. However I needn't have worried as despite its 35m length, this rig is much more about power than stamina, unlike Jibe's other famous line at Smith To Bolt or Not to Be.
I went alone this time and was lucky enough to get belays off some kind local climbers (Andrew, Crit, Justin, Andi and Calvin thanks a tonne!) Conditions were better than in May being mostly colder and without too much wind. The day after flying in and attending the Reel Rock Tour film showing in Bend, I went up to re-familiarise with the moves and the day after, managed to do some decent links on the upper section. It reminded me of how hard the crux by bolt 14 actually is. Imagine a viscous V8+ shouldery, crimp problem on Pill Box Wall on the Orme and you wouldn't be far off! This first hard section leads to a 'pod' resting slot (described in more detail in my post back in May).
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| Reaching the crux left hand crimper at bolt 14 (Picture by Heather Furtney) |
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| The crux move at Bolt 14 (Picture by Jason Bagby) |
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| Sticking the 'tooth' by bolt 14 (Picture by Heather Furtney) |
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| Leaving the resting pod and starting the tricky traverse at bolt 15 (picture by Heather Furtney) |
Crossing through to the gaston off the first pocket then using it to stick the second (Pics by Heather Furtney)
Alan Watt's description of the route from his seminal 1992 guidebook is below:
I would agree that the first 13 bolts are merely a warm up (!) for the difficulties between bolts 14 and 16 when you are hit with some savage cranks straight off a good but quite pumpy resting rail at bolt 13. These days the bottom part of the route to bolt 10 is considered 13b or 8b due to some very thin pulls on pockets and crimps but after doing it a few times and getting it wired, its probably only 13c or 8a+ I reckon, like Alan Watts says.
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| Easier moves at bolt 4 (Picture Jason Bagby) |
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| Approaching the lower crux at bolt 8 (Picture by Jason Bagby) |
On my next session I started climbing from the belay at the end of the first pitch (bolt 10), which must be 8b+ if climbed to the top and links through a 3 bolt 7b or 7b+ to the resting rail at bolt 13 before embarking on the top 8b section. On this link attempt, I was pleased to make it through the crux at bolt 14 (the first time I had ever climbed any distance into it). After a brief shake at the resting pod and chalk on each hand, I got to the stab move to the second 2 finger pocket, just failing to stick it. I have made a little video of my link attempts on the upper section plus the bottom wall to give you a flavour of the climbing involved (and to remember the moves for future attempts):
If I had had more time I would have continued trying this link as it would have been a big confidence boost to have got it in the bag before trying from the ground. However, with only a week left it seemed to make more sense to try the full rig and 'roll the dice'. On my 5th day I started the first of 3 days' worth of attempts from the ground before my trip ended. Each session would start off with 20 minutes warming up on a board indoors before hiking up Misery Ridge to the Monkey and climbing Spank the Monkey, a runout 12a. I would then climb short sections on the route to the top to prepare for full blown attempts. I had 6 attempts, two per session and got to the move slapping for the tooth before the resting pod on 6 occasions in total. I felt closer to this move from the ground than in May when I frequently fell on the previous move to the left hand crimp before the slap to the tooth. It was frustrating not to stick the tooth though and make it to the resting pod. You would think that with an excellent, approaching hands off rest at bolt 9 (I stood here for 2 - 3 minutes on redpoint), you would recover almost back to zero and I felt fresh at this rest on all of these 6 attempts. However, something about having cranked through all of the lower section five minutes before attacking the upper section makes it tougher to crack than if you have simply slumped on the rope at bolt 10.
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| Reaching bolt 16 on a link attempt, nearly there! (Picture by Jason Bagby) |
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| Hiking up Misery Ridge to the Monkey Face with Calvin (Picture by Julien Havac) |
I hope these ramblings encourage others out there knuckling down to long term projects. Redpointing ain't easy and if they went down without a fight, it would hardly be worth it would it? Onwards to projects in the UK and the next trip!
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| A moody looking East Face of the Monkey (Picture by Julian Havac) |
Source: Progress on Just Do It (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2018, 01:00:10 pm
Happy New Year everyone, I hope all your climbing wishes come true in 2016! To update you all about the last 2 months or so since I came back from Smith Rock at the start of November, I started a period of exclusively bouldering at the Rockover bouldering centre in Manchester (which is 5 minutes' drive away from where I live) in the evenings after work. I combined this with weekend sessions bouldering in Parisella’s Cave on the Orme outside Llandudno. My aim was to increase my power levels in order to prepare for my objectives for the coming year, which are Just Do It at Smith Rock, True North at Kilnsey and Evolution at Raven Tor and also to prepare for a forthcoming 8 day trip to Suirana I had planned with Ally Smith.
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| Give me more of that orange stone! Mucho Troncdo poca Madera 7c, El Pati, Suirana (the onsight that got away!) |
After 6 weeks of pure bouldering I was starting to feel reasonably strong and was coming close to ticking Hatchatrocity, a tough Font 8A in the Cave, falling off the move to the final pocket several times. However, it wasn’t to be after some seriously heavy rain beat down in late November/ early December which meant some key holds required drying before each attempt, which didn't help matters.
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| Something to train for! Pocket cranking on the steep start to Magic Festival 7c, Raco de Tenebres, Margalef |
Also, unfortunately, I sustained quite a bad ‘category 2’ sprain on my left ankle in mid December after bailing out from the Cave one Saturday morning after arriving to find it was completely condensed out. On the way home, an awkward, twisting fall at the Boardroom bouldering centre onto quite a hard mat resulted in a trip to A and E, a precautionary x-ray and 2 weeks of exclusive beastmaker training while the swelling gradually went down. Oh well, take in on the chin as they say! This meant that I had to alter my objectives for my Spain trip. As the first 10 days or so involved getting back to walking normally, hard climbing would have to take a back seat for a week or two. I had intended to try Migranya, a tough 8b which I had tried on a previous trip and which is a powerful number. However, after a trip to my physio, Cathy Gordon of Romiley Physio (see www.romileyphysio.com if you fancy an excellent service in the Manchester area) and getting the all clear to go, I was keen just to see how my ankle would fare and trying more vertical, less intense climbs seemed a sensible plan.
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| Ally on La Seconella Direct 7a+, Suiranella Centre |
As it worked out, 2 weeks off actual climbing coinciding with the Christmas festivities meant that the first couple of days were spent getting back into the groove and the ankle felt pretty weird and weak at first. Just scrambling in to the crags over rocky and uneven paths without tweaking it was a challenge. I was climbing with a baggy boot on my left foot and a neoprene ankle support to protect it. I was therefore reasonably satisfied to redpoint a 7b+ on my second day.
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| Ally at Suiranella Centre |
On previous trips, due to quite a few days spent redpointing Zona-0 and Ramadan and trying Migranya, I hadn’t made it round to the Suiranella crags before and I was keen to change that and sample what they had to offer. We ventured round to Suiranella Centre on the 3rd day and I managed to onsight a 7b+ without any problems. The following day, I was starting to feel like my ankle was getting back to normal whilst climbing and I managed to bust out a couple of 7c onsights at Raco de la Finestra, a superb pockety crag in Margalef.
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| Pockety fun on Magic Festival 7c Raco de Tenebres, Margalef - don't forget the kneebar ;) |
After a rest day, and not having a 2 day hangover for a change ;), we decided to hit up Suiranella Centre again. After warming up onsighting a 7b+ and fluffing a tricky 7c, I decided to have a go at Memorias de una Sepia, a crimpy looking 8a after watching another climber crush it and taking mental note of all the foot bumps on the crux. There seemed to be a left foot heel hook move using some poor slopey crimps to deadpoint for some better holds leading into a scoop by the 4th bolt. I had been informed that from here to the top is 7b+ so I knew this should be doable. The heel hook crux went exactly as planned with a few desperate slaps and was the first heel hook since my sprain so I was psyched it still worked and there were no ill effects. Getting into the scoop was satisfying but the rest wasn’t quite as good as I had hoped. Nothing for it but to quest on upwards! Knowing that an 8a flash was on the cards if I could keep it together was a great incentive to keep cranking and I took my time over the next 6 bolts, milking the rests and trying to keep my cool on the last redpoint crux, a crank on some tiny crimps with a left foot jam in a crack leading to a monster jug and easy ground. I was made up to be back climbing nearly at my best onsight/ flash level so soon into my ankle recovery.
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| Victory pose after flashing Memorias de una Sepia 8a, Suiranella Centre |
To celebrate, I redpointed a tricky 7c, Matarrates, further left on the same crag and eyed up La Crema, a famous 7c+ wall climb I had wanted to try the next day.
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| The bulge of Matarrates, a quality 7c at Suiranella Centre |
After a few beers in Goma Dos, the new local bar for climbers in Cornudella, the next day, I warmed up on a 7b and then set off on my onsight attempt of La Crema. It all went well with some tricky, technical moves interspersed with good shakeouts (so much so that I had to force myself to leave them at times). A total hands off rest 3 bolts from the top is the nail in the coffin of the route being 8a (it isn’t, despite the abundance of 8a ticks on scorecards out there ;)) and allowed a complete recovery before tackling the top crux. This involves a few intense cranks on some tiny crimps on a slab which allow you to do a hopeful rock-up for some more positive crimps and the jug of glory! I was pleased with this one as while on paper it was my ideal route being a crimpy, vertical wall climb, it still has to climbed at the end of the day. Setting off is the hardest part as always and once into the rhythm of climbing, I enjoyed every minute until the chain was clipped.
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| Onsighting La Crema 7c+ Suiranella East |
Unfortunately, I split a tip on the top crux and had to tape up my right index finger for the remaining 2 days of climbing. This didn’t stop a productive day at Margalef however during which I managed to flash a 7c, La Corva de Felicitat at Raco de Tenebres, a cool, steep conglomerate/ pocket crag and redpoint 2 others including Tsunami, a powerful short one that had got away on my last visit to the area in 2012.
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| Tsunami 7c at Sector Laboratori, Margalef (no walk-in required!). Brian Weaver climbing in lower picture |
On the final day, we both felt quite tired but last day psyche kicked in and we both managed to redpoint La Ardilla Roja, a tricky 7c right of Zona-0 at El Pati after we had failed to onsight it. With an hour to go before we had to bail to Barcelona airport for our evening flight back to Manchester, I managed to onsight a 7c at El Primavera Sector to round off a highly enjoyable trip.
I was happy to be back climbing after the ankle incident and whilst the swelling is still there and I am not allowed to jump down from boulder problems for another 10 days, I am pleased with progress so far and psyched to get back to bouldering training. Interestingly, I have always found that a fitness trip like this usually kickstarts my bouldering for some reason, no idea why, maybe a break from a power cycle or something rests the muscles!? I will leave that one to the training boffins out there J Happy climbing folks.
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| Suirana Village from Suiranella Centre |
My Trip Ticklist above 7b+
8a
Memorias de una Sepia(flash) Suiranella Centre
7c+
La Crema (onsight) Suiranella South
7c
Antologica(onsight) Raco de la Finestra, Margalef
Festa Fotre(onsight) Raco de la Finestra, Margalef
Estratosferica Suiranella Centre
Matarrates Suiranella Centre
Mucho Tronco poca Madera El Pati, Suirana
Magic Festival Raco de Tenebres, Margalef
La Corva de Felicitat (flash) Raco de Tenebres, Margalef
Tsunami Sector Laboratori, Margalef
La Ardilla Roja El Pati, Suirana
Hijos de la Pedri (onsight) El Primavera, Suirana
7b+
Teoria Punset Suiranella East
La Refinaria (onsight) Suiranella Centre
Berrio Cabrero (onsight) Suiranella Centre
Source: Suirana/ Margalef 2016 (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2018, 07:00:16 pm
Hi folks, I thought I would write a little round up of the training and bouldering I've been doing over the last 6 months and my latest trip to Smith Rock along with my goals for this summer. The winter was spent training hard, doing a lot of bouldering at the excellent Manchester Depot and fingerboarding on my new beastmaker. I have a nasty ankle sprain back in December to thank for getting me more into 'hangboarding' as the yanks would call it. While laid up in December and before I could jump off properly again in early February, I had a period of intense sessions, often doing 7 climbing sessions per week spread over 5 days, with 2 rest days. Weekends were spent bouldering in Wales, mainly in Parisella's Cave but with frequent visits to Pantymwwn, Tremeirchion and the excellent micro crag, the Gop, near Prestatyn. This was hard work but I was psyched because it was with the overall aim of raising the bar strength-wise so I could have a good chance of making a breakthrough on or actually doing my project 'Just Do It' out at Smith and also to put me in good shape for my projects on UK lime.
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| Smoke a Bloke, Font 7b+ at the Gop, North Wales (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
When you want something badly enough, you'll go the extra mile and make sacrifices to achieve your aim whether that is an hour less in bed before work, fingerboarding
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| The last move of Solomon's Seal Font 7c+ (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Solomon's Seal 7c+ (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
at 7:15am or busting out an extra lap on Rockatrocity when the wind is whistling through the back of the Cave and its 3 degrees. I knew I had to get stronger to have any chance on the savage crux of Just Do It, situated by the 14th bolt and it was with this in mind that I set myself mini goals of doing Hatchatrocity 8A in the Cave, 36 Chambers Sit start 8A at Tremeirchion and Blokesmoker Low 8A at the Gop. I even threw in as a goal a grit 8A called Solomon's Seal Sit start at Stanage after getting the stand start (Font 7C+) wired.
Ticking off anything remotely hard is satisfying and it was gratifying to tick off Hatchatrocity and 36 Chambers sit start both on the same day in March on my best day's bouldering since 2009. The others will have to wait as shortly after this, I had to do some emergency stamina training at Stockport Wall with 3 weeks to go before my flight and had to postpone attempts on these other projects. Sometimes its hard being an allrounder! Even though bouldering is great as a way of training endurance as well as power (aka Jerry Moffat's training philosophy), the thought of setting off on a 30m monster pitch having done no roped climbing for 3 months was sufficient to scare me into putting some time into this aspect of my climbing.
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| 36 Chambers Sit, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| The reachy starting moves of 36 Chambers Sit (Font 8A) Pic: Sam Pratt |
Sam Pratt, a talented photographer and climber living in Manchester has been coming out with me to Wales and the Peak and has been taking some snaps, some of the best ones are here. Thanks a lot for all these shots Sam!
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| Hatchatrocity, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| The last few moves of Rockatrocity on the link in from Hatchatrocity, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
A couple of weekends before flying out to Smith, I had a couple of pretty cold outings to Malham where I managed to tick 'A.B.H' 8a+, a pumpy link up of GBH into Baboo Baboo, which was a good early season outing. I'm looking forward to some more Yorkshire action this summer, with True North, unfinished business from last season, being my primary objective. With Kilnsey already dry, attempts have begun at the time of writing, but more on that in future blogs :).
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| Under the Bridge, Font 7b+, Pantymwyn (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Early on in the lower pitch (Bolts 1 - 10) Pic: Julien Havac |
I have been trying Just Do It for a year now, spread over three, 2 week trips. So, how did this trip's attempt go? Well, after 4 days re familiarising with the moves doing some links into the crux from the belay at the end of the first pitch (at bolt 10), I decided to concentrate more on top-down links rather than try repeatedly from the ground as this had started to become quite frustrating on my previous trips. We were hit with 5 days of very warm weather in the middle of the trip which was not ideal. It was like summer with temps as high as 79 degrees Fahrenheit making serious attempts out of the question. The Monkey is cooler than the lower climbing areas and often much windier but this has limits and on one abortive attempt, I literally has moist fingertips before bearing down on the left hand crux crimp, which meant pulling on the razor blade hold was a non starter it was so painful! Thankfully, on the last day of these warmer temps, a nice breeze was blowing when I set off on my link go from bolt 10 at 7:30pm. Climbing through the last 3 bolts of the yellow rock (a 10 metre 7b+ leading up to the upper resting ledge at bolt 13 just into the purple band) I realised conditions were actually pretty good due to the effect of the wind. Indeed, that same evening my friend Peder Groseth, a local Bend strongman, sent Starvation Fruit, a long 8c on the Picnic Lunch Wall that day so they can't have been that bad!
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| Gaining the porthole rest at bolt 15 (Pic: Julien Havac) |
My goal on this link attempt was to get to the top and I was chuffed to get to the resting 'porthole' (shown in the picture below of the first ascentionist Jibe Tribout back in 1992) for the second time that session. I realised also that I wasn't that pumped at this point, unlike on many of my other link goes. The moves leaving the porthole constitute the redpoint crux of the route and although not as hard as the crimpy V9 moves gaining it, they are a major hurdle to clipping the chains.
(See my earlier blog post for more detail and photos of these moves:
http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/progress-on-just-do-it.html).
It was the move shown in the picture below that I managed to stick for the first time linking from bolt 10, a stab off a tiny left hand gaston crimp into a deep 2 finger pocket with a tiny smear for your right toe that requires a fair degree of accuracy. Unfortunately I fell off the last hard move of the pitch, a throw off a slopey sidepull crimp for your left hand for a crimp rail by bolt 16, which marks the start of the exit moves to bolt 17. Still I was pleased to have nearly done the 8b+ link from the top of the first pitch to the top.
So, with 4 climbing days left, I surely had to try from the ground and luckily was blessed with some cooler temps when I next came up to the Monkey with my friend Calvin. On my first go from the ground this trip, I was really pleased to get to the porthole at the 15th bolt for the first time, this link is 8c I reckon if the whole route is 8c+. I was buzzing as on my previous 2 trips I had fallen around 12 times from this move from the ground; it was the breakthrough I had been looking for. In retrospect I hung around too long in the porthole and didn't have the best way of holding it to rest. It is pretty awkward to hold as although it is a good jug, you have to hold it cross handed and there is only room for 7 fingers and the feet are not great so you are mostly on your arms. So when I embarked on the redpoint crux I didn't have much left to give and fell off 3 moves into the traverse rightwards.
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| The upper crux by bolt 15 (Pic: Heather Furtney) |
I was then faced with a dilemma with 3 days left. Do I rest 1 day then try the next to last day with the possibility of another attempt on the last day? Or rest 2 full days before an attempt on the last day? Or do some lighter climbing tomorrow then take a single rest day before have a last day attempt? I chose the latter strategy as I felt I was gaining fitness from doing other, easier pitches both on the same day after attempts on Just Do It and also on the next day before taking a rest day. A tick of Churning in the Ozone, a long, pumpy 8a probably in retrospect took more out of me than I expected but I enjoyed the pitch and it is so difficult to judge these things just right. Anyway, the last day dawned and my friend Andrew Hunzicker and me warmed up in Aggro Gully before heading up to the Monkey where we were greeted with really good conditions. After my initial warm up go, I set off feeling really good but unfortunately, the draw on the 14th bolt, which most people don't clip on the lead, stabbed me in the chest during the crux move as I was trying to get really close into the wall, pushing me off the move! I was gutted as this was the first time this had happened and I was feeling really good. No matter, after an hour and fifteen minutes rest and the draw safely removed from the 14th bolt, I had another go and got a new highpoint, making 2 moves further than my previous session and reaching the porthole for the second time. This time I had made a conscious decision not to outstay my welcome and set off after around a minute's shaking out. I had very little left for the pocket stab move but was psyched to have finally got there and had a go in anger. Would I have been fresher after 2 full rest days? Who knows, all I know is that I have proved to myself that this rig is possible for me for sure and that I'll be back next year for hopefully 3 weeks or a longer trip, can't wait! Here is a little video of my best attempt:
I was definitely feeling stronger this trip than October last year from all the bouldering and training and now know that as the route is so bouldery, it suits me to go in the Spring rather than the Autumn when a summer campaign of routing will inevitably mean a slight drop off in power at the expense of increased route fitness. So, here's to Spring 2017! In the meantime, there are plenty of hard sport routes to be dealing with here in the UK and I have been on Evolution as well as True North in the last few sessions, its certainly exciting to get involved with all these classic hard routes. Til next time, enjoy your climbing out there!
Source: Winter bouldering and Spring trip back to Smith (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2018, 01:03:32 am
Hi folks, I thought I would update you all on progress on projects which I have been trying this year. As anyone who has devoted more than 3 days to a redpoint project can attest, the closer to your limit a route is the more things have to fall exactly in place for a send to take place. I have been beavering away at 2 main projects this year, at two crags that could not be more different but which I love spending time at in equal measure. The first is True North 8c at Kilnsey in Yorkshire and the second is Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rock out in Oregon, USA. Having multi year projects has its challenges both mental and physical but I am hoping to seal the deal on both of them as soon as I can, roll on next season!
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| Leaving the Full Tilt belay on the first crux of True North (Pic - Dale Comley) |
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| The upper crux of Evolution 8c+, Raven Tor (Pic - Sam Pratt) |
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| Locking the gaston pocket up to the left hand mono at the end of the first crux of True North (Pic - Dale Comley) |
Looking back on how the summer panned out, I spent pretty much every weekend at Kilnsey from mid May through to the end of August, including a couple of half days in mid week and spent a lot of time on the route. After a complete sequence rebuild I was able to work out my ideal beta by mid July and made it to the last move for the first time. I got there 6 times in total by mid August which was a breakthrough in itself after failing at the penultimate bolt multiple times last summer, i.e. at the part where it steepens up to 60 degrees around a chunky glued block. What made the difference was firstly going out right by the third bolt on Full Tilt, which actually saves power for higher up on the route, even though its more long winded than going direct. Actually, for all but the most flexible, the direct moves are now basically defunct after a crucial foot spike for the flag move crumbled away (along with a few others, fortunately not irreparably ;)) Also, by keeping my feet lower on the first move after the Full Tilt belay (see pic at top of the page) and bridging out down and to the right so the moves using the razor crimps were less bunched up was much easier than my previous method. On the moves at the glued block, Luke Dawson pointed out that it is easier to throw a left heel up before you slap up for the big slot by the last bolt, which was a huge help and put me on the last move, which was exciting.
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| Clipping the penultimate bolt on True North, at the 'eyes' and before the glued block (Pic: Dale Comley) |
On the last weekend in July, I got to the last move 3 times on the saturday and sunday and it looked like I had a good chance of doing it. However, it wasn't to be as the crag proceeded to get progressively wetter, catastrophically so in mid August, putting paid to all suitors' ambitions for another year (apart from a certain Alex Megos who was the only (2nd go) ascentionist this year). Oh well, this is part of the challenge of the route and it means that you have to really tick it in May/ June or risk running the gauntlet of the crag turning into a waterfall. Next year, I plan to hit the route early and take strategic leave days in May/ June for the campaign. Now knowing my perfect beta, which has definitely been hard won (!) no sessions will be wasted working stuff out so its all down to training and execution.
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| Wrestling with the glued block, which guards entry to the last move, strenuous stuff! (Pic - Dale Comley) |
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| Sticking the slot by the last bolt (don't do it this way, whack your left heel up on the block first!) (Pic - Dale Comley) |
After North Buttress got wet, I took advantage of the chance to head to Smith at short notice that changing jobs had offered. One moment I was doing a lantern session at Rubicon, the next I was tying on under Just Do It on the Monkey Face, shaking off the jet lag! With a long stretch of 30 days to go for attempts, I was careful to try and avoid trying it too much and in the first 10 days or so, had second day sessions on White Wedding 8b+ or 5.14a in Aggro Gully to mix things up a bit, which I managed to send (see the video below):
So how did the redpoints go? Well at the end of my trip in April, I was pleased to make it to the 'porthole' (see my the second half of my blog post here: http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/winter-bouldering-and-spring-trip-back.html). With a bit more time to play with this trip, I initially spent a few sessions on links in the upper part of the route, managing for the first time to link from the belay of the first vertical 8a+/8b pitch (at the 10th bolt) to the upper chains, which is a 15 meter 8b+ in its own right. Logically, if you can do this link then you should be able to seal the deal from the ground as there is a very good stemming rest just down and right of the 10th bolt, the famous 'Sharma' rest where he takes his jumper off in the Pusher video from 1997, where you can stand around for up to 3 minutes. However, I found during repeated redpoints from the ground that in spite of this rest, the upper crux feels substantially more pumpy than when you approach it just having done the 3 bolt 7b+/7c from the belay.
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| Not a wet crimp in sight! (Pic - Bob Loomis) |
On redpoint from the ground, I would get through the lower crux by the 14th bolt (a savage Font 7b+ crimp move in the steep purple rock) most redpoints (8 times this trip in total) but fail to get through the upper crux due to very high levels of pump. The porthole is such a good hold, albeit with very poor feet that it is tempting to outstay your welcome there. I would generally spend 45 secs to a minute there trying desparately to expel all the lactic acid from my forearms before pressing on. The upper crux feels extremely taxing in that state of pump as it is an insecure Font 7b stab to a deep 2 finger pocket that requires you to retain good form using an awkward right smear and executing a big cross through to a tiny left hand gaston crimp and then to the deep 2 finger pocket. Funnily enough, the stronger you feel and less pumped you are, the easier these moves feel, go figure!
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| At the first shake by the 5th bolt (5.13b or 8a to here (Pic - Bob Loomis) |
I was hit with a 6 day warm spell at the 2 week mark after having 4 or so attempts where I was quite close to sticking the pocket. However, for some reason, I kept repeatedly getting the gaston too low on the cross through and once that happens there is no way back, no adjusting is possible! Hard climbing was pretty much out of the question with temps up to 93F on one day. After some trail building in Cocaine Gully and a few training sessions in shady Aggro Gully, it was time to resume attempts. However, there was now an element of time pressure as I had less than 2 weeks left. The problem with a route of this nature on a relatively short trip is that you need a full rest day between serious attempts due to the sharp nature of the rock and the fact that you are pretty much wasted the next day! The days soon mount up and suddenly I was down to the last week. I was taking 2 full rest days to be totally fresh after a chat with Sonnie Trotter (which was rad!) who gave me some more ideas for foot beta - he sent it back in 2000.
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| The first crux of the upper section by the 14th bolt, the porthole rest up and left (Pic - Jason Bagby) |
I gave it a really good go with 3 days to go with Calvin in pretty much perfect temps of 56F and had one finger in the back of the 2 finger pocket on the upper crux and felt the least pumped yet in the porthole. However, as soon as my left fingers bit into the sharp gaston on the cross through I knew I was a little too low on it again, my body sagged downwards slightly and my left elbow went up... I was off again! On my last attempt on the last day after only one rest day where the very friendly French climbers Nina Caprez and Christophe Bichet were enjoying their second day in the Park up on the Monkey I didn't manage to make it to the porthole due to still being fatigued from my last attempt.
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| :Leaving the porthole, the big span for the first 2 finger pocket (Pic - Heather Furtney) |
I am more motivated than ever to return as I have a better idea of what is required in order to send this beast having been up to the redpoint crux a fair few times now. You need to be both fit and strong at the same time, not an easy combo! There are plenty of climbers out there with multi-year projects in a similar situation who I draw inspiration from. Back at Malham and the Tor and in a new job, I am reflecting on the experience and already planning my winter's training for next year's bout on both Just Do It and True North. Thanks for reading and keep the faith on your projects out there!
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| Just Do It 8c+, East Face of the Monkey, Smith Rock (Pic: Adam McKibben) |
Source: Project updates from Kilnsey and Smith Rock (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2018, 01:00:20 pm
I thought it was about time I put pen to paper, so to speak, and write a little update on my winter's bouldering and training for you to digest while you are all munching your Easter eggs! The last time I blogged last year I was about to embark on a period of indoor training and bouldering with all the crags either already seeping or about to. I had some interesting sessions at Malham and Raven Tor right at the end of the routes season on Pete Dawson's new route Something for Nothing 8c and Evolution 8c+, making some mini breakthroughs on both, which has given me something to think about over the winter.
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| Texas Hold Em Font 7B+, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Musas Inquietantas 8a, Lower Gorge, El Chorro (Pic; Adam Bailes) |
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| Porrot 7c+, Makinodromo, El Chorro |
Youtube bouldering Vimeo bouldering
Here are a few pictures of the bouldering I've accumlated over the last few months:
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| Halfway House Font 7C+, Parisella's Cave (Pic: Ally Smith) |
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| Pit Problem Font 7B, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Texas Hold Em Font 7B+, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| The Lizard King Font 7C, under Dinas Mot (Pic: George Dunning) |
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| The Tracks Font 8A, Barrel Cave (video still) |
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| Pump up the Valium Font 7c+, Raven Tor (Pic: Ally Smith) |
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| Views from Sunny Wall, Great Orme |
Source: Happy Easter! Update on bouldering and training (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2018, 07:00:23 pm
I thought I would bring you all up to date with what I've been up to over the last 2 months or so on the Yorkshire sport crags. Since mid April and pretty much as soon as both crags properly dried out, I have been heading to Malham and Kilnsey with some unfinished business in mind. High up on my list of projects were Pete Dawson's Something for Nothing 8c at Malham and True North 8c at Kilnsey, both of which I had been involved with since 2014.
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| The crux of True North 8c at Kilnsey (Pic: Sam Pratt). My old, duff method! |
By early April, I was making good progress on one of my projects in the Cave, In Hell V12 but I made the decision to cease attempts on that for now and divert all my energies into sport projects. My aim was to capitalise on a sustained period of bouldering and deadhanging since November last year. In Hell will always be there and is one of the driest problems around so it was an easy decision to make, even though I had been close, falling off 3 times after the flake match on Rockatrocity. Only one way to find out if I would be fit enough for Yorkshire, get involved!
I had had some good burns on Something for Nothing back in November when Pete did the first ascent, getting halfway through the crux sequence by the last bolt. However, there is a savage crank off a 2 finger pocket to a distant undercut on the crux and this always stopped me cold trying it from the ground. With this in mind, my first objective on day 1 this year was to try and get the key link climbed from the 6th bolt of Cry Freedom (before the 1st crux of that route) to the top. On a half day off work with Al belaying, I shocked myself by climbing this link on my second day back on the route. This piece of climbing must rate 8b+ and only leaves the small matter of the introductory 7c of Cry Freedom leading to the undercut shakeout at the 6th bolt to link in. I felt way better than when I was last trying the rig in November, game on!
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| The crux of Something for Nothing 8c at Malham (Screengrab from video footage) |
Barely able to contain psyche in between visits to the crag, I started the familiar process of trying to batter the route into submission. It took a few more visits on strategic half days off work to get it in the bag. I found that the stopping point on all of my redpoints was standing up into the crux undercut that you cross through to with your left hand off the 2 finger pocket. I must have had about 7 redpoints (2 a day) reaching this point before I finally managed to creep over the line and stand up to quickly reach over for the sloper which marks the end of the crux sequence. With Rich Waterton belaying it was an incredible feeling topping this one out, the end of 4 year saga!
Video of Something for Nothing 8c
So, one down and my thoughts turned immediately to Kilnsey where I had already had a few sessions in late April refreshing the moves on True North. Kilnsey in April is not for the faint hearted and several baltic sessions were had where the only respite from the bitter north wind was hiding in the car inbetween burns. Iain McDonald kindly held my rope on a few occasions where I didn't have a belayer and, desparate to keep momentum up and with nobody keen to freeze their asses off, I rocked up at the crag on my own, a big shout out to him!
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| Nearing the top of True North (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
Blog from 2015 attempts Blog from attempts last year
So, without rehashing what I have already written about, I will just add that this time around, I was very lucky in that the crag co-operated in kindly remaining bone dry from mid April until early June, a period of 8 weeks, which to North Buttress regulars is almost unheard of. Regular sessions on the route on saturday and sunday coupled with the fitness I had gained from my Malham stint soon resulted in me getting up to the last move again, a highpoint I had last reached in August last year. The whole season was ahead of me this time, which made a massive difference mentally. Knowing that there was plenty of time to finish the route off even if it got wet, only left the small matter of actually climbing it, easier said than done!
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| Hanging out on the last bolt of True North (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Reaching the 'eyes' on True North (Pic: Dale Comley) I reverted back to a sequence that Will Kelsall and Tim Palmer had told me about involving taking the crux crimp with my left hand and slapping straight for the sloper below the finishing jug with my right hand. Although this was a powerful slap, it had the merit of being quick, involving only 2 moves as opposed to my old method's 4, plus even fewer footmoves. I had tried this method last year but had discounted it as being too powerful. |
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| Steepening up! Stretching for the glued block on True North (Pic: Dale Comley) |
The first time I tried from the ground with the new method was way better than last year and I immediately knew this is the way it would go down. I had a very close couple of goes where I tickled the sloper twice on the day when Pete Dawson sent it first try (a totally awesome effort!!) I knew I would have a good chance the next saturday as long as the route was dry. After a final light session doing routes at Manchester Climbing Centre on Wednesday and 2 full rest days on Thursday and Friday, I headed to the crag on Saturday morning trying to keep focused.
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| Approaching the crux on Mandela 8a+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
On my first go, I felt really good, the best I have ever felt on the route. I was amazed to finally stick the sloper from the ground and thought surely, this is it! Unfortunately, I couldn't find the small, white toe hold needed to stand up and roll over to the finishing jug and I dropped off unexpectedly, utterly gutted! I forced myself to recompose and had 90 minutes rest. I went back to the car to keep warm and gather my thoughts. On the second go, I had in mind that I had done Something for Nothing on my second go of the day so knew it was possible. I didn't feel quite as good as my first try but soon found myself at the last move. I gave it everything I had and grunted my way up to the sloper again. This time there was no mistake and with the last ounce of energy I had left, I rolled over with my left hand into the jug, it was done!! I was ultra focused on the still tricky, balancy rockover shared with Urgent Action and then took my time on the final groove. Clipping the belay was a massive relief after the efforts of the last 4 years and brought to a close a big investment in the route. I was too far down the road to quit, the stuggle must continue to the bitter end!
Video of True North 8c
Over the last month, I have enjoyed briefly being project free at the crag. I ticked Mandela 8a+ the other week, which was a long term ambition of mine.
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| New project time! The lower crux of Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
I have also started to make inroads into my next project, Jerry Moffat's 'Progress' an 8c+ 10 meters to the left of True North. This one remains a lot drier than True North and perhaps suits my natural style a little better, being more fingery. Until next time and good luck on all your projects out there!
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| Powerful moves by the 4th bolt on Progress (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
Source: Spring in Yorkshire: Something for Nothing and True North (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 26, 2018, 01:01:35 am
Hi folks, its been a while since my last blog but having unfortunately fractured my heel bouldering at Burbage West two weeks ago, now seems a good time to round up the second half of my climbing year.
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| A long way to go! Starting up Cry Freedom on the link-up 'The Great Escape 8b+ Malham (Pic: John Thornton) |
Since I last blogged in June, I was psyched to move onto new projects after closing out True North and Something for Nothing and invested considerable effort over the summer into Progress 8c+ on Kilnsey's North Buttress, thirty foot to the left of True North. First, I ticked Mandela 8a+, a king line through the main overhang which I had wanted to do for years. It didn't disappoint!
