UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Monolith on February 17, 2008, 04:25:06 pm
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Old school testpiece Monoblock at Pex Hill has had its cobwebs blown off and been reascended by Mick Adams today. Details are sketchy but hopefully some pictures will follow. Crouch..?
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Is Monoblock the one with the newer indirect start which everyone does instead of the original STRAIGHT up?
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Good work, I bet Will Hunt's creaming himself as we speak... ;)
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I see you've been subjected to Will's incessant Pex droning too then...
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Heard of it; climbed @ Pex - but never had it pointed out.
Basic info and photos (any) required, bitte.
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"Holds the size of atoms....well spaced ones too" etc etc
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Cool. As someone who's done this I'm keen to hear what Mick made of it. For those not in the know its classic just off vertical Pex crimping - tall, totally non-eliminate and not squeezed in, pretty old now too. There is slight variation between the exact line taken by Joe Healey on the FA and everyone else; Phil Davidson, me and and Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.
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He claims to be on cloud number 9 right now and apparently Peaks has some images that'll go up soon no doubt.
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out of intrest, what font grade does this get?
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It always seemed to get 7c+, but that might be "I climb at Pex all the time and I'm used to the style" 7c+. Fairly highball if I remember correctly.
Andy P is probably your man for gen. C'mon Mr. Popp, opinions please.
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Yeah, it seems to get 7c+ but this is more or less inspired guesswork, I don't really have a clue about that sort of thing.
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Cheers for your input, Andy :lol:
I suspect the fact it's only had a handful of ascents in many years (when did Joe Healey do it?) says one of two things:
1. It's Brick Hard, or
2. It's a venue people don't travel to very often.
I vote for both.
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It was done mid to late 80s. It probably hasn't been tried extensively by outsiders. Steve Dunning has tried it but not exhaustively. I think I'm right that Mick has tried it more than once before. Anyway, its a brilliant problem, nice to see it getting some attention.
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fucking hell, 13 posts about monoblock and andy F hasn't showed up yet. :o ;) ::)
nice effort mick.
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fucking hell, 13 posts about monoblock and andy F hasn't showed up yet.
Yeah, I'm picking my words very carefully this time around. :whistle:
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Old school testpiece Monoblock at Pex Hill has had its cobwebs blown off and been reascended by Mick Adams today. Details are sketchy but hopefully some pictures will follow. Crouch..?
Details are simple... Mick pissed it, a very inspiring ascent indeed. He's tried it many times before, but not much in recent years. Mick abbed down it a few months ago to clean it up again but it was still a bit green higher up. No photos I'm afraid as I was too busy spotting and the legend that is Crouch hadn't turned up yet.
Conditions at Pex are awesome at the moment. Amazing friction and dry enough to top out stuff like Catalepsy etc.
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Yes, yes, that's all very well, but did he say anything about the grade?
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Yes Andy, he passed on his thoughts on the grades of the big three... Catalepsy, Breakaway and of course Monoblock. Mick didn't really argue with 7c+, given how long it's taken him and the great conditions yesterday. Pete's now goading me into trying it too. :-\ ::) I doubt I'll get up it but I'll have a go for a few years before giving up.
Mick also felt that Breakaway was little different to when he last did it (a couple of years ago at least) and I was surprised to see him take a fair few goes to get it ticked (Mick normally eats stuff under 7b+ for breakfast and I've seen him flash 7b+ slabs). I also climbed Breakaway (having only tried it once a few months back so can't comment on whether the hold has changed much) and thought it harder than the 7a you suggested after the "chipping" incident. More endless discussion on the grade is probably required...
Catalepsy is also in fine nick and I topped it out, reasoning that 7a is a likely grade for this in the guide (although I'm open to persuasion if people feel the need to).
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screw ons only, no apostrophes.
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screw ons only, no apostrophes.
Duly noted and corrected. And I hate those type of errors too. I may punter myself later. Once I've wadded you for pedantry of course.
