UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on October 24, 2006, 11:00:04 pm

Title: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Pantontino on October 24, 2006, 11:00:04 pm
Just got off the phone from Ding Dong. The boy has really gone and done it now:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=211

Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Houdini on October 24, 2006, 11:14:33 pm
Hmmm...   I'm figuring a solo would be a more accurate description.  (No mats, see.)  Grand effort though, good to see that Katz' pulling-off of a sicca'd hold a few years back hasn't stopped ascents.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Pantontino on October 24, 2006, 11:25:27 pm
The non use of mats was not a style statement; he just didn't have any with him.

Ding Dong reckoned the new method was very finger friendly (which sounds great), but I seriously doubt the mooted V8 grade. Throbber told me he thought it was harder than Bungles Arete, albeit with the original painful method.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: dave on October 24, 2006, 11:50:10 pm
that looks well brown.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Ru on October 25, 2006, 09:18:45 am
Cool, I'd always fancied the untouchables, and even if it turns out to be a bit harder than V8 it's still a bit more amenable than I was imagining (not sure what I was imagining though). Think I need a Wales trip in the next few weeks. Are the bolts coming out (which would mean that it would need to be ground-upped in the future), or will they stay in?
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Bonjoy on October 25, 2006, 09:43:31 am
 I'd have thought the bolts would stay in until it's been done ground up, if they were to be removed
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Houdini on October 25, 2006, 09:52:54 am
I can assure you, if they get removed they will return.  This is a route.  Not the biggest, but a route nonetheless.  Feel free to solo it (or boulder it out with or without mats) but don't deny others the opportunity to use a rope.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Fiend on October 25, 2006, 10:42:20 am
Agree with both of Houdini's comments. A grand effort sans mats. E9 7a? ;)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Doylo on October 25, 2006, 11:49:45 am
ha ha. go ding dong
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Jim on October 25, 2006, 02:22:59 pm
does this mean everything that gets solo'ed is now a boulder problem?
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Houdini on October 25, 2006, 02:35:06 pm
Yep, Mount Everest.  Chilling V2.  Seeps a bit, like...
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: dobbin on October 25, 2006, 02:48:38 pm
Only Dai kamikaze would dare claim everest as a boulder problem...  ;)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Pantontino on October 25, 2006, 03:25:09 pm
Not sure I follow the logic of your question Jim. It's a micro route with a good landing and, save for one slightly wiggy 6b move, all the hard climbing is pretty close to the ground.

Most micro routes are 'potential' boulder problems, are they not? Technology (pads) and a general increase in climbing standards means that what was once a 'route' for one generation, can become a highball boulder problem for another generation.

That said, I wouldn't particularly advocate taking the bolts out because someone (presumably Houdini ;)) might want to climb it how it was originally done.

And BTW, there's no way that Everest is V2, UK tech 2a at the most!
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Nibile on October 25, 2006, 03:30:23 pm
there's no way that Everest is V2,
yes, if you use si o'connor holds and sequence.
sorry guys, i couldnt resist.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Dr T on October 25, 2006, 03:47:45 pm
there's no way that Everest is V2,
yes, if you use si o'connor holds and sequence.
probably make it V16 but the holds are around the back and he did it whilst no one was looking
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: mireeves on October 25, 2006, 05:16:54 pm
Twas an awesome effort I can't open the link so don't know what you wrote simon. But he removed the quickdraws having worked it on a rope, so he couldn't reverse down.

Awesome effort, I wish I wasn't filming as I only got to see it through a view finder!
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Paz on October 25, 2006, 05:46:59 pm
there's no way that Everest is V2,
yes, if you use si o'connor holds and sequence.
probably make it V16 but the holds are around the back and he did it whilst no one was looking

During the recent fire fight between Chinese border guards and Tibetan refugees.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Houdini on October 25, 2006, 06:32:47 pm
There are better contenders for fixed gear removal in Wales.  Jiggit E6 6C RAC crag left hand is ripe for the taking.  20 year old pegs.  Recommended this a while back.  I've been there recently and discovered that the landing is far flatter than I remember.  Go get it!

Actually I've no interesting doing the Untouchables.  But to take the bolts out would be to irrevocably change the proposition (and the history) for others who would like to try.  It would also smack of hubris.  I promise I will replace them if they are removed.  It is not the same as doing a line without rusty unreliable ancient pegs.

