UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: B0405413 on October 25, 2016, 09:27:25 pm
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I'm making a list of slab/arete climbs from 6Cish to 7Cish to work my way through, since I've started training at the wall but would still like to climb outside sometimes on rest days. Looking for non-strenous stuff and nothing too high since they will all probably be done by headtorch. Already got Spring Slab and C3PO at the roaches, anyone other ideas? Cheers.
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Spinal Slab and Dry Whit at RHS, always thought the former was nails though
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Satin, Honorary Caley at Stanage?
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Beauty at High Neb, Stanage; everything on Nightmare Slab + Shirley's Shining Temple at Count's Buttress, Stanage; How Sure? at Howshaw Tor.
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Another shout for Beauty, its great. Tombstone at Froggatt was pretty good if I remember rightly.
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Some good stuff here, thanks. I'm guessing the stuff around joe's slab at Froggatt would also be good.
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nothing too high
everything on Nightmare Slab + Shirley's Shining Temple at Count's Buttress, Stanage
These are quite high, at least to top out maybe the difficulties are low down? But if you're happy with them then Sithee Direct, Black and Decker, Torture Garden and DIY are all decent highballs too.
Satin, Honorary Caley at Stanage?
Also at the Plantation the problems right of Crescent Arete are realy good & Deliverance Traverse is a stern test of footwork.
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I did think that Nai when posting hence the question mark, guess it depends on each persons definition of highball but you're right if those are acceptable there are other good options too. I wouldn't call Honorary Caley highball though, but Satin can be a bit.
Edit: just realised you were talking about Andy's suggestions not mine......
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Not those btol, although I guess Satin is tricky having to traverse off, I meant that Nightmare Slab and Shirleys could be considered high and a bit tricky for trying in the dark.
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Yeah I'd not be getting on shock horror if I was out by headtorch wanting to avoid highballs.
There's a decent tricky slab and a slabby arete on the block behind Flatworld at Baslow.
Slab immediately left of Pebble Arete at Stanage (tight line, stay honest).
El Regallo... at Burbage West
Tiny Slab problems at Burbage North.
Acid Reign at Rivelin.
Slab left of Pock Man at Burbage South.
Slab right of Brads Arete at Illegal/Seagul Tor.
Direct start to Downhill Racer, Froggatt (jump off).
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second the slab behind Flatworld
Beauty is ace but a bit of a trek in the dark if you're just out for the eve?
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Sorry, didn't see that about height/headtorches in the OP.
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Direct start to DH racer is well good (what Dave said)
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Torture Garden = :spank:
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Racking my brains for that 'non strenuous 7c slab' .....
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Does Bobba Fett get done much? I've done C3PO a couple of times but never really looked at that one.
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Is Boba Fett the one that climbs above the water hole? It looks pretty good but a good spotter would come in handy. C3PO is class.
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traverse under deliverance is a slab and lends itself to being lamp lit (and doesn't get too high)
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Play Hard at Trackside?
Low, good landing, easy access....
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Is Boba Fett the one that climbs above the water hole? It looks pretty good but a good spotter would come in handy. C3PO is class.
Bob arête if the one above the pool. It's easier than the rest on that slab, but you need to flash it unless there's a big freeze or a drought. Bobafett is just left. Get two pebbles high up and level with each other and press them out as far as you can.
Two more slabs:
Slabotomy and miles' slab. In my opinion miles' slab is harder than anything listed so far.
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What's the consensus with the grade of slabotomy? I've seen it listed as anywhere between 7a+ and 7C
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Slabotomy has two slightly different starts. It was originally done starting on the right/directly, but if you start slightly left and a step up the bank it makes it easier. I've only done it the easier way, so I'm not sure how eliminate the original start is.
Another good slab is Force Nine. Harder than most slabs of its grade in my opinion, probably due to pebble loss. I reckon it's one of the better ones.
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Couple others down roaches direction that might fit the bill
Clever skin - Baldstones
Stall - Gibb Tor
The slab left of C3PO - Roaches (edit - saw you already had spring slab, oops)
Also,
Elephant slab
Winsome (although this is high and really hard!)
Fish arete - Not slabby at all, but probably one of the best arete problems at the 6c-7a grade
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Slabotomy has two slightly different starts. It was originally done starting on the right/directly, but if you start slightly left and a step up the bank it makes it easier. I've only done it the easier way, so I'm not sure how eliminate the original start is.
Another good slab is Force Nine. Harder than most slabs of its grade in my opinion, probably due to pebble loss. I reckon it's one of the better ones.
I've only done the low right start which climbs well independently but I thought it was a tricky reachy-ish move of a broken pebble but quite hard to grade. So wondered what others thought. Great problem though.
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RE Slabotomy - I don't remember anything about different starts, it was a good while ago. Don't remember what grade I thought at the time either, other than the way I did it was definitely not 7c. As in nowhere near, def nearer 7a+. Great problem.
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That's what I thought. 7C slabs should feel the living end (for me anyway). Going back to slabs has anyone done that thing left of clever skin at baldstones!? Gets 7C i think? 😮
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Fiedler's wall.....
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Fielder's Wall. Gets 7B, but have not met anyone who has done it. Would not really class it as a slab. Someone on here did say they had done it and that it was ok.
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I've done fielders wall, as has Kanye (for those who know him). It doesn't climb like a slab though, and is harder than it used to be after I broke the pebble you used to use with your left hand for the crux.
Slabotomy definitely has two different starts, but they are close to each other.
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Fielder's Wall. Gets 7B, but have not met anyone who has done it. Would not really class it as a slab. Someone on here did say they had done it and that it was ok.
They're always ok when you've done em.
