UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on January 25, 2015, 01:06:10 pm
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STG regular climbing
LTG Back to where I was...
M: Osteo in the morning - gradual progression - movement to two week appointments (a good sign I suspect)
T: Had two molars removed first thing in the morning. Was very quick and painless - nethertheless, the copious amounts of local anaesthetic, associated bleeding and sore mouth things meant most of the day was a write off. Soup and more soup...
W: had to go into work - lots of snow on the Motorway, took 2.5 hours there, 3 hours back... knackered. But decided to have a beastmaker session.
I've revised my beastmaker routine now inlight of a couple of videos that were posted up... Firstly, I've been hanging pretty straight armed - with shoulders and arms 'engaged' (as in not fully slack) but not at the 10-15 degree angle suggested in the training vid.. This is interesting, as I can see now why the bent arm is not only maybe better for your arms/joints etc.. but also puts you in a better position mechanically to move or move the arm from that move.. so I have decided to start training all deadhangs with such bent arms. This hurt - they were not used to it!
Secondly, grips. As I understand it...
Crimp = Evil. Effective, but nasty to all things tendon in the hands.
Half Crimp = A little bit nasty, but much better than the evil crimp...
Open Hand = Angel. The best in terms of injury risk, but not necessarily the most effective....
Looking at how I climb (aside from fingerboarding) I really try and open hand everything due to previous injuries and I mostly do OK at this - especially on Grit... but due to the shape of my hands, when I open hand my pinky does nothing. Its not even touching the hold (its a fair bit shorter). Index and ring fingers are the same length - so same load. This is interesting (sorry it is to me - its probably really dull to everyone else) because my back two and especially pinky are useless - very weak. its a weakness I'm trying to improve. So its little wonder my little fingers are so useless when I hardly every use them... Therefore, in order to get that pinky working I've started half crimping everything on the fingerboard.. its a plan..
Th: Bad back has been feeling fantastic this week (probably the paracetamol and Ibuprofen taken for the tooth!) I went to the climbing wall. First time climbing and testing out the bad back in over 10 weeks. Lots of gentle traversing (that seemed OK) and some V1/V2 up and downs (no jumping off). Lots of focus on movement, slow gentle movement - some minor tweaks when rocking up/pushing and twisting but it felt alright. Even did some easy steep stuff to get the shoulders working. Home and ice pack on the back...
Fr: Back felt a bit sore in the morning. As I (probably) have two squished discs - back pain manifests itself via my buttock, via the sciatic nerve.. my back itself just feels perma stiff.. A little arse pain in the morning (!!) and it took a while to wear off. Its a real tough one to judge this - have I made the back worse, or is this the aches and pains I'd expect from not doing any climbing for weeks... Anyway, new look Beastmaker routine in the afternoon.
Sa: Went up to Blackstone edge for a walk in the snow/slush. This proved quite a back work out too - lots of uneven steps, sliipping etc.. the odd mini jarr... Oh well seemed alright and was great to get out of the house.. 2 of 3 Beastmaker in the afternoon...
Su: All injuries feeling OKish today, a little stiff, but alright now... A full BM set (3 sets of 3) with bent arms and half crimps - small and large holds...
Great to be back pulling again... seems to be OK - its a tricky balance to make between recovery and making things worse... Planning to head to the wall again on Monday for some more gentle stuff...
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Looking at how I climb (aside from fingerboarding) I really try and open hand everything due to previous injuries and I mostly do OK at this - especially on Grit... but due to the shape of my hands, when I open hand my pinky does nothing. Its not even touching the hold (its a fair bit shorter). Index and ring fingers are the same length - so same load. This is interesting (sorry it is to me - its probably really dull to everyone else) because my back two and especially pinky are useless - very weak. its a weakness I'm trying to improve. So its little wonder my little fingers are so useless when I hardly every use them... Therefore, in order to get that pinky working I've started half crimping everything on the fingerboard.. its a plan..
Interesting to me.
I have short little fingers too - they barely reach the dip joint of my ring fingers. (I can't bring myself to say "pinky", sorry) I do manage to get them on the BM small edges, but they're probably not bearing much weight. I throw in some sets of back three to try to train them up a bit. Back two? Ha ha no chance.
I rarely full crimp and am hopelessly weak at it. Discovered this week that I can hang a small campus rung for exactly half as long in a full crimp as I can open handed.
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Not sure whether it's that short - but does nothing open handing a small hold... I much prefer OH things.. But may be missing a little extra boost from that finger..
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/9b338f96ff1baf845ae6afd069076dfb.jpg)
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January Goals
V8 indoors or 1-4-7 on the campus board.
3 days out 2/3
Lose 2kg - done. Down to 74kg from 77.
Mon
Tue
Arch - Ancap.
Found it difficult to get into this, could really work out where in the new wall to try and set an AnCap problem. But it turned out the new system board was perfect. 8 Reps of 12 moves 3 mins rest. Core + Pullups.
Wed
Westway - 4x4's
better than last week. Starting sets with routes up to 7a+ then 3 much easier to complete each set.
Thu
Fri
Sat
Swanage
Didnt get much sleep + half the crag was a waterfall so didnt get much done.
A few easy things and tried two 7a+'s.
Sun
Seem to have come down with a horrible flu/cold. Crap!
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Not sure whether it's that short - but does nothing open handing a small hold... I much prefer OH things.. But may be missing a little extra boost from that finger..
My index finger is slightly shorter (in relation) than yours but the rest are pretty much the same in relation to the others.
So front three open handed, I still have to 'chisel' the middle finger to get them sit level. Back three works well, as they are in line and I'm about as strong with that as I am with front three, if not stronger. I'd say my index finger is the weakest to be honest but seeing as I can only mono the middle, it's hard to actually know and it may just be the way the fingers sit on holds that it feels so.
Maybe get the pinky involved by working the back three to start with?
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Lots of small, niggley aches and pains.
M - Knackered, picked up a sore calf on sunday, did some stretching. I can probably scratch together 30mins if I include walking to work. Bah. Slept for 10h.
T - Indoors, went to Hardbloc for a change of scenery, tough, tough grading, but fun, even the easy stuff needs a bit of technique which is rare for wall with such a large number of overhangs. Long session 3.5h, just did easy stuff with lots of rests.
W - Floor work, stretches, planks, russian twists.... 40mins
Th - Walked back from Champs-Elysee to home 50mins. Then did Duncan's 400 except the one-legged squats.
F - Indoor, Finished 3 blue probs, weights to finish - 2h, decide to have a go at some assisted one-leg squats, tough when I got home my knee wasn't feeling good.
S - Suprised to wake up with an O.K knee, walked to La Chapelle to pick up Indian supplies - 1h. plus shoulder exercises.
Su - J.A. Martin, got spanked, went to do the orange circuit, but the tops were still a bit damp and everything felt desperate. I'd only slept a couple of hours Saturday night that's my excuse. Knee aching, back aching. Play around on a 6A, fell from the second move and ached everywhere.
I need a break, ruined by Sharkathon and Duncan's 400. Cheers boys.
Weight 76.3kg. Finished off the christmas chocs/ biccies at the beginning of the week, then found a half kilo box of liquorice allsorts.
