UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => get involved: access, environment, BMC => Topic started by: SamT on July 15, 2014, 10:03:44 am
-
The other topic has gone off on a bit of a tangent..
Can we try and keep this topic as a pure list of jobs that need doing/have been done and leave all the ethical conjecture to other threads. :)
Raven tor
Remove and relocate a shockingly badly placed bolt on a route right of indecent.
There is a dodgy bolt or two around Mecca extension/Kaaba junction.
Top section of Tin of + move lower off above break.
Obscene\ toilet lower off needs replacing.
The replacement of all the bolts and lower off on Call of Nature is not of immediate concern but they are made of substandard materials so will need doing sooner or later.
The only worthwhile route right of here to do is Mortal Combat.
There are a few old bolts/studs to remove on Hot Flushing’s and Hooligan.
Rubicon
There is a lot of tiding up to do here and there is a case for placing/replacing discreet lower offs on some of the trad routes. Apparently they are quite good and having top roped them all I would consider the damage caused by cleaning the top outs unjustifiable. Gardening the top outs would need to be done regularly with the added danger of falling debris onto a busy footpath.
New discreet Belay points for the following routes are worth considering.
Jezebel, jaws, Piranha, White Bait, Millers Tail
The collection of routes that finish up Dragon Flight currently rely on a single bolt.
Bolt on Jezebel
As for sport routes there is Too Old/Bold, Tribes,
Eugenics?
Belays for Too Old, Eugenics, Tribes, need to be done, Not sure what the caviar belay is like.
Last but not least, Bastard and the rubbish to the right of Rubicon roof.
Moat Buttress
Two Sheep to Leicester and Searching For the Yeti. That is if the latter is still possible.
Crunch Buttress
Mission impossible
Karma Killer belay
Agent Provocateur
Perfecto
Trainer Tamer
WCJ Cornice
The dole
Ape index
Yorkshire 8b mix of rubbish
The weakling (some)
Brachiation Dance
Free Monster (better lower off arrangement)
Superfly
Eclipsed
Glue machine
Sirius
Atilla the Hun
Dale cornice
There are 7 routes to do left of Taylor Made namely the power trip routes, but rarely come into condition.
Nemesis couple of bolts
Malcolm X
A few on roof warrior and cry of despair
Poppy Fields lose bolt in odd position
Armistice Day bolts all in wrong place
Big zipper and bored bolts are a bit random and as it is so popular could really do with the full resin treatment. Clarion too?
42
Butterflies
Think that’s it here?? Too Pumpy For Grumpy has got 2 lumps of rust. Not sure which way to make it finish to avoid the blocky finish? Greendale has an unsatisfactory lower off position.
Nook
All sorts?? Life in the old log
Bit of Nookey
Storm
and old bolt removal from Lockless & Theora.
Nettle Buttress
Not too familiar with this but Stung is particully bad.
Two-Tier Buttress
Dodgy lower off on reboot
Stogumber Club
Why Me
Orange Sunshine
Start of Minos and bolt out left on Aberration
Buster
Lightweight
7 pounds
Long Wall
First bolt on Kiss hardy now out of reach. The joint lower offs above this are quite poor
Moldwarp wall
Balancing act/trick show have lost their belay.
Breathless.
Embankment
Don't know but there will be something here.
Stone The Loach and Arachonothera amongst others
Beginner’s wall
Let’s get Physical and a load of old bolts to chop. Lets Get Fossilized is done but not the direct
[/quote]
-
Did the dragon flight belay and the bolt on Jezabel last night.
The top outs on there are nigh on impossible. I had a right fight with brambles, bushes, spikey things just to down to ab off. Its also a dodgy business in terms of trying not to knock loose rock down onto the path.
I now know where to ab off a little better though (having climbed into a tree that overhung the edge so I could spot where the top out was :o ) , so will get eventually get round to the ones to the right.
-
Nice one Sam.
Is there a lower off for Jezebel as well then ?
-
There is - its couple of manky hangers/krabs just below the top.
Its on the list!!
-
OK cheers
-
The storm has been rebolted?
-
Really?
I was giving this a clean Sunday on the old bolts.
Not saying you are wrong but the Rockfax topo is completely wrong if you were using that as a reference. A friend has bolted a project just right of Santiano that passes the roof left of the large rock scar on Rock Umbrella near the peg & tat.
-
No, I thought by the red writing on the list that it was either in progress or had been done
-
Stuff in red is additions to the list. Crossed out is done.
Cry of Despair may need crossing out but that is not confirmed.
