UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: James Malloch on January 19, 2021, 11:24:37 am
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I wondered if anyone has much experience of different board sizes? I'm looking at options for one and I'm unsure on what size to go for (i.e. how much space can I take over...).
Ideally I'm probably aiming for something that's not too steep (approx 25-30 degrees - which I think is similar to the easier pudsey depot board?) as I'm keen to use it in part to rehab my wrist and I think anything steeper would be too much for it for a while. It would be good to set some circuits and just use smaller holds for setting harder problems.
Something that's 2 sheets of ply (approx 2.44m square + kickboard) would be the easiest, though this would take over all the space we have width wise and as I'm 1.85m tall I'd be worried that the climbing length wouldn't be enough to set more than a few moves without making everything bunched, especially at such a shallow angle. Though maybe the width would allow decent length problems?
We could probably extend the upwards climbing length to 2.7m which would go some way to helping with the height issue.
Any advice or experience would be appreciated as I really don't know how climbable different sized boards would be.
Alternatively there's a 5m x 6m big garage for rent in Skipton (£270pm) if anyone fancied chipping in and making some kind of training facility...
Edit - changed 3m to 2.7m
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What height have you got to play with? My board is 26 degrees (random angle I know, but was based on location of rafters) and is 2 1/2 sheets of ply high and 1 wide. I'm a similar height to you, and can easily do problems up to 10 moves with a bit of contrivance, and have some loops up to 16 moves which i can do fairly comfortably without feeling like I'm dragging my arse on the ground. PM me a number and I can show you some vids to get a feel for what's possible.
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What height have you got to play with? My board is 26 degrees (random angle I know, but was based on location of rafters) and is 2 1/2 sheets of ply high and 1 wide. I'm a similar height to you, and can easily do problems up to 10 moves with a bit of contrivance, and have some loops up to 16 moves which i can do fairly comfortably without feeling like I'm dragging my arse on the ground. PM me a number and I can show you some vids to get a feel for what's possible.
Maximum width would be 2.4m (though ideally would be a little less 2.0 or 2.2, perhaps).
Max height (inc kicker) is 2.6m
Max depth is approx 1.15m before lighting gets in the way (though I guess this would be put on a longer cord & hung out of the way if really needed. Think it would start to make it more than 30 degrees for this though which is going into the too steep category.
I'll drop you a message with my number now, thanks!
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I am the proud owner of a 48 degree, 1.1m wide, 2m tall (equating to a length of ~2.8-3m climbing surface) board in the shed at the bottom of the garden. It's okay, but I consider it as a purely training tool, not somewhere I would spend a leisurely afternoon on, rather it is a 45 minute blast of high-octane falling off. If I had the space I would have it much wider because it allows a lot more use (e.g. backhand/gastons become a lot more usable because you typically need wider feet to make bigger moves off those).
At 173cm myself, I can get between 2 "big" moves and five moves from bottom to top, but that's obviously much steeper than your intended board. At least if yours is wide you're may be more inclined to make more use of the space and as you say, circuits.
From what others have said on the forum, don't bother with a kickboard, you'll be able to reach the top with feet on the kicker and it is a real difficulty to force yourself to not do so.
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I am the proud owner of a 48 degree, 1.1m wide, 2m tall (equating to a length of ~2.8-3m climbing surface) board in the shed at the bottom of the garden. It's okay, but I consider it as a purely training tool, not somewhere I would spend a leisurely afternoon on, rather it is a 45 minute blast of high-octane falling off. If I had the space I would have it much wider because it allows a lot more use (e.g. backhand/gastons become a lot more usable because you typically need wider feet to make bigger moves off those).
At 173cm myself, I can get between 2 "big" moves and five moves from bottom to top, but that's obviously much steeper than your intended board. At least if yours is wide you're may be more inclined to make more use of the space and as you say, circuits.
From what others have said on the forum, don't bother with a kickboard, you'll be able to reach the top with feet on the kicker and it is a real difficulty to force yourself to not do so.
Mine is similar - and as M1V0 said I wish I had more width to allow a bit more variety in the type of move allowed. That said - its been up 9 months now and I'm not bored (or restricted) by what I can do on it... Have a think about the overhang though - as you may get an extra move in if you go for a 30-35 rather than 20 degree... You can make a steeper board much easier by having larger foot holds...
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Is that vertical height?
Mine is 1.7m wide, 3.2m climbing height, 30 degrees. its vert height is 2.77m ish?
width for me is ok, dont feel restricted in wide moves, and having the height for several upward moves is really nice. have to be careful keeping the footholds small enough to still need tension - I have three sets of footholds of varying difficulty
kickboard on my angle or less is pointless I'd say, and prob even anything less than 40 degrees tbh.
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Go as wide as you can get away with, and maximise climbing length (so as steep as you can get away with). Depending where you order your ply from, you can get it cut to size which helps if tools or time are limited. This is not from board building experience but canvasing opinions during the design of one. If only the roofer had fixed the garage leak :spank:....
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Is that vertical height?
Mine is 1.7m wide, 3.2m climbing height, 30 degrees. its vert height is 2.77m ish?
width for me is ok, dont feel restricted in wide moves, and having the height for several upward moves is really nice. have to be careful keeping the footholds small enough to still need tension - I have three sets of footholds of varying difficulty
kickboard on my angle or less is pointless I'd say, and prob even anything less than 40 degrees tbh.
Yeah the room is 2.7m floor to celing, so probably get to about 2.6m max height in reality.
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I wouldn't want to go much shallower than 25-30 degrees, holds get really small and skin limiting much below that i reckon.
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I have a 25 degree board for circuits. Ignoring the top 20cm or so which is vert and has fingerboards on, dimensions are
3m wide
2.3m board surface
2.1m actual height
0.97m actual depth
No kickboard (I don't even have one on the 45 opposite). I'm about 180cm tall, so can reach from footholds at the bottom to the top.
It's great for circuits, but the width makes all the difference on that front. If it was only 2m I think with the limited vertical height it would feel very restricted. I haven't actually tried setting any non-circuit problems on it yet but imagine it'll be okay when I do get round to it. Will just use some really tiny little grifters :boxing:
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Go as wide as you can get away with, and maximise climbing length (so as steep as you can get away with). Depending where you order your ply from, you can get it cut to size which helps if tools or time are limited. This is not from board building experience but canvasing opinions during the design of one. If only the roofer had fixed the garage leak :spank:....
Not sure how bad your leak may be, but the shed roof leaks everywhere. The felting is no longer waterproof and where the boards underneath are sodden, they've sagged. I have a large swathe of plastic sheeting up that channels all the water into a bucket in the corner...
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I have a 25 degree board for circuits. Ignoring the top 20cm or so which is vert and has fingerboards on, dimensions are
3m wide
2.3m board surface
2.1m actual height
0.97m actual depth
No kickboard (I don't even have one on the 45 opposite). I'm about 180cm tall, so can reach from footholds at the bottom to the top.
It's great for circuits, but the width makes all the difference on that front. If it was only 2m I think with the limited vertical height it would feel very restricted. I haven't actually tried setting any non-circuit problems on it yet but imagine it'll be okay when I do get round to it. Will just use some really tiny little grifters :boxing:
Do you think you'd still get decent circuits if you sacrificed 0.5m width for 0.5m length, maintaining the same angle? That's about what I could get at 25 degrees...
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I'd give up width down to well under 2m long before I gave up even an inch of climbing length - I'm much more motivated by being able to set more upward movements, and I still have a few circuits set on mine with only 1.7m width that work fine. Up and down is better than side to side too imo.
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It’s worth considering that a 20-30 deg 2.4m high board with a kickboard means you’ll have your feet on the kickboard for all but maybe one move. So it won’t feel 20 - 30 degrees.
My 27 degree board is 2.8m high x 1.7 wide on top of a 35cm kickboard but I find it pretty hard to set any problems harder than around 7a without the holds becoming mingin crimps. I use it for warming up and circuits (obvs it would be better if it were wider).
If I only had one board I’d make it steeper, unless I wanted to focus on circuits. My other board is 60 deg so pretty savage. I’d have preferred it less steep but it’s 3.5m long so even as a tall person you get a fair few moves off the kickboard. It’s only 1.8 wide but that’s fine for up problems.
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I'd give up width down to well under 2m long before I gave up even an inch of climbing length - I'm much more motivated by being able to set more upward movements, and I still have a few circuits set on mine with only 1.7m width that work fine. Up and down is better than side to side too imo.
For sure. Anecdotally, even with 1.1m width, I can still manage "circuits" by just going straight up and straight back down. Tedium, but it does the job.
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I'd give up width down to well under 2m long before I gave up even an inch of climbing length - I'm much more motivated by being able to set more upward movements, and I still have a few circuits set on mine with only 1.7m width that work fine. Up and down is better than side to side too imo.
For sure. Anecdotally, even with 1.1m width, I can still manage "circuits" by just going straight up and straight back down. Tedium, but it does the job.