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M - Bouldered-felt shit, did ok. OS up to 7a/+, but then not a prayer on anything herder in the gym. In hindsight it was better than I expected. I haven't actually pulled hard in nearly two months, and had done a hard FB workout the day before. The intent was not to boulder, but to do an easy recovery session, but had to let off some steam.
T - Yoga - Huge core session
W - FB, Shoulder Str - ok, session. Consistently about 15% below where I was in October.
Th - Yoga, Active Rec -3x15 easy traversing
F - off
S - FB, Shoulder Str - good session. Better, about 10% off october.
S - Active Recovery
Lots of home and work stress this week, so not as solid of a week as I had hoped, but still a good week.
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I've revised my beastmaker routine now inlight of a couple of videos that were posted up... Firstly, I've been hanging pretty straight armed - with shoulders and arms 'engaged' (as in not fully slack) but not at the 10-15 degree angle suggested in the training vid.. This is interesting, as I can see now why the bent arm is not only maybe better for your arms/joints etc.. but also puts you in a better position mechanically to move or move the arm from that move.. so I have decided to start training all deadhangs with such bent arms. This hurt - they were not used to it!
Due to hold mounting issues, I did a wide grip FB set for a few cycles about 2 years ago. My pull strength got surprising strong. I've been thinking about sawing my BM in half so I can control the width. (also because the pockets are too close together.)
Secondly, grips. As I understand it...
Crimp = Evil. Effective, but nasty to all things tendon in the hands.
Half Crimp = A little bit nasty, but much better than the evil crimp...
Open Hand = Angel. The best in terms of injury risk, but not necessarily the most effective....
Looking at how I climb (aside from fingerboarding) I really try and open hand everything due to previous injuries and I mostly do OK at this - especially on Grit... but due to the shape of my hands, when I open hand my pinky does nothing. Its not even touching the hold (its a fair bit shorter). Index and ring fingers are the same length - so same load. This is interesting (sorry it is to me - its probably really dull to everyone else) because my back two and especially pinky are useless - very weak. its a weakness I'm trying to improve. So its little wonder my little fingers are so useless when I hardly every use them... Therefore, in order to get that pinky working I've started half crimping everything on the fingerboard.. its a plan..
I'm definitely a believer in training 1/2 crimp, but I wouldn't go full on first thing. build up to it slowly to make sure you don't hurt yourself :)
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I'm definitely a believer in training 1/2 crimp, but I wouldn't go full on first thing. build up to it slowly to make sure you don't hurt yourself :)
I can regular crimp all the holds on the BM (that 4 fingers go on..) so its feeling fine 1/2 crimping them.. Though I like to mix my repeaters up, ie small edge, med edge, small edge etc... rather than all small, all med... Fingers feeling alot happier than when crimping though... (takes less effort to peel them back to normal shape!)
PS - sorry to hear you;ve had a shite week,...
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STG: (January)
Indoor 7a redpoint. Sort of. The goal was actually a route inna upward stylee, but that would have been tricky - or bold - given that I have yet to tie onto a rope indoors this year. Did tick a 7a circuit at the bouldering wall though.
(March) indoor 7a route
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
Beastmaker 5A routine
Muscle-Up
Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
Winter pretty dismal here at the moment: too cold to climb, not enough snow for snowboarding. Glad I got a decent trip in at New Year, otherwise maintaining training motivation might have become a challenge.
M: Mobility, knee physio, hammer curls, core: 40 minutes.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. with M jnr. Boulder competition night. Spent as much time coaching / encouraging / brushing holds for M jnr as climbing myself, but a good time was had.
W: Read up on pec minor stretches (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14965.msg473131.html#msg473131). Performed same, and other thoracic/shoulder mobility stuff.
T: Fingerboarding. Did some benchmarking and discovered that I have improved my max hang time on a medium campus rung by 25 percent since November (yyfy). Also that I can hold a small campus rung for twice as long open handed as full crimping. In real life I almost never crimp anything, but if I want to start redpointing harder climbs with (therefore) smaller holds I should probably start learning/training. See gme's recent comments on being a natural open-hander and training crimps (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20459.msg472827.html#msg472827). But how is it actually possible to full crimp the slots on the bottom row of a beastmaker? The middle row gets in the way of my knuckles.
F:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. An hour's moderate bouldering to warm up then ticked my 7a project on the circuit wall (yyfy). Half an hour shoulder mobility/stability stuff.
s: Wall, Thalkirchen. 2 x 25 minutes ARC
Am working explosive chest-to-bar pull-ups as the road to a muscle-up (2015 goal: power maintenance for the older "athlete"). Progress on these feels good: can pull sets of three decent nipples-to-thumbs reps, and am starting to get the feel of pushing down at the top of the movement.
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There is a first time for everything!
My first power club post! :wave:
Sun - went to new arch climbing wall - mucked around on lots of problems
Mon - nothing - underweather.
Tuesday - Swissball core routine week 2 - routine talked about last week on threads
Wednesday - fb using bm app with about 4kg taken off did 5a routine
Think tomtom right about fb engaging arms etc more of workout.
But also fb is just that for getting strong fingers not arms etc?
Thurs - Swiss ball routine from Tuesday
Fri - nothing
Sat - arch - did some blues, worked on comp wall, and circuit board
Last week got about 1/2 way round white circuit and fell realised then it was a hard 7a!
Sun - arch - same as sat. Struggling on comp wall prob v4 and circuits.
Any technical ideas for hand cross over/ through on steep board?
Keep falling off as I move across holds?
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Wednesday - fb using bm app with about 4kg taken off did 5a routine
:bow:
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Wednesday - fb using bm app with about 4kg taken off did 5a routine
:bow:
Thanks muenchener
For all the beastmaster hype, the grading sucks!
In order to do 5a routine with body weight will either have to lose 4kg or get stronger?
Started at about 7kg a few weeks ago! So going in the right direction?
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My first power club post! :wave:
:wave:
Worked 7 days this week and a few evenings pretty late BUT...
Mon - Worked late. Rest day, knackered.
Tue - Worked late. 100 pressups. 2hr boulder and tried bloody hard - felt loads stronger. Much better on V3s. Best session in ages.
Wed - Worked late. Teatime boulder 1.5hr. Worked V3/4 and did some foot on campus stuff, but no structure.
Thu - Started a 15 minute blast at lunchtime which involves, pressups, squats, mountain climbers and wide-outs in sets of twenty. Managed 180 before I collapsed. Will get stronger on this. Tried the P90X ab ripper thing at teatime, again - some stuff okay, useless at others. 1hr yoga class in the evening.
Fri - 3hr boulder. Ticked a pesky V3, worked 3-5 and learnt lots of in terms of foot angle on holds. Felt strong for me in general. Left knee (medial) really inflamed, so need to watch that.
Sat - Worked. Felt like I needed a proper rest, so did.
Sun - Boulder. Finally ticked an awkward problem on the 30°... V0! Happy to get that :-\ Played on V3-5 but felt tired today (14 days straight at work now) but pulled some progress out of the bag. Felt really strong on the start of the V5 but the first foothold is what's playing up the medial ligament, so will stay off that now. Then smallest campus rail 5 x 20 hand movements with 6 extra on the last go. Foot on. Short rests.