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| Mandela 8a+, Kilnsey (Pic Kris Suriyo) |
Opening my Account on Progress 8c+
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| Working Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
Link on Progress 8c+, Kilnsey (from the ground to the 'Eyes' at the fifth bolt) (Video: Andy Tappa)
Attempts on Dalliance 8b+
While Progress was out of commission, I decided to first tick some routes I hadn't ever got round to trying on the impressive wall to the right of the corner of Balas. First I did the tricky Puppeteer 8a and its short extension, Drenka 8a+ and then managed to flash Neil McCallum's good new addition up the wall just to the right, Dark Stranger 8a.
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| The Puppeteer 8a, Kilnsey (Pic: James Turnbull) |
I then put my energies for the rest of August and September into some unfinished business from last year, the tricky Dave Pegg classic, Dalliance 8b+ (on the right hand end of the crag) as this stays drier for longer. I got close to doing this in August using my old sequence from last year of sticking my left heel way up and left on a spike and then slapping up into a big undercut. Unfortunately on one of my best goes my left hand ripped out of the undercut and I fell off backwards and inverted, painfully slamming my left shoulder into the rock. After lowering off, I realised that I was having trouble raising my arm above my head and sure enough, it stiffened up overnight and a lovely yellow, green and purple bruise appeared around my shoulder joint. A visit to my physio confirmed that I had torn some ligaments. I had to take a couple of weeks out to heal this up and by the time I got back on the rock, suddenly the season was rapidly running away.
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| Training on Comedy 7c, Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
Link on Dalliance 8b+, Kilnsey (from the upper rest to the top)
Peak Bouldering and Training at Malham
I had 2 weeks in Smith Rock booked to look forward to in the first two weeks of November to escape the wetness of the UK crags and was really looking forward to another crack at Just Do It 8c+ my project of the last 2 years.
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| Byker Groove V9 (Sean's Roof, Blackwell Dale, Peak District) |
After a long season at Kilnsey, I was conscious of the need to top up my bouldering for the savage V9 crimping crux on Just Do It as inevitably, if you predominantly climb routes for a long period, you will be lacking some top end power. I was getting out after work to the Peak a fair bit and had managed to do Ru's Traverse, a stout V11 at Griff's Buttress in Blackwell Dale at the end of June but was getting shut down by the next challenge at that crag, the burly Mutton Busting V11. I decided to drop the grade a little in order to get some ticks as some success is always good for the soul. Over July, August and September, I did Neil's Wall Sit V9, Byker Groove V9, Advanced Training V10, Alacrity Sit V9 and Converter V9, great training for the fingers and all enjoyable problems.
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| Alacrity Sit Start V9 (Cucklett Delph, Peak District) |
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| Cover to Cover 8b, Malham |
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| Cover to Cover 8b, Malham |
Getting into October and with even Malham starting to seep badly, it was time for some final training pitches. On a cold afternoon off work, I managed to do The Great Escape 8b+, a bit of a cop out link breaking out left into Predator before the final crux of Cry Freedom but nevertheless guaranteed to produce a good pump!
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| The Great Escape 8b+ Malham (Pic: John Thornton) |
Trip to Smith Rock
I was joined on the trip by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, who was keen to try Just Do It with me. It was great to head out there with another Brit to share beta and psyche after several solo missions. It had been 13 months since I had last tried the route in the autumn of 2016 when I was out here for a full month (see my blog from last year http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/project-updates-from-kilnsey-and-smith.html). I had done a lot of bouldering, training and routes since then so I was keen to see if I was any stronger on the route.
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| The upper crux of Just Do It 8c+ by the 15th bolt from an unusual angle (Pic: Jon Roderick) |
After a couple of days of re-familiarising the moves, I reclimbed some key links and started putting in some burns from the ground. Unfortunately, it was hellishly cold on a lot of the days we were up there, even when the infamous Monkey Face wind wasn't blowing a houlie. We even enlisted the help of a portable propane heater in an effort to bring some life to our freezing fingertips. Even when you managed to get warm enough to climb, you were so exhausted from the constant running up and down, star jumps and taking off 7 layers of clothing that by the time you got on the rock, you had likely already used up a lot of your energy reserves. Despite this, I was pleased to get up to the porthole rest by the 15th bolt three more times in total. On one go where I arrived at the crux with numb fingers and had to shout take, as I could no longer feel the holds(!), after the hot aches had subsided, I rested a few minutes on the rope then, after lowering down to the 12th bolt, went from there to the top (see video below). Sometimes, when things don't go to plan, this is just the filip that you need in order to try a new link.
Link on Just Do It 8c+ (from 12th bolt to the top)
Mina did really well on the route, quickly learning all of the complex moves and redpointing the lower part (8b) with ease on her 3rd day on. I have never climbed on this route other than on my first day on due to the rugged nature of the climbing on both the muscles and skin so this was a very impressive effort. She was doing some great links on the upper pitch in the purple rock and even found an alternative method on the reachy crux move involving a very crimpy undercut (Malham comes to Smith Rock!) but was very unlucky with some split tips. The extremely cold conditions were also not making it any easier for both of us. I'm sure she will be back with fresh skin and in wamer temps to seal the deal.
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| Mina on Aggro Monkey 5.13b (8a) |
On the last day after Mina had left, I had my best ever burn. I somehow got to the porthole feeling quite fresh, despite feeling tired on the lower pitch. I think relaxing and letting go is just what your mind needs at times on these long term projects. By subconsciously giving up the possibility of climbing the route, I tricked myself into getting through the V9 crimp crux below the porthole despite it being my second go of the session on my 7th day on the route in 14 days. I was surprised to feel my energy coming back like never before in the shake out. I think I even shook out too long (a full minute) as I was so used to having to stay there that long from previous redpoints in order to get any kind of recovery. I had a really good go at the upper crux where I got the gaston crimp for the left hand solidly for the first time and was pretty close to sticking the deep 2 finger pocket that marks the end of the really hard climbing.
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| Mina cruising on Churning in the Wake 5.13a (7c+) |
Having run out of time again, I left feeling encouraged that I had actually improved on the route in the preceding 12 months and will be back as soon as I can for another crack, hopefully with temperatures 20 degrees warmer!
Accident at Burbage
Sadly, the second weekend after I got back, on a bouldering outing to Peak gritstone with Pete Dawson, I fractured my talus bone (the small bone that the head of the tibia rests on) falling off the top moves of West Side Story, a classic font 7b+ at Burbage West. I have done the problem including the 3 move top out several times in the past so was possibly lulled into a false sense of security. It was one of those moments where I was probably more tired than I realised after a full session over at Burbage North and quite a few attempts to repeat Western Eyes. It was also a little damp in the air (not on the rock) and my right foot slipped on the foothold as I was standing up into the crimpy sidepull before reaching for the top of the crag.
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| Out the game! Fractured talus from fall off West Side Story (small fracture not really visible) |
I fell straight down with my feet on a level with the top jug of the boulder problem and unfortunately, the second pad was stacked on top of the first one in such a way as to create a downward slope which my right foot landed straight on. I rolled over on my ankle which dislocated and then popped back into joint after a couple of seconds. I initially thought I had got away with it as my foot wasn't swelling up too badly but an x ray and CT scan at Sheffield General A and E confirmed that I have got a small, non-displaced fractured of my talus bone near to the edge of the joint. I would like to say a massive thanks to Edale Mountain Rescue team who quickly attended the scene and stretchered me out in the dark. Without volunteers like these, we would all be in a much worse position when accidents strike.
Luckily, the fracture clinic at the Manchester Royal Infirmiary have confirmed that I don't need any screws putting in but will be non-weight bearing for 6 weeks and will no doubt need lots of physio thereafter to get back in action. Oh well, a timely reminder of the dangers of bouldering, take care out there! Now, time to get strong on the hangboard!
Attempt on In the Flick of Time Font 7c+ 1 hour before my fall (Burbage North, Peak District)
Source: Summer and Autumn round up (Yorkshire, the Peak and Smith Rock!) (http://)
Post by: comPiler on September 26, 2018, 01:00:21 pm
I've been back in Manchester for a few days now and have had a chance to reflect on my latest trip to Smith Rock. Flying back this time felt like the end of an era in some ways, complete with the usual jet lag and kipping on airport benches at 3am, good times! This was my 6th trip in 3 years to try Just Do It and I was aware that time was running out for completion of this project due to the pressures of keeping on trying a route so far away from my home. I said to myself at the start of the trip that it was important to get it done this time around so I could move on with my climbing and free up time and effort to sample some of the classics closer to home. I was lucky enough to have been given the option of staying out for a longer period of time before flying out due to my work circumstances so I had this up my sleeve.
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| The slap up to the 'sidepull sloper' on the upper crux (Screengrab: Nate Gerhardt) |
In the back of my mind was my talus fracture back in December and how well I would be climbing compared to previous trips. Luckily, on my first session up on the Monkey I quickly realised that I felt stronger than my last trip and my fitness was decent due to a recent spell at Malham and some indoor routes at Stockport Wall. I had also been lapping my replica of the route at Rockover Climbing Centre that Tom Stewart, the owner, had kindly let me set on their auto belay area. I had been adding ever increasing amounts of climbing going up and down different routes before shaking out on the first hold of the replica (a hold very similar to the big flat hold at the 13th bolt which marks the start of the upper cruxes in the purple rock) and then finishing up it, which I had never been able to do training on the same set up last year. So, just the small matter of climbing the real thing!
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| The lower crux in the purple rock (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
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| Approaching the porthole rest (Pic: Jason Bagby) |
This time I could feel that I had a bit more fitness in my arms from all the training over the winter and had a good stab at getting past the upper crux, another powerful V8 boulder problem. This sequence is more sustained than the crux before the porthole (comprising 8 hard moves in total) and the hardest 2 moves involve a powerful lock off and cross over from a 1st joint 2 finger pocket to a poor, gaston crimp and then holding this to then fire into another, better, 2 finger pocket. From this pocket, 4 slightly easier moves follow without rest before the relative sanctuary of the 'big, flat crimp' by the 16th bolt and the still tricky exit moves.
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| After sticking the upper crux for the first time from the ground (Pic: Steven Dimmitt) |
After a mini-heat wave of 80+F temps, I returned with Crit Concrad and managed to get a move higher, holding the sidepull sloper but not having quite enough power to get crimped up on it, which you need to do in order to execute the next throw to the 'big flat crimp'. Since failing on this move on the link from the 1st chains on my second session, I couldn't decide whether to move my feet 4 times using some intermediate footholds (which seemed to be less strenuous and more in balance) or to stick with my old foot sequence, which was only 2 foot moves and more powerful but quicker. I went with the former option and chanced introducing some new foot moves as these moves felt OK on the link from the porthole. Unfortunately, on my redpoint, I ended up stranded below the throw move with no hope of sticking it as I was too pumped to move my feet! I went for it anyway and took the ride with a new highpoint under my belt of 2 handmoves further up the wall, which was good progress nevertheless. The lesson I took from this was not to tinker with your sequence, best to stick with the devil you know!
The next session with Brady and Jenny Abegg proved to be a turning point and it was a rare occasion when the weather allowed me to take rest 2 days and then go back up for another session without having to wait for a longer hot spell to dissipate. In hindsight, I could have done it this session as I stuck the pocket stab move twice, which I had never done in a single session before. Unfortunately, I didn't get the second 2 finger pocket as well as I would have liked which left me short on the slap to the sidepull sloper so I didn't quite make my highpoint again.
I managed to steady the ship with a session sticking the pocket stab again with Mike Doyle on a session when he came super close to sending the East Face Crack 13d without clipping any of the fixed gear, taking an impressive fall in the process (he sent it with ease next session). However, I didn't make any impression on the slap to the sidepull sloper, which did nothing to ease my fears of having peaked too soon. I decided to try the 1st chains to the top link without lowering off after my second burn and after 10 mins hanging at the 1st chains. This link felt the easiest it had ever felt using my old, quicker foot sequence. I knew I was getting closer and it was only a matter of time.
I was destined to have one more close session and made the trek up there with Jon Roderick, who has been trying the East Face Crack and who I belayed on a very smooth ascent of the lower pitch (12c on trad), way to go Jon! This session, I failed on the pocket stab move twice, despite 2 full rest days so I was stressing out wondering whether I had lost the power needed for this move. However, the saving grace was another 1st chains to top link after 10 minutes rest following my second burn. Jon put up with me offloading a load of doubts about conditions and beta on the walk down, sorry Jon!
I would like to thank everybody who came up to the Monkey to belay me or offer support, it means a lot! Coming from the UK with no partner this time, I was relying on finding partners out here. The fact that I was able to keep coming up there for 6 weeks with not a single time when I had to skip a good day for lack of a partner is a testament to the awesome Smith Rock climbing community. A special mention to my friend Calvin Landrus who came out to belay me a tonne back in 2015 and 2016 but who has recently sadly contracted leukemia. I am happy to hear that the chemo has been going well and best of luck with the recovery.
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| The first 2 finger pocket move on the lower pitch (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
I was fully expecting to be able to rest 2 days then head back up to the Monkey and send but the weather had other plans. Another mini-heatwave rolled in and I was forced to train in the morning cool of Morning Glory Wall and Aggro Gully. This was no bad thing as I was able to reference my fitness on my favourite training routes such as Churning in the Wake 13a, Aggro Monkey 13b, Disposable Heroes 13a and The Quickening 12c. I even chucked a lap on Full Heinous Cling 12c in the Dihedrals, for old times sake ;). I clocked up 4 or 5 such sessions over 6 weeks and I think this helped me to avoid burnout. Still, it was not ideal having to wait more days than necessary when I was on the brink of success and there were times during the hot spell when I began to doubt whether it would ever cool off and I would get another chance. It was at such times that I found it important to stay focused and positive during the long hours away from the crags. Using the time productively was important as one of the problems of all the resting was how to keep your mind from constantly obsessing about the route, which could be counterproductive. I spent many happy hours in Redmond library reading classic novels like Jack Kerouac's 'On the Road' and Thomas Hardy's 'Return of the Native', books I will always associate with my time out in Oregon.
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| Just below the good rest above the 9th bolt, the chains of the first pitch just above (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
I had one abortive early morning session with Brady Kendrick getting up at 5am for a 6:45am start up on the Monkey to beat the heat. I shall always remember Brady pulling up in his truck and the whooping and hollering and 'Heck yea's' for no particular reason other than pure psyche as I cranked out some hangs on the Tension flashboard hung up in the parking lot while the coffee kicked in. This session was not a success as the entire route was in the sun by 8am before even one redpoint was possible, leading to an impromptu training session in the gully on the way back - at least we tried!
 |
| The stemming rest at the 9th bolt (Pic: Jenny Abegg) |
By the time temps cooled down, I had spent a week without any redpoints since my highpoint and was nervous about whether I would be able to get past the upper crux again. Probably the low point of the trip came after my first redpoint that first session back when I failed to get up to the porthole. To be honest I was gutted as I began to wonder whether I had burnt out and would ever regain my highpoint. A change of pace was in order and I elected not to have a second redpoint from the ground for once. I bolt to bolted up to the 9th bolt and then managed to do a link from there to the top, which was a massive confidence boost as it was one bolt better than the link I had been aiming for on my second session and a personal best in still warm conditions. It also involved climbing into and out of the main stemming rest above the 9th bolt. Every move felt the best it had ever felt and I had power in reserve at the chains. I needn't have worried about fluffing my previous redpoint and had turned the session around. The moves on small crimps leading to the porthole are so hard on the link from the ground that it is inevitable that you won't have a 100% strike rate. If you put your feet a few cm's left or right of the sweet spots on each foothold then you are liable to be spat off. Sometimes, redpoints don't go well purely down to the law of averages - you can't always climb at your best.
 |
| Big move at the 12th bolt (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
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| Focus required! Just below the 3 finger crimp on the 1st crux of the purple rock (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
The Monkey was still intent on testing me though as yet another 5 day heatwave rolled in with some pretty horrible, humid thunderstorms thrown into the mix. I made a tactical error of coming out one evening for a session to try and keep momentum going as I had rested 2 days already and felt really fresh. This was a mistake as I fell off the upper crux in really humid, warm conditions. Lesson number 2, don't bother trying things at your limit in bad conditions, rest up instead! In retrospect, I should have gone training at the gym in Bend or something, anything but try Just Do It!
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| Starting the upper crux: locking the first 2 finger pocket, about to crossover for the gaston (Screengrab: Nate Gerhardt) |
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| Crossover move from the 2 finger pocket on the upper crux (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015) |
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| The redpoint crux - stabbing into a 2 finger pocket off a small gaston crimp (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015) |
The weekend looked warm so I would only have one rest day before an attempt on Friday, which looked like half decent temps with the forecast saying 70 degrees. I scoured my contacts for a belayer and luckily Lukas Strauss-Wise agreed to come out at short notice on Friday night, which was a big ask. It felt warm in the air in the gully but hanging out there with my good friends Andrew Hunzicker and Nate Gerhardt helped to create a relaxed atmosphere. We could feel a warm breeze blowing down the gully and all agreed conditions felt good, despite the heat. I left it until the last possible moment to allow for one burn before sunset before hiking up to the Monkey. The initial bolt to bolt go felt good and I was psyched to have the chance for a decent attempt before resting through the heat of the weekend after which substantial rest I should then be in a position to have a full blooded go on Monday.
 |
| The big move to the sidepull sloper (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015) |
To my horror, I proceeded to fall of the move cranking a tiny right hand sidepull just above the 3rd bolt, a move I hadn't fallen off in over 2 years. I put it down to the relative heat then lowered off and rested 15 minutes, which is all the time there was left before it would start to get too dark to see footholds. Without any expectations, just before 8:30, I set off again and managed to slap through the sidepull move. I had extended the 8th draw on my previous session which enabled me to clip it from lower down in a position of balance and made it less strenuous. I arrived in the rest above the 9th bolt feeling fresh and for some reason started for the first time to alternate putting my weight over my right then left foot as I shook out each arm in turn, which I think helped. After my regulation 2 minutes shake, I set out up the familiar 12d section leading up to the 13th bolt shake. I realised I was feeling really good and so didn't stay more than a couple of shakes on this hold before attacking the next big move up and right leading into the crux crimps. I made it through these moves to the porthole with relief and then tried to calm my breathing down.
My send video. (Advisory, contains some slightly 'rum' language)
After 45 seconds and 2 shakes on each arm, I eyed up the upper crux then set off. One thing I had learnt on my previous session was to be sure of adjusting several times in the first 2 finger pocket to get it really well so I really twisted my fingers in deep and adjusted 4 times. Another key bit of micro beta was to do an old fashioned foot swap on the sika crimp on the cross over move to the gaston crimp rather than place your feet next to each other on this hold. My outside left foot came down on the foothold perfectly after the swap and I cranked up to the gaston. I fully crimped this and placed my right toe on the dicey smear. This time, I hit right in the back of the second 2 finger pocket and only needed one adjust before moving my feet up for the slap to the sidepull sloper. After a power grunt, I got more than enough height to get crimped up on the sloper using the crucial crystal at the top of the hold and before I knew it I was crimping the intermediate sidepull and moving my left foot out in readiness for the throw up to the big flat crimp. I went for it and my fingers latched the hold, I was in! The exit moves went on autopilot and the next thing I knew, I was shaking out in the final jug before the last moves 5.12 guarding the chains. Thankfully these went without incident and I was clipping the chains! It was a great feeling to put this project to bed and be able to fly back to the UK without any unfinished business for a change.
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| Post send pic (Pic: Lukas Strauss-Wise) |
Happy climbing out there and good luck with all of your projects!
 |
| Beers in Bend! |
Source: Just Do It! (http://)
Post by: comPiler on October 19, 2018, 01:03:00 am
Hi Folks, its been a little while since my last blog so I thought I would pen a few lines to let you know what I've been up to over the summer, now that it is but a distant memory! Since getting back from Oregon in early June, my objectives for the summer were to capitalise on fitness gained at Smith Rock to get stuck in to some projects from last year at my favourite crag in Yorkshire, the mighty Kilnsey!
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| The first crux on Progress - (Credit: Marc Langley) |
Dalliance 8b+
Next up was Progress 8c+ which is a considerably harder affair and one which I had invested many sessions in from May to July last year. I had got through to the redpoint crux above the 4th bolt and the 2 undercut 'eyes' quite a few times but had been shut down by the very powerful crux on flat sidepulls and pinches with poor foot smears that immediately follows. It must be 8b at least to get to the eyes so it is no small undertaking to crank your way up to a position where you can challenge the redpoint crux. This year, after a good start refreshing the moves and doing some good links from the 3rd bolt to the top, the heatwave struck in July.
 |
| By the first bolt on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
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| Another view of the first crux on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
Bouldering at Griff's Buttress, Blackwell Dale
By the time September rolled around (or is that Sendtember!) thankfully connies were much cooler and I surprised myself by getting up to the eyes 3 times in a session, which made clear how vital cool conditions are on this line. I re-engineered my beta on the redpoint crux to a higher step up with the feet which seemed to make the move a little more manageable from the ground.  |
| About to clip the 3rd bolt on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
 |
| Sticking the redpoint crux on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
My best attempt on Progress
Source: Kilnsey Progress Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on January 28, 2019, 01:02:11 am
Hi guys just thought I would pen a few words about my recent 11 day trip to Suirana in Catalunya, Spain. I headed out on Boxing Day and arrived in the campsite late that night after a full day's travelling from Exeter that morning! I had rather optimistically decided to camp this trip but did not fully appreciate how cold it was going to be. My sleeping bag was a 4 season down one but was totally outclassed by the bone chilling cold experienced. Luckily some friends lent me a duvet and in combo with about 5 layers of clothing, it was doable. It was good to go back to basics and suffer a bit, makes you appreciate the finer things in life back home! Mucking in to cook in the miniscule cooking area every morning and night with all the fellow climbers was a good experience. Many a tuna/ pasta surprise was concocted in the cramped quarters to replenish diminished glycogen reserves.
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| Migranya 8b - Credit: Charlie Egan |
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| The crux traverse on Migranya |
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| Migranya - the crux |
Video of Migranya
I had been close to getting through the crux move before New Year but a heel toe cam for my right foot seemed to be holding me back on the sloper move and I would always fall just short of sticking the next move. After a rethink, I decided to just use a heel rather than a cam as well and bingo, it worked. I stuck the crux and swung my way to the shakeout below the halfway roof. After a minute shaking out, I embarked on the still tricky exit moves which involve a crank on a 2 finger pocket and a dicey stab to a powerful gaston for the left hand. Thankfully, my time spent working the links on this section was not wasted and I got through this section to clip the chains. I was a good feeling to get this one ticked and be project free for a while.
 | ||
Post send on Migranya
|
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| Outback 7c+, Sector Negociee Credit: Buster Martin |
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| Sectors El Pati and Primavera |
 | ||
| Pota d'Elephant 7c+ That evening in the bar, it was nice to hang out with the Brits I was lucky enough to spend time with this trip and sip a few beers. There was a good crew out this year, all supportive of each other and their projects, which is one of the awesome parts of trips like this.
|
Source: New Year Trip to Suirana (http://)
Post by: comPiler on January 28, 2019, 07:00:15 pm
Hi guys just thought I would pen a few words about my recent 11 day trip to Suirana in Catalunya, Spain. I headed out on Boxing Day and arrived in the campsite late that night after a full day's travelling from Exeter via Liverpool airport that morning! I had rather optimistically decided to camp this trip but did not fully appreciate how cold it was going to be. My sleeping bag was a 4 season down one but was totally outclassed by the bone chilling cold experienced. Luckily some friends lent me a duvet and in combo with about 5 layers of clothing, it was doable. It was good to go back to basics and suffer a bit, makes you appreciate the finer things in life back home! Mucking in to cook in the miniscule cooking area every morning and night with all the fellow climbers was a good experience. Many a tuna/ pasta surprise was concocted in the cramped quarters to replenish diminished glycogen reserves.
|
| Migranya 8b - Credit: Charlie Egan |
|
| The crux traverse on Migranya |
|
| Migranya - the crux |
Video of Migranya
I had been close to getting through the crux move before New Year but a heel toe cam for my right foot seemed to be holding me back on the sloper move and I would always fall just short of sticking the next move. After a rethink, I decided to just use a heel rather than a cam as well and bingo, it worked. I stuck the crux and swung my way to the shakeout below the halfway roof. After a minute shaking out, I embarked on the still tricky exit moves which involve a crank on a 2 finger pocket and a dicey stab to a powerful gaston for the left hand. Thankfully, my time spent working the links on this section was not wasted and I got through this section to clip the chains. I was a good feeling to get this one ticked and be project free for a while.
| ||
Post send on Migranya
|
|
| Outback 7c+, Sector Negociee Credit: Buster Martin |
|
| Sectors El Pati and Primavera |
| ||
| Pota d'Elephant 7c+ That evening in the bar, it was nice to hang out with the Brits I was lucky enough to spend time with this trip and sip a few beers. There was a good crew out this year, all supportive of each other and their projects, which is one of the awesome parts of trips like this.
|
Source: New Year Trip to Suirana (http://)
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2020, 01:00:59 am
Hi folks, its a been a while since my last post but here goes with a little update for you. Like everybody else, its been tough during this pandemic without access to any climbing walls to train properly. Still, I've made the best of it and after a lockdown spent on my beastmaker and rudimentary sideways campus workout above my balcony door (!) I finally managed to make it out to the nearest local crags I could find to get back to rock climbing.
Learning the climb in the mid 90's, I first started out trad climbing in quarries such as the Wiltons, Denham, Anglesarke, Parbold and Brownstones and it has been fun going back to these places with over 20 years's of experience and fresh eyes. It has been a bit of a trip down memory lane at times thinking back to old days out. But enough of the past, with no board to train on, I was sorely in need of some steep athletic bouldering to shock the system and introduce some dynamic moves into what had become quite a formulaic experience doing max hangs and pullups every few days.
I have managed to document a large proportion of the problems I have climbed over the last 3 months since lockdown ended in Lancashire since purchasing the excellent bouldering guidebook by Robin Mueller. I started out going out tentatively as lockdown gave you a wierd feeling that maybe you shouldn't be going out but at the end of the day Boris had given exercising in the outdoors the nod as had the BMC so it was fair game. As the Peak District was off the agenda initially as we were meant to be staying local, I stuck with Lancashire and I'm glad I did. It has been refreshing to not have more than 35 - 40 mins of driving to do compared to over an hour going to the Peak or even longer to North Wales or Yorkshire. It brought it home to me how much driving I have actually done over the years in pursuit of this sport!
My ticklist of climbs over Font 7C post lockdown is below and I was psyched to get a first ascent of a sit start to one of Mike Adam's 7C+'s at Parbold 'Danger Dusk', which I named 'Danger! High Voltage', which I have given 8A (repeats needed to confirm). The name is something of a misnomer as there is no danger involved as its finishes at around 12 foot up matching on the last hold before the wall blanks out above.
Font 8A
Rhamnousa Sitter (Wilton 4) (SECOND ASCENT)
Danger! High Voltage (Parbold Quarry) (FIRST ASCENT)
Font 7C+
Nemesister (Wilton 4)
Rhamnousa (Wilton 4)
Danger Dusk (Parbold Quarry)
Font 7C
Clinton Barton (Cadshaw Quarry) (SECOND ASCENT)
Copernicus (Cadshaw Quarry)
Laminar Flow (Wilton 2)
The Starship Wilton Direct (Wilton 3)
Nemesis (Wilton 4)
Meeting Palms (Ousel's Nest)
No Tome for Losers (Baby Denham)
Legs Not Included (Healey Nab)
Dawid's Reach (Lester Mill Quarry)
Blister (Lester Mill Quarry)
Grasshopper LH (Stronstrey Bank) (FIRST ASCENT)
The Noisy Cricket (Stronstrey Bank)
Hellebore Sit (Stronstrey Bank)
Here are some of the best video's I have put together from my Lancashire sessions, there are more on my Youtube Channel, I hope you enjoy!
Its been awesome to be able to get some of that bouldering snap back climbing in what has been an exceptionally dry spring (although at the time of writing it is at risk of degenerating into a soggy summer! Having not trained on a 45 degree board for over 3 months I was worried that my power levels and technique on steep rock might have suffered but getting out regularly to the quarries, I have been surprised that I actually feel perhaps stronger than ever on real rock. There is really no substitute for trying hard on real outdoor problems and you get a real sense of momentum with a few ticks under your belt. The moonboard can wait!
Now for the tough transition back to outdoor routing. I have been back at Kilnsey since this was permitted back in May and not having tied in since my trip to Margalef over New Year over 4 months previously, 50 for 5 felt way too pumpy at first. Happily, stamina has now come back to a semblance of what it was and I'm getting stuck back in to Progress, my project on North Buttress which I got close on last year. Lets pray for a dry July and August on UK crags seeing as nobody will be jetting off to the continent just yet - have fun out there!
Stronstrey Bank sunset
Source: Lancashire Bouldering Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2020, 01:00:03 pm
Hi folks, its a been a while since my last post but here goes with a little update for you. Like everybody else, its been tough during this pandemic without access to any climbing walls to train properly. Still, I've made the best of it and after a lockdown spent on my beastmaker and rudimentary sideways campus workout above my balcony door (!) I finally managed to make it out to the nearest local crags I could find to get back to rock climbing.
Learning the climb in the mid 90's, I first started out trad climbing in quarries such as the Wiltons, Denham, Anglesarke, Parbold and Brownstones and it has been fun going back to these places with over 20 years experience and fresh eyes. It has been a bit of a trip down memory lane at times thinking back to old days out. But enough of the past, with no board to train on, I was sorely in need of some steep athletic bouldering to shock the system and introduce some dynamic moves into what had become quite a formulaic experience doing max hangs and pullups every few days.
I have managed to get on video quite a few of the problems I have climbed over the last 3 months since lockdown ended in Lancashire since purchasing the excellent bouldering guidebook by Robin Mueller. I started out going out tentatively as lockdown had given a wierd feeling that maybe you shouldn't be going out but at the end of the day Boris had given exercising in the outdoors the nod as had the BMC so it was fair game. As the Peak District was off the agenda initially as we were meant to be staying local, I stuck with Lancashire and I'm glad I did. It has been refreshing to not have more than 35 - 40 mins of driving to do compared to over an hour going to the Peak or even longer to North Wales or Yorkshire. It brought it home to me how much driving I have actually done over the years in pursuit of this sport!
My ticklist of climbs over Font 7C post lockdown is below and I was psyched to get a first ascent of a sit start to a Mike Adams 7C+ at Parbold 'Danger Dusk', which I named 'Danger! High Voltage', which I have given 8A (repeats needed to confirm). The name is something of a misnomer as there is no danger involved as its finishes at around 12 foot up matching on the last hold before the wall blanks out above.
Font 8A
Rhamnousa Sitter (Wilton 4) (SECOND ASCENT)
Danger! High Voltage (Parbold Quarry) (FIRST ASCENT)
Font 7C+
Nemesister (Wilton 4)
Rhamnousa (Wilton 4)
Danger Dusk (Parbold Quarry)
Font 7C
Clinton Barton (Cadshaw Quarry) (SECOND ASCENT)
Copernicus (Cadshaw Quarry)
Laminar Flow (Wilton 2)
The Starship Wilton Direct (Wilton 3)
Nemesis (Wilton 4)
Meeting Palms (Ousel's Nest)
No Tome for Losers (Baby Denham)
Legs Not Included (Healey Nab)
Dawid's Reach (Lester Mill Quarry)
Blister (Lester Mill Quarry)
Grasshopper LH (Stronstrey Bank) (FIRST ASCENT)
The Noisy Cricket (Stronstrey Bank)
Hellebore Sit (Stronstrey Bank)
Here are some of the best video's I have put together from my Lancashire sessions, there are more on my Youtube Channel, I hope you enjoy!
Its been awesome to be able to get some of that bouldering snap back climbing in what has been an exceptionally dry spring (although at the time of writing it is at risk of degenerating into a soggy summer! Having not trained on a 45 degree board for over 3 months I was worried that my power levels and technique on steep rock might have suffered but getting out regularly to the quarries, I have been surprised that I actually feel perhaps stronger than ever on real rock. There is really no substitute for trying hard on real outdoor problems and you get a real sense of momentum with a few ticks under your belt. The moonboard can wait!
Now for the tough transition back to outdoor routing. I have been back at Kilnsey since this was permitted back in May and not having tied in since my trip to Margalef over New Year over 4 months previously, 50 for 5 felt way too pumpy at first. Happily, stamina has now come back to a semblance of what it was and I'm getting stuck back in to Progress, my project on North Buttress which I got close on last year. Lets pray for a dry July and August on UK crags seeing as nobody will be jetting off to the continent just yet - have fun out there!
Stronstrey Bank sunset
Source: Lancashire Bouldering Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on July 01, 2020, 01:05:17 am
Hi folks, its a been a while since my last post but here goes with a little update for you. Like everybody else, its been tough during this pandemic without access to any climbing walls to train properly. Still, I've made the best of it and after a lockdown spent on my beastmaker and rudimentary sideways campus workout above my balcony door (!) I finally managed to make it out to the nearest local crags I could find to get back to rock climbing.
Learning to climb in the mid 90's, I first started out trad climbing in quarries such as the Wiltons, Denham, Anglesarke, Parbold and Brownstones and it has been fun going back to these places with over 20 years experience and fresh eyes. It has been a bit of a trip down memory lane at times thinking back to old days out. But enough of the past, with no board to train on, I was sorely in need of some steep athletic bouldering to shock the system and introduce some dynamic moves into what had become quite a formulaic experience doing max hangs and pullups every few days.
I have managed to get on video quite a few of the problems I have climbed over the last 3 months since lockdown ended in Lancashire since purchasing the excellent bouldering guidebook by Robin Mueller. I started out going out tentatively as lockdown had given a wierd feeling that maybe you shouldn't be going out but at the end of the day Boris had given exercising in the outdoors the nod as had the BMC so it was fair game. As the Peak District was off the agenda initially as we were meant to be staying local, I stuck with Lancashire and I'm glad I did. It has been refreshing to not have more than 35 - 40 mins of driving to do compared to over an hour going to the Peak or even longer to North Wales or Yorkshire. It brought it home to me how much driving I have actually done over the years in pursuit of this sport!
My ticklist of climbs over Font 7C post lockdown is below and I was psyched to get a first ascent of a sit start to a Mike Adams 7C+ at Parbold 'Danger Dusk', which I named 'Danger! High Voltage', which I have given 8A (repeats needed to confirm). The name is something of a misnomer as there is no danger involved as its finishes at around 12 foot up matching on the last hold before the wall blanks out above.