It's all just different variants of tedium at this kind of scale really isn't it. Whether you're going up and down or round in circles is kind of neither here nor there.
As others have said, just do as much as you can get away with in the space you have.
Do you think you'd still get decent circuits if you sacrificed 0.5m width for 0.5m length, maintaining the same angle? That's about what I could get at 25 degrees...
If it was the only board I had, I'd push it to 30 or 35 degrees and get extra length. You'd still be able to set easy problems and circuits using larger holds. Aerocap might be tough unless you're a total beast but there are ways round that.
Try to think about how you'll use it in future, not just how it is now with a dodgy wrist.
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It's all just different variants of tedium at this kind of scale really isn't it. Whether you're going up and down or round in circles is kind of neither here nor there.
I disagree with this (though not the tedium bit!) Up and down is better than side to side imo for training circuits especially if your feet aren't moving much. And unless you're going narrower than 1.5m there's no need to go down the same part of the board you came up.
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It's all just different variants of tedium at this kind of scale really isn't it.
Sums up most training succinctly.
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Ideally I'm probably aiming for something that's not too steep (approx 25-30 degrees - which I think is similar to the easier pudsey depot board?) as I'm keen to use it in part to rehab my wrist and I think anything steeper would be too much for it for a while. It would be good to set some circuits and just use smaller holds for setting harder problems.
Why don't you build it as steep as you would like to train on when healthy, and maximise the height, but install a big kickboard until you've rehabbed your wrist.
That way it'll feel like a less steep board when you need it to, but then you can just remove the kickboard when you are back at full strength.
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It's all just different variants of tedium at this kind of scale really isn't it. Whether you're going up and down or round in circles is kind of neither here nor there.
I disagree with this (though not the tedium bit!) Up and down is better than side to side imo for training circuits especially if your feet aren't moving much. And unless you're going narrower than 1.5m there's no need to go down the same part of the board you came up.
Sure the only thing more tedious than circuits on a small board would be to try to argue about whether up / down is better or worse than sideways :lol:
As I said before, just maximise the space you have. You'll always wish you had a bit more.
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Ideally I'm probably aiming for something that's not too steep (approx 25-30 degrees - which I think is similar to the easier pudsey depot board?) as I'm keen to use it in part to rehab my wrist and I think anything steeper would be too much for it for a while. It would be good to set some circuits and just use smaller holds for setting harder problems.
Why don't you build it as steep as you would like to train on when healthy, and maximise the height, but install a big kickboard until you've rehabbed your wrist.
That way it'll feel like a less steep board when you need it to, but then you can just remove the kickboard when you are back at full strength.
James. Do not take the advice of a man who posts a video of himself using a heel on a board.
There is only one answer to the question of how big should a board be and that answer is as big as possible. Build it as wide as you can and build it as tall and steep as you can. You've got a decent height (more than I have) so it's possible that a 30 would work but for goodness' sake don't go less steep than that. Personally I wouldn't go less than 40 with the height you've got (you've about 20cm more height than me and if my board was a 30 it'd be shit). If you do a 30 board either don't have a kickboard or just a very small one. You'll need to move that light but it's not that big a job compared to the additional benefit you'll get from a deeper board.
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James. Do not take the advice of a man who posts a video of himself using a heel on a board.
:D I'd noticed that too.....
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Ideally I'm probably aiming for something that's not too steep (approx 25-30 degrees - which I think is similar to the easier pudsey depot board?) as I'm keen to use it in part to rehab my wrist and I think anything steeper would be too much for it for a while. It would be good to set some circuits and just use smaller holds for setting harder problems.
Why don't you build it as steep as you would like to train on when healthy, and maximise the height, but install a big kickboard until you've rehabbed your wrist.
That way it'll feel like a less steep board when you need it to, but then you can just remove the kickboard when you are back at full strength.
I'm not sure we'll have it when fully healthy (otherwise we'd go steeper now). It's currently going in the spare room as we won't have guests for a while and, hopefully, we're off on a big van trip in about 6 months by which point it'd be down permanently, or at least fully dismantled for a while.
Ideally I'm probably aiming for something that's not too steep (approx 25-30 degrees - which I think is similar to the easier pudsey depot board?) as I'm keen to use it in part to rehab my wrist and I think anything steeper would be too much for it for a while. It would be good to set some circuits and just use smaller holds for setting harder problems.
Why don't you build it as steep as you would like to train on when healthy, and maximise the height, but install a big kickboard until you've rehabbed your wrist.
That way it'll feel like a less steep board when you need it to, but then you can just remove the kickboard when you are back at full strength.
James. Do not take the advice of a man who posts a video of himself using a heel on a board.
There is only one answer to the question of how big should a board be and that answer is as big as possible. Build it as wide as you can and build it as tall and steep as you can. You've got a decent height (more than I have) so it's possible that a 30 would work but for goodness' sake don't go less steep than that. Personally I wouldn't go less than 40 with the height you've got (you've about 20cm more height than me and if my board was a 30 it'd be shit). If you do a 30 board either don't have a kickboard or just a very small one. You'll need to move that light but it's not that big a job compared to the additional benefit you'll get from a deeper board.
I think it's looking like we'll go for the 2.4m wide and just use whatever height we can get out of it. though still torn betwen 25 & 30 degrees. Need to do a few more sums and work out where it comes to in the room etc. Wouldn't bother with a kickboard for either I think.
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There is only one answer to the question of how big should a board be and that answer is as big as possible. Build it as wide as you can and build it as tall and steep as you can. You've got a decent height (more than I have) so it's possible that a 30 would work but for goodness' sake don't go less steep than that. Personally I wouldn't go less than 40 with the height you've got (you've about 20cm more height than me and if my board was a 30 it'd be shit). If you do a 30 board either don't have a kickboard or just a very small one. You'll need to move that light but it's not that big a job compared to the additional benefit you'll get from a deeper board.
This.
Plus on kickboards, having had a 45 with a kickboard and now have one without, I'm personally of the opinion that they're basically cheating. Embrace the steepness.
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TomTom, Will - clearly if you have access to rock, then deliberately not using "technique" is something you'll get away with.
If your only climbing is on a board, and you have stupid rules to get strong instead of to climb efficiently, then frankly, you are a moron.
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Do not do a 25 degree board.
Am I right in thinking that you fall into the relatively weak but relatively fit category of climber? A 25 degree circuit board isn't going to do you any favours. You'll only further advance your existing strengths and weaknesses. I would very strongly advocate a 40 degree board, even if that necessitates some fairly generous holds at first.
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I'd strongly advocate building what you think is best for you and your other half to suit your needs, James.
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Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.
I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.
Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.
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James. Do not take the advice of a man who posts a video of himself using a heel on a board.
:D I'd noticed that too.....
Heel hooks FTW, and toe hooks around the side of the board, drop knees, knee bars, bat hangs, whatever you can think of. Way more fun, and varied, that way. This evening I'm planning on attaching some 2x4 off cuts half way up the edge of the board to use for some horizontal bicycle action.
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Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.
I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.
Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.
Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...
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Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.
I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.
Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.
I’d guess (from eyeballing it on pictures) that’s not far off Greg Chapmans board..
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Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...
Original Beastmaker version
https://vimeo.com/2795225
Updated more hipster version
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIOMkt8Dne1/?igshid=tdj1x6z6h9we
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Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...
Original Beastmaker version
https://vimeo.com/2795225
Updated more hipster version
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIOMkt8Dne1/?igshid=tdj1x6z6h9we
Been looking at those two recently - I think that they could work in our room but it would quite difficult to set up. Though it could probably be made adjustable which would be pretty cool!
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Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.
I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.
Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.
Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...
As if anyone is ever going to have visitors again :lol:
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Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.
I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.
Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.
I’d guess (from eyeballing it on pictures) that’s not far off Greg Chapmans board..
Pretty much, although it comes out to between 45 and 50 degrees (if he's telling you 55, he's a damned liar) and maybe between 3.5 and 4 pieces of ply. kicker was closer to 30 too.
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What materials would be best for a free-standing board - and what structures are recommended?
I'd guess 18mm ply, but other than that I've no idea really in terms of the surrounding support.
Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:
1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.
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18mm ply and 2x4s are your bread and butter. Lots of variations on those available, mainly around treatments (to prevent mold etc.) and quality (voids in the plywood, filler etc.)
For the supports, I think diagonals in to the wall at 2/3rds height are better as there's less to hit if you cut loose at the top of the board.
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What materials would be best for a free-standing board - and what structures are recommended?
I'd guess 18mm ply, but other than that I've no idea really in terms of the surrounding support.
Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:
1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.
I made type 1, and I put together a PDF for a friend that had the materials invoice, "blueprints" and accompanying pictures if you're interested in having a look.
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Sorry for (mild) thread hijack and probably stupid question but . . .
Is everyone who has built a board in that style happy that two 'uprights' of 2x4 secured by 18mm carriage bolts is strong enough to support the board & punter?
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Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:
1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.