Quite like the new set, lots of stuff that's just out of reach, both physically and technically but that feels doable in the six weeks it'll be up on the panels.
Started the week struggling for psyche but finished happy with what I got done.
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Not sure whether it's that short - but does nothing open handing a small hold... I much prefer OH things.. But may be missing a little extra boost from that finger..
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/9b338f96ff1baf845ae6afd069076dfb.jpg)
your beastmaker looks nothing like mine
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Interesting thing that pinky business - I love training on half crimp but I wonder if pinky injuries are common due to the shorter pinky not being worked in a crimp position usually and then when you bear down on a pinky that's used to just open handing -- pop.
STG - stay healthy and fit for a few low 7s in HK
MTG - boulder and trad more
Tuesday Outdoors
Started with sport - warmed up on 6a+, cruised a 6b+(repeat).
Switched to trad - Flailed on an airy, 6c finger-rail traverse. Followed a 6c clean.
Thursday Indoor steep lead wall w/ a girl from london who used to set at the Castle
Worked routes around 7a. Did some roof climbing -- everything changes -- definitely a weakness
Finished off with feet on fingerboarding.
Saturday Outdoors w/a friend from Germany
Warmed up on 6c slab. Did a 6a+(repeat). Sent a 6c. Cruised a 5a, sent a 6c(repeat), tried the crux of a bouldery 7a via TR.
Sunday
Yoga, :lets_do_it_wild:.
Good - sport lead gettng better and better. able to do moves dynamically and smoothly when the route is known.
Improve - trad head needs work. Need to learn to think clearly while being pumped so i can place gear and climb better when there are no good stances.
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Bit of a YYFY for me this week - ticked a 7C for the first time in ages, and for the first time since I restarted climbing. I've done it before, but years ago and I remember it feeling really hard back then too.
Mon: Early morning weights session - deadlifts, dumbbell snatches and kettlebell swings
Tues: Hangboard after flying home from Johannesburg in the evening. Tried one arm hangs on my 2cm rung for the first time in ages and pleasantly surprised myself. Did a modified version of the CWP workout and some repeaters.
Wed: 40 min trail run.
Thurs: Bouldering - evening session at a local boulder. Repeated problems up to 7Bish
Fri: 75 min hilly hike in a forest on the slopes of Table Mountain. Felt quite tired.
Sat: Early surf in really fun beachbreak peaks. Afternoon hangboard (modified CWP) and leg rehab. Heavy day.
Sun: Bouldering - repeated stuff up to 7Bish and YYFY 7C tick. Good to feel like things are starting to flow a bit more.
Overall a good week - weight is also getting consistently lower and I have kept up with the sharkathon.
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Inflammation of the left anterior deltoid :( Got a week of rest from real training. Only did flexibility, tai chi, and front squats. Met my accupuncture teacher yesterday who tried to balance out the heart/left arm vortex.
probably went up too intense and too quick after my recovery from nerve surgery with my shoulder exercises such as overhead press and upright row. Today it already feels better. Hope to start over quickly.
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86.8Kg
M -
T - School p.m. Some bouldering on the 50 degree (weak/heavy) and then working the 7c+ circuit (still not quite 2 sections).
W - Foundry lunch. Recovery / light AeroCap
T - School lunch. 7c+ circuit as per Tues. Better link.
F -
S - Arranged to meet Dave at Rivelin. Drove down the valley at 1230 through a heavy rain shower, but decided to take a look anyway. MK was wet, but we warmed up on Cool Runnings and tried the crimpy direct. Then headed over to Sparks. Lots of goes later managed to do it via big move off a pinch. Hard for 7B I thought. Great to be out on the grit again.
S -
Relatively quiet week climbing-wise. Off to Scotland on Tuesday to see how my ankle copes doing some winter stuff.
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STG - Train 4 times / per wk
MTG - Climb new project
M - Rest with some basic core exercises.
T - Indoor Bouldering session focusing on power. Moving dynamically between good size holds.
W - Rest
T - Beastmaker session. strength training. 3 Sets. 6 Reps. 7 sec on, 2.5 mins off.
F - Rest
S - O/D Bouldering Session. Good session. Climbed 6A, 6A, 6A+ and getting close on 7A+. Working 6C roof problem.
S - O/D Bouldering Session. Short session as was tired. Getting close on 6C Roof Problem. A Power endurance battle.
Solid Week. Weighing in at 73.7kg (lost 0.4kg).
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Heal fast Mindful - and excellent 7C Dom...
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STG- Maintain (and ideally improve) climbing abilities while making film.
MTG- New grades this year.
LTG- Dawn Wall onsight.
M- A bit of core.
T- Pressups, pullups, clean-and-press. Added weight on the bar- a mighty 40kg now :weakbench: :lol: :look:
W- Rest.
T- Notts Depot. Ticked off another comp problem- now on 10 points more than I managed last month. Worked some more hard stuff after. I find it very satisfying getting technical sequences for sections that I'm too weak to power through, even if I don't end up doing the problem.
F- Rest.
S- Rest.
S- Black Rocks filming. Superb day- lots of climbers (for Black Rocks) there, good atmosphere and got great footage of an inspirational ascent- well worth the three visits it needed. ;D Uphill carrying as usual plus pullups and front levers on parents' doorframe.
Utterly psyched by yesterday. Got a window to focus on my own climbing now.
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Looking at how I climb (aside from fingerboarding) I really try and open hand everything due to previous injuries and I mostly do OK at this - especially on Grit... but due to the shape of my hands, when I open hand my pinky does nothing. Its not even touching the hold (its a fair bit shorter). Index and ring fingers are the same length - so same load. This is interesting (sorry it is to me - its probably really dull to everyone else) because my back two and especially pinky are useless - very weak. its a weakness I'm trying to improve. So its little wonder my little fingers are so useless when I hardly every use them... Therefore, in order to get that pinky working I've started half crimping everything on the fingerboard.. its a plan..
Interesting to me.
I have short little fingers too - they barely reach the dip joint of my ring fingers. (I can't bring myself to say "pinky", sorry) I do manage to get them on the BM small edges, but they're probably not bearing much weight. I throw in some sets of back three to try to train them up a bit. Back two? Ha ha no chance.
I rarely full crimp and am hopelessly weak at it. Discovered this week that I can hang a small campus rung for exactly half as long in a full crimp as I can open handed.
Little finger about the same as yours tomtom but index slightly shorter. When open handing low slots with mid 3 my middle finger will be bent at about 120 degrees, when hanging all four fingers it's about 100. The only way of properly open handing is to perform mid 2.
And when half crimping the big slots the pinky is straight (unless I bury the rest of my fingers deep in the slot which doesn't feel worth it), doesn't feel like it's doing much but the hang is much harder without it so it must be.
I never full crimp on a fingerboard, it's my strongest grip but still feels dangerous.
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M Pilates
T Beastmaker weight vest hangs before breakfast. Gym for weights in the evening
W
T Kettlebell sess in the morning
F Toproped 10 easy routes in 35 minutes at the gym in the evening.