Font 8A
Rhamnousa Sitter (Wilton 4) (SECOND ASCENT)
Danger! High Voltage (Parbold Quarry) (FIRST ASCENT)
Font 7C+
Nemesister (Wilton 4)
Rhamnousa (Wilton 4)
Danger Dusk (Parbold Quarry)
Font 7C
Clinton Barton (Cadshaw Quarry) (SECOND ASCENT)
Copernicus (Cadshaw Quarry)
Laminar Flow (Wilton 2)
The Starship Wilton Direct (Wilton 3)
Nemesis (Wilton 4)
Meeting Palms (Ousel's Nest)
No Tome for Losers (Baby Denham)
Legs Not Included (Healey Nab)
Dawid's Reach (Lester Mill Quarry)
Blister (Lester Mill Quarry)
Grasshopper LH (Stronstrey Bank) (FIRST ASCENT)
The Noisy Cricket (Stronstrey Bank)
Hellebore Sit (Stronstrey Bank)
Here are some of the best video's I have put together from my Lancashire sessions, there are more on my Youtube Channel, I hope you enjoy!
Its been awesome to be able to get some of that bouldering snap back climbing in what has been an exceptionally dry spring (although at the time of writing it is at risk of degenerating into a soggy summer! Having not trained on a 45 degree board for over 3 months I was worried that my power levels and technique on steep rock might have suffered but getting out regularly to the quarries, I have been surprised that I actually feel perhaps stronger than ever on real rock. There is really no substitute for trying hard on real outdoor problems and you get a real sense of momentum with a few ticks under your belt. The moonboard can wait!
Now for the tough transition back to outdoor routing. I have been back at Kilnsey since this was permitted back in May and not having tied in since my trip to Margalef over New Year over 4 months previously, 50 for 5 felt way too pumpy at first. Happily, stamina has now come back to a semblance of what it was and I'm getting stuck back in to Progress, my project on North Buttress which I got close on last year. Lets pray for a dry July and August on UK crags seeing as nobody will be jetting off to the continent just yet - have fun out there!
Stronstrey Bank sunset
Source: Lancashire Bouldering Update (http://)
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2020, 11:24:41 pm
Post by: comPiler on July 02, 2020, 01:03:59 am
Hi folks, its a been a while since my last post but here goes with a little update for you. Like everybody else, its been tough during this pandemic without access to any climbing walls to train properly. Still, I've made the best of it and after a lockdown spent on my beastmaker and rudimentary sideways campus workout above my balcony door (!) I finally managed to make it out to the nearest local crags I could find to get back to rock climbing.
Learning to climb in the mid 90's, I first started out trad climbing in quarries such as the Wiltons, Denham, Anglesarke, Parbold and Brownstones and it has been fun going back to these places with over 20 years experience and fresh eyes. It has been a bit of a trip down memory lane at times thinking back to old days out. But enough of the past, with no board to train on, I was sorely in need of some steep athletic bouldering to shock the system and introduce some dynamic moves into what had become quite a formulaic experience doing max hangs and pullups every few days.
I have managed to get on video quite a few of the problems I have climbed over the last 3 months since lockdown ended in Lancashire since purchasing the excellent bouldering guidebook by Robin Mueller. I started out going out tentatively as lockdown had given a wierd feeling that maybe you shouldn't be going out but at the end of the day Boris had given exercising in the outdoors the nod as had the BMC so it was fair game. As the Peak District was off the agenda initially as we were meant to be staying local, I stuck with Lancashire and I'm glad I did. It has been refreshing to not have more than 35 - 40 mins of driving to do compared to over an hour going to the Peak or even longer to North Wales or Yorkshire. It brought it home to me how much driving I have actually done over the years in pursuit of this sport!
My ticklist of climbs over Font 7C post lockdown is below and I was psyched to get a first ascent of a sit start to a Mike Adams 7C+ at Parbold 'Danger Dusk', which I named 'Danger! High Voltage', which I have given 8A (repeats needed to confirm). The name is something of a misnomer as there is no danger involved as its finishes at around 12 foot up matching on the last hold before the wall blanks out above.
Font 8A
Rhamnousa Sitter (Wilton 4) (SECOND ASCENT)
Danger! High Voltage (Parbold Quarry) (FIRST ASCENT)
Font 7C+
Nemesister (Wilton 4)
Rhamnousa (Wilton 4)
Danger Dusk (Parbold Quarry)
Font 7C
Clint Barton (Cadshaw Quarry) (SECOND ASCENT)
Copernicus (Cadshaw Quarry)
Laminar Flow (Wilton 2)
The Starship Wilton Direct (Wilton 3)
Nemesis (Wilton 4)
Meeting Palms (Ousel's Nest)
No Tome for Losers (Baby Denham)
Legs Not Included (Healey Nab)
Dawid's Reach (Lester Mill Quarry)
Blister (Lester Mill Quarry)
Grasshopper LH (Stronstrey Bank) (FIRST ASCENT)
The Noisy Cricket (Stronstrey Bank)
Hellebore Sit (Stronstrey Bank)
Here are some of the best video's I have put together from my Lancashire sessions, there are more on my Youtube Channel, I hope you enjoy!
Its been awesome to be able to get some of that bouldering snap back climbing in what has been an exceptionally dry spring (although at the time of writing it is at risk of degenerating into a soggy summer!) Having not trained on a 45 degree board for over 3 months I was worried that my power levels and technique on steep rock might have suffered but getting out regularly to the quarries, I have been surprised that I actually feel perhaps stronger than ever on real rock. There is really no substitute for trying hard on real outdoor problems and you get a real sense of momentum with a few ticks under your belt. The moonboard can wait!
Now for the tough transition back to outdoor routing. I have been back at Kilnsey since this was permitted back in May and not having tied in since my trip to Margalef over New Year over 4 months previously, 50 for 5 felt way too pumpy at first. Happily, stamina has now come back to a semblance of what it was and I'm getting stuck back in to Progress, my project on North Buttress which I got close on last year. Lets pray for a dry July and August on UK crags seeing as nobody will be jetting off to the continent just yet - have fun out there!
Stronstrey Bank sunset
Source: Lancashire Bouldering Update (http://)
Post by: SA Chris on July 02, 2020, 10:22:43 am
I read all three copies because, let's face it, it's hard not get carried along with Ted's enthusiasm!
Fourth time's the charm.
Post by: comPiler on December 12, 2020, 01:00:17 pm
I hope you're all making the best of the changes this year has brought to our climbing and training plans. I like many others have had to forego the usual plans to visit Spain and Font around this time of year but never fear, now a vaccine has been found, with any luck we'll all be able to get back out there sooner rather than later.
 |
| Progress 8c+ (lower crux) attempt from 2018 (Credit: Richard Waterton) |
The silver lining of the confinement of many of us to UK crags has been the increased focus on home projects. Over the summer, I made some big efforts to get Progress at Kilnsey done but it has eluded me for another year due to the late start in June and some predictably wet late summer connies. Still, I can take comfort from some positives in that I found some improved and more efficient beta and even a new rest by the 6th bolt which I had previously discounted which may prove to be the key to unlocking the world of pump which this rig turns into once you get beyond the 'eyes' which is the first staging post at the 5th bolt. Here is a video of my best attempt (not using the new rest) back in August which was only 5 hand moves off my previous year's high point just shy of the 8th bolt. I was more consistent this year, getting the 7th bolt clipped on around 5 or more occassions before the traverse right to the 8th where the climbing finally starts to ease. Roll on next year for some more attempts, the siege continues!
My best attempt on Progress 8c+ in August
Once Progress got wet, I decided to investigate Northern Exposure, the short Steve Dunning 8b+ to the left, which I believe has not had an ascent since Adam Ondra's back in 2011 as part of Northern Star 9a/+ despite some attempts over the years. Rumours of broken holds abounded but I was stoked to find that its still possible and that a slightly crumbled sidepull by the 3rd bolt does not affect the clip or crux moves significantly. I put some good burns into this thing and got close but again was foiled by the approaching end of the season and some persistently wet pockets. I tried my best to dry them with kitchen roll but my increasingly desparate attempts to eke out further redpoints had to face reality at the end of October. Here is a clip of my best go - I have since found better beta which makes the sequence higher percentage than the jump method I was using. Again, bring on next season for a continuation of the campaign!
My closest go on Northern Exposure 8b+ in September
Happily, the season was to yield some success for me in the form of Power Ranger 8b+ at Malham, Tony Mitchell's quality extension to Wasted Youth 7b+. I had tried this off and on for the last 2 years whenever I went to the Cove but never with any consistency as I was always so engaged with Progress. This year, I devoted some more sustained attempts to it once Progress got wet and was rewarded with the discovery of an improved sequence through the crux bulge and a good kneebar resting strategy at the Wasted Youth belay which was the key to doing it in a oner. Eder showed me another kneebar just before the move over the bulge where it is just possible to take your hands off if you have a core of steel (!) but this was actually more useful to clip the crux draw off of rather than rest. (Its a pain wearing 2 pads climbing but worth it if you can get up it!) Several redpoints battered the route into submission slowly and it was a rewarding moment to be embarking on the upper wall knowing that all I had to do was avoid fluffing these still tricky 7b+ moves before reaching the final hands off scoop up and right of the final bolt where the route finishes. Here is my video of the send go:
Power Ranger 8b+ in October
The route did not have a proper lower off so I decided to sort this out as there is nothing worse than a route without a clearly defined end point. So I went back with Jim and slammed a new belay into the scoop (as well as sorting out the position of the Connect 4 belay and crux clip). I also went back on a second occasion to rebolt Snidely Whiplash 7a+ which will form a logical continuation to Power Ranger leading to the top ledge for any psyched future candidate! No extra grade for this project but the kudos of taking the route to the top like on Overjustified to the left. I even spotted a gap to the right of Snidely which I equipped and which will start from the new Power Ranger belay - one for next year. I'm pleased to have found my first UK new route project that I bolted myself, it might be 7a+ or impossible, time will tell. It may be in a fairly inaccessible location requiring an abseil approach but its still new rock waiting to be climbed, can't wait to try it in 2021!
 |
| Finishing the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
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| Another view of the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
 |
| Post send pic (Credit: Simon Durbridge) |
I leave you some thoughts on with my current project at the Tor, Devolution 8c. Here is a vid of my best link go starting from both feet in the lower break and one hand on the block. I have decided to divert my energies into trying this rather than Evolution as the lower roof is so hard (around Font 8A from the ground) that even getting over this is proving to be a major challenge, never mind linking into the top 8b wall! Its worth being realistic at a certain point and its been fun focusing on the roof alone this year with the comparitively easy top wall of Chimes (up which this link finishes) not adding too much to the grade equation. I've been battling with a split tip since doing this link in November and getting some good redpoints in from the ground. Now even this has got wet, it could be time to train!
Devolution 8c , Raven Tor - best link go
So, keep up the psyche and crushing on home turf. There will be plenty of opportunity to head out to the promised land of Espana or Font I hope in the time ahead! Source: Power Ranger 8b+ and Projects Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on December 12, 2020, 07:00:31 pm
I hope you're all making the best of the changes this year has brought to our climbing and training plans. I like many others have had to forego the usual plans to visit Spain and Font around this time of year but never fear, now a vaccine has been found, with any luck we'll all be able to get back out there sooner rather than later.
|
| Progress 8c+ (lower crux) attempt from 2018 (Credit: Richard Waterton) |
The silver lining of the confinement of many of us to UK crags has been the increased focus on home projects. Over the summer, I made some big efforts to get Progress at Kilnsey done but it has eluded me for another year due to the late start in June and some predictably wet late summer connies. Still, I can take comfort from some positives in that I found some improved and more efficient beta and even a new rest by the 6th bolt which I had previously discounted which may prove to be the key to unlocking the world of pump which this rig turns into once you get beyond the 'eyes' which is the first staging post at the 5th bolt. Here is a video of my best attempt (not using the new rest) back in August which was only 5 hand moves off my previous year's high point just shy of the 8th bolt. I was more consistent this year, getting the 7th bolt clipped on around 5 or more occasions before the traverse right to the 8th where the climbing finally starts to ease. Roll on next year for some more attempts, the siege continues!
My best attempt on Progress 8c+ in August
Once Progress got wet, I decided to investigate Northern Exposure, the short Steve Dunning 8b+ to the left, which I believe has not had an ascent since Adam Ondra's back in 2011 as part of Northern Star 9a/+ despite some attempts over the years. Rumours of broken holds abounded but I was stoked to find that its still possible and that a slightly crumbled sidepull by the 3rd bolt does not affect the clip or crux moves significantly. I put some good burns into this thing and got close but again was foiled by the approaching end of the season and some persistently wet pockets. I tried my best to dry them with kitchen roll but my increasingly desparate attempts to eke out further redpoints had to face reality at the end of October. Here is a clip of my best go - I have since found better beta which makes the sequence higher percentage than the jump method I was using. Again, bring on next season for a continuation of the campaign!
My closest go on Northern Exposure 8b+ in September
Happily, the season was to yield some route success for me in the form of Power Ranger 8b+ at Malham, Tony Mitchell's quality extension to Wasted Youth 7b+. I had tried this off and on for the last 2 years whenever I went to the Cove but never with any consistency as I was always so engaged with Progress. This year, I devoted some more sustained attempts to it once Progress got wet and was rewarded with the discovery of an improved sequence through the crux bulge and a good kneebar resting strategy at the Wasted Youth belay which was the key to doing it in a oner. Eder showed me another kneebar just before the move over the bulge where it is just possible to take your hands off if you have a core of steel (!) but this was actually more useful to clip the crux draw off of rather than rest. (Its a pain wearing 2 pads climbing but worth it if you can get up it!) Several redpoints battered the route into submission slowly and it was a rewarding moment to be embarking on the upper wall knowing that all I had to do was avoid fluffing these still tricky 7b+ moves before reaching the final hands off scoop up and right of the final bolt where the route finishes. Here is my video of the send go:
Power Ranger 8b+ in October
The route did not have a proper lower off so I decided to sort this out as there is nothing worse than a route without a clearly defined end point. So I went back with Jim and slammed a new belay into the scoop (as well as sorting out the position of the Connect 4 belay and crux clip). I also went back on a second occasion to rebolt Snidely Whiplash 7a+ which will form a logical continuation to Power Ranger leading to the top ledge for any psyched future candidate! No extra grade for this project but the kudos of taking the route to the top like on Overjustified to the left. I even spotted a gap to the right of Snidely which I equipped and which will start from the new Power Ranger belay - one for next year. I'm pleased to have found my first UK new route project that I bolted myself, it might be 7a+ or impossible, time will tell. It may be in a fairly inaccessible location requiring an abseil approach but its still new rock waiting to be climbed, can't wait to try it in 2021!
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| Finishing the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
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| Another view of the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
|
| Post send pic (Credit: Simon Durbridge) |
I leave you with some thoughts on my current project at the Tor, Devolution 8c. Here is a vid of my best link go starting from both feet in the lower break and one hand on the block. I have decided to divert my energies into trying this rather than Evolution as the lower roof is so hard (around Font 8A from the ground) that even getting over this is proving to be a major challenge, never mind linking into the top 8b wall! Its worth being realistic at a certain point and its been fun focusing on the roof alone this year with the comparitively easy top wall of Chimes (up which this link finishes) not adding too much to the grade equation. I've been battling with a split tip since doing this link in November and getting some good redpoints in from the ground. Now even this has got wet, it could be time to train!
Devolution 8c , Raven Tor - best link go
So, keep up the psyche and crushing on home turf. There will be plenty of opportunity to head out to the promised land of Espana or Font I hope in the time ahead! Source: Power Ranger 8b+ and Projects Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on July 15, 2021, 01:00:08 pm
Having recently climbed my 5 year project last month, Progress at Kilnsey, I have just been re-reading my previous blog posts about the route, which become something of a nemesis. Starting in 2017, they follow the process up until last year in some detail - hopefully useful to those planning their own campaign!
 |
| Reaching the 'Eyes' by the 5th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) |
Success this year came from a number of factors, not least of which was the discovery of a new kneebar by the 6th bolt by Eder Lomba Lopez de Ipiña. I initially discounted this as I was so used to climbing quickly through the pumpy redpoint crux moves between the 6th and 8th bolts without even stopping to chalk and had done my 2nd bolt to top links in this manner. I also was concerned that the 4 extra handmoves required to climb into and out of the kneebar would add in more time on the rock and extra pump, despite the new opportunity to rest. However, after speaking to Josh Ibbertson who kindly shared his strategy with the kneebar (having sent the route the week previously), it became clear that it would be possible to climb straight into the long move up from the 6th bolt straight out of the kneebar cutting out some of these extra footmoves. Therefore, on balance, it was a no brainer for me to use the new rest. Why ignore a perfectly good kneebar?! My Youtube video of the climb (below) shows the discovery of the kneebar for any aspirant ascentionists:
Video of the route
Another factor in getting over the line this year was building my own board in January during the last lockdown. In February and March, I set some pretty savage problems on dowel pinches and basic birch ply grips which certainly helped to maintain power levels while the walls were closed. Once I got back on the route in late April, I was initially worried that I hadn't got the strength for the crux as I couldn't do the moves from the floor but this was just a lack of recruitment and just like last year, after a few sessions back on the rig, the muscle memory kicked in and all my board training paid off. Before long, I was climbing back up to the eyes by the 5th bolt, an 'entry level' link which is pretty much mandatory prior to getting in some proper redpoint burns. Shortly after this, the crag got one of its regular drenchings and North Buttress was out of commission for a couple of weeks in May with some unseasonably cold weather to boot.
 |
| Starting the crux at the 2nd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) As soon as June rolled around, I got back into gear and with the arrival of warmer weather, managed to do the 3rd to top link and could feel the project coming together. I was about to go for the 2nd to top link after 2 rest days as it was quite warm but a crag regular persuaded me to go from the floor instead. I'm glad I did as I got up to just below the 7th bolt before I even knew about the new kneebar - it was on! Shortly after this good go, the 6th bolt kneebar was discovered and after commiting to using it, I experimented with different rest times to allow for optimal recovery. From the 6th bolt to the top is about 8a I would say but you have already climbed 8b+/8c to get there so you will not have much left in the tank...unless you are ultrafit and/or strong! On a really good go which was filmed by Marsha Balaeva (starting at 6:05 in my video) after one rest day, I managed my second best ever go from the ground in excellent, breezy conditions getting to just below the 8th bolt before the terminal pump kicked in and I was summarily ejected from the rock! |
 | ||
| Tough moves at the 3rd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) Of course, there is no direct comparision to my high point in 2019 when I reached 2 moves further (but without the kneebar) as the route is now undoubtedly more manageable with the new shakeout for those able to reach the 6th bolt. I guess I will never get to find out if I could climb it without the kneebar and get the satifaction of smashing through my old highpoint. However, this is tempered with the realisation that I had discovered a new shakeout at the end of the season last year at the 6th bolt at exactly the same place as the kneebar (see my post from last year) which allows a similar recovery for the right arm, allowing you to refresh it for the long move. So, in reality I would never have adopted my 'extreme sprint' approach (with only one chalk of each hand at the eyes) again which made getting the perfect go with the required minimum 2 rest days and decent conditions very tricky indeed. I am happy to have ticked the route using the knee which allows me to move on and do some much needed new climbing. Regarding the grade, comparing it to others around this difficulty level, I am confident that the kneebar, whilst making the route more approachable, does not bring the route down to 8c, just a little lower in the 8c+ grade.
After my close go, I rested up 2 days and was confident of taking it down but was torn as to whether to go for it as it was pretty warm and lacking a decent breeze, or come back the following day when conditions would be likely better. Luckily Adam Lincoln convinced me to have at least one burn and after my initial bolt to bolt go and an extra warmup pitch (to kill some time while it cooled down slightly) I found myself setting off on my attempt. |
 | ||||
| Reaching better holds at the 6th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) The power of the psyche of other climbers is a big factor in getting up rock climbs as I found out over the next 5 minutes as Eder and Josh shouted up their encouragement. The redpoint went well up to the 6th bolt despite the heat as I felt stonger than ever and even not catching the pinch quite right with my left hand on the redpoint crux below the 6th bolt (due to the heat affecting grip on the smooth, rounded sidepull) didn't matter. Relaxing into the kneebar, I decided to allow myself two shakes of each arm only and stayed there 30 seconds rather than the 45 seconds of the previous session. The kneebar is pretty marginal for me at least and is definitely not hands off. At a certain point you start to 'lose more than you gain'!
The moves up past the 7th clip went well and before I knew it, I was moving right and up towards to the 8th clip and my highpoint. My fingers bit into the right hand undercut and I stepped my left foot down to a low foothold as I had worked out the last few sessions. This beta tweak added an extra footmove and a few more seconds on the rock but thankfully removed the left foot pop which had been the demise of several previous redpoints. I felt fresh enough for a cheeky adjust with my right hand on the undercut and moving up to the better holds I knew I was in with a good shout. Climbing past my highpoint and reaching the undercuts where I could reach down and clip the 8th bolt (using a long slip blu-tacked to the rock for ease of clipping) was an amazing feeling. The top kneebar slotted in ideally and I was able to recover well for 2 minutes before steeling myself for the top roof. Summoning every ounce of remaining power in my body I threw everything at these strenuous, reachy moves. Standing up into the big left hand undercut and grabbing the big pinch at the end of the difficulties, I could barely believe I was about to clip the chains and finally close this chapter in my climbing. Thanks to everybody who has belayed me over the past 5 years. For those of you with long term projects, stick at it, work hard and success will come!
|
Source: Progress! (http://)
Post by: comPiler on July 15, 2021, 07:01:01 pm
Having recently climbed my 5 year project last month, Progress at Kilnsey, I have just been re-reading my previous blog posts about the route, which become something of a nemesis. Starting in 2017, they follow the process up until last year in some detail - hopefully useful to those planning their own campaign!
|
| Reaching the 'Eyes' by the 5th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) |
Success this year came from a number of factors, not least of which was the discovery of a new kneebar by the 6th bolt by Eder Lomba Lopez de Ipiña. I initially discounted this as I was so used to climbing quickly through the pumpy redpoint crux moves between the 6th and 8th bolts without even stopping to chalk and had done my 2nd bolt to top links in this manner. I also was concerned that the 4 extra handmoves required to climb into and out of the kneebar would add in more time on the rock and extra pump, despite the new opportunity to rest. However, after speaking to Josh Ibbertson who kindly shared his strategy with the kneebar (having sent the route the week previously), it became clear that it would be possible to climb straight into the long move up from the 6th bolt straight out of the kneebar cutting out some of these extra footmoves. Therefore, on balance, it was a no brainer for me to use the new rest. Why ignore a perfectly good kneebar?! My Youtube video of the climb (below) shows the discovery of the kneebar for any aspirant ascentionists:
Video of the route
Another factor in getting over the line this year was building my own board in January during the last lockdown. In February and March, I set some pretty savage problems on dowel pinches and basic birch ply grips which certainly helped to maintain power levels while the walls were closed. Once I got back on the route in late April, I was initially worried that I hadn't got the strength for the crux as I couldn't do the moves from the floor but this was just a lack of recruitment and just like last year, after a few sessions back on the rig, the muscle memory kicked in and all my board training paid off. Before long, I was climbing back up to the eyes by the 5th bolt, an 'entry level' link which is pretty much mandatory prior to getting in some proper redpoint burns. Shortly after this, the crag got one of its regular drenchings and North Buttress was out of commission for a couple of weeks in May with some unseasonably cold weather to boot.
|
| Starting the crux at the 2nd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) |
As soon as June rolled around, I got back into gear and with the arrival of warmer weather, managed to do the 3rd to top link and could feel the project coming together. I was about to go for the 2nd to top link after 2 rest days as it was quite warm but a crag regular persuaded me to go from the floor instead. I'm glad I did as I got up to just below the 7th bolt before I even knew about the new kneebar - it was on! Shortly after this good go, the 6th bolt kneebar was discovered and after commiting to using it, I experimented with different rest times to allow for optimal recovery. From the 6th bolt to the top is about 8a I would say but you have already climbed 8b+/8c to get there so you will not have much left in the tank...unless you are ultrafit and/or strong! On a really good go which was filmed by Marsha Balaeva (starting at 6:05 in my video) after one rest day, I managed my second best ever go from the ground in excellent, breezy conditions getting to just below the 8th bolt before the terminal pump kicked in and I was summarily ejected from the rock! | ||
| Tough moves at the 3rd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) Of course, there is no direct comparision to my high point in 2019 when I reached 2 moves further (but without the kneebar) as the route is now undoubtedly more manageable with the new shakeout for those able to reach the 6th bolt. I guess I will never get to find out if I could climb it without the kneebar and get the satifaction of smashing through my old highpoint. However, this is tempered with the realisation that I had discovered a new shakeout at the end of the season last year at the 6th bolt at exactly the same place as the kneebar (see my post from last year) which allows a similar recovery for the right arm, allowing you to refresh it for the long move. So, in reality I would never have adopted my 'extreme sprint' approach (with only one chalk of each hand at the eyes) again which made getting the perfect go with the required minimum 2 rest days and decent conditions very tricky indeed. I am happy to have ticked the route using the knee which allows me to move on and do some much needed new climbing. Regarding the grade, comparing it to others around this difficulty level, I am confident that the kneebar, whilst making the route more approachable, does not bring the route down to 8c, just a little lower in the 8c+ grade.
After my close go, I rested up 2 days and was confident of taking it down but was torn as to whether to go for it that day as it was pretty warm and lacking a decent breeze. Alternatively, I could come back the following day when conditions would be likely better. Luckily Adam Lincoln convinced me to have at least one burn and after my initial bolt to bolt go and an extra warmup pitch (to kill some time while it cooled down slightly) I found myself setting off on my attempt. |
| ||||
| Reaching better holds at the 6th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla) The power of the psyche of other climbers is a big factor in getting up rock climbs as I found out over the next 5 minutes as Eder and Josh shouted up their encouragement. The redpoint went well up to the 6th bolt despite the heat as I felt stonger than ever and even not catching the pinch quite right with my left hand on the redpoint crux below the 6th bolt (due to the heat affecting grip on the smooth, rounded sidepull) didn't matter. Relaxing into the kneebar, I decided to allow myself two shakes of each arm only and stayed there 30 seconds rather than the 45 seconds of the previous session. The kneebar is pretty marginal for me at least and is definitely not hands off. At a certain point you start to 'lose more than you gain'!
The moves up past the 7th clip went well and before I knew it, I was moving right and up towards to the 8th clip and my highpoint. My fingers bit into the right hand undercut and I stepped my left foot down to a low foothold as I had worked out the last few sessions. This beta tweak added an extra footmove and a few more seconds on the rock but thankfully removed the left foot pop which had been the demise of several previous redpoints. I felt fresh enough for a cheeky adjust with my right hand on the undercut and moving up to the better holds I knew I was in with a good shout. Climbing past my highpoint and reaching the undercuts where I could reach down and clip the 8th bolt (using a long slip blu-tacked to the rock for ease of clipping) was an amazing feeling. The top kneebar slotted in ideally and I was able to recover well for 2 minutes before steeling myself for the top roof. Summoning every ounce of remaining power in my body I threw everything at these strenuous, reachy moves. Standing up into the big left hand undercut and grabbing the big pinch at the end of the difficulties, I could barely believe I was about to clip the chains and finally close this chapter in my climbing. Thanks to everybody who has belayed me over the past 5 years. For those of you with long term projects, stick at it, work hard and success will come!
|
Source: Progress! (http://)
Post by: comPiler on December 07, 2021, 01:07:48 am
Now seems to be as good a time as any to look back on the year that is swifly coming to an end as the crags get wetter and the temps drop. Most people bar the hardy few have now retreated into training mode. Its time for a much needed power topup or some well deserved rest and recuperation. Time to dust down that training plan perhaps?
2021 will be remembered as one of the better sport climbing seasons we have had in recent years. The crags started off dry in April and bar a cold spell in May, that continued right up until early August when the first serious deluges rolled through. These proved to be no more than temporary setbacks for the serious Kilnsey redpointers, resulting in some minor adjustments to that all-important redpointing schedule. For those with time on their hands, this summer was the time to bring it all together and make the push to that elusive next grade or bag that pesky long term project.
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| The Yorkshire Ripper 8b (Credit: Tim Eley) |
For crag regulars, it was excellent to see the influx of recruits to the ranks as some new faces were welcomed to the scene with everybody keen to share beta and psyche. One of the best bits of having a regular attendance record at Kilnsey is the social scene and saying hi to a friendly face, especially after the recent lockdowns, The Yorkshire Limestone Facebook group was a great source of partners for many without a regular belayer or failing that, just rocking up and offering to belay resulted in a catch being secured on many an occasion - who knows just how many spontaneous sends resulted which otherwise wouldn't have happened? I will try and remember some of the many, great ascents that took place at Malham and Kilnsey although with the disclaimer that there were so many that I will inevitably miss out a few - if I have erred, answers on a postcard to give somebody I have missed their rightful place in the pantheon! (Crag coverage limited to the Big 2 crags because that's where I went most of summer!)
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To sum up some of the high end action at Kilnsey, Northern Lights 9a got sent twice by Will Bosi and Josh Ibbertson. I was lucky enough to witness Will's ascent and saw Josh get very close on multiple ocassions before he did it. It was amazing to see these high level performances and the sheer level of effort and dedication on show. From a personal perspective, my saga with Progress 8c+ finally came to an end in June, which felt strange to be finally able to move on and bring a multi-year siege to a close. It was awesome to see Josh, Eder Lomba de Ipina and Pete Dawson all clip the chains too and share the new kneebar beta that emerged, which proved to get the key to getting over the line, margins between success and failure being wafer thin at your personal limit.
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| Northern Exposure 8b+ at Kilnsey (Credit: Andy Gardner) |
Alex Barrow succeeded on Preposterous Tales a new 9a through the big roof at Kilnsey; its great to see that the crag is still yielding new lines, it looks like a funky piece of very difficult climbing through a gob smacking feature. Tim Palmer, Josh Ibbertson, Pete Dawson and me managed to send the tricky Northern Exposure Part 1 8b+ after several years of this nearly forgotten testpiece lying fallow. The extension to this line, Northern Star 9a/+, Steve McClure's superroute from 2007 did see some attention with a crimp or two parting company with the crag most inopportunely back in June, rendering it likely harder. One can only hope that the line is still possible, although with the dismaying levels of strength displayed by today's up and coming young climbers, perhaps it is no bad thing that there are testpieces out there still to be freshly claimed.
Several well deserved ticks of Urgent Action were bagged, both male and female, including by Thea Cameron. It was certainly the year to lay your North Buttress project to rest with the usual worries of impending seepage dispelled for weeks at a time. Rhoslyn Frugtniet swifly despatched Full Tilt 8b, along with several others with some strong teams laying siege to the full line, True North 8c. I am sure next year there will be many clipping those elusive chains! The Yorkshire Ripper 8b received a rare ascent from yours truly which will hopefully lead to more from other climbers. Half the battle seems to be cleaning up dusty holds and getting on the thing, which leads to others showing an interest and helping to clean up the line still further. Indian Summer was sent by Josh Ibberton and his dad James (if I am not mistaken) and Neil Mawson with Tom Newberry adding All Out 8c to his ticklist to round out the action down this end of the crag.
Mandella 8a+ was sent by several parties including Tanya Meredith and Ella Russell, again a great tick for a dry summer, no better time to add this mega classic to your trophy cabinet! Bullet 8a+ proved popular with Naomi Buys, amongst others, succeeding on a well-deserved tick.
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| Victor Hugo 8b at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
Moving on to Malham, Eder Lomba de Ipina ticked Rainshadow 9a and Batman 9a/+ in the Spring, as did Josh Ibbertson and Toby Roberts, more recently in the autumn. There were a few ascents of Bat Route 8c, John Lawson sending it in the Spring and Tom Frost ticking it stylishly in September. Jim Hulbert ticked The Great Escape 8b+, the link of Cry Freedom into Predator with impeccable timing before the Autumn rains. Many worthy ticks of classics at a slightly lower grade took place. These were too numerous to mention by name suffice to say that many elated redpointers toasted their success in the Listers post-send on GBH, Zoolook, Austrian Oak and The Groove. The tough Victor Hugo 8b, the extension to Thriller 7c+ (above Consenting Adults 7a) got send twice by Pete Dawson and I, leading to mutterings on a possible upgrade but I digress.
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| Attempts on Sabotage 8c+ at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
Unfortunately, all good things come to an end and by early October, the crag was calling time on the season with some Autumn gales barrelling through and bringing some drastic seepage lines to the crag. My inroads into Sabotage 8c+, Neil Gresham's major extension to Predator will have to wait until next year after I invested a considerable number of sessions into the line from mid August through September. Rainman 9b may just hold out another year before the coveted second ascent, although I may yet have to correct this if last year's late ticks of Rainshadow by Josh and Toby are anything to go on!
So, happy training everyone, enjoy some downtime from the stresses of redpointing and the at times full-on nature of being immersed in a long term project. 2022 may yet be your year!!
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| The last shakeout on Predator before the crux of Sabotage 8c+ (Credit: Tristan Roberts) |
Source: Yorkshire limestone 2021 - Reflections on the sport climbing season (http://)
Post by: Bradders on December 07, 2021, 01:43:05 pm
One of the best bits of having a regular attendance record at Kilnsey is the social scene and saying hi to a friendly face, especially after the recent lockdowns, The Yorkshire Limestone Facebook group was a great source of partners for many without a regular belayer
Nice one Ted, great write up and such a good season for you!
It was great fun getting involved in the Kilnsey scene for the first time for me this year. The social side alone made it an improvement over lonely, sweaty bouldering in dark, dank roadside caves all summer.
On the topic of the Facebook groups; I said to myself at the end of April that I'd try and get on a rope twice a week, and go bouldering if I couldn't get a partner. It's strong testament to the success of the Yorkshire and Peak FB groups that I got out at least twice a week, every week, but I didn't go bouldering at all for 3.5 months! Great stuff. Looking forward to next year.
Post by: Kingy on December 07, 2021, 09:36:15 pm
Post by: Fiend on December 07, 2021, 09:41:50 pm
Post by: comPiler on December 08, 2021, 01:02:36 am
Now seems to be as good a time as any to look back on the year that is swifly coming to an end as the crags get wetter and the temps drop. Most people bar the hardy few have now retreated into training mode. Its time for a much needed power topup or some well deserved rest and recuperation. Time to dust down that training plan perhaps?
