UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: petejh on December 27, 2014, 03:45:51 pm
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At the BMC injury symposium, at last, the answer to the mystery. How come some people can hang on tiny crimps but don't have amazing finger strength? I fit into this category, hang me off a campus rung and I'm nothing special, but on a 5mm razor at Ravenstor and I do OK. Its all to do with the finger pulp, the stuff between skin and bone, with studies showing strength on small holds is not dependent on strength measured in standard ways. This pulpy stuff is developed over years, basically by pulling on bits of rubbish. So there you go, forget the campusing!
So? Anyone have links to the studies?
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Lopez mentioned this in an old blog post. If it's the same study, it was one that found that ability to hold onto a 20mm edge correlated well with ability to hold into a 15mm edge, same for a 10mm... etc down to about 5mm, then correlation breaks down. Wasn't any info about adaptation to training.
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As Alex said, nothing I saw in the article about adaptation. It was a mildly interesting article but not that much that I felt like I could take from it. I did make me want to measure my own pulp density though!