-
Cry of Despair has ben given the full glue-in treatment with the exception of the first bolt which is still in good nick and lacking non-hollow rock for a replacement. The old kit is still in place as people were redpointing when the glue went in. Will try and tidy this up next time I'm down although if someone fancies doing it for me that'd be welcome.
Roof Warrior is up next, hopefully in the next week.
-
So, the PBF now has plenty of glue and fresh 18mm drill-bits, all to match the new found enthusiasm of those that went to the workshop.
:2thumbsup:
-
The Storm is now mostly clean with a new temp lower off.
It will be easy for someone to get on and get those lovely new resin bolts in.
I have "found" a good jug to yard to just above a new belay point so its now got an extra move and a logical finish. Get on it now if you want the bolts are bad but just hang in there!
-
Guy VG and myself rebolted Stung on Nettle Buttress last night. This mean's Esmerunga can also be climbed on good bolts all the way now.
Lower-off still original as this looks fine. 5 new PBF resin bolts placed and the old hangers removed (apart from the first one if anyone fancies doing so).
Due to inexperience two of the bolts are a few degrees off vertical but still fine.
-
Guy VG and myself rebolted Stung on Nettle Buttress last night. This mean's Esmerunga can also be climbed on good bolts all the way now.
Lower-off still original as this looks fine. 5 new PBF resin bolts placed and the old hangers removed (apart from the first one if anyone fancies doing so).
Due to inexperience two of the bolts are a few degrees off vertical but still fine.
A friend has just been down and believes the glue hasn't set
PLEASE DON'T CLIMB STUNG FOR THE TIME BEING UNTIL IT CAN BE CHECKED
They've put a note on the climb advising of the above
-
Glue sets pretty fast in this weather. It's always worth keeping a sample bit to check it has gone off properly (preferably the first proper squirt of a new nozzle after you've discarded the first very first bit). In this weather you'd expect the sample to be solid before you reach the deck.
New resin does have a greasy residue so it's possible they may have mistaken this for unsetness.
-
cheers, went back today to give them all a test - the resin does seem greasy, the test splodge is greasy too but solid as a rock. I dogged up on the bolts, tried to move them by torquing with a screwgate as kc had suggested and there wasn't any movement at all. I'm satisfied from my amateur position. I'll be climbing there on Tuesday.
Will the resin always do that or is something about the weather? We'd expected it to set and be completely dry in next to no time like you'd said.
-
I'm glad this looks OK. Thanks for getting down to check Guy.
-
As Bonjoy says it usually does feel tacky and sticky when it's just set.
-
Most resins I've used leave this sort of residue regardless of setting conditions
-
nice one
-
I'm glad this looks OK. Thanks for getting down to check Guy.
thanks for the tutoring
-
I've rebolted Fishing Without a License 7c on the right hand side of the Embankment (easiest to approach from below rather than bash through the bushes along the base of the crag). The old bolts are still there and need removing, which I'll try and get sorted at the weekend
-
great stuff, never even heard of it, does it look any good?
-
Great to see some new people getting stuck in! Don't forget you can borrow a drill and other stuff from the BMC via me if needed. I was back at Horseshit Quarry today doing some prep for some filming, checked all the bolts which had been put in on the workshop - totally bomber. Keep it up folks :)
-
great stuff, never even heard of it, does it look any good?
It's on the wall to the right of embankment. Get's 2 stars in the most recent rockfax which I can only assume is based on one of the guidebook writers climbing the route. So must be worth 3 stars now it's not a deathtrap!
Well done Mark. Shall look forward to checking it out.
-
Yeh it's good, fierce and fingery getting into the scoop - a 'testpiece' according to the old BMC guide. Nice rock, more like Max than Embankment. I glued down one wobbly foothold, should be OK but be gentle.
Thanks Dan, good to know!
-
I finished rebolting Why Me yesterday. Still needs old bolts removed and a good brush to remove all the debris but should be down that way tomorrow.
There's tape on the first bolt, just in case people wanted to get on it yesterday after I'd left, although the sample was solid as I was leaving.
-
Excellent, good work
-
An update on the list.
Raven tor
Remove and relocate a shockingly badly placed bolt on a route right of indecent.
There is a dodgy bolt or two around Mecca extension/Kaaba junction.
Top section of Tin of + move lower off above break.
Obscene\ toilet lower off needs replacing.
The replacement of all the bolts and lower off on Call of Nature is not of immediate concern but they are made of substandard materials so will need doing sooner or later.
The only worthwhile route right of here to do is Mortal Combat.