2021 will be remembered as one of the better sport climbing seasons we have had in recent years. The crags started off dry in April and bar a cold spell in May, that continued right up until early August when the first serious deluges rolled through. These proved to be no more than temporary setbacks for the serious Kilnsey redpointers, resulting in some minor adjustments to that all-important redpointing schedule. For those with time on their hands, this summer was the time to bring it all together and make the push to that elusive next grade or bag that pesky long term project.
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| The Yorkshire Ripper 8b (Credit: Tim Eley) |
For crag regulars, it was excellent to see the influx of recruits to the ranks as some new faces were welcomed to the scene with everybody keen to share beta and psyche. One of the best bits of having a regular attendance record at Kilnsey is the social scene and saying hi to a friendly face, especially after the recent lockdowns, The Yorkshire Limestone Facebook group was a great source of partners for many without a regular belayer or failing that, just rocking up and offering to belay resulted in a catch being secured on many an occasion - who knows just how many spontaneous sends resulted which otherwise wouldn't have happened? I will try and remember some of the many, great ascents that took place at Malham and Kilnsey although with the disclaimer that there were so many that I will inevitably miss out a few - if I have erred, answers on a postcard to give somebody I have missed their rightful place in the pantheon! (Crag coverage limited to the Big 2 crags because that's where I went most of summer!)
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To sum up some of the high end action at Kilnsey, Northern Lights 9a got sent twice by Will Bosi and Josh Ibbertson. I was lucky enough to witness Will's ascent and saw Josh get very close on multiple ocassions before he did it. It was amazing to see these high level performances and the sheer level of effort and dedication on show. From a personal perspective, my saga with Progress 8c+ finally came to an end in June, which felt strange to be finally able to move on and bring a multi-year siege to a close. It was awesome to see Josh, Eder Lomba de Ipina and Pete Dawson all clip the chains too and share the new kneebar beta that emerged, which proved to get the key to getting over the line, margins between success and failure being wafer thin at your personal limit.
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| Northern Exposure 8b+ at Kilnsey (Credit: Andy Gardner) |
Alex Barrow succeeded on Preposterous Tales a new 9a through the big roof at Kilnsey; its great to see that the crag is still yielding new lines, it looks like a funky piece of very difficult climbing through a gob smacking feature. Tim Palmer, Josh Ibbertson, Pete Dawson and me managed to send the tricky Northern Exposure Part 1 8b+ after several years of this nearly forgotten testpiece lying fallow. The extension to this line, Northern Star 9a/+, Steve McClure's superroute from 2007 did see some attention with a crimp or two parting company with the crag most inopportunely back in June, rendering it likely harder. One can only hope that the line is still possible, although with the dismaying levels of strength displayed by today's up and coming young climbers, perhaps it is no bad thing that there are testpieces out there still to be freshly claimed.
Several well deserved ticks of Urgent Action were bagged, both male and female, including by Thea Cameron. It was certainly the year to lay your North Buttress project to rest with the usual worries of impending seepage dispelled for weeks at a time. Rhoslyn Frugtniet swifly despatched Full Tilt 8b, along with several others with some strong teams laying siege to the full line, True North 8c. I am sure next year there will be many clipping those elusive chains! The Yorkshire Ripper 8b received a rare ascent from yours truly which will hopefully lead to more from other climbers. Half the battle seems to be cleaning up dusty holds and getting on the thing, which leads to others showing an interest and helping to clean up the line still further. Indian Summer was sent by Josh Ibberton and his dad James (if I am not mistaken) and Neil Mawson with Tom Newberry adding All Out 8c to his ticklist to round out the action down this end of the crag.
Mandella 8a+ was sent by several parties including Tanya Meredith and Ella Russell, again a great tick for a dry summer, no better time to add this mega classic to your trophy cabinet! Bullet 8a+ proved popular with Naomi Buys, amongst others, succeeding on a well-deserved tick.
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| Victor Hugo 8b at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
Moving on to Malham, Eder Lomba de Ipina ticked Rainshadow 9a and Batman 9a/+ in the Spring, as did Josh Ibbertson and Toby Roberts, more recently in the autumn. There were a few ascents of Bat Route 8c, John Lawson sending it in the Spring and Tom Frost ticking it stylishly in September. Jim Hulbert ticked The Great Escape 8b+, the link of Cry Freedom into Predator with impeccable timing before the Autumn rains. Many worthy ticks of classics at a slightly lower grade took place. These were too numerous to mention by name suffice to say that many elated redpointers toasted their success in the Listers post-send on GBH, Zoolook, Austrian Oak and The Groove. The tough Victor Hugo 8b, the extension to Thriller 7c+ (above Consenting Adults 7a) got sent twice by Pete Dawson and I, leading to mutterings on a possible upgrade but I digress.
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| Attempts on Sabotage 8c+ at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
Unfortunately, all good things come to an end and by early October, the crag was calling time on the season with some Autumn gales barrelling through and bringing some drastic seepage lines to the crag. My inroads into Sabotage 8c+, Neil Gresham's major extension to Predator will have to wait until next year after I invested a considerable number of sessions into the line from mid August through September. Rainman 9b may just hold out another year before the coveted second ascent, although I may yet have to correct this if last year's late ticks of Rainshadow by Josh and Toby are anything to go on!
So, happy training everyone, enjoy some downtime from the stresses of redpointing and the at times full-on nature of being immersed in a long term project. 2022 may yet be your year!!
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| The last shakeout on Predator before the crux of Sabotage 8c+ (Credit: Tristan Roberts) |
Source: Yorkshire limestone 2021 - Reflections on the sport climbing season (http://)
Post by: comPiler on December 09, 2021, 01:02:07 am
Now seems to be as good a time as any to look back on the year that is swifly coming to an end as the crags get wetter and the temps drop. Most people bar the hardy few have now retreated into training mode. Its time for a much needed power topup or some well deserved rest and recuperation. Time to dust down that training plan perhaps?
2021 will be remembered as one of the better sport climbing seasons we have had in recent years. The crags started off dry in April and bar a cold spell in May, that continued right up until early August when the first serious deluges rolled through. These proved to be no more than temporary setbacks for the serious Kilnsey redpointers, resulting in some minor adjustments to that all-important redpointing schedule. For those with time on their hands, this summer was the time to bring it all together and make the push to that elusive next grade or bag that pesky long term project.
|
| The Yorkshire Ripper 8b (Credit: Tim Eley) |
For crag regulars, it was excellent to see the influx of recruits to the ranks as some new faces were welcomed to the scene with everybody keen to share beta and psyche. One of the best bits of having a regular attendance record at Kilnsey is the social scene and saying hi to a friendly face, especially after the recent lockdowns, The Yorkshire Limestone Facebook group was a great source of partners for many without a regular belayer or failing that, just rocking up and offering to belay resulted in a catch being secured on many an occasion - who knows just how many spontaneous sends resulted which otherwise wouldn't have happened? I will try and remember some of the many, great ascents that took place at Malham and Kilnsey although with the disclaimer that there were so many that I will inevitably miss out a few - if I have erred, answers on a postcard to give somebody I have missed their rightful place in the pantheon! (Crag coverage limited to the Big 2 crags because that's where I went most of summer!)
| ||
|
To sum up some of the high end action at Kilnsey, Northern Lights 9a got sent twice by Will Bosi and Josh Ibbertson. I was lucky enough to witness Will's ascent and saw Josh get very close on multiple ocassions before he did it. It was amazing to see these high level performances and the sheer level of effort and dedication on show. From a personal perspective, my saga with Progress 8c+ finally came to an end in June, which felt strange to be finally able to move on and bring a multi-year siege to a close. It was awesome to see Josh, Eder Lomba de Ipina and Pete Dawson all clip the chains too and share the new kneebar beta that emerged, which proved to get the key to getting over the line, margins between success and failure being wafer thin at your personal limit.
|
| Northern Exposure 8b+ at Kilnsey (Credit: Andy Gardner) |
Alex Barrows succeeded on Preposterous Tales a new 9a through the big roof at Kilnsey; its great to see that the crag is still yielding new lines, it looks like a funky piece of very difficult climbing through a gob smacking feature. Tim Palmer, Josh Ibbertson, Pete Dawson and me managed to send the tricky Northern Exposure Part 1 8b+ after several years of this nearly forgotten testpiece lying fallow. The extension to this line, Northern Star 9a/+, Steve McClure's superroute from 2007 did see some attention with a crimp or two parting company with the crag most inopportunely back in June, rendering it likely harder. One can only hope that the line is still possible, although with the dismaying levels of strength displayed by today's up and coming young climbers, perhaps it is no bad thing that there are testpieces out there still to be freshly claimed.
Several well deserved ticks of Urgent Action were bagged, both male and female, including by Thea Cameron. It was certainly the year to lay your North Buttress project to rest with the usual worries of impending seepage dispelled for weeks at a time. Rhoslyn Frugtniet swifly despatched Full Tilt 8b, along with several others with some strong teams laying siege to the full line, True North 8c. I am sure next year there will be many clipping those elusive chains! The Yorkshire Ripper 8b received a rare ascent from yours truly which will hopefully lead to more from other climbers. Half the battle seems to be cleaning up dusty holds and getting on the thing, which leads to others showing an interest and helping to clean up the line still further. Indian Summer was sent by Josh Ibberton and his dad James (if I am not mistaken) and Neil Mawson with Tom Newberry adding All Out 8c to his ticklist to round out the action down this end of the crag.
Mandella 8a+ was sent by several parties including Tanya Meredith and Ella Russell, again a great tick for a dry summer, no better time to add this mega classic to your trophy cabinet! Bullet 8a+ proved popular with Naomi Buys, amongst others, succeeding on a well-deserved tick.
|
| Victor Hugo 8b at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
Moving on to Malham, Eder Lomba de Ipina ticked Rainshadow 9a and Batman 9a/+ in the Spring, as did Josh Ibbertson and Toby Roberts, more recently in the autumn. There were a few ascents of Bat Route 8c, John Lawson sending it in the Spring and Tom Frost ticking it stylishly in September. Jim Hulbert ticked The Great Escape 8b+, the link of Cry Freedom into Predator with impeccable timing before the Autumn rains. Many worthy ticks of classics at a slightly lower grade took place. These were too numerous to mention by name suffice to say that many elated redpointers toasted their success in the Listers post-send on GBH, Zoolook, Austrian Oak and The Groove. The tough Victor Hugo 8b, the extension to Thriller 7c+ (above Consenting Adults 7a) got sent twice by Pete Dawson and I, leading to mutterings on a possible upgrade but I digress.
|
| Attempts on Sabotage 8c+ at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva) |
Unfortunately, all good things come to an end and by early October, the crag was calling time on the season with some Autumn gales barrelling through and bringing some drastic seepage lines to the crag. My inroads into Sabotage 8c+, Neil Gresham's major extension to Predator will have to wait until next year after I invested a considerable number of sessions into the line from mid August through September. Rainman 9b may just hold out another year before the coveted second ascent, although I may yet have to correct this if last year's late ticks of Rainshadow by Josh and Toby are anything to go on!
So, happy training everyone, enjoy some downtime from the stresses of redpointing and the at times full-on nature of being immersed in a long term project. 2022 may yet be your year!!
|
| The last shakeout on Predator before the crux of Sabotage 8c+ (Credit: Tristan Roberts) |
Source: Yorkshire limestone 2021 - Reflections on the sport climbing season (http://)
Post by: Fiend on December 09, 2021, 08:48:27 am
Post by: comPiler on April 30, 2022, 07:00:43 pm
I was going through old files the other day and thought it would be useful to post up pictures of my ascent with Ben Heason of Attraferso il Pesce or 'The Fish' on the south face of the Marmolada in August 2009. I wrote an article about our ascent at the time and set this out below, in case it is of any use to anybody planning their own ascent. This was all before blogs or instagram!
The Fish – South Face of the Marmolada, Dolomites, August 2009
By Ted Kingsnorth
Having been on a trip to the Dolomites in August 2000 with some friends from Manchester University, when I had ticked a number of classic routes, I had always been keen to head back for more. I had been inspired by the huge expanses of vertical walls, spectacular situations and the high standard of free climbing that was possible with, on the whole, good protection, in the form of pegs or trad gear. In particular, when on the Comici Route on the north face of the Cima Grande, a very famous route of about E2 or E3 in standard, I had looked across at the vast overhanging wall on the same face taken by the Brandler Hasse, a sustained E5, and wondered if I would ever be good enough to climb it. A member of our party had done the Brandler that trip and so I resolved to return when I had gained the necessary climbing skills and experience to do battle once more.
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| Signpost to the Marmolada Fast forward nine years and I have teamed up with Ben Heason to attempt the Brandler. Much planning has gone into this trip with countless emails exchanged to arrange the necessary gear and logistics. As we took off from East Midlands Airport, I could barely believe that we were actually about to set off on the trip after so much looking forward to it. Touching down in Venice at 9pm, we hastily jumped in the hire car and drove north, fuelled by large slices of pizza. Once in Cortina d’Ampezzo, the main town in the valley, we headed straight for the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the massif containing the Cima Grande, one of the six great north faces of the Alps. Bivvying out at the car park, on the first day we set off up the Fabjan, a nice 11 pitch HVS warm up climb on the south face of the Punta Frida. Suitably adjusted to the style of climbing, the odd loose hold and with the weather set fair we set our sights on the Brandler for the following morning. At 4:30am, our alarms went off and wolfing down some pricey apfel strudel bought at the Auronzo Hut, we set off for the base of the route in the dark. It turned out to be an outstanding outing, despite us having to follow two other parties. The opening seven pitches whet your appetite for the main meat of the 7a/7a+ overhanging corners for which the route is famous. Ben pulled out a brilliant lead of what I thought was the crux of the climb, a wet overhanging chimney crack, the second 7a pitch. It was my lead for the overhanging 7a+ stamina crack and I sprinted up this, clipping everything in sight. Then, after a tricky 6c+ pitch, the upper pitches eased off and we were soon on the ringband contemplating the descent.
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| Ted approaching the Malga Ombretta refuge below the south face of the Marmolada en route to the Falier Refuge |
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| Ted studying the Fish route with monocular the afternoon of the day before our ascent of the Fish |
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| The Falier Refuge, the hut we stayed in before ascending the Fish |
We were tempted to join in the fun but we had a route to climb so set off up the path to the base of the face, to stash our gear for the following morning. This is a trick we found very useful on the Brandler, as much for mental preparation as anything else. If you have seen where the first pitch starts and put your harness and gear next to the first belay, it puts your mind at rest and allows you to focus on the job in hand, without worrying about not finding where the route starts in the early morning, when any delay could be critical. We had a detailed topo from UP magazine (see below) which suggested scrambling in on a ledge system to the belay at the end of the normal pitch 2. We elected to do this as the first five pitches were meant to be very loose and not recommended. This left only three loose pitches before the start of the slab proper.
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| Dawn at the first belay of the Fish |
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| Looking out from the start of the Fish |
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| Ben at the second belay of the Fish |
Ted leading the 5th pitch (French 5c or E2 5b)
· A meal in the hut allowed us to meet the other teams of climbers setting off for routes the next day. There were three teams heading off to do Tempi Moderni, a 28 pitch E4 to the left of our route but we were the only party from the hut intent on the Fish. After six hours snoozing in the hut dorms, the alarm went off at 4:30am and it was action stations. After gulping down our coffee and porridge, without any gear to carry up to the base, we were quickly racking up by our stash of gear from the previous day after a 45 minute walk uphill. Ben set off up the first pitch in the half light, a French 6a flake/crack. The UP magazine description recommended linking pitches together to save time so we became used to doing mammoth 50m+ pitches. With Ben having runout 55m of rope, I started seconding up fairly loose terrain and was soon joining him at the belay. I then set off a 60m French 5a pitch. I knew it would be loose and so had prepared myself for the worst. Happily the reality was not as bad as I had feared and bar the odd bit of scree perched precariously on protruding ledges and some flaky holds, the whole pitch was not much harder than E1 5a. After Ben’s French 5b pitch that followed it became fully light to reveal a clear, sunny day; we were now warmed up and psyched for the much harder slab pitches to come. I led off up a 60m French 5c dihedral that was about E2 5b but had to be pretty sparing on the gear seeing how long the pitch was. Unfortunately, I belayed 4m below the true belay, a stuck hex, on a good peg but that did not stop us keeping on the right line as Ben headed up the first true pitch on the famous slab, a long, wandering and technical 6b+ pitch with many threads.
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| Ben seconding the 5th pitch (French 5c or E2 5b) |
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| Ted leading the 7th pitch (French 6a+ or E2 5c) of the Fish |
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| Ted seconding the 8th pitch (French 7a+ or E4/5 6b) |
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| Ted seconding the 8th pitch (French 7a+ or E4/5 6b) |
By the next 6a+ pitch we were becoming used to the style of climbing which could not have been more different from the Brandler. There were many in situ kevlar threads to clip with additional nut and cam placements. The pockets were pretty positive with the emphasis being on good technique to enable the ground to be covered as quickly and efficiently as possible. By this time, we had been joined by a German girl and an Argentinian chap, both guides or aspirant guides who had walked up from the valley floor that morning. Unfortunately, I overshot the belay of my pitch by about 8m due to a confusing topo description but it didn’t matter as, aided by the knowledge of the Argentinian, who had been on the route eight years previously, Ben was able to downclimb and traverse to the right before attacking the first tricky pitch, a slabby 7a+. With the benefit of hindsight it seems like I had followed the pegs on the line used by people intent on aiding the 7a+ bit, which is different, and more direct, to the free line.
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| Ted leading the 10th pitch (French 7b or E5/6 6b) |
Suddenly the mist came down eerily around us and it became pretty cold even with all of our layers on. We had both taken a thermal and a soft shell plus one other outer layer and it was all I could do to keep the blood pumping by kicking my legs and punching the air while belaying. While following the 7a+ (equating to E4/5 6b), I knew we were in for some more testing climbing as it was very thin and balancy, although fortunately well protected by in situ pegs and optional cams. The next pitch was a nice 30m 6b+ (or about E3 6a), and which we could have linked into the previous 7a+ had I not gone astray on the previous pitch. Once at the belay, I looked up at the blank, slabby 7b groove above me, a photo of which graces the front cover of the Marmolada guide, and knew that this was where the real business began. It was my lead so without delay, I set off on what I knew would be a demanding lead. It began easily enough on large well spaced pockets with some respectable runouts but soon the pockets blanked out and the rock became smooth, punctuated by some very thin seams. I clipped a chunky peg bashed downwards into a large pocket and then slightly higher an in situ tri-cam, with an unfortunately frayed sling attached and then contemplated the next moves. Apparently, you used to be able to aid this section but a small peg in one of the seams snapped off relatively recently, making the precarious move obligatory. I crammed my fingers into the crucial vertical slot and smeared my feet on the rough slab, running it out a few feet above the tri-cam. Next thing I knew, my fingers were sinking into a bomber pocket above and I knew I had done it. I linked the next 6c+ pitch into the 7b to make a massive 60m pitch of E5/E6 6b, at that time the hardest on-sight trad lead I had ever achieved and in one of the most stunning positions imaginable! The 6c+ was quite difficult in its own right involving a couple of mono pockets. Thankfully, as I had to keep reminding myself, it was only a slab! This led into the legendary fish niche, a niche high on the face that resembles the profile of a whale and gives the route its name.
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| Ted leading the 10th pitch (French 7b or E5/6 6b) |
The sun had now dispersed the mist and I was burning up in all my layers, my feet in agony due to the heat and having to stand on my toes for so long, despite my comfortable baggy shoes. I had a muesli bar and a gel to boost my energy levels and stripped off a few layers. A helicopter containing what looked like tourists suddenly came buzzing by to within 15m of the niche and I gave it a thumbs up to signal that we were fine. It was now approaching 3pm so we had no time to lose. The 7a pitch leaving the fish was like space walking, a long, weaving 35m E4/E5 on sinker pockets with athletic pulls between flakes and many threads. Ben now had the crux of the route, a short 7b+ pitch with a difficult series of pockets leading into some hard slab moves. He destroyed the pocket moves and then stood readying himself before the key slab section. I soon knew that he had done it judging from the triumphant roar that echoed down to me at the belay! (It turned out that the notorious runout that we had been told about on this pitch was far less scary than expected, making this into perhaps an easy E6 pitch). Seconding with a 2kg bum bag was no picnic but with Ben’s beta, I followed without incident and realised that we had only one more 7th grade pitch followed by a short 6c before the final 6c+ crack.
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| Ted seconding the 12th pitch (French 7b+ or E6 6b) |
The next ‘pendulum’ pitch was given 7a or 7a+ on different topos but they all said that you had to climb up to a peg and then reverse back down again before traversing left to the base of a crack. Apparently the famous alpinist Marco Lukic had failed on his on-sight of the route on this section after freeing all the preceding hard pitches! With this in mind, I headed leftwards at what I guessed to be the right level. I plugged in a TCU in a vertical crack and then headed even further leftwards, leaving the peg above me to my right. Any fall now would result in a substantial (but dead safe) swing to the right. I pawed desperately at the blank slab above me, teetering with my feet in small pockets. With things having gone so well up to this point, I was determined not to lose the on-sight of the Fish. After ten minutes of pondering and false starts, I resolved to attack the slab, seeing that traversing even further below looked equally as hard, if not more difficult than the moves I was facing. Uncertain that I had chosen the easiest traverse line, I committed to the moves with some trepidation. With my feet tiring and a sense of urgency spurring me on as it was now 6pm, I cranked up on a shallow index finger mono and smeared my feet up the grey limestone. Thankfully, my feet stuck and I eased myself leftwards onto some sloping shelves and then eventually some decent pockets. All that remained was a romp up the strenuous layback cracks above to the belay.
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| Ted seconding the 12th pitch (French 7b+ or E6 6b) |
Ben followed shortly afterwards and we now realised that an on-sight ascent was within our grasp. Ben fired off the short 6c undercut traverse pitch, unfortunately marred by some dodgy rock and then I was below the base of the final 6c+, our fourteenth pitch of hard climbing. Exhausted, I knew that I had to summon up my reserves for one last push. It is amazing what you can achieve when your back is to the wall and I battled up this steep E3/E4 pitch as quickly as possible, clipping the many in situ pegs. Topping out onto the large ledge at the end of the major difficulties was an amazing feeling knowing that we had freed one of the most famous rock routes in the Alps. When Ben joined me it was 7:30pm and only one hour of daylight remained. The Argentinian and German party had sensibly retreated one pitch after the Fish niche due to lack of time.
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| Ted leading the 13th pitch (French 7a/+ or E5 6b) |
Most parties intent on only spending one day on the route abseil down from this ledge and avoid carrying bivvy gear as it marks the end of the major difficulties. Twelve pitches of sometimes loose and often wet walls and chimneys do lead to the summit but a bivouac on the ledge or near the summit is virtually guaranteed as the last cable car down to the valley leaves at 4:30pm! The abseils are all fairly straight down but some use peg belays which are often on neighbouring routes so the difficulty of following this option should not be underestimated. We managed eight abseils most of the way down the face before darkness fell and we had to get our headtorches out. The last two abseils took up by far the most time as it was difficult finding the right belays in the dark but by 9pm we were at the foot of the face and running back down to the hut. Headtorches had been shone at us from the hut after darkness fell but we had not been in any difficulties so had not signalled back. The hut guardian Dante always looks out for climbers in trouble and there were some flashing headtorches near the top of Tempi Moderni from a party about to bivvy out. Routes on the south face of the Marmolada are long and this is a frequent occurrence, there not being enough hours in the day for all but the fastest of parties to top out and descend in one push. Collecting our stashed gear at the hut, we thanked the people there for watching out for us and headed down to the valley. By 11:30pm we were safely ensconced in a bar in Alleghe wolfing down pizzas and supping on large beers to celebrate what for me at least had been one of my best days of alpine climbing ever.
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| South Side of the Marmolada Group from the Passo Giau |
Recommended Topos/ Guides
· ‘Dolomites: West and East’, Ron James, Alpine Club 2005
· ‘The Marmolada’, Maurizio Giordani, Versante Sud, 2008
· Planet Mountain topo: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?id_tipologia=38&lang=eng&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=374&gruppo=&cima=&nome=
· Up Magazine2004/05 ‘Mythical Routes’ section
Recommended Rack
· One set of wires (sizes #3-9)
· Four small/medium aliens or TCU’s
· Camelot yellow and blue (blue not essential), or equivalent sizes
· 16-18 quickdraws
Other routes to do on the South Face
· Don Quixote VI
· Vinatzer/Messner combination VI+
· Tempi Moderni 7a
· Specchio di Sara 7c
· End of Mystery 8a
· Catthedrale 8a+
Source: Attraverso il Pesce (http://)
Post by: bolehillbilly on April 30, 2022, 07:29:11 pm
Post by: dontfollowme on April 30, 2022, 08:53:09 pm
Post by: jwi on April 30, 2022, 09:09:32 pm
Post by: Kingy on April 30, 2022, 09:14:17 pm
Post by: Wood FT on May 01, 2022, 06:35:56 am
Post by: Duncan campbell on May 01, 2022, 03:45:25 pm
Post by: comPiler on July 12, 2022, 01:02:16 am
Six weeks have gone by since I completed my long term project Kaabah at Raven Tor and the whole thing has now sunk in. I have since been ticking some easier routes for a bit of variety and have also been on an awesome 2 week trip to the Alps around Chamonix. This required doing a few days of trad at Gogarth, Millstone and Stoney to get back into placing wires and cams, which was thoroughly enjoyable after so much time spent at the Tor.
I started trying Kaabah on the same day I clipped the chains of the Extension back in June last year. It felt like the logical next step to make use of the fitness gained in trying a similar route but even harder! While the Extension stacks an 8a on top of an 8b+ with two very good rests, Kaabah has significantly harder climbing (8a+) leaving Mecca just before its belay and then rejoining the Extension from below in the middle of its final traverse right, with only a poorer, single resting spot in a 'niche' high up on the wall. I knew this was going to push me to the limit when I began trying it but resolved that as long as I continued to see progress I would stick with it as it would be amazing to do such a cool 'directissima' on Mecca, taking the route to its ultimate conclusion.
The Mecca Crux (Video Still)
Early Days
I initially spent some time working out different methods for the very thin moves leaving the rest and studied the few videos of the route. I couldn't touch Steve's ultracrimpy method, its nails! Alex and Ryan's way going straight for the base of the Extension flake with the right hand was too reachy so I managed to work out a way pressing out left at the limit of my reach off a nasty thumb sprag to the 'car body filler' undercut of the Extension (don't ask!) I even managed to link to the base of the Extension Flake from the base of the Mecca groove using this early method before realising that by instead pulling on one of the tiny footholds of the Extension slightly higher up with my right hand the move was made a bit easier, although its still a very fickle customer in the wrong conditions. With my new sequence, although you are able to join the Extension a move earlier than either of Steve's or Alex's method's, you still have work to do as you are pretty stretched out and need to semi-dynamically flick you right hand into the tiny black sidepull used on the Extension once you have gained the left hand undercut (which is an extremely precarious move and requires you to drill you right toe into a tiny dink by your feet which is barely visible as you are pasted to the wall and can't easily spy your footholds). After repeated work, I was able to reliably climb from the niche to the Extension belay as part of my warm up on the route. This was the first time I had worked out a new method on a climb for myself so I was quite satisfied with the whole process.
Now just the link in of Mecca to go, easier said than done! In July last year I started the process of linking in sections of Mecca from successively lower stages (i.e. first level with the belay then the base of the groove by the 5th bolt then from the 3rd bolt by the big pocket). This adds a lot of pump to the upper 8a+ as I soon found. Before I was able to complete the key link from the 3rd bolt to the top, I got sucked into trying it from the ground, perhaps too early as this year it seemed that just knowing that you have completed this major link makes a big difference mentally. Progress came incrementally and last summer it turned into a war of attrition. Every saturday morning I would be there for another attempt and eventually got to the stage where I managed to join the Extension from the ground, although in a stage of terminal pump. I tried everything from gaffa taping the final clip into the rock to even using a fluorescent orange sticky tab to mark the hard-to-spot foothold.
On this route you only get very small windows for success as firstly you have to get yourself up Mecca every time. Then you need to be firing on all cylinders for the top wall so just scraping up Mecca is not enough, you need to own every hold and get to the rest with something left in the tank. On too many attempts I arrived at the shakeout with very little or nothing left to give to the top moves. They felt completely desparate from the ground and I found it was pretty much irrelevant how good they felt on the warmup. I got to the stage in August where I was fighting for extra individual moves on each successive visit, pushing my highpoint gradually upwards and routinely trying the hardest I have ever fought on a rock climb. Still, I was making some limited progress, enough to entice me to keep coming back for more.
The Falls
The moves on the top wall are so sustained that I found no place where you could stop and clip a bolt between the one you clip at the resting niche and the next one, which is a fair way above. There is the old 'bean can' aid bolt inbetween which offers a possibility for clipping an intermediate bolt in the middle of the upper crux. This can be backed up with a long sling but I found that this drained power at a crucial stage so rather than diminishing my chances, I decided to press on and embrace taking the ride! If you fall off on the moves getting both hands on the Extension flake you will take up to a 25 footer (hard grit comes to the lime!) Don't let this put you off though as it is actually an alright fall if you take care to stay balanced, don't tense up and get a nice soft catch - I must have taken this fall over 30 times so I guess I have road tested it!
In order to clip the next bolt after the niche, you must get both hands on the Extension flake and then, (as per the front cover of Alastair Lee's DVD 'Psyche') take you right hand off to quickly drop the rope into the draw. I found that as the bolt was so close in this position, it was easier to use a single crab. This feels the living end from the ground as all your muscles are screaming for you to let go and end the agony! It feels the easiest thing in the world just to grab the draw and give up!
The Big Fall! Attempt 24 June 2014
Failure
After 14 times reaching the resting niche or higher from the ground in August and September, on my best attempt I got to the move shared with the Extension where you have to put your right heel really high up on the flake while compressing between opposing sidepulls in order to reach up for higher crimps and easier moves leading to the final jugs. I probably only had 1% power left to give and remember squeezing like crazy between the flake with my right hand and the tiny high sidepull for my left hand. I briefly thought this was it, the time I was going to do it (a mistake in retrospect). Then dismayingly my heel refused to go any higher up to the flake as my arms gave out and I was off plummeting back into the void. Close but no cigar!
This last attempt proved to be my best go of the year and due to evening sessions on the route running out in late August, I was never able to regain this highpoint despite quite a few more attempts. I had a trip to Smith Rock planned in the last 2 weeks of October so resolved to get it bagged on my return but unfortunately the crag started seeping, which stopped everybody's campaigns on their projects for the year.
2014 - A Fresh Approach
A return trip to Smith Rocks in March proved the key to getting the monkey off my back. I felt a different climber this year, fitter from multiple laps on many 7b's and 7b+'s at Stockport but probably less strong from doing less bouldering. Ticking To Bolt or Not to Be at Smith was a great confidence booster and although it is a different beast to Kaabah being less steep but with twice as many moves, it provided a great foundation to work from. I had to bide my time up in Yorkshire in April and early May while the route dried out. Eventually the niche dried out enough to allow redpoint attempts. Crucially I managed to do the 3rd bolt to top link in late June, which I then managed on three other occasions. All I needed to do now was get up Mecca again.
Link from the 3rd bolt to the Top - 1 July 2014
I was also trying to gain more fitness on Kristian's excellent 7c 'Resistance', which is the finish to either Mark Tomlinson's 'Resistance is Futile' 8a+ or a new linkup I did 'Chimes of Resistance' 8b and is conveniently placed just above and to the right of the Extension loweroff. I found that this provided a crucial extra few percent of stamina. Frustratingly in late June/early July, I had 3 or 4 sessions where I couldn't get up the big M. However, I knew I could do it, it was a just a matter of time before I could stick the crux of Mecca gaining the horn - get working your left hand deadhangs for this move!
The Send
The day I did it I had actually had two previous unsuccessful attempts at getting through Mecca. I tried from the ground for a third time more as a matter of routine than anything else but was very relieved when I finally held the horn and then gained the kneebar in the groove. I knew I had a good chance even though the day was getting on and the air temperature was warming up. Arriving in the niche, I remembered not to outstay my welcome and pressed on up the sidepulls and gastons. The moves leading to the Extension flake and making the next clip felt good and in control although I could tell I had only a small margin for error. This time on the compression move was payback time and I was able to get my right heel up just fine, no terminal pump this time round. The last few moves passed in a blur and before I knew it I was hanging off the final jugs shouting for joy. The finish up Resistance felt hard but a fitting finish to create a new linkup 'Kaabah is Futile', no change in grade, just more pump!
It was great to finish this project and finally be free from something that badly needed finishing off. So, onto the next project, good luck with all your sends out there, there is an end to all redpoint sagas...eventually!
Source: Kaabah (http://)
Post by: comPiler on July 12, 2022, 07:00:08 pm
It has been a vintage season for Malham Cove this year. I have enjoyed experiencing the different seasons at the crag from the cool temps of spring, the heat of summer (which can be avoided by climbing superlate at the crag), the send temps of autumn to where we are at the moment in the cold conditions of early winter.
I have been going to Malham ever since I was at university in Manchester and still have my Rockfax 1990 guide which has been a source of continuing psyche. Seeing Cry Freedom in the guide next to the other classics, I always wondered whether I would ever be able to climb this historic line. I actually tried it in 2011 with James Riley for a couple of sessions but was way off the level back then. This year I was excited to use some of the fitness gained from trips away and plenty of time spent at the Tor to try some of the legendary staminafests the crag has to offer.
After coming back from the Alps in August, it took a couple of weeks to get my sport fitness back but it returned pretty quickly. I was pleased to do Totally Free 2, which was totally awesome (linking The Groove 8a+ into Free and Easy 7c then into the final roof of Breach of the Peace). This must be one of the best challenges at the grade in the UK even though there are quite a few good rests at key stages. Having frustratingly fallen off the last few moves in the wet before going to the Alps heaving up over the final barrel once stood up over the roof, the key to doing this was taking the trouble to first tick 'An Uneasy Peace 7c+' which starts up Free and Easy to its last bolt. Instead of going up and left to the belay of Free and Easy, Uneasy goes straight up via a runout section to finish up Breach. I reckon the roof of Breach must be 7c in its own right as it is burly and a tough finish to Totally Free 2 after 25 bolts of climbing, despite the hands off rest below Breach. Definitely save yourself the trouble of climbing all this way without having the top ruthlessly wired...and try not to attempt it in the rain either like me! I couldn't believe it when the heavens opened on my successful redpoint. Luckily I managed to bear down enough on the final wet crimps to avoid getting spat off into the void below. Here are some pics.