S
S Cratcliffe as we thought it was bound to have at least one boulder which would be dry. Did Low Slung which I dont think I'd even seen before
A busy week with too much work, but at least managed to get something done.
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STG - strength phase
Been snowboarding in St Anton all week, averaged about six hours out each day though the last day was with the kids so somewhat shorter and slower than the previous five which killed the averages somewhat, covered 210km and descended just shy of 40,000m. Ahead of the holiday I thought of it as a bit of active rest ahead of starting a strength phase but I'm feeling a bit too battered to try and pass it off as that now.
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STG: Another V7.
MTG: V8
LTG: V11
M: Sissy Crag. Bunch of stuff up to V4. Got on Rebel Scum V7. Wasn't far off doing it. Shouldery as all fuck.
T: Indoors. Warmed up bouldering the quickly moved to weighted campussing and fingerboarding. Did 1-5-7 for the first time ever.
W: Indoors. More campussing and fingerboarding. No weighted stuff but did 1-5-7 3 timesin a row.
T: Night work.
F: Indoors. Campussing and fingerboarding mainly.
S: Train back home to Nowra.
S: Drive back to Syd. Indoors in the arvo. Worked some harder stuff. More campussing and fingerboarding. Dinner with a beautiful girl afterwards. :)
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Another good week spoiled by the evil drink on Saturday night meaning Sunday was a right off.
Mon- Fb session. 5/10 workout.
Tues- Alnwick wall and Moonboard 25 probs 6B to 7A. Good improvement
Wed- Climbing works red and greens aerocap thingy. 75 problems 750+ moves 45 mins.
Thursday- lunch FB session at works as per monday. PM school bouldering for 90 mins then nasty rings workout for 45 mins with Ben Davison. proper session.
Fri- pretty beat up but not as bad as i thought- rest day.
Sat- vinyasa yoga- Alnwick wall good session as Tuesday. 7A project done and close to two others. Improvement each session. No FB as feel worked.
Sunday- feeling sorry for myself with hangover. Right off day climbing wise but managed to run around coaching the kids rugby for two hours and give the dog a long walk.
Only one aerocap session again this week, missed 1 FB session but dont think that was a bad thing, and only one session of Yoga which is shit and i need to pull my finger out.
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wt 92.6Kg still going in right direction
STG - Lose some weight, build a new base
MTG - Repeat Evening Song and Crack pot
LTG - Psyhcokiller & Strongbow. Finish two long term boulder projects & get to 85kg
M- BM session - much better 7-3 most grips on 1st set, 2nd set better
T - Wall session ok with some progress working problems on 45 board
W- stretch and some kettlebell swings
TH am- BM session - much better 6-4 most grips on 1st, 2nd set much better just failed on the deep locks
TH pm- Wall sessionnot much progress quite tired
F- Kettlebell presses
S- Kids activities + DIY
S - Kids activities + DIY + car
OK week still a long way to go, looking forward to getting back on the rock, just need some more freetime!!
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Short term goals:
- Figure out what my weaknesses really are (if anybody out there climbs/has climbed with me then please tell me what they are. My feelings won't be hurt!)
- Build a coherent training plan around these that will create long term improvement
- Put it in action and arrive in Font injury free (early April)
- 3 sessions of climbing related training per week
Medium term goals:
- 7C+ in my style (Curious Yellow/Heaven in your Hands?)
- Consistent 7B+ in the anti-style (I suspect steep and strenuous stuff)
- 7C in the anti-style
Long term goals:
- 8A
M -
T - Fingerboard. Trying out different grips for about an hour (including WU). Trying to find what works and how I can get into Dave Mac's 5-8 second zone. Worked front and back 3 in open hand only.
W - Gym. Assisted one armers (-10Kg) 3 sets of one rep on each arm. Weighted pull ups (+15kg) 3x3. Toes-to-bar - 3x3 - could not fully complete the last set.
T -
F - Beer and a late night
S - Did one route at Horseshit - horribly cold. Bailed to Curbar and did Trackside and a few easy problems.
S - 2 games of Munchkin and 2 games of Settlers of Catan. YYFY.
Not a great week in terms of training. Didn't get on a board, which having read 9 out of 10 Climbers, I think is a big issue. Technique on properly steep stuff is obviously crap.
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Mon. Board 15 problem warm up, the 6 problems 4 times each.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board. Worked out some new problems, managed 2 of the easier ones.
Sat. Spent morning putting up beast maker. Bike 1 hour, I had planned to go out for longer but roads were icy.
Sun. Board did 2 problems from Friday one of which I couldn't do the moves on on Friday . Bike 51.78 miles 3 hrs 7 mins felt battered when I finished.
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Gme, is this:
Wed- Climbing works red and greens aerocap thingy. 75 problems 750+ moves 45 mins.
something you came up with?
I've been reading the Andersons' RCTM (http://www.cordee.co.uk/The-Rock-Climber%27s-Training-Manual-det-15-101-101-10690.html) and they recommend traditional (>30 mins on) ARC for bouldering base fitness.
I wondered if doing lots of relatively easy problems was better as it seems more specific to bouldering.
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Hello JFDM - welcome to UKB and Power Club
Tom - my fingers are similar to yours and I find that my best grip is a chisel on an edge with my hand slightly angled outwards. I wouldn't write off the crimp as evil. I have had no problems prioritising training a full crimp for the last 6 months due to it being significantly weaker (by 5-10kg) than a chisel even though you get no help from the thumb. Glad to hear you are almost mended.
M. Early flight to Alicante from Manchester. Bugger all sleep and pissing down we got there. Drove to Gandia and eventually found Bovedon car park spot. Still pissing down. Recce of the crag - still dry. Back to car for gear. Trousers and shoes soaking by time got back to crag, Hard to work out where routes went from topos Id downloaded. Paul led a 6c with a traverse then a 7b also with a trav so made sense for me to follow both. came off the 7b. We both then had a play on Arcadia - me just on bottom tufa section - Paul on whole route. Left as it was getting dark and drove to Chulilla
T. AM. Cold night and morning.(5degrees) Parked at reservoir and walked up gorge to Cañaberal to climb in sun. Did a 6c+ and 7a with a desperate perplexing start. Moved to Nanopark around the corner. Led up a slabby 7a+ but had a silly unexpected foot slip post crux and came off. Paul did it then I redpointed. I felt really tired even on top easy section. Decided to call it a day. Went over to Oasis in shade – had a nap and got really cold belaying Paul on three other routes.