Mine is a 45° free standing board with 3.6m climbing length and 2.4m wide. It's 18mm ply with 2"x4" timber for all supports, secured by M10 4.8 bolts (somewhat overengineered). I bought it from a retiring UKBer, their setup was symmetrical with 2 diagonals on each side, one at full height and one at 2/3 height. Imagine having the grey and red beams on both sides and no yellow beams (assuming I have successfully mastered embedding images on UKB). That layout would have compromised access in to the living room so I modified it to save space.
(https://i.ibb.co/94XVkFN/Board-Old.png) (https://imgbb.com/)
For my first layout, I tried the lazy option due to a lack of tools, I tried just omitting the longer diagonal so I only had the one diagonal support on the right hand side at about 2/3 height (shown in yellow). This set up had some serious flex problems with my 60kg weight. The board shook noticeably with each move and made a lot of noise if you did any dynamic moves or pinged off and it also took up more space than I wanted so I moved on to layout 2:
(https://i.ibb.co/7jGVpnb/Board-New.png) (https://imgbb.com/)
I moved the diagonal support to about half height and added in a vertical support as shown in green. It takes up less space than layout 1 and there's no noticeable flex now.
You could probably get away with just the diagonal support at 2/3 due to your smaller climbing surface but you might have a bit of flex.
I've never felt likely to hit the supports when falling or cutting loose. I don't have huge hold density along the edges, but I think I could go closer to the edge without it being an issue. If you set a lot of big moves to a finishing jug right in the top corner, hitting the supports might be a problem.
(https://i.ibb.co/m99FGgX/Board.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7nnNXLR)
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I love the fact that your board is in the living room. Maybe I should talk to the Mrs...
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Fairy lights! Ace idea 👍
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Sorry for (mild) thread hijack and probably stupid question but . . .
Is everyone who has built a board in that style happy that two 'uprights' of 2x4 secured by 18mm carriage bolts is strong enough to support the board & punter?
Mine has suggested nothing to the contrary. The very top of my board actually protrudes outside the triangle supports and no amount of weight or swing I have generated has indicated any sort of wobble in the base.
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Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:
1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.
Mine is a 45° free standing board with 3.6m climbing length and 2.4m wide. It's 18mm ply with 2"x4" timber for all supports, secured by M10 4.8 bolts (somewhat overengineered). I bought it from a retiring UKBer, their setup was symmetrical with 2 diagonals on each side, one at full height and one at 2/3 height. Imagine having the grey and red beams on both sides and no yellow beams (assuming I have successfully mastered embedding images on UKB). That layout would have compromised access in to the living room so I modified it to save space.
(https://i.ibb.co/94XVkFN/Board-Old.png) (https://imgbb.com/)
For my first layout, I tried the lazy option due to a lack of tools, I tried just omitting the longer diagonal so I only had the one diagonal support on the right hand side at about 2/3 height (shown in yellow). This set up had some serious flex problems with my 60kg weight. The board shook noticeably with each move and made a lot of noise if you did any dynamic moves or pinged off and it also took up more space than I wanted so I moved on to layout 2:
(https://i.ibb.co/7jGVpnb/Board-New.png) (https://imgbb.com/)
I moved the diagonal support to about half height and added in a vertical support as shown in green. It takes up less space than layout 1 and there's no noticeable flex now.
You could probably get away with just the diagonal support at 2/3 due to your smaller climbing surface but you might have a bit of flex.
I've never felt likely to hit the supports when falling or cutting loose. I don't have huge hold density along the edges, but I think I could go closer to the edge without it being an issue. If you set a lot of big moves to a finishing jug right in the top corner, hitting the supports might be a problem.
(https://i.ibb.co/m99FGgX/Board.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7nnNXLR)
Thanks Martin, much appreciated!
Out of interest, how difficult do you think it would be to make your setup adjustable?
I assume the base of yours is on a pivot unless there’s a kick board? And The side supports are also bolted?
I wondered if you added some additional holes on the horizontals that are on the floor whether you could loosen a few and just adjust where they bolt on the horizontals?
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I assume the base of yours is on a pivot unless there’s a kick board? And The side supports are also bolted?
Yes, the beams on the back of the board are bolted in to the horizontal base beams and could pivot. No kickboard.
You could make mine adjustable by putting extra holes in the horizontal beams.
It would be a two person job to adjust it though and it would take some effort supporting the weight of the board while you moved the bolts so I doubt I'd want to change the angle every session.
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Aye, my woodie is of a similar design to yours but 140cm wide with vertical height of 260cm, which with it being 40deg overhanging makes the climbing surface 324cm long.
Probes made and assembled it for me and split the top panels to make them light enough to easily lift and screw in place (he evidently had little faith in the muscle I could lend to the task!). With holds it's much heavier and even if it had the requisite extra holes in the struts, changing the angle would be very difficult.
Personally, I would not contemplate a board less than 30deg at that size. The 30 deg at the Pudsey Depot works because it has terrible footholds, lots of bad handholds, and it's wide, so you can set longer problems. With a small home board you want the potential to make the limited number of moves trickier without the holds being too repellent, and without commercial matting, I personally would not want to be continually skidding off smears.
What I've found really helps with setting problems on a steeper board, is having more than one separate set of footholds. My woodie has three - large, small but positive, and domes. When I devise a problem, I initially try it on any footholds, then on only small positive footholds, and then only on domes - you get more "value" out of problems and it's a nice way of gauging progression.
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+1 on the foothold thing
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I love the fact that your board is in the living room. Maybe I should talk to the Mrs...
I had planned to put the board in the cellar but got tempted by the higher ceiling in the living room so half of the living room became the board room. There wasn't anyone sensible around to veto that decision.
Added the fairy lights, a lamp, some pictures and some houseplants around it to stop it dominating the room quite so much. I'm not sure how successful that was...
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+2 on the footholds suggestion. Although you can also change it up so it's not only decreasing side / positivity of the footholds: I've got a 'good but in the wrong place / orientation' foothold option which adds some variety.
SDM: that's a lot of holds on your board - impressive! Just showed the photo to my girlfriend who thinks she'd become confused with that many options. Does that become a problem?
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Added the fairy lights, a lamp, some pictures and some houseplants around it to stop it dominating the room quite so much. I'm not sure how successful that was...
trying to hide a 3.6m x 2.4m board
I love this level of optimism
just brilliant :bow:
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+2 on the footholds suggestion. Although you can also change it up so it's not only decreasing side / positivity of the footholds: I've got a 'good but in the wrong place / orientation' foothold option which adds some variety.
I use different rules on feet to keep things varied:
1) the default: feet on any of the wooden footholds or foot jibs.
2) moonboard rules: bottom two rows of footholds are in, then feet follow hands (with the caveat that feet aren't allowed on most of the wooden handholds).
3) designated feet only. I find these are the hardest problems to set and get the difficulty right.
SDM: that's a lot of holds on your board - impressive! Just showed the photo to my girlfriend who thinks she'd become confused with that many options. Does that become a problem?
I don't find it a problem, I like having a lot of holds. It's good for variety, makes it easy to set replicas and I never run out of problems to set. It stops me feeling the need to reset so I've built up a massive library of problems for endurance work or if I'm feeling too lazy to set new problems.
All of the holds get used. There are 3 aspirational holds on there that I haven't been able to use in a problem yet but every other hold gets used.
I log all the problems on an app so it's easy to keep track of them.
Soon, even I'm going to have to accept that it's full and that I really can't squeeze any more holds on. There's still a few gaps though!
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Another idea I've had recently for foothold rules is only one allowed per row and / or per column, with no swapping.
Will only work if you have your feet in a grid pattern (I.e. I have four rows of six footholds set in line), but forces you into different body positions, especially high steps or bunched feet which is a weakness for me, or if you restrict columns as well means you end up going really wide too. Anything to force not using the easiest option.
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To illustrate, this is my woodie (although, the domes had not been fitted when this photo was taken).
(https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/140628840_10214926689400976_7775372830158498974_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=5UB3XBg9a7MAX8Ilhth&_nc_ht=scontent-lht6-1.xx&oh=44c692db8cadf776a6cd12dee70d24fc&oe=602E58EE)
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Will only work if you have your feet in a grid pattern (I.e. I have four rows of six footholds set in line), but forces you into different body positions, especially high steps or bunched feet which is a weakness for me, or if you restrict columns as well means you end up going really wide too. Anything to force not using the easiest option.
I've got a grid of shitty smears, all problems have 3 variants; 1) any feet, 2) handholds only for feet, 3) smears for feet. Sometimes 2) feels harder sometimes 3).
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SDM: that's a lot of holds on your board - impressive! Just showed the photo to my girlfriend who thinks she'd become confused with that many options. Does that become a problem?
I don't find it a problem, I like having a lot of holds. It's good for variety, makes it easy to set replicas and I never run out of problems to set. It stops me feeling the need to reset so I've built up a massive library of problems for endurance work or if I'm feeling too lazy to set new problems.