The lower crux of the The Groove
Bridging rest on The Groove
Starting the hard section of the second half of The Groove
Keep on trucking! Just past the crux on Free and Easy 7c
After this, I had a couple of sunday sessions on Cry Freedom second day on and sorted out all the moves but it was only when I started trying it fresh that I managed to make some breakthroughs. Linking from the undercut rest at the end of the initial 6 bolt 7c to the top was a massive buzz as it includes the first crux bulge which has some baffling V7 moves. The upper crux on its own must be about V6, depending on your reach. I know that climbers of shorter stature really struggle on this last section but I was lucky enough to be able to just reach the crux crimp with my right hand from the big undercut at the end of the final 'corner'. Getting fully crimped on this hold and having a little bend left in your arm while your right foot remains on a small spike foothold at the back of the bulge is crucial. You then place a tenuous heel/ toe cam in a big hole out left and take a grim little slot/ sidepull for your left hand. Releasing the heel/ toe is the real crux whilst remaining pasted to the wall as the next moves are a little easier and you are soon stood up over the bulge on small crimps eyeing up the belay.
Here is a video of the send. I would encourage anybody to try this route who may be having second thoughts given the many stories of last move failure out there. This is a stonking route with a real sense of history. I even managed to get a decent kneebar rest below the last crux which with a 5.10 pad is not far hands off if you can tense up your core enough. Unlike Bat Route or Unjustified, the crux is right where it should be, at the top!
Cry Freedom 8c - FA Mark Leach 1988
A short word on the grade of Cry Freedom compared to Unjustied and Bat Route. I reckon it is harder than either of these two routes overall although of a different character. On Bat Route, while the moves individually are often desperate, particularly the roof section, the hard bits tend to be broken up by really good resting jugs and a bomber kneebar. Unjustified by contract is the opposite having virtually no rest but with moves which are perhaps not quite as hard with the exception of the crux bulge. I have gone with Mark Leach's original grade of 8c for Cry Freedom as this is apparently the grade he gave it initially after his 46 day siege, which has become part of climbing folklore. I hear it was only after the first few repeats that it got downgraded. Jibe Tribout apparently thought it was easier than Mecca but was going well at the time!
After Cry Freedom, I got my guide out and sussed out the remaining doable ticks I had left on the lower catwalk. Twisted and the Well Dunne Finish were obvious gaps and I was stoked to be able to tick both after a spot of spring cleaning of some very dusty holds. I would definitely recommend both of these routes. I would not say Twisted was much easier than Well Dunne but see what you think. Hopefully these two videos are useful for beta.
Twisted 8a - FA Mick Lovatt 1988
Well Dunne Finish 8b - FA John Dunne 1988
So the crucial question, which of GBH or Zoolook is it best to start up when trying Well Dunne? Zoolook of course! To me, its a fair bit easier than GBH with a bomber rest at the fifth bolt that GBH doesn't have. So, get it while you still can, the crag is still dry I hear, see you out there!
Source: The Year of Malham (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2023, 01:02:53 am
Six weeks have gone by since I completed my long term project Kaabah at Raven Tor and the whole thing has now sunk in. I have since been ticking some easier routes for a bit of variety and have also been on an awesome 2 week trip to the Alps around Chamonix. This required doing a few days of trad at Gogarth, Millstone and Stoney to get back into placing wires and cams, which was thoroughly enjoyable after so much time spent at the Tor.
I started trying Kaabah on the same day I clipped the chains of the Extension back in June last year. It felt like the logical next step to make use of the fitness gained in trying a similar route but even harder! While the Extension stacks an 8a on top of an 8b+ with two very good rests, Kaabah has significantly harder climbing (8a+) leaving Mecca just before its belay and then rejoining the Extension from below in the middle of its final traverse right, with only a poorer, single resting spot in a 'niche' high up on the wall. I knew this was going to push me to the limit when I began trying it but resolved that as long as I continued to see progress I would stick with it as it would be amazing to do such a cool 'directissima' on Mecca, taking the route to its ultimate conclusion.
The Mecca Crux (Video Still)
Early Days
I initially spent some time working out different methods for the very thin moves leaving the rest and studied the few videos of the route. I couldn't touch Steve's ultracrimpy method, its nails! Alex and Ryan's way going straight for the base of the Extension flake with the right hand was too reachy so I managed to work out a way pressing out left at the limit of my reach off a nasty thumb sprag to the 'car body filler' undercut of the Extension (don't ask!) I even managed to link to the base of the Extension Flake from the base of the Mecca groove using this early method before realising that by instead pulling on one of the tiny footholds of the Extension slightly higher up with my right hand the move was made a bit easier, although its still a very fickle customer in the wrong conditions. With my new sequence, although you are able to join the Extension a move earlier than either of Steve's or Alex's method's, you still have work to do as you are pretty stretched out and need to semi-dynamically flick you right hand into the tiny black sidepull used on the Extension once you have gained the left hand undercut (which is an extremely precarious move and requires you to drill you right toe into a tiny dink by your feet which is barely visible as you are pasted to the wall and can't easily spy your footholds). After repeated work, I was able to reliably climb from the niche to the Extension belay as part of my warm up on the route. This was the first time I had worked out a new method on a climb for myself so I was quite satisfied with the whole process.
Now just the link in of Mecca to go, easier said than done! In July last year I started the process of linking in sections of Mecca from successively lower stages (i.e. first level with the belay then the base of the groove by the 5th bolt then from the 3rd bolt by the big pocket). This adds a lot of pump to the upper 8a+ as I soon found. Before I was able to complete the key link from the 3rd bolt to the top, I got sucked into trying it from the ground, perhaps too early as this year it seemed that just knowing that you have completed this major link makes a big difference mentally. Progress came incrementally and last summer it turned into a war of attrition. Every saturday morning I would be there for another attempt and eventually got to the stage where I managed to join the Extension from the ground, although in a stage of terminal pump. I tried everything from gaffa taping the final clip into the rock to even using a fluorescent orange sticky tab to mark the hard-to-spot foothold.
On this route you only get very small windows for success as firstly you have to get yourself up Mecca every time. Then you need to be firing on all cylinders for the top wall so just scraping up Mecca is not enough, you need to own every hold and get to the rest with something left in the tank. On too many attempts I arrived at the shakeout with very little or nothing left to give to the top moves. They felt completely desparate from the ground and I found it was pretty much irrelevant how good they felt on the warmup. I got to the stage in August where I was fighting for extra individual moves on each successive visit, pushing my highpoint gradually upwards and routinely trying the hardest I have ever fought on a rock climb. Still, I was making some limited progress, enough to entice me to keep coming back for more.
The Falls
The moves on the top wall are so sustained that I found no place where you could stop and clip a bolt between the one you clip at the resting niche and the next one, which is a fair way above. There is the old 'bean can' aid bolt inbetween which offers a possibility for clipping an intermediate bolt in the middle of the upper crux. This can be backed up with a long sling but I found that this drained power at a crucial stage so rather than diminishing my chances, I decided to press on and embrace taking the ride! If you fall off on the moves getting both hands on the Extension flake you will take up to a 25 footer (hard grit comes to the lime!) Don't let this put you off though as it is actually an alright fall if you take care to stay balanced, don't tense up and get a nice soft catch - I must have taken this fall over 30 times so I guess I have road tested it!
In order to clip the next bolt after the niche, you must get both hands on the Extension flake and then, (as per the front cover of Alastair Lee's DVD 'Psyche') take you right hand off to quickly drop the rope into the draw. I found that as the bolt was so close in this position, it was easier to use a single crab. This feels the living end from the ground as all your muscles are screaming for you to let go and end the agony! It feels the easiest thing in the world just to grab the draw and give up!
The Big Fall! Attempt 24 June 2014
Failure
After 14 times reaching the resting niche or higher from the ground in August and September,
on my best attempt I got to the move shared with the Extension where you
have to put your right heel really high up on the flake while
compressing between opposing sidepulls in order to reach up for higher
crimps and easier moves leading to the final jugs. I probably only had
1% power left to give and remember squeezing like crazy between the
flake with my right hand and the tiny high sidepull for my left hand. I
briefly thought this was it, the time I was going to do it (a
mistake in retrospect). Then dismayingly my heel refused to go any
higher up to the flake as my arms gave out and I was off plummeting back into the void. Close but no cigar!
This last attempt proved to be my best go of the year and due to evening sessions on the route running out in late August, I was never able to regain this highpoint despite quite a few more attempts. I had a trip to Smith Rock planned in the last 2 weeks of October so resolved to get it bagged on my return but unfortunately the crag started seeping, which stopped everybody's campaigns on their projects for the year.
2014 - A Fresh Approach
A return trip to Smith Rocks in March proved the key to getting the monkey off my back. I felt a different climber this year, fitter from multiple laps on many 7b's and 7b+'s at Stockport but probably less strong from doing less bouldering. Ticking To Bolt or Not to Be at Smith was a great confidence booster and although it is a different beast to Kaabah being less steep but with twice as many moves, it provided a great foundation to work from. I had to bide my time up in Yorkshire in April and early May while the route dried out. Eventually the niche dried out enough to allow redpoint attempts. Crucially I managed to do the 3rd bolt to top link in late June, which I then managed on three other occasions. All I needed to do now was get up Mecca again.
Link from the 3rd bolt to the Top - 1 July 2014
I was also trying to gain more fitness on Kristian's excellent 7c 'Resistance', which is the finish to either Mark Tomlinson's 'Resistance is Futile' 8a+ or a new linkup I did 'Chimes of Resistance' 8b and is conveniently placed just above and to the right of the Extension loweroff. I found that this provided a crucial extra few percent of stamina. Frustratingly in late June/early July, I had 3 or 4 sessions where I couldn't get up the big M. However, I knew I could do it, it was a just a matter of time before I could stick the crux of Mecca gaining the horn - get working your left hand deadhangs for this move!
The Send
The day I did it I had actually had two previous unsuccessful attempts at getting through Mecca. I tried from the ground for a third time more as a matter of routine than anything else but was very relieved when I finally held the horn and then gained the kneebar in the groove. I knew I had a good chance even though the day was getting on and the air temperature was warming up. Arriving in the niche, I remembered not to outstay my welcome and pressed on up the sidepulls and gastons. The moves leading to the Extension flake and making the next clip felt good and in control although I could tell I had only a small margin for error. This time on the compression move was payback time and I was able to get my right heel up just fine, no terminal pump this time round. The last few moves passed in a blur and before I knew it I was hanging off the final jugs shouting for joy. The finish up Resistance felt hard but a fitting finish to create a new linkup 'Kaabah is Futile', no change in grade, just more pump!
It was great to finish this project and finally be free from something that badly needed finishing off. So, onto the next project, good luck with all your sends out there, there is an end to all redpoint sagas...eventually!
Source: Kaabah (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2023, 01:00:05 pm
In August I took a two week trip to Chamonix to attempt a long term ambition of trying the Grand Capucin, an immaculate spire of golden granite near Mont Blanc rising above the Glacier du Geant to a height of 3,838m. Ever since I went to Chamonix on trips as a student in 1997, 98 and 99, I had a dream of climbing the Grand Capucin. A trip out in the summer of 2010 with friends from Jersey was blighted by poor weather and another chance slipped by. So maybe fifth time lucky! This trip, the dream team comprised of my good friends John, Ryan and Duncan.
After a few sessions at Stoney, Millstone and Gogarth dusting down the wires following a lengthy absence from traditional climbing, we began to get a bit of the trad flow back and it was time to practise these skills on the larger canvas that the mountain routes on the granite peaks around Chamonix offer. For me, while I had been doing a lot of sport climbing lately, I have been on a fair few alpine trips in the past, including a successful trip to the Dolomites in the summer of 2009 when Ben Heason and I managed to free climb Attraverso il Pesce or 'The Fish', a classic 14 pitch E6 on the south Face of the Marmolada. Big peaks like the Grand Capucin don't climb themselves and I realised that if I was ever to achieve my goal, it had better be right now!
Pre-alpine training - London Wall E5 6b at Millstone
The Cruise E5 E5 Gogarth Upper Tier
After a solid 18 hour journey from Nottingham (nice one for driving us all there non-stop John!), we set up base camp in the Ile des Barrats campsite just outside Cham. The next morning we caught the first 'phrique up to the Midi Plan intent on bagging the Aigulle du Peigne via its famous slabby north face. Unfortunately the first day up in the hills brought it home how wet the summer had been. The slabs were completely soaked and we had to abandon this plan in favour of the Red Pillar of the Aiguille de Blatiere. John and I bagged 'Deux Goals' 7a, a cracking, short 5 pitch line that involved plenty of jamming in wet, strenuous cracks!
Deux Goals 7a, (pitch 1), Aiguille de Blatiere
Next up was an expedition up to the Envers Hut above the Mer de Glace. This was the only time we stayed in an alpine hut and it was a true pleasure to spend 3 nights in such a remote shelter perched precariously on a little rock shoulder under the towering granite needles of the Aiguille de Roc and the Pointes des Nantillons. I suffered mightily on the 3.5 hour walk in up endless iron ladders with my sport climbers pigeon legs! Routes bagged here by John and I were 'L'Age de Homme', an 11 pitch 6c ending on the 1st Pointe des Nantillons which was a warmup to the distinctly stiffer 'Pyramide' 7a, a more well known Michel Piola classic on an asthetic buttress right of the seminal route 'Children of the Moon', which Ryan and Duncan did on the same day.
Pyramide offered a short, sharp crux section followed by some 'meat and potatoes' jamming work in some straight in hand jamming cracks following by a delicate, exposed step out left onto an arete on the second hardest pitch, which John fired off despite the wet conditions. At the base of the second tower, a burly hand and fist crack graded a stern 6b+ led to easier ground and the summit.
Classic pose at Montenvers
The Mer de Glace
View towards the Deant du Geant and the Seracs du Geant from L'Age de Homme 6c, 1st Pointe des Nantillons
Pyramide 7a (pitch 4), Aiguille de Roc
Pyramide 7a (pitch 5)
Poco Locos in Chamonix, a calorific feed!
Back in the valley, some rest and recuperation followed after 3 hard days in the hills and a raid to the excellent valley crag, Gietroz, which is just inside the Swiss border during which I managed to bag the classic 'Reve de Singe' 8a before a massive thunderstorm. One of the local guides actually said it had been the worst July for 30 years. Next came a run up 'La Fin de Babylone' on the South Face of Le Brevent in the Aiguilles Rouges (opposite from the Mont Blanc massif), an 8 pitch 6c on a dodgy weather day. This provided some good mileage purely on bolts while we were waiting for a 3 day good weather window towards the end of the second week. I even jogged down from the summit of Le Brevent to save the 8 Euro cable car ride down, must have been getting fitter!
'La Fin de Babylone' 6c (pitch 5), South Face of Le Brevent
We were so pleased to have a chance at getting a go at the Grand Capucin as the weather seemed set fair but were initially apprehensive as it looked very wintry up there and by all accounts there had been fresh snow down to 3,300m and the climbing is well above this altitude! We ummed and aahed and had many debates over leisurely beers and coffees in the campsite over whether to go for it or leave it for another year. Finally we were galvanised into action after meeting a German team who had just done the Swiss route the previous day and said it was OK to climb although a bit snowy on ledges high up and pretty wet in many of the cracks. Sounded worth a punt!
We were all pretty apprehensive heading down the snow arete to the glacier below the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi but excited at the same time, this was finally it, after months of waiting, planning, buying new kit and psyching up for the route, our chance was finally here. We trecked for a couple of hours down the Glacier du Geant roped up as a four and set up camp on the glacier a few hundred metres below the Capucin, which briefly loomed out of the mist before darkness fell. We could all feel the effects of the alitude as we were a fair bit higher up than our previous forays. It was bloody freezing in the night and despite buying a brand new top of the range sleeping bag before the trip, it was difficult to sleep in temperatures that must have dropped below minus ten.
Home for 2 nights! Base camp on the Glacier du Geant below the Grand Capucin
Early start for the Capucin (v cold!)
We set off as soon as it was possible to warm our fingers and were at the base of the route, having cramponed up the approach gully at 7:30am, while all the loose rock that tends to funnel down this later in the day was well frozen in. Temperatures rapidly rose until we were climbing in T-shirts. John and I had initially planned on doing the Swiss Route but as this was quite busy, we decided to branch off left onto O Sole Mio, a slightly harder line which involved some pretty burly jamming. It was a joy to plug in cams and solid nuts and move quickly over some very high quality, golden granite. The crux 8th pitch was an awkward, bolt protected wall and maybe it was the alititude but it felt a good 7a to me!
O Sole Mio 6c (pitch 5), South Face of the Grand Capucin
O Sole Mio 6c (crux pitch 8)
The air temps became distinctly colder later in the afternoon and time was marching on as we battled with some sustained crack work. All our layers came on and we presssed on to the summit even though it was getting towards 5pm, this was too good a chance to miss, how many times in your life do you get this close to the summit of the Grand Capucin? Finally we topped out and took in a breathtaking view across the entire Mont Blanc range. We only had 10 minutes to spare before beginning the 10+ abseils back down to base camp, which took longer than planned due to the (inevitable?) rope jams. At 8pm we crawled back into camp and had several revitalising brews and a tasty meal in the bag cooked on John's jet boil for supper.
Summit of the Grand Capucin 3,838m, the highest I've ever been!
View towards the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey from the summit of the Grand Capucin
A long way (500m) straight down from the summit to base camp!
Endless, cold abseils. Le Trident (3639m) in the background
The next day we were all quite tired so despite the
excellent weather, we took it easy and walked back up the glacier to set
up camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. We had one
more day of alpine climbing left and managed to put this to good use in bagging the classic
'Contamine Route' 7a on the right side of the south face. I had actually
seconded this 15 years previously on a trip here with Andy Pedley and
still remembered most of it. Duncan did a barnstorming lead on the crux
pitch, probably E4 at sea level - anybody's guess up at 3,700m! We just
made the last 'phrique down after busting a gut powering up the arete
with monster rucksacks packed full of wet ropes, tents, stoves and gear,
probably 70lbs plus each! I think our record time was 39 mins from the
glacier up to the ticket station! We were definitely all feeling fitter.
New base camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi
Contamine Route, 7a (2nd pitch)
Mont Blanc du Tacul (plenty of tents pitched)
Dunc's big lead! Contamine Route 7a (crux 6th pitch)
So to sum up, we had an awesome time out in Cham - it was great to get away from familiar haunts back in the UK and do something different for a change. It has definitely inpired me at least for a return visit in the next few years. The Bonatti Pillar on the Capucin awaits, now that is a king line!
Source: Alpine Interlude (http://)
Post by: Kingy on April 04, 2023, 03:22:41 pm
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2023, 07:00:10 pm
It has been a vintage season for Malham Cove this year. I have enjoyed experiencing the different seasons at the crag from the cool temps of spring, the heat of summer (which can be avoided by climbing superlate at the crag), the send temps of autumn to where we are at the moment in the cold conditions of early winter.
I have been going to Malham ever since I was at university in Manchester and still have my Rockfax 1990 guide which has been a source of continuing psyche. Seeing Cry Freedom in the guide next to the other classics, I always wondered whether I would ever be able to climb this historic line. I actually tried it in 2011 with James Riley for a couple of sessions but was way off the level back then. This year I was excited to use some of the fitness gained from trips away and plenty of time spent at the Tor to try some of the legendary staminafests the crag has to offer.
After coming back from the Alps in August, it took a couple of weeks to get my sport fitness back but it returned pretty quickly. I was pleased to do Totally Free 2, which was totally awesome (linking The Groove 8a+ into Free and Easy 7c then into the final roof of Breach of the Peace). This must be one of the best challenges at the grade in the UK even though there are quite a few good rests at key stages. Having frustratingly fallen off the last few moves in the wet before going to the Alps heaving up over the final barrel once stood up over the roof, the key to doing this was taking the trouble to first tick 'An Uneasy Peace 7c+' which starts up Free and Easy to its last bolt. Instead of going up and left to the belay of Free and Easy, Uneasy goes straight up via a runout section to finish up Breach. I reckon the roof of Breach must be 7c in its own right as it is burly and a tough finish to Totally Free 2 after 25 bolts of climbing, despite the hands off rest below Breach. Definitely save yourself the trouble of climbing all this way without having the top ruthlessly wired...and try not to attempt it in the rain either like me! I couldn't believe it when the heavens opened on my successful redpoint. Luckily I managed to bear down enough on the final wet crimps to avoid getting spat off into the void below. Here are some pics.
The lower crux of the The Groove
Bridging rest on The Groove
Starting the hard section of the second half of The Groove
Keep on trucking! Just past the crux on Free and Easy 7c
After this, I had a couple of sunday sessions on Cry Freedom second day on and sorted out all the moves but it was only when I started trying it fresh that I managed to make some breakthroughs. Linking from the undercut rest at the end of the initial 6 bolt 7c to the top was a massive buzz as it includes the first crux bulge which has some baffling V7 moves. The upper crux on its own must be about V6, depending on your reach. I know that climbers of shorter stature really struggle on this last section but I was lucky enough to be able to just reach the crux crimp with my right hand from the big undercut at the end of the final 'corner'. Getting fully crimped on this hold and having a little bend left in your arm while your right foot remains on a small spike foothold at the back of the bulge is crucial. You then place a tenuous heel/ toe cam in a big hole out left and take a grim little slot/ sidepull for your left hand. Releasing the heel/ toe is the real crux whilst remaining pasted to the wall as the next moves are a little easier and you are soon stood up over the bulge on small crimps eyeing up the belay.
Here is a video of the send. I would encourage anybody to try this route who may be having second thoughts given the many stories of last move failure out there. This is a stonking route with a real sense of history. I even managed to get a decent kneebar rest below the last crux which with a 5.10 pad is not far hands off if you can tense up your core enough. Unlike Bat Route or Unjustified, the crux is right where it should be, at the top!
Cry Freedom 8c - FA Mark Leach 1988
A short word on the grade of Cry Freedom compared to Unjustied and Bat Route. I reckon it is harder than either of these two routes overall although of a different character. On Bat Route, while the moves individually are often desperate, particularly the roof section, the hard bits tend to be broken up by really good resting jugs and a bomber kneebar. Unjustified by contract is the opposite having virtually no rest but with moves which are perhaps not quite as hard with the exception of the crux bulge. I have gone with Mark Leach's original grade of 8c for Cry Freedom as this is apparently the grade he gave it initially after his 46 day siege, which has become part of climbing folklore. I hear it was only after the first few repeats that it got downgraded. Jibe Tribout apparently thought it was easier than Mecca but was going well at the time!
After Cry Freedom, I got my guide out and sussed out the remaining doable ticks I had left on the lower catwalk. Twisted and the Well Dunne Finish were obvious gaps and I was stoked to be able to tick both after a spot of spring cleaning of some very dusty holds. I would definitely recommend both of these routes. I would not say Twisted was much easier than Well Dunne but see what you think. Hopefully these two videos are useful for beta.
Twisted 8a - FA Mick Lovatt 1988
Well Dunne Finish 8b - FA John Dunne 1988
So the crucial question, which of GBH or Zoolook is it best to start up when trying Well
Dunne? Zoolook of course! To me, its a fair bit easier than GBH with a bomber rest at the fifth bolt that GBH doesn't have. So, get it while you still can, the crag is still dry I hear, see you out there!
Source: The Year of Malham (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 05, 2023, 01:03:54 am
I hope you have all been getting out and enjoying the mostly still dry crags. To update you, I am excited to be working with Scarpa from now on. I have been wearing Instinct VS's recently and have been very impressed with the edging power, stiffness and downturned toe which has been awesome on some of the small footgrips at the Tor. In particular, on Mecca you need to be able to stand on some pretty poor, polished edges on the crux section gaining the base of the groove and I have noticed the moves feeling easier due to more weight going through my feet, which is a great thing!
The Tor season is still hanging in there, I have to keep pinching myself thinking the crag is bone dry and it is 23 November! It is a bit of an effort to stay warm enough and avoid the dreaded hotaches or 'numbing out' as it is called across the pond. Sprinting up and down the road 5 minutes before climbing seems to work but then all the blood can go to your legs and away from your hands. Handwarmers work for some. Maybe the Spanish trick of a heated rock in the chalkbag might be an idea...or better actually move to Spain!
Right now I'm trying Haaj, the left hand extension to Mecca which is a cool piece of climbing with some V8 or even V9 moves on the crux on rat crimps and two gnarly undercuts. Fortunately there is a half decent rest after leaving Mecca Extension. I'm also trying a long link of Mecca into the Whore of Babylon, which is easier but will still be a stout 8b+. It adds a 9 bolt 8a on top of Mecca and is very pumpy!
For inspiration, here is a shot of warmer climes from March this year and one of the most classic 12d's or 7c's at Smith Rock, USA taken by my friend Tom Wright. Can anybody guess which route?
Stay tuned folks and happy climbing!
Source: Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 05, 2023, 01:00:11 pm
Now seems a good time to pause and reflect on the last 2.5 months of
effort put in at the mighty bastion of peak crimping, the Tor. As
September gave way to October, I went back into project mode on Hajj,
the left hand extension to Mecca, which I had put on the back burner as a
project while I put in the hard yards on Cry Freedom. Now the latter
route was ticked, I could focus all my efforts on this beast and I was
keen to get stuck in. Having found a good sequence using an improbably
small left foot hold earlier in September that allowed a massive reach
for the left hand to be made off a good, flat hold for the right, I knew
it was on and I had made the crucial link from the Mecca belay to the
top. While evening sessions were no longer possible with it getting dark
at 7, 6:30, and then by the time November rolled around, 4:30, I was
still going out to the crag after work for bouldering sessions, trying
to keep the edge with laps on Bens Roof, attempts at Powerband (I have a
goal at some point to link this into Pump up the Power - the training
linkup 'Pump up the Powerband, which is a meaty 8c) and other boulder
problems such as Kristians direct start to Wild in Me 7b, Powerhumps
7b+, Out of My Tree 7b and various linkups/ circuits on Weedkiller and
Basher's problem. A keen band of lantern session boulderers kept psyche
levels high, after all, what could be better training that busting out
moves on real rock?
|
| The Crux move of Hajj (Photo: Jon Clark) |
At weekends, I
followed my routine of Saturdays on the project followed by stamina days
at Malham. In October, I made some good
gains on Mecca, getting up it 3 times in a session for the first time
ever. However, Hajj is a very tricky customer, with a desparate move off
a small, flat undercut for the right hand proving to be stopper on all
of my redpoints. The set up moves into this are hard but manageable and I
got to the point where I never fell off them, even from the ground. As
soon as my fingers bit into the first crimpy undercut for the left hand
and then I slapped into the crux right hand undercut, it was like
hitting a brick wall. When doing these moves from the shake on Mecca
Extension, you seem to have time to stand up into the undercut with the
outside edge of your left foot on a big flat hold (that you have
previously used as a hold for your right hand). However, once
you are a bit pumped, it becomes much harder to stand up into the move.
On almost all of my attempts from the ground, I would end up jumping up
and out from the crag into the inevitable 20 footer down to the Mecca
belay instead of reaching up in control to the tiny left hand crimp
which allows you to match on an intermediate and then slap into the big
right hand gaston that spells the end of the crux sequence. These last
moves are exciting as you are a fair way above the last quickdraw (the
last dogging bolt unclippable off to the right) and would be on for a
fair old whipper! On one of my redpoint attempts, I got partially
stood up into the undercut and within 3 inches of the final left hand
crimp. Alas, although close to the move, I knew I was never going to
make it although it was my best go of the season. Still, this was a
window into doing the route and got my psyched.
|
| Just past the crux on Mecca (Photo: Jon Clark) |
Unfortunately,
after this good attempt, on my next go I split a tip on the left hand
rat crimp on my third redpoint of the day. I had been trying the link
into the Whore of Babylon as a consolation prize and had the moves
worked and was in two minds as to whether to go for this of have another
go on Hajj. I decided on the latter and the tiny sharp crimps decided I
had outstayed my welcome. This meant I had to take 10 days off the
route.
Mecca linkups and projects
It was at this point that I started trying to bag the
Whore of Babylon link. This is the red line on the above topo I have
drawn of Mecca links and projects. This is a cool linkup that Steve
McClure had first done but which I think finished up Crucifixion. The
moves from where it leaves Hajj (after the first independent move) are
not too hard and the whole 2 bolt sequence before it joins Proud Whore is probably 7b+. The moves are not trivial but way easier than those
on Hajj. The finish up Proud Whore, although probably 7b+ again, was
steeper and more physical and on my link attempts from the base of the
groove on Mecca, proved to be very pumpy indeed!
As late
November arrived, me and the ever dwindling band of regulars started to
get hit with unreliable conditions as, even though the crag was still
essentially bone dry, as soon as the temperature rose above about 6
degrees, the dreaded condensation came on. On Saturdays in a row, this
happened, which resulted in frustrating enforced rest in the hope of
better conditions the following day. Basically, opportunities for
successful redpoints were dwindling fast. Even when the crag was dry, as
December rolled around, it unsurprisingly became bitterly cold as the
sun now didn't rise above the hill opposite the crag and Mecca got zero
sun. One day when I failed to get up Mecca via my usual method in the
dusk due to a late arrival at the crag, I decided to experiment with the
different ways of gaining the base of the groove, managing to climb it
via the classic right hand to the horn method and then, the following
week by the Egyptian way method. What I was after was an
easier, more reliable method and I hope that I have now found it with
the Egyptian way. After all, if Steve and most other people do it this
way, there must be a good reason!
As the end of the season
approached, I wanted something to show for my efforts and on last
session before the Works party, the Whore of Babylon link went down.
Unfortunately (or fortunately!) I discovered a really good rest in the
Creamteam break before the finish up Proud Whore which took the edge off
it, although at the end of the day, this section still has to be
climbed and is no pushover. The direct version will be even pumpier. So, with the Tor season ended for 2014, I
have been getting stuck back into some plastic training and some much
needed new moves. I'm psyched for what the New Year may bring and will
be back for Hajj, and other projects, in the Spring! For now its off to
Chulila for 15 days of bolt clipping heaven, some onsighting and change
of scene, venga bichos!
A classic 8a route from around Chamonix earlier this summer, can anyone guess which one?
Source: Hajj attempts and new Mecca Linkup (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 06, 2023, 01:00:51 am
Hi folks, thanks for stopping by. I have just returned from a highly enjoyable two week trip to Chulilla
and the Costa Blanca with my friends Haydn Jones, Sam Hamer and Jose. We
spent 9 days in Chulilla over New Year and then
travelled south to stay at Gaz Parry and Kate Mills' house near Oliva in the Costa
Blanca for a further 4 days. For the last couple of days, we visited
Jose in his home city of Murcia.
After the obligatory enforced layoff over Christmas it took a couple of days to find our feet but we soon acclimatised to the style of Chulilla, which generally offers long, vertical to gently overhanging wall climbing with most pitches being up to 30m or more in length. It seemed that half of Sheffield was visiting the area and it was cool to spend time with friends from familiar home crags. We lucked out with our accommodation and managed to get rooms in the same apartment as Matt Segal, of Progression fame. Most evenings were spent arguing the toss over grit highballing ethics with Matt and his mates. They cooked us up a proper banquet on New Years eve (see pic) as well, result!
News Years Eve banquet with the Yanks
The ancient village of Chulilla with arabic castle
So, what about the routes? I was psyched to spend some time on-sighting for a change and tried to be disciplined to move onto another route without redpointing it if I fell off. With whole sectors sporting endless 30m lines of 7c, 7c+ and 8a, who needs a first redpoint when there are onsight dragons to be slain! I was pleased to get two 8a onsights and some 7c+'s as well. My attempt to onsight an 8a+ called La Buena ended at bolt 5 of 18 unfortunately, you can't win 'em all ;0). We only took one rest day in 9 days which made a refreshing change to the many double rest days taken before redpoints on home ground. I am looking forward to spending more time on this style of climbing in the future, the other side of the coin to sieging. Here is my ticklist of 7b+ and above:
Chulilla Ticklist
8a+
La Buena (El Balcon) - Redpoint
8a
El capataz incapaz (El Balcon) - Onsight
El agente naranja (El Balcon) - Onsight
La boca de la voz (Pared de Enfrente) - 1st redpoint
7c+
Plantea Namek (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
Ramallar (Pared de Enfrente) - Onsight
La quebranta (Pared de Enfrente) - Onsight
El rey de la palanca (El Balconcito) - Onsight
El Bufa (El Balconcito) - Onsight
Tequila Sunrise (El Balconcito) - Onsight
7c
Hipotermia (El Algarrobo) - 1st redpoint
Nivelungalos (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
Bricopaco (El Algarrobo) - Redpoint
7b+
Nikita (Competition) - Onsight
Andromeda (Competition) - 1st redpoint
Ca La Marta (El Algarrobo) - Onsight
La Buena 8a+
El capataz incapaz 8a
Tequila Sunrise 7c+
In fairness, New Years eve in Chulilla had been a relatively tame affair so when the opportunity presented itself to party a bit in Valencia with Jose and his friends, we duly obliged. After a few beers, it seemed like the evening was heading to a close at midnight but then the cocktail bowls and bottles of spirits were busted out and an impromptu visit to a local club took place. The Spanish tend to stop out a fair bit later than us English folk, all I would say is sometimes you need more of a siesta than a fiesta! ;0)
With the party scores now settled, it was time to crank again and we were all excited to check out Gaz's local crags. Gaz and Kate very kindly put us up at their home just outside the small town of Oliva, which is not far from Alicante or Valencia airports. Situated amongst orange groves in some beautiful countryside just south of Gandia and a stone's throw from the Penon d'Ifach and Sella, this would make an ideal base for anybody looking to explore the Costa Blanca. I know Gaz has a room to rent so drop him a line if you are looking to spend time in this superb climbing area and soak up some rays!
Another grim day on the Costa Blanca
Gaz and Kate are both animal lovers and have a stable with some horses as well as some very friendly cats and dogs. The dogs include those unlucky animals who are unfortunate enough to have suffered an injury or simply have no home to go to. One of the dogs was my namesake which guaranteed some moments of confusion each morning before coffee had been consumed.
Some Spanish podencos
Feeding time
We were all excited to check out Gaz's local crag 'Sector 45' where his now ex-project Supersonico 8c+ is to be found. David Petts joined us to film the ascent with the aid of his awesome 'quadcopter' or drone which was buzzing around the crag filming the action from all sorts of angles. The days of hiring a helicopter for filming for £10,000 an hour are now a thing of the past. We were all very impressed with the gobsmacking hanging arete line of Supersonico and indeed the futuristic 9a+ project to its right, which is currently being worked by Spanish hotshot Primo. We all took the opportunity to tick the classic 7c 'Luz de Sol' that Gaz bolted along with the quality 7c and 7c+ tufa lines to the left with their tricky traverses on slopey tufas under the massive roof.