W. AM. 7degrees Back at Nanopark / Ca Germa to warm up in sun. Climbed a scrappy 6b+ route with some interesting sections. Crossed river into shade of Oasis. Wind blowing which increased chill factor. Surprised how many parties were enduring the conditions. Led up Miguel Gomez a 7a. Gnarly crimps in cold weather above a bolt was all too much. Came down thinking I would stick to 6's for rest of trip. Paul did it and encouraged me to have another go. Decided that grim determination was required and clawed my way up it. Desperate. Paul then O/Sed a 7a+ and again against my better judgement I had a go, Fell on first bolt and lowered but then flashed to the top to my surprise. Paul onsighted a stunning 7b+. He suggested I leave it for later in the trip but I was more psyched despite the weather. Got through start on third attempt then plodded up joyful tufa stuff with arms cramping up to the hard finish. Was too pumped by time I got there to pull through crux so had a rest then pulled through. Hardcore day. Paul decided that it would be a 7c day for him tomorrow
T. AM. Even Paul had enough of the cold so started at the village end of the gorge at Muro. Nice and sunny. Led a long 6c then a long classic Verdonesque 7a. Moved around the corner after being pointed at a new 7b up a towering groove. It was a still a bit scrappy and dirty. Ended up pulling on a bolt to get through a blank crux section though Paul led it OK. Moved on to Sector Sex Shop and did a gratifyingly high quality /low stress 7b then its neighbouring 7a+ which was almost as hard. Paul did all of the above but no 7c's complaining of headaches from the two beers on the previous night
F. Noon. Tactical later start. Paul still poorly. Went to Setor Sex Shop. Misread guide and ended up on a 7b+ thinking it was a 6b+. Retreated quickly then pulled on a bolt on the 6b+. Paul did the amazing looking 7b+ Los Franceses. I did an old skool 7a+ up a steep flake line then a brilliant 7b called Cantalobos which I thought had hard top moves but Paul pissed it. A final boulder 7a+ didn’t suit me so I came down and left it to Paul to finish off.
S.Decided I was keen for Los Franceses but nervous about it as my fitness was well below par. After warm ups went around to have a look. Crag was deserted (why on a Saturday?) so no excuses. Climbed tentatively up the intimidating first half which follows a corner with three roofs, Top section is a tufa wall climbing on rounded sidepulls and pinches. I climbed quickly to try and beat the pump. Paul had described the crux and said it was best to go for the move rather than clip the bolt. It was academic by the time I got to that point as I was almost too pumped to hold on let alone clip. I was a fair way above the bolt and lunged for the obvious jug Paul described and hit it but was unable to hold it and so was off. I looked down and had a sickening snapshot of a load of slack rope looping away. Fortunately Paul was paying attention for once and took in some rope but I still went 30 feet. Body in one piece but ego in bits. I hauled up and climbed through finding a nice static way to do the crux and lowered off stripping the gear. Paul then onsighted the 7c to the left. A solitary Slav came up. I was shattered having thrown everything at the onsight and left Paul with his new belay slav to try an 8a while I went back for a nap.
S. Last day. Looked in at Chorreras. A good looking sector but confusing topo. Did a tufa style 7a as a warm up coming down when I started to get pumped (at 30m !) and then redpointing it. Back to try the 7b+ I had a go at on weds but had the same experience – ie too pumped to try the high crux. Did another 7a on Oasis then went to join Donnie and Greg at Super Zeb – an amazing looking 7c. One for next time. Paul and I did a slightly bizarre 7a to its right as our last route of the trip,
Overall a good trip to break up the winter. Gutted not to have bagged a 7b+ onsight even though I knew I would be lacking stamina.
For those who haven’t been I thoroughly recommend Chulilla. I’m keen to go back but will ensure I’m fitter to make the most of it.The gorge itself is beautiful with cactus, bamboo and bulrushes and other exotic plants along its length with virtually continuous orange walls on either side for about 2 miles. Most routes – even the 40metres ones – don’t even reach the top and the various orientations mean that you can opt for sun and shade. Predominantly the climbing is slightly overhanging and there is a good variety of route types.
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Nice trip report Shark.
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STG: get back to full finger fitness, get fit for font at easter
MTG: keep working on shoulder stability, 7C in 2015
M. morning shoulders, reverse flies and one arm 'shrugs', eve indoor training session, did a bit of campusing and fingerboarding. new campus rungs gone up at the wall which are spaced further than standard, 1-3-5 back to being difficult.
T. power endurance session, trying to link routes into doubles on the circuit board. shoulder sesh in eve
W. shoulders
T. indoor wall session, did a bit of campusing but mostly just pottered around projecting stuff
F. shoulders
S. outdoors to a dampish venue, did a tricky 6B+ and then went to try a 7B slab but didn't have the shoes for it at all. was cool watching my mate cruise through the start, though no send yet. went back and tried a cool 6C+ traverse and would have done it but ran out of time. two to go back for.
Reasonable week and good to keep getting at least once a week, I want to try to keep up the outdoor climbing before font. Mainly I'm inordinately excited about the wall installing a weights and pulley system for fingerboarding, can't wait for the obsessive dissection of minute strength improvements this will allow. like all of UKB realistically
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STG: trad projects
MTG: various I'm 40 related targets and 8c
LTG: 9a
BHAG: Bruderlieber (sp?)
M - The 400
T - The 400 and a BM session. Had a play at using a pulley to take weight off, and it was desperate. I had the 15kg hanging through the pulley attached to my harness (which I was wearing...) and I was really struggling to even hang holds that I can quite comfortably hang one handed?!? Just felt totally wrong. Is it better to do these holding the other end rather than attaching to harness. Any pointers or is it just a getting used to thing?
W - The 400 and long day at work
T - The 400, 30 min swim, short BM session
F - The 400, very long day at work
S - The 400, and at work...
S - The 400 and attempted outside session turned into a dog walk due to conditions, no time spent at work yay!
Work obviously a big feature this week so nothing spectacular climbing/training wise. Just keeping my head above water and stick to the 400 was (more) than enough...
TomTom re: fingers. I too have short index and very short tiny almost useless little fingers. My index fingers used to be slightly stronger than my ring fingers but recent middle two focussed training means that they are now way behind the ring finger. Having noted this (coupled with the complete uselessness of my little fingers) I played around with strategies to train these two fingers. I started with the obvious front two and back two type stuff but I always felt like the dominant finger (middle for front two and ring for back two) was the limiting factor and the weak finger was doing nothing/very little and barely getting trained, a combination of (1) being the weaker finger and (2) being shorter so barely getting on the hold. So I messed around with some different combinations and found that if I put my index finger in the BM bottom row mono my little finger goes quite nicely on the shallow crimp pocket/slot thing. So I started hanging two handed like that, which really feels like your working the target fingers (or my target fingers) and not like your strong fingers are doing all the work. It's definitely improved my index fingers and even my little fingers have improved from totally useless to simply practically useless... It's perhaps a tough hang to do two handed but maybe one hand like this and one on a better hold??
I'm just spitballin'
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TomTom re: fingers. I too have short index and very short tiny almost useless little fingers. My index fingers used to be slightly stronger than my ring fingers but recent middle two focussed training means that they are now way behind the ring finger. Having noted this (coupled with the complete uselessness of my little fingers) I played around with strategies to train these two fingers. I started with the obvious front two and back two type stuff but I always felt like the dominant finger (middle for front two and ring for back two) was the limiting factor and the weak finger was doing nothing/very little and barely getting trained, a combination of (1) being the weaker finger and (2) being shorter so barely getting on the hold. So I messed around with some different combinations and found that if I put my index finger in the BM bottom row mono my little finger goes quite nicely on the shallow crimp pocket/slot thing. So I started hanging two handed like that, which really feels like your working the target fingers (or my target fingers) and not like your strong fingers are doing all the work. It's definitely improved my index fingers and even my little fingers have improved from totally useless to simply practically useless... It's perhaps a tough hang to do two handed but maybe one hand like this and one on a better hold??
