UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: shark on July 20, 2020, 02:11:52 pm
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Bumped into Dawid this morning.
He has continued the Ace along the break to finish on the slab on the left - Lifeline 8B.
He’s also done a couple of quality problems at the right side of the Tor
Generation Game 7C
Sit start below Rattle and Hump up to the break to its left then to undercuts in a block above to finish on the R&H jug
Exodus 8A+ or 8B
Sit start immediately right of the fallen tree on pockets and head directly to a goodish hold on 15feet
Videos to follow when he finds time
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I can'y quite imagine what that looks like..?
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(https://cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/climb/106378380_medium_1494103151.jpg)
I couldn’t picture it either, but this image gives an idea where the Joker block problem goes.
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I can'y quite imagine what that looks like..?
Maybe means starting as for The Ace, or even the lower bit in the cave, and then traversing all the way left along the break?
So not actually anything to do with the Joker (or The Ace I suppose) apart from being on the same block.
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"break" to me means something that takes gear, that's a seam! Looks bonkers hard though, great to see a vid.
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Why the confusion? - the line is obvious.
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Why the confusion?
I think because you said ‘continues The Ace’, when it would seem this problem starts in the same place but doesn’t actually share any moves with The Ace or The Joker.
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He said you start as for the Ace. I don’t know what that involves. Do you have hands on the break/ seam to start that? I thought it started lower
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Decent.
Everyone else look away a minute...
Shark: For your first 8b, nip up to the top of the ace block and lay down on your belly. Slide forwards then hang off your toes a while. Tickle the starting holds then reverse.
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Not sure exactly what Dawid's done here.
I heard he was working a problem starting in the cave and traversing into the dyno Full House.
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I was there one day in winter when David was working this traverse.
Iirc he was basically starting in the break of the ace (the chalky part of the break in the photo) then traversing the seam, he then dropped down to the 'shield' down and left of where the horizontal bit of the seam ends before continuing leftwards round onto the slab of honorary caley. I'm not sure where on the slab he headed up though as I never saw him get round the corner.
The climbing looked pretty decent on it, better than the line maybe suggests. A good one for those strong power endurancey folk out there.
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I've seen a couple of overlaping vids. It starts on the Ace jug, goes left along the seam, down to that shield, up to a smile-shaped thing, to the arete, rocks round, traverses the slab to finish up the left arete of the slab. All in a straight sorta line. It looks amazing.
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I've seen a couple of overlaping vids. It starts on the Ace jug, goes left along the seam, down to that shield, up to a smile-shaped thing, to the arete, rocks round, traverses the slab to finish up the left arete of the slab. All in a straight sorta line. It looks amazing.
Cool cheers, so yeah nothing really to do with the Ace apart from starting on the same hold. Sounds good!
Not sure exactly what Dawid's done here.
I heard he was working a problem starting in the cave and traversing into the dyno Full House.
Sounds like that link is still up for grabs. Which again would be very cool.
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Thanks for the clarification. Beast!
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That seam always looked like such an obvious line. I stroked the holds a few times and thought it was probably impossible. Great work!
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Sorry for confusion. When he said starting as for the Ace I thought he meant doing moves on that which made sense to me as I mistakenly thought the Ace started lower in the cave.
Looking at the Stanage guide the “Joker Wall Project” is described as the “futuristic line going along the horizontal crack then punching it out for the top” (where Full House now goes)
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Generation Game footage of his son Joachim climbing it (one to watch out for) and also a link up from Powerband (Powergame 7C+): https://www.instagram.com/p/CC6wnXCl73D
I have some poor footage of Exodus I can DM but Dawid will post a better version shortly
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Looking at the Stanage guide the “Joker Wall Project” is described as the “futuristic line going along the horizontal crack then punching it out for the top” (where Full House now goes)
Or Wild Card..
Does anything actually use the seam where it goes vertical? I thought WC would / did, but it doesn't. Or is it just too shit to be of use? (the seam that is)
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This vid gives a good closer view of the lines on there now. Guessing the link from right in the back of the cave (I.e. lower than The Ace start), and then going along the crack into Wild Card would be the hardest problem on there?
https://vimeo.com/242495943
Also, it is amazing how utterly piss they both make Full House look.
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looks like a bit of chalk in the vertical seam there maybe he tried to use it and decided it was too crap.
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Also, it is amazing how utterly piss they both make Full House look.
Giant people make dynos look easy shocker 😄