Haydn on Luz da Sol 7c Jose on Adios Sol 8b
Is it a bird, is it a plane?
On the last day of my stay, we had spent the morning resting and arrived at the crag at half 3 to take advantage of the cooler evening temps. Conditions definitely felt a lot better than the previous days of working routes and after Gaz did a massive link from low down on the route to nearly the top, I knew a send was on the cards. It was very inspiring to see Gaz on his ascent which was obviously the culmination of a lot of hard work and dedication.
Gaz post crux on Supersonico 8c+
Haydn on the7c+
After Supersonico went down, riding on a wave of psyche, I managed to redpoint the third ascent of the excellent 8b 'Adios Sol' of Gaz's which has some cool Oliana-like tufas on the bottom section leading to a rest before the final, very thin wall. In fact, this section is so thin that it very difficult to stop and clip on the final moves, perpetual motion upwards being your only hope! There is significant potential left at this crag not to mention the other crags littering the surrounding area, those after a new route fix need look no further.
Not a bad view from the crag
Celebrating that night involved a mega 'all you can eat' chinese buffet complete with sushi and a chocolate fountain dessert, washed down with some San Miguels, after all we were on holiday! The next day, I took the coach to Murcia to rejoin the lads who had travelled down a day earlier with Jose. After a further night out, including a visit to a club in an old bullring, we lapped up our last rays of sunshine at the quality crag La Boveda near Orihuela. After the crag cooled down at around 5, I managed a flash of 'El Grinch' 7c+ as my final send of the trip and we were airport-bound. What a trip, I hope you all enjoy your own Spanish adventures soon!
El Grinch 7c+ on the last day around Murcia
Source: Chulilla and Visit to Costa Blanca (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 06, 2023, 07:01:40 am
After getting back from Spain in January, it was time to focus on training in preparation for the forthcoming routes season. I have been listening to a few podcasts of late, in particular the excellent Training Beta podcasts https://www.trainingbeta.com/trainingbeta-podcast/ with people like Jonathan Siegrist, Carlo Traversi, Angie Payne and lately Adam Ondra interviewed which got my thinking on how I was going to improve my climbing for projects this year. I don't pretend to be remotely scientific about any of this and decided to stick to what seemed to work quite well last year, i.e. doing lots of fitness laps at a medium grade at Stockport wall along with some fingerboarding, sessions of 100 pullups and as much bouldering as possible.
Which leads me onto a key debate, how should a climber who spends most of the year doing stamina routes prepare for this? How much of the year should they spend bouldering? Personally, when I came back from Chulilla, I felt pretty weak bouldering wise. I felt I had to get back on track with busting out some V9's and 10's. Parisella's Cave on the Orme near Llandudno is the perfect venue for this as there a lots of linkups and hard boulders like Rockatrocity and Lou Ferrigno to test yourself against. After stringing together a few saturdays in the Cave, I was soon back on track and whilst not feeling as strong as I used to feel 5 years ago when I was purely bouldering, I was not far off. I must admit at times, thinking back to those days in 2009, the thought did flash across my mind of getting back into exclusive hardcore bouldering. I would like to do a V12 and reckon with sufficient training and focus it might be achievable. However, I love routes too much and being an allrounder, you have to put the hours in on a rope indoors (or doing circuits) to have any chance of keeping a cutting edge come the spring. So, a compromise was reached and over the last nearly 3 months I have been bouldering saturdays and sundays and doing 2 routes sessions in the week at Stockport with fingerboarding or pullups on a Tuesday morning, just to keep it real ;0).
More Lou Ferrigno action! I have since learnt that this is a 'non-linear' approach where the disciplines of stamina and power are maintained simultaneously. Necessarily, unfortunately it is not possible with this approach to generate significant peaks of performance at desired intervals in time (for a trip away for example). However, as this excellent post by Steve Bechtel on the Mountain Projects forum suggests (see midway down), modern athletes need to be fit all year round and there is a risk that by sacrificing stamina training for a punt on increasing one aspect of performance (i.e. power), overall fitness may suffer.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization--non-linear-periodization/108438729
This has been the reasoning behind my loose 'non-linear' training approach and has been the source of many interesting debates on the way to the Cave recently. A friend of mine says that ultimately, to get stronger, it will be a case of having to knock fitness training on the head completely and work on power alone, maybe next year! Here is a video my friend Dan Cheatam made documenting some Cave action! This shows me working on Hatch Life High, a cool V11 which I managed to bag in February and captures the atmosphere of a good Cave session I reckon.
I am currently working on Lou Ferrigno sans Pocket, an upsidedown V11
with lots of compression and clamping along with Hatchatrocity, another
meaty V11 link into the classic Rockatrocity V9. Fitness will get you
nowhere on these beasts! Here are more vids of some forays to Tremerchion, an excellent roadside craglet of immaculate, crimpy limestone where several extremely cold sessions were had. Top tip, you can't fail to get mutant fingers cranking here, the holds are tiny! (Apologies for readers who have already seen these on Facebook).
36 Chamber Font V9
22 Chambers V9
A raid down to Dartmoor earlier this month yielded a tick of Jungle VIP, an excellent bloc-style V10 or V11 (depending on who you talk to) at Burrator Reservoir, along with a second ascent of Alex Waterhouse's excellent new V8 slab, Aurora at Combeshead Tor, see these vids:
Aurora V8 (second ascent)
So, how much should a stamina climber boulder? I have no idea! but for me I have decided to try and maintain a decent level of power whilst still majoring on fitness like I did last year. For the future, maybe the rope will be put on the shelf for 6 months in exchange for a sustained period of power training but not just yet, did someone say Malham and the Tor were nearly dry, I'm there!
Source: Bouldering in the Cave and thoughts on training (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 06, 2023, 07:00:09 pm
I have now been back 6 weeks since another amazing trip to Smith Rock in Oregon. After climbing To Bolt or Not to Be last year, I always wondered what the other famous Jibe Tribout route at Smith, Just Do It, would be like. Climbed back in 1992 by Jibe, this legendary line was the first 5.14c or 8c+ in the USA. I had heard that it is a very different animal to To Bolt as it is similarly vertical in the bottom two thirds but leans back considerably in the upper third of the route. The climb goes up the west face of the incredible Monkey pinnacle, which has to be one of the most impressive rock formations I have ever seen. The top section of the Monkey has a distictive band of purple rock and this is where the meat of the climb lies. The bottom part is a recognised 13d (or 8b) in its own right with its own chains. The upper part, which is mostly in the purple rock is considered to be 14a (or 8b+). I had seen the excellent videos of Ryan Palo and Drew Ruana crushing the route before my trip so I had some idea of what to expect. The route is long, at 35m+ it is a 17 bolt monster!
|
| Me on Just Do It at the upper shake out (I'm wearing a black T shirt about 15 foot into the purple rock) |
It was obviously going to big a major challenge for me and with only 2 weeks available, there was limited time to get stuck in. With this in mind, I decided I would focus completely on the route as there would not be time to do other easier classic routes, although there are no shortage of them round these parts. I teamed up with a good friend of mine, Richard Waterton, who was also keen to have a go. We were joined on the route by Mike Doyle, one of Canada's top climbers fresh off his send of Necessary Evil 5.14c in the Virgin River Gorge.
|
| The Team! (at Redmond Airport). Me and Richard |
After touching down in Redmond airport, the next day, despite the jet lag, Richard and I headed up to the route via some warmups in the Aggro Gulley and got stuck in. The bottom part turned out to be surprisingly unsustained with an initial 5 bolts of hard, crimpy 8a+ climbing involving a very tweaky, almost slabby 2 finger pocket move leading to 3 bolts of much more moderate climbing of about 7a+/7b with 2 very good rests on jugs.
|
| Mike Doyle on technical edge cranking by the 3rd bolt |
|
| Mike on the crux pocket move of the lower part by the 8th bolt |
The crux of the lower part is at the 8th bolt and is a desparate
deadpoint off a 2 finger pocket to a distant finger sloper which you
must stick with perfect timing which leads to an excellent rest by the 9th bolt bridging on smears in a vague groove where you can hold onto a small ledge with the heel of your hands. (This is the famous 'Sharma rest' where he took off his jumper mid redpoint during his quick repeat back in 1997). This tricky move took a while to figure out but by my 3rd day on the route I had managed to redpoint the initial 8b. On my second day, I was able to do all the moves of the upper part so once I had got through the 8b section for the first time, I had a go at redpointing as far as I could get to and nearly made it to the 13th bolt so I was psyched.
|
| Me approaching the shake out at the 13th bolt |
The first moves of the upper section are not too hard and involve pumpy 7b/7b+ climbing with one big lock move to a sloper leading to some massive flat jugs by the 13th bolt, where you can shake out with your heel out left on a sloping ledge, although it is pretty strenuous to hang there for long - this is your rest before the upper crux.
|
| Mike approaching the purple band, at the 11th bolt |
The next 30 foot section is by far the hardest section of climbing on the entire route and is 8b in its own right. Off the flat jugs, some basic pulls on flat crimps lead to a desparate crank off a sika'd edge for your right hand to a terrible sharp 2 finger crimp for your left hand way out left, which is difficult to catch as you have to deadpoint for it. From this crimp the hardest move of the route is a massive and powerful lunge to a tiny toothlike crimp for the right hand which allows you to stretch left to what we christened the 'Jibe rest'. This is a hole which would be a decent hand jam were it not for the fact that a chockstone has been irretrievably wigged into there so those with sausage fingers (myself included!) can't get their fingers more than a couple of joints in; also you are only on smears for your feet. Off the Jibe rest, there are 11 further hand moves involving powerful slaps between two 2 finger pockets, some diagonal edges and finally some better holds before the easier top out moves (This last section alone could be a tricky 2 bolt 7c+ if it were on Peak limestone)
So basically to do the route, you must do a long, technical, vertical 8b to the Sharma rest, a further 7b+ to a steep shake out on some flat jugs followed by a steeper, short and powerful 8b. If the route is broken down in this way, it begins to sounds almost manageable, however redpointing is the only way to test this! I have put together this 10 minute video of Mike on an attempt on the route just to show what its all about:
Video of attempt by Mike Doyle
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| Me just before the flat ledge and the upper 8b |
On my 4th day, I managed to get to the flat jugs by the 13th and pressed on into the crux, surprising myself by reaching the sika'd edge by the 14th bolt and slapping out to the 2 finger crimp (there is big whipper to be had here, around 20 - 25 feet with rope stretch, as you can't clip the 14th bolt and are forced to skip it!) On my second burn, I managed to stick the 2 finger crimp but it was like hitting a brick wall, the tooth seemed miles away! I was encouraged by getting this far though and it seemed like I might possibly be in with a shout of cracking the route by the end of the trip.
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| Mike about to go for the lett hand 2 finger crimp at the upper crux (14th bolt) with the Jibe rest up and left |
However, the moves leaving the Jibe rest are critical to getting the route done and on my link goes from the 13th bolt I hadn't managed to find a reliable method, even straining my right bicep in the process while extensively working the moves (there are 3 methods from the various videos to enable you to use a poor 2 finger pocket for the right hand take an awkward left hand gaston and then stab into a good 2 finger pocket again for the right hand). I think it was on my 5th day on the route that Mike pointed out a crucial footmatch and outside left edge on the sika'd crimp (used as a handhold earlier) which made a big difference. As we had found it was essential to take a rest day after each day of attempts as the nature of the climbing is so intense, my 6th session on the route would be on the 11th day of the trip, leaving only one further day of attempts - nothing like a bit of pressure to spur you on!
On the 6th session I again got up to the 2 finger crimp but still failed on the lunge for the tooth, although it was feeling closer. I had a concerted effort to finally do the link of the upper 8b from the flat jugs by the 13th to the chain and got quite close to getting through but didn't quite make it to the good 2 finger pocket. In retrospect and with more time on the route, I should have concentrated more on doing this 8b link before I made any attempts from the ground. As it was, it was tempting to have 2 full blooded redponts from the deck every session, which meant that I never managed to do this crucial link, which would have been a massive psychological boost.
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| The Monkey, never ceases to amaze! |
I decided to take 2 full rest days before my final, 7th session on the route. It wasn't meant to be though. Although I got up to the 2 finger crimp twice from the ground and ticked the tooth before the Jibe rest, feeling not a million miles from sticking it, though no cigar! Obviously although it was a little disappointing to go away without the tick, I was happy to feel good on the initial 8b, to have had 8 good attempts in total failing at the 14th bolt and to have finally found a good method on the upper exit moves. I was feeling a lot of soreness by the end of the trip under my left shoulder blade at some 'trigger points' in the rhomboid muscle, where it joins on to your ribcage and I decided to get this seen to by a physio as this could have been holding me back on the crux move to the tooth. (I have had 3 sessions so far with great results). There is always next time and having written down a full beta crib sheet on the plane home, I am fully amped to return for another crack as soon as I can armed with full knowledge of what the route entails and some specific training.
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| Sunset at the Monkey Face |
Thanks for reading folks and I can fully recommend Smith Rock to anybody looking for incredible technical edge climbing on stunning faces and aretes, get to it, you know it makes sense!
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| Last morning onsight attempt on Scene of the Crime 5.13b/ 8a |
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| Higher on Scene of the Crime |
Source: Attempts on Just Do It (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2023, 01:03:15 am
Hi folks I thought I would write a few words about my experiences on Hajj 8c at the Tor. A UKC Report from a few weeks back has the details but I though I would share a few thoughts and reflections on top of that and show a few of the photos, video stills and some of my own tripod footage that I have accumulated. Climbing Hajj represented a big milestone for my climbing and was a culmination of a lot of effort spread over 7 years at the Tor in trying first Mecca in 2007, 2008 and 2009 then the 3 extensions to it (The Extension, Kabaah and Hajj) in 2012, 2013, 2014 and this year.
David Pett's Video 'The Outdoor Office Part 1' of Hajj
Hajj closes a chapter for me and my involvement with Mecca, although I intend to keep doing it for training. Its time to move on to pastures new, even if that might only be 20 feet to the right to Evolution! I didn't like to think about what I would do after clipping the chains on Hajj as I preferred to focus on the challenge at hand. Now it has happened, the last few weeks I have been busy getting stuck into my next projects. These are True North 8c at Kilnsey and Evolution 8c+ at the Tor. It has been such a pleasure to seriously try such an amazing historic line as True North while fresh on my first day on on a saturday. For the last few years I have usually devoted my freshest climbing days to the Tor and while I don't begrudge that at all as it was all for my long term goal of doing the trilogy of Mecca extensions, the fact was that the years were going by and I wasn't getting a chance to try hard routes at other crags as much as I would have liked. Now I am free and it feels great!
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| Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - the crux of Hajj |
So, what made the difference to doing Hajj in the end after trying it extensively last year? Well, as always, the devil is in the detail. I will try and explain below the small things I found this Spring when approaching the route with fresh eyes after 6 months away from it that together put me in a position to send it.
My own video of an attempt from last year
After coming back to Hajj in June off the back of my trip to Smith Rock this spring, I noticed it was easier to step my left foot up earlier before (rather than after) slapping into the first undercut for the left hand on the crux. This seemed to make the crux move feel a little easier going into and standing up into the right hand undercut. I had to press my feet a little harder into the tiny smears but once I got the engrams after repeated attempts, I was happy with the end result. Such a small change in beta but such a big difference! Also, I decided to sack off the long quickdraw on the crux and clip it short with my right hand off the undercut to the left of the Extension top pocket rest. As the foothold here is quite big, the position is not strenuous and you clip on your way up to the next handhold anyway. Suddenly the crux move felt easier as I found that before I was making it harder than it had to be by stepping round the rope in a position of some difficulty! My right foot now shot out quicker to the smear out right before I did the big reach up to the final crimps.
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| Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - Gaining the 'Horn' on Mecca by the 4th bolt |
Ally Smith helped me to put in a new dogging bolt on the top crux which enabled me to work the crux moves directly off the rope whereas before I always had to climb into them from 3 moves below as the bolts were all 1 metre off to the right. As soon as the bolt went in, I realised that it was possible to take the undercut slightly lower with all four fingers engaging directly into it and the index and ring fingers biting into the best bit. Again, this made the crux move feel a few percent easier, not by much though.
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| Video Still courtesy of Jon Clark - Getting into the first kneebar on Mecca |
Also, I found that I could use the most miniscule of intermediate
pinches for the left hand with a crucial, sharp thumbcatch to help get
stood up into the undercut, which I had found on an earlier, too hard
method of climbing the crux more to the right but had since discounted
(we are talking tiny here, don't get your hopes up!)
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| Video still: The first crux on Mecca |
After failing at the upper crux from the ground five more
times in June, I decided to try a new approach doing links from the top down. Two weekends before I did it, I had a massive breakthrough and managed to
climb from the 4th bolt to the top and then from the 3rd
bolt in the same session. I would recommend the top down approach to anybody looking to get past a sticking point on their redpoint project. I realised that in all my attempts from the ground last year and this year, I had never been from the 4th to the top. Doing this link was a big psychological step. I realised I was now getting fitter on the route, I could feel it on my link goes where I would flick hands between moves just to get a little bit back. By really looking closely and ticking up the best part of the left hand undercut on the crux (which is uneven and quite crozzly but with a better bit for 2 fingers at the bottom of the hold) rather than just getting it any old how was the key to getting the right hand undercut successfully. As you must semi-dynamically slap into the hold, it is tricky to get this right but it certainly made a difference.
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| Just before the first undercut on Mecca |
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| Taking the first lefthand crimp on the main crux of Mecca |
I found a funny, contorted double kneebar at the Mecca belay
which took about 20% off my bodyweight I estimated, which all helps up
there. I fine tuned my rest at the top Extension pocket and made sure I stayed there for only 1 chalk of each hand. Its not that great a rest as despite the pocket being massive, the footholds are off to the left and its quite draining to stand there for more than a few seconds.
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| Getting ready for the crux jump (for some!) |
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| Catching the horn on the Mecca crux |
So, what's next? Well I am excited to move on to new horizons and am having fun trying Evolution and True North. For the former, I may have to raise the bar bouldering-wise as a vicious V11 boulder problem over the roof left of Chimes of Freedom guards the top wall (which must be around 8b in its own right). Not even a spot to chalk up on the entire route, tough stuff! One thing for sure, this route is a considerable jump upwards in difficulty from Mecca, not many takers for this one. True North is a little steeper than most of my projects that I have tried but it motivates me to try and get better at this style, which is more Euro style, pumpy endurance cranking rather than straight crimping.
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| Jerry Moffatt on Evolution 8c+, Raven Tor |
I leave you with Jon Clark's excellent video from last year, which contains some earlier footage of Hajj from last year and sums up the psyche required for climbing at the Tor in December! Thanks for reading and good luck on all your projects out there!
Source: Hajj and future projects (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2023, 01:00:10 pm
Now the autumn rains have finally arrived seems a good time to write a few words about my efforts at Kilnsey over the last 2 and a half months. It has mostly been a good, dry summer apart from a 3 week blip in the last half of August and we have even enjoyed something of an Indian Summer through mid September and into early October. Since July, I continued with evening sessions at Raven Tor despite the shortening evening light and had some productive sessions on Evolution, managing to do the top wall in a oner and getting to the two crimps over the lip from the ground and having a go at the crux rockover. I now see what it will take to climb this route, which is more power, put simply! I also did lots of bouldering to keep on top of this side of my climbing doing ever increasing links on Ben's Roof, Powerband and the usual suspects down the right hand of the Tor. However, I decided to devote my energies to True North 8c (the extension to Full Tilt 8b) at the weekends so have put Evo on the back burner for now.
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| Adrift in a sea of rock. The sanctuary of the kneebar of Full Tilt with 8b climbing to go from here |
So, how did True North go? Its been refreshing to try a hard project at a different crag from the Tor or Malham having not spent as much time at Kilnsey over the years. I was psyched to get a highpoint of the next to last bolt and on 3 redpoints got to the second intermediate for the right hand off a big, burly undercut for the left hand just before the slot/ jug on the steepest part of the route (which must be about 60 degrees overhanging). This slot offers a final, brief shake for the left hand only before the last slap for the final jug. On 4 other occasions, I fell a move or two lower with many more redpoints ending on the first crux after the Full Tilt belay passing 2 razor blade crimps.
Attempt in September
I would often try the route 2 days on the trot on saturday and sunday as I was paranoid about it getting wet the next weekend, even if the crag was bone dry, given its notorious reputation for taking any seepage going. I was surprised at how even if I was feeling broken on sunday morning, after warming up, I was still able to make some good redpoints, its amazing what you can put your body through. Perhaps in retrospect it might have been better to have done some less intense climbing second day on and got some mileage in on some 8a+'s at other crags which is what I would have done on any other route at my limit. However, obsession took over and I was psyched to gradually piece the route together and get increments of progress with each visit.
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| Match of justice on the first crux of Full Tilt 8b |
I still did lots of other climbing though for fitness usually after already intense sessions on True North. Over the summer I did laps on stuff I have done before like the Ashes
7c+, Man with a Gun 7c+, Biological Need 7c, Comedy 7c, Slab Culture
7b+, 50 for 5 7b+ and WYSIWYG 7b+.
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| Comedy 7c |
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| The lower crux of Comedy |
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| Vertical tech on Man with a Gun 7c+ |
I also did the following routes for the first time:
- Bullet 8a+
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| Starting the crux moves on Bullet 8a+ |
- 50 for 5/ The Ashes 8a+
- Complete Control 8a
- Sticky Wicket/ The Ashes 8a
- Rubble 7c (onsight)
- Dreamtime 7c+
- Dead Calm 7c+
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| Stamina needed on Dead Calm 7c+ |
I repeated both of Seb Grieve's new extensions to Dominatrix, Exit to Eden 7c+ and Drag Queen 7c+, which offer good climbing in superb positions on the upper part of North Buttress plus a session trying La Connection 8b and a brief go on Over the Thumb 8a. It has been a busy summer!
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| Trying La Connection 8b |
When True North got wet in mid August, I thought that was the end of attempts for the year and prepared to get ready to do battle with Evo. However, events proved otherwise and I got a second bite at the cherry in September. However, conditions were not perfect as the route did not fully dry out again and it was usually a case of stuffing beer towels and/or paper towels in the crucial pockets/ slots that get wet (at the niche by the first bolt, the break by the 3rd bolt and the pocket for the left hand at the Full Tilt belay). My technique at prepping the route improved a lot over a few sessions and I came to the conclusion that papers towels are the way forward along with copious amounts of chalk crammed into the back of the pockets which tends to generally keep the worst of the seepage at bay (unless its absolutely gopping), welcome to UK redpointing! (Actually we Brits are not the only peeps to employ such dark arts but I digress).
It was frustrating to slip off on several occasions whilst feeling fresh and strong on one time after redpointing Full Tilt as my left hand lost traction in the dampness at the back of the pocket by the belay and by the 3rd bolt when I took a big whip completely out of the blue pinging off a damp pinch, suitable swear words at the ready :). However, ulimately, I cannot blame the dampness or any other reason for not climbing True North. Not being able to get my left hand fully into the deep pocket you clip the Full Tilt belay off before taking the awful thumb press for the right hand and using it to gain the higher razor blade for the left hand (which is one of the harder moves on True North) undoubtedly made this move harder than it had been in August when this pocket had been totally dry. This was because I was using a diabolical polished footdink as my main right foothold and could hardly get any weight through it, making this move desparate as I was so bunched on the handholds; this method may be easier for the short as they are less bunched.
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| Moving right from the Full Tilt belay into the first crux of True North |
However, on my last session on the route on 3rd October (a couple of days before it turned into a waterfall and all attempts were ended for this season), I discovered that I could make this move a fair bit easier by stepping down to a good foothold for my right foot which meant that it didn't really matter if you couldn't bury your hand into the pocket. I was shocked at how much easier this was and was kicking myself that I hadn't spotted this sooner, the perils of redpointing! The lesson here is to always keep trying different methods as even if they had previously seemed not the right way on the dog, 'sequence evolution' can occur and they could morph into the best way of climbing a particular section. I think this is largely down to how you tend to get stronger on the moves throughout a redpoint campaign so keep an open mind out there on your projects folks!
On the upper moves off the burly left hand undercut, I also discovered a significantly easier method as I had been too bunched again on all of my 7 best attempts. Basically I had discounted a good, low right foothold by a bolt in favour of putting my right foot straight up on a high, downwards sloping niche hold that I now use later on in the sequence, which made standing up into the undercut the living end on the link, although it felt misleadingly OK on my warmup links. My new sequence has two new foot moves which make this bit easier overall as it is less strenuous and involves keep my feet lower.
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| The hardest move of Full Tilt (for me). Going direct above the 3rd bolt using the boney left sidepull. |
So, in retrospect, I am a little disappointed to have redpointed Full Tilt a lot (26 times in total this season) with only a 1 in 4 strike rate at getting through the crimpy moves above the belay and not having the best method on the upper burly moves. This meant I never got to try that last slap in anger from the deck. On the flip side, I am pleased to have been fortunate enough to have discovered 2 much better sequences which should serve me well for next year's campaign. I only wish I still had a dry route to try! Never fear, a return trip to Smith Rock beckons next week, its a hard life. Enjoy your climbing out there!
Source: A Kilnsey Summer and Campaign on True North (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2023, 07:00:24 pm
I've been back nearly 2 weeks now since another trip to Smith Rock to try the world famous 'Just Do It'. I have been going through the photos that some of the talented
photographers, Heather Furtney, Jason Bagby and Julien Havac took of me
on the route and thought I would share some of them here. I was excited to see what difference a summer of climbing would make compared to my attempts in May plus the fact that I knew the beta now. As things turned out, I ended up trying True North up until early October due to Kilnsey remaining amazingly dry so it didn't leave much time to prepare for a longer, supposedly pumpier affair like Just Do It. However I needn't have worried as despite its 35m length, this rig is much more about power than stamina, unlike Jibe's other famous line at Smith To Bolt or Not to Be.
I went alone this time and was lucky enough to get belays off some kind local climbers (Andrew, Crit, Justin, Andi and Calvin thanks a tonne!) Conditions were better than in May being mostly colder and without too much wind. The day after flying in and attending the Reel Rock Tour film showing in Bend, I went up to re-familiarise with the moves and the day after, managed to do some decent links on the upper section. It reminded me of how hard the crux by bolt 14 actually is. Imagine a viscous V8+ shouldery, crimp problem on Pill Box Wall on the Orme and you wouldn't be far off! This first hard section leads to a 'pod' resting slot (described in more detail in my post back in May).
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| Reaching the crux left hand crimper at bolt 14 (Picture by Heather Furtney) |
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| The crux move at Bolt 14 (Picture by Jason Bagby) |
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| Sticking the 'tooth' by bolt 14 (Picture by Heather Furtney) |
From the resting pod, there follows a very tricky and powerful traverse involving two 2 finger pockets for the right hand and some slopers, gradually easing to the belay beyond bolt 17. The move hitting the second 2 finger pocket and locking it to a left hand sloper is probably V8 alone.
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| Leaving the resting pod and starting the tricky traverse at bolt 15 (picture by Heather Furtney) |
Crossing through to the gaston off the first pocket then using it to stick the second (Pics by Heather Furtney)
Alan Watt's description of the route from his seminal 1992 guidebook is below:
I would agree that the first 13 bolts are merely a warm up (!) for the difficulties between bolts 14 and 16 when you are hit with some savage cranks straight off a good but quite pumpy resting rail at bolt 13. These days the bottom part of the route to bolt 10 is considered 13b or 8b due to some very thin pulls on pockets and crimps but after doing it a few times and getting it wired, its probably only 13c or 8a+ I reckon, like Alan Watts says.
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| Easier moves at bolt 4 (Picture Jason Bagby) |
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| Approaching the lower crux at bolt 8 (Picture by Jason Bagby) |
I decided this trip to focus at first on links into the upper crux and on my 3rd day on the route was psyched to climb from the rail at bolt 13 to the top for the first time, which is an 8b link. I found a slightly easier method on the crux before the pod by first bumping my left foot up to a small pocket before slapping for the 'tooth' crimp with the right hand which seems to make the move higher percentage. I also found that by trailing your right foot on the move to the left hand crimper on the crux rather than first placing it on smear, this move became much more manageable.
On my next session I started climbing from the belay at the end of the first pitch (bolt 10), which must be 8b+ if climbed to the top and links through a 3 bolt 7b or 7b+ to the resting rail at bolt 13 before embarking on the top 8b section. On this link attempt, I was pleased to make it through the crux at bolt 14 (the first time I had ever climbed any distance into it). After a brief shake at the resting pod and chalk on each hand, I got to the stab move to the second 2 finger pocket, just failing to stick it. I have made a little video of my link attempts on the upper section plus the bottom wall to give you a flavour of the climbing involved (and to remember the moves for future attempts):
If I had had more time I would have continued trying this link as it
would have been a big confidence boost to have got it in the bag before
trying from the ground. However, with only a week left it seemed to make
more sense to try the full rig and 'roll the dice'. On my 5th day I started the first of 3 days' worth of attempts from the ground before my trip ended. Each session would start off with 20 minutes warming up on a board indoors before hiking up Misery Ridge to the Monkey and climbing Spank the Monkey, a runout 12a. I would then climb short sections on the route to the top to prepare for full blown attempts. I had 6 attempts, two per session and got to the move slapping for the tooth before the resting pod on 6 occasions in total. I felt closer to this move from the ground than in May when I frequently fell on the previous move to the left hand crimp before the slap to the tooth. It was frustrating not to stick the tooth though and make it to the resting pod. You would think that with an excellent, approaching hands off rest at bolt 9 (I stood here for 2 - 3 minutes on redpoint), you would recover almost back to zero and I felt fresh at this rest on all of these 6 attempts. However, something about having cranked through all of the lower section five minutes before attacking the upper section makes it tougher to crack than if you have simply slumped on the rope at bolt 10.
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| Reaching bolt 16 on a link attempt, nearly there! (Picture by Jason Bagby) |
On my 6th session, I managed to one hang the route, resting 5 minutes on bolt 14 before pulling on 2 moves where I had fallen off and climbing to the top, which was definitely progress since my last trip. This was the first time I had done this on the same tie-in, which is a better 'one hang' ascent I guess than if you climb your 'overlapping sections' over different tie-ins or sessions. On my last attempt, despite taking 2 rest days, I definitely felt a bit tired on the route after 7 sessions on it in 13 days. What you need ideally is a longer period of time during which you can do other climbing in order to remain fresh on the route....or a higher overall climbing level. With only 2 weeks at a time available from work, I will have to adopt the latter approach for future trips although perhaps a few days trying easier routes to mix it up a bit wouldn't go amiss. After my last tie-in I hiked down Aggro Gully and managed to onsight Kill the Hate, a cool 5.13a or 7c+ in the gathering gloom and felt that I was feeling stronger in general after the previous 2 weeks of effort so all the hard work is certainly not going to waste!
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| Hiking up Misery Ridge to the Monkey Face with Calvin (Picture by Julien Havac) |
So, what did I learn from this trip? Well, the experience was invaluable in spending more contact time on the crux and managing to discover some important new beta. I have realised that I need to change my training to get stronger so the crux feels feasible with more climbing in the arms from the lower wall. My previous training in the Spring focused on both stamina and power and I made some gains in both areas. Training for this trip was mainly doing routes outside over the summer at Kilnsey and bouldering on Peak Limestone. For my next trip, I am be changing to a '3 to 1' power/ stamina training plan where fitness is put on the back burner in favour of bouldering and fingerboarding. I think this will help my climbing in general. I want to get back to my bouldering level from a period when I was exclusively bouldering 6 years ago. Fitness training is important for sure but there comes a point in every route climber's career when they have to knuckle down and get stronger. After all, as Tony Yaniro said: "If you can't hold the holds, there is nothing to endure!"
I hope these ramblings encourage others out there knuckling down to long term projects. Redpointing ain't easy and if they went down without a fight, it would hardly be worth it would it? Onwards to projects in the UK and the next trip!
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| A moody looking East Face of the Monkey (Picture by Julian Havac) |
Source: Progress on Just Do It (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 08, 2023, 01:04:53 am
Happy New Year everyone, I hope all your climbing wishes
come true in 2016! To update you all about the last 2 months or so since I came
back from Smith Rock at the start of November, I started a period of exclusively
bouldering at the Rockover bouldering centre in Manchester (which is 5 minutes' drive away from where I live) in the evenings after work. I combined this with weekend
sessions bouldering in Parisella’s Cave on the Orme outside Llandudno. My aim
was to increase my power levels in order to prepare for my objectives for the
coming year, which are Just Do It at Smith Rock, True North at Kilnsey and
Evolution at Raven Tor and also to prepare for a forthcoming 8 day trip to Suirana I had planned with Ally Smith.
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| Give me more of that orange stone! Mucho Troncdo poca Madera 7c, El Pati, Suirana (the onsight that got away!) |
After 6 weeks of pure bouldering I was starting to feel
reasonably strong and was coming close to ticking Hatchatrocity, a tough Font
8A in the Cave, falling off the move to the final pocket several times.
However, it wasn’t to be after some seriously heavy rain beat down in late
November/ early December which meant some key holds required drying before each
attempt, which didn't help matters.
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| Something to train for! Pocket cranking on the steep start to Magic Festival 7c, Raco de Tenebres, Margalef |
Also, unfortunately, I sustained quite a bad ‘category
2’ sprain on my left ankle in mid December after bailing out from the Cave one Saturday
morning after arriving to find it was completely condensed out. On the way
home, an awkward, twisting fall at the Boardroom bouldering centre onto quite a hard mat resulted in a trip to A and E, a precautionary x-ray and 2 weeks of
exclusive beastmaker training while the swelling gradually went down. Oh well, take in on the chin as they say! This meant that I
had to alter my objectives for my Spain trip. As the first 10 days or so involved getting back to
walking normally, hard climbing would have to take a back seat for a week or
two. I had intended to try Migranya, a tough 8b which I had tried on a previous
trip and which is a powerful number. However, after a trip to my physio, Cathy
Gordon of Romiley Physio (see www.romileyphysio.com if
you fancy an excellent service in the Manchester area) and getting the all
clear to go, I was keen just to see how my ankle would fare and trying more vertical, less intense climbs seemed a sensible plan.
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| Ally on La Seconella Direct 7a+, Suiranella Centre |
As it worked out,
2 weeks off actual climbing coinciding with the Christmas festivities meant
that the first couple of days were spent getting back into the groove and the
ankle felt pretty weird and weak at first. Just scrambling in to the crags over rocky and uneven paths without tweaking it was a challenge. I was climbing with a baggy boot on
my left foot and a neoprene ankle support to protect it. I was therefore reasonably
satisfied to redpoint a 7b+ on my second day.