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I've done Fielders. I thought it was fine for 7b but it was ages ago so probs pre-AndyB the pebble destroyer. Agree with Andy its not really a slab, more powerful undercutting and a big rockover. Or something.
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Thanks, I'll have to get back there and try it again. I remember waving my left hand around in scrittle. I can't think of that many slab boulder problems on peak grit. Lots of great routes though.
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Thought of another.
Miles Slab/Directissima - Wimberry 7b+
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Couple more:
Pig Heart Boy at Froggatt.
Famous Grouse at Bbg West - it's basically a slab/arete, albeit a hanging one.
There's a decent slab at naughty crag Y too
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Couple more:
Famous Grouse at Bbg West - it's basically a slab/arete, albeit a hanging one.
I take your point, but the "hanging" bit is the crux and is not a slab! If it feels like a slab you're too strong Dave. Did you burn Megos off on this too?
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Don't think Sean's Arete at Curbar has been mentioned yet. Needs a bit of tension to be put through the feet but not a strenuous problem so ticks all the boxes and is an amazing set of moves.
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Again what you say is true, but the crux is battling a shit pinch to do a dyno in a position of definitive over-the-verticalness. I think you and Dave need to go on a slab awareness course together ;)
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Slab awareness course?! Where do they run this?
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La Pedriza.
Nicotine Stain is well worthwhile, but won't pass the height-cum-headtorch test, so save it for another day.
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I generally take advantage of my grade 2 Slab Avoidance ticket, but...
Winsome, Wimberry, 7a+ - Good front pointing on pebbles
Diamond Slab/Scoop Centre, RHS, 6c+ - Slightly wiggy padding
Deamboat Direct, Froggatt, 7a - Worth seeking out after a dry spell. High but a perfect landing
Cherub's Bit, Turning Stone, 7a - Esoteric pure padding
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/844/standard_844.png)
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Slab awareness course?! Where do they run this?
Gaskins Home Wall, He'll show you how to pull on a few quarks then introduce you to the God Particle
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Again what you say is true, but the crux is battling a shit pinch to do a dyno in a position of definitive over-the-verticalness. I think you and Dave need to go on a slab awareness course together ;)
Dave just needs to start climbing less on steep overhanging boards and climb slower ;)
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Went to have a look at Cherub's bit a couple of years ago. As BJ says its pure slab, but it was green. Might be able to clean it up now I have a bit more time
I'm not sure Sean's arete is a slab TBH. You need to pull hard at the start and at the end - you're obviously just too strong Steve :)
Dave please can you give me a clue or send me a PM re naughty crag y ?. If its the same one I'm thinking off I've done a couple of problems there over the last 2 years which I was saving the write up for a later date
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Slab awareness course?! Where do they run this?
Gaskins Home Wall, He'll show you how to pull on a few quarks then introduce you to the God Particle
Quark-pulling ability is definitely useful.
(http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Stabworth-project.jpg)
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Dave please can you give me a clue or send me a PM re naughty crag y ?. If its the same one I'm thinking off I've done a couple of problems there over the last 2 years which I was saving the write up for a later date
Naughty crag y is in the current Froggatt book as Stanton-in-the-woods.
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OK cheers
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Some great stuff here, this will keep me going for absolutely ages. That thing at Turning Stone Edge looks great. Keep em comin!
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I think maybe The Stride ones mentioned are the most accessible on Southern Grit.
Cherubs Bit is a good looking piece of rock but I was there a couple of weeks ago and it will need a re-clean and the rhododendrons pruning back to get it back to its former glory. I'm keen to do this so post up it does get cleaned up. :)
On a similar note I think this is the harder slab at Stanton Woods/Y that Dave means?
Chip of the Same Block 7b - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21233.0.html
Another good chunk of esoteric slab. Again this needs a clean as does the whole slab -the easier lines to the right are superb when in good nick.
Possibly Fat Girl Rodeo 7b at Black Rocks should be on the list? Goes left across the slab from The Runnel and finishes up Runnel Rib. Not done it myself but is an acceptable venue for lanterns.
Not sure if Bonjoy's Invasion of the Cider Women Direct 7a at Cratcliffe also might fit the bill as a slab? Maybe too steep? He might advise.
Angel Falls 6c at Seagull/Illegal Tor is very good but access is not allowed in the day and definitely not in the dark.
Phoenix Nights at Hillcar Wood also has some classic slab moves but pretty highball and maybe not one for the dark!
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I'd echo what others have said about the stuff at Crag Y/Stanton in the Woods. Some excellent slabs, mostly below 6C but damn good nonetheless. Bolehill's one up the middle of the Chip Off slab is IMO the best 6A/B slab in the Peak (when not covered in moss!).
Fat Girl Rodeo is a good slab move but quite highball for a lamp session.
Cider Women Direct is a good call for a steep slab.
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I'd echo what others have said about the stuff at Crag Y/Stanton in the Woods. Some excellent slabs, mostly below 6C but damn good nonetheless. Bolehill's one up the middle of the Chip Off slab is IMO the best 6A/B slab in the Peak (when not covered in moss!).
Fat Girl Rodeo is a good slab move but quite highball for a lamp session.
Cider Women Direct is a good call for a steep slab.
I forget the names but pretty sure Cofe got some good lower grade slabs on this vid:
https://vimeo.com/49560935
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Walk on by at curbar is an amazing slab but doesn't fit the grade boundaries (unless you are caff and think it's 7c)
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Walk on by at curbar is an amazing slab but doesn't fit the grade boundaries (unless you are caff and think it's 7c)
I heard it was going to get 7B+ in the new guide as its now a trade route ;)
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This went with a ‘French start’ after much deliberation about which foot and hand went where. You could definitely lank the first move static, may have lost a pebble or two. Good stuff from Rocket Man
Watch Simon’s Slab on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/301413874