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Word.
Is it possible to punter yourself? I am intrigued to see, but first wall session of the year awaits.
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Catalepsy is also in fine nick and I topped it out, reasoning that 7a is a likely grade for this in the guide (although I'm open to persuasion if people feel the need to).
7a+ was fair for Catalepsy I alway's though. Great to see Monoblock get a repeat, and the grade confirmed. Now get to it Ben, it must be the last thing to tick on that section for you.
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7a+ was fair for Catalepsy I alway's though. Great to see Monoblock get a repeat, and the grade confirmed. Now get to it Ben, it must be the last thing to tick on that section for you.
Your thoughts on Catalepsy are noted Andy. I was heading towards 7a due to the ease at which Mick did it and the way that I did it several times with no trouble. I guess its a thing you can get wired. I'm certain however that Breakaway is still at least a grade harder. Tough for the short too.
As for me ticking the wall... far from it mate. Staminade is my main project this year there, but I'll check out Monoblock next week if dry.
Is it possible to punter yourself? I am intrigued to see, but first wall session of the year awaits.
If you can't do it yourself, I find that my mates are the best at puntering me off a problem. A right bunch of twats. ;)
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Cant believe I missed this! Great effort by Mick.
:great:
If anyone can confirm a new grade for Breakaway it would be cool.
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Ben you are the grand master chief of puntering, i also see your learning the art of Hustling ;)
Get on monobloc Ben!!!
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Ben you are the grand master chief of puntering,
I bow before your puntering talents though.
If anyone can confirm a new grade for Breakaway it would be cool.
There has been a lot of discussion about this and at the moment it seems to be settling around 7b, but a low end one at that. The reasoning being that it is still a fair bit harder than Catalepsy and Catalepsy seems to be stuck on 7a+ (despite my suggestion that it goes down a grade) due to the large numbers of independent, non-locals that have suggested that grade. Although there was a furore about the hold improvement on Breakaway last year, it doesn't actually seem to have been altered much according to various people who've been on it before and after the "improvement". I know that Andy P thinks it's well easier now, but the general reply to this is that he's a beast on small holds and much stronger than he thinks he is! And also that the hold is actually still rather small and still makes for a hard move. I cannot comment on the hold change as I didn't try the problem until recently, but having climbed it recently I do think that it's a grade harder than Catalepsy.
In my opinion Breakaway is very worthy of attention, particularly if you can't reach the left hand little crimp with feet in the break - shorties get a better move than lanky people I reckon!
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:-\ Ben dont play the innocent mate ;)
You taught me every trick that i know, including sewing prawns into somebody's curtains
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Cheers for that, Ben. Will have to take another look at Catalepsy with that in mind. Is a top rope inspection of the upper section advised for someone who would be climbing just about at their limit in the lower section?
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:-\ Ben dont play the innocent mate ;)
You taught me every trick that i know, including sewing prawns into somebody's curtains
The mind boggles!
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:-\ Ben dont play the innocent mate ;)
You taught me every trick that i know, including sewing prawns into somebody's curtains
Is that why beef curtains smell of prawn?
Did I just say that?
:whistle:
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when was the last time you sampled the delights of the fairer sex??? ::)
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Is a top rope inspection of the upper section advised for someone who would be climbing just about at their limit in the lower section?
Not if it's dry! The climbing isn't hard from the big pocket to the top, just a bit high. Maybe English 5b. Most important is ensuring that the top slopey break and the actual top are dry and not too green. There is a branch/root that could assist topping out, but using it would be a cop out in my view. You don't need to anyway, its a simple mantel.
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Mantle :)
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Mantle :)
No, mantel. As in mantelshelf... http://www.thefreedictionary.com/mantelshelf (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/mantelshelf). I'm not talking about the Earth's crust, or even the mantle of being UKB's biggest pedant. ::)
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantle_(climbing) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantle_(climbing)) interestingly.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantle_(climbing) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantle_(climbing)) wrongly.
I quote... "To mantle or mantel in rock climbing is to perform a specific move, typically to get a climber up onto a ledge. The term is derived from the phrase mantel shelf and derives from the shelf above a fireplace."
Fuck me, I can't believe we're having this discussion! Oh yeah, I've got work to do, that'll be why I'm still replying...
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See last two lines.
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What a terrible waste of time and effort. Shameful. However, the last ten minutes were a good ten minutes and I got a fair bit done. Looking up on the work front. Then I opened up UKB again.
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Just happened across a photo of Pete Chadwick on Monoblock. Looks thin, unsurprisingly...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=83684
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That pic is awful and shows nothing.
Is there still no better pic than this antique, something head on?
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Good effort on the send Mick, have stood below Monoblock a few times and have on occasion had the balls to cast a furtive glance up it but not actually even dare to try and pull on. Looks nails.
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As the not so 'antigue' photo shows a certain local also did this last week.
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I'd heard said local was injured :o Fine effort indeed.
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I heard the same too! Excellent effort Pete :beer2:
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James repeated this today, took him about 6 or 7 goes.
Good effort considering the rain, will post some photo's later
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Excellent stuff!! Good to see people getting down with the Pex flavour...
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Good weeeeerk lid.
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(http://i40.tinypic.com/23vb0v8.jpg)
and dateline
(http://i43.tinypic.com/25kng4j.jpg)
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Good pics Jim.
Good effort on the climbing too James.
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It was done mid to late 80s.
1985 IIRC
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Dat's well boss, lad. Wish I was home now.
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(https://i.imgur.com/bSy8Ntr.jpg)
I was wondering if anyone had any idea when Phil Davidson repeated Monoblock? And Andy Popp?
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Did Phil repeat it?
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Yes, Phil did it. I think I did it during foot and mouth, whenever that was.
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Yes, Phil did it. I think I did it during foot and mouth, whenever that was.
Thanks Andy, I was hoping you'd reply :)
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Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.
That was while he was waiting for a knee op. He went back after op and topped out.
Ps. Did you ever go back and top it out Andy?
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(https://i.imgur.com/bSy8Ntr.jpg)
I was wondering if anyone had any idea when Phil Davidson repeated Monoblock? And Andy Popp?
This is from Joe Healey.
From Joe. think it was 84 but not 💯 sure may have been 85.phil did it a week or so after but did the easier more direct start
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Good knowledge, thanks Adam.
Seems like it was a pretty hard piece of climbing for the time...and now! Doesn't seem to get many repeats at all.
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Good knowledge, thanks Adam.
Seems like it was a pretty hard piece of climbing for the time...and now! Doesn't seem to get many repeats at all.
Probably a style too…. And if you are short you have no chance. Min 5’10?
Cant remember how tall Andy is.
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Never mind
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Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.
That was while he was waiting for a knee op. He went back after op and topped out.
Ps. Did you ever go back and top it out Andy?
Yes, Pete obviously did it subsequently to my post.
I assume that what Adam is referring to here is that when I "did" it the actual top out was gopping and I used a rope (which I made no bones about with friends at the time). Not perfect but I was happy enough with what I did, which was without top roping or pads - I don't mind if it's removed from the record, such as it is.
I'm a bit over 5'10.
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Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.
That was while he was waiting for a knee op. He went back after op and topped out.
Ps. Did you ever go back and top it out Andy?
Yes, Pete obviously did it subsequently to my post.
I assume that what Adam is referring to here is that when I "did" it the actual top out was gopping and I used a rope (which I made no bones about with friends at the time). Not perfect but I was happy enough with what I did, which was without top roping or pads - I don't mind if it's removed from the record, such as it is.
I'm a bit over 5'10.
It was a genuine question wasn’t a snipe.
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Don't worry, I didn't think it was. It's a legitimate question whether I can really claim it.
And no, I never did.
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Don't worry, I didn't think it was. It's a legitimate question whether I can really claim it.
I am not sure of ethics at Pex but i guess its a similar thing to WSS at BW?
TBH doing it without mats is impressive enough.
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Good enough for Varian on The Young...
How much of the top was missed and how hard is the climbing there?
Ground-up without pads is impressive! How are your knees?!
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How much of the top was missed and how hard is the climbing there?
Ground-up without pads is impressive! How are your knees?!
I climbed up into the last couple of moves but it absolutely minging. I don't how hard it is but obviously much easier than what's below. I definitely abbed it to clean it but honestly can't remember whether or not I tried any of the moves.
I think WSS is a bit different. I did it to the break many times but never did the top - I wouldn't ever claim it.
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Seems like it was a pretty hard piece of climbing for the time...and now! Doesn't seem to get many repeats at all.
It can be somewhat green for much of the year. I spent a decent amount of time at Pex last winter where conditions were often damp and unclimbable. Hoping for a mild crisp spell soon.
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My perception, it could be wrong, is that a lot of the harder stuff in Cheshire doesn't get repeated very often because North Wales is so close. Once people get to a certain point in their climbing they're more likely to gravitate to the Cave and volcanic bouldering. Obviously there are exceptions to that but I think it goes some way to explain (in addition to tricky conditions, its highball nature, out-of-fashion style) the lack of repeats.
I've mentioned a day at Harmer's to friends who would very quickly knock off any 7C you'd care to point them at - as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.
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- as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.
Superficially small as in everything is undergraded? Are you attempting to balance out all your downgrading by upgrading a whole crag? 😂
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I've mentioned a day at Harmer's to friends who would very quickly knock off any 7C you'd care to point them at - as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.
That's sad. I think there is still room for some very hard direct lines at Pex.
There have been a few recent excellent harder additions to the local sandstone, perhaps coax your pals over to check them out Will via a detour to show them at Pex they're not as good as they think they are ;)
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This thread is bringing back halcyon memories of mocking Crouchy for being a lanky bastard when he repeated it. He is, but it was still an impressive feat.
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- as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.
Superficially small as in everything is undergraded? Are you attempting to balance out all your downgrading by upgrading a whole crag? 😂
No, not at all. To put it a different way, the techy, subtle nature of the climbing means you might not knock out as many of Grade X in a day as you might expect to on a more basic style of climbing.
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My perception, it could be wrong, is that a lot of the harder stuff in Cheshire doesn't get repeated very often because North Wales is so close. Once people get to a certain point in their climbing they're more likely to gravitate to the Cave and volcanic bouldering.
This concept is what makes some of Mike Adams first ascents even more impressive to me. Dodging motocross bikes and heroin needles to climb 8C in a quarry in Doncaster!
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This thread is bringing back halcyon memories of mocking Crouchy for being a lanky bastard when he repeated it. He is, but it was still an impressive feat.
Still happening :2thumbsup:
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Anybody know if Termination has ever been soloed? Down in the guide as 7a+ but heard stories it's never been done. Anybody know or done it ?
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Anybody know if Termination has ever been soloed? Down in the guide as 7a+ but heard stories it's never been done. Anybody know or done it ?
I know Beau Constance was close, not sure if he's done it. I never figured out the move, it felt way harder than problems of similar difficult in the quarry.
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Ukc logbook shows Beau has done Termination. Alongside some other bloke who also onsighted Monoblock (slightly sceptical there).
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Alongside some other bloke who also onsighted Monoblock (slightly sceptical there).
Would be interested to see the date assigned against that as I was at the quarry multiple times a week over the past couple of years (where regulations permitted). I don't recall seeing Monoblock non-green during this period.
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There's also this photo of some other random pearson on Monoblock, in the Miscellaneous other Achievements thread:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8806/17180717305_0fb55d349f_b.jpg)
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25701.msg484290.html#msg484290