+1 for having high density of varied holds. I usually devise problems by trying to replicate boulder problems or the cruxes of routes on my "tick list". Having lots of different types of holds all over the board means I can do that without having to move holds. Re recording problems, I've made a topo of my woodie - a pdf / word doc with a photo and entries for when the problem was done on all footholds, on small positive footholds, and domes., either as set or the mirror image I print out copies that then can be marked-up with problems and successes.
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Interesting hearing everyone’s methods.
I’ve had three different feet sizes and just swap them around - so in the same place but harder to push on/stay on.
My board has quite a low hold density and I’ve probably only got 8-10 different problems on it (mirrored so double that). I do the same warm up and then cycle up through a series of harder problems that are all quite droppable.
So if I’m climbing well I get thought most of these quite fast and then make up one or two to try. If I’m climbing shit I never make it through the older repertoire.
Amazingly I’m not really bored of it yet - having had three different foot hold sets it’s climbed subtly differently (but enough) each time.
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Another idea I've had recently for foothold rules is only one allowed per row and / or per column, with no swapping.
Will only work if you have your feet in a grid pattern (I.e. I have four rows of six footholds set in line), but forces you into different body positions, especially high steps or bunched feet which is a weakness for me, or if you restrict columns as well means you end up going really wide too. Anything to force not using the easiest option.
I like this idea, gonna give it a go next session.
More broadly, I think having some foothold rules is underrated generally. A lot of boards these days seem to have a grid of feet and if it's just 'use anything' I find I get pretty lazy with the sort of movements I end up doing. Recently I've found setting problems with specified feet has made for some much more interesting problems.
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For some problems (when I remember), I try and ensure it goes hand movement, foot movement, hand movement, foot etc... this ensures I have a greater amount of moves per problem and so I don't get lazy and just bump the hands up from the same feet.
I also have a line on the board that once a hand goes above, the next movement must be me getting my foot off the kicker if it isn't already. This line is pretty low, so most of the warms ups use no kicker and typically the second move is always moving the feet up.
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Topic split? Some interesting stuff here that could get buried
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More broadly, I think having some foothold rules is underrated generally. A lot of boards these days seem to have a grid of feet and if it's just 'use anything' I find I get pretty lazy with the sort of movements I end up doing. Recently I've found setting problems with specified feet has made for some much more interesting problems.
I've a grid of small feet holds - and certainly have rules! Its also easy to make problems different/harder by spacing the feet more too - means you have to use something out of your comfort zone.
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Recently I've found setting problems with specified feet has made for some much more interesting problems.
Yeah 100%. I've found that rule is just a nice way of short cutting the process.
Also +1 for having really high hold density. I watched a YouTube video yesterday where a couple were stripping their entire wall in order to then set specific problems, and I couldn't understand why they were bothering. Having a big set of holds means problems just develop naturally, especially if you force yourself to think about either moves outdoors, or moves on other boards, and all without the massively time consuming faff of taking all the holds off and putting them all on again.
Here's the vid. Suppose whatever keeps you entertained atm but hardly good practice in my opinion.
https://youtu.be/N24yS-GQoxA
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Recently I've found setting problems with specified feet has made for some much more interesting problems.
Yeah 100%. I've found that rule is just a nice way of short cutting the process.
Also +1 for having really high hold density. I watched a YouTube video yesterday where a couple were stripping their entire wall in order to then set specific problems, and I couldn't understand why they were bothering. Having a big set of holds means problems just develop naturally, especially if you force yourself to think about either moves outdoors, or moves on other boards, and all without the massively time consuming faff of taking all the holds off and putting them all on again.
Here's the vid. Suppose whatever keeps you entertained atm but hardly good practice in my opinion.
One suspects that resetting their board is just a way to create youtube content that appeals to the masses. It may also be a difference between those that have a home wall for "training" and those who have one for leisure and replacing indoor climbing instead. Personally I am also a huge advocate of the hold density, the options are limitless. In an ideal world I would also have a blank section of wall that I could throw specific holds onto for recreating moves and problems.
I don't know anyone personally that has reset a board bar tweaking a few holds every now and then.
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Its also an aesthetics/taste thing... I personally don't like the splatter board approach - prefer fewer holds and more spaces...
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Has anyone had experience training on a really small board? Something like this;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AStmCRAWQk
I've got pretty limited space, but keen on the idea of some sort of training beyond just a fingerboard - just not sure how valuable this would be
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Going back about 8 years.. this was the only space I had when I took my cellar board down.. pretty mixed results.. certainly got stronger fingers and fitter fingers, didn't do much for anything else... but then I had a bar for arms and lever strength. Had quite a bit of fun on it stringing together different routines. The little board at blocfit came from these videos I am pretty certain of that.
https://vimeo.com/116292795 (https://vimeo.com/116292795)
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Its also an aesthetics/taste thing... I personally don't like the splatter board approach - prefer fewer holds and more spaces...
Agree to an extent. I have set problems mostly using a certain type / colour of hold but (above the bottom strip too low to use for handholds) I think I've got over 80% of the board full. I haven't done a rest and don't intend to, but have tweaked / extended some problems.
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Has anyone had experience training on a really small board? Something like this;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AStmCRAWQk
I've got pretty limited space, but keen on the idea of some sort of training beyond just a fingerboard - just not sure how valuable this would be
I have a tiny board in my cellar that isn’t too dissimilar to the one you have posted above. Same height wise although it’s around 30 degrees and a touch wider.
It feels worth having. I can do two-move wonders and go round in, very tight ;D, figure-8s. If I was to build it again I would make it steeper to get a bit of extra length.
In summary, if you’ve got the space, go for it. I really appreciated having something to put my shoes on for, but I am a sad bastard.
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Going back about 8 years.. this was the only space I had when I took my cellar board down.. pretty mixed results.. certainly got stronger fingers and fitter fingers, didn't do much for anything else... but then I had a bar for arms and lever strength. Had quite a bit of fun on it stringing together different routines. The little board at blocfit came from these videos I am pretty certain of that.
https://vimeo.com/116292795 (https://vimeo.com/116292795)
It was better on the lungs than that cellar board too!
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Interesting hearing everyone’s methods.
I’ve had three different feet sizes and just swap them around - so in the same place but harder to push on/stay on.
My board has quite a low hold density and I’ve probably only got 8-10 different problems on it (mirrored so double that). I do the same warm up and then cycle up through a series of harder problems that are all quite droppable.
So if I’m climbing well I get thought most of these quite fast and then make up one or two to try. If I’m climbing shit I never make it through the older repertoire.
Amazingly I’m not really bored of it yet - having had three different foot hold sets it’s climbed subtly differently (but enough) each time.
TT - as an aside, I think I ready that you just use liquid chalk? Does that keep everything clean?
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Not completely clean - but MUCH cleaner... and works great on the wooden holds. Nearly finished my first bottle got back in April!!
There is a film of chalk dust in less cleaned places in the room - but tbh it’s indistinguishable from the dust that settles in this house anyway!! (Wife hasn’t noticed/commented anyway...)
I was a bit sceptical - but a total convert now on the wooden holds. It’s ok on lime too - but shit on grit (for me at least)
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What type do you use that doesn't have resin in? I bought some of the stuff from decathlon, but after reading what was in it I only use it indoors.
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Rock technologies one. White bottle black label.
Got a bottle of the decathlon extreme one that I’ve only used once (just waiting for the other one to run out).
According to fiend - liquid chalk conessuer - the regular decathlon one isn’t much cop but the extreme one is good.
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Johnny Walker, brown bottle, red label one.
Bit sticky but after a few goes you’ll not care too much.
Approved by Fiend.
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Cheers TT!
Finally (now I’ve ordered holds and got dimensions sorted) what ply and structural wood is recommended? I guess 18mm ply and 2x4s but there’s so much variety.
We’re just using screw ons if it makes a difference.
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I used the cheapest that was there at B&Q (it was all that was available at the time)
The better stuff is stronger (paulB sent me a data sheet) - and can be more weatherproof (if that’s an issue). Some looks nicer (birch ply).
I’m happy with what I’ve got - but if doing it again I’d spend a bit extra on screws for the holds - get some decent branded ones as cheapo ones are not so good going in and can round a bit easier (esp of you unscrew and move etc..).
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+1 to TT's point on screws - decent ones are def worth it!
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Probably worth getting C24 over C16 as it's (generally) stronger for the same dimensions. I bought cheap ply for my board and it's fine, but I'd probably spend more on the ply if building again as the surface isn't great and there's a fair amount of filler been used.
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the regular decathlon one isn’t much cop
This is a major understatement, only use if you want everything to feel 50% harder!
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the regular decathlon one isn’t much cop
This is a major understatement, only use if you want everything to feel 50% harder!
+1, shit is moisturiser
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shit is moisturiser
Is it? Must try some on my face.
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Thanks for the responses on timber! I ordered it all today which should mean we're ready to start making it this weekend.