There are a few old bolts/studs to remove on Hot Flushing’s and Hooligan.
Rubicon
There is a lot of tiding up to do here and there is a case for placing/replacing discreet lower offs on some of the trad routes. Apparently they are quite good and having top roped them all I would consider the damage caused by cleaning the top outs unjustifiable. Gardening the top outs would need to be done regularly with the added danger of falling debris onto a busy footpath.
New discreet Belay points for the following routes are worth considering.
Jezebel, jaws, Piranha, White Bait, Millers Tail
The collection of routes that finish up Dragon Flight currently rely on a single bolt.
Bolt on Jezebel
As for sport routes there is Too Old/Bold, Tribes,
Eugenics?
Belays for Too Old, Eugenics, Tribes, need to be done, Not sure what the caviar belay is like.
Last but not least, Bastard and the rubbish to the right of Rubicon roof.
Moat Buttress
Two Sheep to Leicester and Searching For the Yeti. That is if the latter is still possible.
Crunch Buttress
Mission impossible
Karma Killer belay
Agent Provocateur
Perfecto
Trainer Tamer
WCJ Cornice
The dole
Ape index
Yorkshire 8b mix of rubbish
The weakling (some)
Brachiation Dance
Free Monster (better lower off arrangement)
Superfly
Eclipsed
Glue machine
Sirius
Atilla the Hun
Dale cornice
There are 7 routes to do left of Taylor Made namely the power trip routes, but rarely come into condition.
Nemesis couple of bolts
Malcolm X
A few on roof warrior and cry of despair
Poppy Fields lose bolts in odd position that get used by the routes either side by mistake/cos the there creating rope drag.
Armistice Day lower half bolts all in wrong place
Big zipper and bored bolts are a bit random and as it is so popular could really do with the full resin treatment. Clarion too?
42
Butterflies
Think that’s it here?? Too Pumpy For Grumpy has got 2 lumps of rust. Not sure which way to make it finish to avoid the blocky finish? Greendale has an unsatisfactory lower off position.
Nook
All sorts?? Life in the old log
Bit of Nookey
Storm
and old bolt removal from Lockless & Theora.
Nettle Buttress
Not too familiar with this but Stung is particularly bad.
Two-Tier Buttress
Dodgy lower off on reboot
Stogumber Club
Why Me
Orange Sunshine
Start of Minos and bolt out left on Aberration
Buster
Lightweight
7 pounds
Long Wall
First bolt on Kiss hardy now out of reach. The joint lower offs above this are quite poor
Moldwarp wall
Balancing act/trick show have lost their belay.
Breathless.
Embankment
Don't know but there will be something here.
Stone The Loach and Arachonothera amongst others
Fishing without a license
Beginner’s wall
Let’s get Physical and a load of old bolts to chop. Lets Get Fossilized is done but not the direct
Thats 3 routes down. Well done those involved. I am sure you have done a good job.
Take care out the boys and girls as the wildlife trust are not a happy bunch and take offence to bolts.
If you are approached just tell them that you are replacing old gear on safety grounds, which is true!
We may have to start painting camouflage on our bolts the way things are going.
-
Poppy Fields lose bolts in odd position that get used by the routes either side by mistake/cos the there creating rope drag.
A couple of UKBers did this last night and it was so close to the surrounding routes that I was rubbing shoulders with them most of the way!
Armistice Day lower half bolts all in wrong place
They don't seem to bad to me, the one over the roof is a little high but I've seen it clipped by a very very short person. They don't seem to weave too much either?
Big zipper and bored bolts are a bit random and as it is so popular could really do with the full resin treatment.
Nat is on this ATM. She's clipping one bolt above the obvious seam that's in a shoddy state (and fairly tricky to get a draw in if you're her height) and although there's a lot of bolts about, there's also a lot of climbing squeezed in?
Butterflies
Bonjoy commented to say the upper half of these were fine, the bottom 3 were terrible.
-
I though Poppy Fields was an OK route but the bolts could do with sorting out. First half is alright, but the moves just to the right of Clarion could do with a bolt round the bulge so you aren't facing a nasty fall onto the slab. Then remove the next bolt (the one you can clip from the crimp on Clarion creating loads of rope drag - or maybe move it further left ?)
Armistice Day bolts seem to take loads of sideways forces and the hangars are always spinning, it does need sorting IMO
The last 2 bolts on Big Zipper/Bored need replacing. The bolts on the wall below all seem good though. Beezlebub belay needs replacing.