I'm just spitballin'
Cheers Nik - thats interesting to hear.. sounds like a good way to load the little finger OH, but I wonder when would you use it like that on rock? I guess it strengthens the finger that spreads the load when you can get aall fingers on for some holds...
Tom - my fingers are similar to yours and I find that my best grip is a chisel on an edge with my hand slightly angled outwards. I wouldn't write off the crimp as evil. I have had no problems prioritising training a full crimp for the last 6 months due to it being significantly weaker (by 5-10kg) than a chisel even though you get no help from the thumb. Glad to hear you are almost mended.
Nice write up Shark. Is chisel the same as half crimp? - I do the same angle the inside of my hand outwards so I get an even spread of tips on the hold..
Hmm.. confused.. My half crimp is like a crimp, but without the finger over the index finger and a bit more open fingered...
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Middle two half crimped. outer two open
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0107/6442/files/grips_large.JPG?116)
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Thank you (doffs cap)...
What I call a half crimp (ha!) is halfway between the half crimp and the chisel... (a half chisel!) or maybe a quarter crimp :)
Actually, with my finger geomettry its hard to get a half crimp that looks like that - its more like the chisely half crimp. Confused? I am :)
ANYWAY - it means I'm getting some little finger action :/
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STG - Get over this bloody shoulder tweak. Be less than completely crap in Chulilla in 5 weeks time. Start fingerboarding again. Find out what is up with my hip. Lose 2kg.
MTG: 7b RP this winter next autumn. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous by June.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.
M - Shoulder stability exercises (and the old skool 400 most days)
T - Westway 2 routes 4+
W - Shoulder stability exercises
T - Westway 5 routes 4+ -5+
F - Shoulder stability exercises
S - Westway 7 routes 4+ - 6a
S - Shoulder stability exercises, micro foot-on fingerboard session,
Back on power club after 4 weeks of shoulder-related frustration. Can now comfortably manage 25 second side-planks - my key shoulder exercise - so I can start to cautiously push things a bit. Plan: cautiously ramp up the mileage. Bouldering is out at the moment as I can’t jump off anything so focus will be on fingerboarding until this is resolved one way or another.
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I'm definitely a believer in training 1/2 crimp, but I wouldn't go full on first thing. build up to it slowly to make sure you don't hurt yourself :)
I can regular crimp all the holds on the BM (that 4 fingers go on..) so its feeling fine 1/2 crimping them.. Though I like to mix my repeaters up, ie small edge, med edge, small edge etc... rather than all small, all med... Fingers feeling alot happier than when crimping though... (takes less effort to peel them back to normal shape!)
PS - sorry to hear you;ve had a shite week,...
Glad to hear it. Hate to see anyone hurt themselves if its avoidable :)
The week wasn't really shit - just crazy busy and hectic and such. and a little bit o shit on top :)
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I was goign to start offering up suggestion to those who are posting - if you think they're shit feel free to say so, and obviously they'll be well researched from reading 1-2 threads :)
If you think I should stop, let me know as well.
STG: Another V7.
MTG: V8
LTG: V11
T: moved to weighted campussing and fingerboarding. Did 1-5-7 for the first time ever.
W: More campussing and fingerboarding. No weighted stuff but did 1-5-7 3 timesin a row.
F: Indoors. Campussing and fingerboarding mainly.
S:More campussing and fingerboarding.
I've not yet done 1-4-7 or 1-5-7 on a moon spaced campus board. This fall I came close to 1-4-7, touching the rung, but never getting over the rung to be able to stick it. Your goal is v7, and I was at v12/13. I think this shows two great points. I need to work on campusing, and you probably don't need to. I'd guess your time may be better spent focussing on something else as a weakness. Just a thought.
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Nice trip report Shark.
Second this!!! So close to the 7b+ flash :(
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Short term goals:
- Figure out what my weaknesses really are (if anybody out there climbs/has climbed with me then please tell me what they are. My feelings won't be hurt!)
- Build a coherent training plan around these that will create long term improvement
- Put it in action and arrive in Font injury free (early April)
- 3 sessions of climbing related training per week
M -
T - Fingerboard. Trying out different grips for about an hour (including WU). Trying to find what works and how I can get into Dave Mac's 5-8 second zone. Worked front and back 3 in open hand only.
W - Gym. Assisted one armers (-10Kg) 3 sets of one rep on each arm. Weighted pull ups (+15kg) 3x3. Toes-to-bar - 3x3 - could not fully complete the last set.
T -
F - Beer and a late night
S - Did one route at Horseshit - horribly cold. Bailed to Curbar and did Trackside and a few easy problems.
S - 2 games of Munchkin and 2 games of Settlers of Catan. YYFY.
Not a great week in terms of training. Didn't get on a board, which having read 9 out of 10 Climbers, I think is a big issue. Technique on properly steep stuff is obviously crap.
There was quite a bit of discussion about starting core training. Are you going to go down that road as I only see the 3x3 toes-to-bar in this cycle? It seems like an obvious weakness to address.
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I was goign to start offering up suggestion to those who are posting - if you think they're shit feel free to say so, and obviously they'll be well researched from reading 1-2 threads :)
If you think I should stop, let me know as well.
STG: Another V7.
MTG: V8
LTG: V11
T: moved to weighted campussing and fingerboarding. Did 1-5-7 for the first time ever.
W: More campussing and fingerboarding. No weighted stuff but did 1-5-7 3 timesin a row.
F: Indoors. Campussing and fingerboarding mainly.
S:More campussing and fingerboarding.
I've not yet done 1-4-7 or 1-5-7 on a moon spaced campus board. This fall I came close to 1-4-7, touching the rung, but never getting over the rung to be able to stick it. Your goal is v7, and I was at v12/13. I think this shows two great points. I need to work on campusing, and you probably don't need to. I'd guess your time may be better spent focussing on something else as a weakness. Just a thought.
Definitely welcomed but I completely forgot to mention that that was NOT on small rungs... Those were pretty big.
I'm combining campussing with finger boarding alot lately to train for the crux on my DWS project. Using big moves for the power generation and obviously fingerboard for fingers.
I am still bouldering alot to train but kind of focussed on the boards atm... :)
Thanks Todd!
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Even so, I can't do 1-4-7 on the medium or large rungs. Like I said it, makes for a good comparison of relative strengths.
An alternative if you not specifically training for a campus move is to do max moves using a foot on to generate momentum. This can be done either matched hands, or offset.
Cheers and good luck w the DWS project. That's something i'd like to do sometime.
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I was goign to start offering up suggestion to those who are posting - if you think they're shit feel free to say so, and obviously they'll be well researched from reading 1-2 threads :)
Great idea - feedback always welcome...
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I was going to start offering up suggestion to those who are posting - if you think they're shit feel free to say so, and obviously they'll be well researched from reading 1-2 threads :)
An excellent and generous idea.