My first set of holds arrived and look awesome (from Taylormadeholds). Check them out on their instagram if you're interested - it's the set which have 5 campus rungs with them too. Gone for 50 holds + 10 smaller "chips" (i.e. smaller crimps) and 5 campus rungs which will hopefully go up the middle of the board. Have 30 dome foot holds too with half of them having a notch cut out to make them more positive.
Also got 16 "micro jugs" from core coming too for warming up / going around and around on.
We're going to go for 25 degrees (Sorry Will!!) but it's being made so that we could make it 30 degrees fairly easily. Should be great in the short(ish) term for some rehab and getting fitter again - we can take stock in a few months time and see if we think it needs making steeper then - though going much steeper would mean we'd be hitting the wall on the other side of the room if we came off.
My thinking is that we can use it at 25 for a while - get a set of problems / circuits made. And then wither switch to worse footholds, or just make the wall 30 degrees and do the same things. Or wear a weight vest.
Will be 2.8m length and 2.3m wide with no kicker.
Might not make us the strongest climbers ever but I've got good lank and hip flexibility to get me up things beyond my finger strength grade!
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I think you will find it underwhelming at 25/30 degrees. I have just built mine at about 40 with no kicker. I did short session on it yesterday after fitting the holds on it. The last time I climbed was October 2nd. If you are worried about it being too hard put some jugs on with large footholds. You can always put smaller holds on later.
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I think you will find it underwhelming at 25/30 degrees. I have just built mine at about 40 with no kicker. I did short session on it yesterday after fitting the holds on it. The last time I climbed was October 2nd. If you are worried about it being too hard put some jugs on with large footholds. You can always put smaller holds on later.
+1. Mines a 40 with no kicker too. I was originally wary about such a steep board as I'm very weak and was mainly climbing at Malham at the time; a vertical board covered in undercuts would have been more appropriate! But as it had to be compact (~1.5 metres wide), I chose an angle that ensured each move could pack a punch without needing to use holds like razors. I've now got a good variety of handholds and three sets of footholds (big, small positive, domes) and can set problems at a decent variety of difficulty and get a good beasting in 1-2 hours - perfect for a long lunchtime while WFH.
For me, while the Depot 30 is one of my favourite boards, I don't think such a shallow angled woodie would work so well in a scaled-down home format. That angle would probably necessitate using holds that are too aggressive on the skin for frequent use, smeary footholds mean lots of unpredictable falls that would need good matting, and the extended problems possible at the Depot might be unfeasible on a small woodie.
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+1 to the above. I think you'll regret having it at 25 definitely. Might get away with 30, but it'll still feel underwhelming.
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Quite possible/probable that it will be underwhelming. But it will work for what we want in the next 2-3 months. I couldn’t hold a cup of tea without pain not that long back and climbing something not that steep set it off again last time I climbed.
We also couldn’t really go much steeper without impacting on other uses of the room. I’m more than happy to go round and round on it so it should work okay for now.
Problems will be contrived for sure but that’s all part of the fun!
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Good choice on the holds James, I have a couple of TaylorMadeHolds and they’re nicely made.
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Don't listen to them, mine is 30 and yes, I need to have bad feet to make problems hard, but not all holds need to be razors - you can also go slopey.
I can warm up without fear of rupture, and my girlfriend can join me for a session. There is no global optimum. And even what's ideal for training might not be ideal for the constraints.
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Agree. What you have seems ideal for your all round needs. Enjoy using it.
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Yeah I'm happy and psyched! Will be perfect for me and my girlfriend. I've a great boredom tolerance for going around and around (though not for fingerboarding) so I'm be happy with short circuits that get repeated. My spring/summer this year consisted of a 6A traverse which once done I did there and back, then there and back and there, then there and back and there and back. Some the best fun climbing I've had given the lack of other options available ;D
Really looking forward to moving again!
We've got dome feet which May be a bit too positive once we're set up and back into it. So if anyone can recommend some real bad footholds I'll probably get some ordered soon :great:
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James - I have these on my 30 degree board
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-feet-board_1/
the positive way up is generally too good at my angle, but upside down they make great options for harder feet. would prob be ok for you at 25 degrees?
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I was just about to provide the same link as Duma. My local wall uses them as the 'bad' set on their circuit board which is probably at about 20-25 degrees. They're suitably rubbish
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So if anyone can recommend some real bad footholds I'll probably get some ordered soon :great:
I may have a bag of the old Metolius ones you can have for a nominal fee, I'll have a look. they are light to post.
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Jenga blocks.
I got an old set for a fiver off eBay. Hardwood 15mm edges. Perfect.
Thanks to Lagerstarfish for the recommendation.
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Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees
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Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees
Bivvy ledges 😄
Would second (third) the Core ones, give a great variety of options and you could have set right way up and a set upside down for variety. I’d stay away from any polished wooden dome style feet as I can’t stand them, but some people get on well with them.
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We've got dome feet which May be a bit too positive once we're set up and back into it. So if anyone can recommend some real bad footholds I'll probably get some ordered soon :great:
I bought some 50mm beech hardwood half balls of ebay - they are ideal bad footholds on the 30degree board. Once they get rubbered up, they get even worse.
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Yip I have some of those core ones as well and they are good/ hard. Have them positive side up on a 45 (feel v hard to use) and use them other way on the kicker - suspect this would give a good difficult foothold on a 25.
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I rate the Core screw ons. They're the intermediate option on my 40 board but they are all angled positive-side up. You could certainly make good use of them by playing with the different angles on your horrible 25 degree board ( ;)).
If you've the cash to splash, get some of the "screw on feet micros" from the same range. I have these angled edge-side up as the hard setting. You could experiment with the slopey side but that might be too gnarly.
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Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees
10mm (measured) and slick.
Get a whole packet for the price of 1.5 core screw ons!
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Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees
Agree. the ones I use are dirt by comparison. Can always take a plane to them though, or saw diagonally in half.
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No doubt they're cheap, won't stop them being too big. Basically, if they're usable on your 50 TT, then they're not suitable as a hard set on a 25. Could be good as intermediate or easy set though.
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I've got the slats from an old garden chair, they were free, doesn't mean they are good.
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Thanks for the recommendations - I ordered some core micro jugs last week for warming up. Probably too late to add anything to my order now unfortunately. Might see if the timber yard has any hardwood offcuts when I pick to wood up later today. Might be able to fashion some crap foot holds with a mitre saw too if needed.
Chris - I might take you up on that offer though, thanks. I'll drop you a whatsapp.
I rate the Core screw ons. They're the intermediate option on my 40 board but they are all angled positive-side up. You could certainly make good use of them by playing with the different angles on your horrible 25 degree board ( ;)).
If you've the cash to splash, get some of the "screw on feet micros" from the same range. I have these angled edge-side up as the hard setting. You could experiment with the slopey side but that might be too gnarly.
Are these the ones you mean, Will: https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-feet-micros_1/
The test of all of this will be if I can get up First Arete in a few months time.
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Those are the ones.
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I flog these on eBay as part of my 'retired by 40' plan:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293949864848
Harder feet for less steep walls especially on slopey side. Cheap, more resilient than domes, had good feedback. Message direct for UKB discount ;D
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Another question...
What do people use for home matting?
Our board (now made - YYFY!) is on the first floor so I’d like to and preserve the plaster on the ceiling beneath. We’ve got 3 pads but I’m wondering if something softer (gym crash mat) could be better, or used in conjunction with a pad maybe?
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For preserving plaster, I would imagine a big sheet of ply under all the pads would help spread the load. A friend has some gym crashmats, thought I havent tried them out, and another just uses bouldering pads and a mattress. Might be hard getring a mattress in to the loft though. Got any snaps?
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I have an old double mattress that I use as a base and cover with the 4 pads I’ve got. 2 are pretty knackered though. I could get away with the mattress and 2 pads but using 4 means I’m not moving pads around all the time. When I had a wider board I had a couple of clapped out single mattresses as well.
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We’ve gone for it in the spare bedroom rather than the loft. Floor will be plenty strong enough I think but just worried about the plaster. Will get some photos up once the final few holds are on and we’ve cleared all the crap from around it. Really happy with how it’s ended up - think the difficulty will be about right for us.
We’re going to try the first session with the 3 pads we’ve got. Hopefully they will suffice.
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Agree on sheet of ply. It's for spreading load on the flat, so just go for the thinnest available.
I've got old cushions from an old sofa we "discarded" Properly soft to flop into. The old feet are holds on the wall too.
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Agree on sheet of ply. It's for spreading load on the flat, so just go for the thinnest available.
I've got old cushions from an old sofa we "discarded" Properly soft to flop into. The old feet are holds on the wall too.
cot mattresses, covered in pvc table cloth fabric.
Or a double foam mattress covered in the same. I pick them up on Facebook marketplace. Got the double for £30.
I have padded out areas with cot mattresses, gaffered together and wrapped in cheap carpet. If you use loop stitch carpet, you can fix it all up with velcro.
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At one time one of the local climbing walls used mattresses with foam on top covered with a plastic covering on their bouldering walls.
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Here.
*Obviously* we use “real” mats to land on, but where I’ve padded up the wall beside the Moonboard, I’ve used for the upper a cot mattress and the lower is a double foam.
Honestly though, an 8’x4’ crash mat is ~£300 or less (for 200mm thickness).
(https://i.ibb.co/CBZBgSF/0373-E1-AD-B3-A2-4-D11-895-A-494-EDE266153.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/1XxbW6p/5-C2-DBD0-A-800-A-491-B-B633-17-EB8968-D490.jpg)
So, I spent £30 on the double mattress, the cot mattress I got free and the black cloth backed PVC I spent another £30 on. All fixed with black gaffer tape (B&Q cheapest).
Loop stitch carpet and velcro, is the way to go for more permanent, landing, mats though.
Even our main “real” mats are carpeted like that.
Take this bit, 120m², carpeted and linked up with velcro for just under £500 (a 25m roll of 100mm wide velcro is around £30 and you’ll find it all online). We’ll get ~2 years out of each section of carpet, even in a commercial setting.
(https://i.ibb.co/7pjBQNV/DAAD5686-8337-4-C04-B775-C3437-FEE56-DC.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/LtYR1x9/FDF0463-E-469-A-4-A5-D-9-F89-BD766165950-F.jpg)
Nowt fancy needed.
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Shagged out, low quality, single-bed mattresses that my neighbour was throwing out when I built the board. A single layer of bouldering pads over this (but only at the back or you'll be dabbing). Falling arse first off the first moves onto the mattresses is fine, but I wouldn't want to fall on them from height without the pads there.
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Here's the final product! Few holds left to put on but I ran out of screws...
(https://i.ibb.co/ZXzbDbh/569-D6-BFA-469-E-4-A36-8-CE6-B79-F1-CF09-CCE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1QG4W49)
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Tidy. Some nice looking wooden holds there.
Edit: that photo is a bit grainy. I think you need the Full Image BBcode?
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Hopefully that's worked out okay. We had a spare mattress which we've put under our pads and it seems to be fine for now. Not taken any proper falls yet and always climbed with a spot (some nasty corners of drawers/desks etc behind...).
Got a set of core micro jugs which gives a nice 16 move warm up circuit.
Have 50-60 holds from Taylor Made Holds - really nice to climb on and look real pretty as well.
He made some campus rungs too (not used them yet but think they will work nicely at 25 degrees.
Also have 35 footholds from him mix of the 50mm domes and some with tops cut off.
Got a few sillygoat holds which a friend sent (these are real nice too).
And a bunch of holds that my mate sent me - largely ones he made himself and then a few Hardwood Holds & Crusher (I think).
I'm finding it's small (I can reach the top) so need to do some odd problems, but I can also do 3-4 moves just going up. Had some good sessions with my partner on it and I think the mix of holds allows us to both find ways to try hard. Definitely going to be more of a longer problem board to get harder problems that I'll fail on more - but I'm pretty keen for that really.
Hopefully the second image is clearer?
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You'll start figuring it out and managed to get longer probs in, especially if you start doing across and up or diagonally up then across. And start creating arbitrary rules..
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Told you it needed to be steeper. ;)
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Told you it needed to be steeper. ;)
I think that steeper would probably be better - but it's already testing my wrist injury at this angle so I'm hoping to emerge in a few month back to the mediocre, fairly fit, fairly weak climber that seems to be able to use some technique and lank to climb above my strength levels ;)
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Looks like you're sorted on the matting front but for info my brother built a fairly low but wide wall in his cellar. He matted the cellar floor with 40mm thick 9lb reconstituted foam from Efoam (sort of thing that can used for gym mats). He got 3.8m by 2.2 m for approx £200, topped with
some carpet offcut it makes a really good base and together with a couple of old memory foam mattresses it works really well for a lowish wall.
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I’ve just spent the morning rejigging my board, because I received some new holds from Artemis (he has a FB store/page under Daniel Ward).
(I built it at 30⁰, mainly because I have a 40⁰ Moonboard, a 20⁰ Lattice board and a huge 30⁰ chaos board, but this is my 2.44x2.44 mtr board that I usually train on).
(https://i.ibb.co/dtpz4RG/80245-A73-BA27-4-B4-D-BCEB-316-B3-EBA6077.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/z4b8fW0/FEF0023-F-7-FAE-483-E-ABDE-2-A23518-DA8-DF.jpg)
No kick board, but I have a couple movable “Friction bars” that are made from nonslip decking strips on a piece of framing C16, cut so the strip is vertical.
(https://i.ibb.co/SnYbsXN/7-C9-A1-C56-562-B-42-D1-9926-76-D443-CB4-FD7.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/n8wW0ts/A35-E7700-1-C45-4-EF6-80-BA-5-C1285-ADC5-B8.jpg)
I have made a lot of holds, myself, from reclaimed hardwood furniture, that I find from time to time on FB marketplace, the mahogany came from an old pub bar that was ripped out, for instance.
But the purchased holds are always better.
There are loads of Crusher crimps and pinches, but the only pockets were the pair I made from the old bar. I saw the Artemis pockets on FB and wanted them. A pair of two finger and a pair of three finger, very nice, deep, and yet not too easy to pull on.
Two finger:
(https://i.ibb.co/0JDkFzW/B6-A03-DCD-987-B-4-E44-A08-B-39-E49-CD864-C3.jpg)
Three:
(https://i.ibb.co/y4K06Zc/D43-E1-B0-D-E636-4837-9464-4-A5-FE7-DE6-F7-A.jpg)
Also needed some intermediate edges (I had warm up Jugs and minging crimps and nowt in between) so put some “Woodies” on. Biggish (vary from a 28mm pair to a 37mm pair), the shape means they’re not too easy to pull on, but still comfortable.
My Tuffa is a bit of an oddity, perhaps, for a board; but it was something I wanted to work on, so it went on. It’s also useful for compression stuff with some of the vertical pinches either side of it.
Pretty much doubled up the foot jibs too.
A mix now of the Crusher round wooden jibs and Artemis resins.
The later can be rotated to increase/decrease positivity. This one is minimum pos. turn it 90⁰ and it’s a flat edge, turn it 180⁰ and it’s slightly incut.
(https://i.ibb.co/CwLq9Yr/6-C613-EDB-4794-485-A-9600-9-E67-C23-DEECA.jpg)
Oh and I’ve managed to improve my “Crack machine” which took too much chocking to use, in it’s first iteration. The scissor jack connection to the moving bar was too wobbly and so it had to be chocked with an appropriately sized block. Which meant a limit to the sizes it could be set to. That and the jacks were shit for closing it again. So a little stainless work, with a few quids wort of eye bolts, trampoline springs and joining nuts and it’s sorted.
(https://i.ibb.co/MMz9zNP/D722-CD3-A-11-BF-4-E87-803-B-1-ABF49-F6-F4-DF.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/S38r2VB/F9-EA5481-F0-F8-4366-AA61-2-E0818-FA4630.jpg)
I would like to find a better surface for the inside of the crack, though.
I think the wood is a little too smooth and Coo-Var, too sharp/rough.
I’m toying with a gritted/non slip lino, glued in. Anyone tried this or have a recommendation?
I know this isn’t strictly a home board, but it’s definitely “home made” and it’s amazing how these holds stand up to commercial use, some of those Crusher holds have been on this board for 8/9 years of commercial use.
Edit:
On the subject of foam.
It’s very expensive to buy foam. A crash mat, approximately 8’ x 4’ is less than £300. On our board, I’ve got one of those, behind two 4’ x 4’ 50mm thick gym mats, that cost £30 ea.
You’d be hard put to buy the foam alone at hose prices and whilst, yes, an old foam mattress would do the job, even a King size isn’t quite big enough.
You’d probably spend that sort of money on pads for the crag, too.
(https://i.ibb.co/2n4zrdQ/BC7-AD506-3723-4194-B97-D-E4-F2064-DA1-FC.png)
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[Jealousy-inducing images removed]
I would like to find a better surface for the inside of the crack, though.
I think the wood is a little too smooth and Coo-Var, too sharp/rough.
I’m toying with a gritted/non slip lino, glued in. Anyone tried this or have a recommendation?
Nice setup! For the crack are you taping up/wearing crack gloves, or going barehanded? I found for my crack that bare hands was pretty savage, and taping up or wearing gloves was a necessity if I wanted the session to last any length of time without pretty much bruising the back of my hands. Can't help with alternative materials I'm afraid though, have only used the wood.
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[Jealousy-inducing images removed]
I would like to find a better surface for the inside of the crack, though.
I think the wood is a little too smooth and Coo-Var, too sharp/rough.
I’m toying with a gritted/non slip lino, glued in. Anyone tried this or have a recommendation?