I'm away next week might have a bit of time after that to sort some things out. But would be good to get some opinions re Clarion/Poppy/Armistice because I don't want to the fuck them up
-
The lower bolts on bored of the lies were replaced by myself in 2010 using peak bolt fund kit as they were looking suspect and I kept falling off on them.
I have no idea why I did not replace those higher up. Possibly because I was climbing the route using its traditional finish and did not use them.
-
An update on the list.
Can cross off Why Me as well as mentioned further up the thread, shouldn't be much hassle for someone to do Orange Sunshine as well now that the shoddy lower-off has been replaced.
-
To add to the list for re-gearing if anyone wants an obscure short route to do: All My Pegs in One Basket, an 8a "crack" in Tideswell dale climbed on fixed gear (pegs, stuck hex), now rotten. Actually looks quite good.
-
Poppy Fields lose bolts in odd position that get used by the routes either side by mistake/cos the there creating rope drag.
A couple of UKBers did this last night and it was so close to the surrounding routes that I was rubbing shoulders with them most of the way!
There's no solution to this short of chopping the bolts! Moving bolts to there are not accessible from clarion call or armistice day will improve things but I don't know if this is feasible, if Jon was on it last night perhaps he can advise?
Armistice Day lower half bolts all in wrong place
They don't seem to bad to me, the one over the roof is a little high but I've seen it clipped by a very very short person. They don't seem to weave too much either?
I get the impression this relates to the Poppy Fields problem. Replacing the bolts on Armistice with glue-ins would be a good move as Mark said.
Big zipper and bored bolts are a bit random and as it is so popular could really do with the full resin treatment.
Nat is on this ATM. She's clipping one bolt above the obvious seam that's in a shoddy state (and fairly tricky to get a draw in if you're her height) and although there's a lot of bolts about, there's also a lot of climbing squeezed in?
These top bolts (i think there are two near the seam) could be replaced with glue-ins.
Replacing all the bolts with glue-ins on the popular routes from martial to bored would be a good move i think.
To add to the list for re-gearing if anyone wants an obscure short route to do: All My Pegs in One Basket, an 8a "crack" in Tideswell dale climbed on fixed gear (pegs, stuck hex), now rotten. Actually looks quite good.
Mark will be up for that!
-
Replacing all the bolts with glue-ins on the popular routes from martial to bored would be a good move i think.
Really?
Personally I see no sense in replacing bolts that don't actually need it given the expense. It's a nice thought and in an ideal world perhaps, but for me, it's not a good use of (limited) resources.
Bear in mind that the fund currently has bolts and glue but the recent order pretty much cleared it out.
These top bolts (i think there are two near the seam) could be replaced with glue-ins.
Best done at the same time as another route if that's the case.
-
Yes I was meant to cross off Why Me but forgot.
For those of you that don't no or remember that the original bolt on Armistice day is the one very high up the grove by the big side pull. The low spinning one down and left and the one on its side by the pocket up and left are on PF. So what I am saying is look at it with fresh eyes and ignore what is there now and place them all in sensible positions. That goes for Zipper/Board.
With regards to Clarion I would personally like to retain that bit of "Spice". The route has history.
With regard to the lower off on Zipper/Board which is fine, there is an awful lot of people that grab or clip long draws off the lower jug for an invalid tick.
-
Replacing all the bolts with glue-ins on the popular routes from martial to bored would be a good move i think.
Really?
Personally I see no sense in replacing bolts that don't actually need it given the expense. It's a nice thought and in an ideal world perhaps, but for me, it's not a good use of (limited) resources.
Bear in mind that the fund currently has bolts and glue but the recent order pretty much cleared it out.
well no actually. I didn't think that sentence through properly. I was thinking in the long run, so not relevant to this discussion about what needs doing now.
-
For those of you that don't no or remember that the original bolt on Armistice day is the one very high up the grove by the big side pull
:worms:
I'm confused by this, you rumble up some big sidepulls with the dirty foot ledge then step left via sidepull pocket until you're beneath the roof. There's then a long stretch round to put the clip in around the roof. The poppyfields roof bolt is about 4ft or so to the left at this point.
Are you saying the original was up near the roof? Whatever combination I clipped last night didn't seem to weave at all (as I said above)...
well no actually. I didn't think that sentence through properly. I was thinking in the long run, so not relevant to this discussion about what needs doing now.
;D
-
Regards LATB - the bottom 3 (possibly 4) bolts are non-stainless and fairly rusty. The ones above are stainless and in sound condition, though one has a loose nut that needs spannering. The top bit would benefit greatly from a dogging bolt as it's very diagonal and much harder than when the route was first done.