I post on here largely as my own training journal but also partly in the hope of advice/critique from better climbers - which, judging by the "How hard have you bouldered in 2014?" thread, means pretty much everybody.
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The half crimp in the BM terminology is what everybody else I know calls a chisel :shrug:
The "chisel" in the terminology is a way of "cheating" to hold the big slopers, mostly employed by light midgets with tiny hands.
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The half crimp in the BM terminology is what everybody else I know calls a chisel :shrug:
The "chisel" in the terminology is a way of "cheating" to hold the big slopers, mostly employed by light midgets with tiny hands.
Yes - its a bit of a blurry pair of categories - as if you go strictly by that picture then a chisel is a deflated half crimp! Shirley, depending on the angle/shitness/type of edge you are crimping you are going to halfcrimp/chisel and a different angle anyway....
Chisel terminology on slopers (or I noticed especially on plastic when people bone down on the back edge of a slopey blob) makes alot of sense..
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Like dense, I tend to think of half crimp as my 'natural' grip, with central fingers at 90ndegrees but outer fingers dragging, and chisel and being forcing 90 in the index too. There's also the possibility of forcing fingers into a crimp position but without the thumb, so half crimp is actually a very poorly defined term!
I'm fairly sure that CWP and Lopez both mean forcing 90 degrees (what I call chizel) in their finger boarding...
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Was doing some ancap on the smallest campus rails last night and my middle two are 90deg and the index and pinky are dragging, the pinky less so.
I'd normally say the middle two chisel (like dense?) but I guess that's half crimp according to the pics.
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Full crimping feels totally unnatural and strange to me, it's really something I have to consciously try to do.
There's another position that I find myself using e.g. on slate - not a conscious choice, just what it seems natural to do on small holds on slabs - with my fingers completely curled over 180 degrees, fingernails against the rock and the tips of my fingers on the hold. Anybody else do this / does it have a name?
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Anybody else do this / does it have a name?
'Desperate'
I do the same on slate sometimes.
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Anybody else do this / does it have a name?
'Desperate'
I do the same on slate sometimes.
Cuticle death... ;)
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Too Cute to Pull
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Kelvin - that's what I mean by half crimp, or my natural position.
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[/quote]
I've not yet done 1-4-7 or 1-5-7 on a moon spaced campus board. This fall I came close to 1-4-7, touching the rung, but never getting over the rung to be able to stick it. Your goal is v7, and I was at v12/13. I think this shows two great points. I need to work on campusing, and you probably don't need to. I'd guess your time may be better spent focussing on something else as a weakness. Just a thought.
[/quote]
Definitely welcomed but I completely forgot to mention that that was NOT on small rungs... Those were pretty big.
I'm combining campussing with finger boarding alot lately to train for the crux on my DWS project. Using big moves for the power generation and obviously fingerboard for fingers.
I am still bouldering alot to train but kind of focussed on the boards atm... :)
Thanks Todd!
[/quote]
Despite it being around for a long time now, backed by science and by strong people I am still not sure of the benefits of the campus board. I know so many people who can/could only just do 1-4-7 who consistently bouldered in the 8s inside and out. And i know lots who can do 1-5-8 who cant do 7B. Your level even on big rungs seems completely out of kilter with the grade your climbing and i would suggest has no benefit to your training.
I can boulder V7 outside even on burly stuff at the minute but cant even lock off on a bar never mind do 1-4-7. like Sasquatch i could probably benefit from doing a bit of campusing, but even then i am not convinced it will be better for me than just bouldering on steep boards.
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Kelvin - that's what I mean by half crimp, or my natural position.
Definitely my natural 4 finger position - like Muenchener, I find full crimp something I really have to think about using whereas yours just feels 'proper' to me.
Maybe that's why I'm weak and feeble tho!
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For me there is a distinct difference between full crimp, half crimp and chisel when using a small edge.
Ill post some pics later if my iphone is successfully repaired
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For me there is a distinct difference between full crimp, half crimp and chisel when using a small edge.
Ill post some pics later if my iphone is successfully repaired
the 6 is a much better phone for crimp training than the 4/4s.. smoother edges...
-
Short term goals:
- Figure out what my weaknesses really are (if anybody out there climbs/has climbed with me then please tell me what they are. My feelings won't be hurt!)
- Build a coherent training plan around these that will create long term improvement
- Put it in action and arrive in Font injury free (early April)
- 3 sessions of climbing related training per week
M -
T - Fingerboard. Trying out different grips for about an hour (including WU). Trying to find what works and how I can get into Dave Mac's 5-8 second zone. Worked front and back 3 in open hand only.
W - Gym. Assisted one armers (-10Kg) 3 sets of one rep on each arm. Weighted pull ups (+15kg) 3x3. Toes-to-bar - 3x3 - could not fully complete the last set.
T -
F - Beer and a late night
S - Did one route at Horseshit - horribly cold. Bailed to Curbar and did Trackside and a few easy problems.
S - 2 games of Munchkin and 2 games of Settlers of Catan. YYFY.
Not a great week in terms of training. Didn't get on a board, which having read 9 out of 10 Climbers, I think is a big issue. Technique on properly steep stuff is obviously crap.
There was quite a bit of discussion about starting core training. Are you going to go down that road as I only see the 3x3 toes-to-bar in this cycle? It seems like an obvious weakness to address.
Its in the plan. However I think that focussing on building 'core' strength would be a mistake. When I had a board session at the Depot the week before it became obvious that there were large gains to be made by improving steep ground technique - hence trying to get down the board a bit too.
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I was goign to start offering up suggestion to those who are posting - if you think they're shit feel free to say so, and obviously they'll be well researched from reading 1-2 threads :)
:great: The more interactive these threads become and the more we question what we're doing the better.
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+1
I sometimes feel like I'm just doing random thing with no logic connected to them, especially indoors.
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Gme, is this:
Wed- Climbing works red and greens aerocap thingy. 75 problems 750+ moves 45 mins.
something you came up with?
I've been reading the Andersons' RCTM (http://www.cordee.co.uk/The-Rock-Climber%27s-Training-Manual-det-15-101-101-10690.html) and they recommend traditional (>30 mins on) ARC for bouldering base fitness.
I wondered if doing lots of relatively easy problems was better as it seems more specific to bouldering.
Sorry i have only just seen this.
I read it somewhere but cant remember where. I have done the 30 mins continuous method and the 10 on 10 off but find them tedious to the extreme and pretty antisocial at any wall. I obviously don't have the boredom threshold of Barrows who seems to enjoy doing them on the campus board.
So, after reading an article, i kind of came up with a solution that seems to fit the bill as an exercise, removes the boredom factor and suits the facilities I train at. It takes me about 45 minutes and other than a quick few steps on the ground between problems you are on the wall. You get the constant low level pump pump i believe your looking for and if it gets to high i make my self rest on the wall. If its too easy just add a few of the next level circuit up.
I do mine in the works on the easiest two circuit and it fits perfectly. feels like a piece of piss to start with but pretty out of breath and sweating like a pig by the end, although that might be to do with how shit i am at this kind of stuff. Oh and i do actually get pretty pumped at times but not to the point of falling off, i need the workout i do to feel like i have done something and dont have the time or inclination to do something for an hour that left me feeling like i had spent an hour in a health spa.
