UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Yossarian on November 05, 2022, 09:52:37 am
-
My daughter has been pointed in the direction of considering Rooster Booster as a possible project for next year, mainly I think because one of her coaches saw someone quite young / little ticking it recently.
There’s a vid on YouTube but I’ve not been to the Tor for a couple of years and am struggling to visualise how high the bolts are.
Would it be possible to reach them all with a long clipstick? (If so it would make things logistically miles easier because she’s not going to be belaying me any time soon.)
-
I'm almost certain you can reach them all with the longest beta clipsticks
-
Also abit of trivia for rooster booster.
When Jerry did the first ascent he held off announcing it as he wanted to time it well with the magazines press release as the first 8a(topical). However Ron had apparently then been trying it/done it I'm not sure. Jerry went back on it and the pockets were a lot larger now and no longer 8a!
-
The replacement "peg bolts" are all very easy to reach with a stick.
The clipping position of the bolts may not be the easiest as if it were bolted as a new spot climb. It was done this way as an experiment to preserve the original style of the climb which in turn was a free version of a pegged aid route. If the pegs were removed it could significantly alter the grade of the route and this was the main motivation. In hindsight I probably wouldn't have re equipped this way but it looks really neat not having a line of horizontal shinny bolts in the blank rock above.
-
Is this the most topical route out there?
Peg bolts
First ascensionist delaying announcement for maximum exposure
Downgraded subsequently
FA and 2nd ascent by wads from a UK climbing peak era
As a member of the 'lost/wasted generation' this was my first route of the grade, and I may have been the youngest person to climb it at that time, obv I was ancient compared to the kids climbing it now.
Accusations of chipping (not sure if this is a particularly now topic but always an issue.)
At least I don't think there are any knee bars on it...
-
I'm almost certain you can reach them all with the longest beta clipsticks
If not, just get your daughter to wield the stick while sat on you shoulders :thumbsup:
It shares the start with Tin Of and Sardine doesn’t it? Going to be some added congestion if it goes from rarely being done to an established step on the wunderkind ladder.
-
I'm almost certain you can reach them all with the longest beta clipsticks
I have a nearly 4m window cleaning pole / Yates superclip, so will try that out before resorting to combined tactics.
-
Is this the most topical route out there?
Peg bolts
First ascensionist delaying announcement for maximum exposure
Downgraded subsequently
FA and 2nd ascent by wads from a UK climbing peak era
As a member of the 'lost/wasted generation' this was my first route of the grade, and I may have been the youngest person to climb it at that time, obv I was ancient compared to the kids climbing it now.
Accusations of chipping (not sure if this is a particularly now topic but always an issue.)
At least I don't think there are any knee bars on it...
+ Coached youths that are being pushed towards Goal Climbing to the extent they're having to go to The Tor :ohmy:.
-
Is this the most topical route out there?
Peg bolts
First ascensionist delaying announcement for maximum exposure
Downgraded subsequently
FA and 2nd ascent by wads from a UK climbing peak era
As a member of the 'lost/wasted generation' this was my first route of the grade, and I may have been the youngest person to climb it at that time, obv I was ancient compared to the kids climbing it now.
Accusations of chipping (not sure if this is a particularly now topic but always an issue.)
At least I don't think there are any knee bars on it...
+ Coached youths that are being pushed towards Goal Climbing to the extent they're having to go to The Tor :ohmy:.
In her defence, she went bouldering there once because we got rained off at Burbage, she loved it (and got syked watching Ted on Make it Funky), keeps badgering me about going back, and then her coach (who is aware she would rather climb outside vs do comps) watched a kid climb RB whilst waiting for Sardine and thought it might be up her street...
-
Well tell her that she’s not allowed to enjoy it there and must only climb at Fiend-endorsed backwaters ;).
-
At the risk of a serious response, I think it would suit a youth. It's pretty bunched with a number of pockets which probably feel better the smaller your fingers.
-
That’s exactly the reason she’s interested. The last two harder things she tried down on the south coast had long moves that shut her down, despite loads of goes trying to work out alternative sequences with virtually non-existent holds (maybe she’d do better on Portland vs quarried stuff (with very blank sections) at Swanage. Anyway, that sort of thing is quite a syke dampener.
The kid I saw on RB is the same age as her and similar height so it totally makes sense.
-
Well tell her that she’s not allowed to enjoy it there and must only climb at Fiend-endorsed backwaters ;).
:icon_321: oi. I was more thinking of actual quality non-backwater crags but hey if she's the new Shark than fair play to her.
-
At the risk of another
serious boring response, it was logged on UKC a few days ago by an 11yr and is supposed to suit those with small figures, so it sounds like it could be a good choice.
-
The ascent Yoss’s kid’s coach witnessed, the log on UKC, the YouTube video he mentions and this report (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24953.msg668504.html#msg668504) are one and the same I imagine.