-
The crux bolt on Armistice was its second bolt. The first bolt is very high when climbing on mud. That is why PF bolts are also clipped. Both spin and aren't in in ideal positions for AD. It is not hard to position new bolts in a better spot.
-
On a more logistics-related note, a few of us were thinking the other day that maybe we should set up a google document or similar so the list can be kept up to date more easily. Could also have extra fields for stuff like if the old kit has been taken out or not which might help co-ordinate efforts.
Unrelated but whoever took the leaver biner off Cry of Despair is a prat unless there's a good reason for this.
-
The beauty of glue in bolts and the new bar hangers is that the unsightly bail biner and tat can be dispensed with. All very important with the increasing access issues. "To be seen is to be vulnerable". But yes a plain crab left in the back of a roof is very handy.
-
I though Poppy Fields was an OK route but the bolts could do with sorting out. First half is alright, but the moves just to the right of Clarion could do with a bolt round the bulge so you aren't facing a nasty fall onto the slab. Then remove the next bolt (the one you can clip from the crimp on Clarion creating loads of rope drag - or maybe move it further left ?)
Im glad you thought it was an OK route - not an opinion shared by Hayden
7a+ bag of.... has 2 independent moves on it
It is definitely squeezed in but the only moves it shares are the very start of Armistice and the finish of Clarion and the shake out jug in the middle. I tried to place the gear so it wouldn't be clipped from either but clearly failed in that respect. If it is generally felt to detract too much from Armistice and Clarion then the best solution is write it of as a misconceived idea and debolt it.
-
maybe we should set up a google document or similar so the list can be kept up to date more easily. Could also have extra fields for stuff like if the old kit has been taken out or not which might help co-ordinate efforts.
Good idea, they've done something similar in Avon. I guess it could be embedded in the thread too? Or at least a snapshot.
-
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NXzn5dDD7Q5L-EB-IyNEt1TjW9fqA7NQrrFFx_hKbD4/pubhtml
This what people are thinking? I'm sure it could be improved in some way.
The doc can be edited if you have a link. If you want link let me know and I'll PM it to you.
Doc is published as a webpage that updates automatically when doc is edited, although I think there is a bit of lag. It might be possible for a forum mod to embed the webpage in a post.
Bit of trust involved in allowing anyone with a link to edit.
-
Having one that logs where the gear is, fair enough.
I'm not sure of the wisdom of going beyond this and I'm certain it was discussed previously.
-
Based on Pauls comment and the earlier stuff said. I've scrapped the spreadsheet idea. The list on here should be sufficient imho. :badidea:
-
The beauty of glue in bolts and the new bar hangers is that the unsightly bail biner and tat can be dispensed with.
It'd probably sadden you to see the bail biners left on glue-ins that can easily be threaded at the Cornice (in the past week).
-
I thought the spreadsheet was a good idea, in so much as re-quoting the list everytime on here is crap and bound to cause confusion.
-
would it be more acceptable if it just had a list of what needed doing?
-
I thought the spreadsheet was a good idea, in so much as re-quoting the list everytime on here is crap and bound to cause confusion.
That's what I thought too. I realise that the issue of who has permission to edit it needs to be resolved because otherwise someone will f**k it up like everything on the internet but apart from that it seems like a much better solution. I'm sure editing permissions could be sorted out easily enough one way or the other.
-
I think Paul's point, that has been discussed elsewhere, it that to avoid liability we shouldn't keep a list of who bolted what.
If people are keen, and there aren't any objections, for a spreadsheet of just what needs doing then I'll just delete the offending columns and re-publish the speadsheet.
-
Spreadsheet just to record what's been done/needs doing is a good idea imo.
Tin of belay has been repositioned above the break, (with an extra hole cause someone didn't think through the placement properly, ahem :-[ ) and rusty bolts have a new glue in. Bolt leaving the groove doesn't yet as drill packed up before it could be finished. Old gear's still in place.
-
If people are keen, and there aren't any objections, for a spreadsheet of just what needs doing then I'll just delete the offending columns and re-publish the speadsheet.
Do it in google docs - then share - others can then update/alter/edit etc... Much easier.
-
I thought the spreadsheet was a good idea, in so much as re-quoting the list everytime on here is crap and bound to cause confusion.
That's what I thought too. I realise that the issue of who has permission to edit it needs to be resolved because otherwise someone will f**k it up like everything on the internet but apart from that it seems like a much better solution. I'm sure editing permissions could be sorted out easily enough one way or the other.