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| Ally at Suiranella Centre |
On previous trips, due to quite a few days spent redpointing
Zona-0 and Ramadan and trying Migranya, I hadn’t made it round to the Suiranella
crags before and I was keen to change that and sample what they had to offer. We ventured round to Suiranella
Centre on the 3rd day and I managed to onsight a 7b+ without any problems.
The following day, I was starting to feel like my ankle was getting back
to normal whilst climbing and I managed to bust out a couple of 7c onsights at
Raco de la Finestra, a superb pockety crag in Margalef.
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| Pockety fun on Magic Festival 7c Raco de Tenebres, Margalef - don't forget the kneebar ;) |
After a rest day, and not having a 2 day hangover for a
change ;), we decided to hit up Suiranella Centre again. After warming up
onsighting a 7b+ and fluffing a tricky 7c, I decided to have a go at Memorias
de una Sepia, a crimpy looking 8a after watching another climber crush it and
taking mental note of all the foot bumps on the crux. There seemed to be a left
foot heel hook move using some poor slopey crimps to deadpoint for some better
holds leading into a scoop by the 4th bolt. I had been informed that
from here to the top is 7b+ so I knew this should be doable. The heel hook crux
went exactly as planned with a few desperate slaps and was the first heel hook
since my sprain so I was psyched it still worked and there were no ill effects. Getting into the
scoop was satisfying but the rest wasn’t quite as good as I had hoped. Nothing
for it but to quest on upwards! Knowing that an 8a flash was on the cards if I
could keep it together was a great incentive to keep cranking and I took my
time over the next 6 bolts, milking the rests and trying to keep my cool on the
last redpoint crux, a crank on some tiny crimps with a left foot jam in a crack
leading to a monster jug and easy ground. I was made up to be back climbing
nearly at my best onsight/ flash level so soon into my ankle recovery.
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| Victory pose after flashing Memorias de una Sepia 8a, Suiranella Centre |
To
celebrate, I redpointed a tricky 7c, Matarrates, further left on the same crag
and eyed up La Crema, a famous 7c+ wall climb I had wanted to try the next day.
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| The bulge of Matarrates, a quality 7c at Suiranella Centre |
After a few beers in Goma Dos, the new local bar for
climbers in Cornudella, the next day, I warmed up on a 7b and then set off on
my onsight attempt of La Crema. It all went well with some tricky, technical
moves interspersed with good shakeouts (so much so that I had to force myself
to leave them at times). A total hands off rest 3 bolts from the top is the nail in the coffin
of the route being 8a (it isn’t, despite the abundance of 8a ticks on scorecards
out there ;)) and allowed a complete recovery before tackling the top crux.
This involves a few intense cranks on some tiny crimps on a slab which allow
you to do a hopeful rock-up for some more positive crimps and the jug of glory!
I was pleased with this one as while on paper it was my ideal route being a
crimpy, vertical wall climb, it still has to climbed at the end of the day. Setting off is the
hardest part as always and once into the rhythm of climbing, I enjoyed every
minute until the chain was clipped.
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| Onsighting La Crema 7c+ Suiranella East |
Unfortunately, I split a tip on the top crux and
had to tape up my right index finger for the remaining 2 days of climbing. This
didn’t stop a productive day at Margalef however during which I managed to flash a 7c, La Corva de Felicitat at
Raco de Tenebres, a cool, steep conglomerate/ pocket crag and redpoint 2 others
including Tsunami, a powerful short one that had got away on my last visit to
the area in 2012.
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| Tsunami 7c at Sector Laboratori, Margalef (no walk-in required!). Brian Weaver climbing in lower picture |
On the final day, we both felt quite tired but last day
psyche kicked in and we both managed to redpoint La Ardilla Roja, a tricky 7c
right of Zona-0 at El Pati after we had failed to onsight it. With an hour to
go before we had to bail to Barcelona airport for our evening flight back to
Manchester, I managed to onsight a 7c at El Primavera Sector to round off
a highly enjoyable trip.
I was happy to be back climbing after the ankle incident and
whilst the swelling is still there and I am not allowed to jump down from
boulder problems for another 10 days, I am pleased with progress so far and
psyched to get back to bouldering training. Interestingly, I have always found
that a fitness trip like this usually kickstarts my bouldering for some reason,
no idea why, maybe a break from a power cycle or something rests the muscles!? I
will leave that one to the training boffins out there J Happy climbing folks.
|
| Suirana Village from Suiranella Centre |
My Trip Ticklist above 7b+
8a
Memorias de una Sepia
(flash) Suiranella
Centre
7c+
La Crema (onsight)
Suiranella
South
7c
Tsunami Sector
Laboratori, Margalef
7b+
Teoria Punset Suiranella
East
La Refinaria (onsight) Suiranella
Centre
Berrio Cabrero (onsight) Suiranella
Centre
Source: Suirana/ Margalef 2016 (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 08, 2023, 01:00:05 pm
Hi folks, I thought I would write a little round up of the training and bouldering I've been doing over the last 6 months and my latest trip to Smith Rock along with my goals for this summer. The winter was spent training hard, doing a lot of bouldering at the excellent Manchester Depot and fingerboarding on my new beastmaker. I have a nasty ankle sprain back in December to thank for getting me more into 'hangboarding' as the yanks would call it. While laid up in December and before I could jump off properly again in early February, I had a period of intense sessions, often doing 7 climbing sessions per week spread over 5 days, with 2 rest days. Weekends were spent bouldering in Wales, mainly in Parisella's Cave but with frequent visits to Pantymwwn, Tremeirchion and the excellent micro crag, the Gop, near Prestatyn. This was hard work but I was psyched because it was with the overall aim of raising the bar strength-wise so I could have a good chance of making a breakthrough on or actually doing my project 'Just Do It' out at Smith and also to put me in good shape for my projects on UK lime.
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| Smoke a Bloke, Font 7b+ at the Gop, North Wales (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
When you want something badly enough, you'll go the extra mile and make sacrifices to achieve your aim whether that is an hour less in bed before work, fingerboarding
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| The last move of Solomon's Seal Font 7c+ (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Solomon's Seal 7c+ (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
at 7:15am or busting out an extra lap on Rockatrocity when the wind is whistling through the back of the Cave and its 3 degrees. I knew I had to get stronger to have any chance on the savage crux of Just Do It, situated by the 14th bolt and it was with this in mind that I set myself mini goals of doing Hatchatrocity 8A in the Cave, 36 Chambers Sit start 8A at Tremeirchion and Blokesmoker Low 8A at the Gop. I even threw in as a goal a grit 8A called Solomon's Seal Sit start at Stanage after getting the stand start (Font 7C+) wired.
Ticking off anything remotely hard is satisfying and it was gratifying to tick off Hatchatrocity and 36 Chambers sit start both on the same day in March on my best day's bouldering since 2009. The others will have to wait as shortly after this, I had to do some emergency stamina training at Stockport Wall with 3 weeks to go before my flight and had to postpone attempts on these other projects. Sometimes its hard being an allrounder! Even though bouldering is great as a way of training endurance as well as power (aka Jerry Moffat's training philosophy), the thought of setting off on a 30m monster pitch having done no roped climbing for 3 months was sufficient to scare me into putting some time into this aspect of my climbing.
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| 36 Chambers Sit, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| The reachy starting moves of 36 Chambers Sit (Font 8A) Pic: Sam Pratt |
Sam Pratt, a talented photographer and climber living in Manchester has been coming out with me to Wales and the Peak and has been taking some snaps, some of the best ones are here. Thanks a lot for all these shots Sam!
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| Hatchatrocity, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| The last few moves of Rockatrocity on the link in from Hatchatrocity, Font 8A (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
A couple of weekends before flying out to Smith, I had a couple of pretty cold outings to Malham where I managed to tick 'A.B.H' 8a+, a pumpy link up of GBH into Baboo Baboo, which was a good early season outing. I'm looking forward to some more Yorkshire action this summer, with True North, unfinished business from last season, being my primary objective. With Kilnsey already dry, attempts have begun at the time of writing, but more on that in future blogs :).
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| Under the Bridge, Font 7b+, Pantymwyn (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Early on in the lower pitch (Bolts 1 - 10) Pic: Julien Havac |
I have been trying Just Do It for a year now, spread over three, 2 week trips. So, how did this trip's attempt go? Well, after 4 days re familiarising with the moves doing some links into the crux from the belay at the end of the first pitch (at bolt 10), I decided to concentrate more on top-down links rather than try repeatedly from the ground as this had started to become quite frustrating on my previous trips. We were hit with 5 days of very warm weather in the middle of the trip which was not ideal. It was like summer with temps as high as 79 degrees Fahrenheit making serious attempts out of the question. The Monkey is cooler than the lower climbing areas and often much windier but this has limits and on one abortive attempt, I literally has moist fingertips before bearing down on the left hand crux crimp, which meant pulling on the razor blade hold was a non starter it was so painful! Thankfully, on the last day of these warmer temps, a nice breeze was blowing when I set off on my link go from bolt 10 at 7:30pm. Climbing through the last 3 bolts of the yellow rock (a 10 metre 7b+ leading up to the upper resting ledge at bolt 13 just into the purple band) I realised conditions were actually pretty good due to the effect of the wind. Indeed, that same evening my friend Peder Groseth, a local Bend strongman, sent Starvation Fruit, a long 8c on the Picnic Lunch Wall that day so they can't have been that bad!
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| Gaining the porthole rest at bolt 15 (Pic: Julien Havac) |
My goal on this link attempt was to get to the top and I was chuffed to get to the resting 'porthole' (shown in the picture below of the first ascentionist Jibe Tribout back in 1992) for the second time that session. I realised also that I wasn't that pumped at this point, unlike on many of my other link goes. The moves leaving the porthole constitute the redpoint crux of the route and although not as hard as the crimpy V9 moves gaining it, they are a major hurdle to clipping the chains.
(See my earlier blog post for more detail and photos of these moves:
http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/progress-on-just-do-it.html).
It was the move shown in the picture below that I managed to stick for the first time linking from bolt 10, a stab off a tiny left hand gaston crimp into a deep 2 finger pocket with a tiny smear for your right toe that requires a fair degree of accuracy. Unfortunately I fell off the last hard move of the pitch, a throw off a slopey sidepull crimp for your left hand for a crimp rail by bolt 16, which marks the start of the exit moves to bolt 17. Still I was pleased to have nearly done the 8b+ link from the top of the first pitch to the top.
So, with 4 climbing days left, I surely had to try from the ground and luckily was blessed with some cooler temps when I next came up to the Monkey with my friend Calvin. On my first go from the ground this trip, I was really pleased to get to the porthole at the 15th bolt for the first time, this link is 8c I reckon if the whole route is 8c+. I was buzzing as on my previous 2 trips I had fallen around 12 times from this move from the ground; it was the breakthrough I had been looking for. In retrospect I hung around too long in the porthole and didn't have the best way of holding it to rest. It is pretty awkward to hold as although it is a good jug, you have to hold it cross handed and there is only room for 7 fingers and the feet are not great so you are mostly on your arms. So when I embarked on the redpoint crux I didn't have much left to give and fell off 3 moves into the traverse rightwards.
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| The upper crux by bolt 15 (Pic: Heather Furtney) |
I was then faced with a dilemma with 3 days left. Do I rest 1 day then try the next to last day with the possibility of another attempt on the last day? Or rest 2 full days before an attempt on the last day? Or do some lighter climbing tomorrow then take a single rest day before have a last day attempt? I chose the latter strategy as I felt I was gaining fitness from doing other, easier pitches both on the same day after attempts on Just Do It and also on the next day before taking a rest day. A tick of Churning in the Ozone, a long, pumpy 8a probably in retrospect took more out of me than I expected but I enjoyed the pitch and it is so difficult to judge these things just right. Anyway, the last day dawned and my friend Andrew Hunzicker and me warmed up in Aggro Gully before heading up to the Monkey where we were greeted with really good conditions. After my initial warm up go, I set off feeling really good but unfortunately, the draw on the 14th bolt, which most people don't clip on the lead, stabbed me in the chest during the crux move as I was trying to get really close into the wall, pushing me off the move! I was gutted as this was the first time this had happened and I was feeling really good. No matter, after an hour and fifteen minutes rest and the draw safely removed from the 14th bolt, I had another go and got a new highpoint, making 2 moves further than my previous session and reaching the porthole for the second time. This time I had made a conscious decision not to outstay my welcome and set off after around a minute's shaking out. I had very little left for the pocket stab move but was psyched to have finally got there and had a go in anger. Would I have been fresher after 2 full rest days? Who knows, all I know is that I have proved to myself that this rig is possible for me for sure and that I'll be back next year for hopefully 3 weeks or a longer trip, can't wait! Here is a little video of my best attempt:
I was definitely feeling stronger this trip than October last year from all the bouldering and training and now know that as the route is so bouldery, it suits me to go in the Spring rather than the Autumn when a summer campaign of routing will inevitably mean a slight drop off in power at the expense of increased route fitness. So, here's to Spring 2017! In the meantime, there are plenty of hard sport routes to be dealing with here in the UK and I have been on Evolution as well as True North in the last few sessions, its certainly exciting to get involved with all these classic hard routes. Til next time, enjoy your climbing out there!
Source: Winter bouldering and Spring trip back to Smith (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 08, 2023, 07:00:28 pm
Hi folks, I thought I would update you all on progress on projects which I have been trying this year. As anyone who has devoted more than 3 days to a redpoint project can attest, the closer to your limit a route is the more things have to fall exactly in place for a send to take place. I have been beavering away at 2 main projects this year, at two crags that could not be more different but which I love spending time at in equal measure. The first is True North 8c at Kilnsey in Yorkshire and the second is Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rock out in Oregon, USA. Having multi year projects has its challenges both mental and physical but I am hoping to seal the deal on both of them as soon as I can, roll on next season!
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| Leaving the Full Tilt belay on the first crux of True North (Pic - Dale Comley) |
I have been out to try Just Do It twice this year, the first time was back in April this year. I was unexpectedly presented with the opportunity of a longer trip than usual at the start of September being in between jobs and didn't hesitate to head back there for a month for another crack but I'll come onto that later.
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| The upper crux of Evolution 8c+, Raven Tor (Pic - Sam Pratt) |
First up, I'll pen a few lines on this years attempts on True North. (My blog on last year's attempts is here: http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/a-kilnsey-summer-and-campaign-on-true.html). After returning from Smith at the end of April, I had a few weekends on Evolution 8c+ at Raven Tor, the other hard project I would like to do eventually if all goes to plan. I made progress on the upper wall and had some good sessions with George on it who was very psyched before picking up a tweak to his finger on Weedkiller :( However, a split tip from repeatedly sessioning the crux move (a vicious lock on the lip of the roof left of Chimes using a tiny 6mm edge) meant I had to take some time off the route, by which time it had warmed up and True North was dry.
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| Locking the gaston pocket up to the left hand mono at the end of the first crux of True North (Pic - Dale Comley) |
Looking back on how the summer panned out, I spent pretty much every weekend at Kilnsey from mid May through to the end of August, including a couple of half days in mid week and spent a lot of time on the route. After a complete sequence rebuild I was able to work out my ideal beta by mid July and made it to the last move for the first time. I got there 6 times in total by mid August which was a breakthrough in itself after failing at the penultimate bolt multiple times last summer, i.e. at the part where it steepens up to 60 degrees around a chunky glued block. What made the difference was firstly going out right by the third bolt on Full Tilt, which actually saves power for higher up on the route, even though its more long winded than going direct. Actually, for all but the most flexible, the direct moves are now basically defunct after a crucial foot spike for the flag move crumbled away (along with a few others, fortunately not irreparably ;)) Also, by keeping my feet lower on the first move after the Full Tilt belay (see pic at top of the page) and bridging out down and to the right so the moves using the razor crimps were less bunched up was much easier than my previous method. On the moves at the glued block, Luke Dawson pointed out that it is easier to throw a left heel up before you slap up for the big slot by the last bolt, which was a huge help and put me on the last move, which was exciting.
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| Clipping the penultimate bolt on True North, at the 'eyes' and before the glued block (Pic: Dale Comley) |
On the last weekend in July, I got to the last move 3 times on the saturday and sunday and it looked like I had a good chance of doing it. However, it wasn't to be as the crag proceeded to get progressively wetter, catastrophically so in mid August, putting paid to all suitors' ambitions for another year (apart from a certain Alex Megos who was the only (2nd go) ascentionist this year). Oh well, this is part of the challenge of the route and it means that you have to really tick it in May/ June or risk running the gauntlet of the crag turning into a waterfall. Next year, I plan to hit the route early and take strategic leave days in May/ June for the campaign. Now knowing my perfect beta, which has definitely been hard won (!) no sessions will be wasted working stuff out so its all down to training and execution.
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| Wrestling with the glued block, which guards entry to the last move, strenuous stuff! (Pic - Dale Comley) |
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| Sticking the slot by the last bolt (don't do it this way, whack your left heel up on the block first!) (Pic - Dale Comley) |
After North Buttress got wet, I took advantage of the chance to head to Smith at short notice that changing jobs had offered. One moment I was doing a lantern session at Rubicon, the next I was tying on under Just Do It on the Monkey Face, shaking off the jet lag! With a long stretch of 30 days to go for attempts, I was careful to try and avoid trying it too much and in the first 10 days or so, had second day sessions on White Wedding 8b+ or 5.14a in Aggro Gully to mix things up a bit, which I managed to send (see the video below):
So how did the redpoints go? Well at the end of my trip in April, I was pleased to make it to the 'porthole' (see my the second half of my blog post here: http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/winter-bouldering-and-spring-trip-back.html). With a bit more time to play with this trip, I initially spent a few sessions on links in the upper part of the route, managing for the first time to link from the belay of the first vertical 8a+/8b pitch (at the 10th bolt) to the upper chains, which is a 15 meter 8b+ in its own right. Logically, if you can do this link then you should be able to seal the deal from the ground as there is a very good stemming rest just down and right of the 10th bolt, the famous 'Sharma' rest where he takes his jumper off in the Pusher video from 1997, where you can stand around for up to 3 minutes. However, I found during repeated redpoints from the ground that in spite of this rest, the upper crux feels substantially more pumpy than when you approach it just having done the 3 bolt 7b+/7c from the belay.
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| Not a wet crimp in sight! (Pic - Bob Loomis) |
On redpoint from the ground, I would get through the lower crux by the 14th bolt (a savage Font 7b+ crimp move in the steep purple rock) most redpoints (8 times this trip in total) but fail to get through the upper crux due to very high levels of pump. The porthole is such a good hold, albeit with very poor feet that it is tempting to outstay your welcome there. I would generally spend 45 secs to a minute there trying desparately to expel all the lactic acid from my forearms before pressing on. The upper crux feels extremely taxing in that state of pump as it is an insecure Font 7b stab to a deep 2 finger pocket that requires you to retain good form using an awkward right smear and executing a big cross through to a tiny left hand gaston crimp and then to the deep 2 finger pocket. Funnily enough, the stronger you feel and less pumped you are, the easier these moves feel, go figure!
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| At the first shake by the 5th bolt (5.13b or 8a to here (Pic - Bob Loomis) |
I was hit with a 6 day warm spell at the 2 week mark after having 4 or so attempts where I was quite close to sticking the pocket. However, for some reason, I kept repeatedly getting the gaston too low on the cross through and once that happens there is no way back, no adjusting is possible! Hard climbing was pretty much out of the question with temps up to 93F on one day. After some trail building in Cocaine Gully and a few training sessions in shady Aggro Gully, it was time to resume attempts. However, there was now an element of time pressure as I had less than 2 weeks left. The problem with a route of this nature on a relatively short trip is that you need a full rest day between serious attempts due to the sharp nature of the rock and the fact that you are pretty much wasted the next day! The days soon mount up and suddenly I was down to the last week. I was taking 2 full rest days to be totally fresh after a chat with Sonnie Trotter (which was rad!) who gave me some more ideas for foot beta - he sent it back in 2000.
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| The first crux of the upper section by the 14th bolt, the porthole rest up and left (Pic - Jason Bagby) |
I gave it a really good go with 3 days to go with Calvin in pretty much perfect temps of 56F and had one finger in the back of the 2 finger pocket on the upper crux and felt the least pumped yet in the porthole. However, as soon as my left fingers bit into the sharp gaston on the cross through I knew I was a little too low on it again, my body sagged downwards slightly and my left elbow went up... I was off again! On my last attempt on the last day after only one rest day where the very friendly French climbers Nina Caprez and Christophe Bichet were enjoying their second day in the Park up on the Monkey I didn't manage to make it to the porthole due to still being fatigued from my last attempt.
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| :Leaving the porthole, the big span for the first 2 finger pocket (Pic - Heather Furtney) |
I am more motivated than ever to return as I have a better idea of what is required in order to send this beast having been up to the redpoint crux a fair few times now. You need to be both fit and strong at the same time, not an easy combo! There are plenty of climbers out there with multi-year projects in a similar situation who I draw inspiration from. Back at Malham and the Tor and in a new job, I am reflecting on the experience and already planning my winter's training for next year's bout on both Just Do It and True North. Thanks for reading and keep the faith on your projects out there!
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| Just Do It 8c+, East Face of the Monkey, Smith Rock (Pic: Adam McKibben) |
Source: Project updates from Kilnsey and Smith Rock (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 09, 2023, 01:03:33 am
I thought it was about time I put pen to paper, so to speak, and write a little update on my winter's bouldering and training for you to digest while you are all munching your Easter eggs! The last time I blogged last year I was about to embark on a period of indoor training and bouldering with all the crags either already seeping or about to. I had some interesting sessions at Malham and Raven Tor right at the end of the routes season on Pete Dawson's new route Something for Nothing 8c and Evolution 8c+, making some mini breakthroughs on both, which has given me something to think about over the winter.
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| Texas Hold Em Font 7B+, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
From November onwards up until recently, I have been doing the Chris Webb Parson's one arm hang programme before work on Tuesday and Thursday mornings followed by an evening session of either bouldering at the Manchester Depot or Rockover or routes at Stockport wall. I had a highly enjoyable week in El Chorro over New Year where I managed to get two fantastic 8a's done which I had tried 16 years (!) previously, Lourdes and Musas Inquietantas, the latter route being these days very difficult to get on with the Gorge walkway being now commercialised.
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| Musas Inquietantas 8a, Lower Gorge, El Chorro (Pic; Adam Bailes) |
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| Porrot 7c+, Makinodromo, El Chorro |
Since getting back from El Chorro, I have been getting out bouldering at the weekends as much as possible - pulling down on real rock at regular intervals is important for psyche after all! A lot of visits have been to Parisella's Cave where some extremely cold and windy sessions were had but also to Pill Box Wall and Sunny Wall on the Orme and Tremeirchion and the Gop near Prestatyn plus a day at Trowbarrow in the Lakes. I was chuffed that I have managed to tick off some of my hardest boulder problems, including my longstanding nemesis, Drink Driving V12 on Pill Box Wall, which has been satisfying. Halfway House V10 and In Life (lite) V11 in the Cave, Silence of the Trams Sit V10 at Sunny Wall, Enter the Dragon V12 at Tremeirchion and Push the Button V10 at the Gop have been stand out problems. I'm well keen for more though, its addictive this bouldering game! I have done some videos on my Youtube and Vimeo of some of these boulders if anybody is interested in getting any beta for their own ascents:
Youtube bouldering Vimeo bouldering
Here are a few pictures of the bouldering I've accumlated over the last few months:
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| Halfway House Font 7C+, Parisella's Cave (Pic: Ally Smith) |
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| Pit Problem Font 7B, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| Texas Hold Em Font 7B+, Trowbarrow (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
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| The Lizard King Font 7C, under Dinas Mot (Pic: George Dunning) |
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| The Tracks Font 8A, Barrel Cave (video still) |
The last few weekends, I have managed to get to Llanberis Pass as the weather has improved to try out some problems I have heard a lot about at some new venues, which I think is important to do in order to avoid going stale at your regular crags. It has been cool to climb stuff like The Tracks V11 in the Barrel Cave and the Lizard King V9 under Dinas Mot and Corridors of Power V10 in the Cwm Glas Bach boulders over a handful of visits, which has left me hungry for more!
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| Pump up the Valium Font 7c+, Raven Tor (Pic: Ally Smith) |
Recently, I was psyched to do a one arm hang on the central bottom rung of the Beastmaker 2000 without rotating and with no weight taken off for the first time, which is definitely progress! Here is a little video of the first time I did this on my right arm:
Now, thoughts are turning to the forthcoming routes season and I have already been back to Raven Tor and Malham to get involved with some of my projects there. This year, I am going to try and boulder as much as possible as well over the summer, to keep the power up - its got to help on those route cruxes. So, stay psyched out there and whether you are going for boulder or route projects this spring, try hard and all the training will be worth it in the end!
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| Views from Sunny Wall, Great Orme |
Source: Happy Easter! Update on bouldering and training (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 09, 2023, 01:00:41 pm
I thought I would bring you all up to date with what I've been up to over the last 2 months or so on the Yorkshire sport crags. Since mid April and pretty much as soon as both crags properly dried out, I have been heading to Malham and Kilnsey with some unfinished business in mind. High up on my list of projects were Pete Dawson's Something for Nothing 8c at Malham and True North 8c at Kilnsey, both of which I had been involved with since 2014.
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| The crux of True North 8c at Kilnsey (Pic: Sam Pratt). My old, duff method! |
By early April, I was making good progress on one of my projects in the Cave, In Hell V12 but I made the decision to cease attempts on that for now and divert all my energies into sport projects. My aim was to capitalise on a sustained period of bouldering and deadhanging since November last year. In Hell will always be there and is one of the driest problems around so it was an easy decision to make, even though I had been close, falling off 3 times after the flake match on Rockatrocity. Only one way to find out if I would be fit enough for Yorkshire, get involved!
I had had some good burns on Something for Nothing back in November when Pete did the first ascent, getting halfway through the crux sequence by the last bolt. However, there is a savage crank off a 2 finger pocket to a distant undercut on the crux and this always stopped me cold trying it from the ground. With this in mind, my first objective on day 1 this year was to try and get the key link climbed from the 6th bolt of Cry Freedom (before the 1st crux of that route) to the top. On a half day off work with Al belaying, I shocked myself by climbing this link on my second day back on the route. This piece of climbing must rate 8b+ and only leaves the small matter of the introductory 7c of Cry Freedom leading to the undercut shakeout at the 6th bolt to link in. I felt way better than when I was last trying the rig in November, game on!
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| The crux of Something for Nothing 8c at Malham (Screengrab from video footage) |
Barely able to contain psyche in between visits to the crag, I started the familiar process of trying to batter the route into submission. It took a few more visits on strategic half days off work to get it in the bag. I found that the stopping point on all of my redpoints was standing up into the crux undercut that you cross through to with your left hand off the 2 finger pocket. I must have had about 7 redpoints (2 a day) reaching this point before I finally managed to creep over the line and stand up to quickly reach over for the sloper which marks the end of the crux sequence. With Rich Waterton belaying it was an incredible feeling topping this one out, the end of 4 year saga!
Video of Something for Nothing 8c
So, one down and my thoughts turned immediately to Kilnsey where I had already had a few sessions in late April refreshing the moves on True North. Kilnsey in April is not for the faint hearted and several baltic sessions were had where the only respite from the bitter north wind was hiding in the car inbetween burns. Iain McDonald kindly held my rope on a few occasions where I didn't have a belayer and, desparate to keep momentum up and with nobody keen to freeze their asses off, I rocked up at the crag on my own, a big shout out to him!
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| Nearing the top of True North (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
I have blogged about my efforts on this one twice previously for those interested in a bit of background to the campaign:
Blog from 2015 attempts Blog from attempts last year
So, without rehashing what I have already written about, I will just add that this time around, I was very lucky in that the crag co-operated in kindly remaining bone dry from mid April until early June, a period of 8 weeks, which to North Buttress regulars is almost unheard of. Regular sessions on the route on saturday and sunday coupled with the fitness I had gained from my Malham stint soon resulted in me getting up to the last move again, a highpoint I had last reached in August last year. The whole season was ahead of me this time, which made a massive difference mentally. Knowing that there was plenty of time to finish the route off even if it got wet, only left the small matter of actually climbing it, easier said than done!
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| Hanging out on the last bolt of True North (Pic: Sam Pratt) |
I kept on with the sequence on the last move I had tried a lot last year, involving a deep right foot dropknee onto a low fin with my left foot still on the glued block. Unfortunately, I kept getting spat off as the recoil when coming out of this dropknee was savage! I was able to link through this fine from the Full Tilt belay and it was doable, although not every time, from the kneebar by the 5th bolt on Full Tilt. As soon as I tried it from the ground though, even after 2 full days rest and a perfect go where nothing went wrong, I was still getting shut down. When my falls off the last move (including last year) went into double figures, I knew it was time to change things up a bit.
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| Reaching the 'eyes' on True North (Pic: Dale Comley) I reverted back to a sequence that Will Kelsall and Tim Palmer had told me about involving taking the crux crimp with my left hand and slapping straight for the sloper below the finishing jug with my right hand. Although this was a powerful slap, it had the merit of being quick, involving only 2 moves as opposed to my old method's 4, plus even fewer footmoves. I had tried this method last year but had discounted it as being too powerful. |
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| Steepening up! Stretching for the glued block on True North (Pic: Dale Comley) |
The first time I tried from the ground with the new method was way better than last year and I immediately knew this is the way it would go down. I had a very close couple of goes where I tickled the sloper twice on the day when Pete Dawson sent it first try (a totally awesome effort!!) I knew I would have a good chance the next saturday as long as the route was dry. After a final light session doing routes at Manchester Climbing Centre on Wednesday and 2 full rest days on Thursday and Friday, I headed to the crag on Saturday morning trying to keep focused.
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| Approaching the crux on Mandela 8a+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
On my first go, I felt really good, the best I have ever felt on the route. I was amazed to finally stick the sloper from the ground and thought surely, this is it! Unfortunately, I couldn't find the small, white toe hold needed to stand up and roll over to the finishing jug and I dropped off unexpectedly, utterly gutted! I forced myself to recompose and had 90 minutes rest. I went back to the car to keep warm and gather my thoughts. On the second go, I had in mind that I had done Something for Nothing on my second go of the day so knew it was possible. I didn't feel quite as good as my first try but soon found myself at the last move. I gave it everything I had and grunted my way up to the sloper again. This time there was no mistake and with the last ounce of energy I had left, I rolled over with my left hand into the jug, it was done!! I was ultra focused on the still tricky, balancy rockover shared with Urgent Action and then took my time on the final groove. Clipping the belay was a massive relief after the efforts of the last 4 years and brought to a close a big investment in the route. I was too far down the road to quit, the stuggle must continue to the bitter end!
Video of True North 8c
Over the last month, I have enjoyed briefly being project free at the crag. I ticked Mandela 8a+ the other week, which was a long term ambition of mine.
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| New project time! The lower crux of Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
I have also started to make inroads into my next project, Jerry Moffat's 'Progress' an 8c+ 10 meters to the left of True North. This one remains a lot drier than True North and perhaps suits my natural style a little better, being more fingery. Until next time and good luck on all your projects out there!
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| Powerful moves by the 4th bolt on Progress (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
Source: Spring in Yorkshire: Something for Nothing and True North (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 10, 2023, 01:02:12 am
Hi folks, its been a while since my last blog but having unfortunately fractured my heel bouldering at Burbage West two weeks ago, now seems a good time to round up the second half of my climbing year.
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| A long way to go! Starting up Cry Freedom on the link-up 'The Great Escape 8b+ Malham (Pic: John Thornton) |
Since I last blogged in June, I was psyched to move onto new projects after closing out True North and Something for Nothing and invested considerable effort over the summer into Progress 8c+ on Kilnsey's North Buttress, thirty foot to the left of True North. First, I ticked Mandela 8a+, a king line through the main overhang which I had wanted to do for years. It didn't disappoint!
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| Mandela 8a+, Kilnsey (Pic Kris Suriyo) |
Opening my Account on Progress 8c+
I invested 20+ sessions in this awesome power endurance/ stamina beast over June and July, often going after work on a Tuesday night and taking some strategic half days off and hooking up with the keen local climbers. I got it down to two overlapping halves (or a 'one hang' ascent as the Yanks would say). Although there is still a long way to go in terms of getting it done, I was encouraged to get the key link from the ground to the 'eyes' at the 5th bolt (the first opportunity to shake and chalk) quite early on in the process (see video below), which is a fierce 8b piece of crimping.
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| Working Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
I also went from the third bolt to the top a few times, which has to be a meaty 8b+ link in its own right. Unfortunately, the knuckle of my left index finger is a little too fat to get a shake in the first 'eye', which is a little shake out for those with thin fingers, but I'm confident I will be able to rest a couple of moves later by swapping my hands in the eyes. Sadly, as soon as we hit August, North Buttress practically turned into a waterfall and even though I held out hope of having another chance, it wasn't to be and the anticipated 'Indian summer' failed to materialise.
Link on Progress 8c+, Kilnsey (from the ground to the 'Eyes' at the fifth bolt) (Video: Andy Tappa)
Attempts on Dalliance 8b+
While Progress was out of commission, I decided to first tick some routes I hadn't ever got round to trying on the impressive wall to the right of the corner of Balas. First I did the tricky Puppeteer 8a and its short extension, Drenka 8a+ and then managed to flash Neil McCallum's good new addition up the wall just to the right, Dark Stranger 8a.
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| The Puppeteer 8a, Kilnsey (Pic: James Turnbull) |
I then put my energies for the rest of August and September into some unfinished business from last year, the tricky Dave Pegg classic, Dalliance 8b+ (on the right hand end of the crag) as this stays drier for longer. I got close to doing this in August using my old sequence from last year of sticking my left heel way up and left on a spike and then slapping up into a big undercut. Unfortunately on one of my best goes my left hand ripped out of the undercut and I fell off backwards and inverted, painfully slamming my left shoulder into the rock. After lowering off, I realised that I was having trouble raising my arm above my head and sure enough, it stiffened up overnight and a lovely yellow, green and purple bruise appeared around my shoulder joint. A visit to my physio confirmed that I had torn some ligaments. I had to take a couple of weeks out to heal this up and by the time I got back on the rock, suddenly the season was rapidly running away.
