UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on July 16, 2018, 05:48:52 pm
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Heading to font for a week for the first time in August.
Need some problem recommendations.
Cheers
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Ta da!
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26843.msg546205.html#msg546205
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Are you planning to climb in daylight?
It's likely to be very hot. Asking for recommendations for suitable summer problems might be worthwhile
Only time I've been in August we got up early for a session then did another last thing.
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Are you planning to climb in daylight?
It's likely to be very hot. Asking for recommendations for suitable summer problems might be worthwhile
Only time I've been in August we got up early for a session then did another last thing.
Cheers Will, I'll have a look at that thread.
Going to climb early and late. I know August isn't ideal but its the only time I can go, as im mixing it with a family holiday.
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'La Baleine' 7A - Petit Bois
'Hyper Plomb' - 7A - Apremont
'Fleurs de Rhum' - 7A+ - Apremont
'Faux Contact' - 7A+ - Apremont
'Happy Boulder' - 7A+ - Apremont
'Onde de Choc' - 7B - Apremont
Basically, go to Apremont!
There are tons of three start 7A-7B's there
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'La Baleine' 7A - Petit Bois
'Hyper Plomb' - 7A - Apremont
'Fleurs de Rhum' - 7A+ - Apremont
'Faux Contact' - 7A+ - Apremont
'Happy Boulder' - 7A+ - Apremont
'Onde de Choc' - 7B - Apremont
Basically, go to Apremont!
There are tons of three start 7A-7B's there
Apremont gets really warm.
My recommendations:
Beetlejuice at Cuisiniere
Le Surplomb de la Coquille, Ah Plus Facile! and Lapin ou Canard at Franchard Hautes Plaines
L'Egoiste at Apremont
Pieds dans la Lune at 95.2
Clandestino at Apremont Ouest
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I'll just leap in there and say: don't go to Apremont! At least, don't go if it's hot and the sun's out. Just about everything at the main area faces south and there's no shade. Properly scorchio. We went there once on a hot day and we were standing with our backs to a boulder, trying to get into the 3 inch strip of shade that it was casting. Futile.
I think the problems I've done in this grade bracket which I'd say were unmissable were:
l'Angle Ben's - Isatis
El Poussif - Isatis
La Baleine - Petit Bois
Carnage - Cuvier (gets 7B+ in the book but it's pretty soft. If you put a little time into working out the body positions and where the crimps are you can float up it with minimal pulling). Abbatoir next door is also very good, but not unmissable.
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - Roche aux Sabots (only unmissable if you like big dynos, but who doesn't?)
Duroxmanie (only 6C but one of the best, and right next to le Carre d'as which is only 6C+ but similarly unmissable).
If you like thugging on big holds on steep ground then Beetlejuice at Cuisiniere is very good (though I never actually finished it).
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Seconded Petit Bois as a shady venue.
On top of La Baleine you've got Big Jim (only 6c I know but it's not a pushover), and there's a little soft touch one through the back called Vacences A Bombay that I think gets 7a.
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Just a thought about Petit Bois. It's definitely shady but the star attraction is La Baleine, which isn't easy to do safely if you're on your own with minimal pads. Loads of roots in the landing and quite a large potential drop area so can't cover it all with two pads. Big Jim is taller but has a more predictable drop zone so is probably the better option if pads are limited.
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2 big pads (saturns) and a good spot worked for me on La Baline. Would also recomend this problem.
Magic Bus is also fairly well shaded but not a typical font style problem I suppose.
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Some idea that haven't been mentioned so far:
- La Rampe - Buthiers - fairly shady and a brilliant problem involving a great deal of body positioning to make the holds work
- Quelle Conque - Petit Bois - ignoring your grade suggestions, this is a wonderful problem. Quintessential Font and a must do
- Figure de Proue - Elephant - one of the best lines in Font at a very amenable 7A. Highball
- Matador - Elephant Nord - I.e. round the back of Elephant which is usually a lot quieter! Brilliant prow up to a desperate top out.
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- Quelle Conque - Petit Bois - ignoring your grade suggestions, this is a wonderful problem. Quintessential Font and a must do
A great little problem. It took us longer to do than L'Oeuf, La Baleine and Big Jim combined!
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- Figure de Proue - Elephant - one of the best lines in Font at a very amenable 7A. Highball
quality problem from start to finish!
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4415.msg58569.html#msg58569
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Cheers for the suggestions. Got a hell of a list now :lol:
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Just beware that there are some log problems mentioned on that thread, which have become popular for their virtue of being in the right place at the right grade - nothing to do with the climbing. Cortomaltese, for instance, is barely worth putting your shoes on for.
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Oh please!! cortomaltese isn’t that bad. There are plenty worse!! It’s just easy for the grade if you get it right.
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:off:
more of a "soft touch and OK in summer conditions on your own without a spotter" than a "must do"
Barre Fixe sitter at Elephant - doesn't get any sun all afternoon and evening (and not much the rest of the day), positive holds, flat soft sandy landing, only hard move is at the bottom, piss for the grade
have a go at the onsight - if that doesn't go, then work the finish from standing and then add the bottom (choice of methods)
perfect evening session stuff
https://vimeo.com/2190412
on the theme of safe-stuff-to-do-in-summer-on-your-own
https://bleau.info/sabots/770.html
as long as you get that R heel toe to finish up the 6b+ it's fine
like this, but with the heel toe and not falling off
https://vimeo.com/2112943