GoogleDocs allows you to revert back to previous versions of documents, in a similar way that Wikipedia does. So if someone were to mess up the GoogleDocs Spreadsheet, all the old content would still be there.
-
Yeah and it logs who edits it. You can also control who edits it. I've used google docs for lists/timetables etc.. For group activities of c.30 people and never had any problems or people pissing about on it etc...
-
Nemesis - new bolt added where the loose rusty one is - old bolt needs removing still.
I wanted to sort out the lower off but struggled to find suitable rock to do so I ended up adding a single lower off bolt, so now you can thread the rusted krab and bolt and not be reliant on a single rusted to fuck krab. I felt this was the best I could do, feel free to critique.
-
Here you are... if no-one else was going to do it heres a google spreadsheet. Anyone can edit it - but they need the link (which is not publically searchable etc..)
http://tinyurl.com/plzdphj (http://tinyurl.com/plzdphj) (edit - just shortened the URL so search engines won't track it - old link will still work etc..)
(I really know nothing about peak bolting work - so change the column names/etc.. or someone else do it who knows more than me!!)
-
Thanks tomtom :2thumbsup: There might be 2 spreadsheets now!?!
-
No worries - thats great - I'd rather people did their own one than use mine (just put up as an example really..) and circulate around the relevant folk..
TT
-
This new bolt (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4WE4p6SLXOnS1NJaVBNMmpnVFk/edit?usp=sharing) at head height on Beginner's Wall was pointed out to me. Not sure why it's there, might be useful for keep the rope out the way. Anyone know anything about it?
-
This new bolt (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4WE4p6SLXOnS1NJaVBNMmpnVFk/edit?usp=sharing) at head height on Beginner's Wall was pointed out to me. Not sure why it's there, might be useful for keep the rope out the way. Anyone know anything about it?
Don;t know who put it in or why, but I used it the other night so that I didn't have to take a swing into the bushes after stripping Lets get Fossilised.
-
That was placed by Zips and myself. It's just a thunder bolt so can be unscrewed if it offends you. It was placed cos the first bolt is quite high and protects a move Mark struggled on. The idea was to keep the rope out of the way so you don't fall into it.
By the way original 8a+ looks good but needs new gear.
-
The list so far is pretty much all north peak, the following southern things need re-equipping:
All of Bend Tor – Actually pretty good routes back in the day
Dovedale – Church buttress – have never checked the crag out
Beeston – Think 666 and Honorary Buoux need new bolts. KC will know details.
Ossams Chimney – Two old 7cs (one may need reclimbing since a breakage) of Zippy’s and a semi trad sport E5 on threads.
-
That was placed by Zips and myself. It's just a thunder bolt so can be unscrewed if it offends you. It was placed cos the first bolt is quite high and protects a move Mark struggled on. The idea was to keep the rope out of the way so you don't fall into it.
By the way original 8a+ looks good but needs new gear.
I'm not offended by it - and as I say, it was useful when lowering off. The Original LGP is quite good - it has quite a stern move on it.
-
Where does it go? Was a bit unsure when I did the 7c+ version the other week. Do you get a lh crimp then rock up r and gaston a hold you use with leftvon the easier version? Is there any reason to finish up the choss or would it be the same finishing up the c+…?
-
It goes directly above the left hand end of the ledge where Fossils wall spans left into undercuts. LG Foss comes in from the right end of the ledge. Mark went rightwards into the choss because it made it more independent. Yet again the R Fax topo is misleading. Also Malcs bigger slap is a direct finish to middle age spread incorrectly marked in the R Fax.
Lets get Fossilised claimed by JC in2009 may well have been climbed before because it is the line of least resistance and no extra bolts were added. It could be what John Dunne did when claimbing to flash the 8a+.
-
The Original LGP climbs from the left end of the shelf. My beta:
LH Jug on LHS of shelf,
RH crimp in the small vertical crack on the LHS of shelf,
LH over onto horizontal crimp above the small crack,
RH gaston crimp below the pocket by the bolt,
Roll over LH into pocket.
Finish as per the 7c version.
It's not yet been climbed into LGFossilised.
It's widely assumed that JD went up the 7c/+ version on the flash.
-
At the ridiculously dry and deserted Cornice today the 6c+ down the end "Further Adventures in Greendale" has a new (on route) top bolt and the 7b+ to the left "Too Pumpy for Grumpy" has had its ring pull hangers replaced with some chunky twelves.
Well done Keith.