Nice setup! For the crack are you taping up/wearing crack gloves, or going barehanded? I found for my crack that bare hands was pretty savage, and taping up or wearing gloves was a necessity if I wanted the session to last any length of time without pretty much bruising the back of my hands. Can't help with alternative materials I'm afraid though, have only used the wood.
No, bare hand, which is probably daft.
I must see about some gloves, if only for training.
Tapping up sounds waaay to expensive, in the long run.
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Tapping up sounds waaay to expensive, in the long run.
Usually you'll cut the wrist strap off a tape glove so you can re-use it. Just takes a single wrap around the wrist to fix it back on again for the next session.
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I would like to find a better surface for the inside of the crack, though.
I think the wood is a little too smooth and Coo-Var, too sharp/rough.
I’m toying with a gritted/non slip lino, glued in. Anyone tried this or have a recommendation?
The WideBoyz sell lengths of the soft grip material they use on their crack volumes: https://wideboyz.com/product/soft-grip/ (https://wideboyz.com/product/soft-grip/)
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No, bare hand, which is probably daft.
I must see about some gloves, if only for training.
Tapping up sounds waaay to expensive, in the long run.
Yeah I definitely found gloves great for training. Tape works fine too, but much more of a faff for a training session IMO. And I think jamming gloves will last ages against wood.
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Slightly on topic: I'll be moving into a new place soon and we have a room that we'll be building into a little home gym.
2.4m high, and something like 4m wide and 5m long. Currently planning on doing two opposing boards, one 30 degree and one 45 degree.
So, the question: I've got about 25 campus rungs from the current setup we have, and was initially thinking about putting in small campus board at one edge - but the more I think about it, the more I think it makes sense to just have the two boards run the full length of the room on either side to get maximum climbing area, then chop up the campus rungs and shape/customise them a bit to get a load of extra wood holds with no extra cost.
Anyone fancy fighting the corner of the campus board or does this seem like good beta?
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Slightly on topic: I'll be moving into a new place soon and we have a room that we'll be building into a little home gym.
2.4m high, and something like 4m wide and 5m long. Currently planning on doing two opposing boards, one 30 degree and one 45 degree.
So, the question: I've got about 25 campus rungs from the current setup we have, and was initially thinking about putting in small campus board at one edge - but the more I think about it, the more I think it makes sense to just have the two boards run the full length of the room on either side to get maximum climbing area, then chop up the campus rungs and shape/customise them a bit to get a load of extra wood holds with no extra cost.
Anyone fancy fighting the corner of the campus board or does this seem like good beta?
Ditch the campus board :) Save the elbows!
I'd also suggest maybe 50 degrees or more for the steeper board? 30 - 45 might be too similar in how they climb (hold choice/setting caveats of course...)
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I'd personally go for the two boards at max size and then put some rungs on the 30, like James did
Here's the final product! Few holds left to put on but I ran out of screws...
(https://i.ibb.co/ZXzbDbh/569-D6-BFA-469-E-4-A36-8-CE6-B79-F1-CF09-CCE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1QG4W49)
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I'd not chop up campus rungs either, keep as they are. Loads of other bits of wood you can use if you need to, I made some "rungs" using an old curtain rod.
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Slightly on topic: I'll be moving into a new place soon and we have a room that we'll be building into a little home gym.
2.4m high, and something like 4m wide and 5m long. Currently planning on doing two opposing boards, one 30 degree and one 45 degree.
So, the question: I've got about 25 campus rungs from the current setup we have, and was initially thinking about putting in small campus board at one edge - but the more I think about it, the more I think it makes sense to just have the two boards run the full length of the room on either side to get maximum climbing area, then chop up the campus rungs and shape/customise them a bit to get a load of extra wood holds with no extra cost.
Anyone fancy fighting the corner of the campus board or does this seem like good beta?
Ditch the campus board :) Save the elbows!
I'd also suggest maybe 50 degrees or more for the steeper board? 30 - 45 might be too similar in how they climb (hold choice/setting caveats of course...)
I've got fairly solid elbows so this isn't an issue thankfully. In terms of board angle I'm planning on varying the hold selection fairly significantly between the two with a lot more sloping and generally poor stuff on the 30 - but the idea is that the 30 will be appropriate for endurance training as well so the holds need to be a bit better for circuits etc. I'm super keen on a 50 because it gets exponentially harder on certain holds than it does on a 45°, plus I've got some hold sets which are designed for maximum 45° (wataah dojo) so they might be too savage at a steeper angle. It still gets over 3m of board length in so I think it's steep enough.
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Nice one folks, I think I'll have a fiddle once the boards are up and then decide. Have to say I don't particularly fancy having full sized rungs on the board but maybe thats just me being picky.
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On the subject of foam.
It’s very expensive to buy foam. A crash mat, approximately 8’ x 4’ is less than £300. On our board, I’ve got one of those, behind two 4’ x 4’ 50mm thick gym mats, that cost £30 ea.
Foam4sports (https://www.foams4sports.co.uk/) were marginally cheaper when I ordered, and they helpfully added flaps and velcro for no additional charge.
I was also directed to these by someone else (but I asked a few questions via eBay and the responses didn't fill me with confidence):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KosiPad-Deluxe-Landing-Nursury-Training/dp/B01FW18QS4
I spent a lot on mats for the garage but then again, I've personally said hello to my tib and fib when landing on commercial mats and really don't want to do that ever again!
I should really put some photos up as I now have permanent power rather than several extension leads daisy chained together.
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You could get some customised rungs to suit the 30. I've done this successfully in the past a few times, up to 35, beyond this is a bit sketchy in terms of being useful for campussing. Done some brutal set ups for foot on campussing up to 45.
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You could get some customised rungs to suit the 30. I've done this successfully in the past a few times, up to 35, beyond this is a bit sketchy in terms of being useful for campussing. Done some brutal set ups for foot on campussing up to 45.
I think the thing that is putting me off is that I need 1-4-7 height to start getting a good power workout on the rungs (which I wouldn't have in this room) and if it comes down to endurance training then I'll have enough space for proper circuits on the 30 which is much more specific.
I know, I just need to wait see how it looks/feels when it's built.
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Nice one folks, I think I'll have a fiddle once the boards are up and then decide. Have to say I don't particularly fancy having full sized rungs on the board but maybe thats just me being picky.
Height is a good consideration. We can have 1-5 which will be fine for me in the short term but I’d want more if I stuck at it again for a bit.
Definitely find myself using that side of the board a bit less, though I’ve put more holds in between now which is helping. But you you need to go for small low profile holds to avoid hitting them when using the rungs
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@Mischa - many of my holds are probably best for a 40/45 (mines 53-55 deg) and I got some small mahogany wedges for a couple of quid off ebay and use these under the hold to tweak the angle to be usable... The wedges are only 8mm thick or so, so take off about 6-8 degrees...
If they ever too easy I can just take the wedge out :)
Also got some large wooden flat jugs - that are jugs on a 30, big, comfy but hard to hold (esp on a throw) at my angle..
ps - a small bit of double sided tape stops the wedges creeping fine...
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@Mischa - many of my holds are probably best for a 40/45 (mines 53-55 deg) and I got some small mahogany wedges for a couple of quid off ebay and use these under the hold to tweak the angle to be usable... The wedges are only 8mm thick or so, so take off about 6-8 degrees...
If they ever too easy I can just take the wedge out :)
Also got some large wooden flat jugs - that are jugs on a 30, big, comfy but hard to hold (esp on a throw) at my angle..
ps - a small bit of double sided tape stops the wedges creeping fine...
Proper tactics! I like it.
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Slightly on topic: I'll be moving into a new place soon and we have a room that we'll be building into a little home gym.
2.4m high, and something like 4m wide and 5m long. Currently planning on doing two opposing boards, one 30 degree and one 45 degree.
So, the question: I've got about 25 campus rungs from the current setup we have, and was initially thinking about putting in small campus board at one edge - but the more I think about it, the more I think it makes sense to just have the two boards run the full length of the room on either side to get maximum climbing area, then chop up the campus rungs and shape/customise them a bit to get a load of extra wood holds with no extra cost.
Anyone fancy fighting the corner of the campus board or does this seem like good beta?
If you have the whole room, these are a useful home build. It’s just four pieces of drywall framing C16, some 38mm Mop Stick (which is Banister dowel, or dowel with a flat on one side) and a few 120x6mm screws. A hole saw (37/38mm) too of course, but about an hour and a half’s work.
(https://i.ibb.co/SssD5W2/3-C172-E8-F-EF31-440-B-BC81-B9-E74-A55-B59-E.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/yNYxt96/3-A384615-A12-E-4-DB3-90-E1-BAFA90-E76930.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/R4VHXGn/F0-F27-D64-7-CA7-4-CA4-80-EB-4-AE78-CE3-EBB1.jpg)
Again, built in 2013 and used ever since.
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Slightly on topic: I'll be moving into a new place soon and we have a room that we'll be building into a little home gym.