As an add on it shows up how badly i climb when i get a bit pumped so i am concentrating on technique and pulling on the holds as little as possible. This is key to climbing routes and something i now realise i am really shit at. I blame this on bouldering for so long where its all about pulling really hard.
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Its in the plan. However I think that focussing on building 'core' strength would be a mistake. When I had a board session at the Depot the week before it became obvious that there were large gains to be made by improving steep ground technique - hence trying to get down the board a bit too.
Makes sense, and you can actually "train" core strength quite a bit while climbing on a steep board. One method I've used in the past and the youth program here uses quite a bit:
Toward either the begining or end of the session, pick a "moderate" problem. Climb it 5 times:
using only the left foot,
using only the right foot,
cutting feet each move,
keeping your feet as low as possible (using any feet, just keeping them incredibly low),
Keeping your feet as high as possible.
Make sure the problem is easy enough to be able to climb it each of these ways. Each of these works a slightly different "core" area, as well as forcing you to enageg a wider variety of techniques. win-win
Good luck!
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Re: crimp terminology
all joint references start from fingertip, and this is how I've typically viewed them
Closed crimp - first joint hyper extended, second joint at 90+ degrees, thumb wrapped over index and/or middle finger.
1/2 crimp - Same general position as closed crimp but no thumb. Typically the first joint will be less hyper extended than a closed crimp, and the second joint will often stay at 90
Chisel - never used this term before
Open - no joints hyper extended
Drag - hooking the meat of the first joint on a sharp edge and using the meatiness to hang the hold. this is a relatively passive hang compared to the others. the goal is actually to hook the meat.
and based on pics Shark posted from the BM site (i think?) my terminology matches the pics for closed, 1/2 and drag. They don't post open, as it's quite hard to actually open hand a crimp as your pinky won't engage if you're actually open.
And all quite worthless in general except, I have found that training the 1/2 crimp with the index bent at 90 translates much better to closed crimping outside for me.
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Gme, is this:
Wed- Climbing works red and greens aerocap thingy. 75 problems 750+ moves 45 mins.
something you came up with?
I've been reading the Andersons' RCTM (http://www.cordee.co.uk/The-Rock-Climber%27s-Training-Manual-det-15-101-101-10690.html) and they recommend traditional (>30 mins on) ARC for bouldering base fitness.
I wondered if doing lots of relatively easy problems was better as it seems more specific to bouldering.
Sorry i have only just seen this.
I read it somewhere but cant remember where. I have done the 30 mins continuous method and the 10 on 10 off but find them tedious to the extreme and pretty antisocial at any wall. I obviously don't have the boredom threshold of Barrows who seems to enjoy doing them on the campus board.
So, after reading an article, i kind of came up with a solution that seems to fit the bill as an exercise, removes the boredom factor and suits the facilities I train at. It takes me about 45 minutes and other than a quick few steps on the ground between problems you are on the wall. You get the constant low level pump pump i believe your looking for and if it gets to high i make my self rest on the wall. If its too easy just add a few of the next level circuit up.
I do mine in the works on the easiest two circuit and it fits perfectly. feels like a piece of piss to start with but pretty out of breath and sweating like a pig by the end, although that might be to do with how shit i am at this kind of stuff. Oh and i do actually get pretty pumped at times but not to the point of falling off, i need the workout i do to feel like i have done something and dont have the time or inclination to do something for an hour that left me feeling like i had spent an hour in a health spa.
As an add on it shows up how badly i climb when i get a bit pumped so i am concentrating on technique and pulling on the holds as little as possible. This is key to climbing routes and something i now realise i am really shit at. I blame this on bouldering for so long where its all about pulling really hard.
Makes lots of sense and is something I've done before(the LONG boulder circuit :) ). The last paragraph really resonates with me and can actually really help boulderers. many problems are getting longer and you need to stay fresh. even if you're not pumped, you will lose strength, so learning to minimize effort on every move to the least required goes a long way.
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For me there is a distinct difference between full crimp, half crimp and chisel when using a small edge.
Ill post some pics later if my iphone is successfully repaired
Full crimp
(http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8570/16203616759_65718c33f8_m.jpg)
Half crimp
(http://farm8.static.flickr.com/7363/15767381204_8e7af746d6_m.jpg)
Chisel
(http://farm8.static.flickr.com/7315/16388913952_16907a549a_m.jpg)
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I reckon I'm usually somewhere between a half crimp and a chisel then - it is what it is.
Hope you hung them there one-armers shark? Footsies on the floor is cheating...
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OK, then my natural grip is somewhere around a half chisel. Glad we cleared that up.
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Even so, I can't do 1-4-7 on the medium or large rungs. Like I said it, makes for a good comparison of relative strengths.
An alternative if you not specifically training for a campus move is to do max moves using a foot on to generate momentum. This can be done either matched hands, or offset.
Cheers and good luck w the DWS project. That's something i'd like to do sometime.
Despite it being around for a long time now, backed by science and by strong people I am still not sure of the benefits of the campus board. I know so many people who can/could only just do 1-4-7 who consistently bouldered in the 8s inside and out. And i know lots who can do 1-5-8 who cant do 7B. Your level even on big rungs seems completely out of kilter with the grade your climbing and i would suggest has no benefit to your training.
I can boulder V7 outside even on burly stuff at the minute but cant even lock off on a bar never mind do 1-4-7. like Sasquatch i could probably benefit from doing a bit of campusing, but even then i am not convinced it will be better for me than just bouldering on steep boards.
Hmm... Food for thought there. :-\
I'd just always thought that my campussing could do with improving. Moving to smaller holds definitely will help I know.....
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There's another position that I find myself using e.g. on slate - not a conscious choice, just what it seems natural to do on small holds on slabs - with my fingers completely curled over 180 degrees, fingernails against the rock and the tips of my fingers on the hold. Anybody else do this / does it have a name?
If I understand correctly, you mean the grip position which effectively turns the hand into a skyhook?
Exactly. And it occurred to me that the reason to use them on slate is that you get holds that are tiny incut jugs, and trying to get the fingers down inside feels more secure than crimping on the edge as if they were flat.
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On the subject of the true "full crimp", It has dawned on me recently that I never really do them as shown in the photos as my fingers don't hyper-extend.
Mine don't either, although they used to. Still a full crimp if you're using the thumb wrapped over forefinger though, surely?
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I would like to coin the phrase describing the ambiguous ground in between a chisel and a half crimp.
"Chimp"....
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Sorry i have only just seen this.
I read it somewhere but cant remember where.
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It takes me about 45 minutes and other than a quick few steps on the ground between problems you are on the wall.
Thanks gme, turns out Rocksteady asked pretty much the same question in this topic (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25333.msg473834.html#msg473834) and jwi and abarro81 came to the same conclusion.
I have tried something similar but there isn't really the volume of easy stuff where I train. I ended up doing 55 probs up to my flash level. Ended up too pumped and being on the ground too long for it to feel ARC-like.
In future I'll just repeat problems and make easy stuff up.