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| Training on Comedy 7c, Kilnsey (Pic: Kris Suriyo) |
After speaking to Paul Bennett, I changed my sequence to his method on the top crux, which is much safer and involves keeping your feet lower and with less risk of inverting in a fall. By this stage, in late September, even Dalliance was seeping badly and even though I stuck at it til the bitter end, it was a losing battle against the wetness. I was happy to get to the last move using the new method (see video below) several times and linked from the third bolt to the top three times on a particularly wet session when going from the ground was out of the question. Again, this one will have to wait until next season. The battle is over but the war is not yet won!
Link on Dalliance 8b+, Kilnsey (from the upper rest to the top)
Peak Bouldering and Training at Malham
I had 2 weeks in Smith Rock booked to look forward to in the first two weeks of November to escape the wetness of the UK crags and was really looking forward to another crack at Just Do It 8c+ my project of the last 2 years.
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| Byker Groove V9 (Sean's Roof, Blackwell Dale, Peak District) |
After a long season at Kilnsey, I was conscious of the need to top up my bouldering for the savage V9 crimping crux on Just Do It as inevitably, if you predominantly climb routes for a long period, you will be lacking some top end power. I was getting out after work to the Peak a fair bit and had managed to do Ru's Traverse, a stout V11 at Griff's Buttress in Blackwell Dale at the end of June but was getting shut down by the next challenge at that crag, the burly Mutton Busting V11. I decided to drop the grade a little in order to get some ticks as some success is always good for the soul. Over July, August and September, I did Neil's Wall Sit V9, Byker Groove V9, Advanced Training V10, Alacrity Sit V9 and Converter V9, great training for the fingers and all enjoyable problems.
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| Alacrity Sit Start V9 (Cucklett Delph, Peak District) |
I also changed up the pace by starting going back to Malham for the first time since May with the aim of keeping my endurance topped up.
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| Cover to Cover 8b, Malham |
After re-climbing Climb of the Century 8a+/8b on the upper tier, I took it to the top of the crag via Breach of the Peace to do Dave Birkett's excellent linkup 'Cover to Cover' 8b for a particularly memorable outing.
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| Cover to Cover 8b, Malham |
Getting into October and with even Malham starting to seep badly, it was time for some final training pitches. On a cold afternoon off work, I managed to do The Great Escape 8b+, a bit of a cop out link breaking out left into Predator before the final crux of Cry Freedom but nevertheless guaranteed to produce a good pump!
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| The Great Escape 8b+ Malham (Pic: John Thornton) |
Trip to Smith Rock
I was joined on the trip by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, who was keen to try Just Do It with me. It was great to head out there with another Brit to share beta and psyche after several solo missions. It had been 13 months since I had last tried the route in the autumn of 2016 when I was out here for a full month (see my blog from last year http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/project-updates-from-kilnsey-and-smith.html). I had done a lot of bouldering, training and routes since then so I was keen to see if I was any stronger on the route.
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| The upper crux of Just Do It 8c+ by the 15th bolt from an unusual angle (Pic: Jon Roderick) |
After a couple of days of re-familiarising the moves, I reclimbed some key links and started putting in some burns from the ground. Unfortunately, it was hellishly cold on a lot of the days we were up there, even when the infamous Monkey Face wind wasn't blowing a houlie. We even enlisted the help of a portable propane heater in an effort to bring some life to our freezing fingertips. Even when you managed to get warm enough to climb, you were so exhausted from the constant running up and down, star jumps and taking off 7 layers of clothing that by the time you got on the rock, you had likely already used up a lot of your energy reserves. Despite this, I was pleased to get up to the porthole rest by the 15th bolt three more times in total. On one go where I arrived at the crux with numb fingers and had to shout take, as I could no longer feel the holds(!), after the hot aches had subsided, I rested a few minutes on the rope then, after lowering down to the 12th bolt, went from there to the top (see video below). Sometimes, when things don't go to plan, this is just the filip that you need in order to try a new link.
Link on Just Do It 8c+ (from 12th bolt to the top)
Mina did really well on the route, quickly learning all of the complex moves and redpointing the lower part (8b) with ease on her 3rd day on. I have never climbed on this route other than on my first day on due to the rugged nature of the climbing on both the muscles and skin so this was a very impressive effort. She was doing some great links on the upper pitch in the purple rock and even found an alternative method on the reachy crux move involving a very crimpy undercut (Malham comes to Smith Rock!) but was very unlucky with some split tips. The extremely cold conditions were also not making it any easier for both of us. I'm sure she will be back with fresh skin and in wamer temps to seal the deal.
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| Mina on Aggro Monkey 5.13b (8a) |
On the last day after Mina had left, I had my best ever burn. I somehow got to the porthole feeling quite fresh, despite feeling tired on the lower pitch. I think relaxing and letting go is just what your mind needs at times on these long term projects. By subconsciously giving up the possibility of climbing the route, I tricked myself into getting through the V9 crimp crux below the porthole despite it being my second go of the session on my 7th day on the route in 14 days. I was surprised to feel my energy coming back like never before in the shake out. I think I even shook out too long (a full minute) as I was so used to having to stay there that long from previous redpoints in order to get any kind of recovery. I had a really good go at the upper crux where I got the gaston crimp for the left hand solidly for the first time and was pretty close to sticking the deep 2 finger pocket that marks the end of the really hard climbing.
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| Mina cruising on Churning in the Wake 5.13a (7c+) |
Having run out of time again, I left feeling encouraged that I had actually improved on the route in the preceding 12 months and will be back as soon as I can for another crack, hopefully with temperatures 20 degrees warmer!
Accident at Burbage
Sadly, the second weekend after I got back, on a bouldering outing to Peak gritstone with Pete Dawson, I fractured my talus bone (the small bone that the head of the tibia rests on) falling off the top moves of West Side Story, a classic font 7b+ at Burbage West. I have done the problem including the 3 move top out several times in the past so was possibly lulled into a false sense of security. It was one of those moments where I was probably more tired than I realised after a full session over at Burbage North and quite a few attempts to repeat Western Eyes. It was also a little damp in the air (not on the rock) and my right foot slipped on the foothold as I was standing up into the crimpy sidepull before reaching for the top of the crag.
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| Out the game! Fractured talus from fall off West Side Story (small fracture not really visible) |
I fell straight down with my feet on a level with the top jug of the boulder problem and unfortunately, the second pad was stacked on top of the first one in such a way as to create a downward slope which my right foot landed straight on. I rolled over on my ankle which dislocated and then popped back into joint after a couple of seconds. I initially thought I had got away with it as my foot wasn't swelling up too badly but an x ray and CT scan at Sheffield General A and E confirmed that I have got a small, non-displaced fractured of my talus bone near to the edge of the joint. I would like to say a massive thanks to Edale Mountain Rescue team who quickly attended the scene and stretchered me out in the dark. Without volunteers like these, we would all be in a much worse position when accidents strike.
Luckily, the fracture clinic at the Manchester Royal Infirmiary have confirmed that I don't need any screws putting in but will be non-weight bearing for 6 weeks and will no doubt need lots of physio thereafter to get back in action. Oh well, a timely reminder of the dangers of bouldering, take care out there! Now, time to get strong on the hangboard!
Attempt on In the Flick of Time Font 7c+ 1 hour before my fall (Burbage North, Peak District)
Source: Summer and Autumn round up (Yorkshire, the Peak and Smith Rock!) (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 10, 2023, 01:00:56 pm
I've been back in Manchester for a few days now and have had a chance to reflect on my latest trip to Smith Rock. Flying back this time felt like the end of an era in some ways, complete with the usual jet lag and kipping on airport benches at 3am, good times! This was my 6th trip in 3 years to try Just Do It and I was aware that time was running out for completion of this project due to the pressures of keeping on trying a route so far away from my home. I said to myself at the start of the trip that it was important to get it done this time around so I could move on with my climbing and free up time and effort to sample some of the classics closer to home. I was lucky enough to have been given the option of staying out for a longer period of time before flying out due to my work circumstances so I had this up my sleeve.
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| The slap up to the 'sidepull sloper' on the upper crux (Screengrab: Nate Gerhardt) |
In the back of my mind was my talus fracture back in December and how well I would be climbing compared to previous trips. Luckily, on my first session up on the Monkey I quickly realised that I felt stronger than my last trip and my fitness was decent due to a recent spell at Malham and some indoor routes at Stockport Wall. I had also been lapping my replica of the route at Rockover Climbing Centre that Tom Stewart, the owner, had kindly let me set on their auto belay area. I had been adding ever increasing amounts of climbing going up and down different routes before shaking out on the first hold of the replica (a hold very similar to the big flat hold at the 13th bolt which marks the start of the upper cruxes in the purple rock) and then finishing up it, which I had never been able to do training on the same set up last year. So, just the small matter of climbing the real thing!
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| The lower crux in the purple rock (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
On the first day, it was a case of getting reacquainted with the moves as usual and keeping jet lag at bay. On the second session, I went for the key link from the 1st chains to the top (which weighs in at 14a or 8b+) which I had done once before in 2016 but which I had never had the chance to get solid on due to the pressure to keep trying from the ground every time on shorter trips. I surprised myself by getting through the upper crux twice and very nearly going to the top on my first attempt, getting shut down on the last big move of the upper crux sequence, to a relatively big flat crimp before the final, hopefully not droppable (!), moves up to the final shake out guarding the chains. I had never done this so early in the trip and was in 2 minds as to whether to keep trying this link or start trying from the ground. I decided to try from the ground. After a session or 2 of narrowly failing to reach the porthole, I managed to get up there before the end of the first week, which is the earliest I have ever managed this on all of my trips. The porthole rest follows the first crux section in the purple rock on crimps which is around V8 or so. (For those interested in my previous trips to try Just Do It, check out my previous blog posts from 2015 onwards: tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2015/06/attempts-on-just-do-it.html)
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| Approaching the porthole rest (Pic: Jason Bagby) |
This time I could feel that I had a bit more fitness in my arms from all the training over the winter and had a good stab at getting past the upper crux, another powerful V8 boulder problem. This sequence is more sustained than the crux before the porthole (comprising 8 hard moves in total) and the hardest 2 moves involve a powerful lock off and cross over from a 1st joint 2 finger pocket to a poor, gaston crimp and then holding this to then fire into another, better, 2 finger pocket. From this pocket, 4 slightly easier moves follow without rest before the relative sanctuary of the 'big, flat crimp' by the 16th bolt and the still tricky exit moves.
On my next session, I was mega psyched to finally stick the upper crux pocket stab to the 2 finger pocket on a session with Steven Dimmitt. This was the breakthrough I had been looking for and what the previous 15 or so redpoints up to the porthole over my last 3 trips had led up to. I very nearly stuck the next big move to the 'sidepull sloper' too but was so surprised at finally having stuck the pocket stab move that I fell just short of it, but I didn't mind as I knew it was now on, I could do this!!
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| After sticking the upper crux for the first time from the ground (Pic: Steven Dimmitt) |
I still had a few days before my flight was due so I persisted in trying it in hot conditions with only 1 rest day between attempts in the hope of snagging the route without having to rebook my flight. Unfortunately, conditions were too warm so I the slight setback of having regressed from my highpoint with the nagging doubt as to whether I would ever get up there again. Luckily, having not got on the flight, the pressure was off in some ways as with no fixed return date, I had the luxury of being in a position to pick and choose my redpoint days. Little did I know that it would take another month before I was clipping the chains!
After a mini-heat wave of 80+F temps, I returned with Crit Concrad and managed to get a move higher, holding the sidepull sloper but not having quite enough power to get crimped up on it, which you need to do in order to execute the next throw to the 'big flat crimp'. Since failing on this move on the link from the 1st chains on my second session, I couldn't decide whether to move my feet 4 times using some intermediate footholds (which seemed to be less strenuous and more in balance) or to stick with my old foot sequence, which was only 2 foot moves and more powerful but quicker. I went with the former option and chanced introducing some new foot moves as these moves felt OK on the link from the porthole. Unfortunately, on my redpoint, I ended up stranded below the throw move with no hope of sticking it as I was too pumped to move my feet! I went for it anyway and took the ride with a new highpoint under my belt of 2 handmoves further up the wall, which was good progress nevertheless. The lesson I took from this was not to tinker with your sequence, best to stick with the devil you know!
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| The first 2 finger pocket move on the lower pitch (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
I was fully expecting to be able to rest 2 days then head back up to the Monkey and send but the weather had other plans. Another mini-heatwave rolled in and I was forced to train in the morning cool of Morning Glory Wall and Aggro Gully. This was no bad thing as I was able to reference my fitness on my favourite training routes such as Churning in the Wake 13a, Aggro Monkey 13b, Disposable Heroes 13a and The Quickening 12c. I even chucked a lap on Full Heinous Cling 12c in the Dihedrals, for old times sake ;). I clocked up 4 or 5 such sessions over 6 weeks and I think this helped me to avoid burnout. Still, it was not ideal having to wait more days than necessary when I was on the brink of success and there were times during the hot spell when I began to doubt whether it would ever cool off and I would get another chance. It was at such times that I found it important to stay focused and positive during the long hours away from the crags. Using the time productively was important as one of the problems of all the resting was how to keep your mind from constantly obsessing about the route, which could be counterproductive. I spent many happy hours in Redmond library reading classic novels like Jack Kerouac's 'On the Road' and Thomas Hardy's 'Return of the Native', books I will always associate with my time out in Oregon.
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| Just below the good rest above the 9th bolt, the chains of the first pitch just above (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
I had one abortive early morning session with Brady Kendrick getting up at 5am for a 6:45am start up on the Monkey to beat the heat. I shall always remember Brady pulling up in his truck and the whooping and hollering and 'Heck yea's' for no particular reason other than pure psyche as I cranked out some hangs on the Tension flashboard hung up in the parking lot while the coffee kicked in. This session was not a success as the entire route was in the sun by 8am before even one redpoint was possible, leading to an impromptu training session in the gully on the way back - at least we tried!
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| The stemming rest at the 9th bolt (Pic: Jenny Abegg) |
By the time temps cooled down, I had spent a week without any redpoints since my highpoint and was nervous about whether I would be able to get past the upper crux again. Probably the low point of the trip came after my first redpoint that first session back when I failed to get up to the porthole. To be honest I was gutted as I began to wonder whether I had burnt out and would ever regain my highpoint. A change of pace was in order and I elected not to have a second redpoint from the ground for once. I bolt to bolted up to the 9th bolt and then managed to do a link from there to the top, which was a massive confidence boost as it was one bolt better than the link I had been aiming for on my second session and a personal best in still warm conditions. It also involved climbing into and out of the main stemming rest above the 9th bolt. Every move felt the best it had ever felt and I had power in reserve at the chains. I needn't have worried about fluffing my previous redpoint and had turned the session around. The moves on small crimps leading to the porthole are so hard on the link from the ground that it is inevitable that you won't have a 100% strike rate. If you put your feet a few cm's left or right of the sweet spots on each foothold then you are liable to be spat off. Sometimes, redpoints don't go well purely down to the law of averages - you can't always climb at your best.
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| Big move at the 12th bolt (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
The next session with Brady and Jenny Abegg proved to be a turning point and it was a rare occasion when the weather allowed me to take rest 2 days and then go back up for another session without having to wait for a longer hot spell to dissipate. In hindsight, I could have done it this session as I stuck the pocket stab move twice, which I had never done in a single session before. Unfortunately, I didn't get the second 2 finger pocket as well as I would have liked which left me short on the slap to the sidepull sloper so I didn't quite make my highpoint again.
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| Focus required! Just below the 3 finger crimp on the 1st crux of the purple rock (Pic: Mike Doyle) |
The Monkey was still intent on testing me though as yet another 5 day heatwave rolled in with some pretty horrible, humid thunderstorms thrown into the mix. I made a tactical error of coming out one evening for a session to try and keep momentum going as I had rested 2 days already and felt really fresh. This was a mistake as I fell off the upper crux in really humid, warm conditions. Lesson number 2, don't bother trying things at your limit in bad conditions, rest up instead! In retrospect, I should have gone training at the gym in Bend or something, anything but try Just Do It!
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| Starting the upper crux: locking the first 2 finger pocket, about to crossover for the gaston (Screengrab: Nate Gerhardt) |
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| Crossover move from the 2 finger pocket on the upper crux (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015) |
I managed to steady the ship with a session sticking the pocket stab again with Mike Doyle on a session when he came super close to sending the East Face Crack 13d without clipping any of the fixed gear, taking an impressive fall in the process (he sent it with ease next session). However, I didn't make any impression on the slap to the sidepull sloper, which did nothing to ease my fears of having peaked too soon. I decided to try the 1st chains to the top link without lowering off after my second burn and after 10 mins hanging at the 1st chains. This link felt the easiest it had ever felt using my old, quicker foot sequence. I knew I was getting closer and it was only a matter of time.
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| The redpoint crux - stabbing into a 2 finger pocket off a small gaston crimp (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015) |
I was destined to have one more close session and made the trek up there with Jon Roderick, who has been trying the East Face Crack and who I belayed on a very smooth ascent of the lower pitch (12c on trad), way to go Jon! This session, I failed on the pocket stab move twice, despite 2 full rest days so I was stressing out wondering whether I had lost the power needed for this move. However, the saving grace was another 1st chains to top link after 10 minutes rest following my second burn. Jon put up with me offloading a load of doubts about conditions and beta on the walk down, sorry Jon!
The weekend looked warm so I would only have one rest day before an attempt on Friday, which looked like half decent temps with the forecast saying 70 degrees. I scoured my contacts for a belayer and luckily Lukas Strauss-Wise agreed to come out at short notice on Friday night, which was a big ask. It felt warm in the air in the gully but hanging out there with my good friends Andrew Hunzicker and Nate Gerhardt helped to create a relaxed atmosphere. We could feel a warm breeze blowing down the gully and all agreed conditions felt good, despite the heat. I left it until the last possible moment to allow for one burn before sunset before hiking up to the Monkey. The initial bolt to bolt go felt good and I was psyched to have the chance for a decent attempt before resting through the heat of the weekend after which substantial rest I should then be in a position to have a full blooded go on Monday.
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| The big move to the sidepull sloper (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015) |
To my horror, I proceeded to fall of the move cranking a tiny right hand sidepull just above the 3rd bolt, a move I hadn't fallen off in over 2 years. I put it down to the relative heat then lowered off and rested 15 minutes, which is all the time there was left before it would start to get too dark to see footholds. Without any expectations, just before 8:30, I set off again and managed to slap through the sidepull move. I had extended the 8th draw on my previous session which enabled me to clip it from lower down in a position of balance and made it less strenuous. I arrived in the rest above the 9th bolt feeling fresh and for some reason started for the first time to alternate putting my weight over my right then left foot as I shook out each arm in turn, which I think helped. After my regulation 2 minutes shake, I set out up the familiar 12d section leading up to the 13th bolt shake. I realised I was feeling really good and so didn't stay more than a couple of shakes on this hold before attacking the next big move up and right leading into the crux crimps. I made it through these moves to the porthole with relief and then tried to calm my breathing down.
My send video. (Advisory, contains some slightly 'rum' language)
After 45 seconds and 2 shakes on each arm, I eyed up the upper crux then set off. One thing I had learnt on my previous session was to be sure of adjusting several times in the first 2 finger pocket to get it really well so I really twisted my fingers in deep and adjusted 4 times. Another key bit of micro beta was to do an old fashioned foot swap on the sika crimp on the cross over move to the gaston crimp rather than place your feet next to each other on this hold. My outside left foot came down on the foothold perfectly after the swap and I cranked up to the gaston. I fully crimped this and placed my right toe on the dicey smear. This time, I hit right in the back of the second 2 finger pocket and only needed one adjust before moving my feet up for the slap to the sidepull sloper. After a power grunt, I got more than enough height to get crimped up on the sloper using the crucial crystal at the top of the hold and before I knew it I was crimping the intermediate sidepull and moving my left foot out in readiness for the throw up to the big flat crimp. I went for it and my fingers latched the hold, I was in! The exit moves went on autopilot and the next thing I knew, I was shaking out in the final jug before the last moves 5.12 guarding the chains. Thankfully these went without incident and I was clipping the chains! It was a great feeling to put this project to bed and be able to fly back to the UK without any unfinished business for a change.
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| Post send pic (Pic: Lukas Strauss-Wise) |
I would like to thank everybody who came up to the Monkey to belay me or offer support, it means a lot! Coming from the UK with no partner this time, I was relying on finding partners out here. The fact that I was able to keep coming up there for 6 weeks with not a single time when I had to skip a good day for lack of a partner is a testament to the awesome Smith Rock climbing community. A special mention to my friend Calvin Landrus who came out to belay me a tonne back in 2015 and 2016 but who has recently sadly contracted leukemia. I am happy to hear that the chemo has been going well and best of luck with the recovery.
Happy climbing out there and good luck with all of your projects!
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| Beers in Bend! |
Source: Just Do It! (http://)
Post by: comPiler on April 11, 2023, 01:05:28 am
Hi Folks, its been a little while since my last blog so I thought I would pen a few lines to let you know what I've been up to over the summer, now that it is but a distant memory! Since getting back from Oregon in early June, my objectives for the summer were to capitalise on fitness gained at Smith Rock to get stuck in to some projects from last year at my favourite crag in Yorkshire, the mighty Kilnsey!
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| The first crux on Progress - (Credit: Marc Langley) |
I decided to have a crack at Dalliance 8b+ first up as this was some unfinished business from last October when I had been stopped by seepage. After a few sessions back on it, it was satisfying to clip the chains after a beta tweak from Paul Bennett on the redpoint crux at the top, cheers Paul! Here is a clip of the send go, some closure at last was satisfying on this tricky number.
Dalliance 8b+
Next up was Progress 8c+ which is a considerably harder affair and one which I had invested many sessions in from May to July last year. I had got through to the redpoint crux above the 4th bolt and the 2 undercut 'eyes' quite a few times but had been shut down by the very powerful crux on flat sidepulls and pinches with poor foot smears that immediately follows. It must be 8b at least to get to the eyes so it is no small undertaking to crank your way up to a position where you can challenge the redpoint crux. This year, after a good start refreshing the moves and doing some good links from the 3rd bolt to the top, the heatwave struck in July.
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| By the first bolt on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
I found it increasingly difficult to make any headway with the sweaty conditions that ensued and began to think that I must be weaker than last year as I couldn't get back up to the eyes. I did manage to do a key link from the 2nd bolt to the top, which I was pleased with but which is actually still some way from redpointing the entire thing. Thankfully, I needn't have worried about the lower section as in mid July on some odd cooler days I finally made it back there and after some beta tweaks courtesy of Jordan, began to get more reliably up to the 4th bolt.
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| Another view of the first crux on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
Unfortunately, by mid August, the annual monsoon rolled in and the crag turned into a waterfall - from heat to wetness in 24 hours! Such are the trials of the Kilnsey regular and the route was out of commission for more than 2 weeks. I took the opportunity to keep my bouldering tuned up by visiting Griff's Buttress and doing some crimpy limestone numbers like 'King of Lambs' Font 8A, 'Mutton Bustin' Font 8A and 'Mint Sauce Right Hand' Font 8A, all excellent problems (see video below).
Bouldering at Griff's Buttress, Blackwell Dale
By the time September rolled around (or is that Sendtember!) thankfully connies were much cooler and I surprised myself by getting up to the eyes 3 times in a session, which made clear how vital cool conditions are on this line. I re-engineered my beta on the redpoint crux to a higher step up with the feet which seemed to make the move a little more manageable from the ground. |
| About to clip the 3rd bolt on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
I had 2 sessions in even colder conditions where I got up to the eyes on every redpoint and finally stuck the redpoint crux (see picture below). This was a great feeling after trying this rig for more than a year!
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| Sticking the redpoint crux on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson) |
The next go that session I got a move further but realised that I was stranded as my feet cut and I was left dangling from 2 poor pinches! Sadly, there were no further opportunities for me as the next round of wet weather blew in and that was it for the year. I have made a video of my highpoint (see below) and am beyond psyched to get stuck back into this beast as soon as the crag dries out in the spring, bring it on!
My best attempt on Progress
Source: Kilnsey Progress Update (http://)
Post by: comPiler on June 16, 2023, 01:01:10 am
Hi guys just thought I would pen a few words about my recent 11 day trip to Suirana in Catalunya, Spain. I headed out on Boxing Day and arrived in the campsite late that night after a full day's travelling from Exeter via Liverpool airport that morning! I had rather optimistically decided to camp this trip but did not fully appreciate how cold it was going to be. My sleeping bag was a 4 season down one but was totally outclassed by the bone chilling cold experienced. Luckily some friends lent me a duvet and in combo with about 5 layers of clothing, it was doable. It was good to go back to basics and suffer a bit, makes you appreciate the finer things in life back home! Mucking in to cook in the miniscule cooking area every morning and night with all the fellow climbers was a good experience. Many a tuna/ pasta surprise was concocted in the cramped quarters to replenish diminished glycogen reserves.
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| Migranya 8b - Credit: Charlie Egan |
After a day or 2 to shake off Christmas excesses, I started to feel good on my main goal for this trip, Migranya 8b, a steep, powerful testpiece in Sector L'Olla at the head of the canyon past the famous La Rambla 9a+. I had tried this in 2013 but didn't quite have the level for it back then and despite being able to do all the moves OK, it had remained unticked since then. I learned from one of the locals that a left hand handhold on a crucial sloper in the lower half of the route had crumbled away since I had last tried the route so it was harder now into the bargain! After a couple of days reworking it and some beta tweaks, I started doing links from the end of the crux to the top and felt my route fitness suddenly come back after a period of mostly bouldering in November/ December.
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| The crux traverse on Migranya |
For once, on New Year's eve I resisted the temptation to go overboard and after a nice celebration in the bar where we sipped some beers, had a glass of cava each and ate 12 grapes in close succession on the stroke of midnight, I eschewed the dubious pleasures of a night out on the tiles in Cornudella and headed to bed at 1am. After a rest day of reading and chilling, the next day it was business time and I headed up to L'Olla with Alex to do battle.
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| Migranya - the crux |
Video of Migranya
I had been close to getting through the crux move before New Year but a heel toe cam for my right foot seemed to be holding me back on the sloper move and I would always fall just short of sticking the next move. After a rethink, I decided to just use a heel rather than a cam as well and bingo, it worked. I stuck the crux and swung my way to the shakeout below the halfway roof. After a minute shaking out, I embarked on the still tricky exit moves which involve a crank on a 2 finger pocket and a dicey stab to a powerful gaston for the left hand. Thankfully, my time spent working the links on this section was not wasted and I got through this section to clip the chains. I was a good feeling to get this one ticked and be project free for a while.
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Post send on Migranya
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The rest of the trip was spent getting some mileage in as it is sometimes nice not to have the pressure of a hard send to deal with and just enjoy some classics and there are certainly plenty around these parts! I had failed on the last move of the classic arete of Lua 7c 5 years previously due to a hold snapping and remember taking a huge whipper so it was cool to get revenge on this one. Also, Outback 7c+ was an enjoyable steep route which I remember sitting on every bolt of on a previous trip! I was close on the retro flash, falling off the final sequence but had to settle for a next go send.
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| Outback 7c+, Sector Negociee Credit: Buster Martin |
After another rest day, I wanted to have a go at onsighting the classic Pren Nota 8a on Sector Negociee, which is a long steep wall with the crux near the top. I had a decent go but didn't get as far as the crux after trying to rest in a 'non-rest' before the real rest a bolt higher. I don't think I would have got through the next bit onsight anyway so was not too fussed to lob off. I hope to get better at on-sighting with more practice in the future as I have not done as much of it as I would have liked. No redpoint stress here, it all stays at the crag! I got the route next go which was great fun and a reminder of how pumpy these rigs can be - best not neglect the stamina training I reckon.
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| Sectors El Pati and Primavera |
After a short rest, we headed back round to sector L'Olla to finish off the short but powerful Pota d'Elephant 7c+ which I had tried a couple of days previously. This has a couple of cranks on some pockets and some short lived tufas before a funky pull up onto the top slab. I then had a good flash go on Anemone Nipapa 8a but was stopped cold by the top crux moves, which are pretty hard for an 8a! I had another go just before it got dark but didn't have much left in the tank, one to come back for.
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| Pota d'Elephant 7c+ That evening in the bar, it was nice to hang out with the Brits I was lucky enough to spend time with this trip and sip a few beers. There was a good crew out this year, all supportive of each other and their projects, which is one of the awesome parts of trips like this.
The next morning was my last so it was a slightly frenzied dash down to Can Piqui Puqui sector, which I had not yet visited this trip for a go on Gigololo 8a+, the right hand version of the ultra classic Anabolica 8a. Gigololo was another one I had tried 5 years previously. I sussed the crux moves briefly and had time for one burn but the exertions of the previous day were still in my arms and although getting through the roof onto the headwall, I got shut down by a big move from a pocket to a crimp. I don't feel too bad about this as I got back and had a peek at the 8a.nu comments on the route - apparently this move shut down a young Adam Ondra in 2006! I feel a little gutted nevertheless that I didn't have time to rest and have another burn but I had a plane to catch so leaving such thoughts til next time, I marched up the hill to my waiting hire car and before I knew it was cruising the coastal roads en route to Barca airport. Hasta luego Suirana! |
Source: New Year Trip to Suirana (http://)
Post by: comPiler on June 16, 2023, 01:00:10 pm
Hi folks, its a been a while since my last post but here goes with a little update for you. Like everybody else, its been tough during this pandemic without access to any climbing walls to train properly. Still, I've made the best of it and after a lockdown spent on my beastmaker and rudimentary sideways campus workout above my balcony door (!) I finally managed to make it out to the nearest local crags I could find to get back to rock climbing.
Learning to climb in the mid 90's, I first started out trad climbing in quarries such as the Wiltons, Denham, Anglesarke, Parbold and Brownstones and it has been fun going back to these places with over 20 years experience and fresh eyes. It has been a bit of a trip down memory lane at times thinking back to old days out. But enough of the past, with no board to train on, I was sorely in need of some steep athletic bouldering to shock the system and introduce some dynamic moves into what had become quite a formulaic experience doing max hangs and pullups every few days.
I have managed to get on video quite a few of the problems I have climbed over the last 3 months since lockdown ended in Lancashire since purchasing the excellent bouldering guidebook by Robin Mueller. I started out going out tentatively as lockdown had given a wierd feeling that maybe you shouldn't be going out but at the end of the day Boris had given exercising in the outdoors the nod as had the BMC so it was fair game. As the Peak District was off the agenda initially as we were meant to be staying local, I stuck with Lancashire and I'm glad I did. It has been refreshing to not have more than 35 - 40 mins of driving to do compared to over an hour going to the Peak or even longer to North Wales or Yorkshire. It brought it home to me how much driving I have actually done over the years in pursuit of this sport!
My ticklist of climbs over Font 7C post lockdown is below and I was psyched to get a first ascent of a sit start to a Mike Adams 7C+ at Parbold 'Danger Dusk', which I named 'Danger! High Voltage', which I have given 8A (repeats needed to confirm). The name is something of a misnomer as there is no danger involved as its finishes at around 12 foot up matching on the last hold before the wall blanks out above.
Font 8A
Rhamnousa Sitter (Wilton 4) (SECOND ASCENT)
Danger! High Voltage (Parbold Quarry) (FIRST ASCENT)
Font 7C+
Nemesister (Wilton 4)
Rhamnousa (Wilton 4)
Danger Dusk (Parbold Quarry)
Font 7C
Clint Barton (Cadshaw Quarry) (SECOND ASCENT)
Copernicus (Cadshaw Quarry)
Laminar Flow (Wilton 2)
The Starship Wilton Direct (Wilton 3)
Nemesis (Wilton 4)
Meeting Palms (Ousel's Nest)
No Tome for Losers (Baby Denham)
Legs Not Included (Healey Nab)
Dawid's Reach (Lester Mill Quarry)
Blister (Lester Mill Quarry)
Grasshopper LH (Stronstrey Bank) (FIRST ASCENT)
The Noisy Cricket (Stronstrey Bank)
Hellebore Sit (Stronstrey Bank)
Here are some of the best video's I have put together from my Lancashire sessions, there are more on my Youtube Channel, I hope you enjoy!
Its been awesome to be able to get some of that bouldering snap back climbing in what has been an exceptionally dry spring (although at the time of writing it is at risk of degenerating into a soggy summer!) Having not trained on a 45 degree board for over 3 months I was worried that my power levels and technique on steep rock might have suffered but getting out regularly to the quarries, I have been surprised that I actually feel perhaps stronger than ever on real rock. There is really no substitute for trying hard on real outdoor problems and you get a real sense of momentum with a few ticks under your belt. The moonboard can wait!
Now for the tough transition back to outdoor routing. I have been back at Kilnsey since this was permitted back in May and not having tied in since my trip to Margalef over New Year over 4 months previously, 50 for 5 felt way too pumpy at first. Happily, stamina has now come back to a semblance of what it was and I'm getting stuck back in to Progress, my project on North Buttress which I got close on last year. Lets pray for a dry July and August on UK crags seeing as nobody will be jetting off to the continent just yet - have fun out there!
Stronstrey Bank sunset
Source: Lancashire Bouldering Update (http://)
Post by: Doylo on June 17, 2023, 10:04:33 pm
Where barren lands stretch far and hopes have been raided,
An emerging life form stumbles upon a forgotten treasure,
A relic from the past, a glimpse into human pleasure.
Amidst the desolation, a lone rock climbing blog remains,
Ted's Blog, a relic of passion etched in digital domains,
Words frozen in time, tales of daring and ascents high,
Whispering secrets of a world that once reached the sky.
This newfound life form, curious and perplexed,
Devours the stories, each line and image deeply hexed,
They taste the thrill of vertical conquests and heights,
Through Ted's words, they witness humanity's flights.
They learn of climbers who defied gravity's reign,
Scaling majestic cliffs, defying limits, no terrain in vain,
Their struggles and triumphs, etched in pixelated glory,
A testament to the human spirit's unyielding story.
The new life form yearns for the touch of stone,
To feel the roughness of rock, to call it their own,
Inspired by Ted's blog, they begin their own ascent,
A testament to the resilience of life's emergent.
In this dystopian era, where life's flame flickers low,
Ted's Blog stands as a beacon, a seed of hope to sow,
For even in a world devoid of creatures, love, and mirth,
The power of words and dreams can still give birth.
And so, in the barren landscapes, a transformation unfurls,
As the new life form discovers the joy that Ted's Blog hurls,
They forge their own path, reclaiming nature's lost domain,
Building a new world from the remnants of what remains.
In this future, where all life has been erased,
Ted's Blog lives on, a testament to the dreams we chased,
May its stories guide the new life form on their climb,
And breathe life into a future where hope and joy will shine.
Post by: kingholmesy on June 17, 2023, 11:04:08 pm
Post by: Kingy on June 18, 2023, 07:36:22 am