2.4m high, and something like 4m wide and 5m long. Currently planning on doing two opposing boards, one 30 degree and one 45 degree.
So, the question: I've got about 25 campus rungs from the current setup we have, and was initially thinking about putting in small campus board at one edge - but the more I think about it, the more I think it makes sense to just have the two boards run the full length of the room on either side to get maximum climbing area, then chop up the campus rungs and shape/customise them a bit to get a load of extra wood holds with no extra cost.
Anyone fancy fighting the corner of the campus board or does this seem like good beta?
If you have the whole room, these are a useful home build. It’s just four pieces of drywall framing C16, some 38mm Mop Stick (which is Banister dowel, or dowel with a flat on one side) and a few 120x6mm screws. A hole saw (37/38mm) too of course, but about an hour and a half’s work.
(https://i.ibb.co/SssD5W2/3-C172-E8-F-EF31-440-B-BC81-B9-E74-A55-B59-E.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/yNYxt96/3-A384615-A12-E-4-DB3-90-E1-BAFA90-E76930.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/R4VHXGn/F0-F27-D64-7-CA7-4-CA4-80-EB-4-AE78-CE3-EBB1.jpg)
Again, built in 2013 and used ever since.
What would you do with it? 🤔
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Slightly on topic: I'll be moving into a new place soon and we have a room that we'll be building into a little home gym.
2.4m high, and something like 4m wide and 5m long. Currently planning on doing two opposing boards, one 30 degree and one 45 degree.
So, the question: I've got about 25 campus rungs from the current setup we have, and was initially thinking about putting in small campus board at one edge - but the more I think about it, the more I think it makes sense to just have the two boards run the full length of the room on either side to get maximum climbing area, then chop up the campus rungs and shape/customise them a bit to get a load of extra wood holds with no extra cost.
Anyone fancy fighting the corner of the campus board or does this seem like good beta?
If you have the whole room, these are a useful home build. It’s just four pieces of drywall framing C16, some 38mm Mop Stick (which is Banister dowel, or dowel with a flat on one side) and a few 120x6mm screws. A hole saw (37/38mm) too of course, but about an hour and a half’s work.
(https://i.ibb.co/SssD5W2/3-C172-E8-F-EF31-440-B-BC81-B9-E74-A55-B59-E.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/yNYxt96/3-A384615-A12-E-4-DB3-90-E1-BAFA90-E76930.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/R4VHXGn/F0-F27-D64-7-CA7-4-CA4-80-EB-4-AE78-CE3-EBB1.jpg)
Again, built in 2013 and used ever since.
What would you do with it? 🤔
Well, they’re still a staple of gymnastic training and such a simple thing.
Mostly body weight conditioning, but the addition of ankle weights or sand bags, can really push the strength dev.
Add a suspension trainer and a belt and you expand it even further.
All those Therabands hanging beside it, hook onto the bars at various heights for a variety of pushing and pulling work. I don’t have many clips of myself using it but heres a beginner level gymnastics conditioning vid:
https://youtu.be/Xvfi4hWw5tw (https://youtu.be/Xvfi4hWw5tw)
And from a couple of years back, some basic stuff I was doing at the time (still do). One of the clips is working posterior chain, with belt and sandbag (16kg) on the bars. Standing on the bars, about 30⁰ from vertical, means you are “clawing” in with your toes and you will feel the strain all the way down your posterior chain. Keeping the bag above your head is quite hard, if heavy enough. Sandbags make the load more distally unstable than simply clutching a kettlebell or a plate.
I also do my Dragon flags differently (and on the base board of the campus board, but that’s because it’s quicker than dragging a mat over to the wall bars). I prefer to lower to a gentle foot dab and raise to ~35⁰, replacing the higher end of the movement with “Toe to bar” on the high bar. If you have the ceiling height for a high bar, it’s great, but if you don’t, much can be replicated on wall bars. For ref. Those bars are 2.4 mtrs exactly.
Sorry, the clip is full of extraneous stuff.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BurDxwMhzDD/?igshid=ridgswxitth3 (https://www.instagram.com/p/BurDxwMhzDD/?igshid=ridgswxitth3)
That’s a bit old and taken just as I was starting recovery, I meant to replicate it later to see my improvement, then lost interest in posting clips of me exercising.
Also in the clip, I’m doing early stage “Push away Flies” on the rings. If you don’t have a full ring set up, these can be done on the bars with the suspension trainer. Moving your feet up as you get stronger, so your body comes closer to parallel to the ground as you get stronger, eventually adding a weight vest/belt etc. (if using the rings, you do this by gradually standing further back from the rings at the start, so that at the end of the progression, the rings are straight up and down at full extent of the “Superman” position.
All about engaging the entire Anterior or Posterior chains, rather than isolating any particular link.
Edit:
Oh yeah, Dip bars.
We don’t use them on the wall bars anymore, because there are adjustable dip bars on the squat cage. But you can buy or make dip bars that slot onto the wall bars. With a bench, these can be adapted for doing bench press. Put high enough, they’re a good Squat rack substitute.
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I couldn’t find a good suspension trainer/bar vid, so here’s a shit one. They’re doing the most basic of basic stuff, but this is a very short version of the TRX.
Obviously, Aussie pull ups get harder, the higher your feet, although they target slightly different areas as you move through the possibilities.
No idea what the “pull ups with your feet in the sling” are all about.
But, mainly the vid reminded me of the stretching uses too.
https://youtu.be/7rlonSkQAyo (https://youtu.be/7rlonSkQAyo)
Edit:
F me! I’m going to start making this shit. Thought I’d see how much premade Dip bars would be. Seriously, this is a couple of hours work with a Jigsaw and most of the labour is sanding the sods.
https://www.physioparts.co.uk/pedalor-dip-bar?gclid=Cj0KCQiA4L2BBhCvARIsAO0SBdZLFPcG3Ovp44OlbcNmNQHeWNRshhhbHp9u1uj_Dd_DeNekrNX39SEaApuREALw_wcB (https://www.physioparts.co.uk/pedalor-dip-bar?gclid=Cj0KCQiA4L2BBhCvARIsAO0SBdZLFPcG3Ovp44OlbcNmNQHeWNRshhhbHp9u1uj_Dd_DeNekrNX39SEaApuREALw_wcB)
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At the risk of undermining my own argument.
This is too funny.
“Gladiator Wall!!”
These are not the theraband exercises you are looking for...
https://youtu.be/8s77JJPkzUI (https://youtu.be/8s77JJPkzUI)
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Jenga blocks.
I got an old set for a fiver off eBay. Hardwood 15mm edges. Perfect.
Thanks to Lagerstarfish for the recommendation.
If anyone is after some budget crimps, I bought a Jenga Extreme set off eBay for a fiver.
They are the perfect shape for a basic 3/4 pad positive crimp for a 45. One hour with a sander to radius the edges and you have 54 wooden crimps for the price of one hold from most hold makers.
(https://i.imgur.com/d12mcGD.png)
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That looks a lot less than 3/4 pad!
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You're right. I just checked, they're more like half a pad.
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I’m hoping to put a good resting jug on our board for resting between circuits. I played around yesterday and just holding over the top seems perfect (if you miss the screws!).
It’s the basically holding the back of the 18mm ply so it’s quite sharp/splintery at the moment.
Any tips for making it nicer? I could try to round it off with a Sander on each side but it will probably be a massive faff as it’s close to the ceiling.
Or getting some kind of trim like this (not sure how it would hold up). https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000981615972.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.35042f14TE5Ox5&browser_id=1508c8e684644ff2a50b7e14f964ddeb&aff_trace_key=1477b8d701414d7bb9f59f9944dcc3f3-1641725235540-03035-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=00117e3e7311e92215e9a159532b751f5b681aa1ab&gclid=CjwKCAiArOqOBhBmEiwAsgeLmS11iRYSUNrJjFZsOMTyLIZVSbYcYO5oKz3vIVItq_OtHPX-jJbPMxoCFqIQAvD_BwE
Alternatively I could just Chuck a big resting jug on…
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A file might be easier if it's a tight space.
Screwing something like this on to the back side of the board might make it a bit more comfortable https://www.diy.com/departments/pine-half-dowel-doweling-l-2400mm-w-6mm/1821946_BQ.prd
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Height is a good consideration. We can have 1-5 which will be fine for me in the short term but I’d want more if I stuck at it again for a bit.
You could always use a lot smaller rounded edges and do shorter moves if there’s another lockdown or have focused period.
Just an option.
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A file might be easier if it's a tight space.
Screwing something like this on to the back side of the board might make it a bit more comfortable https://www.diy.com/departments/pine-half-dowel-doweling-l-2400mm-w-6mm/1821946_BQ.prd
Hadn’t thought of that kind of thing, thanks! Going to get some of this at the weekend: https://www.diy.com/departments/smooth-natural-pine-angled-edge-moulding-l-2-4m-w-20mm-t-20mm/1821911_BQ.prd