EDIT - For rantage.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Ru on October 25, 2006, 08:51:48 pm
Sorry, I wasn't trying to suggest that the bolts come out, I was genuinely interested cos I'd like to go and do it. With the bolts in.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: dave on October 25, 2006, 09:21:14 pm
just looked up this route in the slate guide. gives it 6m long. now i don't happen to have my sextant on me, but it looks bigger than that in the photos, unless mr dyer is a midget and the spotter is stoood further away than he looks.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: richieb on October 25, 2006, 09:41:06 pm
Nice one Neil!
Now....can I have my guidebook back please? ;)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Houdini on October 25, 2006, 11:52:29 pm
Dave, it's words like Sextant that make life worth living.  Top Notch!

S'OK Ru.  The bolts wil always be there.  You will like it.  Bouldery/cruxy.  Fine line & fine moves.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: ding dong on October 26, 2006, 02:43:56 pm
eh up rich, got your guide safe here!
(http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/cutenews/data/upimages/short!_copy.jpg)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Houdini on October 26, 2006, 02:55:36 pm
Pantontino!  Quick!  You're being robbed by a tramp! 
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: ding dong on October 26, 2006, 03:31:27 pm
watch it 'oudini! i'll have my sextant on ya!

 (http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/cutenews/data/upimages/Shorter!.jpg)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: richieb on October 26, 2006, 03:43:08 pm
haha....classic!
just nip up to Scotland and hand it over then mate? I bet you could carry that up on your back quicker than most people could drive.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Doylo on October 26, 2006, 08:26:43 pm
hey ding dong it says on UKclimbing you've done font 8b, which one you understated beast?
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: ding dong on October 27, 2006, 10:40:53 am
not yet mate, but we've time.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Doylo on October 27, 2006, 11:27:24 am
Directors into Upper Cut anyone? ;)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 27, 2006, 11:31:44 am
Directors into Upper Cut anyone? ;)

Whats condition is the cave in at the moment?
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: unclesomebody on October 27, 2006, 11:32:00 am
The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion. A news story should report fact and should be objective. It seems to me that Mark Reeves has written an entirely subjective account of Neil Dyer and what happened. I don't understand why. The facts of the situation are more than impressive!!! Just why all the social commentary was included I don't know.

Adam; there is a thread entitled Parisella's Cave condition report which MIGHT hve the answers you are looking for, it is here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5483.msg89884/boardseen.html#new)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Doylo on October 27, 2006, 11:35:58 am
Directors into Upper Cut anyone? ;)

Whats condition is the cave in at the moment?

Check the Parisellas conditions thread and all shall be revealed.
The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion. A news story should report fact and should be objective. It seems to me that Mark Reeves has written an entirely subjective account of Neil Dyer and what happened. I don't understand why. The facts of the situation are more than impressive!!! Just why all the social commentary was included I don't know.

Adam; there is a thread entitled Parisella's Cave condition report which MIGHT hve the answers you are looking for, it is here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5483.msg89884/boardseen.html#new)

I dunno Bungle i reckon Ding Dong deserves a good bumming  ;)
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: mireeves on October 27, 2006, 12:42:34 pm
The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion. A news story should report fact and should be objective. It seems to me that Mark Reeves has written an entirely subjective account of Neil Dyer and what happened. I don't understand why. The facts of the situation are more than impressive!!! Just why all the social commentary was included I don't know.

Adam; there is a thread entitled Parisella's Cave condition report which MIGHT hve the answers you are looking for, it is here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5483.msg89884/boardseen.html#new)

On many parts I would agree with you here, the piece I wrote originally read something like 'Neil Dyers solo Untouchables in lunch hour'. I was ask to provide some back ground for the item. I personally think Neil one of the nicest people in climbing and has a great approach to climbing and deserves reconigtion for his many achievements.

I will apologise to Neil when I see him, or if you check in here 'sorry neil, I genuinely thought you had climbed Font 8b', now your just a punter.

 :guilty:
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: ding dong on October 27, 2006, 12:52:10 pm

"doylo is the perverts climber, you don't want to know what he got up to in his lunch break."
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Teaboy on October 27, 2006, 12:55:53 pm
Quote
The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion

Factual inaccuracy aside, I liked the report, a bit of background about people is always good to read.
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: Doylo on October 27, 2006, 01:03:44 pm
I will apologise to Neil when I see him, or if you check in here 'sorry neil, I genuinely thought you had climbed Font 8b', now your just a punter.
 :guilty:

Well he could if he put his mind to it, thats a cert!
Title: Re: Untouchables now a boulder problem!?
Post by: mireeves on October 27, 2006, 01:06:26 pm
watch it 'oudini! i'll have my sextant on ya!

 (http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/cutenews/data/upimages/Shorter!.jpg)
I will apologise to Neil when I see him, or if you check in here 'sorry neil, I genuinely thought you had climbed Font 8b', now your just a punter.
 :guilty:

Well he could if he put his mind to it, thats a cert!

Even though he is only this big!
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal